Also, here is your heads up to be sure that you're subscribed to Hodinkee Radio in your podcast app of choice as we're going to be publishing daily episodes from Geneva next week from the 27th to the 30th. <br><br>You can expect fun recaps from everything our team saw each day, along with anything else from the show that catches our interest – thanks so much for listening.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>4:58 </strong><br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/therealmassena/?hl=en\%22 target=\"_blank\">William Massena</a><br><br><strong>9:33</strong> <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-50th-anniversary-rolex-cosmograph-daytona-in-platinum-live-pics-full-details-pricing/" target=\"_blank\">The 50th Anniversary Rolex Daytona in platinum</a><br> <br><strong>22:35</strong> <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&amp;rls=en&amp;q=time+to+watches&amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;oe=UTF-8\%22 target=\"_blank\">Time to Watches</a><br><br><strong>24:55 </strong><br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-week-on-the-wrist-the-tudor-heritage-chrono-blue/" target=\"_blank\">The Tudor Heritage Chrono </a><br><br>35:32<br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-shatters-water-resistance-records-with-its-first-titanium-watch-and-weve-got-exclusive-live-pi/" target=\"_blank\">Rolex Deepsea Challenge </a><br><br><strong>36:45</strong> <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/dive-dive-dive-with-the-omega-seamaster-planet-ocean-ultra-deep-titanium-and-o-megasteel/" target=\"_blank\">Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra-Deep</a><br><br><strong>41:22</strong> <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hodinkees-first-meet-up-of-2023-brought-the-horological-heat/" target=\"_blank\">Patek Philippe Calatrava 5226G in a recent Photo Report </a><br><br><strong>41:40 </strong><br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/its-back-in-white-gold-the-new-patek-philippe-nautilus-58111g/" target=\"_blank\">Patek Philippe Nautilus 5811</a><br><br><strong>45:30 </strong><br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/theres-more-from-patek-philippe-and-its-complicated/" target=\"_blank\">Patek Philippe 5935A World Time Flyback Chronograph</a> <br><br><strong>47:15 </strong><br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.patek.com/en/collection/complications/5905-1A-001/" target=\"_blank\">Patek Philippe 5905</a> <br><br><strong>47:16</strong> <br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.patek.com/en/collection/complications/5205G-013/" target=\"_blank\">Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Moon Phase 5205</a><br><br><strong>47:17 </strong><br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/with-the-patek-philippe-5170g-chronograph-with-black-dial/" target=\"_blank\">Patek Philippe 5170 Chronograph (Hands-On)</a><br><br><strong>47:18 </strong><br><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5172g-hand-wound-chronograph-photos/" target=\"_blank\">Patek Philippe 5172 Chronograph</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hodinkee Watches & Wonders Preview","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"57207276-adec-43f6-9943-85a877b540e9","container_id":12045,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/dc5ae3fe-d527-4dbc-a138-e2b1eb2d5eeb/ww23-preview.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2023-03-20T15:32:51.449-04:00","updated_at":"2023-03-20T15:37:48.897-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/dc5ae3fe-d527-4dbc-a138-e2b1eb2d5eeb/ww23-preview.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/previewing-watches-and-wonders-2023-with-ben-and-danny","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: Previewing Watches & Wonders 2023 With Ben And Danny","tags":["podcast","hodinkee-radio","ben-clymer","watches-and-wonders-2023"]},{"id":12041,"slug":"breitlings-top-time-classic-cars-collection-goes-in-house-and-adds-a-thunderbird","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"Breitling's Top Time Classic Cars Collection Goes In-House And Adds A Thunderbird","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2023-03-21T09:00:12.557-04:00","created_at":"2023-03-20T09:01:20.526-04:00","updated_at":"2023-03-21T09:01:40.799-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>B01s under the hood and a new model inspired by a classic Ford.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":22082,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>New Watch Season continues in the run-up to Watches and Wonders 2023 as Breitling announces the latest additions to their successful Top Time line of '60s automotive-themed chronographs. For 2023, the Top Time Classic Cars Collection has been fitted with an in-house chronograph movement and Breitling has added a brand-new model inspired by the Ford Thunderbird. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e03dad7d-1dc3-46a4-95e6-e29a3340278c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Each of the above colorways represents a specific link to one of four well-known classic cars  – the Chevrolet Corvette (red), the Ford Thunderbird (white), the Shelby Cobra (blue), and the Ford Mustang (green). Though aesthetically similar to the currently-available Top Time editions for the Corvette, Cobra, and Mustang, these new models are 41mm wide (down from 42mm) and all four are fitted with a Breitling B01 automatic chronograph movement. The steel cases are 13.8mm thick, 50.36mm lug-to-lug (shoutout to Breitling for including this measurement), have display casebacks, and 100 meters of water resistance. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>All four are offered in a no-date configuration and the Mustang, Corvette, and Thunderbird models all have three subdials providing a 12-hour maximum measure and 1/4th of a second resolution. The Shelby Cobra model uses two subdials for the chronograph and has a maximum measure of 30 minutes. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3bb59b82-7b8f-408c-accb-4742009c0223"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With pricing slated for $8,000 on a leather strap or $8,440 on a steel mesh bracelet, these new Top Times seem like a logical answer to what fans were likely asking of Breitling – that being the in-house movement and the reference of additional cars. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While perhaps not as specifically well known as the genre-defining Navitimer, the Top Time was one of Breitling's best-sellers in the 1960s and the modern re-issue (be it automotive or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breitling-teams-up-with-an-iconic-motorcycle-brand-to-bring-us-the-top-time-triumph/" target=\"_blank\">connected to motorcycles</a>) forms a handsome and well-made chronograph that legitimately suits the world of vintage American sports cars. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2e2a5bcb-d3b2-4c11-884a-0de9f1ab899d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With the addition of the Thunderbird and its crowd-pleasing red/white coloring, we see Breitling actively expanding a successful line of chronographs that speaks directly to the brand's core audience. Likewise, the move to B01 movements for the whole line only underlines the success of the Top Time, despite its somewhat niche appeal. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I say niche not because the watch itself doesn't have broad appeal (it's a good-looking 41mm steel chronograph with a great movement from a major brand), but rather because the fan base of cars like the Corvette and the Mustang (or their parent brands) has, at times, taken their allegiances far beyond the mere fandom one might generalize to car enthusiasm. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3adaf4ef-94d9-4f68-8d70-dbee0d945e01"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I'll avoid wading into a larger conversation about Chevy vs. Ford, but putting an automotive logo on the dial of a watch effectively co-opts the fan base for that given model or brand. This is what I meant by niche. If we zoom out, even to the point of ignoring the specific car cult to which each of these Breitlings is connected, we find a quartet of welcomely improved chronographs that effectively capture the Top Time's classic and colorful chronograph vibes while offering a desirable upgrade in terms of the movement.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"images":["63a83ae0-4eff-4a34-89da-4adacf180a12","a6dfb60f-87ea-46e5-87a4-92d7fd3d084c","0f19bedc-f556-489f-8681-ae25561165ed","3eec6c4d-59fe-4811-9f11-16fd728e85d8","a4f4758d-abcf-404c-84a9-60c39b783960","13e2de37-6de6-4d8b-be70-d994a7f5661f","ed3d67ea-40c6-40a1-9e0f-2793ce169f2f","db96d345-d660-4bc3-a6da-740fa0474b19","50ed291f-1cc8-445f-8e96-e195b8e48cd5","dcbc9f4d-2d97-4765-a6b8-14c82e53534c","d65f51ab-ad34-4467-a5e0-449bcac64dcd","8cbb57e7-4248-4790-975f-415508c3e2e6","63ccaefc-6d25-4377-9585-46e0e8b39ac9","1c802f09-5f7d-4e9b-8eda-7e6da79550dc","a4073a9d-fa63-483c-bf63-7db454a44538","8ba83188-7e3b-4580-ae15-3d57b6bc13f1","6e877ea9-15e3-418c-b630-601ecf430a50","31f66539-a3cb-4d45-8a46-f07013483494","84f17fe7-7d90-43e0-afe7-e59ed9796d80","39093b1d-367a-4b19-aa4f-75ed75ecd58f"]},"type":"Block::Gallery"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Brand:</strong> Breitling<br><strong>Model:</strong> Top Time B01<br><strong>Reference Number: </strong>AB01766A1A1X1 (Thunderbird, white), AB01762A1L1X1 (Mustang, green), AB01762A1L1X1 (Corvette, red), AB01763A1C1X1 (Shelby, blue).</p>\n\n<p><strong>Diameter:</strong> 41mm <br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 13.8mm<br><strong>Lug to lug:</strong> 50.36mm<br><strong>Case Material:</strong> Steel<br><strong>Dial Color:</strong> Four options (see above)<br><strong>Indexes:</strong> Applied<br><strong>Lume:</strong> Markers and hands <br><strong>Water Resistance:</strong> 100 meters<br><strong>Strap/Bracelet: </strong>Stainless steel mesh or color-coordinated calfskin leather strap</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Caliber:</strong> Breitling Manufacture Caliber O1 (aka. B01)<br><strong>Functions:</strong> Hours, minutes, small seconds, 12-hour chronograph with central chrono seconds and 1/4th of a second resolution)<br><strong>Diameter:</strong> 30mm<br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 7.2mm<br><strong>Power Reserve:</strong> 70 hours<br><strong>Winding:</strong> Automatic <br><strong>Frequency:</strong> 28,800 VPH<br><strong>Chronometer Certified:</strong> COSC<br><strong>Additional Details: </strong>Column wheel and vertical clutch</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Price:</strong> $8000 (leather), $8450 (steel mesh). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>For more information on this watch visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.breitling.com/us-en/watches/top-time/top-time/A23311121C1//" target=\"_blank\">Breitling</a>. The HODINKEE shop is an authorized retailer of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/breitling?utm_source=hodinkee&amp;tum_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=disclosure-box\%22 target=\"_blank\">Breitling watches</a>.</p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"New Breitling Top Time Classic Cars Watches","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Mark Kauzlarich","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"601c869f-f4b9-4055-aa48-5089940c0c36","container_id":12041,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/eb2c65eb-388d-4021-8ac1-b2e19db2f9a7/20230316_BreitlingTopTime_064.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"breitling top time B01 ","created_at":"2023-03-20T09:01:20.804-04:00","updated_at":"2023-03-20T09:01:20.804-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/eb2c65eb-388d-4021-8ac1-b2e19db2f9a7/20230316_BreitlingTopTime_064.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breitlings-top-time-classic-cars-collection-goes-in-house-and-adds-a-thunderbird","full_title":"Introducing: Breitling's Top Time Classic Cars Collection Goes In-House And Adds A Thunderbird","tags":["automotive","breitling","introducing","thunderbird","b01","new-watches-2023","top-time","ford","mustang","corvette","shelby","cobra"]},{"id":12026,"slug":"the-new-ressence-type-8-s-goes-green","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The New Ressence Type 8 S Goes Green","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2023-03-16T13:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2023-03-14T15:41:09.088-04:00","updated_at":"2023-03-20T09:02:56.683-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>A sage green dial for the brand's easiest-wearing model. </p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":41508,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In advance of Watches and Wonders 2023, Ressence has unveiled the latest version of the brand's slim and lightweight Type 8 and this new iteration offers its own flavor via a sage green dial. The Type 8 launched around this time last year with <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-ressence-type-8c-is-the-future-of-watches-live-pics-pricing/" target=\"_blank\">the original cobalt blue model </a>and the new Type 8 S (\"s\" is for sage) expands the lineup with a new colorway. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8e585785-9f59-492e-b4bc-1c7465779ce0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Sizing though, remains the same, with the Type 8 S rocking a 42.9mm wide titanium case that is just 11mm thick and weighs in at only 42 grams. The case offers a mix of polished and satin finishing and comes fitted with a great leather strap with a titanium buckle. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5d925b7e-3ea5-4ba1-b7ed-1b705e73b0d5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Inside that spaceship-like design, is the Type 8's core movement, the ROCS-8, which uses a pair of rotating discs to indicate the hours and minutes in a manner that prevents the \"hands\" (which are actually lume-filled engravings) from overlapping. The automatic movement is set and wound by rotating the caseback and offers 36 hours of power reserve and ticks at 4 Hz. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Pricing for the Ressence Type 8 S is set at CHF 12,500. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While I remain a self-described <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-ressence-type-5/" target=\"_blank\">Type 5 kind of fella</a>, we are huge fans of Ressence (we even carry them in the shop) and the boldly futuristic Type 8 is a great home for this new sage green coloring. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4342dd60-7ee8-4360-aea2-bfd9f9dcc310"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Danny covered the original <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-ressence-type-8c-is-the-future-of-watches-live-pics-pricing/" target=\"_blank\">Cobalt Blue Type 8</a> about a year ago and came away very impressed by its weightless appeal, strong aesthetic elements, and welcome application of lume. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While the color is new, the watch still represents the entry point to the unique world of Ressence, and I can't wait to see the Type 8 in person (not to mention whatever else Ressence releases over the coming days) at Watches and Wonders 2023. Stay tuned for a whole lot more. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0c60fe04-ac64-4e1f-89a1-d976d623a93b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Brand:</strong> Ressence <br><strong>Model:</strong> Type 8 S</p>\n\n<p><strong>Diameter:</strong> 42.9mm<br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 11mm<br><strong>Weight</strong>: 42 grams<br><strong>Case Material:</strong> Titanium (grade 5)<br><strong>Dial Color:</strong> Sage Green<br><strong>Indexes:</strong> Engraved<br><strong>Lume:</strong> SuperLuminova <br><strong>Water Resistance:</strong> 1 ATM of \"splash resistance\"<br><strong>Strap/Bracelet: </strong>Grey leather strap with a matching titanium buckle</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["471ec1df-c1bc-4171-acd5-ca6363d0a0d2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Caliber:</strong> ROCS-8 (Ressence Orbital Convex System)<br><strong>Functions:</strong> Hours and minutes<br><strong>Power Reserve:</strong> 36 hours<br><strong>Winding:</strong> Automatic <br><strong>Frequency:</strong> 28,800 vph<br><strong>Jewels:</strong> 31<br><strong>Additional Details: </strong>20 gears and four ball bearings</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Price:</strong> CHF 12,500<br><strong>Availability: </strong>May 2023</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>HODINKEE is an authorized retailer of Ressence watches. 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But we're so excited about this one that we just couldn't wait. So last night we rented out a movie theater in New York and hosted a whole bunch of friends, colleagues, and you – members of the Hodinkee Community.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The popcorn was popping. The drinks were flowing. We even unveiled some movie posters (movie posters!) as we prepared to screen the first two episodes in front of a live audience – the first time we've done something like that…ever. We think of this new season as a multi-part documentary, a proper movie tracking the history and future of American watchmaking. 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At least, that's how I felt when I saw that Seiko has just uncovered a new GMT model range for their sporty Prospex collection that not only has Marine Master-derived good looks, but is also a proper dive-GMT. Do you smell birthday cake? Just me? </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c4fcb94a-f9a2-45b2-9c50-a1bf4be9bc6b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Above, you can see the three references that make up the line of the Prospex 1968 Diver's Modern Re-interpretation GMT and Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary Seiko Prospex Save the Ocean Limited Edition. The LE is the SPB385 and it's above left, then the black dialed SPB383 is in the middle and the green SPB381 is on the right. All three versions are 42mm wide, 12.9mm thick, 48.6mm lug-to-lug, and have sapphire crystals, drilled lugs, ceramic bezel inserts, and a date tucked between the four and five-hour markers. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>That date, and the rest of the functions, are all supported by a brand new movement, the Seiko 6R54. This automatic movement offers not only an impressive 72-hour power reserve, but also one of the SPB38X's core features, an independent 24-hour GMT function. Sometimes called a \"caller\" GMT, this style of tracking a second time zone functions by allowing the user to independently adjust the GMT hand via the crown to indicate against a 24-hour scale surrounding the dial. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9b324af6-5303-4874-9d42-fdd72b244be5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Pricing for the two nonlimited references (the SPB381 and 383) is $1,500, while each and every one of the 4,000 pieces Seiko is making of the SPB385 will retail for $1,700. All three come on a hardened steel bracelet and availability is slated for June/July 2023 at select retailers. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Lately, I've been voicing my appreciation for dive-GMTs to just about anyone who will listen. The combination is one of considerable appeal as it blends the sort of watch I want to use while traveling (a GMT) with the sort of watch I want on my wrist wherever I am headed (a dive watch). And Seiko is on a bit of a roll here as these new mechanical GMTs are announced only weeks after the launch of the new Solar GMT Seiko \"Sumos\" (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-pair-of-solar-powered-flyer-gmt-divers-from-seiko-prospex-sfk001-and-sfk003/" target=\"_blank\">which offer excellent value for a \"flyer\"-style GMT</a>). </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["482e21c3-7024-40ef-8518-e5e173dcfda6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Looking specifically at these new SPB38X variants, I think Seiko has a homerun on its hands. The sizing is entirely reasonable (especially with a sub 49mm lug-to-lug), the specs are solid, the looks are classic Seiko diver with an extra helping of the sort of design language that we've seen on Marine Masters and even some elements from Grand Seiko. Top it off with a trio of attractive colorways and ceramic bezel inserts, and pricing that starts at $1,500, and it would appear that you're getting an awful lot for your money here in a handsome everyday sports watch. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While I'll go ahead and agree with some of the future comments in saying that I do wish they had created the new movement with a local jumping GMT feature (commonly called a \"flyer\" GMT), I don't mind a \"caller\" GMT, especially if your main need for the function is to track a second timezone while you're at home (rather than the inverse). But the price ceiling for flyer GMTs has come way down over the past several years and it offers direct benefits for those actively changing time zones. As it is, for only a few hundred dollars more than the average retail price of an SPB diver, you get a GMT, too. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8742b0ed-e154-4927-8e71-13e6529c76f9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Birthday-related narcissism aside, I am very excited to see one of these new dive-GMTs in the metal as it feels like the sort of watch folks have been asking Seiko to make for quite some time. Expect more as soon as I can get my hands on one. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Brand:</strong> Seiko <br><strong>Model:</strong> Prospex 1968 Diver's Modern Re-interpretation GMT and Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary Seiko Prospex Save the Ocean Limited Edition<br><strong>Reference Number: </strong>SPB381 (green), SPB383 (black), SPB385 (light blue, LE)</p>\n\n<p><strong>Diameter:</strong> 42mm<br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 12.9mm<br><strong>Lug to lug: </strong>48.6mm<br><strong>Case Material:</strong> Steel with Seikos super-hard coating<br><strong>Dial Color:</strong> Green, black, or light blue<br><strong>Indexes:</strong> Applied<br><strong>Lume:</strong> Lumibrite on hands and markers<br><strong>Water Resistance:</strong> 200 meters<br><strong>Strap/Bracelet: </strong>Steel bracelet</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Caliber:</strong> Seiko 6R54<br><strong>Functions:</strong> Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT (24 independent, aka, \"caller\" style)<br><strong>Diameter:</strong> 27.4mm<br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 5.3mm<br><strong>Power Reserve:</strong> 72 hours<br><strong>Winding:</strong> Automatic<br><strong>Frequency:</strong> 21,600 VPH<br><strong>Jewels:</strong> 24 </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["35a6e0e8-ba4d-4631-a316-4f4f61a52193"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Price:</strong> SPB381 (green) and SPB383 (black) – $1,500. SPB385 (light blue) – $1,700<br><strong>Availability:</strong> Select retail locations starting June/July 2023<br><strong>Limited Edition: </strong>SPB385 is limited to 4,000 units</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>The Hodinkee Shop is an Authorized Retailer of Seiko watches. You can check out the shop collection <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/watches?refinementList%5Bnamed_tags.brand_name%5D%5B0%5D=Seiko&amp;page=1&amp;sort=latest\%22 target=\"\">here</a>. For more information about the Seiko Prospex GMT SPB381, 383, and 385, please visit Seiko's website <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.seikowatches.com/global-en/products/prospex/special/1968_gmt/index/" target=\"_blank\">here.</a> </p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"New Seiko Prospex GMT SPB381, SPB383, and SPB385","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. 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Me neither, but according to a recent <i>AP</i> story, the European Space Agency (ESA) is working with an international cast of space organizations to explore the need for the Moon to have its own time zone. The collected group believes that research is essential for establishing a standard for lunar timekeeping, rather than having missions run within the timezone of the leading country and ensuring the safety and efficiency of lunar missions. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["ff7d58cd-d712-4e5d-be92-70434f8ba4aa"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Currently, there is no official time zone on the Moon. The lunar day and night cycle lasts approximately 29.5 Earth days, which makes it difficult to establish a standardized timekeeping system. One proposal for a lunar time zone is the creation of the \"Lunar Mean Time\" (LMT), which would be based on the average length of a lunar day. This would provide a consistent timekeeping system that would be applicable to all lunar missions and would help avoid confusion and errors in communication. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The International Space Station (ISS) uses UTC time, which is the same reference that is common to most flight and time zone activities all over the world. It is possible that the same solution may be selected for future lunar missions as this allows for specific and accurate coordination here on earth without the need for a brand new measurement system (like a special watch or timing complication, a super moonphase). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With the exciting promise of future lunar missions possible for the near future, this seems a sensible step in keeping all of the players on the same timezone and, if you're wired like me, it's going to be fun to set my GMT hand to lunar time whenever there is an active mission to the Moon. </p>\n\n<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://apnews.com/article/moon-time-zone-space-2b0124415c14755e08a58e1b5ed5362a/" target=\"_blank\">Click here to read \"What Time Is It On Moon? Europe Pushing For Lunar Time Zone\" via <i>AP News</i>. </a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"What Time Is It On The Moon?","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":33,"slug":"recommended_reading","name":"Recommended Reading","description":"Suggestions from across the web.","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2016-08-16T14:42:05.565-04:00","updated_at":"2021-01-04T14:04:40.480-05:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"792e9121-8e64-4511-b551-506897527f80","container_id":11978,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/70c97339-18cd-4a6d-aa61-21c488e586bc/moon-time-hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"a watch with a moon dial on a person's wrist ","created_at":"2023-03-02T12:10:56.915-05:00","updated_at":"2023-03-03T17:55:12.717-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/70c97339-18cd-4a6d-aa61-21c488e586bc/moon-time-hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/set-your-gmt-hand-to-moon-time","full_title":"Recommended Reading: Set Your GMT Hand To Moon Time?","tags":["recommended-reading","space","moon","lunar"]},{"id":11962,"slug":"a-vintage-heuer-reference-guide-a-throwback-longines-pilot-watch-and-dont-you-dare-call-the-francais","column_slug":"weekend_edition","title":"A Vintage Heuer Reference Guide, A Throwback Longines, And Don’t You Dare Call The Française A Ladies’ Watch","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2023-02-25T11:00:23.644-05:00","created_at":"2023-02-24T09:47:00.364-05:00","updated_at":"2023-02-25T11:01:11.126-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>We dig into the latest in toolish German divers, the re-launch of an old-school brand, and how Tudor is picking up speed on two wheels.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":27837,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"feature","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Welcome to our new weekend column. Think of this as a catch-up session for latecomers who were too 'busy living their lives' to consume every tiny morsel of watch content all week, and an extra helping for the true friends who just can't get enough. \"New Watch Alert\" will feature new watch releases from the week past, \"In Case You Missed It\" a collection of our favorites that deserve a second look, \"Culture of Time\" will highlight an interesting article from outside the Hodinkee universe, and \"The Conversation\" is where we respond to your comments. Grab your Saturday-morning coffee, and let's dig in.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"right_rail"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This week was packed full of exciting news from the watch world with Sinn launching the latest generation of their T-Series titanium dive watches, Danny bringing us a look at a handsome new pilot's watch from Longines, Ben delivering an epic Reference Points on the Heuer Carrera and Malaika providing some core context for those who think they know the new Cartier Tank Française. Read on for a look at the proposed 2023 re-launch of the cult brand Daniel Roth, a fantastic look at Tudor's own in-house cycling program, and even a consideration of why someone would want a dive watch with a GMT function.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"New Watch Alert"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/sinns-new-titanium-diver-the-t50-packs-a-serious-punch#&amp;gid=1&amp;pid=2\" target=\"_blank\"><strong>Introducing: Sinn's New Titanium Diver – The T50 – Packs a Serious Punch</strong></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bc1991d0-120b-4535-9c80-b0452f3f47b4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Following the success of the smaller steel U50 diver that was launched in the spring of 2020, the stoic German brand is back with a new titanium range that adds a lightweight alternative that is anything but light on appeal.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-longines-pilot-majetek-is-homage-done-the-right-way-live-pics/" target=\"_blank\"><strong>Introducing: The Longines Pilot Majetek Is Homage Done The Right Way</strong></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["aa22f8e8-7fbc-4b54-9474-1a9553ae5f77"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Few brands have a back-catalog like Longines and that's where the brand found inspiration for its latest vintage-inspired pilot's watch, the Pilot Majetek. Upsized from the original but not lacking in charm, Danny takes a closer look at this quirky throwback to a military design. </i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"In Case You Missed It"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/reference-points-tag-heuer-carrera/" target=\"_blank\"><strong>Reference Points: The Heuer Carrera</strong></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["28f87bc4-7fff-4aa7-a973-cd9e80a51388"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Buckle up </i>buttercup<i> because our own Ben Clymer saw a space on the Friday schedule and dropped a vintage chronograph Reference Points that'll blow your hair back. It's 9,500+ words and an awesome 45-minute video all about the evolution and excellence of the Heuer Carrera. </i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>So treat yourself, cancel some plans, leave your friends on read, and dig into one of the greatest chronograph lineages of all time. </i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-cartier-tank-francaise-is-no-ladies-watch/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: The New Cartier Tank Française Is No Ladies' Watch</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3f408348-d628-4020-9921-91276f103554"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Hot on the heels of the recent relaunch of the Cartier Tank Française, our own Style Editor, Malaika Crawford, offers a close and personal look at this classic design. And from Guy Ritchie, Kate Moss, and even the Spice Girls, Malaika is here to tell you that the modern context of the Française is more than just a \"grown-up ladies' watch\".</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["162bcd33-68c4-4421-93eb-70956896b241"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Despite the continued feminine perspective of the Française – the Princess Di effect cannot be overstated – Ms. Crawford contends that the new Française is something else. Something modern, matte, and meaningfully unisex.</i></p>\n\n<p><i>For hands-on impressions, lovely photos, and plenty of context, hit the link above.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/daniel-roth-to-relaunch-in-2023-with-help-from-la-fabrique-du-temps/" target=\"_blank\"><strong>Business News: Daniel Roth To Relaunch In 2023 With Help From La Fabrique De Temps</strong></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Big news for all you Daniel Roth-heads out there as this week the brand announced that they will be operating in a standalone fashion with involvement from Louis Vuitton and La Fabrique de Temps. Daniel Roth had been owned by Bulgari since 2000 (and later, Bulgari would be sold to LVMH) and the brand's new-found independence will culminate with a limited production line that will be unveiled later this year.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c4c127bd-73b5-49b0-bb5e-fe214eb568c1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>While the brand Daniel Roth has seen more than a few generations, the modern configuration will see the brand operate within a similar headspace as it did from </i>its<i> early inception as a manufacture of very </i>high quality<i>, rare, and independent watches.</i></p>\n\n<p><i>If you want to be ready for the next act from this storied and cult brand, be sure it check out Tony Traina's full story and stay tuned for more Daniel Roth news later this year.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/did-tudor-just-create-the-most-daring-team-in-cycling/" target=\"_blank\"><strong>Dispatch: Did Tudor Just Create The Most Daring Team in Cycling?</strong></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["43fe0640-eeb5-42c9-bb06-07addd940975"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Few in the world are better suited to cover The Tudor Pro Cycling team than Zachary Piña, an avid cyclist, excellent photographer, and watch enthusiast. In this latest Dispatch, follow along with Piña and Tudor's own clicking team as they negotiate a 120-kilometer ride through Spain's Mediterranean coast.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d86c109c-2741-4be8-b17e-2ea7b1966b54"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Along the ride, Piña captures a stunning array of photos as he digs into the personalities, plan, and impetus of a professional cycling team that was founded and is funded by a watch brand. It's a young team that is bristling with potential and each member is rocking a special (and unbuyable) watch.</i></p>\n\n<p><i>So clip into your pedals and enjoy the climb, this story is one hell of a good ride.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Conversation"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-pair-of-solar-powered-flyer-gmt-divers-from-seiko-prospex-sfk001-and-sfk003/" target=\"_blank\"><strong>The Story: </strong>A Pair Of Solar-Powered Flyer GMT Divers From Seiko Prospex (SFK001 and SFK003)</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>The Comment</strong>: \"I really struggle with diver GMT watches. Something about mixing up functions. I know most dive watches never even get wet but having said that, why would a diver need to know what time it is elsewhere in the world? Surely he or she should be worrying about decompression issues or being eaten by a shark?\" – ColinGermany</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cf396140-9850-4556-9412-66784279a893"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>The Response: </strong>Interesting question, and though a diver-GMT cannot help with any possible shark-related scenarios, the combination of a dive bezel and a GMT complication makes for a seriously handy watch – both in and out of the water.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In this setup, which puts the focus on the dive watch first, you get the best of both worlds. You get a tough, reliable, and useful watch (both for when diving, or otherwise – this being the core appeal of the dive watch) while also having the ability to easily manage a second time zone.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c5700faa-923a-4b09-9448-098fbfcee953"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Sure, most people don't use their dive watch for diving, but some do, and they often have to travel if they want to dive. With a dive-GMT like the Seikos in question, you don't have to worry about bringing another watch on vacation (and all the risks that can entail), you just have a one-watch solution that works while diving, while timing a pizza, while waiting for a flight, or while trying to figure out what time it is at home, or even at your next destination.</p>\n\n<p>While the base configuration of a GMT watch is one that features a 24-hour bezel, I'd wager that the number of people who dive with their dive watches is loosely similar to the number of people that know/use their 24-hour bezel as it was intended (to capture the offset of another time zone referenced against UTC).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["65977576-f7ad-4673-9bf5-803f1c3bf15f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While the specific benefits of any given layout – be it GMT, dive-GMT, or otherwise – will be largely subjective and tied to your own needs, the usefulness of a dive-GMT is hugely appealing to those who travel, might dive every now and then (and use the watch as a backup for a dive computer), and simply love the raw usefulness of a sports watch... and the occasional shark.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Best Watch News Of The Week February 25","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":232,"slug":"weekend_edition","name":"Weekend Edition","description":"A HODINKEE feature that packages themed content for readers to enjoy over the weekend. Each Saturday, one of our editors will curate classic HODINKEE content centered around the theme for that weekend – ranging from a specific watch model (i.e. The Omega Speedmaster) to broader ideas (dive watches, historically significant pieces, etc). Every story gives a brief introduction to that weekend’s theme and links out to a variety of past stories focused on that subject.","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2022-01-06T13:50:41.062-05:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T15:02:22.805-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"cf77a56b-538a-47e6-8ee0-6e2c7904d70f","container_id":11962,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/8192a24a-fed9-420a-b20a-074c89b9cc5a/RefPoint_Carrera-0784.jpg","width":1640,"height":923,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Vintage Heuer","created_at":"2023-02-24T09:47:00.405-05:00","updated_at":"2023-02-24T23:21:47.721-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/8192a24a-fed9-420a-b20a-074c89b9cc5a/RefPoint_Carrera-0784.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-vintage-heuer-reference-guide-a-throwback-longines-pilot-watch-and-dont-you-dare-call-the-francais","full_title":"Weekend Edition: A Vintage Heuer Reference Guide, A Throwback Longines, And Don’t You Dare Call The Française A Ladies’ Watch","tags":["weekend-edition"]},{"id":11902,"slug":"a-pair-of-solar-powered-flyer-gmt-divers-from-seiko-prospex-sfk001-and-sfk003","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"A Pair Of Solar-Powered Flyer GMT Divers From Seiko Prospex (SFK001 and SFK003)","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2023-02-15T13:01:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2023-02-14T09:11:54.126-05:00","updated_at":"2023-03-02T13:30:40.517-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>A new movement takes the Sumo to new territory. </p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":53981,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Among a handful of recent Seiko Prospex releases, two new models stood out as being both unexpected and exciting – the new Prospex Solar GMT SFK001 and SFk003. Based on the common and well-loved \"Sumo\" case and dial design, these new SFK references look familiar while employing a brand new movement that is both solar-powered and features a local jumping (aka. flyer) GMT function. See what I mean by unexpected and exciting? </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fefb6e32-2155-436d-b145-10952eaa02c6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Both of these new dive-GMTs use 45mm steel cases that are 13.2mm thick and 51.8mm lug-to-lug. Likewise, both come on a steel dive bracelet, have 200 meters of water resistance, closed casebacks, sapphire crystals with inner AR treatments, and Seiko's LumiBrite treatment for the hands and markers. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The GMT function wisely takes a back seat to the dive layout, with both of the SFKs sporting a standard steel bezel and a 24-hour scale that is nicely integrated into the outer edge of the dial. Both models have orange GMT elements and simple date apertures at three o'clock on the dial. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1256f273-2fd7-43ae-8cd6-ca07f8a86e22"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The new movement is the Seiko 5k65 and its solar-quartz technology offers a maximum power reserve of nine months and accuracy of +/- 15 seconds a month. The GMT function is controlled via the crown and the movement of the date is tied to the local hour hand (as it should be), offering the ability to correct the date in either direction if needed. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The SFK001 and 003 with each retail for $775 via Seiko retailers this spring. Between the sizing and the functionality, I think it's safe to say that it's a lot of watch for the money. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I am, at times, a simple man. Show me a sporty watch with a GMT hand and you have my attention. But if you really want to nail the combo, make it a dive watch first (with a proper elapsed time bezel) and then offer local-jumping GMT with a 24-hour indication on the dial. It's the best of both worlds and that's the format that Seiko has picked for these new solar GMTs. Bravo. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["35141aa3-6f53-4a0a-b885-9f6ef0c5d857"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Those of you who remember the SUN23 Kinetic GMT (and similar models) will recall that this is certainly not the first time that Seiko has made a flyer-style dive-GMT, but the addition here would be the Solar tech and the Sumo bloodline. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And, being a Sumo, the SFK001/003 are large watches. I might even argue <i>very large</i> by today's standards. If you have the wrist and the taste for a 45mm dive watch, the Sumo variety is definitely worth a look, but I doubt I'm alone in saying that I'd love to see this movement in some of the brand's smaller cases, like the 40.5mm case from the SPB143 (he said, surprising less than no one). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6f6d4b0a-e51e-401c-a456-6f20ee5c3cbe"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Regardless of the specifics of these two new handsome and well-priced references, I am straight-up pumped that Seiko has another new GMT movement and that the 5K65 is a flyer GMT that's powered by light. The last couple of years have been great for fans of all kinds of GMTs, but I still get excited when a new movement hits the market. With Seiko, Miyota, and ETA all in the mix, just think of the GMT possibilities. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Brand:</strong> Seiko<br><strong>Model:</strong> Prospex Sea Solar GMT <br><strong>Reference Number: </strong>SFK001 (blue), and SFK003 (green). </p>\n\n<p><strong>Diameter:</strong> 45mm <br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 13.2mm<br><strong>Case Material:</strong> 51.8mm<br><strong>Dial Color:</strong> Blue or green<br><strong>Indexes:</strong> Applied<br><strong>Lume:</strong> LumiBrite<br><strong>Water Resistance:</strong> 200 meters<br><strong>Strap/Bracelet: </strong>Steel bracelet with push-button safety clasp and dive extension</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["03ea2e91-a81f-416c-8239-704647dd41de"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Caliber:</strong> Seiko 5K65 Solar (quartz)<br><strong>Functions:</strong> Hours, minutes, seconds, date, 24-hour hand, local-jumping GMT function with tied date correction.  <br><strong>Power Reserve:</strong> 9-month reserve for power from Solar charge<br><strong>Jewels:</strong> 3<br><strong>Accuracy: </strong>+/- 15 seconds per month<br><strong>Additional Details: </strong>Overcharge protection</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Price:</strong> $775 in either colorway</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>The Hodinkee Shop is an Authorized Retailer of Seiko watches. You can check out the shop collection <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/watches?refinementList%5Bnamed_tags.brand_name%5D%5B0%5D=Seiko&amp;page=1&amp;sort=latest\%22 target=\"\">here</a>. For more information about the Seiko Prospex Sea Solar GMT SFK001 and SFK003, please visit Seiko's website <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.seikowatches.com/global-en/products/prospex/" target=\"_blank\">here.</a> </p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"New Solar-Powered Flyer GMT Divers From Seiko Prospex ","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"b4702887-a44a-4fae-87b6-87be8588d737","container_id":11902,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/d2743c53-0dd3-42f7-98de-39168c17883a/Seiko-sfk001-003-gmt-hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"seiko GMT divers","created_at":"2023-02-14T09:11:54.336-05:00","updated_at":"2023-02-14T09:11:54.336-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/d2743c53-0dd3-42f7-98de-39168c17883a/Seiko-sfk001-003-gmt-hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-pair-of-solar-powered-flyer-gmt-divers-from-seiko-prospex-sfk001-and-sfk003","full_title":"Introducing: A Pair Of Solar-Powered Flyer GMT Divers From Seiko Prospex (SFK001 and SFK003)","tags":["seiko","gmt","dive-watch","introducing","prospex","flyer-gmt","new-watches-2023","sfk001","sfk003"]},{"id":11881,"slug":"the-tudor-pelagos-39-compromising-with-confidence","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Tudor Pelagos 39: Compromising With Confidence ","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2023-02-10T13:00:13.847-05:00","created_at":"2023-02-06T10:03:00.957-05:00","updated_at":"2023-04-28T10:49:12.614-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>A lightweight take on the idea of a heavy duty dive watch.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6318909307112","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":119946,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"right_rail"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Announced to no small amount of fanfare last year, the Tudor Pelagos 39 bends a generalist, everyday sports watch towards the insect-like specialization of the Pelagos lineup – one that has stood for a decade as the peak of Tudor's diving watch prowess. Downsized, down-spec'd, and decidedly more conventional – does Tudor's latest diver fail in comparison to its burly siblings? Or succeed by finding a new, wider path toward a somewhat less specific audience?</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5a23df37-9722-4339-92e6-c31c01e0a22e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I would argue, yes, it does. And to that point, I am entering the last of what I have to say about the Pelagos 39. I covered the release <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tudor-goes-full-less-is-more-with-the-pelagos-39/" target=\"\"><u>here</u></a>, went hands-on <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tudor-pelagos-39-is-this-the-dive-watch-weve-been-waiting-for/" target=\"\"><u>here</u></a>, penned a cheeky comparison <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/toolish-titanium-timing-with-tudor-and-scurfa/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>, and explained the 39's selection as Hodinkee's <i>Tool Watch of the Year </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tool-watch-of-the-year-makes-the-most-out-of-a-little-less-titanium/" target=\"\"><u>here</u></a>. If you're looking for a blended mix of objective understanding and subjective taste when it comes to the Pelagos 39, I can save you several thousand words worth of reading. It's a wonderful dive watch. Useful, well-made, nicely sized, modern, subtle, toolish, and totally wearable. It's the kind of watch that will make others in your collection irrelevant. You should get one, and so should I. </p>\n\n<p>If you want to know why – keep reading.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Abbreviated Backstory"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["777351b2-0fbf-43bd-b742-adfcebd3eef7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In an attempt to not re-state too much of what I've already covered, let's get the specs and siblings out of the way. The Pelagos 39 is a titanium dive watch that measures 39mm wide, 11.8mm thick, and 47mm lug to lug. It weighs about 107g on the bracelet (unsized), and also comes with a rubber strap. So far, the Pelagos 39 is offered in a single spec, with a black dial and a brushed grey/black ceramic with luminous markings. It has a sapphire crystal, 200 meters of water resistance, 21mm non-drilled lugs, a screw-down crown, a closed case back, and the included titanium bracelet features Tudor's T-Fit micro-adjust system. All in, you're looking at a recently-raised price of $4,600 (it was $4,400 when the above video was shot).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["fdbb85a1-cdb4-4063-9241-97a84c697f5d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Competition is covered below, but the context for the Pelagos 39 is and was largely set by its older siblings, the three current offerings of the standard Pelagos, all based on a 42mm all-titanium dive watch that measures 14.4mm thick and 50mm lug-to-lug. Offered in black, blue, or the vintage-effect LHD, the original Pelagos is a top-spec 500-meter dive watch with a helium escape valve (HeV), a fully-matte aesthetic, and a bracelet with a trick self-adjusting clasp. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Since it was originally released in 2012 and later evolved for the military-specific FXD, the Pelagos has represented both the flagship in Tudor's dive watch offering, and – by my measure – one of the absolute best dive watches on the market.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ac05adc2-a991-4907-866d-ef8fab01c719"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Then, in August of last year, Tudor announced the new Pelagos 39, which offered a still-titanium evolution of the form, one with smaller and more generally wearable proportions. But those proportions, as part of what is a clear attempt to market a Pelagos to a wider and less predominantly-male audience, came with technical compromises, including lesser water resistance, no HeV, no self-adjusting sprung clasp, and less of the ultra-matte execution in terms of finishing.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Why Make The Pelagos 39? "},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So, if you were in need of a recap of the previous episodes, there it is. All of those factors set the stage for a watch that surprised many and delighted even more, especially when Tudor made it clear that the new Pelagos would not replace the current trio of 500-meter apex dive watches. As a line extension, the Pelagos 39 offers a blend of the looks and aesthetic appeal that made the Pelagos so distinctive with the easy-to-wear conviviality of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["ed9aa1c1-3d42-4a27-9743-f915c3f69758"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As I, and many others, have stated since the 39 became a reality, this is a broad market take on the Pelagos. A rethinking that trades outright diving specificity for a watch that doesn't cut corners on its way to being an incredible everyday dive watch. The standard Pelagos has a niche appeal. Speaking specifically for my wrist, it's a bit big, both in terms of thickness and, more importantly, lug to lug. Furthermore, it's a bit serious. Especially for someone like me, who is at best a casual diver.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you don't dive at all, the Pelagos might feel like too much. I see the Pelagos 39 as Tudor's casual alternative of a conventional dive watch crossed with a Pelagos. The specs and sizing don't really diminish its ability to be a good dive watch, but the compromise makes it less hardcore than a standard Pelagos. And that's the point. If you've ever felt like the Pelagos was great while at the same time being a bit extra, the Pelagos 39 makes a lot of sense.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["7131f14e-6659-44b6-b4ac-87be29fb5b01"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Being a modern Tudor creation that is offered only in a no-date configuration, the Pelagos 39 uses the brand's MT5400 automatic movement. It's a COSC-certified chronometer movement with 70 hours of power reserve and a rate of 4 Hz. Backed by a five-year warranty, this is the same movement we have seen put to use in watches like the darling Black Bay 925. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>After having months to think about it, I've come up with a metaphor that I believe makes sense, but may upset a few folks. The Pelagos 39 is a dad (or mom) diver.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0fae90a7-08e2-48ad-bc39-31287e1c0d02"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>On one of my fav Youtube car channels, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC86SBFIAgnYL3ll2ZDgmsuA/" target=\"_blank\"><i>The Straight Pipes</i></a>, hosts Jakub and Yuri have a term for a car that is good and appealing, but not the top performance spec for the given model. They call it \"dad fast\". The idea being that the car is fast enough to feel entertaining and powerful, but isn't meant for someone who wants to run laps and shave tenths at the track. I kind of think of the Pelagos 39 in a similar way.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Putting aside the gendered nature of \"dad\" (shoutout Pelagos moms), if you dive a lot and love the idea of having a truly excellent dive watch with more specs than you'll ever need, the standard Pelagos is a great choice. But what if, like me, you dive a lot less than you used to, because you have kids and work, and you know, life stuff? Heck, what if you don't dive at all, but you like the format for its raw capability and casual charm? That's where the Pelagos 39 fits. It's not an RS4 or a GT3, it's an S4 or a Carrera T.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8b533d2d-ad3c-4f87-ab1b-4564c9b9c569"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Sure, it's a bit of a compromise towards general practicality, but it still beats going full minivan and just getting an Apple Watch, no?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And please take that – the part about the Pelagos, not the silly jab at the do-it-all Apple Watch – as I mean it. As simple praise for making a solid watch that makes as much sense diving as it does on dry land. When you're not on vacation. When you're just at home, living your life.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"How Is It On Wrist?"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I've covered this a few times, but for my seven-inch wrist, the Pelagos 39 is essentially perfect. You'll need to fiddle with the sizing and the setting of the T-Fit, but it's light, sits flat, and wears really really well on the bracelet, which tapers to 16mm at the clasp. I found myself greatly preferring the bracelet to the included rubber, and of course, I fell in love with the Pelagos 39 on a NATO.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["69ca8bdc-d31c-44fb-9b76-6b23f0ed1fee"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The T-Fit system is easy and quick to adjust and offered a wide enough delta to manage any wrist swelling that I experienced. No, I don't prefer T-Fit to the OG Pelagos clasp, but given the softened focus on diving, I think that T-Fit fits the brief and works well.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I also found that the Pelagos 39 worked with a variety of other straps, with the only possible holdback being the 21mm lug sizing, which is a pain, but also means I can share straps with my Mido Ocean Star GMT Hodinkee LE (which is also 21mm). Do I wish both were 20? Deeply, yes. But speaking specifically to the Pelagos 39, this is one of the few watches I might actually prefer on the bracelet. It just feels complete.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["81fdc776-3021-4713-8e1e-62c568424684","53081676-9e5a-4dca-b8ac-cf8ff2173598"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Legibility is excellent, the bezel is smooth and feels great, and the more simple dial design, without the complex rehaut, date, and additional text of the other Pelagos, gives the watch a somewhat more traditional feel. Which is only bolstered by the red name and Tudor's iconic snowflake hands.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I can't mention rehauts and text and not get into one of the biggest aesthetic changes made for the 39, the brushed ceramic bezel insert that trades the matte appeal of the original for a shinier finish that feels decidedly non-Pelgagos. In-person and on-wrist, it's a big change and I'd say that while I definitely prefer the full matte treatment of the original models, the 39's bezel grew on me and it certainly adds a distinctive character.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5e87b66f-ced5-4e75-ae26-0855cb1f5a8e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If wearability ranks highly among your watch-buying priorities, and I'd argue it should, the Pelagos 39 is definitely worth trying on.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Is It Perfect? "},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Close, but no. There are a few considerations to keep in mind. First is the aforementioned 21mm lugs, which might be a big deal for some. Second is the lume, which was lacking in brightness for the hands when compared to the bezel and markers. This was the case on both of the two examples I've had the chance to photograph for a lume shot. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["d0a704d8-f084-43fe-8cdf-9b6edf5a7b87"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's not that the lume isn't bright, it's that the hands are not as bright as the rest of the treatment. While I found this to be most noticeable when shooting a lume shot, in night-to-night use, the lume is functional and long-lasting. Hopefully, this is something Tudor rectifies in the future.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Finally, and this may seem obvious, but the nature of titanium is worth considering if you don't have previous experience with a titanium watch. Yes, it's lighter and stronger than steel, hypoallergenic, and much more resistant to corrosion (making it great for a dive watch). But, on the greater topic of compromises, titanium is also a softer metal and tends to scratch and ding much more easily than steel.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["922dcfa4-8390-47c0-b105-85f8fe48f273"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Tudor uses grade 2 titanium for the Pelagos 39, rather than the somewhat more premium grade 5, which is Ti 6AI-4V, representing an alloy with 6% aluminum and 4% vanadium. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Grade 5  is rated to be stronger than grade 2 and while I cannot comment specifically on the practical scratch resistance of one titanium over another, I can assure you that your Pelagos will definitely show scratches. It's best to see that as part of the fun. One or two scratches are a bummer, sure, but a skin of patina formed by wearing the watch day in and day out is something special and anything but a bummer.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Competition "},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Considering competition for the Pelagos 39 is a bit of a brain teaser as there is very little in terms of titanium dive watches in the premium space. Factoring for the $4,600 price point, the Pelagos 39's closest competition is one of the three 42mm Pelagos, which offer higher on-paper appeal at a modest increase to $4,925.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7dcea6b9-8413-4c35-b065-2fcdf3f9259d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you don't want (or feel as though you don't need) titanium, then a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tudor-black-bay-fifty-eight-navy-blue-hands-on/" target=\"_blank\">Black Bay Fifty-Eight</a> remains a winner and the class-leading <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/sinn-u50-hands-on/" target=\"_blank\">Sinn U50</a> offers a loosely similar (yet larger) modern take on a dive watch, but in steel and for even less, starting at $2,520 on a bracelet. Yet, neither feels like a direct cross-shop in my mind. I figure you either want the titanium enough to cancel out steel options, or you wouldn't want to pay the premium to go non-steel, right?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>At a lesser price point <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/citizens-latest-titanium-dive-watch-is-neo-vintage-without-the-weight/" target=\"_blank\">Citizen</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-aquascaphe-titanium-is-baltics-most-modern-watch-yet/" target=\"_blank\">Baltic</a> offer titanium (~$1,000), or you can go all the way in the other direction in terms of size and price for something from Grand Seiko, where something like an <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.grand-seiko.com/us-en/collections/sbga463g/" target=\"_blank\">SBGA463</a> costs $7,300, and comes in at 44.2mm. Again, I feel as though we're moving away from the same sort of appeal as the Pelagos 39.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["81f3680c-2290-41eb-abc0-f4f016f66fd8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I put the question out to the best watch community in the whole dang world (the TGN Crew Slack) and some of the responses latch on to the appeal more than simply the price, with many folks suggesting the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/seiko-prospex-spb143-a-week-on-the-wrist-review/" target=\"_blank\">Seiko SPB143</a> (or similar), pre-co-axial Omega Seamasters (41mm, examples like the ref. 2231 or 2232), or the Tag Heuer Aquaracer, which comes in 40mm for the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-surprisingly-light-tag-heuer-aquaracer-200-solagraph/" target=\"_blank\">Solargraph</a> but is quartz-powered and costs $3,050. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Finally, Seiko's up-market SLA-divers, like the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-seiko-prospex-diver-sla017-based-on-the-first-seiko-diver-6217-from-1965-and-the-prospex-diver-s/" target=\"_blank\">SLA017</a>, also got a handful of mentions, being 39.9mm, and in a price point much closer to that of the Pelagos. But now we're no longer in titanium and are considering watches where nostalgia is a large part of the appeal.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["e22ebcb6-dc0c-47f3-b22a-7e55813e1b4d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As I said, aside from some other Tudor, it's not an easy bit of math to figure out the competition to the Pelagos 39. Tudor has managed to make something uncommon in terms of its placement, sizing, and execution, while also essentially following the script when it comes to the basic idea of a dive watch<i>.</i> See why folks get excited over <i>just another dive watch</i>? Remember when I said I could save you all that reading? Well, you had your chance. Let's finish this together.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"To Close "},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Given the decade-long success of the Pelagos, the Pelagos 39 is a smart, well-executed, and entirely appealing evolution of the format. One that gives up some dive-specific acumen in a welcome trade for a more wearable and casual watch that makes the most out of the titanium while also ensuring it won't need to leave your wrist when you find the time in your schedule for that long-planned dive trip.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's a Pelagos for the rest of us.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["ed39053a-1f66-47b5-8aac-125bf35b39c3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>For more information visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.tudorwatch.com/en/watches/pelagos/m25407n-0001/" target=\"_blank\">Tudor</a>. The HODINKEE shop carries a variety of pre-owned <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/search?q=Tudor\%22 target=\"_blank\">Tudor watches</a>.</p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Tudor Pelagos 39 ","meta_description":"A video review of The Tudor Pelagos 39 from James Stacey. ","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"James Stacey","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"e3283355-a10c-45d8-9842-210afd55b720","container_id":11881,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/a75dfe85-472d-4f99-8699-8f45167787f3/L1006824.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"the tudor Pelagos 39","created_at":"2023-02-06T10:03:01.014-05:00","updated_at":"2023-02-10T08:30:53.504-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/a75dfe85-472d-4f99-8699-8f45167787f3/L1006824.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tudor-pelagos-39-compromising-with-confidence","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Tudor Pelagos 39: Compromising With Confidence ","tags":["tudor","a-week-on-the-wrist","dive-watch","titanium","pelagos","pelagos-39 "]},{"id":11853,"slug":"the-all-titanium-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-ultra-thin-41mm","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The All-Titanium Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 41mm","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2023-02-03T12:02:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2023-01-28T09:26:47.050-05:00","updated_at":"2023-03-01T16:31:43.818-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>The lightweight remix of the RD2 has arrived. </p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":41505,"public_token":"2bfd0ab641d682e1e5592632542bfb05","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you want to play the hits like AP, sometimes you have to consider a special remix, and the band from Le Brassus has just announced a special expression of the concept-only RD#2. This new model, which builds upon the success of a recent sibling sets the town with more titanium, less platinum, a new dial, and limited production. I'm in love. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["706032a0-7e10-4386-9c91-466b42a2824c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Allow me to elaborate. The <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-rd2-perpetual-calendar-ultra-thin-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">ultra-thin 41mm RD#2</a> was launched in platinum as a concept in 2018 (that watch can be seen below, it is supremely rare, equally cool, and very heavy on wrist). In 2019, AP announced the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-selfwinding-perpetual-calendar-ultra-thin-live-pics-pricing/" target=\"_blank\">Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin RD#2 reference 26586IP.OO.1240IP.01</a>, which featured a new non-tap dial design, and a blend of materials, in which much of the watch was titanium, save for the bezel and intermediate links in the bracelet – those are platinum and production was very limited but not part of a specific numbered edition. With this latest release, the world gets a second \"production\" take on the RD#2, this time it's limited to 200 units. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you can imagine these three watches in a sort of <i>Animorphs</i>-esque transformation. The concept RD#2 is platinum, the next RD#2 <i>26586IP</i> is platinum and titanium, and now the transformation has hit the next stage, full titanium. Measuring 41mm wide and just 6.2mm thick, the new 26586TI weighs just 75 grams, with the only non-titanium element of note being the screws for the bezel (which are made of white gold). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["993d0230-e57b-4bfa-b5df-c9811ca8b0d1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Aside from shedding a few grams of precious metal, the 26586TI sticks largely to the formula but adds in a new blue-to-black dial with black subdials, a red date accent, and the same blue aventurine moon phase. While I wasn't wild about the look of the smoky blue dial in the press images, it strikes a lovely balance in person that sees a wide variety of saturation in the blue depending on available light but no loss of contrast for the subdials. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Inside, we find the same record-setting ultra-thin movement as that found in the previous examples mentioned above, the AP 5133, which is a full perpetual calendar automatic movement with moon phase and day/night indication that is only 2.9mm thick. Pricing? Well, at a cool CHF 137,000, the price is neither lightweight nor thin. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I mean, I said it up top. I'm in love. Just as I was with the two preceding versions. High-end watchmaking that is light and wearable despite housing one of my <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/early-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-in-depth/" target=\"_blank\">all-time favorite complications</a>, you couldn't have slapped the smile off of my face when I tried on both the RD#2 and the new 26586TI in the span of just two minutes. The smile faded when I had to give it back, but I digress. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As a further expression of the RD#2, I think that the 26586TI speaks directly to the merits of the RD program and its ability to produce a Royal Oak that blends tradition with modern cutting-edge production. The watch looks incredible, feels amazing, light, and very special on wrist. And to my eyes represents a halo for the entire scope of the modern Royal Oak.  </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["13894215-b573-4ea8-873d-4c0dd07ab6c4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If the pricing even matters – and for the target audience with this watch I'm not convinced it does– this titanium creation does come in a hair less dear than the proceeding titanium and platinum RD#2 26586IP, which launched at CHF 140,000. To my eyes, it's a great remix of the original and a direct, distinct, and appealing evolution of the 2019 ref 26586IP.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Brand:</strong> Audemars Piguet<br><strong>Model:</strong> Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 41mm<br><strong>Reference Number: </strong>26586TI.OO.1240TI. 01</p>\n\n<p><strong>Diameter:</strong> 41mm<br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 6.2mm<br><strong>Weight: </strong>75 grams <br><strong>Case Material:</strong> Titanium<br><strong>Dial Color:</strong> Blue to black gradient<br><strong>Indexes:</strong> Applied<br><strong>Lume: </strong>Hands and markers<br><strong>Water Resistance:</strong> 20 meters<br><strong>Strap/Bracelet: </strong>Full titanium bracelet</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ee938efc-e4b8-4ef5-8d37-fb185fd3ce34"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Caliber:</strong> AP Selfwinding Caliber 5133<br><strong>Functions:</strong> Hours, minutes, perpetual calendar, moon phase, day/night<br><strong>Diameter:</strong> 32mm<br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 2.9mm<br><strong>Power Reserve:</strong> 40 hours<br><strong>Winding:</strong> Automatic <br><strong>Frequency:</strong> 19,800 vph<br><strong>Jewels: </strong>37 </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3083fe30-9d89-45df-a04e-eb178cc12af5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Price:</strong> CHF 137,000<br><strong>Availability:</strong> AP Boutiques <br><strong>Limited Edition: </strong>200 pieces. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>The Hodinkee shop has a wide selection of pre-owned pieces from Audemars Piguet. For more on this Royal Oak, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/home.html/" target=\"_blank\">visit the brand's website.</a></p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Introducing: The All-Titanium Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 41mm","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"9a8bf7d0-f9fd-4dc8-abc5-79f732b11c3a","container_id":11853,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/c9c30bbd-4511-49cb-acf1-885971fdaf27/2177D98D-8A51-4D3B-84FC-337C7156C0E2.jpeg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpeg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"AP Royal Oak QP titanium ultra thin","created_at":"2023-01-28T09:26:47.258-05:00","updated_at":"2023-01-28T09:26:47.258-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/c9c30bbd-4511-49cb-acf1-885971fdaf27/2177D98D-8A51-4D3B-84FC-337C7156C0E2.jpeg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-all-titanium-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-ultra-thin-41mm","full_title":"Introducing: The All-Titanium Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 41mm","tags":["audemars-piguet","introducing","new-watches-2023"]},{"id":11847,"slug":"the-synchron-poseidon-limited-edition-and-its-swedish-connection","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"The Synchron Poseidon Limited Edition And Its Swedish Connection","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2023-01-27T13:00:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2023-01-26T17:53:07.041-05:00","updated_at":"2023-01-27T13:04:01.557-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Sporting special logo and an unexpected movement.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":31426,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"feature","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Following the sell-out performance of the oh-so-seventies <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/7-summer-watches-that-can-handle-the-heat/" target=\"_blank\">Military</a>, Sycnhron is back with another vintage-inspired dive watch called the Poseidon. Forging a direct link with the famed Swedish diving equipment manufacturer, <i>Poseidon Dive Systems</i>, this new limited edition offering is the civilian side of a dive watch project that saw Synchron and Poseidon designing a watch that will be tested by the Swedish Armed Forces. Offered in two versions and sporting an unexpected movement, the Poseidon picks up precisely where the Military left off. That is, somewhere in the seventies. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["48db3b12-1b3d-4173-bc03-3d0b32d89720"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Using the same (or a very similar) case design as that of the Military, the Poseidon is offered only in brushed steel and measures 42mm wide, 14.3mm thick, and 45.3mm lug-to-lug. Fitted to the included light grey Isofrane rubber strap, the Poseidon weighs in at 127g and boasts 300 meters of water resistance, a steel case back, a sapphire crystal and bezel insert, and a blocky Military-esque dial with a date at three.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Those paying attention may have caught the minor detail that splits the limited production run in half. It's the hour hand and the seconds hand. In an edition of 1,000 Poseidons (Poseidie?), Synchron is making 500 with those hands in white, and 500 in black. A subtle difference to be sure, but if you're very picky about your hour hand coloring, I suppose it's always nice to have options. Those with a very keen eye will also note that the Poseidon logo on the black version is ever so slightly larger than on the white one, chalk that up to prototyping as the white-handed version in these images is an earlier design and the black-handed version represents the retail product.  </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b4fef3e2-79e6-4e9c-a3e3-01307afeeda4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Otherwise, the exterior design language reflects the Synchron Military and its homage to the Doxa Army of the 1970s. The most considerable change here is with the plongeur hands and the coloring, with the Poseidon having a light grey center dial, yellow accents, and bearing the (deeply cool) Poseidon logo – which we have seen on more than a handful of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/doxa-sub-300t-divingstar-poseidon-edition-introducing/" target=\"\"><u>past Doxa models</u></a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I don't want to belabor the specific history of Poseidon (the dive equipment company), but some context could be helpful. The brand was founded in 1958 (then under the name <i>Aquasport)</i> and it was the first scuba manufacturer to design and offer a single hose regulator, a design that has since become the standard for conventional diving. The brand continued to innovate in diving and would later release the first-ever recreational <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rebreather/" target=\"\"><u>rebreather</u></a>. Today, they are a leading brand in the diving space and produce an array of diving equipment that is used all over the world, including by the diving elements of the Swedish Armed Forces.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e518d848-c3cb-4387-9989-617f5fe80cbb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Poseidon had a pre-existing relationship with Synchron's current leadership and the result of the exercise is this limited edition. The military connection is also the impetus behind the Poseidon not sporting the same ETA movement as the preceding Military. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>According to Sycnhron, the watch needed a power reserve that offered a longer duration than the ~40 hours of an ETA 2824 (or similar). As such, the Synchron Poseidon employs a La Joux-Perret G100, which is an automatic Swiss-made movement meant to operate as a higher-spec option for watches designed around the 2824 platform. With 68 hours of power reserve, this 4 Hz movement is adjusted in four positions.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["2337c1d4-9b6f-48a2-aa91-5adbbfe98021"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Poseidon is being released in conjunction with Cold Divex 2023, a military demonstration held by the Swedish Armed Forces in Boden, Sweden. According to Synchron, the diving units of the Swedish Armed Forces will be testing specialized versions of the Poseidon in this arctic environment. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>On wrist, the Synchron Poseidon wears identically to the Military, a watch that I owned and wore almost constantly for the summer of 2021 with plenty of dock jumping, cabin renovations, and general summer shenanigans. The dimensions make for a very nicely wearing watch, though I wouldn't call the Poseidon thin. At a bit over 14mm thick, with the width and lug-to-lug making for a nearly square footprint, the Poseidon wears in a happily chunky manner.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you want a Doxa comparison, the Poseidon is thicker and with more heft than a thin-case Doxa Sub 300, but much better balanced on my wrist than a 600T. While I wore one of the loaners on a NATO, I think a two-piece strap offers a better experience and keeps the weight of the Poseidon closer to your wrist. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Combined with the thick and robust nature of the Isofrane rubber, the watch has a summery vibe that is similar to the Military and one that I rather like. It's bright and fun - the sort of watch that will make you smile as the time pushes past five o'clock on the eve of a July long weekend.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["2ee7b8cd-af43-4005-9d26-22cb5b0e1e26"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["023145a2-08fe-4fa4-aaa0-60ee69e97704","8407f545-9144-45a1-bdc1-5569365c19b1"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Assuming that the only tight sleeve in sight is that of a wetsuit, I really like the way these cases wear as they offer an appropriate amount of bulk for a watch with '70s dive watch inspiration, without being too much to wear for days on end. It's not a dress watch or a small skin diver – it's a handsome lump of steel that manages to very much feel like a piece of vintage dive-specific equipment.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The bezel is of the 120-click variety but has an extremely fine fitment with a crisp click, no wiggle or slop, and plenty of edge grip. With a fully graduated minute scale and lume for the numerals placed at every 10-minute segment, legibility is great and it's the sort of bezel I'd be finding silly excuses just to use (what, you don't ever time the interval between the low-battery chime from one of your home smoke detectors?).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["4a70d3eb-48a1-40fd-96e8-0e47262c6c25"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I rather enjoyed my Military, so it's of little surprise that I like the Poseidon, which Synchron is selling via pre-order for $999. After the pre-order, which ends on February 28th of this year, the standard price of $1,290 comes into effect. At $990, it's something of a deal and I'd expect a lot of interest from the same folks that helped the Military sell out quickly when it launched on pre-order back in 2021.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Even at the full price (roughly the same as that of a solid Seiko Prospex model), it's a good-looking 300m dive watch made in limited quantities as a collaboration with a storied dive equipment manufacturer and it has a higher-spec movement than we might expect for both the price point and format.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["fb7157a8-5ba5-4554-b9ff-ea3db6e4da9c","1839bfdf-e66d-4e6f-bb14-424a2b62d193"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["eab9941a-b5a7-4ba0-8c67-62d67b4bf89e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Much like with the Military, the Poseidon is something of a niche offering. But, for those within the folds of the correct niche, there is a lot of appeal, the pre-order pricing feels entirely realistic, and it's always fun to see that logo back on the dial of a tough and colorful '70s-themed diver.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>Synchron watches are sold directly via the brand's own website, for more information about the Poseidon LE, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://synchronusa.com/product/synchron-poseidon//" target=\"_blank\">please click here. </a></p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hands-On: The Synchron Poseidon","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. Includes original photography and full product analysis.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.007-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.463-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"bc6e1a2a-d591-463b-bb2a-1b5976d262d2","container_id":11847,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/86cc3590-ad75-41bf-9cbe-abaf96d2203a/L1130122.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"the synchron poseidon ","created_at":"2023-01-26T17:53:07.080-05:00","updated_at":"2023-01-26T17:56:04.390-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/86cc3590-ad75-41bf-9cbe-abaf96d2203a/L1130122.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-synchron-poseidon-limited-edition-and-its-swedish-connection","full_title":"Hands-On: The Synchron Poseidon Limited Edition And Its Swedish Connection","tags":["diving-watch","hands-on","synchron","poseidon"]},{"id":11810,"slug":"the-vulcain-skindiver-nautique","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The Vulcain Skindiver Nautique ","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2023-01-17T15:00:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2023-01-17T09:08:48.337-05:00","updated_at":"2023-03-01T17:04:58.579-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>38mm of rose-tinted dive watch appeal. </p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":39637,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Following last year's alarming <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cricket-vulcain-the-watch-of-presidents-receives-a-jolt-of-energy-with-these-new-re-editions-live-pi/" target=\"_blank\">relaunch of the darling Cricket</a>, Vulcain has just announced a brand-new vintage-inspired dive watch for 2023 – the Skindiver Nautique 38mm. Taking direct inspiration from a model that was produced by Vulcain throughout the 1960s, this modern interpretation looks to re-issue the Nautique into what is left of today's nostalgia-driven market with the support of a price tag that barely breaks into the four-figure range. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c8ab7b88-d309-4c1d-aca4-6920ed6c5acd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Skindiver Nautique measures 38mm wide, 12.2 mm thick, and 44.5mm lug to lug. It's a bit smaller (in every dimension) than something like a Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight and roughly the same width and thickness as a Timex Q. Available in two versions, Vulcain is offering the Nautique in either a matte black dial or a brushed blue dial. Both versions come with faux-aged lume, no date, 200 meters of water resistance, a sapphire crystal, and a solid steel caseback. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As you can see from the image below, the new Skindiver Nautique holds true to the design of the original model, which is a hair smaller at 37mm. The new model features a more refined bezel design with a black ceramic insert that carries a lightweight but fully graduated scale that works quite nicely with the minute markings for the dial.  </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["151ea16f-b047-45f3-ba5b-b5864f81db79"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Running an ETA 2824 automatic movement – which has been modified for a no-date application, so no phantom date position – either colorway appears to be available on one of three quick-change leather straps (black, black carbon-effect, or brown) and Vulcain will be selling their new diver for CHF 1490, which is roughly $1,618 at the time this story was published. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's a 38mm vintage-effect dive watch that sticks close to the original design and carries a storied brand name on the dial, all for well less than two grand – what's not to like? </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2495f014-82af-4eb1-9ed6-a2a6bced32f4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While I think it's a bit odd that Vulcain doesn't offer a tropic-style rubber strap as one of the options for their Skindiver Nautique, I'm essentially picking nits for a watch that will almost certainly appeal to anyone who hasn't yet grown tired of the vintage-inspired trend. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The proportions are solid and make sense within the (loose) guise of a skindiver. The looks are classic '60s, in a conventional, almost anonymous way that, to my mind, almost makes the watch feel more vintage. And it's hard to argue with the inclusion of an ETA 2824, as it's a reliable, proven, and easily serviced movement that is capable of keeping excellent time.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9ee42142-062e-48b4-a662-e6312e6de275"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Of the two, I much prefer the black dial as I find the blue dial to be a weird match for the black bezel insert (this is admittedly deeply subjective). With 20mm lugs, I have to assume that either version would sing on your favorite strap and I'm sure I'd quickly fit a NATO. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The pricing seems realistic and it places the Skindiver Nautique as the entry point for the Vulcain brand. In a world where a '60s-inspired Seiko (like the SPB143) costs $1,200 and an Oris Diver's Sixty-Five starts around $2,000, I think an ETA-powered and Swiss-made option from a known brand does make sense somewhere in the middle. For those wanting a diver that is smaller than a Mido Oceanstar Tribute (40.5mm, $1,150) or somewhat more conventional than options from Doxa, Bulova, or Zodiac – the Skindiver Nautique seems well-positioned, especially being 38mm. That said, I do figure that you are paying a small premium to have Vulcain on the dial rather than something like Mido, Certina, Seiko, or Citizen. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["32ce5465-4205-4ce7-8512-60ada193d4c3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>All told, the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique is an easy-to-understand re-issue of a sixties design that nails the easy-wearing appeal of a small and subtle dive watch. It doesn't do anything new, but that's essentially the whole point. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Brand:</strong> Vulcain <br><strong>Model:</strong> Skindiver Nautique <br><strong>Reference Number: </strong>VUL-DI-001 (black) | VUL-DI-002 (blue)</p>\n\n<p><strong>Diameter:</strong> 38mm <br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 12.2mm<br><strong>Lug-to-lug: </strong>44.5mm<br><strong>Case Material:</strong> Steel<br><strong>Dial Color:</strong> Black or blue<br><strong>Indexes:</strong> Painted<br><strong>Lume:</strong> Yes, tan-tinted Super-LumiNova<br><strong>Water Resistance:</strong> 200 meters<br><strong>Strap/Bracelet:</strong> Quick-change black leather strap with steel pin buckle (other leather straps available, including a brown option). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fcf98751-dcc0-4103-8dc1-5fc70c454d72"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Caliber:</strong> ETA 2824 (elabore grade) <br><strong>Functions:</strong> Hours, minutes, seconds (date position removed from movement)<br><strong>Diameter:</strong> 25.6mm<br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 4.6mm<br><strong>Power Reserve:</strong> 38 hours <br><strong>Winding:</strong> Automatic<br><strong>Frequency:</strong> 28,800 vph<br><strong>Jewels:</strong> 25</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c0d5fc41-19b8-4f13-87df-d62de5ba3183"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Price:</strong> CHF 1,490 ($1618 USD at time of publishing)<br><strong>Availability: </strong>On sale starting January 18th, shipping slated for February 2023. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>Vulcain watches are sold via the brand's own website, for more information <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://vulcain.ch/collections/nautique-diver/" target=\"_blank\">please click here.</a> </p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Introducing: The Vulcain Skindiver Nautique ","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"c769563b-cc28-4b5d-ac91-e3112f4e8545","container_id":11810,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/6b8497f5-b752-4470-a84c-b4da59756980/vulcain-nautique-38mm-hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"blue dial Vulcain watch ","created_at":"2023-01-17T09:08:48.443-05:00","updated_at":"2023-01-17T12:46:47.597-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/6b8497f5-b752-4470-a84c-b4da59756980/vulcain-nautique-38mm-hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vulcain-skindiver-nautique","full_title":"Introducing: The Vulcain Skindiver Nautique ","tags":["vulcain","introducing","vintage-inspired","skin-diver","new-watches-2023","nautique"]},{"id":11797,"slug":"the-seiko-prospex-sla065-save-the-ocean-limited-edition","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The Seiko Prospex SLA065 Save The Ocean Limited Edition","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2023-01-13T15:00:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2023-01-12T10:34:44.524-05:00","updated_at":"2023-03-01T16:45:22.017-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>A higher-spec take on a winning formula. </p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":53934,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you're not in the market for a new Seiko dive watch, go read something else because Seiko is kicking off the new year with something special for the dive watch nerds among us. It's the new SLA065 and it's part of the upper tier of the Prospex lineup, offering an appealing blend of vintage styling, a few special elements, and an upgraded movement that is saved for Seiko's best mechanical dive watches. Its full name is the <i>Prospex Save the Ocean Limited Edition 1965 Modern Re-Interpretation</i>, so I think you'll cut me some slack if I just called it the SLA065, from here on out. Regardless of the name, the \"SLA\" part is a clue that this latest Seiko is something special. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["28f3ab58-902c-4065-93a4-c916af28a1a1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Let's get some specs out of the way. The SLA065 is a steel dive watch that measures 41.3 mm wide and 13.1mm thick (Seiko does not provide a lug-to-lug length). The water resistance is 200 meters, and it has drilled lugs, an anti-reflective double-domed sapphire crystal, a \"super-hard\" coating for the steel case, and a screw-down crown.  </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you're anything like me, you saw a skin diver-style case and the SLA-range reference and figured that the new SLA065 is a special version of something like the SLA017, which Seiko released at Baselworld 2017. But the 017 was 39.9mm x 14.1 mm and attempted to best capture the proportions of Seiko's original dive watch, the 62MAS. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["539cac7f-1018-4f9e-b9ff-947e5221b37a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For the SLA065, the proportions are closer to what we've come to expect from the SPB models with a skin diver-style case (like the SPB143 or similar, aka. the 20MAS). The bezel is a bit wider, as are the markers and hands, and we see a small marker next to the date to ensure ISO compliance and a Zaratsu-polished bevel on the lug edge. For those keeping score, the SLA065 is not only larger than the SLA017, but also 0.8mm wider than the 20MAS models, while at the same time a good bit thinner (13.1 vs 13.7 for the SPB143). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Tucked inside those case dimensions we find two noteworthy elements. First is the metallic blue dial that carries an engraved design inspired by an astrolabe, which is a navigational tool used to help sailors determine their location based on the position of the sun and other stars. It's entirely old-world but Seiko says the direct inspiration comes from a charity they support that is conducting underwater archeology near the Greek island of Fournoi. Seiko does not specifically name the charity/research outfit, but the project is working to better understand navigation and sailing in the Mediterranean as far back as the fourth century. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The second element of note is the movement as the SLA range often gets a higher-spec movement and the 065 gets Seiko's 8L35 automatic, which is among the best movements Seiko uses in dive watches. Based on the Grand Seiko 9S55, the 8L35 ticks at 4 Hz and has a power reserve of 50 hours. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The SLA065 is limited to 1,300 pieces, each with a price tag of $2,900. That is a good bit less than the $3,400 that the original SLA017 commanded and a good bit more than the roughly $1,200 that a 20MAS will likely set you back. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For me, from the first glance to the hundredth, the SLA065 looks a lot more like a sibling to the SPB143 than it does a continuation of the same format established by the SLA017 – and I think that makes sense. The SPB143 (and its many siblings) have been a huge win for Seiko and the SLA065 takes a largely similar look but tweaks it for enthusiast appeal and better performance. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e4763dca-7225-4f4d-9459-13bcb43b10c6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Also, it's not as though 41.3mm is bad, or in any way \"too big\" at a general level and, from my perspective, I'd rather have a watch that was half a centimeter thinner rather than half a centimeter smaller in width (if we can't have both, I guess). I think the dial looks incredible, as does the metallic blue bezel insert (the bezel edge is also Zaratsu polished). But ultimately, with the 20MAs models being as good as they are, who is this limited edition for? </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1fc654c5-c1ce-4976-b5f5-ea21b96a2dd6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In my eyes, it's for the type of Seiko fan that found the 20MAS formula close but not close enough. They want the vintage styling, but in the most special format possible and they don't want to deal with a 4 or 6-series movement that may not keep great time (anecdotally, my SPB143 has been a-ok on this front). Fulfilling the need for specialness, the SLA065 is an LE, and it has a unique dial (very Seiko), and it has a higher-spec and very well-respected movement. It's a spend more, get more scenario for a collector who likes the '60s-derived looks of the SPB143 (or similar), but is willing to pay more for... well, more. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When the SLA017 first came out I was sure that, someday, I would need to have one. Then, in 2020, the SPB143 wiped that need away for me as it offered a less expensive watch that nailed the specific aesthetic and wrist presence in a way that the SKX007 or SRP777 never could for my wrist. Now, we find a further blending of the concepts with the SLA065 representing the latest top-spec offering for a specific niche within the wide world of Seiko dive watches. I do hope I can get my hands on a loaner for the SLA065 and that this new release marks the start of another great year for Prospex. Stay tuned. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Brand:</strong> Seiko <br><strong>Model:</strong> Prospex Save the Ocean Limited Edition 1965 Modern Re-Interpretation<br><strong>Reference Number: </strong>SLA065</p>\n\n<p><strong>Diameter:</strong> 41.3mm<br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 13.1mm<br><strong>Case Material:</strong> Steel with hardened surface treatment<br><strong>Dial Color:</strong> Blue<br><strong>Indexes:</strong> Applied<br><strong>Lume:</strong> Yes, LumiBrite hands and markers<br><strong>Water Resistance:</strong> 200 meters<br><strong>Strap/Bracelet: </strong>Blue silicone dive strap with matching steel hardware. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Caliber:</strong> Seiko 8L35<br><strong>Functions:</strong> Hours, minutes, seconds, date<br><strong>Power Reserve:</strong> 50 hours<br><strong>Winding:</strong> Automatic<br><strong>Frequency:</strong> 28,800 vph<br><strong>Jewels:</strong> 26</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5bd6857e-d090-4c8b-a582-42d80396d5cd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Price:</strong> $2,900<br><strong>Availability</strong>: Seiko boutiques and select retailers worldwide.  <br><strong>Limited Edition: </strong>1,300 units</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>The Hodinkee Shop is an Authorized Retailer of Seiko watches. You can check out our collection <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/watches?refinementList%5Bnamed_tags.brand_name%5D%5B0%5D=Seiko&amp;page=1&amp;sort=latest\%22 target=\"\">here</a>. For more information about the Seiko Prospex SLA065 Save The Ocean LE, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.seikowatches.com/global-en/products/prospex/special/1965_savetheocean/index/" target=\"_blank\">click here</a>. </p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Introducing: The Seiko Prospex SLA065","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"2e5f896e-7310-42b0-9a02-1046862c80c9","container_id":11797,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/c17e0daf-3dcb-498b-82a2-f02630ec5018/Seiko-Prospex-SLA065-hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"a seiko prospex SLA065 watch in front of some waves ","created_at":"2023-01-12T10:34:44.722-05:00","updated_at":"2023-01-12T17:49:28.319-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/c17e0daf-3dcb-498b-82a2-f02630ec5018/Seiko-Prospex-SLA065-hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-seiko-prospex-sla065-save-the-ocean-limited-edition","full_title":"Introducing: The Seiko Prospex SLA065 Save The Ocean Limited Edition","tags":["seiko","dive-watch","prospex","sla065"]},{"id":11791,"slug":"take-to-the-ice-with-the-new-porsche-design-chronograph-1-gp-2023-edition","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"Take To The Ice With The New Porsche Design Chronograph 1 GP 2023 Edition","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2023-01-11T15:00:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2023-01-10T09:47:40.467-05:00","updated_at":"2023-01-31T18:56:33.896-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>The latest special edition of the Chronograph 1 for GP Ice Race 2023.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":32564,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"feature","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"right_rail"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The connection between watches and motorsports is one that was forged in the golden era of sports watches and international racing events. Brands like Rolex, TAG Heuer, and many others looked to connect their luxurious and sporting watch designs with the world of Formula One, endurance races like Le Mans and Daytona, and many more. And you know what? It worked.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9130c44b-fa46-4b9e-9e2e-62d59bcf405b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>We have the Rolex Daytona (and the race it's named after), the TAG Heuer Monaco (to name one example from a brand with very deep motorsports roots) and in the modern context we find special edition watches from IWC, Richard Mille, and others that connect the given product with the ethos of a driver, a team, a race, or even a series. Where did you think TAG Heuer got the name for their Formula 1?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5ab19bd5-5a9d-4a08-ace7-2369111c76fa"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Last year Cole brought us an inside look at another notable partnership, the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/priceless-porsches-skijoring-and-a-cool-chronograph-at-winters-wildest-event-welcome-to-the-gp-ice-r/" target=\"\">GP Ice Race</a> and a special Porsche Design watch created to commemorate the 2022 running of the event in Zell am See, Austria.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Well, this year Porsche Design and the GP team are back with another limited edition model to commemorate the 2023 event, which is taking place in just a few weeks, running from January 27 to 29. Following suit from last year, the new Ice Race model is based on Porsche Design's Chronograph 1 and it's called, fittingly, the GP 2023 Edition.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["602e9140-f54a-4cf6-8aaf-c93fa3db106a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>We'll get to the watch in a moment, but I did want to strongly suggest that you <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/priceless-porsches-skijoring-and-a-cool-chronograph-at-winters-wildest-event-welcome-to-the-gp-ice-r/" target=\"\">read Cole's story from last year as the GP Ice Race</a> is about a lot more than some cars driving around on a frozen surface. You can learn more about the history <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://gpicerace.com/?gclid=CjwKCAiAk--dBhABEiwAchIwkdwNDfHMRNAVjXpCaaimjixrR0Kbxk7WW72kyzyQWRZEg10GRde_TBoCC2cQAvD_BwE\%22 target=\"\">here</a>, but in the modern context, the folks behind GP have recreated a traditional ice racing event and turned it into a festival for automotive enthusiasts of all kinds. Nestled in the Austrian alps, Ice Race brings all facets of car culture into one special place – out on the ice.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Did you happen to catch my recent <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-with-ferdi-porsche/" target=\"\">Talking Watches with Ferdi Porsche</a>? He is part of the leadership behind GP and is also the nephew of F.A. Porsche, who founded Studio F.A. Porsche and in turn Porsche Design. I spent a week with the small teams that bring both of these worlds together and it's no stretch to say that when it comes to cars and watches, they are both great company and complete nerds, the partnership makes a lot of sense.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["d75b487c-41a5-4cc5-8db0-a8ea6b563242"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["50bfb704-10d0-4516-a53e-c53a4e10f522","de8c9a06-99c7-4ef6-9879-9451936b73c6"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But let's get to the watch, the Porsche Design Chronograph 1 GP 2023 Edition. It's a special take on the Chronograph 1 formula, and while based on the format that was relaunched last year for the 50th anniversary of the Chronograph 1's creation, it has been given a number of small tweaks that not only set it apart from the standard Chronograph 1, but also from that of the previous 2022 Edition.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Sticking to a proven formula, the GP 2023 Edition has a titanium case that measures 40.8mm wide, 14.15mm thick, and 45mm lug-to-lug. With a black dial and bright neon orange chronograph accents – which remain directly referential to the gauges of a 911, a car that was designed by F.A. Porsche, who also designed the Chronograph 1 in the early '70s – the GP 2023 Edition sports a 60-scale rehaut (vs. 2022's tachymeter) and a day/date display (in English and German, natürlich) capped by the vintage Porsche Design logo. The movement has another surprise in store, but we'll get to that shortly.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["abd4c1c7-0343-44e2-9ee7-ff84c88fe7be"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The most obvious derivation from both the standard Chronograph 1 and the sold-out GP 2022 Edition, is 2023's use of a bare titanium case rather than black titanium carbide surface treatment. But, in a fun visual mix that really grew on me over my time with the GP 2023 Edition, the screw-down crown and chronograph pushers are treated to a black finish, as are the quick-release adapters for the white nylon/velcro GP Ice Race strap. If this is Zell's take on two-tone, I'm here for it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["4e94224f-c31d-4523-a1b7-1b7f754fef2f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Water resistance is 100 meters, the front crystal is sapphire, and the back has a closed titanium caseback. On the caseback there's the standard edition number out of the 250-piece run and a couple more surprises. First, the tiny image of a yeti driving a tractor, which is something of a calling card for GP Ice Race. Next is one special little word that is always a treat on an automotive-themed chronograph… flyback.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["1afb1042-0baf-46fb-ae1f-73d73026e183"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Yessssss. The evolution of the GP Edition from 2022 to 2023 is not simply aesthetic as Porsche Design has fitted their Werk 01.240 automatic chronograph movement, which features a full 12-hour chronograph with central seconds and flyback functionality to the watch. For those unsure, a flyback chronograph allows the wearer to restart the chronograph from zero without first stopping and resetting the measure. Just press the pusher at four while the chronograph is running and the measure zeros out and then continues on.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While the flyback function can trace its roots to Longines and WWII aviation, it's also quite handy when you want to very quickly reset a chronograph for another event, such as when a race car starts another timed lap. Without the flyback feature, you'd need an additional chronograph if you wanted to accurately measure flying lap times.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["33dccfa7-6b39-4d1a-9063-863e911a7659"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Werk 01.240 is a proprietary 4Hz automatic movement with 48 hours of power reserve and COSC chronometer certification. The movement itself is manufactured by Concepto in a setup that is exclusive to Porsche Design (including elements like the quick-change day/date). The base design references the longstanding architecture of the Valjoux 7750 and once the movements are delivered to Porsche Design, their manufacture team completes in-house quality control and confirms COSC performance for each movement. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>On wrist, the GP 2023 Edition is largely what I expected, a slightly different take on one of my favorite watches of 2022. Between us, I don't think they needed to change anything about the GP 2022 Edition, as it was a lovely iteration of an already hard-to-get watch (that being the \"standard\" 2022 Chronograph 1). They could have made more of the same and just slapped on a 2023 case back, but I'm thankful that they didn't as the GP 2023 Edition is nothing short of a treat.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["26c51b80-d0b3-4c8a-985a-f1eb01dc0080","590beed3-ff20-411c-bd88-7bc8c54c0de0"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["be7339e0-4f82-49ad-8517-8fcd53856958"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The sizing is excellent with hooded lugs that articulate well on a variety of wrists and enough width to help the Chronograph 1 feel modern and well-proportioned. Legibility is excellent, the lume is solid, and the flat sapphire crystal ensures minimal glare. All of the touchpoints, be it the crown, the pushers, or the small buttons to disengage the quick-release system for the straps, all feel well made, easy to use, and absolutely befitting of a watch at its price point of just over $9k.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The quick-release system is a cut above almost anything I've tried at any price point. It's smooth, mechanically positive (so that you know when it's clicked in place), and doesn't require an insane amount of pressure or even a specially-shaped fingernail. The GP 2023 Edition comes with two straps, a black leather option and a longer two-piece white nylon strap that is meant to be worn over the sleeve of your winter jacket while you ski behind a vintage race car on a frozen runway in Austria. Seriously, it's called Skijoring – have you still not read <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/priceless-porsches-skijoring-and-a-cool-chronograph-at-winters-wildest-event-welcome-to-the-gp-ice-r/" target=\"\">Cole's story from last year's Ice Race?</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b03e9bb3-4e5c-4b42-bec3-0351eb2bec97"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>On either strap, regardless of the edition, I love the way the Chronograph 1 wears. There is something so very pleasing and modern about the taper of the case into the strap or strap adapter, just as it is with the bracelet on other models. Sure, the nylon strap is a bit of a gimmick, but Ice Race is all about having fun with cars and I think the strap fits that vibe beautifully.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And though I'm not generally one for black straps, the included black leather from Porsche Design is slim, simple, and feels great on wrist while giving the GP 2023 Edition something of a more serious look and feel that is matched by its titanium double-folding clasp. While I'd add that I do wish they had offered a bare titanium bracelet to match, I've owned other watches with the same sort of case and lug design (think: Sinn 144) and found them to be fairly flexible when it comes to strap options. I think a nicely worn green canvas strap would look great with the 2023 Edition.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ceb1b979-c848-435e-814b-a0b038631b7d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Limited to just 250 examples – a few of which will be available via the Hodinkee Shop – the Porsche Design Chronograph 1 GP 2023 Edition is currently on pre-order for $9,650, which is the same price as the current-spec Chronograph 1 \"All Black Numbered Edition\" and only a small increase over the ~$8,500 of the 2022 Edition, given the inclusion of a flyback chronograph movement and COSC certification.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>All told, I like it, a lot. Yes, it's the kind of \"a lot\" that would be more meaningful if I could afford the watch in question, but I do plan to someday own a Porsche Design Chronograph 1. It's a great-looking, distinctive, and legitimately automotive-themed chronograph that doesn't mess with a proven design while still managing to excel on small details.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["254baae9-8ad7-4b49-b0a4-689304a3ea85"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As a reference to Porsche Design's connection to Ferdi Porsche and the GP Ice Race, I like the watch all the more. Though I am gutted to say that I can't make Ice Race this year, I am happy to have had a chance to see the GP 2023 Edition in the metal. Next year, if I'm lucky, maybe I'll take the 2024 Edition out for some Skijoring.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 GP 2023 Edition is being offered in limited availability via the Hodinkee Shop. Discover <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/porsche-design-chronograph-1-gp-2023-edition/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>. You can also learn more at <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.porsche-design.com/us/en/porsche-design-shop/shop/timepieces//" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Porsche Design</a>. </p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hands-On: The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 GP Ice Race 2023 Edition","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. Includes original photography and full product analysis.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.007-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.463-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"4382f5a3-f859-4f67-bd53-5627bc042d56","container_id":11791,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/cd9d7bda-cd8e-4b90-ab28-a2f3c2fe1e5a/L1110919.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"the Porsche Design Chronograph 1 GP 2023 Edition","created_at":"2023-01-10T09:47:40.574-05:00","updated_at":"2023-01-10T16:07:10.433-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/cd9d7bda-cd8e-4b90-ab28-a2f3c2fe1e5a/L1110919.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/take-to-the-ice-with-the-new-porsche-design-chronograph-1-gp-2023-edition","full_title":"Hands-On: Take To The Ice With The New Porsche Design Chronograph 1 GP 2023 Edition","tags":["porsche-design","limited-edition","gp-ice-race","chronograph-1","2023"]},{"id":11775,"slug":"hublot-classic-fusion-original-goes-back-to-where-it-all-began","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"Hublot Classic Fusion Original Goes Back To Where It All Began","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2023-01-10T21:09:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2023-01-04T15:17:28.318-05:00","updated_at":"2023-01-11T07:14:47.585-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Your Carlo Crocco cosplay just leveled up. </p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":16624,"public_token":"a981df26a1ed8cdcbed14d6c22ec2997","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you awoke today, groggy from a 35-year stint in cryogenic hibernation, and you wanted a watch that would remind you of the sleek, dazzling veneer of the 1980s long since past, it's hard to think of anything more fitting than a Hublot – especially one like the newly announced Classic Fusion Original. A direct tribute to the original Hublot created by founder Carlo Crocco in 1980, the new Classic Fusion Original comes in your choice of three different materials and three different sizes, all of which look to connect the Classic Fusion with its roots as a disruptively luxurious watch. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["783aaa3d-7045-4560-887a-6438a8d61d3e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Perfect for planning your next hostile takeover, Hublot is offering the Classic Fusion Original in 33, 38, and 42mm sizing and each of the three sizes come in titanium, black magic (ceramic), or yellow gold. Regardless of the size and case material, all of the nine available versions have a polished black dial, minimal markings, a white-on-black date at three, and come on a black rubber strap with hardware that matches the case. While the original Hublot ruffled feathers in the early '80s by offering a precious metal watch on a rubber strap, hublot has expanded the scope here and the gold still manages to feel like the oddball option. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The movement in use for the 38 and 42mm sizings is the Hublot MHUB1110, which is based on the Sellita SW300-1 and as such is an automatic Swiss-made movement that ticks at 4 Hz and has 42 hours of power reserve. The 33mm Classic Fusion Originals use the HUB2913 quartz movement with a battery life of 3-5 years. In either spec, it's clear that Hulot is aware that this isn't a watch that someone is buying for the movement but rather for the style and statement of the design and its lineage as a watch that challenged the conventions surrounding rubber straps for luxury watches. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["69f10cde-9cbb-455b-9e68-fdee03b8d044"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Pricing ranges from $6,500 for the 33mm titanium Classic Fusion Original with the quartz movement all the way up to $24,100 for the solid yellow gold 42mm automatic. In the meaty middle, we find the 38mm versions at $7,900 for titanium, $8,500 in ceramic, and $20,500 for the yellow gold offering. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Of the three sizes, I suppose it's of little surprise that I rather prefer the 38mm and I'd imagine that as much as I like the idea of the solid gold option, I would opt for the lower cost and versatility of titanium. Also, while I wouldn't go as far as to call any of the Classic Fusion Originals inexpensive, I was surprised to see a four-figure price point for the titanium and Black Magic ceramic options.  </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4b38c71f-4995-4825-a0b4-74f14514b9a0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In terms of the execution, I think Hublot has done well here by mostly sticking with what was established by the original. At a glance, the new models appear very similar, but Hublot fans will notice a handset that is thicker than the original, larger crowns, a somewhat more squared-off lug shape, thicker bezels, the aforementioned white-on-black date wheel, and an updated bezel design with six screws rather than the original's twelve smaller screws. Very similar, sure, but not a one-to-one recreation. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>All told, I see it as a logical evolution of the Classic Fusion in a time for the watch industry that remains obsessed with original designs, anniversaries, and revivals. If anything, it's a couple of years later than we might have expected and, aside from the omission of the hour/minute markers and the less-is-more application of dial text, these new models are quite similar to what Hublot offers in the existing Classic Fusion line, including the 42, 38, 33mm sizing. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c1f811b1-a928-43e7-95eb-e4dc71cdfaa4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I don't see that as a bad thing at all, but rather, it confirms that a few small changes have created a watch that I would love to try on my own wrist and see with my own eyes (maybe at Watches and Wonders in a couple of months). Alongside some of the truly wild stuff that Hublot has announced for LVMH Watch Week, the Classic Fusion Original may feel downright plain, but as a production model with sizes for a wide variety of wrists, it might just be the kind of Hublot to win over some new fans for the brand, especially any self-proclaimed '80's guys. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Brand:</strong> Hublot<br><strong>Model:</strong> Classic Fusion Original <br><strong>Reference Number:</strong></p>\n\n<p><strong>Diameter:</strong> 42, 38, and 33mm<br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 10, 9.85, and 8.5mm, respectively (42, 38, 33mm)<br><strong>Case Material:</strong> Titanium, black ceramic, or yellow gold<br><strong>Dial Color:</strong> Black<br><strong>Indexes:</strong> Applied<br><strong>Water Resistance:</strong> 50 meters<br><strong>Strap/Bracelet: </strong>Black rubber strap</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cd058a70-0f3b-4af8-886c-193b8244575d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Caliber:</strong> Hublot HUB1110 Automatic (for 42 and 38mm), Hublot HUB2913 quartz for 33mm<br><strong>Functions:</strong> Hours minutes, seconds, and date<br><strong>Diameter:</strong> 25.6mm<br><strong>Power Reserve:</strong> ~42 hours<br><strong>Winding:</strong> Automatic <br><strong>Frequency:</strong> 28,800 vph<br><strong>Jewels:</strong> 25<br><strong>Additional Details: </strong>Base movement is the Sellita SW300-1, decorated and finished by Hublot</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8db8e9c3-96c1-403b-af60-503d2c262d05"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Price:</strong> <br>Titanium: $6,500 (33mm), $7,900 (38mm), $8,200 (42mm) <br>Black Magic: $7,300 (33mm), $8,500 (38mm), $10,000 (42mm) <br>Yellow Gold: $17,800 (33mm), $20,500 (38mm), $24,00 (42mm). <br><br><strong>Limited Edition: No</strong></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>For more information about Hublot watches, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hublot.com/en-us/" target=\"_blank\">click here</a>. Hublot is part of the LVMH group. Although LVMH Luxury Ventures is a minority investor in HODINKEE, we maintain complete editorial independence.</p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"},{"data":{"cta":"More from lvmh watch week here","url":"/articles/tag-heuers-aquaracer-solargraph-is-back-and-lighter-than-ever","icon":"#icon-white-note","image":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/76e71a8f-d979-4241-a1ca-37dc201bd9c8/Web2000px-01-WBP1180.BF0000.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12","title":"TAG Heuer's Aquaracer Solargraph Is Back And Lighter Than Ever","headline":"Article","icon_alt":"Article","image_alt":"TAG Heuer's Aquaracer Solargraph Is Back And Lighter Than Ever","article_type":"default"},"type":"Block::Recommendation"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Introducing: The Hublot Classic Fusion Original Limited Edition","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"ea16f360-26c2-4d19-9a30-2257d170f791","container_id":11775,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/b1b3866e-3def-4a36-82be-1fbdb8f87c25/hublot-classic-fusion-original-hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"the Hublot Classic Fusion Original","created_at":"2023-01-04T15:17:28.406-05:00","updated_at":"2023-01-09T10:35:52.748-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/b1b3866e-3def-4a36-82be-1fbdb8f87c25/hublot-classic-fusion-original-hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hublot-classic-fusion-original-goes-back-to-where-it-all-began","full_title":"Introducing: Hublot Classic Fusion Original Goes Back To Where It All Began","tags":["hublot","limited-edition","lvmh-watch-week-2023","classic-fusion-original"]},{"id":11777,"slug":"lvmh-watch-week-kicks-off-the-show-season-in-singapore","column_slug":"article","title":"LVMH Watch Week Kicks Off The Show Season In Singapore","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2023-01-09T10:00:14.011-05:00","created_at":"2023-01-05T11:41:42.172-05:00","updated_at":"2023-01-09T10:01:22.035-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Coming this week: new watches from Bulgari, Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith. And we'll have full coverage right here. </p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":26070,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"right_rail"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With the onset of a still very fresh new year, we also see the return of watch show season – and the first major event kicks off tomorrow in Singapore with <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.lvmh.com/news-documents/news/lvmh-hosts-fourth-edition-of-lvmh-watch-week-in-singapore-from-january-10-12//" target=\"_blank\">LVMH Watch Week 2023</a>. The event will include the year's first major releases from the four core LVMH watch brands – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.bulgari.com/en-us//" target=\"_blank\">Bulgari</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hublot.com/en-us/homepage/" target=\"_blank\">Hublot</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.tagheuer.com/us/en//" target=\"_blank\">Tag Heuer</a>, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.zenith-watches.com/en_us/" target=\"_blank\">Zenith</a> – and we'll be covering a wide variety of the new releases as they begin to drop tomorrow evening.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a53cce9a-67a8-412d-9a34-8ce5bcc18d7c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Coming a full two months ahead of Watches &amp; Wonders, LVMH Watch Week is an opportunity for the main maisons within LVMH to announce some big product without having to share the limelight with almost every other watch brand in the game.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ac7ec5fe-8abf-4e6b-99b8-780e9b859e93"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Last year saw the release of the funky <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/zeniths-defy-revival-a3642-vintage/" target=\"_blank\">Zenith Defy Revival A3642</a>, the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/zenith-defy-skyline-2022-time-only-el-primero/" target=\"_blank\">Defy Skyline</a>, the return to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tag-heuer-returns-to-form-say-hello-to-the-new-40mm-aquaracer-outdoors-live-pics-pricing/" target=\"_blank\">40mm for the Aquaracer line</a>, a new <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-return-of-the-tag-heuer-autavia-chronograph/" target=\"_blank\">Tag Heuer Autavia</a>, and a whole bunch more. Be sure to stay tuned to Hodinkee (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/hodinkee/?hl=en\%22 target=\"_blank\">and our Instagram</a>) so you don't miss any of the new releases being announced at LVMH Watch Week 2023, which runs from the 10th to the 12th of January.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>The HODINKEE Shop is an authorized retailer of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/zenith-brand/" target=\"_blank\">Zenith</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/tag-heuer-brand/" target=\"_blank\">Tag Heuer</a>, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/bulgari-brand/" target=\"_blank\">Bulgari</a>. <br><br>Zenith, Tag Heuer, Bulgaria, and Hublot are part of the LVMH group. Although LVMH Luxury Ventures is a minority investor in HODINKEE, we maintain complete editorial independence.</p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"When Is LVMH Watch Week 2023?","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":1,"slug":"article","name":"Article","description":"","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.918-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T16:49:00.996-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"7a0f7f23-c38f-49bf-ba99-ae4870556a35","container_id":11777,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/daa473b3-ac73-4a3c-9559-9fdae963cbe7/lvmh-watch-week-time-1.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2023-01-05T11:41:42.232-05:00","updated_at":"2023-01-05T12:30:10.281-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/daa473b3-ac73-4a3c-9559-9fdae963cbe7/lvmh-watch-week-time-1.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/lvmh-watch-week-kicks-off-the-show-season-in-singapore","full_title":"LVMH Watch Week Kicks Off The Show Season In Singapore","tags":["tag-heuer","zenith","hublot","bulgari","lvmh","lvmh-watch-week-2023"]}]}">