Editor — Anthony Traina

"},"type":"Block::Code"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Bubba Watson"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["440af2a9-9d9b-4031-9630-1d7952353f1b","8a8d8ef0-6310-4186-996c-d51115954a99"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Adam Scott's 2013 Masters win was sandwiched between Bubba Watson's two Masters victories. Watson's been a Richard Mille ambassador since 2011. A few RMs have been named after him: the RM038 and RM038-1 Tourbillons and the RM055. For his victories <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bubba-watson-wins-the-masters-wearing-a-richard-mille-rm038/" target=\"_blank\">in 2012</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/spotted-bubba-watson-wearing-a-richard-mille-rm038-bubba-watson-victory-watch-as-he-wins-the-masters-again/" target=\"_blank\">in 2014</a>, Watson wore the RM038. Unlike the Rolex testimonies though, Watson can often be seen wearing his Richard Mille while he's playing a round of golf. The RM038 is about what you'd expect in an RM: it's a tourbillon, and the case is all-white and made of 89 percent magnesium. Only 50 were made and it sold for $525,000 when it was announced at SIHH in 2011. It's the type of thing <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://genius.com/Drake-nonstop-lyrics/" target=\"_blank\">Drake raps about</a>. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Nick Faldo"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["6a571f7d-e524-4703-b134-ed03c5555e39","161da0d5-eb85-49e6-a640-4441a0edf32b"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Masters will sound a little different this year since it'll be the first time Nick Faldo won't be in the announcer's booth since 2007. Before his announcing career, Sir Nick won the Masters three times, in 1989, 1990, and 1996, half of the six major championships he won during his career. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2712a78a-d5f8-459b-9441-1bc11f0eed23"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"body":"In 2018, Cara took an <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-one-tone-two-metal/" target=\"_blank\">in-depth look</a> at single-tone two-metal Royal Oaks. And it all began with the Nick Faldo \"Championship Edition\" steel and tantalum from 1990. ","title":"The Tale Of The Single-Tone, Two-Metal AP Royal Oak","images":["ed98d3a3-df9c-4944-b5e0-38feb48aa5b2"],"alignment":"right"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"Faldo's a long-time Audemars Piguet ambassador, and when he won both The Masters and The Open Championship in 1990, AP even made a limited-edition Royal Oak \"Championship Edition\" to celebrate. It was a 33mm quartz Royal Oak produced in just 2,000 examples and was notable because it was the first time AP used stainless steel and tantalum. It was also sold with a pretty crazy box set that included a keychain, Royal Oak cufflinks and pendant, belt, pill box, belt, and a tantalum-steel bracelet. AP released another Royal Oak Nick Faldo Limited Edition in 2003 – it wasn't as good as the Championship Edition, highlighted by a slightly corny golf-ball rotor with Faldo's signature on it. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"In these photo ops, Nick Faldo doesn't seem to be wearing the Championship Edition Royal Oak made to commemorate his major victories, but the watch in the first photo is even more impressive: a gold Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. In the second photo, he's posing with his green jacket and the Claret Jug (The Open Championship trophy) with what looks like a more subdued two-tone Royal Oak.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Jack Nicklaus"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["8a0652c0-ed0e-46e2-bedc-6a43632d2352","40d0d847-f568-47c9-bd7c-1025a50f9505"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Hodinkee readers will know this one well. Back in 2017, we did a Talking Watches with 18-time major winner (and six-time Masters winner) Jack Nicklaus. As he told us, he's owned the same Rolex Day-Date ref. 1803 in yellow gold since 1967. That means the watch was with him during 12 of his 18 majors – he'd wear it to the course, place it into a small bag, and place that into his golf bag, and then slide it back onto his wrist while walking off the 18th green. A couple of years later, it <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jack-nicklaus-rolex-day-date-sells-phillips-new-york/" target=\"_blank\">sold for $1.22 million</a> at Phillips in New York, with 100 percent of the sale going to the Nicklaus Children's Health Care Foundation. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Since selling this Day-Date, it seems Jack's settled down with another one, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.theopen.com/latest/jack-nicklaus-returns-to-st-andrews/" target=\"_blank\">this time with a black dial</a>. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Arnold Palmer"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["90299cc8-36f6-4fe0-b1a5-cbafc32e6db5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Finally, the most stylish of golfers, Arnold Palmer. He was the guy who really made watch endorsements the norm for players, signing with Rolex in 1967 (in fact, Palmer, Nicklaus, and Gary Player were the first clients of IMG, the pioneering sports agency that changed the way endorsement deals were done for many athletes). Nowadays, getting a watch deal is a right of passage for a young golfer, but that started with Arnie.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cabbedac-9436-4509-811c-1d5cd37963b6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"He can be seen wearing a few different Rolex watches over the years. Check out this photo of him with Packers quarterback Bart Starr, President Richard Nixon, and baseball player Al Kaline, from 1969, gold Day-Date on his wrist. Not a bad look for the guy who paved the way for the modern watch endorsement deal. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Watches Of The Masters 2023","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":1,"slug":"article","name":"Article","description":"","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.918-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T16:49:00.996-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"19dd83da-170c-41e5-bf38-bbc8e42061a8","container_id":12167,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/5d2d0a4c-a189-494f-bcc7-a6b3feb61fcd/GettyImages-1134010774copy-2.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Masters Watches Tiger Woods Bubba Watson","created_at":"2023-04-06T11:01:01.884-04:00","updated_at":"2023-04-07T15:11:43.361-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/5d2d0a4c-a189-494f-bcc7-a6b3feb61fcd/GettyImages-1134010774copy-2.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/seven-of-our-favorite-watches-from-past-masters-winners","full_title":"Seven Of Our Favorite Watches From Past Masters Winners","tags":["rolex","audemars-piguet","richard-mille","golf"]},{"id":12164,"slug":"the-cartier-tank-americaine","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"The Cartier Tank Américaine","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2023-04-07T13:04:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2023-04-05T15:42:15.945-04:00","updated_at":"2023-04-07T14:04:12.591-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Small changes make for a thinner, slimmer Tank Américaine","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":33375,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"Cartier introduced the Tank Américaine back in 1987 as a more modern, aggressive take on its signature model that dates back to 1917. For 2023, Cartier has updated the Tank Américaine to make it a little thinner, slimmer, and curvier. As with many Cartier design updates, these small changes make for slight, noticeable improvements to a classic design. It's what makes the Tank the Tank, and why it's looked more or less the same for more than a century.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"The new Tank Américaine comes in three sizes: mini, small, and large, and two metals, pink gold and steel. If you want, you can add diamonds or a bracelet to the mini and small pink gold Américaines. There's also a mini white gold with a bracelet and a lot of diamonds that Malaika's already <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/three-bite-sized-cartier-novelties-from-watches-and-wonders-2023/" target=\"_blank\">covered</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["24841789-2944-4009-ac49-e9063a5e6e2c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I spent most of my time with the large Tank Américaine in steel and pink gold, which measure 44.4 x 24.4mm (the small measures 35 x 19mm, the mini 28 x 15.2mm). While the smaller sizes are quartz, Cartier's put an automatic movement in the large models. The most noticeable difference compared to the previous Américaine is the thickness: the new large model measures 8.6mm thick, down 1mm from the previous generation. When the Américaine was introduced in the '80s, it was a reference to the Tank Cintrée, and making the new Américaine thinner brings it closer to this historical reference (even if <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-100th-anniversary-tank-cintree-limited-edition-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">the 100th anniversary Cintrée</a> was a mere 6.4mm thick).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"While it's nice Cartier keeps an automatic movement in the large Tank Américaine (and I understand the target consumer probably values the practicality of an automatic), I'm prone to romanticizing a manual-wind Tank, and it would've been awesome to see Cartier say \"to hell with practicality, let's put a manual movement in the large and small Américaine.\" This could've made the case even thinner, too, but now I might just be asking for a Cintrée in an Américaine's clothing.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Other changes to the case and brancards (sides) make everything about the new Tank Américaine slightly slimmer, thinner, and sleeker. This all brings the Américaine just a little bit closer to the Cintrée, while still maintaining its own identity. While the previous large model was a bit big for my wrist, these changes to the case made it much more wearable. The small also worked on my wrist too, but I couldn't help but think that the large wore like an Américaine is supposed to wear – larger, a bit cuff-like, but all the while draping to my wrist.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6ceef77b-a05e-4d48-a433-60cff1d94cf3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fcf77f32-cad1-498d-878e-fbd2a51bf9a7","27df11e7-0ea4-4e4b-89ac-1b015751e5de"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The other noticeable change on the new large Tank Américaine is the vertically brushed dial. The smaller versions still have sunray finishes, but Cartier's opted for a different dial treatment for the large versions. It's something Cartier also added to the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-refreshes-the-tank-francais-with-modern-updates-live-pics/" target=\"_blank\">updated Tank Française</a> this year, and I think it works better on the large, long surface of the Américaine. It accentuates the shape of the watch and reminds me of some pretty sweet limited editions Cartier's produced in the past few years (like the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/CbgvvBIvA1P//" target=\"_blank\">collection for Singapore Watch Club</a>).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["53b20ee9-de8f-4146-aefd-7d7a81995099"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Oddly, Cartier did away with the medium Tank Américaine, a watch we took for <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-tank-americaine-steel-review/" target=\"_blank\">A Week on the Wrist</a> back when it was released in 2017. It leaves a bit of a hole in what I think might be the Goldilocks zone for a lot of people: The medium measured 41.6mm long, and now there's a gap from 35mm (small) to 44mm (large). At least, it left me feeling a bit stuck in between. The small was comfier for me, but the large fit what the Américaine is supposed to look like, even if a touch too big for my wrist. That said, the slimmed-down case makes the large Américaine much more wearable than the previous version. Still, it left me wanting something in-between. But for many, the large size will work great. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"And that's also not to say there's no historical justification for the sizing: The large Tank Américaine is about the size of a large vintage Tank Cintrée, and the small version is about the same size as the mid-sized vintage model. If the Américaine is supposed to reference the vintage Cintrée, it seems Cartier's getting literal with its sizing too, and I can't knock it too much for that.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4dc49e74-43fc-4467-abf9-b619aec2b577"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Cartier introduced the Tank Cintrée (literally \"curved\" in French) in 1921, the first curved case for the Tank. It was a very 1920s watch, and while the style fell out of favor soon after, it was eventually brought back and has remained a mainstay of Cartier's catalog ever since. Nowadays, it feels like something of a crown jewel of the Tank collection: introduced in <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-100th-anniversary-tank-cintree-limited-edition-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">anniversary</a> or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-tank-cintree-hands-on/" target=\"_blank\">limited</a> editions that are as beautiful as they are hard to get. Because of its size, it's also the Tank best suited to modern tastes.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2aab7f48-2e4d-496e-8c7f-d8f398a336ce"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"But because the Cintrée is mostly reserved for the types of collections we collectively <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/CipgDKSI_dq//" target=\"_blank\">drool over on Instagram</a>, the Tank Américaine is the curved Tank for the rest of us. It was introduced only in yellow gold in 1988, but when Cartier introduced it in steel in 2017, it became one of the best \"entry-level\" Tanks out there. The large steel Américaine will set you back €5,600 (about $6,100). It's basically the same price as a Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36, and it seems like that's a natural watch people would cross-shop this with, for the set who just want a nice, stylish watch with an immediately recognizable design that they can wear pretty much any day (the Tank Américaine has 30m of water resistance). As you might expect from Cartier, the Américaine comes on an alligator strap, but I can't help but think it'd feel at home on something more casual.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This year's updates to the Tank Américaine make everything about it a bit more Cartier. It's just a little more slim, elegant, and wearable, but to many, the changes will hardly be noticeable. And that's kind of the point.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Cartier Tank Américaine will be available from September 2023. Pricing: Mini: €3,050 (steel), €6,950 (rose gold); Small: €3,600 (steel), €10,400 (rose gold); Large: €5,600 (steel); €15,100 (rose gold). For more information, visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.cartier.com/en-us/tank.html/" target=\"_blank\">Cartier</a> or see our <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-cartier-tank-americaine#comments\" target=\"_blank\">Introducing on the Tank Américaine</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hands-On Review of the 2023 Cartier Tank Américaine","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. Includes original photography and full product analysis.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.007-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.463-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"f6dedc95-7c02-4374-a54b-01cb3e5c3ec6","container_id":12164,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/651abcc7-dbd6-4806-8087-2903dab7d7b7/1C2A0929-216by9.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Cartier Tank Americaine 2023","created_at":"2023-04-05T15:42:16.014-04:00","updated_at":"2023-04-05T17:25:40.231-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/651abcc7-dbd6-4806-8087-2903dab7d7b7/1C2A0929-216by9.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-cartier-tank-americaine","full_title":"Hands-On: The Cartier Tank Américaine","tags":["cartier","cartier-tank","hands-on","cartier-tank-americaine","watches-and-wonders-2023","new-watches-2023"]},{"id":12152,"slug":"ralph-lauren-updated-its-867-collection-now-its-the-dress-watch-it-should-be","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"Ralph Lauren Updated Its 867 Collection. Now It’s The Dress Watch It Should Be ","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2023-04-06T09:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2023-04-02T19:01:31.791-04:00","updated_at":"2023-04-11T15:01:25.180-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"A fresh take on Art Deco that doesn't take itself so seriously.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":23152,"public_token":"77a19c3ae181a76f404ab329f04900f8","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Ralph Lauren doesn't have to make watches like this. Surely, it would be easier to do the \"mall watch\" thing. But an update to RL's square 867 collection re-establishes this model as the small, precious metal dress watch it should be. While it might not be for everyone, it certainly has its place in the world of watches. And it's way better than it needs to be.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The 867 is a square watch that's been around since 2009. It now comes in four variations: a sterling silver or 18-karat rose gold case measuring 28mm or 32mm. I was able to go hands-on with the 32mm rose gold version; after trying it out, the 28mm silver version might have been my pick of the bunch – and part of that preference is the huge cost difference, but it's mostly a statement on which design I like better. With square watches, you always have to go a little smaller than you might've thought by simply looking at the dimensions on a spec sheet. Or at least I do.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5be6a3f2-7a1f-4b17-bc2d-1f81026bbefb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"About that cost though, because it isn't cheap: the new 867 collection starts at $8,250 for the 28m sterling silver ($8,350 for the 32mm silver), and goes up to $17,000 for the 32mm rose gold seen here ($15,500 for the 28mm gold). It's a lot of money for any watch, but the Ralph Lauren 867 collection is not trying to be for everyone, which is actually part of what makes it so enjoyable.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Ralph Lauren Watches are still a relatively new thing. The partnership between Ralph Lauren and Richemont started only in 2009, so it's worth an explainer: This isn't a fashion brand licensing out its brand name for whatever it's worth to rake in a few easy bucks selling cheap quartz watches at a massive markup. Ralph makes serious watches – there are<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ralph-lauren-minute-repeater-hands-on/" target=\"\"> </a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ralph-lauren-minute-repeater-hands-on/" target=\"_blank\">minute repeaters</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.ralphlauren.com/men-accessories-watches/automotive-tourbillon/0039034715.html/" target=\"_blank\">tourbillons</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/myles-kusaba-hodinkee-ralph-lauren-western-cowboy/" target=\"_blank\">hand-engraved cases</a>. RL introduced the 867 collection when the partnership launched and it's been around pretty much ever since, serving more or less as a foundation for the brand.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The 867 collection looks vaguely like some of the European watches that surely inspired it (some of which sit in the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-look-inside-the-personal-watch-collection-of-ralph-lauren/" target=\"_blank\">personal watch collection</a> of the designer himself; by all accounts Mr. Lauren himself remains involved in the design of RL watches, mostly because he just loves watches), but these are hardly homage pieces.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Compared to those European brands with the weight of a few hundred years of history weighing them down, RL's products take themselves a little less seriously. They're not so intent on making sure they hold up the mystique of a title as grandiose as la maison, but are more concerned with making Art Deco look cool and fresh.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2f0e08ed-4666-42ad-bb85-8ce99c08aab2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"An Art Deco-inspired analogy from my home of Chicago, if you'll indulge for just a moment: The 867 is less like the self-serious <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chicago_Board_of_Trade_Building/" target=\"_blank\">Chicago Board of Trade Building</a>, with all its right angles and monotonous limestone exterior and trading floors, and more like the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbide_%26_Carbon_Building/" target=\"_blank\">Carbide and Carbon Building</a>, with its polished black granite, ornate gold leaf accents, and champagne-bottle of a roof.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The 867 collection is obviously Art Deco, but not religiously so. The dial is easily the best part of the watch. It's a warm, lacquered off-white featuring alternating Arabic and large Roman numerals. The Breguet-style hands are also a nice touch, working well with the font choices on the dial. The case is stepped from the bezel to the midcase, only 5.7mm thick in all and curving slightly to make for a nice fit on the wrist. It still manages 30m of water resistance; if I've ever gotten wetter than that on a day when I chose to wear this watch, something's gone terribly wrong.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"I mentioned the size already, but that's because the 32mm square case was a bit too big on my small wrist (6.3 inches, give or take). There was no lug overhang, but the width of the watch felt a bit much for me, especially with the strap that's nearly as wide as the case (the lug width is 28mm). The alligator strap itself starts wide and then tapers dramatically to a buckle that measures 16mm. That's right, 12mm of taper. For me, this width wore a bit too much like a cuff to get comfortable; the 28mm case, with its 24mm lug width, would've fit me perfectly.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cb790a14-eb36-4dc6-8f7d-4dbb51cbc076"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["065bd3fd-bf4b-492d-95bf-097f88c6b09d","872324bf-8741-4365-a552-1fa90787c9b8"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"This is why I say I would've absolutely loved the silver in 28mm. In addition to the size, I've got a soft spot for silver watches. From the silver Black Bay 58 to an '80s Must de Tank Cartier, a silver case is just a taste of extravagance. It's looking at the dessert menu and saying \"I could split something,\" without committing to a full slice of cheesecake.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["c72e85cf-bf27-4f64-be96-cafa0d9146df"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Before this update, the 867 was only available in a 35mm steel case (The brand seems to have retired the earlier small versions). This update brings the 867 collection back to its previous, smaller sizing, which feels exactly like what this watch should be. It never made sense as a 35mm, wannabe steel watch on a bracelet, which is how RL had positioned it the past few years. We already have enough of those.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The movement inside is an ultra-thin Piaget caliber 430P. It's manual winding and beats at 3hz. Piaget is a subsidiary of Richemont, so this is a natural movement to find inside a dress watch like this.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Since Ralph Lauren is ostensibly a fashion brand, it's worth talking more about the 867 collection's design. Fashion brands, in general, haven't gotten the credit they deserve for pushing watchmaking and design forward over the past few decades. Like other watches from fashion brands (Chanel and Louis Vuitton and Gucci, for starters), the 867 collection has created its own path.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"It'd be unfair to see this watch and say \"oh, Ralph's take on the Tank, that's kind of cool,\" because it very much does not wear like a Cartier Tank on the wrist. It's more overtly Art Deco and also more fun.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0348e08a-2326-4d73-a485-7d482bdcfc14"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Around non-watch normies, it'd get more questions and compliments than a Tank. Around those who really know watches, it'd get a knowing nod of respect.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The truth is, if you're wearing a Ralph Lauren 867, you've probably already got some stuff in the watch box at home. In fact, the 867 collection might be for the collector who's already got a few Cartiers (like <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.tiktok.com/@girlsoclock/video/7207113381617077550/" target=\"_blank\">Anna Wintour</a>), and there's nothing wrong with that.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["436a7f45-cd58-44a8-a32e-06a3852188f9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"As someone who's spent most of his life in the American Midwest, to me Ralph Lauren has somehow always represented what's aspirational about everything happening to the left and to the right of me on the map. The namesake designer is the guy who brought Western-inspired clothing to the suburbs, and who made city kids <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/myles-kusaba-hodinkee-ralph-lauren-western-cowboy/" target=\"_blank\">dream of becoming cowboys</a>, while simultaneously defining East Coast prep – and who did all of this in a way that made both worlds feel approachable.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The 867 collection manages this same trick, but uses Art Deco (and a dash of old-world European luxury) as its starting point.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hands-On Review Of The New Ralph Lauren 867 Collection","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Tiffany Wade","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. 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Now It’s The Dress Watch It Should Be ","tags":["ralph-lauren","piaget","hands-on"]},{"id":12163,"slug":"the-ming-2901-worldtimer","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The Ming 29.01 Worldtimer","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2023-04-05T09:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2023-04-04T12:39:29.928-04:00","updated_at":"2023-04-05T14:47:38.975-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"The first watch of Ming's new 29 series introduces an evolution of Ming's 19.02 Worldtimer","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":30093,"public_token":"b6e97f6d8ef64caf4fa4790de046c97d","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Four years after presenting its 19.02 Worldtimer, Ming is back with the 29.01 Worldtimer. It's also the first watch in Ming's new 29 series, which Ming says evolves its previous 19 series. It's an updated take on Ming's now well-recognized aesthetic.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Ming 29.01 has no bezel, with the top crystal instead fitting right into the 40mm titanium case. Below the crystal is a sapphire upper dial and sapphire hands, which sit above a 24-hour metallic disc with a subtle blue-to-black gradient meant to represent day and night. Since this is Ming, there's also lume everywhere (HyCeram ceramic Super-LumiNova X1, thanks for asking) – on the sapphire dial, world-time disc below, and on the hands. Like other Ming watches, no doubt this'll lend the watch an unmatched three-dimensionality that has to be seen to be appreciated. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c862bd2a-f74f-424c-87ad-00cf9fbca4a9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Like other Ming creations (including <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ming-1902-worldtimer-hands-on/" target=\"_blank\">the 19.02 Worldtimer</a>), the movement comes from Scwarz-Etienne. It's still powered by a tungsten micro-rotor, but various components have been redesigned, most notably an all-new bridge design. The barrel is also fully skeletonized (as in the 19.02); plates and bridges are DLC coated, with diamond-cut anglage providing a contrast. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Ming's \"flying blade\" lugs are short on the 29.01, designed to keep it wearable. They're polished on the top and bottom, a contrast to the matte sides of the case. This brings us to the price and availability, always a point of discussion when it comes to Ming: This variant of the Ming 29.01 Worldtimer is limited to 100 pieces, available from 9 a.m. Eastern Time on April 5. It'll cost CHF 19,500, with a 50 percent deposit due at order. Deliveries will begin in March 2024.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9cd0637b-be92-4a0e-9b1c-7e94b052704c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["367eaf25-11e4-4939-959a-aba2f401b014","6c2c9182-f649-48a3-8a22-9728c9bb3e8f"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"There's a pretty decent chance this watch'll be gone by the time you read and/or comment on this article. It's the gift and the curse of the brand and passionate fanbase Ming's earned and built online over the past six years. Slowly, Ming has moved from offering design-driven value propositions with Sellita movements to investing in real watchmaking partnerships with high-end Swiss suppliers (to be clear, it still does the former as well). Here, Ming has worked with Schwarz-Etienne to design and develop a world timer caliber that's unique to Ming. It did something similar with its 37.04 Monopusher last year. ","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["04d2ca8b-def3-4307-84b1-2df4d7506118"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Since the founding by its eponymous founder, Ming Thein, six years ago, Ming the watch company continues to design, manufacture, and sell watches like pretty much no one else. The 29.01 Worldtimer is just the latest in a line of releases that illustrate this. From the Ming-designed Schwarz-Etienne movement to the bezel-less case construction and Ming's signature lume and sapphire treatment to the way that these'll likely be scooped up online as fast as any $20,000 watch (and buyers will have to wait a year for delivery), there's nothing like a Ming release. Whether or not you like any of these things, the watch world is better for Ming continuing to do things the way only Ming can, and the 29.01 Worldtimer is a superb next step for the brand. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Ming Model: 29.01 Worldtimer\n\nDiameter: 40mm Thickness: 11.9mm Lug width: 22mm Case Material: Grade 5 titainum Dial Color: Sapphire dial, with metallic 24-hour disc underneath with blue-black gradient Hands: Sapphire, with HyCeram Super-LumiNova X1 Lume: HyCeram Super-LumiNova X1 Water Resistance: 50 meters Strap/Bracelet: Jean Rosseau Paris (1x dark blue; 1x color of customer's choice)","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1b530929-5eed-4f78-a9b7-5c87053fc984"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: Schwarz-Etienne for Ming cal. ASE 222 Functions: Hours, minutes, world timer Diameter: 30mm Thickness: 5.6mm Power Reserve: 70 hours Winding: Automatic (micro-rotor) Jewels: 31 Additional Details: DLC coated bridges with contrast rhodium; diamond cut anglage","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: CHF 19,500 Availability: Available for pre-order at 9 a.m. ET. Delivery beginning March 2024. Limited Edition: Yes, 100 pieces\n\nFor more, visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.ming.watch//" target=\"_blank\">Ming</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Introducing the Ming 29.01 World Timer for 2023","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"52d29743-0a0e-4193-a020-1627f2d6a5ed","container_id":12163,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/60f1acc6-09b7-44d7-bb28-aac0c7f305d4/2901_1.jpg","width":3600,"height":2400,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"ming 29.01 world timer","created_at":"2023-04-04T12:39:30.017-04:00","updated_at":"2023-04-04T13:09:49.001-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/60f1acc6-09b7-44d7-bb28-aac0c7f305d4/2901_1.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-ming-2901-worldtimer","full_title":"Introducing: The Ming 29.01 Worldtimer","tags":["introducing","ming","new-watches-2023"]},{"id":12155,"slug":"chopard-luc-1860-in-lucent-steel","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"Chopard L.U.C 1860 In Lucent Steel","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2023-04-04T11:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2023-04-03T14:22:58.782-04:00","updated_at":"2023-04-11T15:01:56.298-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"A salmon-and-steel update to the original L.U.C 1860 from 1997 that's everything I could've hoped for.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":28742,"public_token":"e6d3f07eccf88672bb70235840ab1d7f","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"The tricky thing about reissues is balancing the old with the new. Chopard has perfectly managed this balance with the new L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel, creating one of its best time-only watches, maybe even since the original L.U.C 1860 from 1997.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Chopard launched its L.U.C collection back in 1997 with the L.U.C 1860 powered by its in-house caliber 1.96. Independent, in-house, and certified to the highest standards, the L.U.C collection was Chopard's effort to establish itself as a watchmaker amid the '90s rebirth in traditional watchmaking. The original L.U.C 1860 went on to win all kinds of \"Watch of the Year\" awards. It was just that good.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f53c2dbe-6d85-4048-b8a1-25f2ba17d97d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"At first glance, the new L.U.C 1860 is a lot like the old 1860: 36.5mm case that measures 8.2mm in thickness, guilloche gold dial, and a COSC-certified, Geneva Seal micro-rotor caliber. Chopard could've kept the new L.U.C 1860 pretty much like the old one and no one would've complained. A lot of us, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/everything-you-need-to-know-about-the-early-chopard-luc-collection/" target=\"\">myself included</a>, have been asking for it. Back when it was released in 1997, and up to today, the L.U.C 1860 is already recognized as one of the best modern, dressy watches.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"But it's how Chopard decided to change the original that makes the new L.U.C 1860 so successful. Chopard started in the right place, riffing off the white metal and salmon pairing that's the most collectible of the original 1860. Now though, the 36.5mm case is in Chopard's Lucent Steel. The bezel is still polished, but the mid-case is brushed and the lugs are a bit thicker. Thanks to its thinness and curved lugs, the 1860 hugs the wrist; the anthracite strap that Chopard presented it on is also a nice, dressed-down choice. Together, the case changes give the new L.U.C 1860 a slightly more casual look, even if it wears mostly the same as the original 1860. What the Tudor Pelagos 39 is to the Black Bay 58, the new L.U.C 1860 is to the original: a little sleeker, cooler, and more modern. In a world where it's all sport watches all the time, this is exactly how you get enthusiasts to pay attention to traditional dress watches. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The steel case is paired with a salmon dial that's actually closer to a copper hue and sets it apart from the lighter salmon color of the original. This pairs nicely with the steel case, which is also a bit darker than the original white gold or platinum. Chopard calls its steel \"lucent\" because of the way it glows, and they've managed to achieve a similar quality with the salmon-copper dial.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3fc26d91-57f8-49bd-a53f-2f312d7649f4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ca2cc5ae-9e4d-450a-afd3-d17f5c2e7735","676f5c4a-303e-42cf-89a8-b35d5233fb84"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Besides the color, the dial has some other subtle tweaks compared to the original. It's still made by Metalem, a dial maker Chopard acquired a few years ago after using them as a supplier for years (and yes, Philippe Dufour would also go on to use Metalem for his Simplicity dials). It's still a gold dial with beautiful guilloche in the middle, but now that guilloche leads to the Chopard nameplate at 12 o'clock. I generally prefer guilloche that centers on the hand stack like the original 1860 – it feels more balanced and symmetrical – but that's a minor gripe. Around the guilloche center and the outer minute track, Chopard has added rings of white gold guilloche, an improvement over the original that gives the dial additional texture. The hour markers and dauphine hands are also made of white gold.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The biggest difference though is the lack of a date at 6 o'clock. I didn't think the original date execution was that bad, though looking at this new L.U.C 1860, I get it. This new, no-date version just looks better.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"With all these changes, Chopard gave us the L.U.C 1860 many have been asking for, and they managed to execute it better than many of us could've hoped.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["05586e72-4754-4502-8295-e8cf90305c47"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The lack of a date is thanks to the caliber 96.40-L. Its two main practical improvements over the caliber 1.96 are the lack of a date and the addition of a hacking seconds. Other than that, it's still a COSC-certified, Geneva Seal, micro-rotor caliber that measures 3.3mm thick. It has two stacked mainspring barrels that give it a 65-hour power reserve, and it still looks absolutely beautiful through a sapphire caseback.\n\nThe new L.U.C 1860 is not a limited edition, but it is a limited production, boutique exclusive. Chopard says it'll produce 10 to 15 this year, ramping up production to about 100 a year after that. One of the reasons to reissue a watch is to make a beloved, hard-to-get historical model more accessible, and it's a bummer that this isn't the case with the new L.U.C. But at least this isn't artificial limitation: the gold guilloche dial and the caliber 96.40 are time-intensive to produce.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2d9c709e-1f18-4252-95c0-89a33d5e0ae8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"This brings us to the price of the new L.U.C 1860: $23,200. Since prices of the original 1860 have shot up in recent years, this is about what you might pay for an original full-set yellow gold 1860 now. It feels like a lot for a time-only watch in steel and no doubt some will push back, but a few people I've talked to who love and appreciate the 1860 as much as I do have said, \"Chopard could be charging more.\" I'd take the new steel 1860 over an original (not that it's easy to get your hands on either). I used to own an original 1860, and much as I loved it, I just didn't wear it that much: a gold watch with a large polished bezel and ornate guilloche dial didn't have a place in my life most days. The slightly dressed-down look of the new L.U.C 1860 feels more wearable, and unlike pretty much anything else on the market.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5df691e5-88e7-4b06-a38f-0a5b84bd363a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The new L.U.C 1860 is different enough from the original that it doesn't feel like a reissue, but an evolution of the original from 1997. For the first time, Chopard has added a steel watch to the L.U.C 1860, and it couldn't have done so with a more fitting reference. At just over 36mm, this is the dress watch many have been asking for. Look around the deluge of other releases, and you won't see many (any?) other brands releasing a traditional-looking watch with a size that's just as traditional. This is about as close as it gets to the platonic ideal of a modern, dressy watch. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f741e47b-9d3f-4f11-b546-3004e53c532c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Chopard is one of a few independent, family-owned watchmakers that still exist in Switzerland today. Many of the others are bigger, or at least more recognizable. 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Explore more <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/chopard-brand/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hands-On Review of the New Chopard L.U.C 1860 In Steel","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Tiffany Wade","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. 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Here's what you need to know.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":94179,"public_token":"f54e5c75b1f2a549a288f2e651fa3855","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"A lot has happened since Rolex last updated the Daytona in 2016. Paul Newman's vintage Daytona <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/paul-newman-rolex-daytona-auction-most-expensive-watch-ever/" target=\"_blank\">sold for $17 million</a>; the modern steel Daytona turned into one of the hottest and hardest-to-get watches on the planet; the Rainbow Daytona <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-rainbow-daytona-everose-gold-hands-on/" target=\"_blank\">in Everose gold</a> became a thing.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Now, on the 60th anniversary of the Daytona, Rolex is overhauling its entire chronograph lineup.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"There's a new movement, the Rolex caliber 4131. And there are now a whopping 32 versions of the Daytona on <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rolex.com/search?q=daytona\%22 target=\"\">Rolex's website</a>. Some are new; others look more familiar. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["61382b14-59a6-4668-a307-d8aaa11c1fe9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"As with other recent Rolex line revamps – 2020's Submariner <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-submariner-ref-124060-41mm-new-release/" target=\"\">update comes to mind</a> – this is Rolex tweaking and refining its chronograph to make it just a little bit better, both aesthetically and technically.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"So yeah, we could leave it at a shoulder shrug and a \"great, a few updates to the Daytona, it's still made of unobtainium though, right?\" But every infinitesimal adjustment of the Daytona is going to catch our eye, especially when a few of them are explicitly inspired by vintage Rolex. So let's look at some of the biggest changes.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bf085737-258b-41fa-9823-e4e46d74bbf4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["482c0a09-103f-406c-91cc-987bb4508a53","c2099e47-e11e-44d4-99e8-7aa54cda62dc"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"While the outgoing caliber 4130 had been quietly updated over the years, it was still a 23-year-old movement in need of Rolex's latest technology. Among other technical upgrades, Rolex has reduced the number of components in the new caliber 4131, added its more efficient Chronergy escapement, and added more ball bearings to the rotor. The Daytona still has a 72-hour power reserve.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Rolex has even added machine-applied Côtes de Genève Rolex finishing to the bridges. The even bigger story is that you can see these on the platinum Daytona through a sapphire caseback, a first for a Rolex sport watch. It's a weird, perplexing sensation to flip over the new Daytona and see the movement inside – and depending on what you expect, you might even be a bit disappointed to see such industrial finishing in an $80,000 platinum watch. But then again, the fact that a platinum Daytona exists at all is kind of strange anyway.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["aefa8789-ffac-41df-9f1f-b297814689da"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"While that platinum Daytona is the top-of-the-line standout, the new stainless steel Daytona, ref. 126500LN, is what everyone will want to know about.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Like the old Daytona, it's 40mm and comes with a black or white dial and still measures 40mm. The first thing I noticed when I picked up the new Daytona was the more refined dial. The subdial rings are thinner, which has the effect of making the subdials themselves look larger, like an old \"big eye\" chronograph.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The hour markers are also smaller, which makes the dial look more like the old Zenith Daytonas. Together, these changes make the dial feel slightly cleaner and balanced. Otherwise, the colors on the dial – white and black and that red \"Daytona\" text – seem the same as the old ceramic Daytona.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"No, I might not be able to spot the differences from a few feet away. But on the wrist, it's a noticeably different watch.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["46bdd028-0316-4308-bad6-19f12ae5035f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The ceramic bezel is the other big change to the look. There's now a surrounding ring in the same metal as the case; the ceramic doesn't stretch to the edge of the bezel itself. It's a practical measure – ceramic's great and durable, unless you happen to knock a bezel edge pretty hard and shatter the whole thing.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The new bezel also brings the Daytona more in line with a vintage 6263 (Rolex even says that the black bezel \"is reminiscent of the 1965 model that was fitted with a black Plexiglas bezel insert\"), and I just think it looks better.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1bb388c0-50f9-4c02-a2e8-def76b31ce97"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Collectors sometimes complain about Rolex not recognizing its own history, but here it is in ones and zeros for all to see on Rolex.com – the Crown explicitly referencing its past in a modern watch. And it works.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Rolex also says the bezel is made in a single piece; this isn't a bezel insert. Like the changes to the dial, the updated bezel makes for a cleaner, more refined look.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"While it's still 40mm, case thickness is down to 11.9mm, about 0.5mm thinner than the old Daytona. This is perhaps the biggest difference in the everyday experience of just wearing a Daytona – which, in the end, is what matters most. It makes the Daytona much thinner than many (most?) of its mass-market chronograph comps. The case lugs are also more symmetrical than the previous 116500.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b3537b09-a096-422c-844d-067d57d54ba6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"While the stainless steel and platinum are grabbing the most attention this week, there are also a couple dozen gold and two-tone models. (Meanwhile, out are the meteorite dials and the green-dial \"John Mayer\" Daytona.) The standouts for me are the white gold versions that feature silver and black panda and reverse-panda dials, or about as close to pandas as we're gonna get from Rolex in a white metal on a bracelet. This white gold pair feels like it could be a sleeper hit in the new collection. While the steel is, of course, only offered on bracelet, many of the precious metal references are also offered on Oysterflex.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"These are the biggest updates to the Daytona. Rolex says it'll start delivery of the precious metals in September, with the steel to follow in October.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c6ce6296-fd89-49e8-be18-14ea2ac5bb90"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Once you get past what's new, the new Daytona is pretty similar to the old ceramic Daytona. It's still a chronograph that, in steel, now retails for $15,100. And it'll still be impossible to get at retail. There's the watch, and then there's the owning of the watch; discussion of the latter has totally consumed the former over the past few years, and that's not going to change now just because the subdials look a little bit bigger.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Still, on the 60th anniversary of the Daytona, Rolex has made a Daytona that's slightly better than the old Daytona, the same thing it's done for each previous generation. It's like that software update your iPhone does while you're asleep at night. As soon as we get past what's new, we find it's mostly about what's old.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"For more information visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rolex.com//" target=\"_blank\">Rolex.</a> The H shop carries a variety of pre-owned and vintage Rolex watches, explore the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/rolex-brand?_gl=1*a5znri*_ga*NzkxODcyMTc5LjE2Nzc1MzE3MDg.*_ga_HW81C0Y7GK*MTY4MDEwODcwNy41OS4xLjE2ODAxMDg3MTIuNTUuMC4w\%22 target=\"_blank\">collection here</a>. ","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Review: Rolex Platinum Daytona And Steel Daytona Ref. 126500LN","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"James Stacey","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. Includes original photography and full product analysis.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.007-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.463-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"d7a3654f-c3c2-40e6-aab1-851c00267230","container_id":12141,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/c74a42dd-ccf9-4b61-819d-94daa1bba664/hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"rolex daytona 2023 ref 126500","created_at":"2023-03-30T05:40:42.117-04:00","updated_at":"2023-03-30T18:17:52.082-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/c74a42dd-ccf9-4b61-819d-94daa1bba664/hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-rolex-daytona","full_title":"Hands-On: The New Rolex Daytona","tags":["rolex","hands-on","rolex-daytona","watches-and-wonders-2023","new-watches-2023"]},{"id":12020,"slug":"the-bulgari-octo-roma-now-with-a-chronograph-too","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The Bulgari Octo Roma, Now With A Chronograph Too","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2023-03-29T11:02:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2023-03-13T10:39:39.270-04:00","updated_at":"2023-03-29T13:10:16.575-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"The entry point into the Octo collection gets refreshed and refined (and gets a chronograph). ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":30015,"public_token":"18362d358e72175fba18ef8aad8311bd","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Bulgari introduced the Octo line in 2012, and since then it's become a pretty big deal, breaking records and winning over a lot of enthusiasts along the way. While the Octo Finissimo gets most of the attention – and rightfully so – today, Bulgari is updating the Octo Roma collection. ","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The updated collection is highlighted by a trio of time-and-date models, and, in a first for the Octo Roma collection, a pair of chronographs. While we won't focus on them in this particular intro, Bulgari also introduced a couple of Octo Roma tourbillons in a show of its watchmaking capabilities.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8b218eae-bd77-4bb2-87f7-96aabb735610"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Octo Roma shares a similar silhouette with the Octo Finissimo, but with some softer angles and lines that make it feel just a bit more elegant. The lugs (and thus the bracelet) are also less wide than the Finissimo, meaning it wears less like a gladiator's cuff. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This new collection of time-and-date and chronograph models features a Clous de Paris pattern on the dial, giving it a bit of texture compared to the previously flat dials. Bulgari plays it down the middle with dial colors: the time-and-date Octo Roma will be offered with a blue, anthracite, or white dial, while the chronograph will be offered with a black or blue dial. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Otherwise, the specs of the time-and-date model are similar to the previous generation of the Octo Roma: 41mm case diameter, a bracelet with a nice combination of polished and brushed surfaces (now with a system that allows you to easily change straps, so you can easily swap to the rubber strap that's also included), and the same Bulgari caliber BVL 191. Water resistance is up to 100 meters in both models, an improvement over the previous 50 meters (both models have a screw-down crown).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c50e0e6e-a04e-4da3-965e-a26c9543c0bf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Meanwhile, the new chronographs measure 42mm in diameter and use Bulgari's caliber BVL 399. Like the BVL 191, it's an in-house movement and features a 42-hour power reserve. As of publication, Bulgari hasn't provided any other details about the movement, but we will update this article when we have them. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"The time-and-date models of the Octo Roma will have an MSRP of €7,900 (about $8,500) and the chronograph will run €9,900 (~$10,600). It's an increase over the previous Roma – which had an MSRP of $7,200 – but some of the aesthetic tweaks and technical refinements of the updated Roma seem to justify the increase, before we even get to other things going on in the world. The Octo Roma is still Bulgari's entry point into the Octo collection; the Octo Finissimo starts at $13,300 on bracelet. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["87adb3d5-b946-4aa4-99b6-f0982f30185a","926ddeec-8db8-4219-b567-b3b736b5d108"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Obviously, the Octo collection draws inspiration from Gérald Genta, though it was actually conceived in the 2000s, when the Genta mark had already been acquired by Bulgari. The concept was first introduced in the Gérald Genta Bi-Retro, which looked something like <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-weekly-hong-kong-9/gerald-genta-octo-bi-retro-reference-obr-y-60-a/" target=\"_blank\">this</a>, and then Bulgari really figured it out by 2012 when it introduced the Octo line. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"There's a lot of talk about how architectural the case is, though the Roma mellows this out a bit, with fewer angles, narrower lugs, and a rounder case (of course, the Roma also loses the ultra-thinness of the Finissimo).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a40fd022-1b10-4e40-aa46-b7848c3d8524"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"With these new updates, the Octo Roma is asking to be taken seriously as an option for those looking for a \"nice watch\" in the sub-10 grand space. It's a sweet spot occupied by classics from the Rolex Submariner to the Omega Globemaster, and even newer entries to the sport watch genre like the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/zenith-defy-skyline-2022-time-only-el-primero/" target=\"_blank\">Zenith Defy Skyline</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bremont-builds-heat-with-the-supernova/" target=\"_blank\">Bremont Supernova</a>. Which of these – if any – one prefers is of course a matter of personal taste, but with this refresh and refinement, Bulgari has made the Oto Roma worth a second look. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Bulgari Model: Octo Roma Reference Number: References 103738, 103739, 103740 (time-and-date); 103471, 103829 (chronographs)\n\nDiameter: 41mm (time-and-date); 42mm (chronographs) Thickness: To be updated Case Material: Stainless steel Dial Color: Blue, anthracite, white (time-and-date); black and blue (chronographs) Indexes: Metallic indices filled with lume Lume: Super-LumiNova Water Resistance: 100m Strap/Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp; interchangeability system. Additional rubber bracelet with pin buckle included.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movements"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Time-and-date models:\n\nCaliber: Caliber BVL 191 Functions: Time and date Diameter: 25.6mm Thickness: 3.8mm Power Reserve: 42 hours Winding: Automatic (central rotor) Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour Jewels: 26","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Chronographs:\n\nCaliber: Caliber BVL 399 Functions: Time, date, and chronograph Power Reserve: 42 hours Winding: Automatic Additional Details: To be updated as additional details are provided ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["525943de-76e8-4520-960d-334e0c83b3d1","27cb0184-dca2-4dc2-8944-b3ad34504424"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: €7,900 (time-and-date); €9,900 (chronograph) Limited Edition: No","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"Hodinkee is an authorized retailer of Bulgari watches. Explore our entire collection <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/bvlgari/" target=\"_blank\">here</a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/bvlgari/" target=\"\">.</a> For more on Bulgari, visit its <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.bulgari.com/en-us/watches/octo/" target=\"_blank\">website</a>.\n\nBulgari is part of the LVMH group. Although LVMH Luxury Ventures is a minority investor in Hodinkee, we maintain complete editorial independence.","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Introducing The Bulgari Octo Roma and Octo Roma Chronograph 2023","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"82cec7fd-5876-4616-88a5-086aab868d6a","container_id":12020,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1d9d0cae-8ba6-4dc5-b0f0-845053a3e679/BulgariOctoHero-2.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"bulgari octo roma collection 2023","created_at":"2023-03-13T10:39:39.402-04:00","updated_at":"2023-03-24T15:35:41.974-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1d9d0cae-8ba6-4dc5-b0f0-845053a3e679/BulgariOctoHero-2.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-bulgari-octo-roma-now-with-a-chronograph-too","full_title":"Introducing: The Bulgari Octo Roma, Now With A Chronograph Too","tags":["bulgari","introducing","bulgari-octo","watches-and-wonders-2023","new-watches-2023","bulgari-octo-roma"]},{"id":12131,"slug":"the-rose-gold-grand-seiko-hana-ikada","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"The Rose Gold Grand Seiko ‘Hana-ikada’ ","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2023-03-28T11:48:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2023-03-28T10:29:49.288-04:00","updated_at":"2023-04-06T14:05:52.378-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"An elegant take on the fan-favorite 'Shunbun,' this new limited edition pairs a pink gold case with the familiar pale pink dial.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":55473,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"If you're Grand Seiko, how do you make your best-seller, the SBGA413 \"Shunbun,\" even better? Put it in rose gold, of course.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"That's exactly what Grand Seiko has done with the new SBGY026 \"Hana-ikada,\" a new limited edition of 100 pieces that features a familiar, pale pink dial, but now in a rose gold case. If you know Grand Seiko, you're probably asking yourself: \"from which pale pink corner of Japan's beautiful natural world did Grand Seiko take inspiration for this delightful new limited edition?\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d16ecff7-891a-4b9c-beb8-c48ca645b96d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Well, after the spring equinox (i.e., the \"Shunbun\"), comes real spring – \"warm winds flutter Japan's cherry trees, setting the pale pink petals through the air,\" Grand Seiko says. If this is Japan's version of \"April showers bring May flowers,\" then, well, the Japanese have a way of framing things much more romantically than Americans ever could.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"And this romantic state of mind is reflected in every detail of the new Hana-ikada. Matched with a rose gold case, the effect of the subtle pink dial is enhanced. While in some light and at some angles the pink tone of the Shunbun is hardly noticeable, it's suddenly hard to miss on the Hana-ikada.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fb91a207-481f-43f8-9369-e4715e26ab2d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Vintage collectors, especially vintage Patek collectors, go absolutely nuts for \"pink-on-pink\" anything, and that's because it almost always looks drop-dead gorgeous. It's hard to replicate the charm of a vintage pink-on-pink watch in the modern world, but Grand Seiko's managed to do something gorgeous that stands on its own with the SBGY026.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Though the dial of the SBGY026 is flat, the way the light hits the textured dial makes it seem more curved than the titanium Shunbun – there's also no rehaut, no date, no power reserve. In other words, no distractions. The dial's finishing is on full display.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["deef79b9-954f-40aa-8dbc-1a52c9543c75"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0a52dfc4-17e2-4f03-baf0-495a61494fc5","38c271b1-a069-43ed-9f2a-f09760833673"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Inside the SBGY026 is the manual-wind Spring Drive caliber 9R31, perhaps most notable for its dual-spring barrel, meaning it has two mainsprings allowing for a 72-hour power reserve. There's a sly little power reserve indicator on the back of the movement (and visible through the sapphire caseback), the absolute best place for a power reserve indicator. It's accurate to +/- 15 seconds per month, and the Spring Drive movement means the seconds hand sweeps smoothly across the soft pink dial.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["73f0128e-7c4a-4555-8a84-1f1f748fb91c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The rose gold case measures 38.5mm x 10.2mm. It's polished, wears slim on the wrist, and it's got applied and matching indices. Grand Seiko released a handful of impressive sport watches this week too – more on those coming soon – but to me, a watch like the SBGY026 is Grand Seiko in its purest form. A slim, dressy watch, beautiful textured dial, Spring Drive caliber, and not much more. It comes on a brown croc strap with a three-fold clasp that is (of course) gold.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The new SBGY026 has a retail price of $27,500. Sure, it's a bit sad that there'll only be 100 of these made, and we won't see a ton of them in the wild. But if there's one thing we know about Grand Seiko, there'll be other limited editions to follow.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"For more information visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.grand-seiko.com//" target=\"_blank\">Grand Seiko</a>. ","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hands-On Review of the Grand Seiko SBGY026 'Hana-ikida'","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Tiffany Wade","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. 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Well, here's that signature complication in another form: the Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time ref. 5224R-001. It's a travel time, but distinguished by its 24-hour display. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["272ae8dd-4f6f-4e2f-8538-65ad1607d867"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The new Calatrava 5224R keeps home and local time with two central hands that track a 24-hour dial. Patek has produced 24-hour dials like this in past – notably <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://collectability.com/product/patek-philippe-chronometro-gondolo-rose-gold-24-hour-pocket-watch//" target=\"_blank\">for Gondolo pocket watches</a>, one of which now sits in the Patek Philippe Museum – so it's a nice historical nod to revive the 24-hour indication in a modern reference. You'll also notice that noon is placed at 12 o'clock, not 6 o'clock as would usually be the case. Patek says this is to ensure visibility during the daytime hours. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The rose gold case measures 42mm, and the curved, double-stepped lugs look to give the watch a thin profile, especially on the wrist (the photo below is the 5224R on James' wrist). Since the dial is large, its contrasting finishes – circular striated center, circular, satin-finished hour track, and a snailed small seconds – give the design balance. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["19e16217-e85e-451b-a4ba-6028b386c8a1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Making the 24-hour display possible is the new caliber 21-260 PS FUS, a micro-rotor movement with 48 hours of power reserve. Instead of using pushers to adjust the dual-time zone display, as is common in other Patek travel times, the new ref. 5224R features a new, patented three-position crown. The middle position allows setting of the local time in either direction in one-hour steps, while the outermost position allows simultaneous setting of home time and local time. All is visible through a sapphire caseback. It comes on a blue nubuck strap, which dresses down the Calatrava just a touch. It'll cost CHF 48,500; for reference, the Aquanaut Travel Time costs <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.patek.com/en/collection/aquanaut/5164A-001/" target=\"_blank\">CHF 53,000 in rose gold</a>. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["949505ae-233f-4e11-ac33-10e26de4d65d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["06bcc8ad-f658-409b-8f1e-df9317d8f393","44389f81-b1f8-45b6-991c-f7946025d89a"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Nowadays, few brands are doing a travel watch like Patek Philippe, and this iteration balances dressy and sporty. The large 24-hour display feels like a throwback not only to that Patek pocket watch, but also to the oversized aviator's watches from the mid-20th century that collectors love (like <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6067348/" target=\"_blank\">this one from Universal Geneve</a>). But instead of a chronograph, we've got a travel time, arguably more useful for the modern jet-setter. ","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The entire package looks considered and put together. The blue dial is vibrant, with a variety of finishes so as not to overwhelm your eye. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Of note, the new movement does away with any pushers – previous travel times from Patek (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.patek.com/en/collection/complications/5524G-001/" target=\"\">like the 5524</a>) had large pushers, so this makes for a case that looks completely balanced. A real Calatrava, in other words.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Patek says the rose gold numerals and indices are hand-applied, and the numerals and syringe hands are filled with lume. Again, it's a balance between traditional and sporty, much the same way the new 5224R balances traditional inspiration with a modern complication.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Patek Philippe Model: Calatrava Travel Time Reference Number: 5224R-001\n\nDiameter: 42mm Thickness: 10.2mm Case Material: Rose gold Dial Color: Blue Indexes: Hand-applied rose gold Arabic numerals; cabachon five-minute markers Lume: Yes Water Resistance: 30 Strap/Bracelet: Navy-blue calfskin with nubuck finish, contrasting cream hand stitching; rose gold prong buckle","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["60b062c7-030d-417a-aba5-c70967ca809a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: Caliber 31‑260 PS FUS 24H Functions: Dual time zone with 24-hour display Diameter: 31.7mm Thickness: 3.7mm Power Reserve: 48 hours Winding: Automatic (platinum mini-rotor) Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour Jewels: 44 Additional Details: 240 total parts; Patek Philippe Seal","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: $57,366\n\nFor more, visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.patek.com/en/collection/complications/5224R-001/" target=\"_blank\">Patek Philippe</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"The New Patek Philippe Calatrava Travel Time 52224R","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"James Stacey","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"30cae166-2652-41e3-a704-d334afd01bab","container_id":12124,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/0c9e4e85-3a12-474f-833f-417288327ad9/L1030312-hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Patek Philippe Calatrava Travel Time 5224","created_at":"2023-03-27T13:12:58.958-04:00","updated_at":"2023-03-27T15:49:11.760-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/0c9e4e85-3a12-474f-833f-417288327ad9/L1030312-hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-calatrava-24-hour-travel-time-5224r-live-pics","full_title":"Introducing: The Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Travel Time 5224R (Live Pics)","tags":["patek-philippe","introducing","watches-and-wonders-2023","new-watches-2023"]},{"id":12125,"slug":"the-rolex-perpetual-1908-might-just-be-the-dressy-rolex-weve-been-waiting-for","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"The Rolex Perpetual 1908 Might Just Be The Dressy Rolex We’ve Been Waiting For","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2023-03-27T14:05:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2023-03-27T13:59:28.759-04:00","updated_at":"2023-03-27T16:56:20.451-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Goodbye Cellini. Say hello to the new Perpetual collection and the Perpetual 1908.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":83539,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"Here's something I didn't expect. In my first meeting at my first Watches & Wonders, it was an entirely new dressy Rolex that I couldn't take off my wrist. Sure, we passed around a bunch of updated sport models – stay tuned for coverage of those too – but the new Rolex Perpetual 1908 might be Rolex's best dressy watch in years.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"First, what is the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-cellini-is-dead-make-way-for-the-new-perpetual-collection/" target=\"_blank\">Perpetual 1908</a>? It's a quartet of new watches in 18-karat yellow or white gold cases, each paired with a black or white dial. But it's more than four watches: With the Perpetual 1908, Rolex is actually launching its new Perpetual collection. It's the dressy answer to Rolex's professional models, and it replaces the Cellini line, which had felt a bit neglected over the last few years. Now, we know why. And man, if the first Perpetual 1908 is what we can expect for the future of the collection, we might be in for a whole new side of Rolex.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5f51632a-5711-43c6-9fd5-7a0ad25022aa"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Perpetual 1908 immediately grabs your attention with its dial. Rolex calls the white dial an \"intense white.\" While no such adjective is given for the black dial, the surprise when seeing it in person is that it's actually a matte black. It's similar to what we've seen in some other Rolex models – it looks similar to the dial in this year's new titanium Yacht-Master, for example – but in a dress watch it's a subtle little surprise. Really, a dressy watch isn't supposed to grab too much attention – it's supposed to be slim and sleek and elegant (and without complication and in precious metal if you're a purist), and the matte black doesn't scream at you. In a certain light and at certain angles, it even looks a little grey.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Meanwhile, the white dial has a slight graining effect that seems to give it just a bit of texture. After wearing both for about an equal amount of time – that's about 30 minutes each, for the entirety of our one-hour meeting with Rolex – the black paired with the yellow gold was my favorite of the bunch. This surprised even me, as <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/heres-why-i-traded-my-cartier-santos-dumont-for-a-tank/" target=\"_blank\">someone who thinks</a> precious white metals tend to be the most elegant of metals (Rolex, for its part, calls platinum <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rolex.com/watches/cosmograph-daytona/m126506-0001/" target=\"_blank\">the noblest of metals</a>). Sure, the white gold and black makes me want to go out and spend a stupid amount of money on a Tom Ford tux just to wear something half as dignified as the 1908. But there's something about a yellow-gold Rolex with a black dial that feels like giving order to a chaotic world. It kind of reminds me of those vintage Day-Dates with <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080122/152/" target=\"_blank\">jet-black Onyx dials</a> that I love. It's whispering and shouting at the same time, making a statement that only a yellow-gold Rolex can.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["db1ebbf5-b510-40c0-944b-e031e54b224d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["456b9e36-e2ce-4e4b-aca6-6b769b622b2f","7d4def46-b8aa-4d57-a42a-09ab0bb3f74d"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Rolex says it based the dial of the 1908 on a vintage model it found from 1931 – something like the model it features <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rolex.com/about-rolex-watches/history/1926-1945/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>, perhaps? – and it shows, but in a wonderfully updated way. The 12-3-9 is in a sans-serif font that's as Art Deco as it is modern, perfectly complemented by a more ornate font in the subdial at 6 o'clock. The observatory-style hour hand is another era-appropriate touch. The By the way, 1908 is a reference to the year one Hans Wilsdorf trademarked the term Rolex, because what's a brand, especially a brand like Rolex, without a trademark? (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/photo-report-biver-watch-party/" target=\"_blank\">Just ask Jean-Claude Biver</a>.)","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"It's time to talk about the case of the 1908, all 39mm of it. It looks kind of like the old Cellini case, but it's been updated (most notably there's the sapphire caseback now, more on that in a moment). The bezel is half domed and half fluted. Don't have the confidence to go full-fluted on the daily like me? You're in luck. It's dressed up but not audacious. The case is polished, and while we weren't able to get any other measurements from Rolex, the watch is thin (maybe 9mm?) and has a slim profile on wrist. The lug-to-lug is equally manageable: noticeably smaller than the Black Bay 58 I wore into the room (also 39mm, with 47mm lug-to-lug).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e57d44fe-8e31-4cf6-ad7d-21347e48a07d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I'll drone on about the need for smaller dress watches as much as the next guy, but I've gotta admit: I didn't mind the case size one bit. Would I have liked it even more with 1, 2, or 3mm taken off? Maybe, but I get that there are many reasons, many of them commercial, why Rolex won't do that. And I say this as a guy who's got a smallish 6.3-inch wrist, maybe 6.5 in the stuffy and sparsely air-conditioned halls of Geneva's Palexpo. The Perpetual 1908 has 50m of water resistance, more than enough for a watch that comes on an alligator strap, I'd hope.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Even the movement of the 1908 requires a closer look. And now, in a first for Rolex, the new automatic caliber 7140 can be seen through a sapphire caseback. It's something Rolex is also doing with the new platinum Daytona, making it known it's happy to show off what it calls Côtes de Genève Rolex finishing on the movement. The Rolex caliber 7140 uses Rolex's Syloxi silicon hairspring, something that, until now, had been reserved for smaller models like the 31mm Datejust. As Danny <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/new-rolex-oyster-perpetual-34-release-you-probably-missed-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">explored before</a>, it's notable to see Rolex continue down the path of using two different kinds of hairsprings across its models, and today we're seeing the Syloxi in a larger watch for the first time. Oh, and it's the first time Rolex's pairing a Syloxi hairspring with its Chronergy escapement. Other than that, the caliber 7140 has everything you might expect from Rolex: Superlative chronometer, 66 hours of power reserve, and a gold automatic rotor.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["022dcc3f-ee78-46de-b155-42152b7c302b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Another detail you pick up on as soon as you try on the Perpetual 1908 that, honestly, you might not even think about otherwise: The alligator strap comes on Rolex's \"Dualclasp\" (like a butterfly clasp) that seems to drape the wrist a little more nicely than a standard single-blade clasp. But by now, I might just be drinking that precision-engineered Rolex Kool-Aid a little too much! On the inside, the strap is green, another simple \"Rolex being Rolex\" touch. But I'd still throw this thing on a more casual strap and wear the shit out of it, pretty much anywhere and with anything.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Perpetual 1908 will cost $22,000 in yellow gold and $23,300 in white gold, with availability beginning in October. At first brush, that feels about right for a dressy Rolex. Much lower than, say <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-colorful-new-patek-philippe-calatrava-6007g/" target=\"_blank\">Patek's new Calatrava 6007G</a> ($37,850) or 6119 ($31,940), but more than a comparably fancy watch from a brand like Jaeger-LeCoultre, because, well, Rolex. The price puts the 1908 in the same neighborhood as an A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia – some buyers will prefer hand-engraved balance bridges and others will look first to the name on the dial. Neither is right or wrong.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["15bd33f7-717a-43d2-947c-6bfc7e133969"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Twenty-four hours ago I wouldn't have guessed the first watch I'd be writing up from Rolex would be a new dressy watch that's ushering in an entirely new collection of dressy watches from the brand. But that's exactly what makes the new Perpetual 1908 so exciting. Besides the 1908, we (the Hodinkee \"we\") passed around a lot of sport watches from a handful of brands today at Watches & Wonders – Rolex, Tudor, IWC, even Lange (though <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-chronograph/" target=\"_blank\">in that case</a>, it's a hell of a \"sport watch\"). And a lot of them are great! But here's Rolex, the ultimate maker of sport watches – professional watches, to have them tell it – dedicating its nearly infinite resources to a completely new line of dressed-up watches, and nailing it. In the same way the Rolex Submariner of 2023 feels kind of like the consistent evolution of the original Rolex Submariner of 1953, the new Perpetual 1908 line feels like the modern evolution of what a dressy collection from Rolex should look like, even if we skipped many of the years in between. Not a re-issue at all, just the modern iteration of a watch that's always been.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d0c9f6f6-0ca3-4710-9534-9341b577705f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Rolex calls this the Perpetual 1908, but really it takes inspiration from a watch made in 1931. This era of Rolex, from the 1930s through the 1950s, is when Rolex came into its own. First came the Oyster case, then the first automatic movement. Before long, Rolex watches were joining climbers on Everest and divers in the ocean. But these watches were still subtle and elegant in a way many modern Rolex watches aren't. With the new 1908, Rolex has captured this heritage in a way I haven't seen it do in years. And that's what's got me so excited about it.\n\nFor more on the Perpetual 1908, visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rolex.com/watches/1908/" target=\"_blank\">Rolex</a>. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hands-On Review of The New Rolex Perpetual 1908 Collection","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Tiffany Wade","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. 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It's the same Black Bay GMT we know (and a lot of you love) – 41mm steel case, \"Pepsi\" bezel, manufacture caliber, just with a new, off-white, \"polar\" dial. ","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ce345629-5bcc-4e51-bfbf-d5a1d08eed03"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Tudor is calling the new dial \"opaline,\" telling us it isn't quite white, but is finished with a galvanic process that gives it a matte white-grey finish. It gives the dial a silvery hint. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The markers have contrasting surrounds that look like a dark grey, that matches the seconds hand. Tudor's familiar manufacture caliber MT5652 sits inside. Like the existing black-dial Black Bay GMT, the new opaline dial version will be offered on a stainless steel bracelet or one of Tudor's jacquard straps.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5ff1b570-a4fe-4b0a-bc52-48a5a572d77b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"No, it's not a new watch, but I'm excited to see a \"polar\" dial in a sport watch from Tudor. Remember when Ben had that Albino Rolex GMT-Master in the Hodinkee office <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/Albino-GMT-Master-6542/" target=\"_blank\">back in 2015</a>? It feels like a wink to that history. The matte dial finish looks like it's even got a bit of a vintage vibe. The modern \"Pepsi\" bezel GMT has only been with us since 2018, when Rolex and Tudor introduced their new GMT models, so the polar dial is an exciting evolution of the look. ","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Tudor says the dial's an off-white thanks to a galvanic finish that gives it a silvery tint. We're excited to get our hands on it – Tudor and Rolex are mostly known for the black dials in their sport watches, so it's exciting to see them try something different. Expect a hands-on review of this one soon. For more on the Black Bay GMT, revisit when James spent <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tudor-black-bay-gmt-review/" target=\"_blank\">a week on the wrist</a> with it back when it was released in 2018. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Tudor Model: Black Bay GMT Reference Number: Reference M79830RB\n\nDiameter: 41mm Thickness: 14.5mm Case Material: Stainless steel Dial Color: Opaline Lume: Super-Luminova Water Resistance: 200 meters Strap/Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet or Tudor jacquard strap","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f873e098-8b75-4e32-8e2d-792216d7317f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: MT5652 Functions: GMT and date Diameter: 31.8mm Thickness: 7.52mm Power Reserve: 70 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour Jewels: 26 Chronometer Certified: Yes, COSC certified","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: CHF 4,100 (on bracelet); CHF 3,800 (on strap)\n\nFor more, visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://tudorwatch.com//" target=\"_blank\">Tudor Watch</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Tudor Black Bay GMT Opaline White Dial","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"fef872d8-c57c-4d9f-af22-a80601913361","container_id":12119,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/4885c26f-69b4-45c4-a3cb-32f4fd60e293/black-bay-gmt-white-hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"tudor Black Bay GMT","created_at":"2023-03-27T04:22:56.967-04:00","updated_at":"2023-03-27T12:49:31.707-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/4885c26f-69b4-45c4-a3cb-32f4fd60e293/black-bay-gmt-white-hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tudor-adds-an-opaline-dial-to-the-black-bay-gmt","full_title":"Introducing: Tudor Adds An Opaline Dial To The Black Bay GMT","tags":["tudor","introducing","watches-and-wonders-2023","new-watches-2023"]},{"id":12007,"slug":"the-new-cartier-tank-americaine","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The New Cartier Tank Américaine","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2023-03-27T10:26:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2023-03-10T11:18:16.627-05:00","updated_at":"2023-03-27T10:45:37.211-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"A thinner, curvier, and slightly more refined Tank Américaine keeps a classic fresh. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":26222,"public_token":"d3259925b748d1d811bf2501ed990ba6","notification_sent":false,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Cartier is refreshing the Tank Américaine, one of its more modern takes on the Tank shape. No, it's not the most modern Tank design – we see you <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-cartier-tank-francaise-is-no-ladies-watch/" target=\"_blank\">Française</a> – but the Américaine was introduced in 1989 in response to a trend towards larger watches. ","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The new-for-2023 Tank Américaine lineup includes 11 total watches across three sizes: mini, small, and large (see below for case specs). Apparently this means we'll have to pour one out for the medium size, which we took for <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-tank-americaine-steel-review/" target=\"\">a Week On The Wrist</a> in 2017.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Across all sizes, the Américaine will be offered in steel and rose gold; the mini and small versions also offer a diamond-treated case (and bracelet, in the case of a mini white gold version). In classic Cartier style, all will be offered on an alligator strap, and the mini and small sizes in gold will also offer an updated bracelet that's all polished.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5d2bed15-c2a0-4ec1-8368-c259af14a6e3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Like the Tank Américaine of old, the case has a combination of polished and brushed surfaces that gives the case structure and architecture. The dial on the small and mini versions is a familiar sunray finish, while the large Américaine has a vertical, satin brushed finish that I'm excited to see in person – Cartier has used this on a few watches recently, and the effect is typically quite striking, different from Cartier's traditional dial treatments. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"In short, Cartier has refined the case of the Tank Américaine by making its curved shape and brancards (sides) just a little finer and curvier. The large version also houses a new caliber 1899 MC, which Cartier says is thinner than its previous automatic movements. It shows in the case dimensions: The new large Tank Américaine is 8.6mm in thickness, down from the previous generation's 9.5mm. The small and mini Américaine both use quartz movements. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["073e4b0e-4f2e-4890-9381-366dce51c388"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"It was only 2017 when Cartier introduced the first Tank Américaine in steel, ostensibly to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Tank. The Tank Américaine itself is much younger than the Tank proper, introduced only in 1989, with words like \"modernity\" and \"masculinity\" used as its raison d'être. That is to say: It was a bigger, bolder take on the Tank Cintree of old, intended for an era when bigger, bolder, and apparently, American, were the things to be. ","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"It drew on the Tank Cintree for inspiration, but instead of a curved caseback, the curved front of the Tank Américaine is anchored by a flat caseback. This gives the Tank Américaine a more modern wrist presence compared to the Cintree, where the curved caseback drapes around the wrist.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b13674a8-a9f1-43ab-9ee5-1fbb89903ee7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Fast-forward 20 years, and thin is in again. Cartier's popularity over the past few years has been largely thanks to its small, thin dress watches, and now it's updating the Tank Américaine to better fit this mold. To be sure, the new Américaine still carries the largest profile of the Tank collection, but everything's been slimmed down and refined just a smidge. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Perhaps because it's a more modern take on the Tank, the Américaine continues to feel like one of the more approachable, everyday options in Cartier's Tank lineup, especially in steel (30 meters of water resistance helps, too). This update is Cartier being Cartier: from a distance, you'd hardly notice the difference. But up close, the details and lines seem just a bit more refined and thoughtful; and so the Tank will continue its march forward for the next 100 years or so.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Cartier Model: Tank Américaine\n\nDimensions: 28 x 15.2mm (mini); 35.4 x 19.4mm (small); 44.4 x 24.4mm (large) Thickness: 6.5mm (mini); 6.8mm (small); 8.6mm (large) Case Material: Stainless steel and rose gold; white gold in mini only (2.6 carats of diamonds on case and bracelet); additional options with diamonds on case in mini and small Dial Color: Silver (sunray finish on mini and small, brushed on large) Indexes: Roman Lume: No Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Alligator strap; mini and small models in gold also include bracelet options","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ee94fba4-490f-4f4d-a580-b85f0f213c4e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: Small and mini use quartz movement; large uses Cartier caliber 1899 MC Functions: Time only. Additional Details: We'll update this post with additional details about the new caliber 1899 MC when they're provided.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: TBD Limited Edition: No","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"For more information about Cartier watches, visit its <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.cartier.com/en-us/watches/all-collections/?adlgid=c%7cg%7ccartier%20watch%7c262103981419%7ce&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIh8mJ0fDI9wIVlN7ICh2wqwTyEAAYASABEgLy6_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds\%22 target=\"\">website</a>.","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"The New Cartier Tank Américane 2023","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"March 27th 8.30 am CET","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. 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","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":29085,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"It's the year of rose gold for the Aquanaut. Patek has introduced a trio of new models for the Aquanaut, all in rose gold: an Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar, the Aquanaut Chronograph, and for good measure, an Aquanaut with 48 diamonds on the bezel.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"First up is the Aquanaut Chronograph 5968R to the collection. Here, the rose gold case measures 42.2mm by 11.9mm, and a composite brown strap matches the brown dial. The 5968R takes the familiar form of the Aquanaut chronograph and renders it in rose gold. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["439f2166-a662-4432-b622-e055ae3f4314"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"That means the 42mm case has 120 meters of water resistance, and the brown dial has a sunburst effect that ends in a black rim towards the dial's edge. Through the sapphire caseback, you can see Patek's self-winding flyback chronograph CH 28-520 C. It powers the central chronograph hand and the Aquanaut's signature 60-minute counter at 6 o'clock. It's a column wheel movement with a vertical disk clutch. MSRP is CHF 64,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Just a couple of millimeters smaller, Patek has added the new Aquanaut Luce reference 5261R. It's an annual calendar – a complete day, date, and month calendar that needs just one manual correction (at the end of February). ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cf5e60a1-244b-450a-a716-708f070ad66b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The rose gold case measure 39.9mm by 10.9mm in thickness, and it'll come on the well-known Aquanaut composite strap in a blue-grey that matches the dial. Of note, Patek's introducing a new movement in the 5261R, the 26-330 S QA LU. It's based on the 26-330 S C Patek introduced in 2019 (and used in the last generation of the 5711 and this year's 6007G release, among others). MSRP on the new Aquanaut Luce will be CHF 52,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Alongside the 5261R, Patek has added the 5268/200R to its Aquanaut lineup – a 38.8mm Aquanaut with 38 diamonds on the bezel. This one'll set you back CHF 45,500.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fc03c637-548c-425b-b64b-24f682900923"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"That means the 42mm case has 120 meters of water resistance, and the brown dial has a sunburst effect that ends in a black rim towards the dial's edge. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Through the sapphire caseback, you can see Patek's self-winding flyback chronograph CH 28-520 C. It powers the central chronograph hand and the Aquanaut's signature 60-minute counter at 6 o'clock. It's a column wheel movement with a vertical disk clutch. MSRP is CHF 64,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["05f8c78f-6ecb-4e0d-9a41-73456e0c0c54","a7a8ce36-0ce6-446a-a52a-2e474ccfc2bf"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Since Patek launched the Aquanaut Flyback Chronograph in steel in 2018 (as the 5968A), we could've assumed it'd make it's way into rose gold, and probably in something that looked kind of like the 5968R we see her now. It's got the brown dial we've seen in other rose gold Pateks (hello there, 5167R), and the matching brown strap is a delightful chocolate bar. It joins the steel 5968A and a pair of white gold 5968G models as Patek continues to fill out its collection of Aquanaut chronographs.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"While we might've known something like the 5968R was coming eventually, I'm not sure many people expected the Aquanaut Luce, and I think that makes it even better. It's in a 40mm Aquanaut case, which Patek refers to as its ladies' line. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["51033190-a15c-4d48-9c99-8cd8f4ac13ff","cf2fc21c-f88b-47db-af14-e0a588c5f0fb"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The last few years, Patek's added the Travel Time 5269R and the \"Rainbow\" chronograph 5968R, and now Patek's adding a sportier, non-gemset watch to its lineup of smaller Aquanauts. And I might just love it.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Patek only introduced the annual calendar in the 1990s as a practical (and cheaper) alternative to more complex calendars, so it's a natural fit for a smaller Aquanaut. Instead of the brown seen in the chronograph, the dial is a soft blue-grey that's a monotone across the entire dial. There's a composite strap to match. Patek's put the moonphase under 12 o'clock, and the month and day sit at 9 and 3 o'clock, respectively. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Patek Philippe Model: Aquanaut Reference Number: 5968R (Flyback Chronograph); 5261R (Aquanaut Luce); 5268/200R (gemset)\n\nAquanaut Flyback Chronograph\n\nDiameter: 42.2mm Thickness: 10.9mm Case Material: Rose gold Dial Color: Sunburst brown Indexes: Rose gold applied numerals Lume: Yes Water Resistance: 120m Strap/Bracelet: Brown composite","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Aquanaut Luce\n\nDiameter: 39.9mm Thickness: 10.9mm Case Material: Rose gold Dial Color: Blue-grey Indexes: Rose gold applied numerals Lume: Yes Water Resistance: 30m Strap/Bracelet: Brown composite","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Aquanaut Flyback Chronograph\n\nCaliber: CH 28-520 C Functions: Flyback chronograph Diameter: 30m Power Reserve: 55 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,8000 beats per hour Jewels: 35 Additional Details: Patek Philippe Seal","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Aquanaut Luce\n\nCaliber: CH 26-330 S QA LU Functions: Annual Calendar Diameter: 30m Thickness: 5.32m Power Reserve: 45 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,8000 beats per hour Jewels: 35 Additional Details: Patek Philippe Seal","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: CHF 64,000 (5968R); CHF 52,000 (5261R); CHF 45,500 (5268/200R)\n\nFor more, visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/admin/articles/12115/patek.com/" target=\"_blank\">Patek Philippe</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Patek Philippe New Aquanauats in Rose Gold 2023","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"18b8bbae-956f-49c7-ac8b-9a5a0a3d2cd5","container_id":12115,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/bacc208c-a630-4892-81bd-e2a07122d8cf/16x9forHSite2.png","width":1920,"height":1080,"format":"png","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Patek Aquanaut Rose Gold Flyback Chronograph and Aquanaut Luce","created_at":"2023-03-27T03:27:27.302-04:00","updated_at":"2023-03-27T03:51:57.037-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/bacc208c-a630-4892-81bd-e2a07122d8cf/16x9forHSite2.png?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/three-new-patek-philippe-aquanauts-including-a-flyback-chronograph-and-aquanaut-luce-both-in-rose-go","full_title":"Introducing: Three New Patek Philippe Aquanauts – Including A Flyback Chronograph And Aquanaut Luce, Both In Rose Gold","tags":["patek-philippe","introducing","patek-philippe-aquanaut","new-watches-2023"]},{"id":12068,"slug":"zenith-launches-a-new-pilot-collection-with-the-pilot-automatic-and-pilot-big-date-flyback-live-pics","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"Zenith Launches A New Pilot Collection With The Pilot Automatic And Pilot Big Date Flyback (Live Pics)","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2023-03-27T02:34:35.233-04:00","created_at":"2023-03-23T17:46:20.820-04:00","updated_at":"2023-03-27T02:55:22.184-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"A modern take on Zenith's long-standing pilot line, complete with El Primero calibers. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":32680,"public_token":"d8b42cc15ea3ca9d5a2ff2fafb09b197","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Zenith has introduced an updated take on its long-standing Pilot watches, announcing its new Zenith Pilot collection of four models: the Pilot Automatic and the Big Date Flyback, both in a stainless steel case or black ceramic. The Pilot Automatic measures 40mm, while the Big Date Pilot Flyback measures 42.5mm. All four have black dials with horizontal grooves, large Arabic numerals, and a new case and bezel design.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Pilot Automatic"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2afedc37-1355-4039-b3ca-1af11c2162af"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The new Pilot Automatic serves as the foundation for this new generation of Zenith Pilot watches. The case design is new, with a large, flat bezel that sits atop the rounded case. The crown is oversized and looks like a modern take on those old-school onion crowns, exactly what you'd expect for a pilot watch. In steel, the surfaces are brushed with polished chamfers; the black ceramic case is entirely microblasted for a matte finish. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The dial has large, applied Arabic numerals that are filled with Super-LumiNova, as are the hands. The font is sans-serif and modern, something brands as varied as <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/its-here-daniel-roth-has-been-revived-with-the-new-tourbillon-souscription/" target=\"_blank\">Daniel Roth</a> and IWC (and its long-running <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-iwc-mark-xx-yes-its-better-but-is-it-the-mark-series-we-want/" target=\"_blank\">Mark Series</a>) have opted for, sometimes to great consternation. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"For a modern take on a pilot watch, it's hard to argue for anything but a font like this. The numerals are big and bold, but as with most things pilot's watch, this is explained by one word: legibility. A date sits at 6 o'clock, just beneath a horizontal line which is meant to recall the artificial horizon instruments on a plane's dashboard, designed to help the pilot understand their orientation relative to the Earth's horizon.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7c732e30-00bb-486b-819b-ef25c75e8895"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Inside is Zenith's automatic El Primero 3620, a high-frequency movement beating at 5 Hz with 60 hours of power reserve. Last year, we went in-depth on this movement when Zenith introduced it in the Defy Skyline collection. I'd recommend <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/zenith-defy-skyline-2022-time-only-el-primero/" target=\"_blank\">reading that story</a> for more on caliber 3620. The pair of new Pilot Automatics have an MSRP of $7,500 (steel) and $9,600 (ceramic).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Pilot Big Date Flyback"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["50520354-e86f-4486-af02-d3ebe6f01edb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Alongside the new Pilot Automatic, Zenith has also introduced a pair of chronographs: the Pilot Big Date Flyback, again in stainless steel and ceramic. A quartet of automatic and chronograph options make for a solid pilot collection launch, so let's take a closer look at these new flybacks.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Both measure 42.5mm and are powered by the new automatic El Primero 3652. It brings a big date and flyback function to the well-known El Primero 3600 caliber, and still beats at 5 Hz with 60 hours of power reserve. Zenith says the big date function has an instantaneous jump, taking just 0.02 seconds for each disk to jump and stabilize. We don't yet have more information about this new movement, but look forward to asking Zenith questions about it during our meeting at Watches & Wonders. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["87736f69-7620-4c6e-b544-253fa430615d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["99f05306-bb30-4624-ae8a-26ab748b3dbe","85a7fb35-0d8e-4fe7-a367-98c7742e6307"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The ceramic Big Date Flyback plays it cool, keeping with a monochromatic black look with stark white and contrasting numerals and hands. While the parents kept their eye on the ceramic version, the steel Flyback snuck out and had some fun. In a callback to the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-zenith-el-primero-stratos-flyback-rainbow-a-90s-cult-classic-revisited/" target=\"_blank\">El Primero \"Rainbow\"</a> from 1997, its minutes totalizer has alternating bright colors to distinguish between five-minute intervals. The center seconds hand and the chronograph minute counter are also finished in a bright orange tone. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The stainless steel Big Date Flyback has a price of $11,500; the ceramic will retail for $13,500.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Each of the four watches have Zenith's interchangeable strap system, and come with a pair of straps: leather and black \"cordura effect\" rubber for the steel versions, and cordura effect in black and khaki for the ceramic.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["184a7c3a-6e8f-49d8-94d5-240b9284765b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Zenith might have a commercial hit on their hands with its new Pilot collection. We weren't able to get full specs in advance of seeing these at Watches & Wonders, but I did get a few minutes with the ceramic Big Date Flyback chronograph the night before in a dimly lit bar in downtown Geneva. And I have to say, I was impressed, and it made me excited to get hands-on with the rest of the collection. ","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Zenith didn't give the thickness of the new Big Date Flyback, but after wearing for a few minutes I'd bet it's about 13mm. The case is balanced on the wrist and the black ceramic combined with the cordura strap gives it a large but manageable presence on wrist – exactly what you want from a modern pilot's watch. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"In theory, a black ceramic pilot watch just works – we should know, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://limited.hodinkee.com/iwc//" target=\"\">we made one</a>. Forty millimeters and 42.5mm are basically the modern Goldilocks zone for time-only and chronograph watches, respectively. Pilot watches are supposed to be big and these are, but not excessively so. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Our archives kindly reminded me that Zenith tried a big date on a pilot watch <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-zenith-pilot-big-date-special-live-photos/" target=\"\">way back in 2013</a>; this new collection has a stronger point of view than that stitled release, which is refreshing. Sure, a pilot line \"entirely redesigned from scratch\" (Zenith's words) might not be your thing, but it's nice to see Zenith trying with a modern reinterpretation of its oldest line.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"If the new Pilot collection is good, it could be Zenith's entry into the crowded pilot watch category. Of course, IWC is the big pilot in the room, and the new Zenith Pilot collection is priced higher than its IWC competition (in steel, IWC Big Pilot 43: $8,950; Pilot's Chronograph: $7,900; Mark XX: $5,250), though the El Primero movements make the guts of the Zenith's collection more technically interesting.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The dial of each model is signed Pilot at 6 o'clock, in quotes and a font that'll look familiar from previous Zenith's pilot's watches. \"Zenith remains the first and only brand to hold the rights to mark its dials with the term,\" having first trademarked the term in 1904, the brand explains, in language that reads like its lawyers making a subtle jab at every other watch company's lawyers. Now, Zenith's got a completely modern take on the pilot watch, and one that's got me excited to see more. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f9866425-f10a-4bc7-9b9c-a513c128008d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Pilot Automatic"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Zenith Model: Pilot Automatic Reference Number: Reference: 03.4000.3620/21.I001 (steel) and 49.4000.3652/21.I001 (ceramic)\n\nDiameter: 40mm Case Material: Steel and ceramic options Dial Color: Black with horizontal grooves Indexes: Applied Arabic numerals Lume: Super-Luminova (SLN C1) on numerals and hands Water Resistance: 100m Strap/Bracelet: Black \"cordura effect\" and brown calfskin leather straps (on steel); Black and khaki cordura effect rubber straps (on ceramic)","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Pilot Big Date Flyback"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Zenith Model: Pilot Big Date Flyback Reference Number: Reference: 03.4000.3652/21.I001 (steel); 03.4000.3620/21.I001 (ceramic)\n\nDiameter: 40mm Case Material: Steel and ceramic options Dial Color: Black with horizontal grooves Indexes: Applied Arabic numerals Lume: Super-Luminova (SLN C1) on numerals and hands Water Resistance: 100m Strap/Bracelet: Black \"cordura effect\" and brown calfskin leather straps (on steel); Black and khaki cordura effect rubber straps (on ceramic)","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3e28a72a-c58c-42c3-8750-4ad0c58bf6b5","9fc4e896-838c-4332-aaf0-81a586e0c293"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Pilot Automatic"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: El Primero 3620 Functions: Time and date Diameter: 30mm Power Reserve: 60 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 36,000 beats per hour Jewels: 26","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Pilot Big Date Flyback"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: El Primero 3652 Functions: Big date, chronograph with flyback function (30-minute counter at 3 o'clock), instantaneous big date jump Power Reserve: 60 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 36,000 beats per hour","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: \n\n<ul> <li>Steel Automatic: $7,500</li> <li>Ceramic Automatic; $9,600</li> <li>Steel Big Date Flyback: $11,500</li> <li>Ceramic Big Date Flyback: $13,500</li>\n</ul>\n\nAvailability: TBD Limited Edition: No\n\nFor more, visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/admin/articles/12068/zenith-watches.com/" target=\"_blank\">Zenith Watches</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"The Hodinkee Shop is an authorized retailer of Zenith; to view our collection, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/zenith?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=disclosure-box\%22 target=\"_blank\">click here</a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/tag-heuer/" target=\"\">.</a>\n\nZenith is part of the LVMH group. Although LVMH Luxury Ventures is a minority investor in Hodinkee, we maintain complete editorial independence.","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Introducing The New Zenith Pilot Automatic And Pilot Big Date Flyback","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Tiffany Wade","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"af7791d7-af8b-40c6-92fd-6c775c6657f9","container_id":12068,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/29349e77-2ab2-4b39-98c2-1f50240a136f/zenith20230227-216by9.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"zenith pilot automatic and big date flyback watch","created_at":"2023-03-23T17:46:20.974-04:00","updated_at":"2023-03-27T01:16:09.566-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/29349e77-2ab2-4b39-98c2-1f50240a136f/zenith20230227-216by9.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/zenith-launches-a-new-pilot-collection-with-the-pilot-automatic-and-pilot-big-date-flyback-live-pics","full_title":"Introducing: Zenith Launches A New Pilot Collection With The Pilot Automatic And Pilot Big Date Flyback (Live Pics)","tags":["zenith","zenith-chronograph","zenith-el-primero","introducing","watches-and-wonders-2023","new-watches-2023"]},{"id":12002,"slug":"cartier-introduces-the-santos-dumont-skeleton-in-a-trio-of-metals","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"Cartier Introduces The Santos-Dumont Skeleton In A Trio Of Metals","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2023-03-27T02:31:01.861-04:00","created_at":"2023-03-09T17:38:56.733-05:00","updated_at":"2023-03-27T02:40:16.177-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Cartier's most daring Santos-Dumont yet features a new in-house movement (oh, and lacquer is back too). ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":24288,"public_token":"60ebdd395abeefd8d37b78c2f69e80fb","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Over the past dozen or so years, Cartier has made a habit of releasing attention-grabbing skeletonized watches. It started with the Santos 100 in 2009, and this year Cartier is introducing the Santos-Dumont Skeleton in a trio of metals. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The three skeletonized Santos-Dumont models are powered by Cartier's new caliber 9629 MC, a micro-rotor caliber comprised of 212 components that Cartier says it took two years to develop at its manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fd27351e-3903-42fa-85ef-8026f82cbe60"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The centerpiece of the new Santos-Dumont Skeleton collection is the yellow-gold version, which will be limited to 150 examples. The case and bezel use blue lacquer, kind of like <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-cartier-santos-dumont-that-stole-the-show/" target=\"_blank\">last year's knock-out lacquered Santos-Dumont limited editions</a>, and it looks just as nice. Alongside this, Cartier's introducing a rose gold and a stainless-steel Santos-Dumont. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Aside from the movement, which, to be clear, is a huge aside, the skeletonized Santos-Dumont is familiar: The case measures 31mm and 8mm in thickness (\"Large,\" in Cartier lexicon), the bezel has exposed screws, and each model uses Cartier's signature blue cabochon and blue steel hands.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["57b25c1c-6585-4126-81d6-18618c8ed9de"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Cartier's in-house caliber 9629 MC is a beautifully executed automatic caliber. Most noticeable is the micro-rotor at 8 o'clock, in the shape of the Demoiselle, a series of lightweight planes designed by the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont himself (he was buddies with Louis Cartier, who designed the original Santos-Dumont wristwatch for him). Never one to miss out on a little romance, the little model plane soars over a globe. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a177e136-678f-45f1-bf94-1a725b5a05b2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Since 2009, Cartier has been designing movements to be skeletonzied from the ground up, and it shows. Let's remember that Cartier only re-introduced the Santos-Dumont in 2019 as a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-santos-dumont-hands-on/" target=\"_blank\">nice entry-level quartz watch</a>. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Four years later, we've got a skeletonized micro-rotor Santos-Dumont – we've all come a long way. The lacquered yellow-gold version won't set the watch internet ablaze like last year's trio because of its limited nature, but the blue-and-gold combo just works together (I grew up watching Reggie Miller torment the Knicks while wearing the Indiana Pacers' yellow-and-blue kits, but I know my Golden State, Notre Dame, Los Angeles Rams, and so many other fans will be nodding along in agreement). Sure, I could've done without the little model plane zipping around the globe (the micro-rotor), but that's Cartier – weaving its historical narrative into its modern brand, sometimes even to a fault.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Every time Cartier does a skeletonized watch, it's a little different. The caliber is structured to fit Cartier's famous shaped watches just so. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-tank-asymmetrique-skeleton-prive-collection-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">The Asymetrique</a> is different from <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-prive-collection-cloche-de-cartier-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">the Cloche</a> is different from <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-cartier-prive-tank-chinoise-brings-back-a-classic-from-the-roaring-20s/" target=\"_blank\">the Chinoise</a>; and nothing's like last year's <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-cartier-masse-mysterieuse-is-close-up-magic/" target=\"_blank\">Masse Mystérieuse</a>. Sure, it's a formula. But the magic's in the execution. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"By the way, this isn't Cartier's only skeletonized effort this year. This year's complicated, skeletonized Cartier is a pocket watch that's a minute repeater, flying tourbillon, and perpetual calendar. And it measures just 35mm. Seeing a beautiful modern pocket watch like this only made me appreciate the pared-back Santos-Dumont more. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["446e2eeb-a525-41a5-8199-6e3fa957171b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Cartier Model: Santos-Dumont Reference Number:\n\nDiameter: Thickness: Case Material: Yellow gold with blue lacquer bezel (limited edition); stainless steel; rose gold Indexes: Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Dark blue alligator (yellow gold case); grey and blue alligator (steel); burgundy alligator (rose gold)","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0fdae184-b2ec-4bec-8cb8-3e89d352f5a6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: Caliber 9629 MC Functions: Skeletonized Diameter: 23.3mm Thickness: 4.4mm Power Reserve: 44 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour Additional Details: Micro-rotor caliber consists of 212 components","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: TK Limited Edition: Yes, yellow gold is limited to 150 numbered pieces; steel and rose gold are not limited","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"For more information, visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://cartier.com//" target=\"_blank\">Cartier.com</a>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Introduction To Cartier Santos-Dumont Skeleton 2023","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"Embargo: March 27th 8.30 am CET","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"6c16784d-b98e-4437-8b3b-62c92cfb285c","container_id":12002,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/61b446b2-260f-40aa-b5ae-51ec0f9c6a5a/heroforsantosskeleton-tony.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2023-03-09T17:38:56.875-05:00","updated_at":"2023-03-14T19:39:38.169-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/61b446b2-260f-40aa-b5ae-51ec0f9c6a5a/heroforsantosskeleton-tony.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-introduces-the-santos-dumont-skeleton-in-a-trio-of-metals","full_title":"Introducing: Cartier Introduces The Santos-Dumont Skeleton In A Trio Of Metals","tags":["cartier","santos-dumont","cartier-santos","watches-and-wonders-2023","new-watches-2023","cartier-santos-dumont"]}]}">