Omega watches</a>. Explore our entire collection of Speedmasters <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/speedmaster-collection?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=disclosure-box\%22>here.%22,%22product_ids%22:%22%22},%22type%22:%22Block::DisclosureBox%22}],%22migrated_content%22:true,%22meta_title%22:%22The Omega Speedmaster As It Was Always Intended","meta_description":"A classic movement in a nearly-bespoke modern watch.","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"b4134f8e-dcb4-4b92-b963-19ea1911596a","container_id":8536,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1603148761349-hcl430u05x8-9ae2f94f0164d42cc759d72b3d726959/_56A2366.jpg","width":2000,"height":1333,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2020-10-19T19:24:03.181-04:00","updated_at":"2022-01-07T15:44:28.808-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1603148761349-hcl430u05x8-9ae2f94f0164d42cc759d72b3d726959/_56A2366.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/omega-speedmaster-321-397mm-in-steel-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Omega Speedmaster 321, 39.7mm In Steel","tags":[]},{"id":8468,"slug":"iwc-portugieser-chronograph-review-a-week-on-the-wrist","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The IWC Portugieser Chronograph ","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2020-10-14T14:01:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2020-10-07T12:50:15.515-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T08:50:44.317-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>The less you do, the more you do.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6200319843001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":92190,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":"","apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":false,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of the more unique leading men in Hollywood's golden age was Robert Mitchum. You see, he didn't <i>act</i> in the traditional sense of the word. Rather, Mitchum was himself, which is exactly what audiences expected when they paid their hard-earned money for a ticket to see his films. He is on record for having once said, \"I kept the same suit for six years and the same dialogue. They just changed the title of the picture and the leading lady.\" Talk about self-awareness. But there is something to be said about the notion that the core of something (or someone, in Mitchum's case) does not need to change in order to persist. The title and the leading lady are extremely important aspects of a film, but if the star of the picture has the right stuff, well... just ride that wave.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["a08931f9-6185-428c-bedd-c24f419221a7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In the world of watches, there are a few examples which are emblematic of this idea. Think of the Rolex Submariner, the Omega Speedmaster, or even the AP Royal Oak. These watches <i>are</i> the movie stars. The IWC Portugieser Chronograph holds a similar station within the International Watch Company as those aforementioned models do to their respective brands. It is a foundational piece in the modern IWC collection, and it represents the idea that not all iconic watches need have been produced in the 1960s and '70s. The IWC Portugieser Chronograph <i>is</i> Robert Mitchum. It has a sense of style, a sense of identity, and only requires minor tweaks here and there over time, but the essence always remains. That's what people appreciate about it. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["429bf06d-0b77-4f09-9f90-7757cb291453"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is actually my second go-around spending time with this watch, having previously gone <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/iwc-portugieser-chronograph-with-in-house-caliber-69355-hands-on/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On with it in April</a>. Not much about my opinions have changed, but having now spent a week with it on my wrist, some of those opinions – or notions – have become more deeply entrenched in my psyche. During my week with this watch, I tried not to augment anything about my daily routine, just to see how the watch kept up – if it interfered in any way, and how (if at all) it improved anything I did. I am talking things as innocuous as brewing a pot of morning coffee, or the more active task of sitting down to play the guitar. It was my full intention to put this watch through its paces, but I will warn you – especially in these crazy times – I don't live the most extreme lifestyle. If you're hoping to hear stories about how this watch fares skydiving, or on the racetrack, you've come to the wrong place. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Late-20th-Century Design Heritage"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["be9dca67-c213-4b34-aa66-becf21b63fc8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The middle of the 20th century (read: mid-century) brought so much \"newness\" to the table, so much design innovation. So many things – watches in particular – produced today trace their roots to designs created during this time. IWC is one of the few brands which can really trace most of its current lineup to late-century (i.e. 1990's) design ideals. The Mark series was notably revived in this time, as well as the core of its pilot watch lineup – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/original-iwc-doppelchronograph-caliber-79230/" target=\"_blank\">the Dopplechronograph included</a>. It was in 1995 that IWC released a watch which would serve as the foundational design for the Portugieser Chronograph. That watch was the IWC Portugieser Rattrapante Ref. 3712, a split-seconds chronograph which was powered by a rattrapante movement developed <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-the-habring2-doppel-20-courtesy-of-the-man-who-inve/" target=\"_blank\">by Richard Habring</a> (and one that was later discontinued). The watch itself would also be discontinued before a revival in 2016. But in the intervening years, the Portugieser Chronograph took its place in the IWC lineup. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["83615bb0-fd68-4304-8c4d-2271cdce9e2f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>1998 saw the introduction of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph, a tilting pinion chronograph with applied numerals, a large – almost bezel-less – 41mm case, and a leather strap. Well, not much has changed in the 22 years since that release. In fact, in terms of aesthetics, the watch has been an absolute model of consistency. It actually takes guts to actively not change something as much as IWC did not change the Portugieser Chronograph in this time. The only other watch that I can think of in a similar vein is the Omega Speedmaster Professional, but there are practical reasons behind its stability – namely a lot of red tape associated with it keeping its NASA flight qualifications. Well, the IWC Portugieser Chronograph is no space watch, and has no restrictions leveled upon it to maintain its appearance. The watch just works, and IWC knows it, which is why it has remained the way it has for 22 years. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["65c04089-7543-4caf-9ec8-ee2b50f7c2a4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For the first 21 years of production, the watch was powered by the Valjoux/ETA 7750 movement. At some point, the supply of movements also came from Sellita. As these were not in-house calibers, they sat concealed behind a closed caseback. That notwithstanding, IWC is well known for the work it does on its ebauches, often adjusting and regulating non-in-house movements to great levels of accuracy and performance. In the years since the release of the Portugieser Chronograph, the watch has become arguably the most popular watch in the Portugieser lineup and can very well be considered an icon in its own right.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"How To Change Without Changing"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["f308b7f6-e922-4243-848a-3d0a2f154814"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In January of this year, IWC announced the release of an updated Portugieser Chronograph. I will admit, when I saw the photos, I was blown away. Literally nothing – at least at first blush – had changed. This was the same watch I had come to know, only there was a significant change under the hood: The brand new in-house caliber 69355. This is a column-wheel, vertical-clutch chronograph movement made by IWC, keeping with a recent trend by the brand to bring much of its movement making in-house. Consider this change the new title of the film in the Hollywood analogy referenced earlier. The new movement is the differentiator between this watch and the others which came before, but the overall design – unchanged – is the star. Just like Robert Mitchum, this watch remains true to form, save for one other thing – the leading lady. That, of course, would be the sapphire caseback. Whereas the watch sported a closed caseback for two decades, this new model got the full exposition treatment. I mean, if you have a new movement, why hide it?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As mentioned, very little has changed about the watch with the release of the updated movement, which is actually a really savvy move by IWC. If I were in the market for this watch, I would hate to see a new movement introduced in tandem with an overhaul of the design. In fact, I would want exactly what took place – a technical improvement without sacrificing a design that just <i>works</i>, for lack of a better word. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["34cfb4c2-42c1-4acf-86fc-fad92dd3fcee"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When I wrote my Hands-On piece with this watch, there was a commenter who questioned why IWC did not reduce the case diameter of the watch from 41mm with the introduction of the new movement. I actually got to talking with one of my colleagues about this (I won't name names). They made the analogy to me that, at least in IWC circles, the Portugieser Chronograph is essentially the brand's Submariner. Even the slightest of changes would have a major impact on those who have come to love the watch. Mind you, this conversation took place <i>prior</i> to Rolex announcing <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-submariner-ref-124060-41mm-new-release/" target=\"_blank\">the 41mm Submariner</a>, but you get the idea. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f9138cfa-6009-4061-a8d9-8f90298f2c1b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The new caliber 69355 is what many consider to be a classic movement size, which therefore can be deployed in a wide variety of watches. Even though the movement size technically affords IWC the ability to decrease the diameter of the case, any change to the size of the watch would fundamentally disrupt a design that has persisted for so many years. Another comment on the movement that I wish to address came from a commenter who said that, while the open caseback is a welcome addition, they found it to be somewhat like having an open caseback for the sake of having an open caseback – as if IWC wanted simply to \"tick that box.\" To that point, I believe you could say that about any watch, really. This is all very subjective stuff – at this level – especially when it comes to whether or not the level of finishing on a movement does anything for you. But I have to say, this is not a bad looking movement by <i>any</i> standard, and I enjoyed looking at it during my time with the watch. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["85631de0-5109-4a80-b8da-8a134ecfcf18"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Continuing with this, I also recall seeing a comment in the Hands-On on the topic of the bona fides of the movement itself. The comment was addressing the fact that the movement is based on another IWC chronograph caliber, which is in turn based on an ETA caliber. To this point, I would say that one would have to qualify what \"derived\" really means in this context. This watch has a different clutch system and skeletonized escape wheel, which was the result of IWC research and development. The new 69355 caliber possibly has the same regulator, but regulators are outsourced anyway – in-house or not. Moreover, different watchmakers have been taking each other's work as a jumping-off point for as long as watches have been made. There are only so many options and solutions, so, in reality, there is really no such thing as a completely in-house movement – people borrow from each other all the time, and it is all a part of the game. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When it comes to a watch like this – with a design and size that is known and expected – there is a certain amount of the wearer adapting to the watch, as opposed to it being the other way around. You buy this watch because you want <i>this</i> watch, and most of the time, you know what you're getting into. For those who do not, I will say that it manages to scratch two distinct itches: That of the sport chronograph, as well as the more \"dressy\" – stately – chronograph. There is a certain understated elegance and self-assuredness to the entire package of this watch that allows for a great deal of versatility in terms of wear. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["6313c75d-b491-4b31-b227-0dcf128fb771"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The case size, as mentioned, is 41mm, but a number alone does not tell the complete story. The watch effectively has no bezel at all. Given that the model I wore was the silver dial variant, the watch wears larger than the 41mm diameter would suggest as the silver dial (similar to a white-dial watch) gives off the illusion that the watch is much larger than it is. This size notwithstanding, I expected the piece to wear a bit bigger on wrist going in. There were no issues with the lugs hanging off the sides of my wrist, and the case laid flat and comfortably when worn. The overall thickness of the watch is about 13.1mm, which sounds tall but is virtually an imperceptible measurement when the watch is on. I did not for a moment consider this to be a thick or tall watch. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["17848419-fcbf-4d60-a8a3-4d81924c966e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As has been the case for about 22 years, the watch is affixed to a leather strap (although <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/iwc-portugieser-chronograph-with-stainless-steel-bracelet-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">recent updates have seen a change there as well</a>). The version I had the chance to wear came on a blue alligator leather strap, which matched the blue accents on the dial. The strap itself is attached to a double deployant clasp system, which is one of the few gripes I have with this piece. For me, a watch is part of my person – something I don't have to think about. Conversely, I take great enjoyment – at various intervals of my day – in taking off my watch, staring at it, engaging with the crown, etc. It is an object of affection, and I tend to be quite affectionate. A clasp should open and close – no need to reinvent the wheel. This clasp, being a double deployant, requires the opening of two segments in order to put the watch on, or take it off. Once the initial clasp segment is opened, it is actually not clear that a second segment needs to be undone as well (I recall spending about five minutes in a Rodin-type state trying to figure this out). Issues with the clasp function aside, it certainly keeps the watch secure to the wrist when closed, and everything wears comfortably. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["feb8ac3a-9b48-46e4-8050-19fb529abe1b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d3bf8999-ba6c-4ad9-b8b9-3de78a948b0c","39668ea5-9010-4c6c-b159-b442d389d656"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What more can be said about a dial design which has persisted and resisted change all these years? Well not much, but wearing something and experiencing it in the metal definitely brings a fresh perspective. The dial here is silver, with a textured gradient pattern and accompanying radial patterns in the sub-dials. A hallmark of the design of this watch is the applied set of numerals which adorn the dial. The style of the numerals themselves evokes a more classic era of watchmaking. In contrast to this classic ideal is the text applied to the right- and left-most sections of the dial surface. In a lot of ways, the motif embodied there is something more akin to mid-century design. The combination of both of these elements is unmistakably IWC, however. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Especially on this model, the idea of contrast is perpetuated through a number of elements, each in blue. There is a set of applied blue circular markings representing the minutes, which surround the dial along with the numerals. Every single one of the hands, including the leaf handset for hours and minutes, is also done in blue. The way the blue works off of the silver, and matches with the strap, creates a nice uniformity in the design of this watch overall.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["73ad694a-903a-4aa0-870f-e2e6684a4999"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Something which I came to appreciate more in person was the angled chapter ring configuration. Internal scales (meaning, not printed on an external bezel) often result in a shrinking of the surface area of the dial and therefore decrease the legibility of the important functions of the watch. Here, with the sloped configuration, there appears to be no space lost, and in turn, nothing feels overcrowded. There is ample room to breathe on this dial.</p>\n\n<p>Speaking of room to breathe, let's focus on the 12 and six applied numerals. Now, cut off numerals – or dial text – on a chronograph is nothing new. In fact, it is something which has been done in watchmaking, and watch design, for years and years. (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/why-cut-off-dial-numbers-exist-and-why-theyre-not-going-anywhere/" target=\"_blank\">It is almost ubiquitous in pocket watches</a>.) Here, however, I found this wasn't so much an obscuring of the numerals, as much as they appear to be sliced (note the gaps between the numerals and sub-dials). On the other hand, I understand the reason for this, given that it would be hard to overlay a sub-dial atop an applied numeral.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["d1bee5a4-4ba1-44d6-8aa4-d4bfc0c1b937"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I am not necessarily a chronograph guy <i>per se</i>, but each time I wear one, I get a ton of enjoyment out of engaging with the mechanism. Here is no exception, and the action of the pushers is crisp and satisfying. The great thing about a no-date chronograph is, even for a novice watch person, there is really little to no learning curve – and the functions are quite intuitive. As I said in the introduction, my life is not particularly exciting, or extreme, but I nonetheless found ways to put the chronograph to use in mundane day-to-day tasks – and the watch actually made them more enjoyable. If I were to make one comment about the movement, at least substantively, it would be that it is a tad bit loud. This is something I expect – namely the noise of the rotor turning with the movement of my wrist – from lower-priced watches, but it was definitely unexpected here. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3c7aad57-f71a-441b-a82f-bcf7d41f97a7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"right_rail"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>To be frank, this is a watch that, when you put it on, feels very personal. It has no pre-conceived narrative attached to it, and therefore, the story is yours to write. This idea allowed me a sense of freedom in the wearing experience, wherein I did not feel I needed to live up to race car drivers, astronauts, or other professionals who have far more important uses for a chronograph. I wore this watch on walks with my wife and puppy, while playing music, and while watching some of my favorite films. Given the watch's mixed aesthetic of sport and dress, I also did not feel compelled to match a specific attire with it. No matter how I dressed, it worked just fine.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Overall, on the wrist, and despite the size, the IWC Portugieser Chronograph wears very comfortably, especially on the leather strap. In fact, I find this silver and blue variant to be the most versatile within the lineup because it gives off a certain air of levity and fun, while the others (with gold accents for example) present as a bit more conservative. While wearing the watch, I would look down and immediately understand why this design has permeated the horological consciousness in such a profound way, and thereby lasted as long as it has. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e0ed6780-d71c-4eb8-8363-8efa71a43bd0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>By equipping the IWC Portugieser Chronograph with the new in-house caliber 69355, IWC moved this watch into a new category altogether. What's more, the brand did not increase the price by much with this change – which now sits at $7,950. There was a time when in-house chronographs were quite a rarity – but that is changing more and more each day. As it stands, there are quite a lot of watches ranging from about $4,000 to $10,000 offering a mixture of style, heritage, and in-house watchmaking which compete in the same category as the Portugieser Chronograph. Below, I have assembled a small representative sampling of some of those watches. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["e07421a7-da75-4b29-b112-a683942c680c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"IWC Chronograph Spitfire"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Yes, indeed – some \"in the family\" competition. Just last year, predating the movement change to the Portugieser Chronograph, IWC fitted the Chronograph Spitfire with its own in-house movement, the caliber 69830. While decidedly more sporty, with a direct vintage aesthetic, this is certainly a contender for those looking at the more tool-watch end of the spectrum. The Chronograph Spitfire carries the same 41mm diameter with a slightly thicker case, but gives you all of the in-house vertical-clutch chronograph goodness in a package just south of $6,000.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["95f73c09-5215-467c-804a-9bc40478f686"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Omega Speedmaster 'Silver Snoopy Award' 50th Anniversary"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I was always going to put a Speedmaster on this list, but I got lucky that this particular model was released when it was – if for no other reason than the fact that it is a competitively <i>blue</i> in-house chronograph. At 42mm in diameter, this is larger than the Portugieser, and it is a manual wind. But don't let that get in the way of good competition. This is the METAS certified 3861 movement, boasting industry-leading accuracy. Sure, this watch is a bit out of the price range at $9,600, but c'mon... Snoopy flies around the Moon!</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["d55ce741-71cc-4dd4-a237-d1dba92b2423"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Zenith Chronomaster El Primero"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If we are talking about classic, <i>mostly</i> unchanged chronograph designs, then the Zenith El Primero has to be in the conversation. Of course, its heritage dates back to the 1960s. With this watch, we have the famed in-house El Primero movement, the signature design flourishes of red and blue, as well as the iconic Zenith star on the chronograph seconds hand. This is a smaller watch compared to the Portugieser at 38mm, but with it, you get a classically sized watch and a package that sells for $7,700 – which puts this watch squarely in the ballpark. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["9d555e03-494d-4ea6-966e-abb7886c70d3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"TAG Heuer Carrera 160 Years Limited Edition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Carrera 160 Years Limited Edition is something of an homage piece, so it doesn't represent the same modern design ideal that the Portugieser Chronograph does, but it offers the same versatile wearability and styling, LE notwithstanding. Sure, it has faux patina and an intentionally racing-inspired heritage, but it also has a silver dial. At 39mm, the Carrera 160 Years Limited Edition is right in the mix in terms of size and also boasts the in-house caliber 02 movement. This is a watch that might not be around forever, but at the price of $6,450, it is certainly a competitive entrant into the conversation here. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Concluding Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So, what is old is made new again. I am glad I got to spend as much time as I did with the IWC Portugieser Chronograph, because I learned a thing or two about the power of good design, and the sort of inexplicability behind the things which take on a certain iconic status. Without a doubt, the Portugieser Chronograph is something of an icon, especially in the pantheon of IWC. There are many out there who recall the day they bought this watch anywhere from 15 to 20 years ago, and still wear it to this day. It is a watch which serves as a differentiator from the more obvious sport watch choices out there, and for many, it represents buying that first nice watch. There are not many classics which came to prominence in the 21st century, and so this watch should, in many ways, be applauded for that.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["37668433-29ac-4577-b6c2-44f514ce4a34"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Our friend Robert Mitchum – among the many salacious things he was known to rattle off – said, \"I've still got the same attitude I had when I started. I haven't changed anything but my underwear.\" I find the IWC Portugieser Chronograph to embody this very sentiment, strange as it is. The watch has a very specific sort of attitude, one which has carried it through the better part of two decades without fail. The underwear? Well, let's just equate that to the movement and move along. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9daf9b46-f900-4c75-a9f8-d9a1bf4f3f80"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In short, anyone who is looking to get something versatile, that represents precision timekeeping, from a heritage brand, is going to really appreciate what IWC has done here. IWC has kept the design the same but made the actual watch empirically better, and that's not <i>nothing</i>. Moreover, they kept that package under $8,000 in the process. Typically, I am a steel-sports-watch-on-a-bracelet kind of guy, but there is something about this watch which fills that same void. This is a watch that is fully realized and game for anything – well, except swimming (please don't take it swimming). It has a certain Goldilocks \"just right\" charm to it that makes it fit into any environment you need it to. You can change the title, cast a new leading lady, and even buy new underwear, but the IWC Portugieser Chronograph endures. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>For more on the IWC Portuguese Chronograph, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.iwc.com/us/en/home.html/" target=\"_blank\"><i>visit IWC online.</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Photos: Kasia Milton</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>Visit Hodinkee affiliate Crown & Caliber to shop pre-owned <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.crownandcaliber.com/collections/iwc-watches?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=disclosure-box\%22 target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">IWC</a> models</p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"8a5a6b0d-6776-4d05-95bf-444ba30e5698","container_id":8468,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1602089404933-u6h8qge2y2n-cf1e1f6dd2c1c414f2b21fb057dd661b/IWC_Port_Chrono_Hero.jpg","width":2200,"height":1238,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2020-10-07T12:50:15.574-04:00","updated_at":"2020-10-07T12:50:15.574-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1602089404933-u6h8qge2y2n-cf1e1f6dd2c1c414f2b21fb057dd661b/IWC_Port_Chrono_Hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/iwc-portugieser-chronograph-review-a-week-on-the-wrist","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The IWC Portugieser Chronograph ","tags":[]},{"id":8301,"slug":"seiko-prospex-spb143-a-week-on-the-wrist-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Seiko Prospex SPB143 ","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2020-08-25T13:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2020-08-20T14:01:04.065-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T08:50:44.942-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>In which a common tool tries something a bit more refined. </p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6184468026001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":394511,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Perhaps more than any other brand, the road through one's Seiko experience can often make one feel like a value-obsessed horological Goldilocks. For many of us, the first bowl of porridge comes early in our development of watch enthusiasm, with a Seiko 5, or maybe an SKX007, or if you’re like me, an SKX779 \"Black Monster\" (seen glowing below). And, while Goldilocks needed only contend with a trio of possibly perfect sustenance, from that first spoonful of Seiko steel, you're introduced to a table with hundreds of options. Big, small, bold, subtle, modern, new, old, old-looking, JDM, limited editions, titanium, steel, kinetic, solar, and more. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["83475d43-f34c-4c1b-94b8-4c34712ef278"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The mind reels to organize this ecosystem into understandable classes and families. As Seiko Folk, we trade Latin names for reference numbers, common names for an endless array of increasingly indistinct nicknames. When a friend texts an image of a large and imposing puck of a watch on his wrist with the caption reading \"<i>SBBN013 :)\"</i>, it is incumbent upon you to translate and reply in due form, \"<i>Oh, nice Darth Tuna\"</i> (or similar). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["33636c97-1f99-43bd-a385-7c2a42043df1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While all of watch appreciation (and certainly collecting) is based in an evolving personal application of trial and error, few brands welcome the budding enthusiast with the offer of more raw experience for their budget than Seiko. If you have $500 to spend, you could literally spend it a hundred different ways and, with each selection, you have ensured the heady buzz of cracking open that simple Seiko box to a new experience. In turn, with each new experience, we get a piece of data that can be applied to the next time we feel the need to pull the handle on this specific slot machine.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Our taste develops and, hopefully, becomes more individual and tailored to our own wrist. Is a Darth Tuna a rad watch? Yes. Is it much too large for my wrist? Also, yes. Put that spoon down, try another bowl. Some will be too hot, some too cold, but when it comes to accessible daily wear sports watches, once you've tried a few dozen bowls, you likely want the one that is<i> just right. </i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["86c1994a-63a2-41f2-b93e-98d2307e8148"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When Seiko announced a quartet of new vintage-inspired Prospex models into the SPB range, I'll admit that my hopes were very high. As part of the brand's 55th anniversary, these new models were loosely inspired by the brand's first dive watch, the 62MAS. I say \"loosely\" because Seiko made a much more direct reissue of the 62MAS in 2017's SLA017 (shown above). Considerably less expensive than the limited edition SLA017, the new SPB14X models used the 62MAS inspiration to offer a straightforward sports dive watch with a skin-diver silhouette and the hopes of a toolish yet easy-wearing presence with a dash of vintage effect.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Seiko SPB"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Slotted above more entry-level fare from Seiko 5s, the SKXs, the SRPs (including varietals of As, Bs, Cs, and Ds), and even SUN line, the SPB family is not limited to dive watches, but does offer an upper tier of the Prospex lineup that sits below that of the premium SLA product. Some of you are confused, but I promise that the reference numbers don't really matter (more on that in a moment), the point is just that the SPB line exists as a sort of midpoint between Seiko's much-loved entry-level products and their much more expensive top-of-the-line models. When considering SPB dive watches, the models typically have finer finishing and details and come with an upgraded movement and (generally) the option of an upgraded bracelet. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["29e45f4f-f265-442b-af67-42ed98364340"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Historically, this line sits between $800 and $1,200 and draws aesthetic inspiration from other well-known Seiko models (both old and new). Previous popular examples include the new \"Sumo\" models (like the SPB101/103) and the SPB077/079 (above) which were introduced alongside the previously-mentioned SLA017 in 2017.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For a brand that is often praised for its sub-$500 offerings, the SPB line (among others) has had the tough job of trying to justify a more expensive offering while not directly competing with Seiko's top-spec models (let alone those from Grand Seiko). For 2020, and with the new SPB14X models, I think they finally have a strong case. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The SPB143 (AKA The SBDC101)"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["42815d3e-e736-46a0-9bbc-3ccff7d6c235"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The key to that case is sizing and the attempt to take the Seiko dive watch charm to a higher level while maintaining as much value as possible. Unlike past recent SPB offerings that routinely featured cases sized in excess of 44mm, this new line measures just 40.5mm wide, 13.7mm thick, and 46.5mm lug-to-lug. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As described <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/seiko-prospex-spb143-spb145-spb147-and-spb149-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">in my original post</a>, the most basic and simple of the four is the one featured in this review, the SPB143 with a grey dial and a bracelet. Those wanting a bit more variety can opt for the SPB145 (brown/green dial), the SPB147 (brown dial with gilt accents), or the SPB149, which is a limited edition of 5,500 units and has a radiant blue dial with gold accents for the seconds hand and a bit of the dial text. Given my personal distaste for gilt, or indeed brown accents on most watches, it was an easy choice for me to go with the standard SPB143 for this review. While there isn’t a loser in the lot, I have a deep fondness for Seiko at its most simple.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["41639ad2-949d-4eb9-9a01-38a22df35f5a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["11a98471-8dbc-4e8e-b4da-506f972d7c81"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["24a342bf-f649-4885-9745-a21fb2510a7c","c505d43c-9f01-4cb1-b276-add1af5d09ea"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p> On that thought, given that we have four references from launch, does the SPB14X need a nickname? Due to the year, the vintage design, and the connection to the 62MAS, I was thinking we could just call all four the \"20MAS.\" Let me know your ideas in the comments. Back to the show.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9ac74147-8636-4b6b-a9c1-ce599472e9e6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Take that excellent sizing and add to it drilled lugs, a sapphire crystal, a large guard-less crown, a solid caseback, and a case treated to Seiko's Dia-Shield hardening, and you have a balanced and handsome design that wears well on any strap I tried while offering strong legibility, equally strong lume, and really no weakness on wrist. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Fit and finish are also great, and better than what I've come to expect from less expensive Seiko offerings. The bezel is excellent. Smooth, easy to use and, while there is a hint of wiggle due to its 120-click design, it has no slop and manages to feel very mechanical thanks to a strong fit with the case and an excellent grip. Being Seiko, and knowing that at least a few of you will ask, the bezel aligns very well with the minute markings – but not perfectly. Many of you who have been down the Seiko path know that their bezels don’t often perfectly align with the chapter rings or the dial markings. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8166fdb0-3214-45f7-bf03-79fac38bba98"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While on my example, I'd say the bezel insert is off by <i>maybe</i> a quarter of click, the delta between the markers and the dial (there is no chapter ring on the SPB143) is much less noticeable in person due to the considerable depth between the inner bezel edge and the dial. For photos, this effect is reversed as the depth is somewhat compressed by the perspective. So while on wrist, I found the misalignment to be all but invisible, after hours of working on the photos in this post, the slight offset combined with that depth means it's very hard to show the true variance in the alignment. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>All told, this is my only complaint with the watch, and it may be something I can change in the future, and for me, it's not a deal-breaker. That said, I do think that Seiko needs to sort this out and that a watch which nails so many other details should also nail this, too. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["98efef0c-d7f1-419e-801a-c99addbe00b4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Perhaps more interestingly, the bezel uses a black-colored and Dia-Shield-coated stainless steel insert. While many other brands, and even Seiko, often opt for inexpensive aluminum or somewhat more costly ceramic inserts, the SPB sports steel. I've seen reports quoting other materials, but have double (triple, even) checked with Seiko U.S. and Seiko Japan, with both confirming the bezel insert is stainless steel.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I've worn mine without a mind for abuse over the past month or so, and the bezel has yet to show any wear. That said, it's stainless steel, and even with a surface hardening like Dia-Shield, it's going to scratch. For my tastes, while I will hate the first few scratches, once the bezel is well-scratched, I think it will look amazing, and I hope the black coloring will aid in ample contrast after a few years of use. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5b1f1efb-8edd-4740-89e5-e0f569ac825d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Beyond its material, the execution of the insert matches that of the bezel action, with a lovely font and fully engraved scale. There is a lume pip at zero as you'd expect, and you can see a circular brushed finish within the black coloring. Additionally, I also really love that Seiko chose to differentiate the SPB14X models from other 62MAS re-issues by opting for a thicker bezel. When matched with the skin-diver case shape and the guard-less crown, I think it looks incredible and adds presence without adding weight or problematic proportion. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Inside that '60s-esque case, we find the latest iteration of Seiko's 6R35, which represents the top model in the 6R range and has also been used in a wide range of Prospex, Alpinist, and Presage models. This latest model offers a strong 70-hour power reserve and a rate of 3 Hz, and the 6R35 has hacking, hand-winding, magnetic resistance to 4800 A/m, and a date display at three. It's a toolish dive watch – all it needs is a reliable and somewhat accurate automatic movement, and the 6R35 gets the job done. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Another side note for those who listen to my podcast, The Grey NATO. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://soundcloud.com/thegreynato/the-grey-nato-118-on-paper-on-wrist-the-seiko-spb143/" target=\"_blank\">I had mentioned that my SPB143</a> was having trouble with how long it took to fully align the date wheel, sometimes remaining slightly off-center well into the afternoon. As it turns out, a tiny bit of rotational pressure on the crown while in the quick date setting was enough to properly align the display and the issue has not returned.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["b2bc3f0d-02e8-45ff-ac4e-0ee3dfa88d92","0b064930-1e60-4f50-bc13-0494e5290f2f"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["1a2c575a-1946-45b3-a39b-ac8ace2c8a43"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Perhaps more so than any other single element, the dial really separates this model from any other Seiko diver I've owned in the past. The sunburst finish shimmers between light grey and black as the applied markers balance that effect with white metal surrounds. The date is simple but effective and certainly looks appropriate for the overall design. Finally, the hands are excellent, especially compared to some of the more bold designs seen on past SPB divers. In sunlight, the dial is a bright shade of grey, and the slightly domed crystal glows along its perimeter. It feels like a proper tool Seiko, but at a more refined level. In low light, the lume speaks for itself. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Bracelet"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While I am not generally a bracelet guy, I know that most people buying a more expensive Seiko will in turn expect a more solid bracelet, and there is a $200 premium for an SBP143 or SPB145 over the rubber-only SPB147. With that in mind, I think Seiko has delivered a totally acceptable bracelet. It's a solid steel bracelet with sturdy pin-and-collar sizing, solid end links, a steel clasp with micro adjust, and even a tiny folding wetsuit extension (just like on my SKX779!). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a69b0716-0aaa-4249-bc32-8353fc3befb4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The SPB143's case and lug shape are not exactly ideal for a bracelet, but Seiko has opted for a simple and rugged solid end link and a link shape that tapers towards the clasp. The end result is not fancy, but it does wear well and feels solid without overpowering the watch. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2fd73b45-0ffd-4d6f-a36c-d41a094fa999"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For my $200, if I could have had a rubber strap on the SPB143, that's what I would have bought. I don't mind having the bracelet, but I likely won't wear it. Especially as the 143 is nothing short of a strap monster. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I took the liberty of including an extra handful of wrist shots for this review as I think the SPB143's strap versatility is something that makes it much more special to me and that it might also matter to you. While I may have stuck my metaphorical flag in a hill of grey NATOs, I love being able to change straps on a whim – what else am I supposed to do on Zoom calls, pay attention? </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["96bf4144-633c-41d0-8c17-7fb9498769cc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>From rubber to leather, NATO or sharkmesh, I couldn’t find a strap that didn't look great on the SBP143. This is due to a mix of the case shape (which is far from unique to Seiko), the tonal grey dial, and the short drilled lugs. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Strap changes are easy, grey goes with everything, and there is something eternal about that H-shaped skin-diver-style case. Some case shapes are made for bracelets (like Rolex), and some just melt into your strap of choice. I have an old '60s Silvana skin-diver and, while it's only 36mm wide, it does the same trick as the SPB143. The end result is the versatility to bend what is a rather low-key and simple watch in whatever direction you're feeling for the day. And, should you get it wrong, the drilled lugs make it easy to change your mind. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["adc25ffe-4602-4778-9777-3ca131e056c0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6b342c77-c9ff-4096-8e9d-2bd85fa9b64e","50071e3a-c358-41ec-bd98-20e2764f7284"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Once you've picked your preferred strap, the SPB143 is lovely on wrist. It's not too big nor too small, and it looks a bit chunky while never feeling overweight. It is both comfortable and toolish at the same time, and from my desk at home to some light snorkeling in a Toronto-area lake, it does what any good Seiko does. Which is – whatever <i>you</i> want. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Like I said in the included video, I think this is the Seiko for guys and gals that have been down a rabbit hole or two. You've had a grip of Seikos and their competition, and you're ready to pay a bit more for the right one. Admittedly, that may be more of what this watch is to me, but look at it this way: Is this a Seiko I would recommend to someone just getting into watches or dive watches? No, likely not, as I think it's important for enthusiasts to work up to various price points, especially with a massive and varied brand like Seiko. That said, after having owned a couple of dozen Seikos and plenty of the brand's competition – is this my favorite Seiko of any I've owned or reviewed? Yes.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cc58bb66-05f1-49a1-adfb-c8e443fd36f2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Like almost any other watch, Seiko, while certainly beloved, does not exist in a vacuum. And in continuing to offer watches that crack into the four-digit price point, they open themselves up to more competition than you might find in the sub $500 space. Looking at ~40mm automatic divers that are well under $2,000, here are a handful of options that should be on your radar before you spend $1,000-$1,500 on the SPB14X of your choosing. That said, I couldn't include everything, so let me know in the comments as to how you might cross-shop the SPB14X. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["16e8e85b-5b2a-49bc-869b-24a7d343ab51"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Mido Ocean Star Tribute</strong></p>\n\n<p>While I haven’t yet had the opportunity to see this diver in person, it certainly looks great on paper. For ~$1,080 bucks, you get a 40.5mm x 13.4mm steel case, 200m water resistance, a sapphire crystal, and Mido's version of ETA’s C07.621 automatic movement with 80 hours of power reserve and a day-date display. It's a handsome, well-spec'd dive watch that doesn’t overplay the \"tribute\" aspect. While I don't know the lug-to-lug measurement, and I prefer the looks of the Seiko (and don't have any straps to fit the 21mm lug width), this is really solid competition. Nicely done, Mido. </p>\n\n<p><i>CHF 990, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.midowatches.com/en/swiss-watches-collections/sport-watch-ocean-star/" target=\"_blank\"><i>mido-watches.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["29ab8152-5157-4eef-b26d-aca17f3061d6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Doxa SUB 200</strong></p>\n\n<p>A bit thicker, wider, and longer than the SPB14X, the SUB 200 also keeps the pricing <i>just</i> in the sub-$1,000 range. At $990, you get an ETA 2824 and the choice of six colors, many of which are much more exciting than those offered by the Seiko (at least until more versions come available, yellow gold anyone?). For me, the SPB143's size, brighter lume, and general shape outpace the color options of the Doxa – but this <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-doxa-sub-200-professional-value-proposition/" target=\"_blank\">remains a great choice</a> if you've got $1,000 and a need for some extra color in your life. </p>\n\n<p><i>$990, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://doxawatches.com/collections/sub-200/" target=\"_blank\"><i>doxawatches.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["804d14b4-ec28-48ba-a196-4917f73640a4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Zodiac Super Sea Wolf</strong></p>\n\n<p>Similar in many ways to the Doxa, if the stoic nature of the SPB143 isn't for you, the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf starts around $1,100 and offers a wide collection of colors and spec. Looking at the vintage-inspired Z09201, we find a 39.5mm case that is 13mm thick with a distinctive dial design and timekeeping provided by an STP 1-11 automatic movement. If you want an extra-hit of vintage styling, this (or really any) Sea Wolf should fit the bill. Compared to the Seiko, I'm a sucker for the SPB14X's case shape and black bezel, though I give extra points to the Zodiac for its jubilee-style bracelet. </p>\n\n<p><i>$1,295, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.zodiacwatches.com/collections/super-sea-wolf/products/super-sea-wolf-53-skin-zo9201/" target=\"_blank\"><i>zodiacwatches.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["cd4f1612-4a06-42b7-9723-f74e987cc7e6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Sinn 104 St Sa</strong></p>\n\n<p>Thankfully, while the starting point of the lovely U50 puts it at the better part of double the price of the Seiko, Sinn does offer their model 104 in several versions starting around $1,300. While not a traditional dive watch layout (countdown bezel vs elapsed time), the 104 is 41mm wide, 11.5mm thick, 46.5mm lug-to-lug, and has 200 meters of water resistance and a Swiss automatic movement. If you want something at a similar price and size, the 104 isn't going to let you down, and they even offer it in a very handsome white-dial version and with several strap and bracelet options.</p>\n\n<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sinn.de/en/Modell/104_St_Sa_I_W.htm/" target=\"_blank\"><i>$1,560, sinn.de</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["22fd6009-08a2-42b9-bfb1-def2545bbb71"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Longines Hydroconquest</strong></p>\n\n<p>Representing a huge departure in terms of style, the 41mm Hydroconquest still fits the aforementioned filter given its price and 41mm sizing. No information is given in terms of thickness nor lug-to-lug, but it's a distinctive 300-meter water-resistant diver from a well-known brand, and it comes on a bracelet, is powered by a Swiss automatic movement, and can be had in a blue or a black dial. In this case, it's just a matter of which I feel looks better for my wrist, and that would definitely be the Seiko.</p>\n\n<p><i>$1550, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.longines.com/watches/hydroconquest/l3-742-4-96-6/" target=\"_blank\"><i>longines.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["f7f57bb5-ff5f-45e1-bf57-8192f6a1fa25"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Seiko Prospex SPB151/153 - aka. \"The Captain Willard\" $1,300/$1,100</strong></p>\n\n<p>You had to have seen this coming – and I'm sure at least a couple of you hit the comments to mention the new Willard long before reading this far. Indeed, the SPB14X was not the only heat to be added to the SPB range this year, as Seiko also launched a re-issue of their vintage 6105 diver in the SPB151 and SPB153. Starting at $1,100 for the green-dial version on a rubber strap, the 151/153 are 42.7mm wide, a little over 15mm thick, and 46mm lug-to-lug. While definitely larger, the 151's case shape should manage the extra steel, and these SPB siblings rock the same movement and the same 200 meters of water resistance (and drilled lugs!). While I love the look of the 151 and the 153, the 143's size is just too good on my wrist (and quite uncommon to Seiko). I know there's a fight brewing here, and you'll find me on team 20MAS, even if that means I'll need to run away from Cole.</p>\n\n<p><i>$1,100/$1,300, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.seikowatches.com/us-en/products/prospex/spb153/" target=\"_blank\"><i>seikowatches.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Closing Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If the Goldilocks analogy felt somewhat too whimsical, allow me another attempt. Think of your home toolbox (or tool area, if you're lucky). It's full of many great tools, right? From those chunky orange pencils to a measuring tape, a hammer, and maybe a drill, or something really fun like a Sawzall. The thing is, nine times out of 10, when I go to my toolbox, I'm just grabbing a simple screwdriver, or a small level, or a light set of wire-cutters. In the tool spirit of the dive watch, sometimes we want or need the veritable sledgehammer of a Darth Tuna, but generally, I just want to make sure the lights turn on and that I don't hang a frame in an annoyingly askew manner. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["79f51739-dc9f-4d42-b001-39e41b6dab1e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Likewise, the SPB143 is that everyday tool that doesn't let any of its design push it out of contention for my wrist. It's light, versatile, capable, and generally speaking, more than enough watch for anything I get up to. Is it a bit bland? Yeah, maybe a bit. But I also think it’s elegant in a way that an SKX007 or SRP777 can't compare. To my eyes, this is distilled sporty Seiko – an everyday tool that doesn't cost a fortune but still manages to check all of the boxes. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5efae59a-880d-48aa-af27-c82f106c669c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If they had made this watch back when I took delivery of my SKX779, I would have balked at the price and added it to my wishlist as I basked in the greenish glow of my $200 Monster. Now, well over a decade later, I have become an expert in what I need and expect from a watch. Within that narrow but rigorously informed position, the SPB143 feels perfect, the extra cost aligns with my expectations, and for my wrist, I figure it's the best watch in the entire lineup. It is a tool <i>just right. </i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"935a23f3-93e4-4328-9950-60902939fcbf","container_id":8301,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1597945170488-2g82o9s3xhs-f299a2d6271025911d0dd6a087f0797e/Seiko-spb143-sbdc101-hero-1.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2020-08-20T14:01:04.577-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T08:41:16.480-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1597945170488-2g82o9s3xhs-f299a2d6271025911d0dd6a087f0797e/Seiko-spb143-sbdc101-hero-1.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/seiko-prospex-spb143-a-week-on-the-wrist-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Seiko Prospex SPB143 ","tags":[]},{"id":7684,"slug":"omega-seamaster-diver-300m-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2020-04-13T13:30:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2020-04-05T23:54:30.187-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T08:50:45.104-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>White is the new blue.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6149047729001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":271248,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":"PREROLL-TEST","apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, in one form or another, has been around since 1993. But of all the various iterations over the decades, the most recent example with a polished ceramic dial, ceramic bezel, and Co-Axial caliber 8800 may be the one that's finally found its footing.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's a watch that feels like it took 26 years to get right. Past designs teetered back and forth between a luxury watch and a tool watch over the years, and it was an absolute commercial success, but it never had a unanimous vote from the enthusiast community. If it weren't for the on-screen endorsement by Pierce Brosnan – the suavest Bond of them all – would the watch have hung around in Omega's lineup for as long as it did? Since its inception, the design has had an equal number of fans and detractors. The skeleton hands, helium escape valve at 10 o'clock, and scalloped bezel have forced a \"love-it-or-hate-it\" approach. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8a716cbf-3b63-4079-843c-1c9232ee686e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's a good thing the design did stick around as long as it has. The advent of modern material science in conjunction with the advancements in co-axial escapement and anti-magnetism technology have made this model – released in 2019 – the best it's ever been. The fundamental design elements that make the watch polarizing are still there, but even the folks who bemoan them would be hard-pressed to disagree that there's a ton of value in this execution. We're used to seeing it in the iconic blue hue, but I think it's the high-contrast white-dialed version that's re-igniting the excitement over the Seamaster Diver 300M.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I've owned a \"Bond Seamaster\" for 14 years now, so I've had plenty of time to get acquainted with the idiosyncrasies of the overall design. But when I spent a week with the new white-dialed 2019 release, it actually didn't feel familiar at all. It felt like I had to start back at square one with the watch. The changes Omega's made have truly transformed the watch and forced me to see it in an entirely new light. It was like coming home to the house you grew up in after years away and discovering that you no longer know where everything is. I kept glancing at three o'clock for date. Nope. It's at six o'clock now, just like the spatula that's no longer in the kitchen drawer you thought it was in. The fonts have changed, like the layout of your childhood bedroom. It's a guest room now. It's all vaguely familiar, but it takes some serious getting used to. There's a natural tendency to immediately reject change, but when it comes to this iteration of the Seamaster Diver 300M, I think the old adage \"change is a good thing,\" certainly holds true. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["50295580-58ed-4950-b841-ee961cbb2d3b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"In The Shadow Of A Modern Classic"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In the beginning, there was indeed a variant of the Seamaster Professional 300M with a white dial, but it wasn't nearly as pretty as its smooth blue sibling, ref. 2541.80. The white-dialed Seamaster, ref. 2542.20.00, couldn't be the darling of the collection even if it wanted to be. Like most things in life, it's hard to get it right on the first try. So how did the Seamaster Professional 300M become an icon?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The moment in the spotlight came two years after its release, when it appeared in the 1995 hit James Bond film, <i>Goldeneye</i>. According to Jason Heaton's 2014 look at the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-week-on-the-wrist-omega-seamaster-300-master-co-axial/" target=\"_blank\">Omega Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial</a> (it's an entirely different watch, and the nomenclature is confusing, but decoding the myriad of executions and references and special editions is part of Omega's charm), \"costume designer Lindy Hemming chose an Omega Seamaster, then the blue-dialed version with the skeletonized sword hands. Hemming chose the Seamaster over other options largely based on the brand’s history with the British Navy, to which Bond had belonged. According to Hemming, 'I had known contemporaries when I was in my twenties who were military and naval […] who all swore by their Omegas.'\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It matched Pierce Brosnan's Bond perfectly, in the sense that it was pretty enough to consistently charm us, and only tough when it needed to be. The case came polished and brushed in a way that made it less tool-like and more flashy to match Bond's businessman-like looks and diplomatic demeanor. The bracelet on both references that Bond wore – a quartz (2541.80.00) and an automatic (2531.80.00) – featured two rows of links that were also highly polished and incredibly comfortable. As the watch became part of the Bond identity, sales soared. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["95f5807a-b073-4dd9-a2ad-aa2657f46b6c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The blue Seamaster Professional 300M became an instant classic because of Bond. And in true Omega fashion, its popularity spawned dozens of iterations in different metals, dial colors, and complications. The 1990s and 2000s saw more than a handful of models emerge from the simple design that Bond popularized: There was a chronograph in titanium, a GMT with sword hands on a Speedmaster bracelet, a Japan-only midsize model with a red dial, a solid-gold version with a dark navy dial, a version in solid white gold produced for America's Cup, a version designed for freediving dubbed the \"Apnea,\" a handful of 007 editions, a version in stainless and gold, another in titanium and rose gold. There are <i>many</i> more. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"right_rail"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>We could go further down the hole of Seamaster Professional 300M Divers, but I think we have to narrow the scope to the sub-set of white dials in the Seamaster Professional 300M and Seamaster Diver 300M family to compare apples to apples. What I found is that not only is this version the most attractive white-dialed model Omega has ever produced in the range, but to me, it even eclipses the iconic blue-dialed models in terms of beauty. There's something about the monochromatic theme that comes to life in this iteration in a way that no other model has captured.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>To fully appreciate the balance of this current design, let's take a look at earlier white dial executions in the Seamaster Diver and Professional 300M family. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["b3809302-b989-41e2-9d9c-a12e02e12c39"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Ref. 2532.20"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The original Bond Seamaster, wave dial and all, just in white. There's an obvious lack of contrast with the white dial muting the waves, and the polished bezel insert slightly clashing with the white dial to amount to a design that didn't quite have the mass appeal that its blue sibling had. Additionally, this generation used printed markers as opposed to the applied markers of the later generations. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["99094870-ce79-4059-a4e5-280e7a8ff604"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Ref. 2538.20.00 'Great White'"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Visually, the addition of the GMT complication was an opportunity to introduce more color. The red-tipped seconds hand and the GMT hand appeared in red, with a stainless steel bezel insert wearing a bold 24-hour scale. While the case and overall aesthetic are shared with the Diver, the GMT doesn't have a helium escape valve (which at least in some folks' view might make it a more pure tool watch, actually) and features sword hands instead of skeleton hands. The general design is shared with the reference ref. 2254.50.00 and 2255.80, albeit with the GMT complication. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["ad4faf87-f3fb-4d7e-bda8-c31de3068848"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Seamaster Diver 300m 'Vancouver 2010' 212.30.41.20.04.001"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A 36mm and 41mm version were produced in quantities of 2,010 examples each, featuring the Co-Axial caliber 2500. During this era, the wave pattern was absent from the dial. It was delivered to retailers in 2009 and featured the Olympic ring symbol on the seconds hand, along with the Vancouver 2010 insignia on the caseback in lieu of the hippocampus. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["f6f79a83-13d4-4ad1-8573-0b0dee92de57"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":" Seamaster 300M Chronometer 2598.20.00"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Instead of red, this execution featuring a chronograph complication utilized orange as an accent color against a white wave dial. The inclusion of the caliber 1164 (Valjoux/ETA 7750 base) forced the steel case thickness to swell to 16mm. High-visibility orange was also used in the blue titanium version. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["15afb1e5-9aa3-4e4e-b1a2-41a4fd8c1843"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Seamaster 300M Co-Axial Commander's Watch"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This \"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/omega-launches-the-omega-seamaster-diver-300m-commanders-watch-limited-edition/" target=\"_blank\">Commander's Watch</a>\" is a limited edition of 7,007 pieces that paid tribute to Bond's naval heritage. The skeleton hands are blued, and the entirely red seconds hand features the \"007\" gun logo. The ceramic bezel is produced in navy blue with a 15-minute countdown section in red. This watch is from the era when the wave pattern was absent, and instead, the dial is polished enamel. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A Seamaster Diver 300 For Today"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>To celebrate the 25th anniversary of the Seamaster, Omega released no less than 14 brand new Seamasters in 2019. That caught our collective attention, but it was the white dial variant that stole the show. It's important to note that the 2019 releases are not a limited edition of any sort. They're standard production models. This means that theoretically, it's possible to walk into any Omega boutique or AD, plop down $4,900, and walk out with the pictured watch. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fbfb8c31-9ca9-44ca-84b5-9dfba9ebad26"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are three decades of experimentation in the current design, and at least one design detail from every iteration of white Seamaster 300M has made it into the newest version in one way or another. There is an argument to be made that the basic design has <i>generally</i> remained unchanged, however. And even though the watch feels much different, visually speaking, it's true. There's a certain continuity that's present throughout the line, except that design changes are a bit more distinct, as opposed to the small permutations of the Rolex Submariner that are only visible to the highly trained eye. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Case & Strap"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The original Bond Seamaster was easy to wear. With such a \"skinny\" case at 11.5mm, it just wore like a charm. The curious bit about the case was that Omega managed to get 300 meters of water resistance out of a case that was as thin as many dress watches. Usually, the tool watch apologist will claim that the case needs to be as tall as a 10 story building in order to achieve a considerable amount of water resistance. The reference 2531.80, which I've been wearing for well over a decade, achieves this with a reasonably thin case. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The reference in question has grown taller by 2mm. It's now 13.5mm thick. But it's grown roughly in scale with the diameter of the watch as well. The newest version is now 42mm, up from 41mm. The weight and size are noticeable on the wrist. To anyone who has had experience with Seamaster 300M Divers of yore, the upsized case will be immediately noticeable. But at the same time, that instills a sort of toughness in the watch. There's a strange sense of confidence that comes from feeling the watch on your wrist. It pushes it closer to the tool end of the spectrum. Never before would I have described the Seamaster Diver 300M as \"beefy,\" but now might be the time. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7931aca9-fd08-4bcf-bb67-d9de4b80037d","634b0957-8297-49c6-876e-7745cc12ad98"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The helium escape valve is now a conical shape, almost like a volcano with a large caldera, as opposed to a duplicate of the standard crown. This HEV is manually operated, meaning the user must unscrew it in order for it to be activated, unlike the more popular design of an HEV that operates automatically. If the HEV is left unscrewed, the watch is still water resistant to 50m. It's important to note, however, that the HEV has nothing to do with water resistance. It's intended to be used <i>only</i> in helium-rich decompression chamber environments in which commercial divers spend long amounts of time. Without the valve, the risk of a crystal popping out due to positive internal pressure exists. The valve is meant to relieve that pressure. In short, the HEV is only useful to commercial divers and therefore is often bemoaned as an extra feature that's completely superfluous to anyone whose job description does not include time in a hyperbaric chamber.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But without the HEV, how would Bond have used so much of the wonderful spy technology in his Seamaster? </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The HEV has been part of the design since the beginning, and one of the hallmarks of a good aesthetic design is consistency. From a utility perspective, it introduces a whole host of potential problems. What if someone forgets to screw down the HEV? They've just lost 250M of water resistance. It's another hole in the case that needs a gasket, another hole in the case for water to get in. Additionally, it could potentially snag on diving equipment, and it also doesn't have any sort of crown guards protecting it. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But alas, it's not going anywhere. It's become a part of the design that must be considered \"quirky\" to be appreciated. The more visual elements that distinguish a watch, the more solidified its identity becomes. And in that sense, the HEV adds character. Most folks that are part of the target market for this watch will never see the inside of a decompression chamber anyway. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d2eb8770-ddf4-465c-ad69-39da2dbb85be"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The rubber strap is comfortable. Along with the beefed-up case, it feels like a proper dive watch on rubber. It uses a buckle as opposed to a clasp, which has historically been paired with the rubber strap on the Seamaster range. The strap features two parallel protrusions that mimic the row of links that characterize the bracelet. The ends of the strap are curved and meet the case to form a perfect seal. No strap gap here. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Dial & Bezel"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is where the watch shines. Omega has never managed to quite find the best way to present a white dial in the Seamaster 300M range until this watch, in my opinion. Instead of enamel, it's highly polished ceramic that serves as a perfect canvas for a laser-etched wave pattern. The wave has returned, and in a most glorious fashion. Like the dimensions of the watch, the lines are thicker and bolder. They give the appearance that they're deep grooves in the case, making it not so subtle anymore. The \"wave\" on the early dials could be described as a texture, where this is more of a bold pattern. Subtle it is not, but by leaning into the design, they've managed to make it cool and modern again. It no longer screams '90s. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9c94d03b-0c38-47a6-8d6a-80edf420d540"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Luckily, the designers at Omega didn't etch the \"ZRO2\" logo as deep as the waves, and even though it's present on the dial just south of the center, it isn't noticeable in most conditions. Before buying a watch, during the research phase, I'll identify what material it is. And I'll remember what it is. Chances are I don't need a reminder. I have a feeling labeling the materials on a watch will age in the same way the badges displaying \"fuel injected\" on early cars that used this technology have. If we want to discuss superfluous design inclusions, let's take a look at labeling materials on the watch instead of the instruction manual. There's an argument to be made about labeling the case, as certain materials can create irritation for some wearers. I can't think of a good case for labeling the dial. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["322fc2ef-2f2e-4ab2-a167-c354e3974cc6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But that's overlooked when we look at just how well it presents. It's handsome and equally legible. The sheen from the polishing is hard to decode. On one hand, polished surfaces tend to dress up a watch and add a little more pizazz to the design, but there's also the idea that the polished ceramic really comes across as a material-forward design choice. It almost feels space-age and excites the sort of wonder that I felt the first time I saw the heat resistant black tiles on the space shuttle. You sort of wonder, \"what exactly is it made of?\" I guess this is the only case where the ZRO2 comes in handy. It's the symbol for zirconium oxide. The Space Shuttle tiles are made from silica. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The markers are raised and have much more dimensionality than earlier designs. This also increases legibility, which can be questionable on white dials when the lume plots are so close in color to white. Luckily, the legibility on this watch is fantastic due to the height of the applied markers and the contrast created by the surrounds. Red is again employed as the accent color, and it appears on the tip of the seconds hand as well as the \"Seamaster\" text.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The killer new looks are just the icing on the cake, but the soul of the watch comes from the caliber 8800 inside. The platform has utilized a number of movements over the years, and every time a new movement is introduced, it's significantly technically superior to the last. It started with the ETA-base 1120, then moved to the Co-Axial caliber 2500, and now the caliber 8800. While the watch has retained a constant visual language, inside it's been getting better and better over time. Even within the current range of Omega calibers, the 8800 is near the top of the range. To start with, it features a co-axial escapement, but that technology has been in the watch for some time now. The 8800 brings some improvements over former co-axial movements, like a free-sprung balance with silicon balance spring. It's also anti-magnetic to at least 15,000 gauss. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c7e04058-37e0-42b9-99a9-c98338386a00"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>On top of the technical prowess, the movement is a looker, and it's framed through a display caseback. Again the display back pushes the watch towards the dressy side of the spectrum, but given the movement's good looks, even purists might reconsider the notion that a display back on a diver is a cardinal sin. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["709c2bc6-8db6-48fc-addf-40078a495c1d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Tudor Pelagos"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Ceramic, a proprietary movement, and an HEV. This is a serious contender, especially coming in at $4,575. In this case, it all comes down to looks and your preference for titanium vs. steel. The polished ceramic dial of the Seamaster Diver 300M makes the watch, but it comes at a premium of just less than $500. The Pelagos can't pull dressed-up duties in the same way the Seamaster can, either. One could argue that the Black Bay might be an apt comparison in this regard, but the absence of ceramic makes it a tough comparison.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["1a24fb6c-b8b5-41b3-ab94-19e83b65589d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Seamaster 300"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This modern interpretation of a '60s Omega favorite was introduced in 2014. At $6,800, it slots in above the Seamaster 300M, but feature-wise, it plays in the same field. The Diver 300M has something the 300 does not, however – a modern, original identity. It isn't an old design that was jump-started to cater to vintage trends; instead, it's been iterated on over the past 25 years. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["738d129a-0c70-4df4-87e7-75630aa8a12c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Doxa Sub 300T"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>1200 meters of water resistance, time and date, an ETA 2824 that comes from Omega's parent company, The Swatch Group. Spec-wise, the Doxa stacks right up and comes in at well under the price of the Omega. It's $1,890 on a bracelet. But where the Doxa departs from the Seamaster is in the ability to dress it up. The Doxa has always been a die-hard tool watch, but it just doesn't have the ability to dress up like the Seamaster does. And we love it for that very reason.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["921d3521-9d4c-4d66-a0a8-759bfeb7a96c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Rolex Submariner 116610LN"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"alignment":"right_rail"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The new generation of Seamasters have been nicknamed \"The Sub Killer\" by the internet and social media hive mind. But I think it undermines the legacy and character of each of these watches to take current market circumstances into consideration. It <i>is</i> a Sub Killer in the sense that this watch steals sales due to the substitution effect. But that also implies that buyers are indeed <i>substituting</i> this watch to satiate the desire for a Submariner, when that isn't entirely the case. Of course, this will happen to an extent, but we have to be careful not to pigeonhole. We often see it with Tudor – in this case, a Pelagos – another watch to which we're comparing the Seamaster. \"You settled for a Tudor because you couldn't find a Sub\" is what you might read in comments. However, it just simply isn't the case most of the time. There are plenty of people who want a Submariner, and there are plenty of people who appreciate the legacy of the Seamaster as well. </p>\n\n<p>Both models have a Bond tie-in. They're similar in terms of specs, and they generally have the same overall tool watch design (although the Sea-Dweller might be a better comparison on account of the HEV). In almost every aspect on paper, they're easy to compare: a ceramic bezel, 300 meters of water resistance, stainless steel case and bracelet, a stellar movement. But I think we should make a point of not assigning any sort of attribute to the Seamaster based on the scarcity of the Submariner. That being said, the Seamaster on a bracelet is $5,200 at retail and the comparable Submariner is $8,950. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you've been a longtime fan of the Seamaster Diver/Professional 300M line, then this is most likely the watch you've been waiting for. It has everything that makes the Seamaster 300M retain such a strong identity, but it just <i>feels</i> different on the wrist. It feels new. Part of the reason why the Seamaster has earned such a following is that it's a popular one-watch solution. It's the kind of watch that you buy and then wear the hell out of, because that's what it's so good at. This one is even better equipped for the same sort of duty as an everyday watch that splits the difference between dressy and tool. It has a sense of duality that's finally come into its own, 25 years later. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["5968a2ac-fab8-43a9-ae8e-98a28f654ab4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As for me, I won't be upgrading. But that's not because it's a watch that I wouldn't own, it's simply that my own Seamaster was a graduation gift. But after wearing the spiffy new Seamaster for a week, I realized the watch did something which I hadn't even considered. It got me excited in the same sort of way my own Seamaster did many years ago. Familiar, but just better. Wearing the new Seamaster reminded me of the early days of wearing my <i>old</i> Seamaster. Back then, I had visions of Bond when strapping it on, but putting on the new white Seamaster called to mind visions of all the things I'd done in life with my old one. That got me excited for all the folks who are just starting their own story with the most modern reference. Except for them, the bezel won't pick up as many scratches, the accuracy is much improved, and they won't suffer from the effects of magnetism on the watch. If experience is an accurate indicator, I can't say the same of the wearer, however. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>The Omega Seamaster 300M, Ref. 210.32.42.20.04.001: case, 42mm x 13.7mm, stainless steel, 300-meter water resistant. Ceramic dial with applied markers coated with Super-LumiNova; skeletonized hands with lume as well. Movement, Omega Co-Axial caliber 8800, 55-hour power reserve; co-axial escapement, METAS-certified Master Chronometer caliber, antimagnetic to at least 15,000 gauss. Rubber strap, stainless steel buckle. Price, $4,900 on the strap. See the entire collection </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watches/seamaster/diver-300-m/gents-collection/product/" target=\"_blank\"><i>at Omegawatches.com.</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"25fb9d6b-d46c-4522-9079-7157cb9d4adc","container_id":7684,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1586258283322-w2fr1vxhnat-d10e7e20fb0cdef264a052b4ecf6fc57/01-17-2020042516by9.jpg","width":6720,"height":3780,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2020-04-05T23:54:30.243-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T08:41:42.337-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1586258283322-w2fr1vxhnat-d10e7e20fb0cdef264a052b4ecf6fc57/01-17-2020042516by9.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/omega-seamaster-diver-300m-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M","tags":[]},{"id":7603,"slug":"the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2020-03-19T13:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2020-03-18T11:51:44.559-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T08:50:45.333-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>A picture's worth a thousand words, but a week wearing a watch is priceless.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6142868016001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":106904,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-lange-odysseus/" target=\"_blank\">was released last October</a>, which feels, now, in March of 2020, like a million years ago. The Odysseus was the first full production stainless steel watch from Lange, which prior to its launch confined itself almost exclusively to precious metal timepieces. Sure, there were very occasional releases of some steel watches, but they were insider's watches with a vengeance – Lange did not go out of its way to announce their existence and, to this day, there is still no official confirmation from the company on the actual number made (although certainly, reasonable figures are fairly common knowledge among Lange enthusiasts and collectors).</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For makers of luxury watches, steel was, historically, a bit of a sideline. When I first began traveling to Switzerland and visiting watch factories many years ago, I remember one industry lifer saying to me, \"You know, when I was a kid, if someone was being driven in a limousine, the guy in the back was wearing gold, and it was a Patek, and the guy in the front was wearing steel, and it was a Rolex.\" Steel was very occasionally used by top-tier <i>haute horlogerie </i>firms such as Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin, but it was unusual. These firms made fine watches designed for wealthy clients who wanted a Swiss watch that expressed all the conservative values of high-end Swiss watchmaking. As a rule, this meant gold, gold, platinum, and more gold. Steel was a utilitarian material – appreciated for its technical qualities but certainly not loved for its intrinsic beauty, and generally, it was considered beneath the dignity of a fine watchmaking house to clothe its timepieces in it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["99f85b19-f938-4ada-aa73-bfe62bde50df"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>All this changed in 1972. The watch industry was already experiencing considerable turmoil thanks to the introduction of quartz watches. On Christmas Day in 1969, Seiko launched the Astron, and both analog and digital quartz watches began to follow in rapid succession, including the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-hamilton-pulsar-psr-introducing-live-pics-and-pricing/" target=\"_blank\">LED-dial Pulsar</a>, which was first shown to the public on Johnny Carson's <i>Tonight Show</i> in 1970. At Baselworld 1972, however, Audemars Piguet showed the Royal Oak. Its public debut was not without irony – the complex case was very difficult to machine in stainless steel, so the prototype shown was white gold. Audemars Piguet's now-retired museum director, Martin Wehrli, was there and once told me, \"Everyone looked at the watch in the booth and they said, 'congratulations!' Then they would walk around the corner and say, 'they'll be out of business in six months.'\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Obviously, the dire predictions proved unfounded, and with the launch of the Nautilus, from Patek, in 1976, the luxury stainless steel sports watch became a permanent part of the modern horological landscape. However, when A. Lange & Söhne launched its first post-German-reunification collection in 1994, a luxury watch company (and Lange clearly, from the outset, intended to compete point-for-point against the best Switzerland had to offer) was still a company that made primarily precious metal watches. The idea of presenting a steel model as a regular production piece was, at the time, antithetical to the old-school vision of luxury watchmaking. While Lange pioneered both revolutionary designs and its own very idiosyncratic take on high-end watch finishing, it still adhered to the notion that luxury in watchmaking was mostly a precious metal party.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>However, as the 20th century came to an end and the 21st began, I think it gradually became clear to Lange that to be too doctrinaire about sticking almost exclusively with precious metals meant missing some interesting opportunities, both commercial and aesthetic. The result of many years' deliberation is the Odysseus. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a92cb073-4109-4176-82bf-b8ad8504d549"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Odysseus, as those of you with classical inclinations will know, is Ulysses, the Greek commander and veteran of the Trojan War who took twenty years to come home. (I have always thought it a black mark against his character that he spent a good chunk of that time canoodling with Circe when he knew perfectly well that Mrs. Odysseus was waiting back in Ithaka, but that's a rant for another day.) The development of the Odysseus watch didn't take twenty years, but it was a multi-year process. For a company so strongly identified with very formal precious metal watches to take this step was not only out of the ordinary, it had the potential to seem out of character. The folks at Lange obviously put a lot of thought into making something that would clearly be a Lange watch – instantly identifiable as one, in fact – while at the same time breaking new ground.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pictures Vs. Reality"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When the Odysseus launched last year, we were able to get a sample into the office for a few hours to shoot it for the Introducing post, and I already felt, at that point, that I would have to be prepared to revise my initial impressions. The press photos were quite solid technically, but there were elements to the design about which I felt very uncertain. In person, however, the watch made a very different impression.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I was frankly anxious before actually seeing it. I have been in love with the watches made by A. Lange & Söhne for many years. I can remember reading about them on Timezone.com and ThePurists.com long before ever actually seeing one in person, and, as with Grand Seiko, it's a company in which I can't help but feel a considerable personal investment. Their watches have always seemed special to me – partly, I think, because they're not part of the small group of centuries-old Swiss brands, but also because without sacrificing the virtues of classical watchmaking, they managed to reinvent the design vocabulary of the wristwatch and produce timepieces of extremely high quality as well. I wanted the Odysseus to be a winner, and I was afraid, from the pictures, that it wouldn't be. This is no fault to the Lange press release, but obviously a picture is no substitute for hands-on experience. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["6a8de67d-9678-41f1-9fb2-84f8dfeca63b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I've had experiences in which actually seeing the watch in the metal both confirmed and refuted initial first impressions. The first impression in the metal in this case was pretty different from the image. I still wasn't entirely convinced, but I was very intrigued, and so were a lot of Lange fans and HODINKEE readers; the Introducing story <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-lange-odysseus/" target=\"_blank\">generated hundreds of comments</a>. More than anything else, though, the experience made me want to spend more time with the watch ... which, in the event, I finally did.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Second Time Around"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Having the watch back in the office for A Week On The Wrist only deepened my feeling that this watch will definitely grow on you given a chance. Handling it is an exercise in the tactile experience of quality, which is pretty much what you expect from Lange. Horological writer (among other things) Walt Odets, who basically invented the whole genre of the online technical watch review single-handedly on Timezone.com in the late 1990s and early 2000s, wrote about how <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.timezone.com/2002/09/16/purely-personal-musings-on-a-lange-saxonia//" target=\"_blank\"><i>substantial </i>Lange watches felt to him</a> – as if one Saxonia had as much gold in it as ten Calatravas. When I first saw Lange watches in person, in the early 2000s, I had an identical impression. That impression, however, was very much tied up, albeit subliminally, with the notion that preciousness was the exclusive domain of precious metals – the Royal Oak and Nautilus notwithstanding.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["5ab96710-6f42-416f-b21f-df51151ad57c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is all by way of saying that to my pleasant surprise, the Odysseus exuded the same indefinable but definite quality of density as well – of being a thing of substance and permanence in the world, a monument, in a way, to itself, and also to watchmaking. I hadn't expected that from any watch in stainless steel. Both the Nautilus and the Royal Oak have their unique qualities as well (if there is any watch that has the ability to refract light from polished steel like a brilliant-cut diamond, it's the Royal Oak), but this quality of somber, sober, reassuring seriousness that's been part of watchmaking at Lange since it got started again in the '90s was one I would not have expected from something not made of gold or platinum. And somehow, there it was – sitting in my hand with all the quiet self-assurance you could expect from any precious metal Lange Timepiece.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["71016bc6-64e3-4249-b05d-fd33737833f4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Putting the watch on was also an unexpected experience. Generally speaking, wearing a Lange watch is not an overtly sensuous pleasure – you have, it's true, a sense of the presence on your wrist of something substantial, but you are not, as it were, seduced by the physicality of the watch per se. The Odysseus, on the other hand, with its beautifully engineered adjustable clasp and very flexible five-link bracelet, <i>is </i>a genuine sensuous pleasure to put on and wear. When I was a kid, my father had one of the most excessively grand garments I have ever seen in my life – it was a cloak, from Russia I think (how it came to him I will never know and I would give my eyeteeth to find out), made of wolfskin. I can remember putting it over my shoulders as a child and feeling an overwhelming sense of luxurious weight as it settled around me – in its own way, the bracelet of the Odysseus does the same thing. It fits closely and extremely comfortably, and it is heavy enough to hold its own against the watch head and distribute the mass of the watch evenly around the wrist. It's an almost serpentine sensation, as if you had a young anaconda coiled around your arm.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Textures And Colors"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Lange watches in my experience have a certain uniformity of quality which I have not found in timepieces from other luxury watch companies. There is no Lange watch I've ever held and worn, from the simplest Saxonia Thin 37mm all the way up to the Grand Complication, that felt perfunctory. Instead, Lange watches have always felt especially thoughtful to me; they have a considered quality which is much of what makes them so pleasurable to wear.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["47ddadd2-57df-425a-b5d9-8892362b4205"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The dial, dial furniture, and hands of the Odysseus draw very much from the typical Lange playbook, although this is probably going to be the most lume we'll see on a Lange watch in a while (the company has made very creative use of luminous material before, in watches like the Lange 1 Luminous and Zeitwerk Luminous). As a watchmaker part of whose basic spirit is a no-nonsense devotion to clarity of expression, you expect Lange watches in general to perform the basic task of conveying the information they have to convey with ease and rapidity, and the Odysseus is no exception.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["f9ff4144-af86-4c1b-9fed-d4b9b23f8baa"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Beyond that, the Odysseus gives you lots to look at but in an unobtrusive way. The Nautilus and the Royal Oak have both always seemed to me to want to dazzle you a little – neither watch overdoes it, mind you, but there is an overt attempt to charm; sort of like the smile an Olympic gymnast flashes the judges at the end of a floor routine. The Odysseus has its own charms but they exist a bit more as a background to the experience of the watch as a whole. The dial textures and typical-for-Lange rather Teutonic typefaces, the open tail of the seconds hand – these are not vying with each other for attention nor clamoring for yours. Instead, they exist to make your day more pleasurable should you need them, rather like the well-trained staff of some great country house – capable of consistently faultless execution as a matter of course. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["76fad49e-8729-4c12-ada9-e7988a46f5ef","152679b5-dc95-4f1d-8ff5-a5b4fb6c1d32"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This extends to the operation of the watch as well. The two pushers for adjusting the big day and date displays don't look like pushers at all, but rather appear to be a continuation of the lines of the bracelet (which they also are) and part of the design of the case. That they are functional as well as decorative is one of the small delights of the Odysseus – it's sort of like discovering that turning a decorative vase in a wall sconce opens a secret door. They are enjoyable enough to use that I think owners will find themselves looking forward to months with less than 31 days in them – not just a nice consolation for not having a perpetual calendar, but a real pleasure in their own right.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fc81c9d0-044f-4499-86b2-27da10038b9d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The case and bracelet, once the watch is donned, continue to emphasize this feeling of aristocracy. The watch felt to me very ready to be a part of daily life, but it does encourage you to perhaps mind your Ps and Qs sartorially a bit more. Yes, this is a watch that I think clearly signals a desire to be more versatile than some of Lange's classic round precious metal watches, but at the same time, it partakes enough of Lange's overall sense of formality that you rather want to measure up as well. It is certainly a watch you can wear casually, but I think it is also a watch that encourages you to wear it thoughtfully.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["927b95a1-aa25-486c-8442-2c219e209314"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As time went by during the week, the various elements of the watch which I'd initially worried might not cohere seemed to play more and more in harmony with each other. Of course, what was really changing was not the watch, but rather, my perception of the watch; I was beginning to see it less with new eyes, and perhaps more as the folks who had designed it meant it to be seen. One of the biggest questions I had was about the use of a seconds subdial on a sports watch – after all, a center seconds hand is more legible and more in character for a sports watch if you are going to have a running seconds at all (the first Royal Oak notably dispensed with a center seconds, in the name of both flatness and visual clarity). However, as an element of a Lange watch, I think it works well in the Odysseus. Lange watches have oodles of charm, but it's a charm that arises from a very specific identity, deeply rooted in the impression created by the intersection of its design language with its build quality. Had they tried to tone that quirkiness down in the Odysseus, I think they would have come up with something perhaps more immediately appealing, but with less of its own character.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Lange Caliber L 155.1 Datomatic"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A word on the movement. A. Lange & Söhne is a company that has, in many respects, been all about its movements. Over the years, it has produced not only many mechanically ingenious mechanisms, but also many, many very beautiful ones. In fact, for sheer consistent beauty in movement architecture and finishing, I think they have few real competitors. A big part of the joy of being a Lange owner has always been the semi-secret pleasure of knowing what a genuinely dazzling experience you could have just by taking off your watch, turning it over, at looking at the secret world hidden away inside the case. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f50786d5-7a5a-4347-91d3-fd3ef1f533c2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The caliber L 155.1 Datomatic was developed specifically for the Odysseus, and it was intended to be not only a vehicle for Lange's signature high-end finishing, but also a robust self-winding movement that offers all the toughness and convenience you would expect from a modern mechanical sports watch movement. It's as handsome as you might expect for a Lange movement, but it is not an exercise in visual pyrotechnics. This is not to say it's not beautifully finished (and intelligently engineered for accuracy and long term rate stability, with a free-sprung adjustable mass, 28,800 vph balance and a 50-hour power reserve) – it is. But the overall experience of the watch seemed to me more rooted in the execution of the watch overall. During the time I had a Datograph on loan from Lange many years ago, I felt that I was taking the watch off every five minutes to ogle the movement (which, by the way, I still think is arguably the most beautiful chronograph movement ever made). But with the Odysseus, the movement experientially is a little bit more of a background player. It is, however, still an essential section of the orchestra, and the watch would not be nearly as interesting were the movement not a Lange caliber, with all that that implies. The caliber L 155.1 Datomatic may be a supporting player rather than a diva, but it is no less essential for the overall impact of the watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Steel And Luxury"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Odysseus is a watch which takes time to reveal its character. After a week of living with it, it left me with some interesting (to me, and I hope to you) thoughts about what it means to try to make a so-called luxury steel watch these days.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you're a long-time Lange fan, as I am, you have some hurdles to jump over. I think people's expectations were probably quite different before the watch came out, but the general sense I have had from talking to Lange collectors over the years is that there was a desire for something rather simple – perhaps a steel Datograph on a bracelet or a round watch in a steel case with a grains-of-rice bracelet. Certainly, both of those would have been commercially successful (if Lange ever wants to print money, all it has to do is release a steel Datograph at a price reasonably under the gold and platinum models, and it can laugh all the way to <i>die Bank.</i>) </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["07f85432-c1fb-4bf7-9047-0523c443d2a1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Instead, they did something much more interesting: Create a new design language for a watch case, dial, and bracelet which, while not entirely new in all their particulars, are new in their presence in the same watch. Steel, we noted earlier, is not a material which in the watch industry was historically associated with luxury. To the extent that it is, it is a material made to give a luxury impression through complexity of faceting and finish. The Odysseus, however, eschews the obviously bright, reflective surfaces that are the stock in trade of many luxury steel sports watches for a quieter presence, which nonetheless depends on the specific nature of steel as a material. It feels, on the one hand, like a tool – one solidly built and impeccably engineered, for the telling of time; that is its characteristically Germanic nature. But it is also, and clearly, more than that. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8c55af5c-d6d2-4afb-9097-0290906d3315"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The wristwatch is one of the very few objects left which has inherited a largely abandoned notion of machines. When clockwork devices began to be produced – watches, clocks, and related objects – there was no distinction made between functionality and beauty. The apotheosis of this perspective is probably the movement of the Harrison H4 marine chronometer, which is as lavishly engraved as any pure <i>objet d'art, </i>but that view has been passed down as an accepted part of high-quality craftsmanship in watchmaking ever since. The Odysseus is a manifestation of this perspective. It is a machine, and a tool, before it is anything else, like any watch. But it also demonstrates that to be a useful object is not diametrically opposed to the achievement of beauty – and that, in fact, it can give rise to a kind of beauty all its own.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["4449f7a1-0351-4b9b-8bdc-26fe4991d6fa"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>The A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus: case, stainless steel, 40.50mm x 11.10mm; 120 meters water resistant, with screw-down crown and sapphire crystals front and back. Integrated pusher mechanism for the big day and big date displays flanking and enclosing the crown. Dial, brass, multi-level, with applied gold markers filled with luminous material; hands, white gold with lume. Movement, new Lange in-house caliber L 155.1 Datomatic, unidirectional winding with platinum oscillating mass. Adjusted to five positions; freesprung adjustable mass-type balance with fine adjustment for beat error; hand-engraved balance bridge. 312 parts total, including 99 for the date mechanisms; dimensions, 32.9mm x 6.2mm. Bracelet, stainless steel, with fine adjustment mechanism for the length. Price, $28,800. For more information,</i> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.alange-soehne.com/en/odysseus/" target=\"_blank\"><i>visit Lange online.</i></a> <i>Images, Tiffany Wade; video and editing, Greyson Korhonen.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>Visit Hodinkee affiliate Crown & Caliber to shop pre-owned <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.crownandcaliber.com/collections/a-lange-sohne-watches?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=disclosure-box\%22 target=\"_blank\">A. Lange & Söhne</a> models.</p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"ffbd1731-d02b-4d26-9d32-4a66ef5e7ae2","container_id":7603,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1584627893259-6y49n3pr273-7bcb97c6e755ec6a20582b976d420618/01-27-2020050416by9.jpg","width":6720,"height":3781,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2020-03-18T11:51:44.866-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T08:42:05.907-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1584627893259-6y49n3pr273-7bcb97c6e755ec6a20582b976d420618/01-27-2020050416by9.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus","tags":[]},{"id":7459,"slug":"rolex-daytona-ref-116500ln-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Rolex Daytona Ref. 116500LN","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2020-02-13T13:44:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2020-02-03T09:59:08.359-05:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T08:50:45.547-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>Is there a great watch under all the hype, or is the Daytona all sizzle and no steak?</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6132268108001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":265450,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona represents many different things to many different people, but one of the most common reactions to the watch is frustration, at least if you're talking about the steel-on-steel reference 116500LN. How this came to be is a story that goes back decades, all the way to the year 1963, when the first Cosmograph chronograph was introduced. The first Cosmograph, the ref. 6239, wasn't a hit straight out of the gate for Rolex – in fact, it sold sluggishly at first. Despite the fact that chronographs were, during the 1960s, becoming an increasingly important category of watches for a company to have in its portfolio, the Cosmograph was, if not an ugly duckling among swans, certainly not the belle of the ball that it is today.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Over the decades, the watch has changed, both very much and in some respects not at all. There is a clear design continuity between the ref. 6239 and the latest models. One of the most reliable traits of Rolex as a company is the degree to which that continuity exists between much of their current catalog and many watches from the company's past. However, in the 57 years between the launch of the 6239 and the writing of this story, the watch has undergone a tremendous technical evolution as well, making the new version of the Daytona the most advanced chronograph Rolex has ever produced – by a considerable margin.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["db317c1b-04b7-49e3-b0de-2aad93928173"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Daytona today is surrounded by an almost impenetrably dense mystique. It's so in demand that buying one from an authorized retail requires either a very long-standing relationship or an enormous amount of patience (or both, depending on who you are) and buying a pre-owned model is prohibitively expensive for many for whom this would be, at normal retail prices, a tolerable expenditure. That it is notoriously difficult to obtain one would just by itself be enough to make enthusiasts feel a fascination not experienced for watches more easily obtained – it is after all a truism that nothing excites desire like being told you can't have something. But there is also the collectibility of vintage Rolex Daytona watches. Anyone just getting interested in vintage watches nowadays soon finds out that, unless you have extremely deep pockets, collecting vintage Cosmograph Daytonas is out of the question at this point. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What this means is that for anyone putting on a Daytona for the first time, it is very difficult to see the watch for all the hype. You don't so much see a stainless steel chronograph from Switzerland, as you see a watch whose notoriety and desirability, both as a collectible and as a piece of virtually unobtainable luxury watchmaking, have become so widely known that it has transcended its category to become a bona-fide global cultural phenomenon – something you can say about few other watches, if any.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a4f969a5-8b5f-4f54-be45-9c2a54bd3b51"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>How, therefore, did the Daytona come to be what it is today, and how can the evolution of the watch help explain its popularity? And, most importantly, is it possible to experience the Daytona not as a hype-magnet, but as a watch? That's what I was hoping to figure out when I wore one for A Week On The Wrist. While we have done A Week On The Wrist with a steel-on-steel Daytona in the past – the article from Paul Boutros, from 2012, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-vintage-watch-nerds-critical-dissection-of-the-rolex-daytona-past-to-present-part-1-3/" target=\"_blank\">remains a reference-grade read</a> that will set the gold standard for AWOTW coverage for the foreseeable future – it has now been eight years since HODINKEE published that story. And with a lot of water under the bridge horologically speaking, we decided to look at the latest version of the purist's Daytona: the steel-on-steel ref. 116500LN.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Long Road To Fame"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["8e32bb94-4321-4556-a3a6-5f1b801a1a15"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>William Shakespeare wrote that some are born great, some achieve greatness, and some have greatness thrust upon them. The former was certainly not the case for the Daytona. Its predecessor, the 6238, was produced in fairly small numbers (for Rolex) and there is little about it to indicate that it would eventually find itself at the beginning of a lineage that would include some of the most desired, expensive, and hard-to-find watches of all time. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["eba5d050-dcfe-4830-9e0c-bc75aa6cf290"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Aside from the Rolex coronet there is little to immediately distinguish the 6238 from many of its contemporaries. The watch used the Valjoux 72, a very widely used hand-wound chronograph movement, which found its way into chronos from a lot of different brands during the same general period. The three-register layout with running seconds at 9:00 and a tachymeter scale on the outer dial are likewise features which, if not exactly ubiquitous, can certainly be found on a number of other contemporary chronographs (including, of course, the caliber 321 Speedmasters).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There were two major changes made to the design when the 6239 was introduced.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The first is the use of contrasting colors for the sub-dials – so-called \"inverse\" dials. The 6238 had sub-dials that were the same color as the rest of the dial, which made for a fairly diffident, low-contrast visual experience.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f273509f-ed31-4087-aa0d-8df2655e1d3b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["91bb4a57-9035-419c-8cda-69f28fae226f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The second major change was to the location of the tachymeter scale, which was shifted from the dial to the bezel. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>These, certainly, were merely cosmetic changes; technically the 6239 is virtually unchanged from the 6238 and that includes the continued use of the Valjoux 72 movement. But these two alterations dramatically changed the character of the watch. The higher contrast dial and ornamented bezel, taken together, started the Cosmograph down the path to becoming as much a design statement and high-visibility status symbol as a technical chronograph.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["a1e0833f-e06b-4eda-b3a0-9736f1e64ac7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The \"Daytona\" signature was introduced in 1964, and in 1965, in the reference 6240, Rolex introduced screw-down chronograph pushers and a screw-down crown. While these were certainly improvements to water resistance, the fact is that a screw-down crown is not naturally at home in a manually-wound watch, and in 1988, Rolex introduced the first self-winding Daytona. This was the 16520, and the movement was the Rolex caliber 4030, which in turn was based on the Zenith El Primero caliber. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0c6863a9-0b97-47ac-8def-ea59bcaf9060"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The fact that Rolex ordered, and began to use, the El Primero movement in large numbers was <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/charles-vermot-the-man-who-saved-the-el-primero-and-possibly-zenith/" target=\"_blank\">famously responsible for saving the movement</a> from becoming another Quartz Crisis-era casualty (of the three self-winding chronograph movements introduced in 1969 – the first year such movements were made available to the public – only the El Primero is still being made). It is well known among watch enthusiasts that Rolex used the El Primero, but it's perhaps less well understood that the movement was significantly modified for Rolex as well. The beat-rate was reduced from 36,000 vph to 28,800 vph; the date function was eliminated, and the regulating system was significantly altered as well, including the addition of a larger balance and a Breguet overcoil balance spring. The caliber 4030 ended up swapping out about half of the original EP parts for new components.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8d60794e-33b1-4cff-9eeb-de12aa49f1d7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Finally, the 16520 introduced a number of other design changes. The case went up in size from 37mm to 40mm, a sapphire crystal was added, and the sub-dials had added to them a thin outer metal ring, with a contrasting color for the running seconds, chronograph minutes, and chronograph hours tracks.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A New Millennium, A New Daytona"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9a0332f7-ccf8-4045-a73e-ce287f759d0d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The year 2000 disappointed in some respects – I mean, I <i>really </i>thought we'd have moonbases and jetpacks by then – but it was for Rolex and the Daytona, and for fans of both, a banner year. This was the year that Rolex introduced its first in-house chronograph movement as the new engine for the Daytona: the caliber 4130. The movement launched in the reference 116520, and it was also the debut of the Rolex Parachrom anti-magnetic balance spring. The 4130 is a very modern, up-to-date design, with a column wheel and vertical clutch, and it improved on the 4030 in a number of respects. Power reserve went to 72 hours (from 54) and other design features included a full balance bridge for better shock resistance, a free-sprung adjustable mass balance with Microstella timing weights (this was also a feature of the 4030), and significant improvements in manufacturing ease and serviceability as well (to pick one of many points, the 4130 uses just 12 different types of screws; the 4030 used more than 40). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fffe5def-be5b-4f93-98d0-a4dbc94e54bd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I mention all this because over the 57 years since the Cosmograph launched, it's become in certain significant respects a very different watch. A watchmaker interviewed for Ben Clymer's 2015 story on visiting the Rolex manufacturing facilities commented, \"They (Rolex) have been quietly improving on the design since the turn of the millennium ... a notable upgrade that they introduced is a hairspring protection block, which eliminates any possible risk of the lower coils of the hairspring tangling in the hairspring's overcoil when the watch endures a hard blow. To the best of my knowledge, this was a horological first. I have never seen anything like it from any other watch company. It is stunningly brilliant in its simplicity and it does its job flawlessly. While the wearer of a Daytona may never notice it's there, they would quickly notice if it were not should the watch take a hard knock.\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>Rarely does Rolex allow journalists inside its hallowed halls, but Ben had a special opportunity to visit the Crown back in 2015. He produced an incredible story detailing his day there, and it happens to include some great information about the caliber 4130 too. It's well worth a read.</p>\n\n<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/inside-rolex/" target=\"_blank\">Check out the full story here.</a></p>","title":"A Look Inside Rolex","images":["eef26711-ea8e-43e1-b53c-79db20b5c5f3"],"alignment":"right"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"The biggest incognito upgrade are playless gears in the chronograph system. As I'm sure you already know, the vertical clutch system of the 4130 eliminates the jarring start of the second that can be noticed on chronographs that feature a lateral clutch when the chronograph is started. Playless gears take this to the next level, by eliminating <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/watch101/backlash/" target=\"\">backlash </a>between gear teeth. In simple terms, backlash is a small amount of space, or 'play,' between the teeth of two gears that are interacting with one another, so that one tooth can disengage as another tooth moves in to continue to the transfer of energy.\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The fact that Rolex continues to improve the engineering of the 4130, and moreover that they do it largely behind the scenes, makes an interesting point (maybe more than one) about the company's philosophy. That knowledge also underlies the fact that hype aside, there are a number of very horologically legitimate reasons to respect the Daytona.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Welcome To Bezelworld"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7d2290f5-8240-4e8f-b86a-6a27c29782ed"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The last major update to the Daytona came in 2013 – kind of. That year was the 50th anniversary of the Daytona, and there was, as you can imagine, quite a lot of speculation about what Rolex might roll out. What the faithful got was certainly not what they were expecting. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Reference 116506 had a 40mm diameter in common with earlier models, but unlike the vintage-adjacent model many were thinking might mark five decades of Cosmograph, it was an unashamedly ultra-luxurious platinum watch, on a platinum bracelet, with a chestnut brown Cerachrom bezel and an \"ice blue\" dial.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["3e937c0c-1726-48a8-bc88-f73acb0170fc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This was actually not the first Cerachrom bezel Daytona – that honor goes to the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-new-rolex-daytona-what-a-difference-a-blac/" target=\"\"><u>2011 Everose Daytona</u></a>, which had a black Cerachrom bezel – but it was certainly more talked about than its predecessor. The reaction from Rolex and Daytona fans was not so much a referendum on the success of the 50th Anniversary Cosmograph per se, but it certainly helps to underscore just how badly a steel-on-steel model was wanted. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>Curious about collecting some of the most exhilarating and dangerous game in the world of high-stakes horology? </p>\n\n<p>Take a look at <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/reference-points-the-paul-newman-daytona/" target=\"_blank\">Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Paul Newman Daytona.</a></p>","title":"The Most Dangerous Game","images":["b9fe2321-3231-4765-b6a4-b9f0f1764a1f"],"alignment":"left"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Finally, four years ago, in 2016, the 116500LN appeared. Paul Boutros' A Week On The Wrist looked at its immediate predecessor, the 116520. This brings us up to the present day, and to a moment that both continues to connect to five-plus decades of Daytona history, but also to an enormous surge in the interest in, and prices paid for, vintage Daytonas. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now, it's certainly true that the $17.75 million paid for Paul Newman's personal Paul Newman Daytona <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/paul-newman-rolex-daytona-auction-most-expensive-watch-ever/" target=\"_blank\">is an attention-getting result</a>, but it is also true that <i>that </i>result would not have been possible without an extremely rabid following not just for Paul Newman Daytonas, but also for vintage Daytonas as a whole. You might be inclined to dismiss that result as a fluke, and the result of never-to-be-duplicated circumstances. But despite speculations that we've reached peak Daytona and that the vintage bubble must surely burst, good examples continue to command prices high enough to make you drop to ground in shock when you first encounter them (just <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/an-unworn-rolex-oyster-paul-newman-daytona-on-antiques-roadshow/" target=\"\"><u>ask this guy</u></a> – and his story <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/antiques-road-show-vintage-rolex-daytona/" target=\"\"><u>isn't a one-off either</u></a>).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Daytona Ref. 116500LN "},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["be81d032-6610-4528-9883-78c5f3b82c9c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Cosmograph Daytona is currently available in the usual plethora of metals, including Everose, yellow gold, and platinum (and Rolesor, which is the model given as a prize to winning teams <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-24-at-daytona-2018-dispatches/" target=\"_blank\">at the Rolex 24 endurance race</a>), but the demand for all of these models put together seems outstripped by the hunger for the 116500LN. It is, as they say, one unit of pure Daytona: 904L Oystersteel case, 40mm x 12.2mm, with screw-down crowns, Cerachrom bezel, matching 904L Oystersteel bracelet, and a list price of $13,150. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>First impressions may be of interest, especially as the opportunity to <i>have </i>a first impression of the 116500LN is a rarity. It immediately looks and feels like a very solid piece of kit, with the immaculate machining, finishing, and precision in assembly that is characteristic of pretty much all modern Rolex production across the board. The bezel is a very prominent part of the design, and its highly reflective surface puts even the highly polished steel bezel of its predecessor in the shade. However, it's also a big improvement over steel technically, as it's essentially scratchproof. The failure mode for ceramic is generally either cracking or fracturing outright, and Cerachrom is, I’m sure, something you could get to do one or the other given enough of a hit. But ceramic bezels have been around long enough at this point that, if they really were unacceptably prone to breaking, we'd probably know it by now (and brands like Rolex and Omega would certainly not still be using it). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a5a0e823-19af-4f3f-9ca3-b3f68f5cc5b8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2b731156-b6b6-4bf5-9053-0f7811dff48c","b75c33ef-ad02-463b-aec1-a45177f46e9d"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In terms of the tachymeter markings on the bezel, a number of different variations have been used by Rolex since 1963 – for the 116500LN (and other modern Daytona models) we have a units-per-hour engraving at 1:00, with a measurement range from 400 to 60. The tick marks on the bezel basically duplicate those on the bezel of the 16520 – individual dots from 400 to 200, with intermittent marks appearing from 200 to 100, and then tick marks for individual single units from 100 to 60. On the Cerachrom bezel, the tick marks from 100 to 60 are also connected with an underline and this element, plus the triangular markers and crisp depth of the numerals and markings, gives the 116500LN a very modern and slightly high-tech feel.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["42e24c12-b189-4544-9c41-02407ab0fe64","c894e119-0392-4bf5-8531-6fbb49c0e80e"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["68b1386f-bd66-42a9-b387-34bc3fd94441"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The dial and hands have gotten considerably more complex (and more high-tech) in 57 years as well. Rolex is notorious for the precision of its dial furniture and printing (one of the most basic tells that you might be looking at a fake Rolex is that the company puts an enormous amount of effort into keeping this as exact as possible, and fakes have a tendency to look, especially by comparison, slightly sloppy, for lack of a better word). There are a <i>lot </i>of dial elements – the raised white-gold surrounds on the hour indexes; the chronograph sub-dials have, on the black outer tracks, an extremely subtle series of concentric stampings; the faceted hands use both white lume inserts and black inserts; there is of course, quite a bit of copy. The latter is I suppose, something of a liability from a pure design standpoint, but dial \"statement\" text is so ubiquitous a part of Rolex watch design that one hardly notices it. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a39964b0-efaa-42f9-b6a3-b97a2f68d779"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["213043c9-3630-4267-8ac3-5e03462d9e57","0a94b03d-94cc-452d-be5b-e3253d2bef22"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Interestingly, despite the number of different design elements, the watch is quite legible – compared to non-Cerachrom models, the 116500LN certainly feels a bit more of a statement watch, but it does so without giving up much in basic utility and readability.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Bracelet quality continues the theme of overbuilt high-quality engineering and construction found in other aspects of the watch; I think Rolex continues to make some of the best bracelets in the business irrespective of price. It feels, despite its heft, very comfortable – the articulations between the links move very smoothly, almost as if there's some sort of internal damping mechanism designed to make the bracelet feel more supple. The clasp is secure as a bank vault (probably more secure than some bank vaults, these days) and there is an easy-to-use and very handy quick-adjustment feature, which lets you add or subtract up to 5mm in length. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2031c8f5-6853-45a1-a307-ae22aa83cc59"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Performance from the caliber 4130 over a one-week period was stellar. As we've already mentioned, this is a high-quality, chronometer-grade movement with a number of technical properties intended to guarantee accuracy and rate stability – Rolex's internal Superlative Chronometer standard is ±2 seconds per day, whereas the COSC standard is -4/+6. The movement is actually certified first by the COSC and then regulated to the Superlative Chronometer standard once the movement is cased. I wore the watch during daily activities including walking 45 minutes a day to and from the office, and it sat crown up overnight. Over the course of a week, it wandered back and forth a bit between gaining and losing a second or so per day, and there was a total weekly gain of one second. There is always a certain amount of luck (or lack thereof) in individual samples, but that was I think notable, and remarkable performance nonetheless. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The general average spec for quartz watches runs to around 15 seconds per month, so that is better-than-quartz performance, at least if you are comparing entry-level quartz watches to the Rolex. Higher-end, high-accuracy quartz watches might still beat it over the course of several months or a year, but it is a comfort and a blessing to know that at least where Rolex is concerned, \"a cheap quartz watch is more accurate than any mechanical watch,\" is not as sure a thing as you might think.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["2857156c-cf3e-4b97-a2e8-d63cbb75e62a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's a pleasure to wear the 116500LN. Every interaction with the watch feels as if someone (probably several someones) thought through what the experience should be like, and engineered that aspect of the watch to produce exactly the desired outcome. The screw down crown and pushers engage extremely precisely, and chronograph pusher feel is crisp and workmanlike. The feel is not quite as unabashedly sensual as the experience you get from a really high end hand-finished and adjusted chronograph, like the Lange Datograph, but it fits the no-nonsense vibe of the rest of the watch quite well. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The weight of the watch is not insignificant but it's pretty evenly distributed around the wrist – you can wear it all day and not really notice that it is there unless you want to check the time or time something. Low-light and nighttime visibility was good as well, especially considering the relatively small amount of luminous material on the dial and hands. A three-register chronograph is never going to have the blazing nocturnal legibility of a good dive watch, but I had no trouble telling the time after dark or in dim or nonexistent lighting. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7dcb2720-89a1-4620-94a5-97ea4e40055a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's impossible to wear a modern steel Daytona and not feel the weight (figuratively speaking) of its history and of the enormous social statement you're making. It seems to be one of those pieces that is instantly recognizable even outside watch enthusiast circles. Perhaps no other Rolex has a better chance of making an impression on someone who is not a watch enthusiast <i>per se</i>, with the possible exception of a 36mm yellow-gold Day-Date. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["91241748-247b-452e-b40c-7b02b4e61f0a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>All this really informs what it's like to wear the watch, at first. It's associated with the expenditure of huge sums at auction and of course, there is also the undeniable pleasure, when you do wear one, of knowing that what you have on is, at least evaluated in terms of supply and demand, much more exclusive than many far more expensive watches. I would be lying if I didn't say that gloating just a little (even deep inside, where no one could see the gloating) was part of the fun (tempered by the fact that I had to return the watch, of course). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When you first put on the Daytona, you're also, therefore, putting on a lot of cultural baggage, which includes knowledge of its cult-watch status as a current production model, and also of its genuinely iconic status as a 50-year-plus part of watchmaking history. But none of that would matter if it weren't a watch that actually delivers on the undeniably more mundane, but ultimately much more important qualities of durability, accuracy, reliability, and high level horological engineering.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["f09936a8-43da-4f4d-b606-a2ec3b9c48e9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In the current lineup of cult-status steel chronographs on a matching steel bracelet, the Daytona does not have a whole lot of competition – this is with the caveat, of course, that pretty much anything you might look at as competition is apt to be much easier to find. However, assuming you can realistically entertain the idea of buying an 116500LN at list, you might also be looking at a watch that is in some respects brand new, but which in other respects was born in the same era as the original Cosmograph: the Speedmaster. The Speedmaster Professional standard model, in steel, on steel, with the caliber 1861 is about half the price of a modern Daytona, but if you jump up a large step to the newly introduced <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/omega-speedmaster-caliber-321-stainless-steel-ed-white-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">steel-on-steel \"Ed White\" Speedmaster</a>, equipped with the caliber 321, you have a watch in the same approximate price range – $14,100 – and moreover with some of the same cult-watch appeal as the Daytona.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["8f1b5ae7-4210-43b5-be44-3ae1825b51a6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>After a moment's consideration, however, you start to realize that these are actually rather different watches in a number of key respects. First of all, one is automatic and the other, manual, but the more profound difference is in the kind of watch each is trying to be. In the Rolex, you have a thoroughly modern mechanism and moreover, you have a design which represents, not an homage to the past, but rather an evolution over 50-plus years of a design which has been steadily updated to incorporate new and better materials and construction. The \"Ed White\" Speedmaster, on the other hand, is deliberately and thoroughly anachronistic in its use of the reborn caliber 321, and it is perfectly possible that a well-heeled and thoughtful enthusiast might want both (god knows I do). You might be lucky enough to find yourself in the position of having to choose one or the other – 14 grand in round figures ain't chump change – but the decision would I think be made somewhat easier by the disparity in value proposition between the two watches. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["b78012e7-c288-4cd0-8127-2bef42a809e6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>From a technical standpoint, the 116500LN is probably competing more closely with the modern, Master Chronometer-certified Omegas, like the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watch-omega-speedmaster-moonwatch-omega-co-axial-chronograph-44-25-mm-31192445101003/" target=\"_blank\">Dark Side Of The Moon</a>, which, with its ceramic bezel and co-axial automatic caliber 9300, does a much better job of closing the gap with the Daytona, purely from an engineering perspective, than the steel caliber 321 Speedmaster. Where the DSOTM gives up a bit is in wearability, as it is a 44.25mm watch; however, it is a close competitor to the Rolex in other respects.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are a few other possibilities, but in-house, automatic chronographs under $15,000 are actually fairly uncommon as there are not that many in-house automatic chronograph movements, with many relying on various versions of the venerable ETA 7750 or its Sellita clones. Breitling has quite a few, however – many of them considerably less expensive than the Daytona and using the B01 caliber. The <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.breitling.com/us-en/watches/premier/premier-b01-chronograph-42/AB0118221G1P1//" target=\"_blank\">Premiere B01 Chronograph 42</a>, for instance, is $8,200 on a strap but can be had on a bracelet as well. Breitling's chronographs tend to be noticeably larger than the Daytona; Navitimers, for instance, are generally in the 46mm range. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["19b727cf-25f7-462e-ad02-3593d08bd7d7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And on a related note, there is the Tudor Black Bay Chronograph. That watch, on a bracelet, comes in at $5,225. The movement, the caliber MT5813, is actually based on the Breitling B01 but with some modifications, including a silicon balance spring and free-sprung adjustable mass balance, certified as a chronometer by the COSC. At less than half the cost of the Daytona, you get, if not a full-on manufacture caliber, certainly one that offers great value. The design's not for everyone – dive watch chronographs tend to have larger hands which can in some positions partially block your view of the sub-dials, but in practice, during <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tudor-black-bay-chronograph-review/" target=\"_blank\">A Week On The Wrist in 2017</a>, I didn't find that to be a major issue in daily use. All of these watches give up something to the Daytona – offerings from Breitling and Omega tend to be notably larger (with the exception of the non-automatic steel 321 Moonwatch), and the Black Bay Chrono has a somewhat divisive design and its movement is not, strictly speaking, a completely in-house caliber. However they do all offer one basic advantage over the Daytona, which is that they are generally readily available (although the 321 Speedmaster is being made in quite small numbers, at least for a series-produced watch from Omega).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["961a1b67-d6ac-4ba0-a98e-d2be3cacdb7b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Rolex Daytona is a very difficult watch to evaluate, and I think there is no way around it – it takes time, and it needs to be seen and experienced in person over time. That this is far more difficult than at any other time in the history of the watch doesn't take away from the reality. There are so many layers of fact, fantasy and history that have accreted over the watch, over the years, that as a watch, it's almost impossible to see it <i>as a watch</i>, certainly at first and for me, for some time after first putting it on. Perhaps it helped, in the end, and for the purposes of this article, that it was not actually my watch – I had no particular stake emotionally in seeing it, in particular, in one light or another.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Certainly, it comes with lots of bragging rights – more than most watches, it seems likely to at least hold its value over the years; you can take a lot of pleasure in aspects of the Daytona that in the end do not have all that much to do with its qualities as a watch. We buy watches for all sorts of reasons, none of them wrong (well, except maybe for, \"I really need to launder tens of thousands of dollars worth of ill-gotten loot, and a watch with high resale value seems like a great way to move money across international borders\"). There is nothing wrong with buying a watch because you like the way it looks; there is nothing wrong with buying a watch because you are a movement nerd or nostalgist and the mechanism speaks to you; there is nothing wrong with buying a watch because you feel damned good about having worked hard and smart enough to be able to afford it, and you want something that both reminds you you done good, and tells the world too. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["1d47ef3e-fc10-4ab2-8da2-97675ff53052"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Whatever your initial reasons for buying a watch, however, you are going to find out more and more about it the longer you own it, and one of the best things a watch can offer is that as the months and years go by, and you build a history together, the watch becomes a source of greater pride in ownership and not a source of regret. The opportunities for buyer's remorse when picking a watch are legion, but I think one of the best things about modern Rolex, and about the Daytona, is that the more you do find out about it, the more likely it is that you will be happy you bought it, and happy you own it, and not the other way around.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>For more on the Rolex Daytona ref. 116500LN, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rolex.com/watches/cosmograph-daytona/m116500ln-0001.html/" target=\"_blank\"><i>visit Rolex online</i></a><i>.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>Visit Hodinkee affiliate Crown & Caliber to shop pre-owned <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.crownandcaliber.com/collections/rolex-watches?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=disclosure-box\%22 target=\"_blank\">Rolex</a> models</p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"5894ac29-da8c-4b4d-9501-952b8846e383","container_id":7459,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1581090290767-ff6kj345gz5-45ea8d118fbd3cc1b48b765ede5fabeb/Hero_01.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2020-02-03T09:59:08.421-05:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T08:42:28.643-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1581090290767-ff6kj345gz5-45ea8d118fbd3cc1b48b765ede5fabeb/Hero_01.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-daytona-ref-116500ln-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Rolex Daytona Ref. 116500LN","tags":[]},{"id":7374,"slug":"seiko-5-sports-srpd-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Seiko 5 Sports SRPD","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2020-01-16T13:05:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2020-01-14T10:57:25.220-05:00","updated_at":"2023-03-02T14:25:03.056-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>A new path for the Seiko 5 that attempts to capture the spirit of an enthusiast icon. </p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6122619019001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":494617,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Last year, Seiko announced an entire re-vamp of their much-loved Seiko 5 line up. An entry-level staple and certainly a 101 class in mechanical watch ownership, the Seiko 5 had long represented a cornerstone in the foundation of Seiko’s enthusiast-focused offerings. But, as nothing lasts forever, in announcing the new Seiko 5, Seiko ended the lifecycle of all of the older models and began a new chapter in the Seiko 5's impressive history. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["07d1f336-57aa-4e7f-acf5-9a4f8c44266a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Interestingly enough, this is not the only enthusiast icon that Seiko recently sent to live on a farm in the countryside. What first was a rumor on the forums later became known more widely: Seiko is discontinuing the production of the legitimately iconic SKX007 (and its many siblings). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I recently shared <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/then-and-now-revisiting-my-first-watch/" target=\"_blank\">the story of my first watch</a>, and while that humble little Timex did indeed kick off my interest in watches – like the endless stream of \"entertaining\" comic book movies every one assures me I should love – there is yet another chapter in my origin story. It's a story that leads to many many Seikos, but like many of you, it started with one true enthusiast-loved model – the SKX007. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cdcae4f5-c18c-414e-afab-9a2ac97d7c3a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>At this point, you may be wondering, “Why is he talking so much about the Seiko SKX? I thought this was a review of the new Seiko 5s”. Well, to my mind, you can’t understand the new Seiko 5s without understanding both the old Seiko 5s and their more dive-focused relative, the SKX007 (for simplicity I’m going to keep saying the SKX007, but this could be largely interchangeable with many of the other versions – more on that in a bit). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In creating a something of a new formula for the 2019 Seiko 5s, aka the SRPD Seiko 5s, Seiko had to ensure they paid some favor to the enthusiasts that had long been telling their friends to buy SNKs and SKXs, and you can see elements of both in the new Seiko 5 design. The brief is still very much a Seiko 5, but the look is just a <i>skootch</i> off of the SKX007. Let’s dig in. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4db96a5b-3300-4636-94a0-75b861fe2a85"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Five What?"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Starting with the Seiko 5, the line was originally launched in 1963 and was meant to offer value-driven everyday watches that were sport ready along with an excellent entry point into the Seiko line up, which by that time - in Japan, at least - included everything from the Seiko 5 all the way to Grand Seiko (which launched in 1960 with the gorgeous 3180-powered J14070). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Furthermore, while I’m sure that many of you have owned (or at least read about) the Seiko 5, did you know that the \"5\" stands for something? True to the specific and focused way in which Seiko produces watches, the \"5\" is in reference to five base qualities that should be offered by any Seiko 5 watch. These include automatic winding, a day and date display, water resistance, a protected/recessed crown, and a durable case and bracelet. That feels like a recipe for an excellent and reliable sports watch and, from the Speed Timer of 1969 to perennial favorites like the SNXS77, the SNK381, or the truly wonderful SNK803 (or any SNK80x), Seiko 5 became synonymous with entry-level mechanical watches that didn’t skimp where it counts. Go ahead, Google Seiko 5 and see how often one (or several) pop up in listicles for the best watches under a given price. This is with plenty of good reason, as you can still snag an SNK803 for less than $100. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["340e9adb-de41-49ee-8bac-0af1257bcc57"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Long story short, the legacy of Seiko 5 is as the Mediterranean or Baltic Ave in the <i>Monopoly </i>of watch enthusiasm. They aren’t expensive or flashy, but the value statement is pure Seiko and they offer a foundational building block for any value-hungry collector or buyer. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Connective Tissue "},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Likewise, while representing a step up from the brand's most entry-level line, the SKX line of watches is something a bit more sport specific. While the \"SKX\" nomenclature is an umbrella that includes watches outside the scope of this post (like the classic SKX779 \"Black Monster\"), when most Seiko-nerds say \"SKX\" they are referring to watches like the SKX007, the SKZX009 (blue/red bezel), the SKX011 (orange dial), the SKX013 (37mm version of SKX007), or the SKX173 (the US market variant with a slightly different dial design). Regardless of the variants, the base unit of this design, and its formidable presence in the watch community, is the SKX007. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["4a3c46d2-721f-41f2-b6bb-fd57d9082099"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With a black dial surrounded by a 42.5mm steel case (46mm lug to lug and 13.25mm thick), a unidirectional dive bezel (with a luminous pip), screw-down crown, and 200 meters of water resistance, the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-seiko-skx007-divers-watch/" target=\"_blank\">SKX007 is a true tool dive watch</a>. I’ve had mine for more than 10 years (I thought it less while recording the video, but I am getting old, see the below image – the first I ever made on a DLSR). It was my first proper mechanical watch, my first legit dive watch, and it represented my in-road not into watch appreciation, but rather into the ranks of the watch nerd (following untold hours on Poor Man’s Watch Forum and WatchUSeek, to make sure I wasn't off the mark). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["b62e9b90-a225-478e-be0b-fedd2ee03638"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Over the past decade (plus), my SKX007 has been with me through a lot. Endless adventures, my PADI certification, and endless jobs around North America and Europe. It is the sort of watch that becomes a companion, nice enough to feel like you have a few things going for you, but not so nice that you feel the need to take it off when the going gets tough. I’ve worn my SKX007 on the included (and very jangly) jubilee bracelet, a Seiko Z22 rubber strap, an Isofrane rubber, a cadre of leather options, and of course, NATOs. A few years back, knowing that dive duty could go to a handful of other watches, I installed a Yobokies 12-hour steel bezel insert, which made my SKX007 both much more useful and much more <i>me. </i>Here it is running double-duty in London in the fall of last year:</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["5afd8c7b-a589-4818-9330-7a369341c69a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In all actuality, modding is a huge part of the Seiko community and no model is more readily customizable than the SKX divers. In the hopes of taking a known quantity and making it something just for you, the Seiko modding community offers everything from simple bezel inserts, to sapphire crystals, alternative hands/dials, special case coatings, and more. You can do the mods yourself or have any one of several known personalities complete your customization. If you need a vehicular example, the SKX007 is like the Jeep Wrangler of watches; a specific and simple creation of utilitarian concern with both casual and nerdy appeal and a near-endless underworld of modding and customization. Want to see what is possible? Just open up Instagram and scroll through <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/seikomod//" target=\"_blank\">#seikomod</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["c6c9f44f-757b-47a0-8fbf-6d7e32d27486"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>To my recollection, I paid about $200 for this Seiko and not long ago I spent another chunk of cash to have it serviced (the7S26 is a workhorse, but not an accurate one, so be sure to keep yours tuned up by a qualified pro). I love this watch, I have convinced friends and family to buy the same (or similar) and I intend to have it around until it (or I) are claimed by one of many life's adventures.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>At a more macro level, Seiko dive watches are special in that they can be both a unit of enthusiast watchmaking and just about anyone's one watch by offering easy appeal to both enthusiast or casual buyers. Yes the SKX007 is a bit big for some wrists (if so, sub in an SKX013) and yes the movement is not especially accurate or refined, but it's a tough steel dive watch with a classic Seiko aesthetic that can be traced back to 1968, and Seiko is a brand <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.seikowatches.com/global-en/products/prospex/special/historyofdiverswatches//" target=\"_blank\">that both knows and loves the dive watch in all of its forms.</a> </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With the above in mind, I look at the Seiko SKX007 (and in many ways the outgoing Seiko 5s), in two specific ways. First, as a product, and second, as the beginning of a fascination which has claimed more than the last 10 years of my life. I know that it may seem that I have digressed, but I'll do my best to put the above context to use. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The New Seiko 5"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["2babb204-5497-4bb2-a87c-cacfdafc42e9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Ok, let’s start the review, shall we? Announced in August of last year, the new Seiko 5 line mixes the philosophy of the Seiko 5 legacy with the aesthetic of the much-loved SKX007. Verging on the more-than-familiar, the new SRPD Seiko 5 line has some 27 SKUs (at time of writing) and all models are all diver-like in their styling and use the same case and bezel structure (though finishing does vary). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Of those 27 launch models, this review looks at some 10 models that range in color, finish, mount, and style, but all have a 42.5mm steel case (13.4mm thick and 46mm lug to lug), a display case back (common to Seiko 5, not seen on a stock SKX007), 100 meters water resistance, a passive crown (non-screw down), a Hardlex crystal, drilled 22mm lugs and a newer Seiko 4R36 movement.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["be7af127-50e8-46ae-806a-c65cd8ce109e","8b5ed1e1-8cef-44c2-b7fa-c443a0114e57"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So as a Seiko 5, the new line carries on with an automatic movement with day and date, water resistance, a protected crown, and a durable case and bracelet (several options are available here, from a steel three-link to a mesh to silicone strap and even an OEM NATO). And, as a nod to the outgoing king of entry-level Seikos, the new 5ers also look <i>a lot</i> like a Seiko SKX007. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>We see a very similar dial design (save for some branding changes, applied numerals, and the new Seiko 5 logo) and the case is, for all intents and purposes, identical to that of the SKX. While updated with drilled lugs (love) and a display case back (always a crowd-pleaser), i'’s very clear that while Seiko didn’t want to update the SKX line specifically (as their dive line up is now nicely packaged within the Prospex family), they did want the look and feel to live on as the new basis for the Seiko 5. While it’s quite likely that the new Seiko 5 line will expand into more than just dive-adjacent sports watches, as a relaunch I see this as something of a come up for the Seiko 5 in general but something of a half-measure for those that may have been hoping for a direct replacement of the SKX007. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["76f15ac9-f8ff-464e-a06d-300e4384e4ec"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Where the new Seiko 5 has most certainly improved is in the use of a more modern Seiko movement, the automatic 4R36. A generational jump over the 7S26 common to previous Seiko 5s and SKXs, the 4R36 offers hacking and hand-winding (7S26 had neither) along with a 40-hour power reserve, a rate of 3 Hz (21,600 vph), and in my experience with several examples, improved accuracy compared to that of the 7S26/36 movement. While the new Seiko 5s cost a bit more (in MSRP) than the street price of many of the previous generation's models, the 4R36 is not entirely common to Seiko's most entry-level offering (many of you will have experienced the movement in many SRP Prospex divers). It's not a fancy movement, but it is reliable and accurate enough for a modern Seiko sports watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Aside from the movement and the similarity to the SKX, the next aspect of note for the SRDP Seiko 5s is the myriad versions available at launch. Again, I was able to get 10 examples on loan from Seiko, but there appears to be some 27 different versions offered at launch. The line covers everything from more standard models like the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.seikowatches.com/ca-en/products/5sports/srpd55k1/" target=\"\"><u>SRPD55</u></a> and the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.seikowatches.com/ca-en/products/5sports/srpd53k1/" target=\"\"><u>SRPD53</u></a> to an all-black version (the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.seikowatches.com/ca-en/products/5sports/srpd65k1/" target=\"\"><u>SRPD65</u></a>), a gold-tone model (the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.seikowatches.com/ca-en/products/5sports/srpd76k1/" target=\"\"><u>SRPD76</u></a>), and the colorful and textured format of the distinctive green <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.seikowatches.com/ca-en/products/5sports/srpd77k1/" target=\"\"><u>SRPD77</u></a><u>.</u></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6a09ae1e-a1a6-4584-afd1-f54475624c94"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's a lot, especially considering there were only a handful of models in the original SKX00X lineup. In my mind, this is a direct nod from Seiko to the modding culture surrounding many of their entry-level pieces. A wide range of colors, straps, bracelets, and personalities, all from one base design. No longer do you need to buy the black dial and then order parts from all over the internet, now you can pick the one you want (or close to, theoretically) right at the store. Also, let's not forget that there is an unseen offering with these models, as they are US market available. While many of us turned to grey market dealers to buy warranty-less Seikos from Japan (or nearby, shout out to my SKX007K brothers and sisters), you can now get your Seiko 5 SRPD from your local Seiko retailer, and leave the store with a warranty and the welcome assurance of authenticity (which is a big plus if you're just getting into watches or uncomfortable with buying online from sometimes-dubious sources).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["af033239-aaf6-4608-8683-79d47b2182e7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As you can assume, the SRPD Seiko 5 line wears just like an SKX007. It's is a bit tall, but sits flat and evenly on my 7-inch wrist. Lug to lug distance is very agreeable, even for somewhat smaller wrists. Thickness and width are manageable, with the crown placement ensuring it doesn’t wear any wider than the measurement would suggest.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The strap options are of specific note as the bracelets and the rubber are vastly improved over what came, as stock, with watches like the SKX. The three-link \"oyster\" style is tight and nicely made, the silicone is soft and pliable, and while the mesh feels wide on wrist (no taper) it is nicely made and quite comfortable. Finally, the NATOs are better than I expected, with matched hardware and a soft but hardwearing finish. Not as nice as some of the premium options on the market but certainly well matched for the SRPD 5ers at this price point. As far as the mounts are concerned, a job well done (and with drilled lugs, it’s easy to change your mind). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d81dba1d-db5c-47bc-a7c5-f328140e186a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["69354692-dc97-4bab-a720-5839ea763afe","99df9244-ef0c-424d-aa3a-7ac2a6e0c3d4"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The new dial design is sparse with ample negative space and added presence, thanks to the applied markers. The black is smoother and richer than that of any SKX or Seiko 5 I have come across, and there are additional finishes that take the work even further, like the iridescent green of the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.seikowatches.com/us-en/products/5sports/srpd61/" target=\"_blank\">SRPD61</a>, the full stealth black-on-black look of the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.seikowatches.com/us-en/products/5sports/srpd79/" target=\"_blank\">SRPD79</a>, or the textured dials (and matched case coloring) of the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.seikowatches.com/us-en/products/5sports/srpd77/" target=\"_blank\">SRPD77</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.seikowatches.com/us-en/products/5sports/srpd85p9/" target=\"_blank\">SRPD85</a>. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While the branding and dial text are limited, the lume is anything but. While these new Seiko 5s may lack the dive-specific chops of their aesthetic forbearer, they glow as well as any Seiko should. Bright, long-lasting, and more than ready to help flood your Instagram feed with #lumeshots. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["56f1ccf2-ef88-4b01-a944-9a42709af5b0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Finally, while my old and well-loved SKX007 is not the bar with which I would measure the fit or finish of these Seiko 5s, I'm around a lot of Seikos and the touchpoints for these Seiko 5 have been improved. The bezel is smooth and positive (if a little vague, but that’s not uncommon to entry and mid-level Seikos) and the crown action feels much more robust than that of any previous Seiko 5 or SKX that I’ve fiddled with.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With an MSRP starting at $295 (for more simple models on steel bracelets) and rising to $335 for the more intricate versions on a NATO and then finally $350 for models on steel that also have additional decoration (like the black/black SRPD65 for the tan/steel mech SRPD67), competition is tough. First, we have to consider the street price of both the outgoing Seiko 5s (many of which can be had for less than $150) and the SKX007 (where you get a true dive watch, but no updated movement, flashier colorways, or any sort of a Seiko warranty). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Highlighted above, there is also the reality of the difference between Seiko MSRP and Seiko street prices. Many of you who have been around Seiko watches in the time of the internet know that there is a vacillating delta between the pricing suggested by Seiko, and the pricing found from various online retailers (including the grey market). To make matters more difficult, that delta can change due to demand (newer models tend to carry a street price closer to that of the MSRP) and due to the regional availability of the watch in question. By that I mean if you can’t buy it in a store in your country, the MSRP is largely meaningless. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As an example, using what is likely my favorite affordable Seiko dive watch on the market today, the Prospex SRP777, the price has moved around a fair bit since they were introduced. Originally holding a street price that was aligned with its $495 MSRP, I’ve seen this watch (and other versions of the SRP “Turtle” diver) dip well into the sub $300 range and, at time of posting, pricing is hovering around $370 (which is still a considerable discount off of the MSRP). The point is, it can be hard to pin a fixed price to a Seiko and thus tough to establish the closest competition. But assuming a price point of around $250 to 400, let's give it a try. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["a435a77d-4962-44c9-bf81-c9d2b632d33f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Seiko SKX007</strong> </p>\n\n<p>We’ve been over this, at length, and the comparison is definitely a case of give-and-take. If you really need a dive watch, the SKK00X divers remain a great option. That said, their price has risen since being discontinued and while there isn’t exactly a shortage to be found both new and second hand, they now cost roughly the same as a new SRPD Seiko 5, which will have a warranty, not to mention an updated movement. The SKX007 and other similar Seikos, is a great option if you must have an ISO certified Seiko dive watch around 42mm and under $300. But, in getting the dive spec, you trade some benefits available on both the new SRPD 5ers and other current-model Seiko Prospex offerings. </p>\n\n<p><i>(discontinued but street price hovering around $290 with a steel bracelet)</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["45aa47a6-7074-4d0f-a3ee-99b0db2fffbd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Seiko Turtle (SRP777 or similar) </strong></p>\n\n<p>If you actually want to dive, or perhaps simply want what I believe to be the sweet spot in Seiko's more entry-level dive offerings, the SRP “Turtle” divers are nothing short of excellent. Yes, the case is a bit larger at 44.3mm, but given the dished case shape and its relatively square dimensions (it’s still just 48mm lug to lug) the Turtle wears way better than you’d expect. It’s a US domestic model available in several versions that span steel, gold-tone, and a handful of special editions. All have 200 meters of water resistance, a Seiko 4R36 movement, and feel more than at home underwater (I took my review unit diving several times in Vancouver).</p>\n\n<p><i>$495; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.seikowatches.com/us-en/products/prospex/srp777p9/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Seikowatches.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["c031b555-d354-424e-9a7e-ad88ae280ebb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Orient Mako II</strong></p>\n\n<p>Here is another fan favorite that shows up in a lot of lists for great entry-level dive watches. The Mako has been around for a while and comes in several versions, with the most standard being the black dial Mako II. With a 41.5mm steel case and a matching steel bracelet with solid end links, a sapphire crystal, and 200m water resistance, the Mako II has a committed following thanks to its classic design and excellent price point. If the Seiko options don't suit your style or you need a solid option on a tighter budget, the Mako II is definitely worth a look. </p>\n\n<p><i>$120; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.orientwatchusa.com/products/saa0200ab9/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Orientwatchusa.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["90bf59ea-deae-4fc8-b783-4463eed7363b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Citizen Promaster Diver</strong></p>\n\n<p>If you want a dive ready option but would prefer the fuss-free nature of a solar-powered quartz movement, this Citizen Promaster Diver (ref BN0150-28E) has a lot to offer. On the larger size, this Promaster measures some 44mm with the crown but packs an Eco-Drive movement, 200 meters water resistance, and a date display at four o'clock. As a larger casual diver for weekends and vacations, or to balance out a more dressy workweek collection, this may be just the ticket for grab-and-go scenarios and sub-aquatic adventures. </p>\n\n<p><i>$280; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.citizenwatch.com/us/en/product/BN0150-28E.html?cgid=promaster-sea\%22 target=\"_blank\"><i>Citizenwatch.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["6ece460e-9b3c-4d75-b703-e8ece5994629"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Scurfa Bell Diver 1 Auto</strong></p>\n\n<p>With a Miyota 9015 automatic movement, a 43mm steel case, and 500 meters water resistance, the Bell Diver 1 Auto from Surfa is a professional tool dive watch created by an actual saturation diver (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/episode-90-a-chat-with-paul-scurfield-of-scurfa-watches/" target=\"\"><u>listen to his story here</u></a>). Complete with an HeV that the creator has actually used and tested, the Bell Diver is an example of just how much value is available just outside the usual suspects from Seiko and Citizen. If you’ve gone down the usual path many times, maybe take a look at value-focused but more specialized options like the Bell Diver 1 Auto. </p>\n\n<p><i>$400 (approx exchange); </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.scurfawatches.com/product/bell-diver-1-stainless-steel-auto//" target=\"_blank\"><i>Scurfawatches.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"In Conclusion"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So where does all of this leave the new Seiko 5s? From my perspective, the new SRPD line is well-positioned in a very competitive space. Yes, these new models follow the established Seiko 5 format, and lack the water resistance and the luminous pip to qualify as a true dive watch (although the international standard for dive watches does specify 100m as an acceptable minimum) but Seiko has many many more dive offerings in the Prospex line up. If you're a diver and want to take these diving, I'd suggest that while the 100m water resistance is likely more than up to the task, you may want to look elsewhere. If you're not a diver and you are looking for a handsome and well-made entry-level steel sports watch, then the new Seiko 5s offer excellent value and tons of variety to suit your personal tastes. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["64580d32-a616-41ed-9baa-037d46f4c455"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The new Seiko 5 really makes the most sense only when considered in a post-SKX007 world. If you stick to the perspective, as I did initially, of someone who remembers the incredible excitement of opening that blue Seiko box to uncover their first Seiko diver, the new Seiko 5 feels under-spec'd and perhaps too expensive. But, as a modern offering into the enthusiast space, what the SRPD line lacks in toolish dive appeal likely won't matter to most buyers who want something that can handle the pool or perhaps snorkeling while on vacation. And for the ones that do care deeply, not only are there plenty of SKX007s floating around, Seiko also has a vast line of legit dive watches for not much more money. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8ca0399f-cf34-4093-b805-38d27fd065cf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While not a true dive watch, I do think the new Seiko 5 manages to uphold the SKX007’s legacy as a value-driven and everyday-ready sports watch that is perfect for those who are just dipping their toe into the bubbling waters of watch enthusiasm. To that, I say jump in! The water is great and you likely don’t need 200 meters to have a whole 'lotta fun. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.seikowatches.com/us-en/products/5sports/lineup/" target=\"_blank\">For more information, please visit Seiko online. </a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","hero_image":{"id":"93c2c608-7f7b-4486-bb41-51ef8bf06cc5","container_id":7374,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1579103243935-48u8pltj56t-41305a6e5ac131e7a7718db320380444/Seiko-5-SRPD-6.jpg","width":2200,"height":1467,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2020-01-14T10:57:25.590-05:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T08:42:47.440-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1579103243935-48u8pltj56t-41305a6e5ac131e7a7718db320380444/Seiko-5-SRPD-6.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/seiko-5-sports-srpd-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Seiko 5 Sports SRPD","tags":[]},{"id":7302,"slug":"tudor-black-bay-fifty-eight-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2019-12-19T12:42:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2019-12-15T13:32:25.638-05:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:03:21.493-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>With a smaller take on its modern diver, Tudor offers a totally different kind of vintage-inspired watch.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6117065642001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":354707,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":"TUDORARTICLE","apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There is no archetype in the history of horology that has generated more variations, more interpretations, and more attempts at reinvention than the mid-century dive watch. I don't even have to say the names of the watches that started this genre, since you probably spoke them out loud to yourself at the end of my previous sentence. But it's fair to say that for many people, this is what they think of when someone says the word \"watch.\" The mid-century dive watch, with its rotating timing bezel, it's clean, no-fuss dial, and its sturdy case and bracelet profile, transcends any one watch at this point. It's an idea as much as a thing itself.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>That's why a watch like the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight is so interesting to me. Tudor essentially created its modern update to the dive watch in 2012, with the introduction of the Heritage Black Bay. At the time, it was just one watch, but in the nearly eight years since, it's grown into a family of watches at Tudor and a formula for other brands to follow. But while the Black Bay takes a number of cues from old-school dive watches, it doesn't make any attempt to actually be one. It's 41mm across, it's relatively thick, and it's styled in such a way that you'd never mistake it for something from the 1950s. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight is something different entirely.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["63f3e6fa-d5f1-466c-b063-1d7e3f841a21"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, Tudor splits the difference between the Black Bay and the original Tudor dive watches from the late '50s. It balances a smaller case size and throw-back dial and bezel details with a brand new movement and modern build quality. It's an homage that doesn't have to feel like one if you don't want it to. It moves seamlessly between the worlds of the old and the new in a way that feels unique and refreshing.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So, obviously, I had to take one for a spin myself.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A Tale Of Two Archetypes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["77a1ef57-ca5d-43b0-b0c0-d3b85473d5b9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The very first Tudor dive watch, the reference 7922, was presented in 1954. The watch was commonly called the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner and it came just a year after Rolex unveiled the ref. 6204 Submariner. The two shared a lot of traits. Both had simple no-date dials, bold timing bezels, and cases with small crowns and no crown guards. These traits would become archetypes in no time, spawning generations of dive watches from Tudor, Rolex, and nearly every other watch company on planet Earth.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>More than half a century later, the first Heritage Black Bay model was unveiled, just ahead of Baselworld 2012. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-the-tudor-heritage-black-bay-reference-7922r-full-s/" target=\"_blank\">Ben reported on the release</a>, and it's interesting to look back at his coverage (and coverage from others) to see reactions at the time. The kind of vintage throwback watches that we're so used to seeing today were entirely absent from the market and Tudor opened a lot of eyes with this new model. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bd48cbe9-a4c6-4077-a2af-6fb0c42081f3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of the most fascinating things about the Black Bay is the way that it created its own identity out of bits and pieces from Tudor's past. There's the gilt dial from the earliest 1954 Tudor diver, there's the oversized crown from late 1950s and early 1960s divers, there are the Snowflake hands from '70s military watches, and there's the faded red color scheme pulled from a piece in Tudor's archive. But all of this is put together in a package that's the size and proportions of a modern watch, utilizing modern manufacturing techniques and finishes. It's six different vintage watches, and also none of them.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>From here, we saw the Black Bay emerge as its own blueprint. New colors, new materials, and even new sizes and form factors entered the picture. I don't think anyone would try to argue that the Black Bay Bronze, for example, is a vintage homage watch. No, it's a Black Bay. In less than eight years, the Black Bay has become its own thing, and I can't say I'm all that surprised.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9be77637-1e60-40ce-b8ec-ee3b4a23205a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And that brings us to the Black Bay Fifty-Eight. It is yet another distinct moment for Tudor, in terms of how the brand thinks about its historical legacy, its modern identity, and how the two can interact. It is neither a straight homage watch, nor is it a Black Bay in the typical sense. It is its own third way – and a compelling one at that.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Black Bay Fifty-Eight"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["7042b5b8-933f-4eca-bdc0-0c405e895bb1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tudor-black-bay-fifty-eight-hands-on/" target=\"_blank\">When it was announced at Baselworld 2018</a>, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight quickly became one of the most-talked-about watches of the year (alongside its sibling, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tudor-black-bay-gmt-review/" target=\"_blank\">the Black Bay GMT</a>). For good reason. The BB58 did a great job splitting the difference between upending the Black Bay archetype and simply offering a new color combination. You get a new form factor, a new set of historically grounded design choices, and even a new movement to power it all. This is a new watch, but a new watch that's firmly anchored in a storied past.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Case & Bracelet"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["718769bd-df59-4494-bb80-481eb56eae16"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The most important new thing the Black Bay Fifty-Eight brings to the table is its size. The watch is 39mm across and 11.9mm thick – that makes it a full 2mm smaller in diameter and nearly 3mm thinner than the typical Heritage Black Bay models. You might not think 2mm sounds like a lot, but when it comes to a watch like this, it's night and day. You feel the difference when you pick the watch up, and when you put it on your wrist, the difference is even more pronounced. I've always loved the Black Bay, but I've always found it to be just a bit too wide and a little too thick for me to wear on a daily basis. Problem solved.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["13a439ee-9f57-44e5-b853-f2c348b2cfd2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The watch is basically the size of a vintage Tudor Submariner, and it's got the details to match. First off, there are no crown guards, which, for me, immediately elevates the watch. Just as important, though, are the thick bevels on the case. When Rolex switched to the so-called \"maxi case\" for its sport watches, the lug bevels that long defined watches like the Submariner and GMT-Master disappeared. We get them here on the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight, and they give the case great visual definition as well as some vintage charm.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["2b65dde5-aab8-4c13-b54c-23fa0699c957"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["a6a35e5c-8fe7-4f0a-a949-8b40bef55e96","ade00854-621e-41b0-8feb-c9d8ee8f1344"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While you have the option to buy the Black Bay Fifty-Eight on a leather strap or a fabric strap, I think you're making a big mistake if you purchase this without the bracelet. It's a Tudor dive watch – without the bracelet it feels incomplete to me. That bracelet is the rivet-style bracelet that Tudor introduced a few years ago. It's one of my favorite modern bracelets, and has been for some time. The links are solid (unlike the folded links in vintage rivet bracelets) though the caps on the sides make it look like a bracelet from 50 years ago. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One huge upside to this bracelet is that it's easy to size on your own. Just get the right size screwdriver and you can remove a few links from either side of the clasp without having to visit a watchmaker. This is one of those little, user-friendly things that too many watch companies ignore. On the other hand, though, there are only three sets of holes for micro-adjustments on the clasp. I'd like to see five. It would cost pennies per bracelet and it adds a lot of comfort to customers.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Dial & Bezel"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e3713049-ab08-4e6f-abfa-fc301f146990"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If I had to use one word to describe the dial and bezel of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, it would be \"gilt.\" As a throw-back to those old-school 1950s dive watches, Tudor opted for gold-on-black printing reminiscent of those watches' galvanic dials. The Tudor logo, the depth rating, the chronometer certification, the chapter ring, the hour marker surrounds, the hands, and the bezel markings are all a warm shade of gold. Tudor officially describes them as \"pink gold\" markings, but I think in reality they look like warm yellow more than true pink. But I digress.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["a660186b-996a-4137-8e02-f86c5dee7b72"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["102dd60e-7e4a-4f9b-87bb-f708d88f3489","4425ac91-aa31-429a-b20c-50176ca40eb8"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When the watch first came out, all of this gold was a polarizing thing. Some people loved that the BB58 had a warmth and subtle glow to it, while others thought it was a bit much and crossed the line. I'm in the former camp, though I see where the critics are coming from. Since the Black Bay Fifty-Eight is explicitly referencing 1950s divers, I think the gold is appropriate and I think it helps distinguish the watch from something like <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-tudor-heritage-black-bay-black-reference-79220n-by-john-mayer/" target=\"_blank\">the Black Bay Black</a>, for instance. The only color you'll find is the red triangle at the 0/60 spot on the bezel, yet another spot-on nod to the past.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The dial is super legible, just as you'd expect, and the three-hand, no-date configuration is just what this watch needs. It's no-frills and has nothing extra. The bezel insert is aluminum and has a matte finish, making it look a lot more like a vintage bezel than one of the ceramic implementations you'll find on most modern divers. The coin edge is a bit slim, so it can be tough to turn if you're wearing gloves or have wet hands, though the trade off is that it looks a lot nicer and feels better in most day-to-day situations. If you're diving with this watch, that might be an issue. Otherwise, I think you're in good shape.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2b879c71-b0d8-4837-a0ac-6dfd38f5cd78"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While you can't see the Black Bay Fifty-Eight's movement due to the solid caseback, it's an extremely important part of this watch. The in-house Tudor caliber MT5402 is a brand new movement that was created specifically for this watch. In order to get the Black Bay Fifty-Eight's dimensions down, Tudor couldn't use an existing movement from it's arsenal, so this is what they came up with.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The MT5402 is smaller and thinner than the caliber you'll find in the other, larger Black Bay models, the MT5602. That movement is 31.8mm in diameter, while the MT5402 is just 26mm across. The MT5402 still provides a 70-hour power reserve, still has a 4 Hz balance, and is still COSC chronometer certified. It's a no-date movement and Tudor said upon its release at Baselworld 2018 that it will be used as a platform for more watches down the line. We're yet to see those, since the smaller Black Bay 36 is still utilizing an ETA 2824, but there must be some good stuff on the way.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["dab863fc-c47d-4aa7-abce-eddb2847a3f6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Personally, I really like that Tudor went for an in-house movement here, when they could have just used an ETA caliber instead. I mean, they use them elsewhere in the line-up and with a closed back you're not going to see it anyway. To me, this is what elevates the Black Bay Fifty-Eight into the realm of a flagship watch for Tudor, placing it alongside the other top Black Bay models. It's a variation, not a novelty.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["84583eaa-0365-4b4c-9169-33d4e8c22e27"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The moment you put the Black Bay Fifty-Eight on your wrist, you know you're dealing with something special. It's a modern watch – there's no doubt about that. It's sturdy, it feels like it can take anything you throw at it, and it's got that bit of sparkle and shine that only new creations have. But it's got an old soul. I imagine it feels something like what it might have felt like to strap on a Big Crown back in 1958. I might be spoiling my own review here, but this isn't one of those watches that takes easing into or requires mental somersaults to come to terms with. I put it on my wrist and I knew I didn't want to take it off.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The case is basically the perfect proportions for a sport watch, as far as I'm concerned. It doesn't look dainty, but it doesn't hang over the edges of my relatively small wrist. The fact that the bezel and dial are the same color scheme allows it to look a bit larger and stronger on the wrist, since the visual cues are uninterrupted. The contrast between the brushed tops of the lugs and the polished sides of the case is more pronounced once you start wearing the watch. It will catch the light unexpectedly and recapture your attention. I found the case to have some unexpected dynamism on the wrist, and I really enjoyed it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a7161083-8bdc-40f3-904a-621d1c3c084a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Black Bay Fifty-Eight's biggest selling point, though, might be its versatility. Because it's essentially monochromatic, is a medium size, and looks good on the bracelet or nearly any strap, it's a great candidate for a first serious watch or a one-watch collection. I could see myself wearing this watch a ton to travel, since it goes with anything. It's slim enough that I didn't mind wearing it with a sweater (no cuff snagging issue), but I'd be equally excited to wear it to the beach with a t-shirt and trunks. Not too many watches can do this, but the Black Bay Fifty-Eight is a pretty perfect go-anywhere, do-anything watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["612e6e10-319a-46c1-b662-4bbd3cf5b4a7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I'm not normally someone obsessed with chronometry. From time to time I find myself setting my watches to the second and checking in on them, but typically, as long as I'm not late for anything, I consider myself well within an acceptable range. Just out of curiosity, I did time this watch, and the results blew me away. After seven days and six nights, the watch was running at a total of plus two seconds. <i>Plus two</i>. That's wild stuff and about as good as any modern mechanical timekeeper can do. So, if you're a timing nerd, this one might just be for you, too.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As far as comfort is concerned, I've only got one gripe, and I mentioned it above: I really wish the bracelet had more micro-adjustment positions. I'm somewhere between sizes, and dialing in the perfect fit is tough. With four links out and the clasp on the largest setting, it's a bit small; with three links out and the clasp on the smallest setting, it jangles around a bit. I've landed on the latter position, and it's mostly fine, but another millimeter or two and we'd be perfect.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["25040a01-fcf4-4d69-8b83-334b4d7ef2f7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Ultimately, after my week with the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, I found it hard to take off (just as I thought I would). It's a watch that hits a lot of the right notes, either despite its simplicity or because of it – I can't quite make up my mind. It's easy to wear, but still interesting; it's robust but well-sized; it's a throw-back but totally modern. It's a watch of quiet contrasts and it's just flat-out fun to wear.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["dd992108-af21-4517-a617-ecf7cbc11f05"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Black Bay Fifty-Eight might be an outstanding watch, but it sits squarely in some of the most competitive territory in all of watchmaking. Priced at $3,625, it's up against all entry-to-mid level luxury sport watches. As a diver too, it's a category that most people feel pretty familiar with, so it has to make a case to distinguish itself. For this set of comparisons, I've chosen to limit it to sport watches under $5,000 that I think offer strong value for money and that you could in theory wear every day.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Co-Axial 41mm"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["713d12aa-0863-4e7d-aebd-8b2519a137e6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Omega has a massive catalog of Seamaster variations, so there's basically something for everyone. But in trying to compare something directly to the BB58, I think this version is the closest they've got. It's 41mm, so a bit bigger than the Tudor, but it has one of Omega's in-house co-axial movements, a rotating ceramic bezel, and a solid caseback. It comes in the classic Omega blue or a more understated black, so you can decide how bold you want to be. At $4,000, it's also the entry point into the Seamaster range. If you're dead-set on something vintage inspired, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watch-omega-seamaster-300-omega-master-co-axial-41-mm-23330412101001/" target=\"_blank\">the Seamaster 300</a> is nearly twice the price at $6,800 on the bracelet, and if you want to get <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watch-omega-seamaster-diver-300m-omega-co-axial-master-chronometer-42-mm-21030422004001/" target=\"_blank\">a Seamaster Diver 300M</a> with a Master Chronometer movement and one of Omega's \"wave dials,\" you have to step up to a 42mm case and a $5,200 price tag. As I said – something for everyone.</p>\n\n<p><i>$4,400; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watch-omega-seamaster-diver-300m-co-axial-41-mm-21230412003001/" target=\"_blank\"><i>omegawatches.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Oris Divers Sixty-Five Bronze Bezel 40mm"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["4baca175-9d39-4790-8efa-d673719c8022"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Oris's Divers Sixty-Five collection has been a hit with vintage enthusiasts for a while now, and for good reason. The watches are easy to wear, they look great, and they offer outstanding value. At just a hair over $2,000, the 40mm version of the Divers Sixty-Five is a <i>ton</i> of watch for the money. If you want to go for an even more vintage-tinged version, there's one at 36mm that I also really like (though I understand it will be too small as a sport watch for many people). This is the watch on the market that I think most closely parallels the BB58, with its warm accents (in this case thanks to a bronze bezel) and no-nonsense design. The movement isn't quite as advanced as Tudor's (it's an Oris caliber based on a Sellita SW 200-1) and it does have a date, but it's one third less expensive, too. As far as pure alternatives go, this is the ticket if you're looking for one.</p>\n\n<p><i>$2,200; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.oris.ch/en/watch/oris-divers-sixty-five/01-733-7747-4354-07-8-17-18/" target=\"_blank\"><i>oris.ch</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"IWC Pilot's Watch Mark XVIII"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["63fb10b8-501b-46e0-a179-9e9dc3d7f0e8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is the wild card of the bunch. Yes, I know this isn't a dive watch, and thus it's kind of a wonky comparison. But hear me out. If you're looking to spend a few thousand dollars on a great everyday sport watch, this has to be part of the conversation. It's a total classic and it's got some historical vibes, despite not having a single explicit vintage homage on it. I think IWC made a great choice a few years back to shrink the Mark's case from 41mm back to 40mm. The result is that the Mark XVIII wears better than ever. The bracelet on this watch is crazy comfortable and the dial is a masterclass in tool-watch design. It is more than a third more expensive than the BB58, but it's a watch you should definitely try on if you're in the market.</p>\n\n<p><i>$5,150; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.iwc.com/us/en/watch-collections/pilot-watches/iw327015-pilot_s-watch-mark-xviii.html/" target=\"_blank\"><i>iwc.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["74ed52c8-c23e-42bf-a4a4-948c205d32c9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight might have made waves when it was first released, but that's no guarantee of longterm success. Here we are, nearly two years since that initial frenzy, and I think the watch is more appealing than ever. I'm not the only one either – wait lists are still months-long at most retailers here in the United States. The watch starts with a great idea and then delivers on it big time. You get a vintage-inspired watch that doesn't look like a cheesy replica, in a size and build quality that make it an outstanding daily wearer. The way it bridges modern and vintage watches so effectively still impresses me.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Whether you're a new collector looking to buy his or her first serious piece or a seasoned veteran who probably doesn't need another watch at all, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight is well worth taking a look at. It's a watch that shines in its simplicity, doing a whole lot with not very much at all, and it only gets better the more time you spend with it. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>For more on the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.tudorwatch.com/watches/black-bay-fifty-eight/m79030n-0001#\" target=\"_blank\"><i>visit Tudor online</i></a><i>.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>Visit Hodinkee affiliate Crown & Caliber to shop pre-owned <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.crownandcaliber.com/collections/tudor-watches?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=disclosure-box\%22 target=\"_blank\">Tudor</a> models</p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"6db4fdcf-d5e2-4e7c-8c24-397ec372defb","container_id":7302,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1576474169600-66gacnzvxhp-586c643865ca54e4281ce6947fab1e7b/291A0232_2880.jpg","width":2880,"height":1650,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2019-12-15T13:32:25.848-05:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T08:52:10.598-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1576474169600-66gacnzvxhp-586c643865ca54e4281ce6947fab1e7b/291A0232_2880.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tudor-black-bay-fifty-eight-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight","tags":[]},{"id":7279,"slug":"audemars-piguet-royal-oak-15500s-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 15500ST","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2019-12-12T08:48:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2019-12-09T16:49:47.892-05:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:08:06.694-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>Spending time with the newest version of the model that created the luxury sport watch.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":164413,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Editor's Note: This is a translation of one of the first articles that appeared on </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.jp//" target=\"_blank\"><i>HODINKEE Japan</i></a><i>, our joint venture with Hearst Fujingaho that went live last month in Tokyo. In this story, Masaharu reviews his own Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 15500. It is, he says, \"a commemorative watch that I got when it was decided that I would join HODINKEE.\" We will occasionally run articles and videos from our Japanese colleagues, and we welcome them to our team. </i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The focus of this review is going to be how I feel when wearing the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 15500, but before we can get into that it will be helpful to look back at some of the history of this iconic model and how the latest iteration brings something new to the table. Let's get right into it. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"History Of The Royal Oak"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["51eb9f53-0fd8-4a10-b5b6-2f44712dcf2c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Interest in luxury sport watches is at an all-time high. If you ask about the origins of the modern luxury sports watch, inevitably you start with the Royal Oak by Audemars Piguet. </p>\n\n<p>The original Royal Oak was the Ref. 5402ST, which was designed by the not yet famous watch designer Gérald Genta in 1971 and announced at Baselworld 1972.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["58ad0deb-ead5-4888-a9e5-095780f0c655"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The name of this model is taken from the HMS Royal Oak battleships of the Royal Navy, and the distinctive octagonal bezel is said to be inspired by these ships’ portholes. (Genta, however, stated that the shape was actually inspired by a deep-sea diver’s helmet.) The Royal Navy christened four battleships between 1769 and 1914 with this name, which actually has even deeper roots. The original Royal Oak was an oak tree that saved the life of Charles II of England, who hid inside it while eluding capture in 1651 in the midst of the Puritan Revolution. At present, this tree serves as a symbol of Great Britain.</p>\n\n<p>Numerous models of the Royal Oak have been produced over the years, but the models that I will cover here are the original Ref.5402ST, which allows us to explore the model’s origin, and the stainless-steel models produced since the 2000s, specifically Ref.15300ST and Ref.15400ST, which represent the main collection.</p>\n\n<p>Let’s take a look at a simple timeline.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1972 – Royal Oak Ref. 5402ST"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["9e8b8d86-440f-4315-b865-7cf2f47970e2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The original Royal Oak Ref. 5402ST was manufactured between 1972 and the late 1970s. As part of the first lot, Audemars Piguet produced 1,000 watches without an alphabetic character in the manufacturing number. Then it manufactured four series, labeled A through D, based on slight differences in the specifications, such as with the clasp or the movement.</p>\n\n<p>In the 1970s, Audemars Piguet mainly manufactured small dress watches equipped with complex mechanisms. The Royal Oak was its first sport watch and an extremely innovative watch.</p>\n\n<p>Despite the fact that it is a sport watch that is water-resistant up to 50 meters, it has the thin design of a dress watch; its case is only 7mm thick. Thinness inevitably leads to better comfort, but it is extremely difficult to combine durability and thinness. Genta was able to achieve this by giving the case a two-piece construction and placing a gasket between the bezel and the case.</p>\n\n<p>The design contains several distinctive characteristics as well. One example is that both satin and polished finishes are applied to the integrated bracelet and the stainless-steel parts to provide a three-dimensional appearance.</p>\n\n<p>In these ways, the Royal Oak was a highly innovative watch, but it was not rated very highly at the time. It had a case with a diameter of 39mm, which was outstandingly large at the time, which earned it the nickname “Jumbo.” Another reason for its poor reception was that it cost as much as a gold watch, despite being made of stainless steel.</p>\n\n<p>It took some time before the Royal Oak was accepted by the market. But it went on to influence many different watches and today is a model coveted by many.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"2005 – Royal Oak Ref. 15300ST"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["3cef9399-9e56-4061-87e3-b826abf96e97"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Royal Oak Ref.15300ST was released in 2005. The stainless-steel case has a diameter of 39mm and a thickness of 9.4mm. The most significant characteristic of the design is that a large AP logo is placed at the 12 o’clock position, and the dial plate is available in 3 colors: white, black, and blue.</p>\n\n<p>The case size of 39mm, which is the same as the original 5402ST and current Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra Thin 15202ST39mm, makes it a perfect model for people with thin wrists. This model is also water resistant to up to 50 meters.</p>\n\n<p>The movement in this model is the AP's Caliber 3120, a low-beat movement of 3Hz (21,600 beats per hour).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"2012 – Royal Oak Ref. 15400ST"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["181c1a3c-f0c4-46b4-83ce-bb26ec1e5253"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The 15400ST was released in 2012 as an update to the 15300ST. There are several differences between the two models, but the main difference is the size of the case. The case for the 15400ST is 41mm, which is 2mm larger than the case diameter of the 15300ST. The case is also slightly thicker, increasing by 0.4mm to 9.8mm.</p>\n\n<p>At 41mm, it has more of a presence, and has proportions that are sportier and more modern. Meanwhile, the same Audemars Piguet Caliber 3120 is used for the movement. The familiar engraved gold rotor can be seen on the caseback.</p>\n\n<p>There were also numerous design changes. The large AP logo at the 12 o’clock position was removed in favor of a double-baton index and a small AP logo. This return to the double-baton index pleased fans of the vintage edition, who considered it an improvement.</p>\n\n<p>Since the movement was not changed, despite the increased size, the date display window moves slightly closer to the center, but the extra space is filled by a stub. This is not something that always shows, but when the case is turned over, there is a flaw in that the movement is small compared to the diameter of the case, giving a slightly unbalanced impression.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>That's the history. Now, let’s take a look at the newest model, Ref. 15500.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Royal Oak Ref. 15500ST"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["adb38a2d-e328-4eee-925e-aedc60c3d75c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Ref. 15500ST is the latest stainless-steel Royal Oak. Because the CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet was a hot topic at SIHH 2019, the new 15500ST did not receive as much attention as it deserved. </p>\n\n<p>There is no significant deviation from the basic Royal Oak design, but there are some major updates and changes.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b251c676-9e91-40f3-8a95-f6e500cdb836"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The most important update for the 15500 has to be the movement. The 15500 is equipped with the Caliber 4302, which is the same self-winding movement in the new CODE 11.59 collection.</p>\n\n<p>This newly developed movement has several improvements on its predecessor, Caliber 3120. That low-beat movement makes 21,600 beats per hour; Caliber 4302 makes 28,800 beats per hour. The power reserve has also been increased from 60 hours to 70 hours.</p>\n\n<p>In addition to its improved specifications, the movement now has a diameter of 32mm, providing better balance with the diameter of the case. Also, the skeletonized 22k-gold rotor makes it easier to appreciate the beauty of the movement through the exhibition back. All parts, including the bridges, are adorned with Geneva stripes, and the bevels are polished, giving this sport watch the beauty of a dress watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["ba68d0e2-8d86-47e1-940d-21137e1a34ba"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of the major design distinctions of the Royal Oak is its dial plate, which has a square pattern called the “Grande Tapisserie.” When you take a close look at the “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, you see that the convex squares have a line pattern and the concave portions have a grain pattern, demonstrating the degree of detail in the design.</p>\n\n<p>The dial plate for the current model is available in three colors: blue, gray, and black. The blue dial plate is only available at AP boutiques.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1f92f007-dd14-4b97-9ad3-2991e35188d1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Let’s take a look at the differences from the 15400. The minute track around the circumference of the 15400 was carved into the Tapisserie pattern, but the minute track on the 15500 is carved into a new flat surface around the circumference. Also, the inscription of “AUTOMATIC” at the 6 o’clock position has been removed, while the “AP” and “AUDEMARS PIGUET” logos at the 12 o’clock position have been expanded slightly. I thought that removing “AUTOMATIC” might throw off the balance and make the dial plate seem lacking, but it actually leaves a good, clean impression.</p>\n\n<p>In addition, the indexes and hands have been renewed. Although the shapes are faithful to the past models, they have been made thicker, resulting in a sporty look due to the greater surface area that the luminous paint is applied to. The indexes have been shortened very slightly, emphasizing the differentiation from the 15202. Furthermore, if you look at the second hand closely, you can see that its counterweight has the same shape as the indexes.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["76f584cd-672f-41a9-9722-a3f232d4cc71"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Finally, what I feel is a major update is the position of the date display. Thanks to the new movement, the 15500's date window is located right next to the minute track on the circumference of the dial plate. Fans of the original 1972 model will say that it has returned to its correct position.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Case And Bracelet"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ab6935d2-eecc-44ef-a21c-4ab9666462f1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["6090028b-1d97-448a-9503-cb1f7721309b","3630e7b0-821f-40bc-a0c8-114bd1583b53"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The 15500 has a case diameter of 41mm, the same as the 15400. The integrated bracelet, the octagonal bezel, and the finishing are mostly the same as before, but you will notice differences when you look closely.</p>\n\n<p>While the case diameter is the same, the thickness has increased slightly from 9.80mm to 10.4mm due to the new movement. When I actually wear each watch, the difference of 0.6mm is not very noticeable. Considering the benefits of the new movement, this can be considered a trade-off, or even a positive change in terms of convenience.</p>\n\n<p>A screw-down crown is used again for the 15500, which is still water resistant to 50 meters. The familiar mix of satin and polished finishes is still present, maintaining the beauty of the watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["df9d98f5-db78-4fb6-b4c6-da28e35b3b16","d2b5f05b-8be4-425a-b9a8-0e758c0c5c6a"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The bracelet makes an extremely sharp impression, but the edges are not pointy and do not hurt to the touch. In addition, the multiple parts with satin and polished finishes give an air of three-dimensionality and luxury. In the 1970s, many watches were designed with leather straps. But from the beginning, Genta always designed the case and bracelet together to enhance the overall sense of unity and completion.</p>\n\n<p>Examining the watch closely, we see that this new model does not deviate from the original Royal Oak concept that Gérald Genta envisioned. It is very clear that Royal Oak traditions live on today in the details.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["35952e37-b7f1-43dc-b652-35b2f9aa82ea"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The first thing that you notice when you start to use the Royal Oak is the beauty of the light that reflects off of the polished surfaces. It shines like no other watch that I have ever worn and reflects even the smallest amount of light brilliantly. Therefore, it has a great presence when you are wearing a T-shirt or other pieces of clothing that show the arms. Another factor that contributes to its presence is the 41mm size.</p>\n\n<p>Because of the limited range of movement of the integrated lug and bracelet, this watch is not the most comfortable. Depending on how thick your arm is, it is possible that it is not suitable for you. Thankfully, despite the fact that my arm is relatively small -- just 6.3 inches around -- I did not feel that the watch was too big, and I became accustomed to it right away.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["6dbfb17a-19c4-4860-ac78-530382d95d70"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The appeal of luxury sport watches is their great versatility and ease of use. They go well with casual clothing because they are sport watches, but they also look good in formal situations when you wear a suit. Although the 15500 is slightly thicker than the 15400, it still falls in the category of thin watches and easily slips under shirt sleeves.</p>\n\n<p>Personally, I really like the gray-dial version. The blue watch that is only available at boutiques is popular, as it was expected to be. But I believe that the gray watch is an all-purpose model that goes with any type of clothing because the tone of the dial matches the tone of the stainless-steel case.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Although the satin polish is extremely beautiful, scratches really stand out on this watch. I have been picking up small scratches without noticing, especially on the bezel and the bracelet. It's interesting: Since I obtained a Royal Oak, I feel that I have become more careful about handling other things as well as I handle my watch. And I should stress that the brilliance of this watch is truly beautiful and is a factor behind the great satisfaction of owning it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The 15500 costs $19,200. At this price, numerous watches can be considered competitors, but I will compare it with other luxury sport watches that are water-resistant and have integrated stainless-steel bracelets.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Chopard Alpine Eagle"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["9c199b91-d197-473b-808c-0a7c76c5be1d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Alpine Eagle is Chopard’s newest luxury sport watch. It is based on a model called the St. Moritz from 1980. This watch is made of a stainless steel called Lucent Steel A223, with high durability and reflectivity, that was developed for this watch over a period of four years. This watch is perfect if you prioritize avoiding scratches.</p>\n\n<p>The movement is equipped with the Chopard 01.01-C chronometer, which makes 28,800 beats per hour, has a power reserve of 60 hours, and is COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) certified. It is water resistant up to 100 meters.</p>\n\n<p>Like the Royal Oak’s “Grande Tapisserie,” the dial of this watch is very distinctive, and the fact that you can enjoy a design that will likely be handed down is another good point. It is also worth mentioning that this watch is more affordable.</p>\n\n<p><i>$12,900; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.chopard.com/intl/watches/men-s-watches/alpine-eagle/" target=\"_blank\"><i>chopard.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Vacheron Constantin Overseas 4500V"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["21ed98f5-64a9-4d48-9b53-d15a7cc9a6cd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Overseas by Vacheron Constantin plays an important role in the field of luxury sport watches. The movement is equipped with the Caliber 5100 that has obtained the Geneva Seal. It makes 28,800 beats per hour, has a power reserve of 60 hours, and is water resistant up to 150 meters. Compared to the Royal Oak, it is sturdier and gives a more modern impression.</p>\n\n<p>Another aspect of this watch is that it boasts an interchangeable system in which the steel bracelet that is attached when you purchase the watch can easily be replaced with a rubber strap or a leather strap, without you needing any tools. The fact that a single watch can be used in various situations can be considered a great benefit.</p>\n\n<p><i>$18,900; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.vacheron-constantin.com/en2/watches/overseas/overseas-self-winding-4500v-110a-b126.html/" target=\"_blank\"><i>vacheron-constantin.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref.5711"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["ad2f10f7-23ec-44f4-b403-7ba5ee740999"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>To be honest, I wondered whether or not I should include this watch in this list, since the Nautilus is nearly impossible to obtain, as you all know. Nevertheless, it is a model that cannot be left out of a discussion of luxury sport watches.</p>\n\n<p>The Nautilus was designed by Gérald Genta following the Royal Oak. Although the bracelet is integrated, it is extremely smooth and more comfortable compared to the Royal Oak. In addition, the design and finish of the Nautilus gives a more reserved, relaxed impression compared to the Royal Oak. If you prefer dressy over sporty, this watch may be for you. If you can get one.</p>\n\n<p><i>$30,620; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.patek.com/en/collection/nautilus/5711-1A-010/" target=\"_blank\"><i>patek.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["2751d542-f2aa-4f14-8231-d2ec4d30e5aa"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In summary, the newest Royal Oak 15500 inherits the Royal Oak’s DNA and benefits from certain updates. The movement has been improved in terms of its appearance and functionality in many ways, and the adjustments to the elements of its dial give it a sportier impression overall. I enjoy the 41mm size and don't find myself wishing this was the ref. 15202 Extra-Thin at all. This is the mainline, core Royal Oak – and for good reason.</p>\n\n<p>However, you will need to be careful. Even if you already have a collection of several wonderful watches, you will surely be lured by the brilliance of this watch to reach for it every morning. I know because this has happened to me.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["0ea76861-631e-4137-a1ee-04168109d12e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Please <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.audemarspiguet.com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak/15500ST.OO.1220ST.01//" target=\"_blank\">visit Audemars Piguet online</a> for more. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>Visit Hodinkee affiliate Crown & Caliber to shop pre-owned <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.crownandcaliber.com/collections/audemars-piguet-watches?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=disclosure-box\%22 target=\"_blank\">Audemars Piguet</a> models.</p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"0bae334d-95ad-4152-80ee-e2f1b852872b","container_id":7279,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1575928182-530844abe9724159864759386fdc919a/5658cafde626c903d102b7afacd25a3e","width":6000,"height":4000,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2019-12-09T16:49:48.521-05:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T08:52:28.079-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1575928182-530844abe9724159864759386fdc919a/5658cafde626c903d102b7afacd25a3e?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-15500s-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 15500ST","tags":[]},{"id":7103,"slug":"the-omega-speedmaster-racing-master-chronometer","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2019-11-08T15:05:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2019-10-31T14:48:31.569-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:03:21.836-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>Taking the Speedy Racing for a few hot laps. </p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6113352304001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":156448,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When Buzz Aldrin wore his Speedmaster on the moon in 1969, it instantly propelled the watch to horological stardom. It would define the reputation of the watch for the next 50 years – and it surely will continue to do so well past 2019. It has guided Omega's communications concerning the Speedmaster for half a century. And if you've been a regular reader of HODINKEE, then there's absolutely no way you've missed the various moon landing 50th anniversary announcements, watches, and media campaigns. Omega has released no less than three Speedmaster models that have been tied to the anniversary. In three different metals, no less: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/omega-speedmaster-apollo-11-anniversary-limited-edition-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">gold</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-omega-speedmaster-professional-moonwatch-caliber-321-platinum-2/" target=\"_blank\">platinum</a>, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/omega-speedmaster-apollo-11-50th-anniversary-limited-edition-in-depth/" target=\"_blank\">steel</a>. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["5d69e1a5-c805-47a5-b44d-834b7e4e4022"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As a space nut and lover of horology, it really doesn't get much more exciting than a watch that was worn on the moon. What else ties two passions together better than the Speedmaster? But Moonwatch fatigue is a real thing – and it's okay to admit it. The Moonwatch is an absolutely fantastic watch, it's an icon for a reason. However, it's easy to forget something: The Speedmaster was not initially developed for spacefaring applications. It was sheer luck that <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/every-watch-clock-and-timer-that-went-to-the-moon/" target=\"_blank\"><u>put the Speedmaster in the right place at the right time</u></a> to become flight qualified by NASA. The watch would have to be engineered to withstand the rigorous testing that NASA put it through, and of course it passed. It's an exceptional chronograph. But why was it so good? </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["bb269a04-7348-4108-a0df-9af5db7dc305"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Because it was made to perform under the kind of abuse that comes from pushing a race car to the limit. That's why it's called a \"Speedmaster\" and not a \"Moonmaster\" or \"Spacemaster.\" In 1957, Omega debuted a chronograph wristwatch that was meant to serve the growing amateur motorsport market; it was the same year that Roger Penske wheeled his Fuelie Corvette up the Bellefontaine Hill Climb and inspired others to do the same. It was a time in American motoring history when the average enthusiast could participate in any one of the open motorsport events across the country. The same sort of \"gentleman driver\" movement was happening across the Atlantic. The safety requirements to race were less stringent and the laws surrounding driving fast on public roads more lenient; it's often referred to as the golden age of motorsports.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["455aed73-7101-4097-ac2c-409d9a2f514d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The cockpit of a race car is far more rudimentary than a Redstone, Atlas, or Saturn V rocket, sure, but it's a great testbed for a potentially spacefaring chronograph. It's easy to see why the Speedmaster was ready to fill such an important role, one that it was never intended to. It had already undergone years of testing in a similar environment. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Moonwatch is still produced today in much the same form as it was in '69, and that model often steals the spotlight in the collecting world. But Omega never forgot about the origins of the Speedmaster. Although the racing line might play second fiddle to the universally lauded Moonwatch, a model dedicated to racing has consistently, and quietly, been in the Speedmaster lineup since its inception. This Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer is the most recent. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Speedmaster Racing Editions Through The Ages"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["d0e3b549-410c-4cfd-af98-360ca101cea7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's a bit murky, but the first Speedmaster with the \"racing\" dial is thought to have emerged in 1968 as a variant of the 145.022-68. Instead of the standard black dial, it featured a grey dial with an orange chronograph hand. The running seconds counter and hands appeared in white, while the chronograph functions appeared in orange. The model is highly sought after by collectors, but little scholarship exists concerning it. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Much more common is a 1969 model that featured a very similar dial know as the Speedmaster MK II \"Racing.\" It’s also referred to as the \"exotic\" dial variant. I detailed the origin story of the MK II <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hodinkee-editors-pick-their-very-favorite-speedmaster-or-try-to/" target=\"_blank\"><u>here</u></a> in regard to its general improvements over the Moonwatch. It was never an enormous hit with collectors, but despite this, Omega <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-speedmaster-mark-ii-an-update-to-the-1969-space-tested-classic/" target=\"_blank\"><u>re-released the watch</u></a> in 2014. The hues of the color palette in the dial were changed slightly, and more luminescence was added along with a date window, but it stuck to the original script for the most part, aside from a slight uptick in the case size. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["14a3e252-9cee-4975-9d7c-b5e35f3bd95f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But let's backtrack to 2004. The Japanese market received a limited edition of 2,004 pieces of the 3570.40 with the 1861 movement inside and a 'racing' dial. It was wildly popular and still trades for significantly more than its original retail. In terms of a direct lineage, this modern model is the most true to the original 145.022-68 \"Racing\" from '68. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["8a5a2ab6-2981-4690-ab97-4d990c3f75c3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When Omega introduced George Daniels's Co-axial escapement, a number of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-speedmaster-racing-live-pics/" target=\"_blank\">racing-inspired Speedmasters followed</a>. The 326.32.40.50.06.001 is part of the racing family, but the \"checkered flag\" seconds track on the dial is absent. After the aforementioned Japanese Limited Edition, the Speedmaster with the closest visual link is the subject of this Week On The Wrist: the reference 329.30.44.51.01.002, otherwise known as the Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["fa103e2e-897f-47bf-8991-fffb1bc76a83"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Every model mentioned thus far falls under the \"Professional\" line of Speedmasters, but it would be negligent not to mention the line of racing-inspired Speedmasters introduced in 1996: The Schumacher Edition, ref. 175.0032. This watch falls under the Speedmaster Reduced line, and came in red, yellow, and blue. The blue version appeared again with a CART (Championship Auto Racing Teams) logo on the dial. The Schumacher range utilized a modified ETA 2890-02 automatic movement dubbed 'cal. 1141' by Omega. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["e4351b22-f0b0-4a2a-8afe-7b9c963980ac"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The colorful Schumacher watches did indeed feature the \"checkered flag\" seconds track, but the orange and maroon accents of the original '68 Speedmaster Racing were absent. In the year 2000, this design feature reemerged, however. A limited edition of 6,000 pieces was released as ref. 3518.50.00. It still fell into the Speedmaster Reduced family, but it was visually much closer to the racing dials of yore.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["4ecf2dde-c9e6-4e78-a69d-40696502d428"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The racing design DNA has been present all along, cropping up every other decade or so in a model that was never enormously popular at the time. But that's changing; as Moonwatch values rise, more collectors are paying attention to the racing models.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Tachymeter And Visual Execution"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Speedmaster was the first watch to feature a tachymeter on the bezel as opposed to being incorporated into the dial. This opened up the dial, allowing for a better visual balance between the indices (which are fashioned from white gold on the Racing Master Chronometer) and the seconds track, but it also gave the tachymeter more room to breathe. Decoupling the tachymeter from the rest of the bezel ultimately made the watch more legible, and in turn, easier to use. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["2a69c569-5cc1-4962-9bb8-817c8039fe8b","a3eb25b4-b983-47d1-8dda-1458778c0043"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The bezel on the Speedmaster Racing Chronometer takes advantage of Omega's Liquidmetal technology. Since it's a ceramic-based material, it allows for incredibly sharp lines between the graduated scale and the black background. Standard Moonwatch bezel inserts are printed on aluminum, and even though the printing is sharp, it's not quite as sharp as the contrast that's created by Liquidmetal, not to mention the added benefit of scratch and fade resistance. From a collector's perspective, there's nothing like the ghost fade of a vintage Speedmaster bezel, but the Master Racing Chronometer doesn't stick to tradition in that regard, and that makes it all the better when it comes to actually observing the tachymeter. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["56ad1400-fd50-4f49-b6db-639cf33cd8d9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"Tachymetre\" appears in orange on the bezel, just another subtle nod to the model's racing heritage. There's a visual distinction that clearly divides the functionality of the Racing line. On the original \"Racing\" Speedy, chronograph functions appeared in orange, and timekeeping in white. It's been that way since 1968 with the first Racing model, but the Master Racing Chronometer flips the script. With this execution, chronograph functions appear in white, and timekeeping in orange. Omega is particularly skilled at creating visual clarity between the functions in its chronographs, this was especially true in the 1960s and '70s. Take a look at the flightmaster, with its color-coded crowns that correspond to functions on the dial: a crown marked with blue for the blue second time zone hand, and a pusher marked with red and yellow to operate the chronograph functions. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["58010b05-1dbd-4737-a557-a27001076420"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Due to the inclusion of the Caliber 9900, which we'll get into in a bit, the Master Racing Chronometer uses a two-register design with a date window at six. This cleans up the dial and creates a bit of welcome negative space, but I am partial to the triple-register layout used in every Racing model until this one. It's a purist thing. Running seconds still appears at 9 o'clock, but elapsed hours and minutes now appear on a single register at the 3 o'clock position. Combining these two measurements keeps it neat and compact, but it can be slightly frustrating to decipher if you're accustomed to scanning a typical triple-register layout. You read the elapsed time like you would read the standard time. There's a date window at 6 o’clock that I could do without. I think Dominic Toretto from <i>The Fast and the Furious</i> films hints at the sort of spiritual clarity that can be experienced from the pursuit of motorsport when he proclaims to a young Brian Spilner, \"I live my life a quarter mile at a time. Nothing else matters: not the mortgage, not the store, not my team and all their bullshit. For those 10 seconds or less, I'm free.\" The chronograph is the only function that's needed to time those 10 seconds. It doesn't matter what day it is.</p>\n\n<p>I'm being slightly facetious here, but there's certainly some merit to subtracting functions instead of adding them. It's a philosophy that’s prevalent at the racetrack: Remove all unnecessary weight and superfluous systems. The fewer things to fail or go wrong, the better. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c51f4e3f-ea88-4325-ad39-3c12fac08b7c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Caliber 9900"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Omega's caliber 9900 is a thing of beauty, so it makes sense that this is the only Speedmaster with racing heritage that features a display caseback. It is their flagship automatic chronograph movement, after all. The column-wheel mechanism is even marked on the movement, much like how switches inside the racing cockpit are marked according to the function they perform. This isn't intentional, but it's certainly thematic tie-in. Speaking of the column wheel, it uses a vertical clutch system, meaning there are no teeth to jam together when the chronograph is engaged. The result is the absence of a 'jump' when the chronograph hand is engaged. For the technical car folks, one can conceptualize the vertical clutch mechanism like a synchromesh gearbox, where a synchronized engagement occurs, versus a dog box transmission, where the teeth are essentially forced into a drive gear without any synchronization, much like how a horizontal chronograph clutch works.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["05e4ba0e-ef7d-4be1-9b4b-abd25e19583b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Cal. 9900 is more than just a pretty movement. It's dual-rated with COSC and METAS certifications. METAS refers to the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology, and these folks actually evaluate the testing procedures that Omega uses as an additional layer of reassurance. All very <i>meta.</i> And of course the COSC certification is backed by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, found on many high-grade movements. This is where the \"Master\" moniker is derived from. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["196a632c-9813-46fa-b2df-bd0f69ab649f","9b620033-6236-4f7b-93ff-6548a54ecf36"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer isn't small. It wears nothing like the CK 2998 case that's used in the First Omega In Space, or the HODINKEE H10 Limited Edition. I wear the latter frequently and find the case proportions near perfect. The Racing Master Chronometer doesn't necessarily tuck under a cuff neatly, and it certainly doesn't have the same sort of feel as a vintage Moonwatch. It has a different sort of wrist presence. A commanding presence. It's larger, by diameter, than a Moonwatch, at 44.25mm, but don't let that number immediately put you off. I typically prefer watches sized right at 39mm, and this one, surprisingly, was not difficult at all to wear. In fact, it felt well-sized. It comes down to the Racing's lug-to-lug measurement of 49.8mm. A normal Moonwatch is 48mm. Motorsport is all about minimizing millimeters wherever you can, but in this case, the 1.8mm doesn't make a huge difference. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f8d8ef0b-3d94-4e87-b28f-de3ea52c6a36"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Wearing the Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer entails experiencing a certain heft that you'll have to either enjoy or put up with, depending on your personality. It doesn't necessarily fade into the routine rhythms of daily wear. Like I mentioned, there's a certain presence attached to this Speedy. The bright orange accents and deep-black bezel also draw the eye to it in exactly the way that the monotone motif of the Moonwatch does not. It's not as well known or popular as the standard Speedy, so chances are you won't run into someone wearing one, even at a watch event. The watch is a total sleeper. It's packed with Omega's latest tech – the 9900 is a flagship movement, like I mentioned. This Speedmaster never really got much attention in the way others did. And that's not to say it doesn't deserve it. Perhaps the intersection between racing fans and Speedmaster fans is relatively small, which would be odd considering the watch's roots. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f4600062-c299-4872-ba9d-415504728699","dc2c2faf-e925-49a6-a89e-5aae6fe557d2"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Competition On The Grid"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Rolex Cosmograph Daytona</strong></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["2a9dd163-4b85-455b-bc67-1ac8280d3429"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Daytona and Master Racing Chronometer are leading the pack in this segment as far as I'm concerned. Let's call this the GT1 class, the foremost class in sports car racing. Contenders don't mess around in the class. Both watches utilize ceramic tachymeter bezels. Both boast superlative movements: the caliber 4130 in the Daytona; the caliber 9900 in the Speedmaster. The former, a 72-hour power reserve; the latter, a 60-hour power reserve. The Daytona rings in at $11,800. That's not a massive premium over the $8,400 Omega – but here's why the Omega has a shot at passing the Daytona and pulling out ahead: You simply can't get your hands on a Daytona, while the Speedmaster is available at most boutiques. In the racing world, parts availability is crucial if you want to remain competitive. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong> Zenith El Primero Chronomaster</strong></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["638af824-f4f5-4967-be8e-c98f931a2746"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is the GT2 class. The Zenith is priced at $6,700 and offers many of the same features as the Racing Master Chronometer: An automatic chronograph (one of the first, in fact), a triple-register layout akin to the former Racing Speedmaster models, and a date window. But the Zenith is lacking one key design element that the Speedmaster prominently boasts, and that's the tachymeter scale decoupled from the dial and placed on the bezel. The Zenith is also visually rooted in tradition more so than the Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer, which has a tech-forward appearance due to the Liquidmetal bezel. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>TAG Heuer Monza Heritage Caliber 17</strong></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["ca6391fc-7943-4b8e-ab16-69223fa44691"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Even though the Carrera and Autavia have strong links to motorsport, most modern iterations simply don't feature the tachymeter scale (the \"Siffert\" Caliber 11 does, however). The Monza prominently features the tachymeter scale, and that puts it squarely on the grid with the Speedmaster Racing. The Monza was the first of Heuer's watches to get the stealthy PVD treatment in 1976, and in that sense it was very tech-forward for the time, just the Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer is today. A direct comparison can also be made with the date window at 6 o'clock and the dual-register layout. The Monza is priced at $5,450.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Crossing The Finish Line"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I won't say it's impossible to go to the moon, but it's much more likely you'll be able to head down to the local racetrack to turn a few laps. That's where the charm of the Speedmaster Racing Chronometer comes to light – it can actually be used for what it was intended for. I'm sure the Omega engineers and designers who created the Speedmaster way back in 1957 were thrilled to see it go to the moon, and that's the sort of serendipitous occurrence that happens when you make a great chronograph. But to get my thrills, I'm heading to straight to the track, with the Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer on the wrist. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9a9af2b3-3685-4f54-b16a-89e932b0d498"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>HODINKEE is an authorized retailer of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/omega?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=disclosure-box\%22>Omega watches</a>. Explore our entire collection of Speedmasters <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/speedmaster-collection?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=disclosure-box\%22>here.%22,%22product_ids%22:[%224298125246539%22]},%22type%22:%22Block::DisclosureBox%22}],%22migrated_content%22:true,%22meta_title%22:%22This Omega Speedmaster Is For The Racetrack","meta_description":"The Speedy gets speedy in its natural habitat.","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"6eeca909-9385-45c5-a7d4-db5725bdc087","container_id":7103,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1572547646886-lu50j1tkfl-def2935f52e71c73a0f696daa09e7ec5/291A0936.jpg","width":5546,"height":3120,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2019-10-31T14:48:31.671-04:00","updated_at":"2022-01-07T15:43:21.562-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1572547646886-lu50j1tkfl-def2935f52e71c73a0f696daa09e7ec5/291A0936.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-omega-speedmaster-racing-master-chronometer","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer","tags":[]},{"id":6938,"slug":"apple-watch-series-5-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Apple Watch Series 5 Edition In Titanium","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2019-09-18T06:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2019-09-16T16:44:29.270-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:03:22.552-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>A new metal and a new display make for a surprisingly revolutionary Apple Watch.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106669521001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":214650,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>September means a lot of things. The muggy New York summer is winding down. Watchmakers are coming back from their summer holidays. And it's new Apple Watch time. This is now the fifth year that I've made the annual pilgrimage out to Silicon Valley to be a part of the gaggle of reporters literally tripping over one another to be first to get their hands on Apple’s latest and greatest.</p>\n\n<p>For me though, the best part of this is the opportunity to check in and see how Apple is thinking about the Watch. It's important to remember that while Apple Watch is now five years old, it's still a relatively young product and one that’s still maturing at a relatively quick clip. Each year doesn't just mean a faster chip set or more battery life – it means a reimagining of the scope and purpose of the Apple Watch and the way it can fit into customers' lives. <i>That'</i>s something worth getting excited about. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["50e9f392-5dd9-4ef3-b842-c8ff9e3a855c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Because <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/apple-watch-series-4-review/" target=\"_blank\">last year's Apple Watch Series 4</a> was such a massive leap forward, consensus before last week's event was that this year's release would be much more minor. In hindsight that feels foolish and the Apple Watch Series 5 is yet another big jump in fit, finish, and overall experience. </p>\n\n<p>I've spent a week with the Apple Watch Series 5 Edition in the new titanium case, and it's given me an awful lot to think about. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Edition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["770b444a-22f1-47ed-a448-df9fb3b0d281"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The version of the Series 5 that Apple loaned me for this review is the brand new Edition model in brushed titanium. We'll get into all the details of what this means later, but it's worth taking a minute to look back at the Apple Watch Edition lineup over and how this collection of premium Watch models has changed over the last half-decade. </p>\n\n<p>When the first Apple Watch was announced on September 9, 2014, one of the things that got the most media attention was Apple's decision to release a whole collection of models in solid gold. You totally forgot about that, right? Well, they did it. The OG Apple Watch Edition models were made in solid 18k rose and yellow gold with matching buckles, special straps, and higher-end packaging. Prices started at $10,000 and ran right up to $17,000. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["db0d7a37-f131-4bd3-92a2-b43c3a8fecf8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This was a clear shot across the bow from Apple that the Watch was a luxury fashion product as much as it was a technology product. Apple is home to some of the greatest marketing minds on the planet and this is a great example of their genius. From photos of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.theverge.com/2015/4/20/8459293/beyonce-gold-apple-watch-link-bracelet/" target=\"_blank\">Beyoncé</a> and Karl Lagerfeld wearing gold Apple Watches on custom gold bracelets to massive spreads in <i>Vogue</i>, the Apple Watch was instantly a part of the conversation. Sure, they caught flack in some circles and others thought the whole thing was a stunt, but it got people talking. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>When it debuted in 2015, the Apple Watch Hermès Edition might have surprised some people – but not us. The French luxury and design house has a long history working with watchmakers and the partnership with Apple seemed like a logical next step. Ben wrote a lengthy piece explaining why, and you should definitely give it a read.</p>\n\n<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/what-hermes-means-to-watch-collectors-apple-watch-hermes/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Click here to check out Ben's original story from 2015.</i></a></p>","title":"Hermès & Watches","images":["1c413ea6-b7ab-44bd-92c5-c6cf12519bbd"],"alignment":"right"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When the Series 2 debuted in 2016, these models were suspiciously absent. Apple mostly declined to comment about it, simply saying that the collection would be evolving over the years and this was part of that. We still don't know how many gold Apple Watches were sold, but most analysts think the number was pretty small, relatively speaking. When you're talking about Apple, \"small numbers\" could easily mean tens or hundreds of thousands of units.</p>\n\n<p>Then with the Series 3 we got a pair of ceramic models in white and space grey, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/apple-watch-series-3-edition-review/" target=\"_blank\">which Ben reviewed right here</a>. These Edition Watches were priced just a hair over $1,000, so they were still more than twice the price of the introductory models, but they weren't anywhere near the original gold models. I think most of us here around HODINKEE HQ were fans – the Apple Watch's curvy design is perfectly suited to polished ceramic.</p>\n\n<p>That's exactly why I was disappointed to see the Edition collection disappear yet again last year with the release of Series 4. Instead, we got the new gold-colored steel model, which seemed to step in as last year's most luxe option. I like that Apple Watch plenty, but it doesn't have quite the same gravitas as the ceramic.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["47fffcd8-97c8-41b5-ae5e-6c1e8bf14053"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And that brings us to today. For Series 5, Apple re-introduced a white ceramic Edition model (though space grey ceramic is still absent) as well as a pair of Edition models in titanium, one in a matte natural color and one in DLC space black. This is the first time we've seen a titanium Apple Watch and it's an interesting move from Apple. It sits between the steel and ceramic models in terms of price and it offers a more luxurious option that’s still a great choice for people using their Watch as a fitness device. This fusion of function and indulgence fits in extremely well with Apple's current thinking on the Apple Watch as simultaneously a wellness and fashion product. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ef5a2e0a-a377-48e9-b714-368437abe56f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The big question still looms though: Do you really want or need premium materials and increased prices in a device that you're most likely going to want to replace annually (at least for the next few year)? I think that’s still very much a personal decision and it's hard to fault people for coming down on either side. Materials like ceramic and titanium, being both functional and still relatively affordable, make much more sense to me than solid gold at this point, but I'd be very surprised if we didn't continue to see the Edition collection ebb and flow over the coming years. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Apple Watch Series 5"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["8b3992d6-56c4-41da-9e15-ff30df48633d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Apple Watch Series 5 was kind of a surprise. Sure, we obviously knew that Apple was going to release a new Watch this month, that was all but 100% confirmed. But what wasn't expected was the big technological leap that we got. There was chatter about new case materials and maybe some new health tracking features ahead of the release, but the introduction of the always-on display was a big surprise and it's as big a change to the Apple Watch as we've seen so far.</p>\n\n<p>In case you're not familiar, all past Apple Watch models featured displays that would go dark when you weren't looking at them. To show the time, you would raise your wrist and an accelerometer inside the watch would tell it to turn on. This saved power and was key to Apple's \"18-hour, all day battery life\" promise. Sure, there have been tons of other smartwatches from other makers who have had low-power modes and various always-on displays, but this quirky feature was baked into the Apple Watch from day one. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0f063ebe-11a9-49f1-800c-894cb370f48f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The key thing here though is that Apple added this new display without changing the physical size of the Watch models or the battery life. The 44mm and 40mm watches are exactly the same dimensions (which are 44mm x 38mm x 10.7mm for the larger model) as they were in the Series 4, and you still get 18-hour/all-day battery life. This solves what might be the most-heard complaint about the Apple Watch, which is that people don't like having to flick their wrists to read the time. That gesture is so baked into our culture and oftentimes has a rude connotation to it – notice how you feel next time someone overtly checks their watch while you're talking to them, if you have any doubts. Now, a quick glance is all you need and you're good to go.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>For the second volume of The HODINKEE Magazine, our own Ben Clymer had a chance to sit down with Apple Chief Design Officer Jony Ive to talk about the origins of the Apple Watch, its deep ties to traditional horology, and Jony's own taste in watches. This is an unprecedented look inside the creation of one of Apple's most-talked-about products (and a fun one at that).</p>\n\n<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/magazine/jony-ive-apple/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Explore the full feature here.</i></a></p>","title":"Jony Ive On Creating The Apple Watch","images":["ccece650-8808-41f1-92d4-56c697ba8d21"],"alignment":"left"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This meant a lot of software changes for watchOS 6 too. Most importantly, Apple's design team has to reimagine the various watch faces to be flexible enough to run at full power when you’re looking at the watch and in a low-power mode for when the watch is at your side or resting on your desk. For many faces, this means that colors disappear, seconds hands might vanish, and overall brightness diminishes. However, in most cases you still get all (or most) of the key information you need. I'll get into the practical benefits of this in a minute, but spoiler alert: it's a huge deal.</p>\n\n<p>I won't get too nerdy here, but the technology that enables this is called a Low-Temperature Polycrystalline Oxide (LTPO) display. It's still an OLED-based Retina display but it has a dynamic refresh rate, meaning that when the display is in low-power mode it can adjust to refresh just once per second instead of 60+ times per second. That's how you still get all that battery life without sacrificing quality and legibility.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["74c9e2e0-3245-4d78-bba9-6fa11ca887f4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are a few new faces, including the Meridian, Numerals Duo, and Solar Dial, and the faces in general are even more customizable than they used to be. As Apple's offering of straps expands, you've got all kinds of color choices for the watch faces to match. My favorite of the bunch is a new California dial that shows there are some real watch nerds on the Apple design team. I've had mine set in the special \"Edition\" color, which is a great shade of taupe that's only available on the Edition models. Apple has previously had exclusive colors and faces on the Hermès models and Nike+ models, but not the other Edition watches. The fact that it's taupe doesn't hurt anything.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8a8672f4-0ba6-4a13-b8be-41bb4aede43a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are a few other new features, both hardware and software, but whether or not you'll get a lot of value out of them will depend on how you use your Apple Watch (things like a compass, menstrual cycle tracking, and a noise metering app). But no matter what you do, the always-on display is, without a doubt, the most important update the Apple Watch has seen in years.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As far as pricing goes, the titanium Edition models occupy a nice middle ground between the steel and the ceramic, starting at $799 for the 40mm and $849 for the 44mm. Those prices include either a Sport Loop or Sport Band, but you can now swap one of those out for a leather or metal strap for an up-charge instead of having to just purchase additional straps later. Personally, I've always thought that the Sport Bands are the best all-purpose Apple Watch bands and some of the new colors are really great, so for my money I'd stick with the basics.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["e2f26ac6-de74-4726-8c69-48dd244a13d3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I've spent the last week wearing the Apple Watch Series 5 Edition in the 44mm natural titanium variation. When I first took it out of the box and strapped it on, I could immediately feel the difference between this and the more classic steel version that I've been wearing on and off for the last year. The former weighs in at 41.7 grams, while the latter weighs in at 47.8 grams – a difference of 7.1 grams. That might not sound like a not, but it's about 13% and you really do feel it. There's still substance to the titanium Edition though. My complaint with the aluminum models has always been that they’re <i>too</i> light. They feel insubstantial. This is comfortable while still letting you know that you've got something on your wrist.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I also really like the finish on the titanium. Apple describes it simply as \"natural,\" but there's a bit of brushing to it so that the light bounces off of it in a cohesive way. I especially like the way that this brushing accents the curves around the corners and lug area of the case. It has a slightly powdery feel to the touch, which is likely due to a combination of the finishing of the metal itself and a nano-coating that Apple applies to prevent patina from developing. Would I personally prefer a case that takes on some character over time? Sure. But I think I'm probably in the minority there and I appreciate Apples's attention to detail there.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ac803099-9d2c-453b-9f7d-07d810430d88"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1ac227e3-1308-45e8-90bd-730d7b225cb4","794f0ee1-df4c-4830-8402-b435696e0ac5"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As I started wearing the watch around, I found the always-on screen a bit disorienting a first. After years of expecting there to be a shiny black void, I suddenly had something staring back at me even when I wasn't paying it deliberate attention. In a funny way, after the initial weirdness wore off, it actually made the Series 5 feel more natural and comfortable. As someone who's most often wearing an analog watch of some kind or another, I'm very used to more subtle time-checking gestures and to always having my watch's hands and dial visible. Even beyond the functionality, this makes the Series 5 feel more like a watch than any previous Apple Watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["251b60c1-2427-4a52-856a-600ce86f7aee"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I will say that one side effect of the always-on display is that I'm using simpler watch faces. This isn't all down to my mild obsession with the California dial, either. With the display always on, I don't necessarily want other people checking out my complications without my permission. My vintage Rolex doesn’t tell people when my next appointment is and my modern IWC doesn't share my heart rate with passersby. This might not bother some people, but I've been keeping it simple and I don't think it negatively impacted my experience at all. If this <i>really</i> bothers you, there is the option to turn it off too.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8207b832-74e2-4117-a6c7-520b4a011fd1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f1303344-19e1-4cc2-a040-9752292ad5dd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As I've chatted with people about the Series 5 over the last week – some folks who saw the watches in the metal at last week's event and some who didn't – the question of whether this generation of Apple Watch is incremental or revolutionary keeps coming up. I've gone back and forth on this point a few times, but ultimately I think it's much closer to a revolution than it might seem. The display staying on fundamentally changes how you use the watch and it's something you notice constantly. That, to me, is a pretty big deal.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I found myself largely having the same experience I have each September when a new Apple Watch comes out. I'm sucked right back into its world. Jack wrote a few weeks ago about how he's made the Apple Watch a part of his daily life, and I’m awfully tempted to do the same. It's very easy to get used to the instantaneous information pipeline, the easy-wearing nature of the Apple Watch, and all the ways it can bring genuine utility to daily tasks. I'm not sure for how much longer I'll be wearing the Series 5 on a daily basis, but I find that each year it takes me a bit longer to start phasing my mechanical watches back into rotation.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["59f0374c-808e-4f3c-9f19-ea0f73683964"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As someone who has been covering the Apple Watch since the day it was first unveiled, I find myself getting wrapped up in a lot of the more philosophical questions every time a new evolution is released. How does Apple see this device fitting into its broader ecosystem? What does this version telegraph about how Apple sees the Watch growing in the future? What sorts of tough decisions had to be made and how can you see them manifested in the final product? By the end of any review, there’s really on one question that matters: Should I buy this thing? </p>\n\n<p>If you're not yet an Apple Watch user and you're at all curious about the Apple Watch, I do think this is something you should try and need to experience to fully understand. And while it might be tempting to opt for one of the entry level models or even to buy the less expensive Series 3 (which is still sticking around as the base offering), I don't think you're going to get the most out of the Apple Watch or enjoy it most if you go that route. As a device that you wear on your body and touch frequently, the Apple Watch really benefits from materials like steel, titanium, and ceramic. The experience of wearing the titanium Edition versus an aluminum model is night and day.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["34075b84-829e-45ea-9f79-5f143ee60d78"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you already have an Apple Watch, even a Series 4, I still think this is a worthy upgrade. You're not going to get the full Apple Watch experience without that always-on display and the new watch faces. With a product that's changing and growing as quickly as Apple Watch, annual upgrades are just part of the deal if you want to immerse yourself in it. If you're a casual user, your Series 4 is still going to be great, assuming you can keep the FOMO at bay.</p>\n\n<p>For me, it’s pretty simple: This is the Apple Watch I've always wanted. The matte titanium case is the perfect middle ground for me between the sometimes-a-bit-much white ceramic and the highly polished steel, and the always-on display makes it feel more natural and watch-like in daily use. I've said it before and I'll say it again: It's very clear to me that the days when the Apple Watch is nearly indispensable are coming – and probably faster than we think.</p>\n\n<p><i>The Apple Watch Series 5 is</i> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.apple.com/shop/buy-watch/apple-watch/" target=\"_blank\"><i>available for pre-order now</i></a><i>, with delivery beginning this Friday, September 20. Prices start at $399 and the watch you see in this review sells for $849.</i></p>\n\n<p><i>For more, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.apple.com//" target=\"_blank\"><i>visit Apple online</i></a><i>. </i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"428fcfaf-e400-49cc-aa8a-5825b4ab5ab7","container_id":6938,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1568750923998-myu5xsmu1k8-048463e3b5e2a73eefd696d637870f61/3S3A9120.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2019-09-16T16:44:29.645-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T08:53:08.327-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1568750923998-myu5xsmu1k8-048463e3b5e2a73eefd696d637870f61/3S3A9120.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/apple-watch-series-5-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Apple Watch Series 5 Edition In Titanium","tags":[]},{"id":6859,"slug":"the-iwc-pilots-watch-chronograph-spitfire","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph Spitfire","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2019-08-20T11:30:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2019-08-17T11:17:29.987-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:03:23.224-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>The next generation of the Spitfire brings ample style, personality, and charm to IWC's pilot offering. </p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6102056642001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":149858,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's a strange time to be deep into watches. As both auction and street prices for vintage steel watches have climbed precipitously over the past decade, so too has the demand for new steel watches from a handful of specific brands. And, as many of you are all too aware, when I use \"precipitously,\" I am describing a scenario of empty display cases, waitlists, and a secondary market full of flippers willing to help anyone skip the line – so long as you have well over MSRP in your wallet.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["45972283-2fdf-4189-9f9d-c0c43c2d4cdd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Along with this rise in pricing vs access, thanks to the internet we're also in a new age of fast knowledge. It's a time when any Johnnie on the street with an iPhone can rattle off reference numbers that used to be the secret code of those deep in the game. For anyone looking for a stylish steel sport watch, the game has changed and the competition – that is, the fight between those clamoring for certain watches – has grown with both in terms of size and appetite.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So what's a normal guy or gal to do? When I first got into this whole scene, Submariners, both old and new, were available. GMT-Masters were plentiful and not only could steel be found in most display cases, but five large seemed to go a lot further than it does today. Thankfully, for those willing to look outside of the royal offerings, some strong alternatives are available.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Why 'Spitfire'?"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And so this is where we find the handsome IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph Spitfire. Tough but not overstated and certainly toolish but with a vintage flair, the Spitfire collection was recently overhauled and I'd wager that this new chronograph, which is available in steel or bronze, manages to offer IWC's well-established Flieger aesthetic while being distinctive enough to stand apart as an expression of their form that attempts to capture a certain old-world charm. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3a95710c-4693-497b-ae32-1ff865f0784a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Chances are, if you’re thinking about pilot’s watches, you are imagining an IWC. The brand has become somewhat synonymous with the modern format of this classic war-time Flieger aesthetic. From the Big Pilot to the Top Gun and the various generations of their Mark series three-hander, you can have your IWC pilot’s watch in varying degrees of stoicism and case width. The Big Pilot is quite bold, the Top Gun feels somewhat more tactical, so where does that leave the Spitfire line?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Drawing upon IWC's Mark XI, the Spitfire line looks to capture the rugged and capable charm of the watch that the brand created for the RAF starting back in 1948. Shown below, the Mark XI is a steel pilot's design with both tan and white dial elements with an IWC caliber 89 movement surrounded by a soft iron inner case structure to help protect the movement from magnetism. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["74dd07d8-62d6-4eab-aa46-41fad3b2c2ea"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Reportedly in service until 1981, the Mark XI helped to establish IWC's mid-century pilot's design language and, while that aesthetic would evolve, growing progressively more stoic as the brand headed towards more modern classics like the Pilot Chronograph ref. 3717, it’s easy to see the roots of the Mark XI in the execution of this new Spitfire chronograph. And while the basic building blocks of IWC pilot’s watch design offers strong legibility and a certain gauge-like layout, the Spitfire is a bit more relaxed. If the Top Gun pairs well with a flight suit, then the Spitfire really calls for a nicely broken-in leather jacket ... and a motorcycle ... and maybe Bradley Cooper's wrist, too. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["41b3acb1-bee5-4673-9bfb-539d4ac5a7a8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Kidding aside, calling upon the famous World War II plane (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-iwc-silver-spitfire-embarks-on-the-longest-flight/" target=\"_blank\">which you can read more about here thanks to Cole</a>), while some of IWC’s pilot watches can strike me as either a bit too serious or a bit too bold, the Spitfire finds a balance that both nods to the brand's past and nails the vibe of classic aviation. The Supermarine Spitfire is easily one of the most beautiful planes ever designed and it's hard to think of a better tribute for a line of pilot's watches that offers a warmer and more classic appeal than many of their siblings in IWC's line up.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Watch"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f8c1fbc8-b23c-4075-abeb-96901ced9469"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Seen here in reference IW387901 with a steel case and a black dial, the new Spitfire Chronograph is 41mm wide, 15.3mm thick, and 51.5mm lug to lug. Powered by an IWC-made automatic chronograph movement, the Spitfire Chrono has a screw-down crown, a domed and anti-reflective sapphire crystal, 20mm lugs, and water resistance to 6 bar (60m/192ft). This reference comes on an excellent green textile strap, but the design is so versatile that it would likely work on any strap you throw at it. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The sizing in combination with a quality movement from IWC ensures that this great-looking watch is more than just a pretty face, or the sort of watch that looks better in a display case then it does on your wrist. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["c47f5339-242e-46e7-9c76-5ae92af6d983"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The appeal of the Spitfire Chronograph is pretty straightforward, and its presence is thoughtful and suggests that the wearer knows something about watches. It's stylish, casual, detailed, and from the nearly invisible crystal to the fine dial finishing and the snappy action of the chronograph pushers, the whole package feels cohesive and <i>very </i>IWC.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One possibly divisive aspect of this design, and indeed for the whole of the new Spitfire line – which also includes a 39mm three-hander, a 41mm bronze UTC (second time zone), and a special edition of the brand’s Timezoner (more on that in Cole’s write up that I linked to above, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/four-new-pilots-watches-from-iwcs-sihh-2019-line-up/" target=\"_blank\">also here</a>) – is the use of mixed tones for the markings on the dial. While the combination of some white markings and some tan luminous elements on the may seem like nothing more than \"new vintage\" trendiness, the mixed tones are a longstanding element within both IWC’s pilot's watch designs and are an effective call back to the Mark XI and many of its subsequent generations. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["24bf4e85-8582-40de-895e-6327e86d4dfd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While initially I felt I might have preferred to see either a full white or full tan layout, the mix grew on me, and I think it adds a distinctive character to the Spitfire that helps to differentiate it from the rest of the pack, especially now that IWC appears to have (at least for the time being) decided to forgo the use of bright silver dials for the Spitfire family. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1d219d76-fa6b-4e37-a466-1ef9f2310d8f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Lastly, while this model was originally shown at SIHH earlier this year with red \"Spitfire\" text on the dial, the production models will not have this branding. While the absence is certainly not a deal-breaker, I liked the use of red on the dial and definitely miss that dash of color on the production version.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["15479635-40a2-420a-94d2-2bd277fbc11c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Apart from the revamped Spitfire line and the 41mm sizing, the other noteworthy aspect of this new chronograph is the movement, as this is the first time that IWC has fitted a 69000-series movement in a pilot's watch. Surrounded by a soft iron cage to aid in anti-magnetism, the Spitfire Chronograph uses the IWC 69380.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>An evolution of the 69370 that adds a day to the date display, this is a column-wheel chronograph movement that shares some base architecture with the ETA 7750 but is entirely produced in-house, and benefits from IWC’s legendary chronograph know-how. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["33bf7019-a01c-4e9c-aefd-1bf9c8a87717"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7c313dc0-8767-4ab6-b795-7f444a0c23a2","006076b9-6fc7-4c2d-b77f-6e761187e7d4"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Given the iron inner-casing, the Spitfire Chronograph opts for a solid steel case back to cover its automatically wound movement. Ticking at 4Hz and offering a power reserve of 46 hours, the 69380 offers time, day, date, and a 12-hour chronograph with central seconds. The pushers are very direct, and the action is crisp and mechanical, with none of the vagaries or noise one might associate with the 7750. Given the price point and the packaging (I'll restate that the Spitfire Chronograph is 15.3mm including its domed crystal), IWC pushed to offer a great chronograph movement in a wearable and nicely proportioned watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While not entirely without its competition, the value statement is strong, and I think watches like the Spitfire Chronograph demonstrate the level of maturity IWC has been able to reach in their movement development, especially at a general consumer (luxury) price point.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["732ee52c-f0e4-43e4-89e2-a880f4e0d962"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>On wrist the Spitfire Chronograph quickly impresses. The size is excellent and at a personal level, it's simply a much more balanced offering than the ~43mm sizing common to some previous and comparable examples. It's big enough to feel sporty but not large enough to overpower my 7-inch wrist, and the design feels loosely military-inspired, but not in a way that makes me feel like I’m wearing camo pants or dog tags from the mall.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As I've said in previous reviews, style is hard to pin down with watches but I think IWC has created something that feels both stylish and considered but never fussy. The metallic hands add highlights to the dial and legibility is always strong. Also offered on a leather strap (the IW387903), I think this green textile is perfect and, after a day or two, it broke in just a bit and proved quite comfortable. While I would likely switch between a suede-style leather or a NATO (I am a creature of habit), as I mentioned above, this design is so versatile that it's hard to imagine a strap that wouldn't work. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["082aee01-a0b2-4cb2-820a-6eb9b6d945d1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Interestingly, there is no bracelet option, at least for now. While I am generally not a bracelet guy at all, and indeed would wear a watch like this on a strap, I do think that IWC should produce a bracelet for this chronograph (and for all I know they will sometime in the future). As they've offered in the past for other pilot's chronographs, I think a svelte but nicely finished steel multilink bracelet would absolutely suit the watch, and much of the competition for this model offers the steel-on-steel combo. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With a list price of $5,700, this is where things get interesting for the Spitfire Chronograph. Vintage-inspired chronographs come in all shapes, sizes, and prices. Factoring for models in steel that offer competition in size, function, and brand appeal – here is a (non-exhaustive) look at how the Spitfire stacks up against some of the other key players in the space.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["ae2da9fc-3c71-4889-b8a4-c0ffeeaaa52e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>The Omega Speedmaster Professional </strong></p>\n\n<p>The Speedmaster Professional is arguably the go-to option for a steel chronograph with an aviation background, and with good reason. It is the iconic <i>Moonwatch</i>. That said, it's also very common, manually wound, uses a hesalite crystal, and doesn't sport the military-adjacent styling that defines the Spitfire. It's an iconic chronograph from a truly amazing brand, but to my eyes, it’s also somewhat of a boring choice (especially in the standard spec). While this is perhaps the curse of being so good that Omega felt no need to mess with the formula over several decades (or maybe didn't because they didn't want to have to re-certify the watch for manned space flight) the Spitfire just feels, to me, fresher, more interesting, and more fun. </p>\n\n<p><i>$5,250; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.omegawatches.com/watch-omega-speedmaster-moonwatch-professional-chronograph-42-mm-31130423001005/" target=\"_blank\"><i>omegawatches.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["107b8ed0-2022-4890-8c90-11be8eda1822"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>The Bremont Arrow</strong></p>\n\n<p>A recent release from Bremont, the Arrow is part of the brand's new Armed Forces collection that has been designed for use within the various branches of the British military. Measuring 42mm wide with a hardened steel case, the Arrow is a handsome automatic chronograph sporting a monopusher-equipped movement based on the Sellita SW510 MP. It's price is $1,000 less than the Spitfire, and while Bremont is certainly a smaller and lesser-known brand, the Arrow offers strong competition in a well made, sporty, and interesting pilot's chronograph. <br> </p>\n\n<p><i>$4,745; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://us.bremont.com/products/arrow/" target=\"_blank\"><i>bremont.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["8cacd467-7470-4eb0-a850-bd708bd089f2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>The Zenith Pilot Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Flyback</strong></p>\n\n<p>Similar in ethos to the Spitfire, this vintage-inspired chronograph from Zenith is offered in steel, rocks a 5Hz El Primero chronograph movement with a flyback function, and looks really cool. But compared to the strengths of the Spitfire, it’s 43mm wide and considerably more expensive (like the Spitfire it's also available in bronze, too). It’s a great design with a romantic military charm and an impressive movement, but I’d rather wear the Spitfire. In many ways, where the Spitfire swings for mass appeal, this somewhat more quirky Zenith was made with more specific tastes in mind – maybe someone looking for the specific value proposition of a high-frequency, flyback chronograph movement.</p>\n\n<p><i>$7,600; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.zenith-watches.com/en_en/pilot-cronometro-tipo-cp-2-flyback.html/" target=\"_blank\"><i>zenith-watches.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["b0d1bb40-fd1f-452a-ab33-91a1e76af169"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>The Tag Heuer 'Autavia' Heritage Calibre Heuer 02 </strong></p>\n\n<p>Very similar in price point and also a model that looks back at a vintage design language, the new Autavia is 42mm wide in steel with more water resistance, and a 12-hour bezel offering that the Spitfire cannot match. While certainly distinct from the Spitfire in terms of design, the Autavia's Calibre 02 is also a column wheel-equipped movement that offers a stronger 75-hour power reserve. While the Spitfire wears better on my wrist, I wouldn't at all be surprised if someone was trying to decide between the two. For my money, it's a question of style and the Spitfire is an easy win.</p>\n\n<p><i>$5,300; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.tagheuer.com/en-us/watches/heritage-calibre-heuer-02-automatic-chronograph-42-mm-cbe2110-fc8226/" target=\"_blank\"><i>tagheuer.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["2969c20d-b446-47c4-bfae-85058cec7d01"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>The Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43</strong></p>\n\n<p>If you want to talk aviation chronographs, you can’t ignore the Navitimer. A watch worn by astronauts in the years before the Speedmaster was flight-certified, the Navitimer has the heritage and distinctive mid-century design to easily take on the Spitfire. That said, when the price comes into the mix the two fail to stand on the same playing field, with the 43mm B01 offering a lovely format but at a much higher cost. Special points to the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-breitling-navitimer-ref-806-1959-re-edition/" target=\"_blank\">806 1959 Re-Edition</a> (because it’s gorgeous and 41mm) but the hand-wound movement and higher price makes the Spitfire a serious challenger. You do, however, get, with the Navitimer, not only an iconic design but also the excellent in-house B01 automatic chronograph movement, and if that's important to you and you want a slightly bigger, bolder look with an iconic design, you might feel it's worth paying extra for the Navitimer.</p>\n\n<p><i>$8,860; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.breitling.com/us-en/watches/navitimer/b01-chronograph-43/AB0121211B1P1//" target=\"_blank\"><i>breitling.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["60eeb069-93a1-40ff-b9f3-746764a2104f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>The Longines Big Eye Chronograph</strong></p>\n\n<p>Now here is an interesting one. Vintage military styling, 41mm, and a column-wheel chronograph movement for a price point that is roughly $2,500 less than the Spitfire. With a thickness of 14.45 and a lug to lug of 50mm, this lovely Longines (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/longines-avigation-bigeye-value-proposition-hands-on/" target=\"_blank\">which I reviewed here</a>) brings the heat. While I'm not convinced that many will be cross-shopping IWC with Longines, the Big Eye offers incredible value and charm while the Spitfire has a more iconic design, offers a day/date display, a vastly better crystal, and in my hands, feels a better made and better-finished watch (as it should be for the price).</p>\n\n<p><i>$3,250; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.longines.com/watches/heritage-collection/l2-816-4-53-2/" target=\"_blank\"><i>longines.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d2ca00b5-787b-408d-ad02-c8c2f48128be"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So that's the new IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Spitfire – a well-made, and nicely priced steel sport watch that offers strong versatility and a laid-back stylishness that never seems out of place. It's legible, useful, really good on the wrist, and much more interesting than many of the commonplace steel sport watches you and I see all over Instagram and at every meetup. Yes, the classics are always great (and are classics for a reason), but it never hurts to try something new, different, or special. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5aac8a25-7224-4154-962f-7e2ad9d253d7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While I think drilled lugs and a bracelet option would be great additions to an already solid product, with the new Spitfire Chronograph, IWC is showing that you can still get a watch with a lot of personality from a great brand for around $5k – and you can do it without waitlists or resorting to the grey market. </p>\n\n<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.iwc.com/us/en/watch-collections/pilot-watches/iw387901-pilot_s-watch-chronograph-spitfire.html/" target=\"_blank\">For more information visit IWC online.</a> </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>Visit Hodinkee affiliate Crown & Caliber to shop pre-owned <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.crownandcaliber.com/collections/iwc-watches?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=disclosure-box\%22 target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">IWC</a> models</p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"088bd96a-de53-4553-81b4-bf3bbb325d94","container_id":6859,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1566087517025-wz3tu9fh35-f173f4432d258671b6c200a543c5c46c/L1070449-2.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2019-08-17T11:17:30.289-04:00","updated_at":"2019-08-17T20:35:09.427-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1566087517025-wz3tu9fh35-f173f4432d258671b6c200a543c5c46c/L1070449-2.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-iwc-pilots-watch-chronograph-spitfire","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph Spitfire","tags":[]},{"id":6679,"slug":"grand-seiko-sbgk005-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Grand Seiko SBGK005","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2019-06-25T11:59:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2019-06-21T12:03:46.735-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:03:24.171-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>A quirky watch that oozes both style and substance.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6102056643001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":214057,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's easy in my line of work to get jaded. I spend all day, every day, looking at watches, trying to find the most interesting and compelling examples to share with all of you right here. It's a great gig, don't get me wrong, but it can lead to a bit of fatigue. Differentiating one perfectly round yellow gold dress watch from the next can start to seem futile, and there are only so many 40mm to 42mm black-dialed, ceramic-bezeled chronographs that one guy can handle. So, as you can probably imagine, when I see something that stands out, that looks genuinely <i>new</i>, I get very, very excited.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["c6a6e2f7-464d-4c60-85fc-eb96add90ddf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>On a spec sheet, the Grand Seiko SBGK005 might not sound revolutionary, but in the metal and on the wrist it offers up something special that I struggle to compare directly to anything I've seen or worn before. The watch is a hand-wound dress watch at its core, but the unusual case design, brilliant dial, and attention to detail throughout all push it into a category all its own. After seeing it a few times since <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/grand-seiko-elegance-collection-slim-hand-wound-limited-editions-introducing/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">its release in February</a>, I knew I had to spend some quality time with the SBGK005 to see what it's really about and if it could stand up to my favorable first impressions.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"interscroller"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"'Elegance' And The Grammar Of Design"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["be13a1ad-2b5c-4a49-be7e-61349a494625"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Before getting into the SBGK005 itself, I think it's important to situate it in the context of both Grand Seiko's current, diverse portfolio of watches and the history of design at Seiko and Grand Seiko more generally. These will give you a sense of how this watch came to be, the hole that Grand Seiko is seeking to fill with its introduction, and why the design speaks to me so clearly.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["58c7d938-e068-4359-88b9-618ff4d598d6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The SBGK005 is one of four new pieces introduced as the so-called \"Slim Hand-Wound\" additions to the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection. Alongside the stainless steel model you see here we also have a trio of gold models – one in yellow gold with a white dial, one in rose gold with a black <i>maki-e</i> lacquer dial, and one in rose gold with a red <i>maki-e </i>lacquer dial. The Elegance collection, while not something you hear collectors talk about by name too much (if ever) houses a lot of popular models, including the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.grand-seiko.com/us-en/collections/sbgw231g/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">SBGW231</a>, the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.grand-seiko.com/us-en/collections/sbgm221g/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">SBGM221</a>, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/grand-seiko-20th-anniversary-spring-drive-introducing/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">the latest crop of Spring Drive pieces</a>. What joins them all is that the watches are fundamentally dressy in nature, non-chronographs, and mounted on crocodile leather straps. To my eye, it's hard to draw much in the way of specific conclusions from these watches being housed in this collection, except for the fact that Grand Seiko wants you to know that they're, well, elegant, and can be worn with a suit-and-tie if you so choose.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>More importantly though, when placed next to its Elegance Collection siblings, this watch really screams \"Grammar of Design\" to me. In case you're not already familiar, the Grammar of Design is a theory of watch design created by Taro Tanaka in the late 1950s and early 1960s. Tanaka is sometimes compared to Gérald Genta, though I personally have never really liked the parallel. Genta was a revolutionary, sure, and he's arguably done more to shape the modern Swiss watch market than any other single designer, but what Tanaka did was create a whole new approach to watch design that had national identity at its core. Part of the Grammar of Design is that it's Japanese and in opposition to mid-century Swiss watchmaking. Tanaka wasn't just creating something to shape Seiko's best-sellers, but also a framework for understanding Japanese watchmaking as a unique discipline as a whole.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["63f93ed4-f215-4cd9-9751-78f5943b918e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Tanaka did have a hand in designing the so-called \"Grand Seiko First,\" but it's later models such as the 57GS, the 44GS, and the 62GS that exemplify the Grammar of Design approach. A full run-down of the Grammar of Design is a story for another time, but the key principles include keeping a watch case's geometry clean so that surfaces can be mirror polished and separated by clearly defined boundaries, making sure that hands and other elements are crisp and legible, and forgetting those boring round shapes in favor of slightly more compelling profiles. This is an oversimplification, but it will do the trick for now.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's against the backdrop of this theory and Tanaka's older masterpieces that the SBGK005 comes into its own. You start to notice the way the new case shape harkens back to this mid-century period of design and how it stands out a bit next to the other Elegance Collection watches. It has a strong point of view and it asks its wearer to think a bit harder about why they're strapping this watch on instead of something more basic. It's a watch that absolutely couldn't come out of the Vallée de Joux and makes perfect sense coming from Grand Seiko. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The SBGK005"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["24867d9b-f048-4293-ac7f-593f3dfbe3bc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With all of the above in mind, let's dig into the watch itself. When I first saw the SBGK005, I wasn't quite sure what I was looking at. It took a bit for everything to sink in. That patience was rewarded, though. The SBGK005 is a watch that opens up in time, giving you new little details to enjoy as you spend more time with it – I'm a huge fan of watches like this, by the way. As a customer, do you really want to feel like you've used up those little \"surprise and delight\" moments by the time you get the watch home? Yeah, me neither.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Case"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["efe7ff1d-1fd6-4dac-b047-3d8785248828"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is where the Grammar of Design principles I mentioned above are most noticeable. On a spec sheet the stainless steel case comes in at 39mm across and 11.6mm thick, with a round opening for the dial. But when you get the watch in your hands, calling it \"round\" seems like a disservice. The way that the short lugs seamlessly flow out from the bottoms of the dial and curve down to meet the wrist gives the watch more of a tonneau feel to it – but the lugs themselves are still eye-catching and serve as a counter-point to the sort of bulbous shape of the mid-case, elongating the whole package. The contractions and tension in the case design are why it is so successful and enjoyable to look at.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["17a5e24e-ac04-4078-8d51-1de6696d4891"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cf766479-e938-46a1-a409-52570b9fa2dd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Most of the case is mirror polished, with only the central facet of the midcase brushed to help give definition to what lies above and below. Every piece of metal is highly reflective and smooth, with transitions between components delineated either by razor sharp edges (for instance, where the bezel meets the case) or radiused curves (in the case of the lug shape) so that polishing can be maintained, with the reflections accurately underscoring the changing geometry. This makes the watch nearly impossible to photograph properly, but it looks damn good in person.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The dial is one of the real stars with the SBGK005. It's a deep blue color with a textured pattern that Grand Seiko calls a \"Mt. Iwate\" pattern after the large volcano that sits near the company's Morioka watchmaking facility. I'd describe it as a combination of a rough grain treatment and a sunburst finish – but most importantly I'd describe it as awesome. This is what initially caught my eye about this watch and it didn't get any less enjoyable to stare at during my week wearing the piece day-in and day-out. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d90a8cb8-f90d-4460-aa08-ca8fa03b24cb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ae625342-4e00-49c1-8b6d-a3208ce8032c","c122ef1d-f2c9-4eb7-ad5a-c858cc979053"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In terms of dial layout, we've got applied markers at the hours, a printed minute track set inside those markers, a running seconds register at nine o'clock (with a printed scale), a power reserve indicator at three o'clock, and a combination applied/printed logo at 12 o'clock. The central hour and minute hands are brushed on top and diamond-cut and polished at the edges, while the smaller hands for the seconds and power reserve are black polished. The asymmetry is pleasing and I'm very, <i>very</i> glad that Grand Seiko kept this thing date and numeral free. Without any numbers and dial openings, you're free to enjoy the finishes and precision orientation of the watch overall.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5b3c434d-44c4-4e3d-a0dc-5777d2fdc529"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of the most striking things about this watch is the way that the dial seems to almost explode from the center of the case. It's so large compared to the overall size of the watch, with the slim reflective bezel providing just enough of a frame to set it off. This gives the watch the appearance of being much larger than 39mm, since you get so much high-impact dial in a relatively compact package.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3133a2c8-ed13-453f-9d18-6ca7cc94b62f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Powering the SBGK005 is the caliber 9S63, which is, of course, an in-house Seiko movement (which is true of all Seiko watches, in case you didn't know). The 9S63 is an evolution of an existing caliber, the 9S64, just with the small seconds and power reserve indicators added for this new dial layout. You still get 72 hours of power reserve and the movement is regulated to +5/-3 seconds, which Grand Seiko helpfully says will yield about +10/-1 seconds per day in normal use. The finishing is classic Grand Seiko, with wide stripes on the plates and bridges, deeply blued screws, and a really nice countersink on the mainspring barrel. You can see all of this at work through the sapphire case. Now, about that caseback ...</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["bf260cb5-c587-4732-839a-98893fefec1f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Here's where we get to my single biggest complaint about the SBGK005: the lion logo on the sapphire caseback. I understand that this historic logo is important to Grand Seiko, but display backs with logos printed on them feel like the ultimate compromise to me. If the logo is important, go with a solid caseback and make the watch a purist's dream; if the logo isn't critical, leave the crystal plain and let customers revel in an unobstructed view of the movement. A sapphire back that doesn't provide a clear view of the (in this case very nicely finished) movement underneath doesn't satisfy either camp. It's not a deal-breaker for me here, but it is something you'll want to make peace with if you're going to truly enjoy this watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Strap"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["dfe2f0ad-fd10-4981-bd3d-528cb2f5c4e8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now, the only other thing I didn't love about this watch when I first picked it up was the strap. While this watch is pitched as a slim, elegant dress watch, I think it can be so much more than that. Yes, it would perform admirably as a complement to a sharp suit, but I think it looks every bit as good with a t-shirt and jeans. To make the watch more versatile, I swapped the glossy blue crocodile strap out for one in slate grey nubuck (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/sedona-strap-in-slate-grey/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">this one</a>, if you're interested). To be clear, there wasn't anything wrong with the blue crocodile strap, I just wanted to dress the watch down a bit. Personally, I think something like a muted suede or nubuck strap is the perfect counterpoint to a watch that's all about sharpness and precision.</p>\n<p>The folding buckle is one of the nicer (read: less obtrusive) examples I've seen lately, but I'm still a standard tangle buckle guy through and through. I have small wrists and that extra bit of metal underneath the strap never quite sits right on me. The actually buckle part of this one is beautiful though, with an old-school Grand Seiko engraving that gives it a lot of personality.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["47e43ce1-9670-49db-a566-ef536d8e0b11"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With the SBGK005 equipped with a lower key strap, I set out to wear it every day for a week (alright, in this case I enjoyed it a few days longer than that, which should tell you where this is going). As I mentioned earlier, this is a watch that benefits from some quality time, but that doesn't mean that it has a \"break-in\" period or anything like that. From the moment I first put it on, I enjoyed it. With that blue dial sparkling back at me, it was tough to argue. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As I spent time with it though, I got to know its finer points. For one, the case is one of the more comfortable to wear that I've tried on in quite a while. The way that the sides taper toward the caseback and then the curvature of the short lugs combine to make the watch wear low to the wrist. The result is something that wears slimmer than its 11.8mm dimension would indicate and it feels much more like a 37mm or 38mm watch than something that comes in at 39mm. Conversely, the dial makes the watch look bigger on the wrist than that 39mm measurement. This contrast between how the watch feels and how it looks is one of the more intriguing things about it. I don't know that I've ever experienced it before to quite this degree.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["08257fad-00e0-4cc3-b6a5-0a44ce336b0e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6b4e25c9-3856-4709-a0ad-d162e1ebd517"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I've worn a handful of Grand Seikos over the years, and like its compatriots, the SBGK005 also delivers big in the little areas. The hands are some of the best that you'll find on any watch on the planet – and I mean at any price point too. Likewise, the way that the sub-dial hands are black polished so that they seem to come in and out of shadow as you turn your wrist is incredible. The hour markers never all look quite the same, as each catches the light a bit differently. The dial is truly top notch across the board – despite the more expensive rose gold models having <i>maki-e</i> lacquer dials, I think this is the best looking dial on any of the four new Slim Elegance models. Ultimately, it's pretty simple: The more I wore the SBGK005, the more I liked it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["acfdbd67-8758-4a87-829c-079a55e097e5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As far as downsides go, they were few and far between with the SBGK005. One that I wasn't expecting was the strange hand arrangements that can result from the layout of the dial. With the seconds and power reserve positioned as they are, you can end up with stunning configurations where everything has space and looks perfect as well as weird aberrations where the hands all seem clumped up and confused. The latter doesn't happen frequently, but there were a few times I looked down and thought to myself \"Wait, what's happening here?\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["91e0aaac-3fed-4b3d-821c-b07682d8d365"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The only other real complaint is one that's common for Grand Seiko watches with highly polished cases like this: They're scratch and dirt magnets. I'm a bit Type A to say the least, and I found myself reaching for a microfiber cloth constantly to tidy things up. Honestly, I don't really mind this though, and the way that Grand Seiko's cases seem to glow is totally worth the tradeoff. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Overall, I'd consider my grand experiment a success. Despite the SBGK005 being positioned as a dress watch of sorts, on the right strap it can be an excellent daily wearer that transforms itself to fit whatever context it's placed in. It's distinctive enough to always warrant a bit of attention, but not so loud as to require you to dress around it. It's great design, pure and simple.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["ff93e1cb-fb26-4bb3-af64-d8dc8359a4d9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Priced at $7,400, the SBGK005 is one of the more expensive watches in the Elegance Collection, as well as one of the pricer non-precious metal watches in Grand Seiko's core range. Personally, I think you're still getting a lot of watch for the money at this price point, especially if your priorities are unique design, an outstanding dial, and a quality in-house movement. The $5,000-10,000 category is a crowded one though, with a ton of watches for potential buyers to look at. Here, I rounded up a few pieces in that price range that I think tick various combinations of the above factors and straddle the line between what I think of as \"dress watches\" and \"everyday watches.\"</p>\n<p>It's also worth noting here that the SBGK005 is a limited edition of 1,500 pieces and it went on sale in March. Last I heard, there are still pieces available, but this isn't a watch that you can just walk into any Grand Seiko retailer and pick up whenever you want.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["94180691-88fa-4147-a25f-03eb370b236d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><u><strong>Omega De Ville Trésor 40mm</strong></u></p>\n<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/omega-de-ville-tresor-40mm-introducing/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">The new Omega De Ville Trésor 40mm</a> is the most direct comparison I was able to find. There is less than a $900 price difference between the two watches, they're only 1mm apart in diameter, and they both feature stainless steel cases, textured blue dials, and excellent in-house movements. Putting these side by side is to do a study in what makes Swiss watchmaking and Japanese watchmaking two distinct approaches to the same art. For a bit less money, the Omega gives you a Master Chronometer certified movement (tightly regulated, anti-magnetic, etc.), but the dial isn't quite as mind-blowing and you have to want a more conservative style overall (not to mention the addition of a date display). You can't really go wrong with either watch here, though I do think the Grand Seiko still offers something that's a bit more interesting and unique overall.</p>\n<p><i>$6,500; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watch-omega-de-ville-tresor-omega-co-axial-master-chronometer-40-mm-43513402103001/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\"><i>omegawatches.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["49a9d7e2-1649-4418-b253-3338302b83ce"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><u><strong>Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date</strong></u></p>\n<p>One of my favorite watches that I've ever had the pleasure of reviewing here on HODINKEE is <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-master-control-date-sector-dial-a-week-on-the-wrist/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">the Master Control Date with sector dial from Jaeger-LeCoultre</a>. It's been a little over two years and I don't like this watch one hair less than I did when we recorded that video and I sadly had to send the watch back home to JLC HQ. At first glance, these two watches might not seem like analogs, though I do think they scratch similar itches. They're well-priced, they feature great movements that are designed and made in-house, and their styling allows them to be both chameleons and peacocks at the same time. Like the Omega above, this Master Control is classic Swiss watchmaking through and through, this time with more than a hint of vintage styling. If you like the idea of the SBGK005 but think it might be a step too adventurous for you, this could be a quality alternative. </p>\n<p><i>$5,850; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/us/en/watches/master/master-control-date/1548530.html/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\"><u><i>jaeger-lecoultre.com</i></u></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["41d50ed5-949a-4cd3-9681-8075b1ff4de4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><u><strong>Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic</strong></u></p>\n<p>All right, I'm cheating big time here. The <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bulgari-octo-finissimo-automatique-review/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic</a> is nearly 75% more expensive than the SBGK005, but hear me out. One of the most appealing things about the SBGK005 is the fact that its case isn't a standard round case. Both of the watches above are just that: normal round watches. The Octo Finissimo plays a similar game to that of the Grand Seiko, putting a round(-ish) dial into a shape that somewhat defies description, result in a watch that feels fresh and familiar at the same time. I also like that while the Grand Seiko is all about that high-shine case, the Octo's case is fully matte titanium; likewise, instead of a glowing blue dial, the Bulgari offers up something more low-key. Maybe I'm crazy, but to me these watches are sort of spiritual kindred – ticking a lot of the same boxes, just in very different ways.</p>\n<p><i>$12,800; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.bulgari.com/en-us/102711.html/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\"><i>bulgari.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Verdict"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9bb57174-13fe-40e8-b60a-293bd1667e72"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>After my week with the Grand Seiko SBGK005, I can safely say this watch falls in the \"it was tough to send it back\" category. My positive first impressions were only confirmed as I spent a little more than a week wearing the watch, with the rich details of the dial only getting more beautiful and the comfort of the case only getting more impressive over time. Grand Seiko takes its own approach to fine watchmaking – one that you won't find replicated by any other watchmaker – and the result is often watches that stand out as much for their restraint and idiosyncrasies as anything else. The SBGK005 is a watch all its own and one that excels in nearly all daily circumstances.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Doing something different for its own sake isn't always the best move. But when you do something different because of well thought out reasons and with a desire to puts smiles on faces, you can get some pretty interesting results. The Grand Seiko SBGK005 is a watch that takes a familiar formula and executes it with a freshness and a unique perspective, that make it an extremely compelling watch that only gets better the more time you give it to convince you.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>For more, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.grand-seiko.com/us-en/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\"><i>visit Grand Seiko online</i></a><i>.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"946c7183-6114-4949-887f-3a65b0ad9c7d","container_id":6679,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1561478669784-sin0sbmilr-b4643c9b3350253f048565d8c9ec2409/291A7987_2880.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2019-06-21T12:03:46.956-04:00","updated_at":"2019-06-25T12:04:36.508-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1561478669784-sin0sbmilr-b4643c9b3350253f048565d8c9ec2409/291A7987_2880.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/grand-seiko-sbgk005-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Grand Seiko SBGK005","tags":[]},{"id":6661,"slug":"citizen-eco-drive-caliber-0100-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Citizen Eco-Drive Caliber 0100, The Most Accurate Watch Ever Made","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2019-06-18T12:37:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2019-06-12T12:53:54.958-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:03:25.144-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>One watch to rule them all.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6102047291001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":184579,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are so many different reasons to wear a watch – especially nowadays, when a watch, functionally, has long since become an accessory rather than a necessity (an early prophet of this era was Andy Warhol, who wore a Cartier Tank which he, famously, never bothered to wind). Whether this means we are living in an era, horologically speaking, of freedom or decadence probably depends on who you ask, and it's a point about which watch enthusiasts love to argue. The arguments tend to boil down to two positions, to wit: \"Why should I care about accuracy? That's for needlessly obsessive, narrow-minded nerds. I have my phone for that,\" and the counterargument, \"Why shouldn't I care about accuracy? An inaccurate watch is for (rich/vain/shallow) idiots, who don't understand what <i>real </i>horology is all about.\"</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>That there are valid aspects to both positions is something you'd probably never guess from the way the arguments usually play out, but in fact, both sides have a point (if you ask me). The watch, perhaps, is no longer the necessity that it was, which means we're all free to wear them for all sorts of reasons that have nothing to do with accuracy – nostalgia, vanity, impressing people, an appreciation for fineness of craft, love of good design (when present) and on and on. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e8e07c32-5d7e-47ad-bc36-0e01a74d2e4f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But I've always thought that watchmakers abandon precision at their peril. Within reason, of course, a watch that obviously takes high precision and legibility as secondary considerations (an <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-master-ultra-thin-squelette-hands-on/" target=\"_blank\">openworked ultra-thin watch</a>, for instance) shouldn't be held too much to account if it's not terribly easy to read, nor if it fails to keep time to chronometer standards. However, on a certain level, paying attention to precision and accuracy are part of the basic social contract, so to speak, between the watch and its owner, and the pursuit of improvements and advantages in precision are still of interest intellectually and emotionally, to some watch enthusiasts. And thereby hangs a tale: the tale of the Citizen Eco-Drive Caliber 0100.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Eco-Drive Caliber 0100 is, as you undoubtedly are aware by now if you've gotten this far, the most accurate and precise watch ever made, by anyone, anywhere, ever. The stated maximum deviation claimed for the watch by Citizen is ±1 second per year, which is close to the best precision ever achieved by high precision pendulum clocks (the gold standard in every respect for mechanical timekeepers) in the mid-to-late 20th century. We're so used to getting time from mobile devices, which are controlled to microsecond precision via time signals originating from atomic clocks, that it's easy to find such performance banal, but to understand why the Caliber 0100 is so impressive, it helps to consider the problem from a more in-depth, historical and technical perspective as well.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"interscroller"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"In Pursuit Of Precision"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The first watches and clocks were hopelessly erratic, often struggling to keep time to within an hour a day, although since their users generally could correct them by checking them against a sundial, this was not considered a fatal problem. The usefulness they offered (in the case of clocks, especially striking clocks) or the amusement they offered (in the case of the first watches, which probably appeared around 1500) were enough to keep the nascent art of mechanical horology alive. The development of the pendulum clock, in the 1650s, showed that more exact timekeeping was indeed possible, but the pendulum is not suitable for a wristwatch (to put it mildly) and so the balance was used as an alternative. However, it was the application of the balance spring to the balance, in the 1670s, that marked the moment when precision timekeeping became a real possibility in portable timekeepers as well.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["74d46753-1297-42e1-b136-a6a3005a37bb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A watch or clock is precise to the extent that its oscillator always vibrates at exactly the same frequency; anything that disturbs the frequency by definition disturbs the precision of a watch as well. In pendulum clocks, greater precision was achieved by mechanical refinements, and by increasingly isolating the clock from outside disturbances. Really high precision pendulum clocks had refinements like quartz or Invar pendulums (materials with little to no change in dimensions when the temperature fluctuates) and extremely sophisticated escapements, and they were also kept in temperature controlled isolated rooms and even underground vaults, away from vibrations and physical shocks. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This was absolutely essential to their accuracy as the these pendulum clocks were also incredibly sensitive to external influences – the most precise could be caused to wander on their rates by the gravitational tidal forces created by the passage of the Moon overhead. This is a theme we'll see again in the Caliber 0100 – as a clock or watch becomes more precise, you find you have to pay attention to effects you can basically ignore in less high-precision instruments. A 10-second a day variation in rate, in a pre-balance spring verge watch accurate to within only twenty minutes a day, can be ignored; in a marine chronometer, it's a recipe for a shipwreck.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["e97cfc3f-2ccd-4eba-beb8-2acd2963d41d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Watchmakers, on the other hand, had to expect that their creations would be exposed to significant temperature changes, and also to changes in position that would adversely affect performance. It was to address these problems that innovations like temperature compensating balances, shock protection systems, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/does-the-tourbillon-have-any-real-benefits-in-a-wristwatch/" target=\"_blank\">the (in)famous tourbillon</a>, and eventually, materials solutions like Nivarox and even silicon balance springs were developed. However, real quantum leaps in precision occurred as a result of fundamental changes in the oscillator itself.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As a general rule, and all other things being equal, an oscillator vibrating at a higher frequency will have greater precision than one vibrating at a slower frequency. A balance can be made to vibrate fairly quickly – much more rapidly than a pendulum (pendulum clocks often oscillate once every second or two although other periods are possible. If you go to the British Museum, you can see one, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_object_details.aspx?objectId=63360&partId=1&images=true\%22 target=\"_blank\">by Tompion, with a 13 foot pendulum</a> and a period of 0.25Hz). The standard for modern mechanical watches is 28,800 vibrations per hour, which can also be expressed in the total number of complete oscillations per second, or Hertz – 28,800 vph is 4Hz. The first really major advance in oscillator technology for watches, and the first decisive step away from the balance and spring, was the Bulova Accutron, which debuted in 1960, and used an electronically driven tuning fork, oscillating at 360Hz. This resulted a significant improvement in accuracy over virtually all mechanical watches of the time, and the Accutron would go unchallenged for nearly another decade – until quartz oscillators arrived on the scene.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Quartz Revolution: The Birth Of Democratic Precision"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Quartz watches take advantage of an interesting property of quartz – it is a so-called piezoelectric material. A piezoelectric material will physically deform when you run a current through it. If you cut a quartz crystal to the right shape and apply an electrical current, it will start vibrating. Most quartz crystals used in watches are cut in the shape of a tuning fork, and their frequency is so high, that unlike the Accutron, whose tuning fork emitted a faint but clearly audible 360Hz hum, that it's impossible to hear. A piezoelectric material also generates a voltage when it alters its shape. This means that if you have a quartz crystal vibrating at, say, 32,768Hz, you just need a circuit that counts the minute increase in voltage associated with each oscillation until they add up to 32,768, and then advance the seconds hand one increment – and you've got a watch. (32,768 is an easy number to work with as it is a simple power of two.)</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["8cb8065a-fbbd-4a37-ad61-c3d0d49615cc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The first quartz wristwatch was the Seiko Astron, which was released on Christmas Day, in 1969. That watch cost about as much as a then-new Toyota Corrolla, and had a gold case, but as with mechanical watches, economies of scale as well as wholesale adoption of the technology across the entire industry, conspired to drive prices dramatically downward. Unlike mechanical watches, however, a low price was with quartz watches, no longer synonymous with lesser performance. Today, most quartz watches are much more alike than different, at least from a basic tech perspective. Virtually all have crystals vibrating at the same frequency: the aforementioned 32,768Hz, or 32.768 kilohertz; this is 8,192 times higher than the frequency of the balance in a standard mechanical watch. The very first watch movment to have a quartz oscillator vibrating at that frequency was the Girard-Perregaux caliber 350, which had an integrated circuit made by Motorola. The era of true, ubiquitous, low-cost high precision had finally arrived. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["7eef2fb3-c2b0-42fa-9dfc-9581b32a5ad3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>However, the pursuit of accuracy and higher precision was to continue, albeit on a smaller scale. One of the major areas of research was, and continues to be, higher-frequency quartz oscillators. Citizen, long before the Caliber 0100, was a major innovator in this respect. In 1975, it released its Crystron Mega-Quartz watch, which had a frequency of 4.1MHz – that's 4.1 <i>million </i>oscillations per second. More precisely, the Mega-Quartz oscillated at 4,194,304Hz, which is 1,048,576 times faster than a 4Hz balance in a mechanical watch – you start to see why quartz had an unbeatable advantage. The Mega-Quartz was not entirely a success – keeping the crystal, cut to what's known as an AT shape (a sort of lozenge) vibrating at such a high frequency was a major drain on the battery, which only lasted six months or so. But in those six months, you got unprecedented precision – the watch was rated to an accuracy of three seconds per year. Compare that to the ±15 seconds per <i>month</i> typical of less precise quartz watches, and you start to see why the Mega-Quartz was a very, very big deal indeed.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["5121e86d-df89-47cb-bd89-5bd22c8e481e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There were other experiments with what aficionados of the genre like to call \"HAQ\" (High Accuracy Quartz) over the years, which included everything from the Omega quartz Marine Chronometer, to the fascinating, surprisingly beautiful, and now largely forgotten Pulsar PSR-10, but for some time, it looked as if real innovation in higher precision quartz watches was, thanks to smartphones, more or less a thing of the past, with no real possible upside for any brand that chose to invest in it. But largely out of the eye of mechanical watch enthusiasts, who understandably preferred to focus on what they considered real watchmaking, major leaps forward continued to be made. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Higher frequency quartz watches have trickled out in increasing numbers in recent years, which include the 262KHz \"Precisionist\" movements from Bulova, and the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/longines-vhp-very-high-precision-quartz-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">Longines VHP watches</a>. Grand Seiko continues to lead the field in high quality quartz movements built as much for longevity as any fine mechanical watch, and with exemplary precision as well. Regarded broadly, accuracy in the best quartz watches in recent years, can be within five to ten seconds maximum annual gain or loss. But with the introduction of the Caliber 0100, a new high bar has been set for precision in a watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Eco-Drive Caliber 0100"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["3cbc8960-2451-4241-958b-31a90391ac09"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While the Eco-Drive Caliber 0100 represents a major achievement, it's also an evolution of existing technologies – it's a watch, but it's also a statement about just how much unexplored potential there is in watchmaking, whether quartz or mechanical. In terms of precision and accuracy, you can of course get atomic clock levels of both out of watches that ping the GPS network of satellites for a time signal, or which receive radio time signals; however, for a real HAQ/high precision timekeeping purist, these are not so much watches as they are receiving and display devices. Much – maybe most – of the interest inherent in the Caliber 0100 is directly related to the fact that it is independent of any external timekeeping device.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>How does it do its one-second-per-year thing? </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's sometimes forgotten that while quartz watches are electronic devices, the quartz crystal itself is actually a mechanical oscillator – driven by current rather than a mainspring, but a mechanical oscillator nonetheless. At the very high frequencies at which quartz crystals operate they are generally significantly more precise than a balance and spring, but their rate stability can still be upset by the factors that affect conventional mechanical watches. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As we said of pendulum clocks, when you go after greater precision, things you could otherwise ignore have to be taken into consideration. Every quartz crystal has a slightly different response to temperature, for instance – not something that matters much in mass produced quartz timepieces, but for a precision instrument, these subtle variations can be of major importance. Tuning fork quartz crystals also do exhibit positional rate variation as well, and physical impacts can temporarily and even permanently change the frequency stability of a quartz oscillator. How well the entire timing package is made can affect stability as well – accumulation of contaminants, either from manufacturing processes or from leakage of gasses into the timing package, can alter the rate of a quartz oscillator, to give just one example.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["1811e60e-0224-46a4-98ed-133e5c2a7813"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Caliber 0100 has a quartz crystal with an AT cut, which is the same cut used for the 1975 Crystron – however, it runs at a much higher frequency, at 8,388,608Hz (about 8.4MHz). As far as I am aware, this is the highest frequency oscillator that anyone has ever used in a quartz watch, and it's 256 times higher than the frequency of a conventional quartz watch. The shape of the crystal produces much smaller amplitude vibrations than a standard tuning fork-shaped quartz crystal, for better resistance to rate disruption due to movement and physical impact (Citizen says that frequency drift due to positional changes is basically zero) and each crystal in each Caliber 0100 is also tested for optimum temperature frequency response, to double the precision generally demanded of a conventional quartz crystal. The movement actually samples the ambient temperature once per minute, and adjusts the frequency of the crystal to compensate for any temperature induced changes. AT cut crystals also have inherently better rate stability across typical environmental temperatures than standard tuning fork cuts. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There's nothing miraculous or profoundly revolutionary about any of this, really; there is, however, a mastery of technical fundamentals combined with a willingness to take the extra pains necessary to wring the very highest precision out of the watch, that is extremely rare in either quartz or mechanical watchmaking. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["de953653-49a0-4d36-becd-6d738f74c227"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What makes all this practical in a wristwatch, is that it's possible to combine different technologies at this point in horological history, in a way that it was not in the past. One of the most critical keys to the technical success of the Caliber 0100 is power management. With a battery life of only six months, the 1975 Crystron was essentially doomed to be nothing more than an interesting, but ultimately commercially marginal, novelty. It was simply too difficult a problem, in the 1970s, to solve the issues created by the basic physics of battery life and power drain from an oscillator running at such high frequencies. Eco-Drive technology, however, plus advances in electronics, including Citizen's ability to prototype and produce low-power-consumption integrated circuits, means that the Caliber 0100 can run its 8.4Mhz crystal basically indefinitely, as long as it's occasionally exposed to light (the power reserve in total darkness is six months). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0fc1cbcd-a751-497b-8b51-150abf29deb5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Caliber 0100 has a number of other technical features which are intended to enhance and underscore the precision of the basic oscillator technology. In some respects, it would have made more sense from a purely practical standpoint to have an LCD display – energy consumption would be lower and there would be fewer moving parts to go out of order. However, for the Caliber 0100, Citizen has opted for a very traditional analog layout, and has gone the extra mile to ensure that in addition to being accurate, the watch behaves in other respects as precisely as the oscillator. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For example, as sure as God made little green apples, if an analog quartz watch has a seconds hand that doesn't hit the seconds marks dead on, you're going to hear about it from disgruntled enthusiasts, but there should be no grousing on that score for anyone who has a Caliber 0100. The gear train for the seconds hand has a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LIGA/" target=\"_blank\">LIGA-fabricated</a> anti-backlash system, to take up play in the gear train and ensure accurate position of the seconds hand; the tip of the seconds hand has been gently radiused, in order to reduce parallax error. There is also a rather nifty anti-shock system; if the watch gets a whack, it's detected by an internal sensor which momentarily freezes the hands in position to prevent them from being displaced on their posts, and which then releases them a thousandth of a second later.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["eb624687-f5bc-43e5-9299-511547014e3a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For all that it represents a new benchmark for precision in watchmaking, actually wearing the Eco-Drive Caliber 0100 is a surprisingly classical experience – as a matter of fact, if it weren't for the imperturbable forward jumps of the seconds hand (which lands with unerring accuracy every time, right on the seconds marks; a joy to behold) you could easily be fooled into thinking that you're wearing a nicer dress watch from the 1950s or early '60s. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["370f3c3f-76ec-432b-9b02-9c21458b7f51"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Eco-Drive Caliber 0100 comes in several variants – two in titanium, and one in white gold; the latter is the one we had in for our test drive. With no date window, three hands, and an ivory dial, it looks simple to the point of simplistic, but it's one of those watches where the longer you have it on, the more you get caught up in the little details. The basic design motif is a crystal, but it's subtly done. The faceted crown, beveled hands, and brushed and polished applied dial markers as well as the unobtrusively executed facets of the case itself, both encourage and reward close scrutiny, with a level of attention to detail and quality of finish that some Swiss brands would do well to look at (for many years, and to this day, it continues to amaze me how perfunctory the treatment of dial furniture and hands can be on sometimes extremely expensive watches; both Rolex and Grand Seiko do very well in this respect as well). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As a kind of visual paean to precision, the Caliber 0100 is pretty much everything you could ask for. Though it has an undeniably luxurious feel, thanks to all the attention to small details, that's not allowed to negate the precision instrument vibe of the watch, which is I think exactly what you want out of this sort of timepiece. There are no distractions – no extraneous decoration, certainly no date window. Though the Caliber 0100 is not a GMT or dual time-zone watch per se, it works very well as a travel watch – the hour hand can be set forwards or backwards in one hour increments, independently of the minute and seconds hands, which means you don't need to disrupt your presumably years-long assessment of its rate stability when you travel – or when changing to and from summer time, in parts of the world that observe daylight savings time.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0eda24d8-49e7-464b-be6c-52442b136d92"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["8e2ffcc3-347a-40a6-af53-4585b32aca72"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This watch, in white gold, reminded me rather surprisingly of a watch which on the face of it couldn't be more different from the Caliber 0100 – the Lange & Söhne Saxonia 37mm, which is a watch <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-lange-saxonia-thin-37mm-the-new-entry-level-lange/" target=\"_blank\">I spent some time with back in 2016</a> but which has stayed with me ever since. There's a very hard to quantify, but very definite, feeling of having something substantial in the hand, and on the wrist, when you handle the Lange. Walt Odets, who wrote so beautifully about <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.timezone.com/2002/09/16/purely-personal-musings-on-a-lange-saxonia//" target=\"_blank\">a Lange Saxonia back in 2002</a>, talked about that watch in terms of density, saying that it felt so substantial that, \"... in five minutes I suddenly felt that there was something shabby about all my other watches ...\" </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I wouldn't necessarily go so far as to say that the Eco-Drive Caliber 0100 in white gold can definitely make a Patek, or Vacheron, or lord knows a Lange & Söhne, feel shabby, but it doesn't feel totally out of the question, either, which is astonishing for a quartz wristwatch (you get the same feeling from a Grand Seiko 9F caliber watch, but not a whole lot else in the world of piezoelectric oscillators). I haven't had a chance to handle this watch in titanium, in either version, and I'm not sure I'd care for the mother of pearl dial version at all (for all that it looks very well done in press pictures) but in white gold, with its handsome, expansive dial, the Caliber 0100 feels like something with far more permanent a presence in this world, than one usually experiences from a quartz watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0f016a39-d421-41f9-9781-8650f2014856"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>We talk a lot in watch enthusiast circles about a lot of vaguely defined, extremely subjective emotions when we try to explain why we love watches in general, or any specific watch in particular – words like \"soul\" get thrown around in a way that would do a Renaissance neoplatonist proud, and of course, the fact that nobody really is quite sure what they or the other person means, gives many opportunities for arguments. However, I'm going to go out on a limb a little. I never felt that the Eco-Drive Caliber 0100 had soul in the sense we usually mean it when we talk about a watch – not in the sort of indefinable fashion that even a new mechanical watch of better quality seems to have it; that feeling of having something both somehow alive and indefinably more than alive that you get from a purely mechanical watch, was absent. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2c18941a-41e4-4744-a672-3da64315d4a9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But it had another kind of presence – if not a soul, then a sentience, an emergent property of the painstaking attention to precision in both performance and execution that Citizen's put into this watch. When you wear the Caliber 0100, it's easy to forget it's there, in the way that one often forgets about more classically designed, thin, dressier-than-not watches, but then you look down, and your eye gets drawn in by those subtle facets and the slight warmth of the dial, and then you notice that seconds hand hitting the seconds hash marks with bullseye accuracy – <i>bam, bam, bam, </i>dead to rights every time; it's like watching a Zen archer put an arrow into a target and then split it with a second one, but sixty times per minute. You feel as if you are watching a daemon of exactness, incarnated in the form of a wristwatch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Obviously when it comes to pure performance, if you're a watch pulling down one second per year maximum deviation in terms of precision, there <i>is </i>no competition. However, to get back a bit on <i>terra firma</i>, there are certainly other options. This is after all, even in titanium and especially in white gold, a pretty pricey piece of kit; the titanium models will run you the not inconsiderable sum of $7,400 and in white gold, a Caliber 0100 will set you back $16,800 – as some of my younger colleagues more schooled than I in modern, colorful informal vernacular would say, that's a hell of a flex for a time-only quartz wristwatch. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The most obvious competition comes from Citizen itself. The company didn't produce the Caliber 0100 out of thin air or without precedent; it's been making its <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-citizen-eco-drive-the-citizen-chronomaster-ab9000-61e/" target=\"_blank\">\"The Citizen\" watches for years</a>, in both Eco-Drive and original battery-powered flavors and they are rated by the company to keep time to ±5 seconds per year, which is most remarkable performance. They are, moreover, relatively affordable compared to the Caliber 0100 – we reviewed one in 2018 that lists for $2,900. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0a1c890c-63e7-44a6-812b-fafb7e0ee224"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Another possibility, if you're interested in high accuracy and high precision, is from Breitling, which uses temperature compensated SuperQuartz movements in all its electronic watches; we looked at the Colt Skyracer in 2017 and then-HODINKEE editor Louis Westphalen found it <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breitling-colt-skyracer/" target=\"_blank\">impressive enough to make it a Value Proposition</a>. At $2,000, it was definitely one of the more attractive values in HAQ quartz but of course, it's both stylistically very different from the Caliber 0100, as well as not competing at the same level in terms of fit and finish, which is reflected in the price (of course you can bang it around like you probably wouldn't want to do with the Citizen).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And then, there's Seiko – Grand Seiko, to be exact. Grand Seiko 9F movements are generally rated to ±10 seconds per year by the company, although in 2018, the company also released a 25th Anniversary Of 9F model which was adjusted to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/grand-seiko-9f-25th-anniversary-limited-editions-introduction/" target=\"_blank\">run to within ±5 seconds per year</a>, which is probably the result of further refining its already existing, meticulous practices for 9F movements – briefly, everything from crystal selection and pre-aging to the use of temperature compensation, as well as a lot of other refinements far beyond what you get with a typical quartz watch. Now, in the inflexible and unforgiving metric of precision, ±10 seconds or even ±5 seconds a year, is not ±1 second a year, and it never will be. Anecdotally, the 9F calibers seem to be capable of significantly bettering the rated movement performance, but that's still not the same as guaranteeing, period, ±1 second a year. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p> However, there is much to be said for, first of all, getting a quartz watch from the company that launched the whole genre in 1969 and you also get the famous Grand Seiko fit and finish. As an overall exercise in the pursuit of excellence on every level, both technically and aesthetically, a 9F-equipped Grand Seiko is certainly the strongest and most relevant competition for the Eco-Drive Caliber 0100. The fundamental difference to me between Grand Seiko and Citizen is that while Grand Seiko has always felt very much an outgrowth of a very characteristically Japanese approach to craft (and it takes the pursuit of precision from a craft angle as well) Citizen has always seemed very much a technical powerhouse, with its bewildering variety of innovations in everything from light-powered watch technology, to sensors used in its Promaster watches, and on and on. Ultimately I think both companies have their own distinct character and choosing between the two is as much a matter of your take on the overall character of the watches. Any single metric – precision or anything else – is part of a whole which in a really great watch, ought to be greater than the sum of its parts.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Conclusion"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["42076b6e-890d-452a-86c6-7f539869bdd5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For some folks, wearing the most precise watch anyone has ever made, ever, anywhere, in the last 500 years of watchmaking, would be an incidental thrill, or worse, completely inconsequential. For others, the idea of paying that much money for a quartz watch – any quartz watch – would be at best risible, and at worst contemptible. But I got such a huge kick out of wearing it as you can scarcely imagine. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I think a lot of how you react to this watch depends on, bluntly put, how much you find the pursuit of precision as an end in itself, genuinely exciting. On a personal note, I first got interested in watches as solutions to certain practical problems in physics; aesthetics were a secondary consideration. That was a long time ago and I like to think I've learned, over the years, for reasons both personal and professional, to look at watches not only from a broader perspective, but also to try to understand each watch I look at and write about on its own terms. The question for me as a watch writer is always more, \"what is this watch trying to be, and how well does it succeed at it?\" than, \"do I like this watch?\" The latter question is the only relevant one to a potential buyer, but as critics and enthusiasts, I think the former makes for a much more interesting conversation.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["28459060-871a-4fdf-9985-dffab1f06144"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is a unique watch in terms of performance. As a watch, however, it's like any other watch; you respond not just to its technical properties, but to how well the whole thing hangs together, and how well the aesthetics express the technical soul (or chilly sentience, as the case may be) of the watch. On these criteria, and in terms of succeeding in being the kind of watch it strives to be, I think Citizen has hit a home run. In white gold, the Citizen Eco-Drive Caliber 0100 feels like nothing else I've ever seen on my wrist. It is as close to perfection as a wristwatch has ever come in terms of accuracy, and at first glance, it seems obvious that it's a watch whose clear and immediate appeal is to real dyed-in-the-wool precision mavens. But so much human effort and ingenuity went into it, and its precision is so much a result of a really artisanal approach, that I think it has much to offer to the open-minded lover of high end mechanical horology as well.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What would it take to beat the Caliber 0100? You can always further refine the pursuit of accuracy from a quartz oscillator – although I struggle to imagine bettering one second a year performance, I suppose it's possible – but I suspect that the next quantum leap forward in precision, in autonomous timekeeping, is going to come from chip-scale atomic clocks. Such devices present the same problems that quartz watches once did – power consumption and size currently keep atomic clocks from becoming atomic watches. If horological history has taught us anything, it's that such problems have a way of yielding to attack, sooner or later; there is no way of knowing whether or not atomic wristwatches – practical ones, that can be produced to some degree at scale – are months, years, or decades away. However, until then, it seems likely that for the foreseeable future, the Caliber 0100 will reign as horology's uncontested king of precision.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>For full specs and pricing on all versions of the Citizen Eco-Drive Caliber 0100, check out </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/citizen-eco-drive-caliber-0100-introducing/" target=\"_blank\"><i>our Introducing post;</i></a><i> and for even more, check it out </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.citizenwatch.com/us/en/product/AQ6010-06A.html/" target=\"_blank\"><i>at Citizenwatch.com.</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"590f907c-4da3-4250-a53a-03e1dd58e648","container_id":6661,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1560352851444-awhymyx804l-cd4618c73d3344a3e5b26fdc757f3941/291A9963_copy.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2019-06-12T12:53:55.163-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T08:53:45.377-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1560352851444-awhymyx804l-cd4618c73d3344a3e5b26fdc757f3941/291A9963_copy.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/citizen-eco-drive-caliber-0100-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Citizen Eco-Drive Caliber 0100, The Most Accurate Watch Ever Made","tags":[]},{"id":6640,"slug":"bulgari-octo-finissimo-chronograph-gmt-automatic-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2019-06-06T11:21:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2019-06-04T14:09:25.549-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:03:25.496-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>A record-setting traveler's chronograph with genuine style.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6102056319001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":69725,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In high-end mechanical watchmaking, few things are truly new or original. It’s a category that plays with nostalgia, after all. The majority of the popular brands we cover on HODINKEE got their start decades if not centuries ago, and many of the product lines from those brands date from the last century. Updates to long-established designs tend to be made incrementally.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So when I encounter a watch like the Octo Finissimo, I sit up and take notice. Sure, Bulgari was founded in 1884, and the Octo range started as part of Bulgari’s erstwhile Gérald Genta line. But there really is nothing that feels quite like a Bulgari Octo Finissimo when you try one on. It’s at once a design object and a highly engineered piece of machinery. And to be honest, I can’t think of a product that has done more to advance Bulgari’s status as a contender in the high-end watch space. The <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bulgari-serpenti-misteriosi-introducing/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Serpenti</a> may be a super cool thing and an icon in its own right in the ladies' watch arena, but when I think of Bulgari watchmaking, it's the Octo Finissimo that comes to mind. I’m willing to bet that's the case for a lot people reading this article too. This record-breaking take on the chunkier Bulgari Octo has the capacity to excite wildly different segments of consumers, from design devotees, to luxury lovers, to the horophiles.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ea4d2680-516e-47f8-9e64-01706f2e9681"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>From 2014 to 2019, a period of time that seems impossibly short as I write this, six main Octo Finissimo variations and movements have come to market, and the total number of references is many times that with case variations, skeletonized versions, and limited editions for various markets factored in. The Octo Finissimo has included ultra-thin manually wound watches and automatics, tourbillons, and minute repeaters. Over the course of this short span of time, which has included six Baselworlds, this collection has broken numerous watchmaking records for thinness, and injected new life into the competition for ultra-thin watches, a category that some view as its own kind of complication. Octo Finissimo is currently the most visible line of Bulgari watchmaking, and it's had a remarkable effect on how many view Bulgari as a watchmaker. Today, the Roman brand isn't just a jeweler making some watches. It is in seen as a watchmaker with an unmistakable design language and point of view, a <i>manufacture</i> that can go toe to toe with many of the biggest – and oldest – Swiss watchmakers.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["63d9809d-d439-49af-93d5-2045a2a7c0bf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The latest Bulgari Octo Finissimo combines an automatic chronograph with a GMT mechanism and is, unsurprisingly to those who follow mechanical watchmaking nowadays, the thinnest chronograph ever, at 6.9mm thin. That's right, it's thinner than any chronograph wristwatch to date, and for good measure, automatic winding and a GMT are part of the package. At 3.3mm thin, the Bulgari cal. BVL 318 that powers the latest Octo Finissimo isn't just uncommonly thin, it's thin enough to have broken a record that stood for 32 years. Even in an era when there are plenty of companies making thin mechanical watches, ultra-thin chronographs just aren't something you’re going to see every day. That's because they're exceedingly difficult to make.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"interscroller"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Octo Finissimo Milestones"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Ref. 102138, Cal. BVL 268 "},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["b26c6fbc-d65a-49e0-b602-8f4497828d23"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Coming out with the first wave of the Octo Finissimos in 2014 (along with a simpler, manual-wind time-only model), the Ref. 102138 was, at the time of its release, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-bvlgari-octo-finissimo-tourbillon-the-thinnest-tourbillon-ever-created/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">the thinnest tourbillon in the world.</a> In an effort to make the movement as thin as possible, Bulgari eliminated the escapement's regulator assembly and allowed for timing adjustments to be made directly on the balance wheel. The hand-wound BVL 268 movement came in at 1.95mm thick, and the fully cased watch came in at 5mm thick. The record it set went uncontested until this year by Bulgari itself.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Ref. 102559, Cal. BVL 362"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["f1c02052-c22f-44a0-a1c4-a4d268311435"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater was introduced <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-bvlgari-octo-finissimo-minute-repeater-the-worlds-thinnest-in-current-production/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">in 2016 in a titanium case,</a> and later <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/octo-finissimo-minute-repeater-carbon/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">reprised in 2018 in CPT carbon</a>. In both instances, this watch has an overall thickness of 6.85mm. Likewise, the movement inside both is the 3.12mm-thick BVL 362, the thinnest minute repeater movement being produced anywhere today, and indeed, this movement may be the thinnest minute repeater to have ever been produced, though there is the ref. 4261, made by Vacheron Constantin in the 1940s, which reportedly used a minute repeater movement measuring 3.10mm thick. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Ref. 102713, Cal. BVL 138"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["ac815e59-7193-461c-b8bd-a3b3cf7dbc30"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Released in 2017, this version of the Octo Finissimo became the thinnest automatic movement in production at 2.23mm (as seen in <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bulgari-octo-finissimo-automatique-review/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">A Week On The Wrist)</a>. The watch features central indications for the hours and minutes, and an off-center indication for the seconds. The Octo Finissimo Automatic also debuted the thin and supple Octo Finissimo bracelet (though it also came sans bracelet), a fan favorite that was quickly added to subsequent pieces in the collection. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic Ref. 102937, Cal. BVL 288"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["b0259d8b-c7fe-4daa-bdfb-7f51f37accaa"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Last year, Bulgari presented the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bulgari-octo-finissimo-tourbillon-automatic-introducing/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic</a>. This watch broke three world records at its introduction: for thinnest automatic watch, thinnest automatic tourbillon (the record for which had stood since 1986, when <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-fine-madness-audemars-piguet-and-the-ultra-thin-automatic-tourbillon-caliber-2870-aka-the-thinnest/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">set by Audemars Piguet</a>) and thinnest tourbillon whether automatic or manual-wind. What was most remarkable about this triple record breaker was that it was no mere prototype, but indeed a production tourbillon with a 1.95mm automatic movement and 3.95mm case meant to be owned and worn. It also debuted a peripheral winding system that would go on to be seen in this year’s Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic, the watch we are talking about today.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Breaking A 32-Year-Old Record"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The previous record holder for the thinnest mechanical chronograph movement was held by the movement maker Frederic Piguet. In 1987, F. Piguet came out with the Caliber 1180, an 11.5 ligne manually wound flyback chronograph that measured 3.95mm thick. An automatic version of this movement, the 1185, added 1.55mm to the thickness, for a total of 5.50mm, in exchange for the convenience of automatic winding. Bulgari therefore takes the record from both the 1180 and the 1185 (the latter is the better known version of the Piguet movement) and one that has come to be known as perhaps the finest ultra-thin automatic chronograph movement of the last century.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["a1dc0825-e48d-47d5-993e-b5294321f29f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The automatic 1185 movement has had an illustrious career powering a number of chronographs from some of the most important watchmakers in the world. Among these, of course, was Blancpain – a company tied to F. Piguet through joint ownership since 1982; F. Piguet was formally absorbed into Blancpain in 2010. The movement saw life in some of the last century's most popular sports watches. Audemars Piguet employed a version of the cal. 1185, rechristening it the cal. 2385 and placing it in the Royal Oak Chronograph ref. 25860, the first Royal Oak Chronograph. Vacheron Constantin added a big date mechanism and renamed it the VC Caliber 1137. And Breguet based its Cal. 576 on the F. Piguet 1185, using it in its Marine Chronograph sports watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["aae14d98-5430-4633-a772-f84b522b410c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["6151a459-50d1-4ddb-ac94-4bbeab50258c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There is a lot to get excited about with this watch, but I think that most of the sheer \"wow factor\" comes from the record-breaking movement inside. So let's start with the BVL 318.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c1a1230c-3a2f-4f5e-8b78-36bc3f522c36"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There has been a veritable arms race in the ultra thin watch category in the last decade involving brands as diverse as Piaget, Breguet, Audemars Piguet, and Jaeger-LeCoultre, and more. But over the last five years or so, Bulgari – a company still regarded by some as a jeweler that dabbles in watches – has risen to the forefront of the ultra-thin category, breaking five major watchmaking records for thinness to date. I think by now, most of the readers of this site understand Bulgari's proper place as a watchmaker and the quite impressive Daniel Roth and Gérald Genta lineage that got them there. The heir of that legacy is Bulgari's highly specialized movement manufacture in Le Sentier, Switzerland, where some of the most interesting work surrounding complications is happening not just in the Vallée de Joux, but in all of Switzerland.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3227c0ef-9b31-4ec8-b1bb-2c502cdd6f9f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With the BVL 318, Bulgari has made an in-house ultra-thin chronograph, and it might be its single most significant achievement in watchmaking to date. Ultra-thin chronograph movements are notoriously difficult to make. They comprise more parts than time-only calibers, and those parts need room to move and interact with each other as the chronograph is started, stopped, and reset. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As I mentioned earlier, the BVL 318 is a record-breaking 3.3mm thin, overtaking the records set 32 years ago by the hand-wound F. Piguet 1180, as well as the automatic, better known and more widely used, F. Piguet 1185. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c07d8c21-ed96-419a-af89-4a8fa9079ce5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The BVL 318, a column wheel chronograph with a lateral clutch, has a relatively traditional chronograph movement architecture, with considerations taken to ensure maximum thinness (the F. Piguet/Blancpain 1180/1185 is by contrast, a vertical clutch design). In the photograph above, you can see the column wheel in the lower left position, and the lateral clutch, which engages the chronograph, is visible in the lower right position, just above the balance bridge (a close up shot of this clutch can be seen below). All in, the BVL 318 is on the wide side for a wristwatch movement: 37.2mm, the result of a design in which as many components as possible have been fit onto a flat plane. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c379293b-6f78-42d1-8e6d-1e5ed6a39c49"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A version of the peripheral winding system first seen in the BVL 288 from last year helps keep the BVL 318 nice and thin, but it does account for part of the movement's large diameter. A full ring, the rotor is made on one side of platinum and on the other of aluminum, the former being much heavier than the latter, ensuring optimal winding without exposing a large, empty space as some peripheral winding mechanisms do. Bulgari makes virtually every component of this movement, with the exception of the rubies, the barrel, and the balance spring.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With the BVL 318’s automatic winding taken into consideration, the movement’s power reserve of 55 hours seems perfectly ample. It’s worth noting that this respectable reserve is achieved while maintaining a standard 28,800 vph frequency. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Case"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4ceb8ddb-1b90-495d-be17-4fcbf1cf4a03"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of the things you're likely to notice first upon seeing the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic in the metal is its size. At 42mm across, this is not a small watch. And I think the fact that the bracelet tapers away from a flush fit with the case only serves to drive this home. And since the Octo Finissimo case has something between a square and cushion shape, it is going to wear a bit larger than the stated 42mm. (I once spent an afternoon trying to quantify how non-round watches wear in real life<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/squaring-the-circle/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">, if you're interested.</a>)</p>\n<p>The Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic is in fact the largest case diameter seen so far for an Octo Finissimo, and it seems that this was necessitated by the 37.2mm diameter BVL 318 inside. I’m struck by the architectural quality of the Octo Finissimo; this is a case whose tiers and levels give these watches a visual depth that far exceeds what the plain numbers on a spec sheet would have you think. This is one of the best balanced, lightest feeling watches that I have had the opportunity to test drive in some time. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f2532436-1115-466f-96d0-ab5363005e18"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>You don’t get to wear a watch like the Octo Finissimo without drawing the attention of lots of friends and colleagues, especially if you work at HODINKEE. I can't remember the last time so many people stopped me to take a close look at my wrist and try on a watch. And while the case worked perfectly for me on my seven-inch wrist, a few others found that the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic’s 42mm case hung over the edges of their smaller wrists. People who like the Octo Finissimo look but have smaller wrists may want to consider one of the line's previous, 40mm models.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For the moment, the case of this watch, and for that matter its bracelet, is available only in sandblasted titanium, a material that has become kind of a go-to for Bulgari where the Octo Finissimo is concerned. The color is futuristic and and urban, in keeping with the overall design vibe of the Octo Finissimo, but given Bulgari's penchant for iterating with materials, I would be really surprised if we didn't see further versions of this watch cased up in gold or even <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bulgari-octo-finissimo-minute-repeater-carbon-review/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Carbon Thin Ply (CTP).</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["20205989-18d5-4f7e-9ad0-c909ca288bdc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The integration of a pusher for changing the GMT’s local time on the left-hand side of the case is one of the few things that I might have changed about this Octo Finissimo. While using a pusher to set the local time feels like a wonderfully elegant way to make changing the local time accessible and simple, it might have made accidentally changing the time a bit too easy. It's natural to reach for the chronograph start/stop button with your index finger, holding the case in position with your thumb. Without meaning to, you might advance the local time in this way if you're not careful. I also found that giving the crown a couple of quick twists in the winding position to get the watch started would sometimes pull it out a click, and the hands would start moving with each twist. Early in my Week On The Wrist, I learned to to be careful when handling the crown, and decided that this was, overall, acceptable. The BVL 318 <i>is</i> automatic, after all, and the local time changes without touching the crown, so you shouldn't have to fiddle with it too much. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["de29730a-3400-49b5-8a9b-512ddc81ceee"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The pusher system for the GMT hand is a bit unusual; generally with true GMT watches you can set the local time by pulling out the crown to set the hour hand forwards or backwards in one hour increments. I'm not sure exactly how the GMT mechanism in this watch differs from conventional versions of the complication, used by firms like Rolex and Seiko, but it's possible that the use of a pusher also facilitates keeping the movement as flat as possible. The 24 hour home time hand is in a sub-dial on the same plane as the chronograph registers, which also helps keep things thinner than would be the case if there were a center home time hand.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Bracelet"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["229f75c0-a2ef-4b1a-923a-ae92040f4bb5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Octo Finissimo bracelet is – wow! It's light but feels secure on the wrist. Its finely machined, sandblasted titanium links interact fluidly, adding up to a supple bracelet that clings to the wrist without causing any discomfort despite its width (helped by the noticeable taper from the case to the clasp). Rather than feeling like a large cuff on my wrist – something I had initially feared – this bracelet was just plain comfy, and after a short period of time wearing the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic I completely forgot I was wearing it. I remember having a similar sensation when when wearing the Octo Finissimo Automatic on a bracelet about two years ago. I can't think of a better original bracelet design to come out in the last decade.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["b5ccc26d-c650-4abd-95d9-160102a84e46"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>From the moment I placed it on my wrist to the time I sent it back to Bulgari (with a little tear welling up in my eye) I loved wearing the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic. This is the sportiest of the Octo Finissimos that we have seen so far, and I took real pleasure in wearing and using the chronograph, and playing with the GMT pusher even though I didn't leave the East Coast that particular week. Ever since a certain other Grand Seiko GMT has become my near-daily wearer, I haven't reached for a chronograph often, and I took great pleasure in the ease and the feel of using this new chronograph to time cooking intervals and commutes. A chronograph paired with a useful GMT function might be the ideal watch for me. That was a discovery.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I wore this watch at my desk, on the weekend, while meeting up with friends for dinner, and on one occasion, with a jacket and tie. I found that it worked in all of these scenarios, and for that reason, I think that this could be the daily watch of someone who has a somewhat avant-garde style sense. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["12ac8f86-c8b3-4b53-a4cc-649b4a4f5078"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While by no means an inexpensive watch, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic is squarely within what I would consider a fair price range for what is on offer. For $17,600, one gets quite a few things. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo has a completely original, record-breaking, in-house chronograph movement. As part of the Octo Finissimo family, this watch is as close to a modern design icon as any luxury watch to come out in the last decade, or maybe even longer. And of course, it's an easy-to-use travel watch that pairs what I consider the most convenient and useful complication to own (the GMT) with the most fun to play with (the chronograph). Not bad at all. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While the market for ultra-thin watchmaking has indeed been cluttered of late, with Bulgari racking up more records than just about any other watchmaker, the selection of ultra-thin chronographs on the market is itself fairly thin. While no chronograph wristwatch made today is going to match the thinness of the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic, here are some other watches to consider.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Piaget Altiplano Chronograph"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["337a0428-4df7-4bc1-9947-31df4fdb4eae"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is the most obvious competition for the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Autmomatic. And indeed, this is the watch that Bulgari overtook to become the current thinnest mechanical chronograph wristwatch on the market. Both feature GMT functions that are displayed in a similar way, with the 24-hour home time/GMT displayed in one of the subdials. But while the Bulgari is automatic, the Piaget is manually wound. And of course, this Piaget design, with its conservative round case and straightforward dial, are the polar opposite of what the Bulgari has to offer visually. At its debut in late 2014, the Altiplano Chronograph held the record for being the thinnest cased up chronograph wristwatch, despite having a movement that was in fact thicker than the one found in the F. Piguet 1180. In gold, this watch will set you back $29,000.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.piaget.com//" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\"><i>$29,000; Piaget</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 41"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["3d806ca4-f185-4979-a7fc-14f0f16f792a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The movement powering this watch is called the Audemars Piguet 2385, but as discussed earlier, it is in fact none other than the F. Piguet/Manufacture Blancpain Caliber 1185. Though this 11mm-thick Royal Oak is about 4mm thicker than the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic, it is still slim by the standard of most mechanical chronograph calibers. Just this year, Audemars Piguet came out with a more compact <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-selfwinding-chronograph-38mm-hands-on/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">38mm version of its Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph,</a> but that watch also uses a modified F. Piguet 1185, and has the same 11mm thickness. In terms of overall size and proportionality, this 41mm version is closer competition to the Octo Finissimo. In steel this watch is currently priced at $24,300.</p>\n<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.audemarspiguet.com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak/26331ST.OO.1220ST.02//" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\"><i>$24,300; Audemars Piguet</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968A"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["696e2b9a-1bde-44b2-bcc8-610173eb4a7d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As a steel sports watch from Patek Philippe, the Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968A, which came out last year at Baselworld, is one of the hardest watches to get one's hands on at the moment. It has a Genta-esque design that taps into a similar vibe as the Octo Finissimo, and with a corner-to-corner width of 42.2mm, it's in a similar ballpark concerning size, though at 11.9mm thick, it's going to wear a good deal thicker than the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic. At $43,770, in steel this costs about 2.5 times as much as the Bulgari.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.patek.com/en/collection/aquanaut/5968A-001/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\"><i>$43,770: Patek Philippe</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Titanium"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["accbff9c-dfa0-4c97-9bf1-ad0c105f8854"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you are coming to this watch primarily for thinness and for the Octo Finissimo look – and I'm sure many customers will be –then you could do far worse than the Octo Finissimo Automatic in titanium. It may lack the chronograph and GMT functions, but it does provide that look and sveltness, and at a lower price, as it should. It's also 40mm as opposed to 42, opening it up to buyers with slightly smaller wrists and those for whom the 42mm square/cushion was far too large. As I mentioned, it does cost less as well. The simple automatic is $13,900 on a bracelet ($12,800 on a strap) as opposed to $17,600 for the chronograph with GMT on a bracelet. To me, this doesn't feel like a huge difference, though, and I think I'd be inclined to save up a bit longer and get the chronograph with GMT.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.bulgari.com/en-us/102713.html/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\"><i>$13,900 on bracelet; Bulgari</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["034588cc-8405-414e-ab4b-ef055e6834a2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>After spending a week with the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic on my wrist, I feel like I really understand what this watch is all about. What is that? I think it's about bleeding edge horology and thinness, sure. It's about design, too. And this is a Bulgari after all, so it's definitely about luxury and all that that entails. But I think some readers out there who have yet to try one of these watches on will find that it's also about comfort and wearability, particularly on models that include this excellent bracelet. I came away from my time with this latest Octo with the unexpected feeling that this record-breaking design object really could be someone's everyday watch, and that continues to surprise me.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.bulgari.com/en-gb/baselworld/" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\"><i>For more information, visit Bulgari.</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"bc6820b0-931f-4f4c-9a92-bbf09d043f0c","container_id":6640,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1559834336687-41q9x2r32r2-c2bb036c46779217bdda5ff945337138/bulgari_hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2019-06-04T14:09:25.757-04:00","updated_at":"2019-06-06T11:19:03.721-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1559834336687-41q9x2r32r2-c2bb036c46779217bdda5ff945337138/bulgari_hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bulgari-octo-finissimo-chronograph-gmt-automatic-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic","tags":[]},{"id":6519,"slug":"rolex-explorer-214270-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Rolex Explorer Reference 214270","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2019-04-24T11:30:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2019-04-22T12:09:28.706-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:03:26.417-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>Taking a closer look at one of the most iconic and influential sport watches of all time.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106661961001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":470613,"public_token":"8ae301cbb21483a107128b383b090273","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Be it in the greater world of watches or just within the context of Rolex, the Explorer is a known quantity. It's long-standing, straightforward, and, even among its much-loved siblings, it is iconic. The Explorer is one pure unit of Rolex sport watch. The Explorer's timeline establishes it as a category-defining model, and while the Explorer has evolved over the past half-century, the core formula is one of everyday versatility, thoughtful simplicity, and steadfast reliability. This remains true from its mountain-top roots to several fun and collectible references that emerged over the decades. Today's Rolex Explorer is officially known as the M214270-0003, but from remote Himalayan peaks to a Midtown boardroom or a weekend in the backyard, we all know it just as <i>the </i>Explorer. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["09a72ff9-597a-4d35-93c3-3fbaf0f8d426"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So, the watch in question is from 2016, so why dig in now? The steel Rolex market has never been hotter and I thought it might be interesting to look at a watch that is both actively at the creamy center of the Rolex design language and also one of the least expensive new Rolex sports models on the market. My daily watch is a last-generation Explorer II 16570, and with that perspective I wanted to see where it all began and where we find the Explorer today, in a world crazy for steel Rolex. </p>\n\n<p>To understand the modern 214270 Explorer, we need to look to the past, to see where it came from. In this case, they don't call it the Explorer for nothing and the model can trace its roots back to the earliest days of post-war adventure and the birth of the modern sport watch. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Making History"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["afc2d620-c6aa-4c7a-a847-9fbf1b0f1d8a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Born of a time where a watch needed little more than three hands, today's Explorer can trace its roots back to 1953 with a ground-breaking expedition to the world's highest peak. These earliest Explorer models were provided by Rolex for testing on the expedition that saw Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay conquer Mt. Everest on May 29, 1953. The \"Explorer\" branding was registered in Geneva earlier that same year and the watches were prototyped specifically for this Summit bid.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The specific and special watch in question was an early 50's reference 6098. Worn by Norgay, as Hillary was famously said to have worn a Smith's watch to the summit (both Rolex and Smiths were sponsors of the climb), this insanely important watch can be seen today at the Beyer Museum in Zurich, Switzerland <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tallking-watches-rene-beyer/" target=\"_blank\">(and in our Talking Watches with Mr. Réne Beyer himself)</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a1dc8175-01a0-49e4-b603-97db52fd7218"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With a banner role in one of the most notable post-war exploration achievements, Rolex had the positioning they needed to establish their dressy but tough-as-nails Explorer as the quintessential sport watch of its era. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While the Explorer has been in production since 1953, it took a few years for Rolex to land on the core design that we know today. The earliest models were based on Rolex Bubblebacks and there were several early Oyster models that said \"Explorer\" on the dial (though, you'll notice, the 6098 taken to the peak of Everest did not). While the genesis of the model is undoubtedly that original 6098, it would be a few more years and a few more references (including the 6150, the 6350, and a few oddballs like the Air-King Explorer 5500) before Rolex released the 6610 and established the format of the Explorer that we recognize today. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Let's look at a simplified timeline: </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>1952/53 – Reference 6150</strong></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["aedb56c6-96cf-40ec-863d-2e9ce8dd29eb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In what started as a real-world prototype of the eventual Explorer, the 36mm 6150 barely pre-dates the 6350 (both use the same A296 movement, which was also in Norgay's 6098 on Everest) and would later replace it entirely as the Explorer matured towards the 6610. Produced until 1959, the 6150 originally said \"Precision\" on the dial and not \"Explorer.\" Being an early steel Rolex sport watch, and one of the references at the onset of the Explorer's lineage, these are exceedingly collectible. In the world of watches as tools for modern adventure, the 6150 is entirely OG. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>1953 – Reference 6350</strong></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["ef5e0048-e6ea-49e0-8735-e9fb4ff1d694"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This was the first reference to have \"Explorer\" on the dial and it was made specifically for adventurous applications (like Himalayan mountain climbing) following Hillary and Norgay's success on Everest. Indeed, the 6350 could be ordered with special oil to keep the movement running in a wide temperature range of -20C to 40C (-4f to 104f). All 6350's are very collectible, but the so-called 6350 \"Honeycomb\" has a <i>guilloché</i> dial (similar to those found on early Milgauss models) that really sets it apart from other examples and makes it a highly desirable model from the early days of the Explorer. The 6350 was not produced for long, with some estimates putting it out of production by 1954 as Rolex moved forward with the concurrently-produced reference 6150 as the future of the Explorer. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>1955 – Reference 6610</strong></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["2df6672c-e24c-4c7b-b098-b95b2bc31096"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is the reference that would establish the general and enduring aesthetic of the Explorer, with a black dial, gilt markings, a 36mm case, and 50 meters water resistance. Largely similar to the 6150 that it replaced, the 6610 was a bit thinner thanks to the use of a new movement, the Rolex caliber 1030. If you want to see a truly wild 6610, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/found-a-rolex-explorer-i-with-a-white-dial/" target=\"_blank\">take a look at this white dial version we highlighted at auction from Christie's back in 2013.</a> Beyond rare and originally carrying an estimate of $10,000 to $16,000, this white-dial 6610 would later claim an impressive CHF 171,750 at auction. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>1963 – Reference 1016 </strong></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["1ad95c03-36cf-42a7-b2db-fddbe3ded21c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is the quintessential Explorer reference. At 36mm wide in stainless steel with a stretch bracelet and 100m water resistance, the 1016 was launched in 1961 and would remain in production until 1989. In 1975, Rolex updated the 1016 with a solid link bracelet (though not with solid end links) and added hacking via the new caliber 1570 movement (vs. the previous cal 1560). This is where Rolex really hit its stride with the Explorer, and indeed, many of their steel sport watches. </p>\n\n<p>The 1016 also gave us some seriously collectible Explorers, including the exceedingly rare \"Space-Dweller.\" Said to have been created for the Japanese market, little is known about this incredibly rare Explorer variant that quite literally says \"Space-Dweller\" on the dial and may well be one of the rarest Rolex watches ever made. Generally dated to 1965 or 1966, Ben highlighted the Space Dweller in his collecting feature for HODINKEE Magazine, Volume 3, saying, \"This watch is so remarkably simple, but equally special and rare – estimates range from as few as five correct examples to at most 30 – with a small percentage seen publicly. It is the ultimate sleeper, and to me, one of the very coolest Rolex watches ever made.\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["d49ec7d6-e8c6-4185-89e8-d8bf063140a2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Also well-loved in the collector community for the Explorer are white dial or \"Albino\" 1016s. Early pre-Explorers like Norgay's 6098 had white dials, and while it was never something that seemed to be produced in any considerable quantity, there are some white dial examples of the 6610 (see linked example above) and the 1016 on the market. </p>\n\n<p>With such a long production run, there are many collectible 1016 Explorers that have either aged into a special look (such as tropical dial examples) or earlier examples with gilt dials, or rarer stock like those with a gilt dial and a line under the text above six o'clock (aka \"gilt underline\" 1016s).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>1989 – Reference 14270</strong></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["719455f6-5a2f-4029-9d7b-fd6e6e179323"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is the first truly modern reference for the Explorer and, while the format was similar, it was a considerable departure from the case shape and dial execution of the 1016. Holding steady at 36mm but employing a sapphire crystal for the first time, the 14270 also had applied white gold markers with tritium lume (the 1016 used painted markers on a matte dial) and the movement was updated to a then-modern Rolex caliber 3000. </p>\n\n<p>Those looking for a collectible 14270 should be aware of the \"Blackout\" variant. Dubbed as such for its black enamel–filled 3, 6, and 9 markers, the 14270 Blackout dates to the start of the production cycle, with known examples dated to 1990 and 1991. Subtle changes are always the name of the game in Rolex collecting and these dark numeral Explorers are easily the most collectible derivation of the 14270 reference. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>2001 – Reference 114270</strong></p>\n\n<p>Identical to the 14270 save for an update to the Rolex caliber 3130, if you consider that Rolex didn't change the reference when they updated the movement in the 1016, the Explorer basically only had two cut-and-dry versions from 1961 to 2010 – which is wild. Looking into the future, Rolex opted to hang onto the six-digit reference (214270) despite the updates described below. Rolex, you work in mysterious ways. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>2010 – Reference 214270</strong></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["8472e3e1-e345-440c-bc99-eedc61a2c12f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is the first phase of the Explorer as it exists today in the modern Rolex line up. Launched in 2010, the 214270 upped the size from 36mm to 39mm, added solid end links to the Oyster bracelet, and updated the movement to the modern caliber 3132. This reference is easily demarcated from its predecessor thanks to the use of a shorter handset (the minute hand does not make it to the minute track) and metallic, non-luminous markers for 3, 6, and 9. Some like to say the handset was carried over from the 36mm case size and there are definitely those that feel the visually lighter hands were more elegant and a better fit for the semi-dressy Explorer. Either way, with production spanning only five or so years, this is a notable reference and may prove to be collectable some time in the future. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["218b9c49-a380-4f02-91f7-2c48936e4c33"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>2016 – Reference 214270 'MKII'</strong></p>\n\n<p>As reviewed here (please keep reading), the current-spec 214270 was updated at Baselworld in 2016 with a larger and more proportionally appropriate handset and luminous infill for the 3, 6, and 9 markers. This return to lumed markers is the first time since 1989 (when the 1016 was phased out) that the Explorer offered luminous execution for all of its hour markers. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A Modern Explorer"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["e52d7c6e-fd64-40aa-9025-85df461b6d2b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So those are the roots, but what do we get today (and why)? Updated in 2016, the modern 214270 Explorer is 39mm with an Oystersteel case and a black dial, the recognizable 3, 6, 9 markers (now with lume in them) and a refreshed handset that is both longer and a bit thicker. All of the lume is Rolex's proprietary Chromalight and it glows blue when things get dark. The result of these updates make the so-called \"MKII\" 214270 Explorer (dubbed so due to the fact that Rolex updated the reference without changing its number) feel more balanced, a bit sportier, and overall more comfortable in its 39mm sizing. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["275fb43c-8b94-4942-b8a9-ee32e8486650"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Originally upsized to 39mm (from the 36mm 114270) in 2010, I'm a bit mixed on whether or not the Explorer really needed the extra size. On one hand, 39mm is a truly excellent (and still reserved) size for a sport watch. On the other hand, if you've tried on a 36mm Explorer, such as the older 1016 or the more modern 14270, you know just how sweet that size really is. The 36mm feels like wearing an old watch, even if you're picking up a 114270 fresh from the box, that format speaks directly to its lineage and I feel like the impression is good at 39mm, but more powerful at 36mm. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a0355fda-11c3-4a7b-a30f-7b0fe4c94ba4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Even at its somewhat larger (but still not all that large) sizing, the Explorer is arguably Rolex's last classic steel sport watch under 40mm. And despite it being one of the less expensive and certainly one of the most minimal offerings in the brand's portfolio, the Explorer still has 100m water resistance with a Twinlock crown, excellent lume, and a case that looks especially svelte when viewed next to the much more burly cases of the modern Submariner, GMT-Master II, or its direct sibling, the 42mm 216570 Explorer II. </p>\n\n<p>To my eyes, this 39mm Explorer and the current Daytona have the two best cases of any modern Rolex, with neither having been updated to the so-called \"maxi\" case shape common to other Rolex sport watches. Within that opinion, the Explorer's continued use of this thinner lug case helps to speak directly to its \"all killer, no filler\" vibe. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["37bb2839-f179-479d-a037-ee304f5efab3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Regardless of the case size and shape, while the Explorer's dial has evolved, there is still an easy through line from early references like the 6150 to the modern 214270. The deep black dial, the simple and very legible layout, and the recognizable 3, 6, and 9 of the Explorer's dial have persisted for more than 60 years.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While I've used numerous terms like \"simple\" or \"minimal\" in describing the Explorer, don’t for a second think that I mean basic or underdeveloped. Being a quintessential Rolex, while the Explorer may have a comparatively simple time-only movement, it's built to last and to do so without skipping a beat regardless of where you take it. More specifically, the 214270 Explorer uses the brand's caliber 3132, an automatically wound movement that ticks at 4Hz, sports a Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers, and a power reserve of 48 hours. Accuracy is also assured, with the 3132 earning a COSC certificate long before it reaches your wrist. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f6b43b04-7b94-4e1d-b7d0-a00b18a86838"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Being a Rolex Superlative Chronometer, COSC is not enough. Once the caliber 3132 is cased in a final Explorer watch, the entire package must be internally certified to run within -2/+2 seconds per day (much more stringent than standard COSC). Along with the improved accuracy, Rolex Superlative Chronometers carry a five-year warranty and have a 10-year service interval. From a movement standpoint, it's exactly what I'd want in an Explorer. It's strong, tough, entirely fuss-free, easy to service, and not complicated in any way that detracts from the ethos of the watch as it exists as a whole. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["7b4e1040-0fb0-410c-bc97-6688aef3b17c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Bracelet"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3f4b9e56-a853-4c7a-88e5-d977adfda35e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The bracelet is a classic Rolex Oyster. Basically the gold standard for an everyday bracelet, the Oyster bracelet has a three-link design, solid end-links, and a robust fold-over safety clasp with micro adjustment. I don't love most bracelets, but the Oyster suits the Explorer as well as it does any other Rolex. It's well matched in thickness and weight and the fit and finish are both exacting and tool-ish. While a fella such as myself would quickly opt for a simple leather or a NATO, the Oyster is a fan fave for many good reasons. It just works. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["b8b062ab-d941-4bf2-b365-a70e14a2bf01"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In many ways, that is the ethos of the Explorer. It just works. A rotating bezel? Do you need one? Look elsewhere. What about a date? That's a no, bro. How about you get hours, minutes, and seconds, and just be cool about it? The Explorer, regardless of the reference, is a classic thing forged in a time of classic requirements. Furthermore, the 214270 is a modern case study in \"if it ain't broke, don't fix it\" thinking. Yes, the current gen is larger and more lux than than gems like the 1016, but that is the way of all Rolex watches and it's one of the reasons people adore their vintage watches. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When you think about it, if the design didnt have lasting merit, a watch like the Submariner could easily have replaced the Explorer at some point. More so, I think it’s telling that Rolex elected to create an Explorer II instead of bending the Explorer aesthetic to fit the needs of the modern spelunker (in 1971 – though that's a story for another time). Despite its role as something of a generalist among the other classic, purpose-built Rolex sport watches, the Explorer endures. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1ca9db90-934d-4377-9433-9376a7df4959"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>On wrist, it feels like nothing more than you need. While I love the 36mm sizing of the previous generations, the 214270 feels nicely balanced at 39mm. It's not delicate, it feels current and thoughtful, and it is a great size on my 7-inch wrist. On the bracelet it wears a bit heavy (I don't commonly wear any of my watches on a bracelet), but the Oyster is a solid option that doesn't overpower the Explorer on wrist. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The dial is a rich black and the updated handset offers a proportionally appropriate fit for the larger case sizing. Legibility is excellent in any lighting, with plenty of lume on hand thanks to the updated lume-filled numerals (see the included video). The Explorer feels elemental, like the sort of watch you wear after you leave field HQ and venture out to where the map gets iffy. Sure, maybe today some GPS-synchronized system is providing the time along with several other points of data, but the Explorer is the consummate backup on your wrist (it's cool, too). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["af04ec57-8519-4c1a-a2f5-cac16cd3c1d1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For everyday wear (i.e., when not adventuring), the Explorer feels stylish, laid-back, and without the pretense or fuss of a dive watch or a chronograph. In your day-to-day, you don't have to explain an Explorer. There is a confidence in the design, both in its legacy and in its execution, that is a strong amalgam for the entire Rolex philosophy. It's the golden age of Rolex's sport watch design distilled down to the point of being the foundation for so much of what they are known for, both aesthetically and as a brand. The Explorer doesn't pose, presume, or peacock – it's just a great watch. </p>\n\n<p>While I will always want the second time zone offered by my beloved Explorer II, the OG Explorer is a better and much more focused design. If you like the idea of a toolish Rolex but don't want any added complication, this is likely where you're going to land and the 214270 rocks. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The 214270 Explorer carries a list price of $6550 and competition at this price point is pretty fierce. For simplicity, I've opted to only consider time-only watches with automatic movements, in an overall form factor that is subtle but tough (extra points if it can be made dressy). This isn't exhaustive, but rather a highlight of other watches that I think could appeal to the same buyer at a vaguely similar price point, or even a similar type of enthusiast taste (comparable at a philosophical level, if not directly in price and quality). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["f5eec077-8a63-4998-802a-1205cf404f4b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Omega Seamaster Railmaster </strong></p>\n\n<p>While many may call upon the Omega Aqua Terra, the no-date and time only Railmaster (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/omega-seamaster-railmaster-review/" target=\"_blank\">which Stephen reviewed right here</a>) is a more interesting comparison that offers a design that is a better match for the quiet, casual elegance of the Explorer. At 40mm wide and offered on a steel bracelet for $5,000, the Railmaster has a tech-forward co-axial Master Chronometer movement and a similar five-year warranty. While the Railmaster bests the Explorer's price by a good margin, it can't match the legacy of design and heritage offered by the long-standing Rolex. But it does offer an excellent alternative with similar charm. </p>\n\n<p><i>$5,000; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.omegawatches.com/watch-omega-seamaster-railmaster-omega-co-axial-master-chronometer-40-mm-22010402001001/" target=\"_blank\"><i>omegawatches.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["071ea567-742b-467e-9450-79952a3ae673"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Automatic </strong></p>\n\n<p>This is 41mm of gorgeous JLC steel (especially with the blue dial). The <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/us/en/watches/jaeger-lecoultre-plrs/jaeger-lecoultre-plrs-automatic/9008170.html/" target=\"_blank\">Polaris Automatic</a> may not stand as a legacy design totem to the Jaeger brand, but it does hit that difficult blend of sporty and elegant, especially on the bracelet. Coming in a bit over the Explorer at $7,560, the Polaris has a smaller power reserve, but you can see the in-house 898E/1 JLC caliber via an included display case back. It's a different take on a similar formula and done so with a strong design execution from Jaeger-LeCoultre. </p>\n\n<p><i>$7,650; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/us/en/watches/jaeger-lecoultre-plrs/jaeger-lecoultre-plrs-automatic/9008170.html/" target=\"_blank\"><i>jaeger-lecoultre.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["99d8b79c-0b8d-4ca6-b0e0-beb4d10de07f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Tudor Black Bay 36</strong></p>\n\n<p>It's a bit smaller and uses a much less prestigious movement, but the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.tudorwatch.com/watches/black-bay-36/m79500-0007/" target=\"_blank\">Black Bay 36</a> has a charm all its own. Where the Explorer is a cornerstone of Rolex design language rendered with no additional ornamentation, the Black Bay 36 starts as a neo-retro dive watch design and then removes all of the dive bits. Like with the JLC, the blue dial just sings, but in any version the dial and marker proportion is weird and charming and the BB36 wears so well on any wrist. For those lamenting the 39mm case size of this latest Explorer, try on a BB36 and see if you dig the deconstructed Black Bay vibe. </p>\n\n<p><i>$2,900; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.tudorwatch.com/watches/black-bay-36/m79500-0007/" target=\"_blank\"><i>tudorwatch.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["1ae8a370-add7-4237-a085-773cfa69b768"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Grand Seiko SBGR301</strong></p>\n\n<p>No-date and sporty is not a format commonly found from Grand Seiko, but the 42mm SBGR301 is something of an outlier and an interesting foil to the concept of the Explorer. While certainly a bit larger in width, the SBGR301 is a sporty three-hander that carries long-standing design elements from the history of Grand Seiko. The hand shape and the simple but elegant dial layout are matched by 100m water resistance and an excellent in-house Grand Seiko movement with 72 hours of power reserve. Certainly a lovely design and a strong value to the price of the Rolex, with no lume and more polished elements, this $4,300 GS may be a bit too dressy to line up directly with the Explorer. </p>\n\n<p><i>$4,300; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.grand-seiko.com/us-en/collections/sbgr301g/" target=\"_blank\"><i>grandseiko.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["614e0f3d-d8e0-4b06-b17d-b074fa7965cb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>NOMOS Glashütte Club Automatic</strong></p>\n\n<p>While not available with a black dial or a bracelet, the 40mm <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://nomos-glashuette.com/en/club/club-automatic-751/" target=\"_blank\">NOMOS Club Automatic</a> offers a sporty time-only watch with excellent legibility, an in-house movement, and a distinct wrist presence for $2,160, or about a third of what the Rolex costs. While aesthetically very different from the Explorer, the Club is also not an example of NOMOS's core design (for that, consider the Tangente). I really like the Club and the stranger Club Campus, but neither are strong competition against the appeal of the Explorer unless you're looking for a similar ethos with an entirely different take on design. </p>\n\n<p><i>$2,620; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://nomos-glashuette.com/en/club/club-automatic-751/" target=\"_blank\"><i>nomos-glashuette.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["2be096d7-fdb2-492b-9ba5-ddcc03938b1b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical</strong></p>\n\n<p>Bear with me here, as this is less about actual competition and more of a thought exercise. While the sub-$500 <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hamiltonwatch.com/h69429931-khaki-field-mechanical.html/" target=\"_blank\">Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical</a> is really not that comparable to the Explorer (and it breaks my requirement of these watches having automatic movements), I think that if you dig the Explorer for reasons beyond the crown on its dial, you'll probably also dig this charming hand-winder from Hamilton. No, it's not of comparable quality, it doesn't have nearly as high-end of a movement, it's not automatic, and it doesn't offer a bracelet, but it is is a simplified and elemental expression of its base design. It's 38mm wide, in steel, works on any strap, and costs less than $500. For those who aren't ready to spend at the level of the Explorer (or perhaps have their name on a waiting list to get one), this sweet Hammy is a budget alternative with a look that is all its own. </p>\n\n<p><i>$475; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hamiltonwatch.com/h69429931-khaki-field-mechanical.html/" target=\"_blank\"><i>hamiltonwatch.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["9dd48b4f-bca9-4ab4-82a2-9ce2cb839226"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In so many ways the adage \"less is more\" has trouble integrating with our modern lives. In an existence characterized by open access, complicated multirole products, and endless options, we fight to tread water in a sea of functionality that belies actual function (have you ever tried to pick a toothpaste?). And while I don't explicitly wish for \"simpler times,\" I think there is something to be said for products that make an effort toward being really good at one thing regardless of the application. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In a world of multi-tools and app stores, consider the elegance of a well-made pocket knife, a simple wallet, a carabiner, a ball cap, or even a humble pencil. While items like these may not seem especially multi-capable, they forego extra functionality for pure versatility. Their thoughtful designs work anywhere and require no specific explanation. While we praise the Submariner and the GMT-Master for their strong functionality, they are little more than specific functions added to the lovely core established by the Rolex Explorer. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bda0b123-b0ac-4af4-b23b-163dd4ed005c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The current 214270 Explorer is the modern evolution of the purest Rolex design to have ever graced the top of our world. Compared to its fore-bearers, it's bigger, stronger, better made, and more luxurious. While Rolex has steadily worked to improve the Explorer from an empirical standpoint, I think they've made concerted efforts to protect its original appeal and the charm of its bloodline. If you're going to bandy about the term \"iconic\" the Explorer has undoubtedly earned its place on that list and it exemplifies the core of competency, design, and watchmaking that has made Rolex into the brand it is today. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For lives that blur the line between peace and peril, if the goal is a very solid watch with minimal pretense and near endless versatility, the Rolex Explorer remains one of the finest and most straightforward sport watches ever created. </p>\n\n<p><i>To learn more, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rolex.com/watches/explorer/m214270-0003.html/" target=\"_blank\"><i>visit rolex.com</i></a><i>.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>Visit Hodinkee affiliate Crown & Caliber to shop pre-owned <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.crownandcaliber.com/collections/rolex-watches?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=disclosure-box\%22 target=\"_blank\">Rolex</a> models</p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"8e689807-4b17-4eea-8f25-bc6cf15ac1db","container_id":6519,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1555951636647-mdbyvp85ako-054700d977b52648a2a9edd18f14a112/hero-exp-9.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2019-04-22T12:09:29.044-04:00","updated_at":"2019-04-25T07:07:09.099-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1555951636647-mdbyvp85ako-054700d977b52648a2a9edd18f14a112/hero-exp-9.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-explorer-214270-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Rolex Explorer Reference 214270","tags":[]},{"id":5736,"slug":"breitling-navitimer-8-b01-chrongraph-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Breitling Navitimer 8 B01 Chronograph","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2018-09-27T13:34:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2018-07-21T19:12:01.565-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:03:27.211-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>We put an old-school watch in a cutting-edge jet – find out how this mechanical pilot's watch holds up in the cockpit. </p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106667205001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":97275,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Pilot's watches are as popular as they are, not because there are a tremendous number of pilots in the general population, but simply because there are a lot of us in love with the idea of flying. And not flying in the way most of us fly nowadays. I've probably logged more miles in the air than Charles Lindbergh, but it's been a completely passive experience. Air travel today is deliberately engineered either to make you wish you were almost anywhere else (in economy) or to distract you as much as possible (in business class) from the reality of being shot through the air in an aluminum tube, miles above the Earth, with several hundred strangers who are hoping as hard as you are that the crew up front knows what they're doing, and that the aircraft can be relied on to not shed a wing in mid-flight. (I have an especially vivid memory of a flight to Las Vegas a few years ago and a patch of very nasty clear air turbulence over the Rocky Mountains; the plane shook as if Thor were applying his hammer to the fuselage and an elderly woman in the row ahead of me finally said, plaintively, \"I hope this plane is made good!\")</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9a7e0ef3-b8b0-42f5-9ea7-2bce36e9d0f5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f2c884dd-7bef-426a-874f-2bb6139a64ae","3ac5da09-5d21-4428-a5e9-5e98f1f06bd2"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>No, the kind of flying we'd like to do is the kind where we're in the driver's seat – where instead of being passengers, we're in control, with just our skill, steady nerves, and knowledge to guarantee that we make it intact from point A to point B. White silk scarves, goggles, flight jackets, the sound of a propeller driven by a supercharged aircraft engine shredding the air, and yes, the nerves-of-steel atmosphere of aerial combat, are all part of the appeal. Of course, none of those things are features, nowadays, of modern civil aviation (well, the propellers are still around, but if you're taking your Beechcraft Bonanza out to the Vineyard for the weekend, nobody's going to try and shoot you down on the way) but that's the world evoked by mechanical pilot's watches. The environment in which mechanical pilot's watches evolved was one in which utility trumped every other consideration, and it's precisely that singular focus that allows pilot's watches to transcend their utilitarian origins and evoke, powerfully, a bygone world.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Navitimer Old And New"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["59bc1be5-9526-4014-bb4d-ec804d23825d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The original Breitling Navitimer is probably the most specific, in terms of purpose and function, of all pilot's watches, but the term covers what's actually a fairly diverse range of timepieces. The chronograph is strongly identified with aviation (to a significant extent, this is thanks to Breitling), but pilot's watches can certainly be highly accurate time-only watches intended to aid in navigation (often with shielding against magnetic fields) and the category can include GMT and two-time-zone watches as well. Some of the most distinctive watches ever made were pilot's watches, including the Longines-Weems Second-Setting watch and the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-history-and-science-behind-the-lindbergh-longines-hour-angle-watch/" target=\"_blank\">Longines Hour-Angle</a>. Like its brother-in-arms, the diver's watch, the days of a pilot's watch as an essential piece of gear in the cockpit are past; navigation today is a matter of GPS satellites and radar. But like diver's watches, pilot's watches still appeal, because the virtues of the world to which they are connected – bravery, the manifestation of hard-won skills, coolness under pressure – remain universally compelling. Behind every pilot's watch is a dream of being, as they say, \"a natural-born stick-and-rudder man.\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["de4e17b6-fcc7-4d15-9e99-1d70e33e1141"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As any student of aviation watches knows, Breitling probably has more street cred as an aviation supplier than any other single watch manufacturer. The company started making cockpit instruments in its \"Huit Aviation\" department in the 1930s – its first aviation chronograph was made in 1936 (a black-dial model with radium hands and numerals). The first Chronomat, with a slide-rule bezel for general calculations, was produced in 1940 and of course, in 1952, the most famous of Breitling's pilot watches was introduced: the Navitimer, with a bezel that's essentially a miniaturized version of the E6B circular slide-rule flight computer (nicknamed the \"whiz wheel\" or \"prayer wheel\" by pilots) the first version of which was introduced all the way back in 1933. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["fcc5d908-6a64-4ca7-a90f-6524fbf89471"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The interesting thing about the E6B is that unlike a pilot's watch, it's still an important part of modern civil aviation – albeit more often in digital form than not, but many flight schools still train student pilots on the E6B, many aviators still like having one in the cockpit (there isn't an experienced pilot alive who doesn't appreciate the value of backups to essential systems) and the FAA still encourages people taking knowledge tests for their pilot's license to bring one along. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["73840f76-039a-46a2-8328-9c572d7fb5e0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Breitling Navitimer 8 B01 Chronograph is a very significant departure from what many of us had come to think of as the classic look of a Navitimer – that watch is rather more busy than not, and the flight-computer bezel, while instantly recognizable, is even more of an anachronism than the mechanical flight computer on which it's based. I imagine there must be people out there who know how to use one but I'm not one of them – I have a Navitimer on my wrist as I write; I've had a couple of other flight computer bezel watches over the last couple of decades (from Seiko and Citizen) and I must have taught myself how to use the bezel on all of them at least half a dozen times but absent the incentive of sharpening real world flying skills, it never sticks. However, I still like that it exists and that at least in theory, it could be used for aerial navigation if need be; this despite the fact that as the years have accumulated, I've gone from finding the bezel, in use, merely hard to read, to finding it almost impossible to make out without a magnifying glass and very good light. The thought of having to use one in a poorly lit cockpit, with the primary navigation systems out, and with turbulence knocking my presumably small plane around the sky, is enough to make my blood run cold.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["06b8e8af-2641-4f4a-b1bc-6a06c4bcac05"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It initially bothered a lot of people that Breitling's new CEO, Georges Kern, introduced a family of watches with the Navitimer moniker but without the flight bezel – and I was one of them. It doesn't bother me now though. For one thing, if you want a wrist-mounted whiz-wheel wristwatch, Breitling still has them (I count a dozen different versions in the current catalog. And for another thing, after spending some time in the cockpit of one of the most modern small private jets, I'm beginning to think that the emphasis the new Navitimer 8 B01 Chronograph places on instant legibility over the inclusion of a functionality that, in a modern aircraft, is a backup of a backup of a backup, makes a lot of sense.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Before we talk about what the Breitling Navitimer 8 B01 is like in the cockpit, let's talk about what it's like wearing it where most people who own one are going to wear it: on the ground.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Pilot's Watch For Non-Pilots"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0167cabe-71bc-4004-bfa2-d46724781eb5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In some respects, this watch is straight from the decades-old Breitling playbook we've all come to know and love – or not love, as the case may be. It's a large, and on the bracelet it came with on loan from Breitling, rather heavy watch: 43mm x 13.97mm, which although definitely on the wide side, is actually smaller than the current-issue whiz-wheel equipped Navitimer 1 B01, which sits at 46mm in diameter. The absence of the flight computer bezel makes the watch seem to wear about as big, though; however, without the visual clutter created by the flight computer scales, the Navitimer 8 B01 is a far more legible watch, with excellent and pretty instantaneous readability day or night.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It does take a little getting used to, although not as much as you'd think – we've had a darned hot summer here in New York and I've been wearing a lot of dive watches (both on and off duty) and so switching over to a larger, stainless steel chronograph has been a lot less of a transition than it might be in fall or winter, when a smaller watch on a strap is more likely to be on your wrist (and mine). The bracelet is very well made, but for me it feels like rather a lot of metal – were I a gent of more imposing stature, this would of course be less the case – and were I to wear the Navitimer 8 B01 on a longer term basis, at some point I'd probably switch the bracelet out for a strap (Breitling makes a very nice alligator strap and of course there are a plethora of other third-party options).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["17774057-cdd9-488d-8d63-314559ae9824"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The movement is something Breitling's had around for some time now but the company's proud of it, and with reason: the chronograph caliber Breitling 01 was first introduced at Baselworld 2009, and since then, this modern, vertical clutch, column-wheel-controlled, in-house movement has earned a reputation as a solid, reliable piece of work as you could want in a 21st century tool watch. It's even in use, slightly modified, by Tudor, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tudor-black-bay-chronograph-review/" target=\"_blank\">in the Black Bay Chronograph</a>. I've always found operation of the chronograph pushers in this movement to be a little on the stiff side, and in another context I'd be more inclined to take exception, but the unambiguous let-off for start, stop, and reset has the advantage of giving very clear tactile feedback as to whether or not the operation desired is underway.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["6c97bf73-803f-46c9-b30c-b931288fbbf1","410a481f-4ca3-47eb-84b4-0d4d20ae6ba7"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's not, despite Breitling's somewhat deserved reputation in recent years for making rather flashy watches, a flashy watch – on the wrist it's actually a pretty sober presence, which I think would make it, over a period of months or years, a pretty regular part of mine or anyone's rotation. As a very solid entry in the under-$10k in-house automatic chronograph realm, it ought to be an interesting choice for anyone who wants a vintage-inspired watch that doesn't overstate its connection to the past, has a technically up-to-date mechanism, and still feels strongly connected to the original environment that gave rise to the genre of which the Breitling Navitimer 8 B01 is a part. No, it doesn't feel like a whiz-wheel Navitimer, but it certainly feels like a pilot's chronograph (the size is actually a part of the reason why) and it very much feels, to this non-pilot pilot's watch enthusiast, like a pilot's watch and not, so to speak, an illustration of a pilot's watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["09924fd6-2435-485b-a742-0b8d76c8da7d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5e830181-fb60-4997-89e9-61af2037f2c0","f3400d02-9b08-4d13-b812-885af8922821"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One interesting feature of the Navitimer 8 B01 is that it does still have a two-way rotating bezel, albeit a very simple one with just a single discreet triangle showing where the bezel has been set. I wondered at first what the point might be of having two ways of measuring elapsed time intervals; within a couple of days of getting the watch in for a test drive, I found myself using it along with the chronograph to time simultaneously running dryer and laundry loads. That is about as resolutely ground-bound and unromantic a use for the watch as I can imagine, but I took the point that there are probably many situations where having both would be, if not essential, certainly practical and useful.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now one of the most commonplace observations you can make about tool watches like pilot's watches and diver's watches is that for the most part, they won't be used by pilots or divers – that is to say, they won't ever see the ocean depths, nor in the case of a pilot's watch, are they likely to be seen on the wrist of someone in the driver's seat of a modern aircraft. In the interests of seeing just what this watch looks and feels like from <i>that </i>perspective, we reached out to Breitling to see if, thanks to their many connections with aviation – the Breitling jet team is still very much a part of the company's aviation activities, and recently Breitling sponsored the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breitlings-dc-3-to-become-oldest-aircraft-ever-to-circle-the-earth/" target=\"\"><u>flight of a vintage DC-3 around the world</u></a> – they could, as the kids these days say, hook us up.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["e57bc634-86b2-41a0-8376-dc30a4f5faad"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As it turns out, Breitling also has a partnership with Cirrus, which is a maker of some of the most advanced, comfortable, and safe small aircraft today, and with whom the company's partnered in making limited editions for the many Cirrus pilot owners, the most recent of which is a Cirrus and Breitling co-badged version of their <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://cirrusaircraft.com/breitling//" target=\"_blank\">flight-centric analog-digital Aerospace Evo.</a> Getting some air time in a Cirrus aircraft turned out to be a little hard to coordinate thanks to the upcoming Oshkosh air show (a gigantic event that draws over half a million aviation nuts and over 10,000 aircraft of all shapes and sizes) but with some schedule fiddling, we were able to get out to Westchester County Airport one very fine summer afternoon, where we found something pretty exciting waiting for us: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://cirrusaircraft.com/visionjet//" target=\"_blank\">the Cirrus SF50 Vision Jet.</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Analog Watch, Digital Airplane"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5d3b5bfa-f8cd-400c-af59-d9029614e89b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>My only experience in the cockpit of an aircraft prior to the SF50 Vision Jet has been in high-fidelity computer flight simulators, which are more or less an abandoned genre nowadays, though they were once a thriving category of PC games. My personal favorites were all military flight sims for everything from propeller-driven World War II airplanes (the Soviet IL-2 Sturmovik) to modern ground attack aircraft (the A-10 Thunderbolt) and my personal favorite, the F-16 Fighting Falcon, which is nicknamed the Viper by its pilots, and which was the subject of the classic flight-sim, Falcon 4.0. The F-16 was the first fly-by-wire aircraft, with no mechanical linkage between the controls and control surfaces, and featured a number of other innovations, including a one-piece domed canopy for improved visibility, and a side-stick; it was also called \"the Electric Jet.\"</p>\n\n<p>The simulator features a so-called virtual cockpit – basically, your point of view is the one you'd have in the pilot's seat, and all the buttons and switches work as they would in a real airplane. The aerodynamic characteristics of the airplane are accurately modeled as well, and the manual is over 300 pages – it's an immersive experience, but the learning curve is very steep and rather than doing a lot of knocking the plane around the sky in gripping one-on-one encounters, you actually spend a surprising amount of time managing tracking radar sub-modes and trying to spoof enemy air-to-air missiles, which has all the glamour of proofreading a machinist's manual on making screws, combined with the threat of instant death if you miss a semicolon.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a24e5654-1019-4f50-b23a-4b4150c57772"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The workload in a simulator can be pretty high, but it doesn't compare to what it's like being in a small, non-commercial aircraft designed to be flown by a pilot/owner. The Vision is the smallest and least expensive personal private jet in the world – now, \"least expensive\" is a relative term; if you want to buy one, be prepared, if you order it now, to spend $1.96 million (and wait five years; they're in very high demand). This is, however, about half the cost of the next most expensive private jet. You get quite a lot for your money, as well – the aircraft has an incredibly spacious cabin for the size (we had plenty of room for me, the pilot, and two increasingly nervous videographers with tripods and DSLRs). Five adults can ride at a maximum cruising altitude of 28,000 feet and a speed of 300 knots in much better comfort and having a hell of a lot more fun than you will find in any commercial aircraft. (It's grossly unfair, but I'm always more nervous in small regional aircraft than in a big jet ... I can't help feeling that the air crew must have been unable to play in the majors). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The turbofan jet engine is mounted on top of the carbon fiber fuselage, which reduces cabin noise and also reduces the chance of sucking a runway-crossing squirrel into the air intake. That's the reason for the V-shaped tail – a standard tailfin would stick right up into the engine exhaust – which in combination with the very pretty lines of the jet overall, make it a most eye-catching presence in the hangar or in the air. The biggest talking point of the SF50 Vision, other than the tremendous bang for the buck it offers, is the CAPS system. CAPS stands for Cirrus Airframe Parachute System, which goes one better the paranoid flyer's fantasy of having their own parachute – it's a rocket-deployed parachute system for the entire aircraft, and if things really go south and you've decided to place survival over pride, you have but to pull the big red handle set into the ceiling right above the pilot's seat, and the parachute will deploy, lowering the whole plane relatively gently to earth. The CAPS system is present on all Cirrus aircraft, both jet and piston engine models and since it was first used by a Cirrus owner in 2002, it's been deployed nearly 90 times and has saved over 150 lives, making Cirrus planes some of the safest in the world.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["820f525d-964a-495d-9146-2affa52207f0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Inside the aircraft (our pilot was in the right hand seat, with me in the left) you notice that rather than a standard, steering-wheel-like yoke, you have a side-stick, just as you'd find in the F-16 and many other modern jet fighters. The view from the cockpit is amazing – the SF50 has gigantic windows and visibility couldn't be better. The instrumentation is from Garmin and it is up-to-the-minute modern: a dual touchscreen display, which can be customized as the situation warrants, and which takes the place of a traditional analog altimeter, airspeed indicator, attitude indicator, and so on. The display also shows other critical navigation and flight information, including any other traffic out to a range of 8 miles (including direction and altitude info) a visual representation of the landscape over which you're flying, including any obstacles higher than your altitude (which are shown in red) status of aircraft systems, potentially problematic weather, and on and on. There are an abundance of caution and warning systems, and the automated warning voice pilots have nicknamed \"Bitchin' Betty\" will primly alert you to the presence of incoming traffic, unsafe altitude, engine malfunction or fire (god forbid), and in general keep you on your toes.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b3a55c11-1868-44cc-9e2c-3f4d7db05e4d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Our flight took about an hour and a half, and we followed a route from Westchester to just past the Statue of Liberty, turning left after takeoff to head west over the Tappan Zee Bridge, and then turning south to follow the Hudson River to New York Harbor. The airspace over Manhattan is some of the busiest in the world, especially on a weekday afternoon in the summer, and at our low altitude – we were at about a thousand feet or less for most of the flight, with the top floors of several skyscrapers actually higher than we were – things can get exciting. They say that if you make it in New York you can make it anywhere and the same is true, I've heard, about flying in and around New York – between all the heliports, regional airports, La Guardia, JFK, and Newark you can't swing a stick without hitting an aircraft, and it seemed like every two minutes Betty was alerting us to nearby traffic on a potentially problematic vector. This is all by way of saying that the workload on the pilot is significant to put it mildly – we were moving fast and more than once, other aircraft (choppers especially) seemed to come alarmingly close – but our pilot was cool as a cucumber, just the way you'd want it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["75c72466-2184-4a95-bf2e-f85125e38361"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I had a chance to take the stick on the way back, which was probably the most exciting 15 minutes I've ever had at work. We had a little turbulence, but nothing terrible, and visibility was as clear as you could want all the way out to the horizon. Our pilot talked me through a leisurely left hand turn to put us on final. All us simulator jockeys would like to think we could handle a real airplane, and for sure, a simulator is a really useful context to have, but there is something about feeling an actual aircraft respond to your joystick inputs for which a flight sim does not prepare you, and I noticed the chatter from the back seats settle into a worried silence. The stick was much more resistant than I'd expected to control inputs; it has pretty robust centering springs, I suspect, all of which is part of the jet's overall design, which is intended to return you to safe level flight as quickly as possible. As with modern cars, there is a <i>lot </i>of software helping to keep the already inherently very stable jet out of trouble – you would have to defeat a number of built-in safety systems to stall the aircraft and short of willfully flying into the ground or deliberately ignoring bad weather or icing warnings, it's hard to imagine seriously endangering yourself in the Vision. And if you do, well, there's always that big red handle.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Flight Report"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There were a couple of takeaways from the whole experience. First and foremost, for someone piloting an aircraft – especially someone flying a smaller aircraft through busy airspace – there's a lot to keep track of. I'd never felt especially overwhelmed in the zero-consequences environment of a flight simulator but in one of the front seats of a real plane, you become aware very quickly that there's a lot going on and a lot that requires your undivided attention. That means that if you want to keep track of the time, you probably want a watch that's extremely easy to read and that doesn't have any unnecessary frills. In this respect the Navitimer 8 B01 might actually be a more practical choice than the original flight-bezel Navitimer. A larger watch in the context of a busy cockpit is a blessing – it takes only a glance to read the time, and although there are other timers built into the glass cockpit touchscreen displays, if you did want to use the watch for keeping track of flight time as well, you'd find it a rock-solid backup to modern avionics.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["687b6305-945e-48c1-a36c-16098e5b8132"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The environment in the cockpit is also one that would tend to favor a sturdy watch over something more delicate – you're not doing anything as apt to bash your watch around as rock climbing or mountain biking, but it's still relatively tight quarters and knocking into things tends to come with the territory. You wouldn't necessarily expect any really high-G impacts (unless of course, the whole aircraft is misbehaving, in which case you have other problems) but if you're going to have a watch at all, having one that can reliably keep time under pressure, that you can read instantly, and that you don't have to baby, is a major plus.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["aba624ac-13ad-412d-923d-ee3e83c3ecd0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>That someone at the controls of an ultra-modern jet like the SF50 Vision might actually find an analogue mechanical watch useful came as something of a surprise to me, but thanks to the complexity of the cockpit and the significant demands on pilot attention, it's a good thing to have along. It reminds me very much of the E6B flight computer – the original metal version, not the digital one. It's not going to be anyone's primary instrument, but it's never a bad thing to have something that's not dependent on battery power and which can take over some functionality should something go wrong. Despite the presence of the very sophisticated instrumentation in the SF50, being able to see the time quickly and easily on your wrist remains a reassuring supplement to all the digital sophistication at your fingertips, and as someone remarked on <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.pilotsofamerica.com/community/threads/the-e6b-mechanical-flight-computer.52420//" target=\"_blank\">a pilot's discussion forum</a>, \" ... having a mechanical, 100% reliable, backup is priceless when you really need it.\" The conversation was about the E6B flight computer but the point remains apropos.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f10b5101-f7ad-4aa9-9774-4d95c089870c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Taken in the context of modern technology, at first glance the Navitimer 8 B01 Chronograph seems an anachronism. However this is not entirely true. Spending a little time in the cockpit is a reminder that while technology changes, the basic needs of a pilot flying a plane remain the same: you need easy access to visually unambiguous information, delivered with maximum clarity and minimum chance of confusion. I found the Navitimer 8 B01 very much at home up in the air, even surrounded by up-to-the-minute technology, because fundamentally, it and that technology are built around the same principles. The best instruments are ones that don't call attention to themselves, but to the information they deliver and in that respect, the apparently plain-Jane qualities of the Navitimer 8 B01 become virtues.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Nobody needs a pilot's watch – probably. Like the mechanical diver's watch, though, they're not entirely obsolete, either. First of all, having something backing up essential systems is a fundamental aspect of risk reduction, whether you're in the air or underwater. Secondly, in highlighting one or two essential pieces of information, they serve a valuable, if supplementary, practical purpose.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d46da371-6396-413e-8446-926a27751d38"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Finally, what you want from a tool watch – to return to an earlier point – is the knowledge that it's an honest expression of the original purpose for which that category of watch is intended. The enduring appeal of the most classic pilot's watches and dive watches largely stems from their fidelity to form-follows-function. A true pilot's watch is a rather spare thing, but that's exactly what gives it its authenticity – it's content to actually <i>be </i>a pilot's watch, rather than trying to act the part. The original Navitimer was, and is, such a watch but it's also rooted in a particular era, when knowing how to use an E6B was absolutely essential. The Navitimer 8 B01 Chronograph reaches further back in Breitling's design history than the original Navitimer – all the way back to the 1930s. Yet it somehow manages to seem even more timeless than the original, because of its fidelity to a time when the fundamental design vocabulary of aircraft instrumentation were first being established.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["be6da198-e3fd-490e-90b0-04fddc0e164e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Navitimer 8 B01 taken alone, is a sturdy, slightly large, rather austere wristwatch. Taken in the larger context of aviation, however, it takes on a different feel – even if you never fly an airplane in your life, knowing your watch is built to work, and work well, in the world it looks like it was made for, makes it a watch that radiates the strength of its convictions in its own functional integrity.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["04cb404f-b66c-40ff-9634-9effce30fff5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>See the Navitimer 8 B01 Chronograph collection </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.breitling.com/us-en/find-your-breitling/new-watches//" target=\"_blank\"><i>at Breitling.com.</i></a><i> For more info on the Cirrus SF50 Vision Jet, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://cirrusaircraft.com/visionjet//" target=\"_blank\"><i>check out cirrusaircraft.com</i></a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://cirrusaircraft.com/aircraft/vision-jet//" target=\"_blank\"><i>.</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"45222633-7a53-46da-9848-a446f4b4463f","container_id":5736,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1537967330404-d1y70gshaie-59c2c62b5ddc70cb43c489872413377c/_hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2018-07-21T19:12:01.611-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T08:54:22.225-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1537967330404-d1y70gshaie-59c2c62b5ddc70cb43c489872413377c/_hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breitling-navitimer-8-b01-chrongraph-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Breitling Navitimer 8 B01 Chronograph","tags":[]},{"id":5878,"slug":"apple-watch-series-4-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"Apple Watch Series 4","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2018-09-19T06:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2018-09-18T09:51:10.904-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:03:27.503-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>The future of the Apple Watch is coming into focus – and I like what I'm starting to see.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106671907001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":233219,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>During my tenure covering the watch industry, there is no single watch that has been talked about more than the Apple Watch. At first glance, this is very strange. The device is not made by a watchmaker, it is not distributed and sold through the traditional channels for selling watches and jewelry, it has none of the <i>patrimonie</i> and heritage that watch brands so love to talk about, and its primary purpose is almost certainly not telling the time. But then you remember that it is a key product for the most valuable company in the history of the human race, it is created by some of the best designers and engineers on planet Earth, and it is making the case for wearing a watch to a generation who previously roamed the streets with naked wrists. So yeah, I'm not actually all that surprised it garners the attention it does.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Last week, Apple announced a new generation of Apple Watch and I was fortunate enough to be loaned one for a review. I've spent the last six days wearing the Series 4, putting it through its paces. I've been checking out all those new, supposedly life-changing features that were exuberantly spoken about during Apple's keynote presentation at the perfectly-appointed Steve Jobs Theater. I've been exploring the updated operating system, watchOS 5, to see how the Apple Watch is changing at the platform level. I've been thinking a lot about Apple's long-term vision for the Apple Watch and how it's starting to come into clearer focus. And, finally, I've been thinking about how the Apple Watch Series 4 stands up as a product on its own merits and whether or not I think you should open up your Macbook, launch Safari, and pre-order one right now.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Let's get into it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Where We're At, And How We Got There"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a581f442-8e7d-406d-9d7a-15a1bb21cb6d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Apple Watch is a relatively young product, though it's starting to reach maturity. If we're talking in watchmaking terms, it's still an infant, but I think measuring the Apple Watch against centuries-old products that run on 18th-century technology is a silly thing. Thinking more like a modern technology company, smartwatches have only become a serious product category in the last six or seven years, and the Apple watch is still under five years old. When you compare that to the smartphone market or the tablet market, both of which are just a hair over a decade old, you start to realize that the Apple Watch should just be hitting its stride right about now.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>Last year, Apple made the biggest jump yet in the Apple Watch's short history by adding cellular connectivity for the very first time. Ben's in-depth review of the Series 3 not only looked at the watch itself and what cell service meant for the product, but also at the Apple Watch's broader market positioning, how it fits into Apple at large, and how the Apple Watch compares to traditional watches.</p>\n\n<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/apple-watch-series-3-edition-review/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Check out his full review with video here.</i></a></p>","title":"The Apple Watch Series 3","images":["7c0d95de-4cb6-438c-b6ec-a5da57edcb96"],"alignment":"right"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Apple Watch was <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hodinkee-apple-watch-review/" target=\"_blank\">unveiled in September 2014 at a massive event</a> hosted at the same theater in Cupertino, California, where Steve Jobs unveiled the original Macintosh in 1984. It rolled out to customers a few months later in April 2015 and made quite a splash. There were solid gold models selling for $18,000 and Apple created custom versions with solid gold bracelets for the likes of Beyoncé and Karl Lagerfeld. It would be a full 18 months before the Watch got its first hardware refresh in September 2016, with a full operating system overhaul having been announced earlier that year. From there on out the Watch has been on an annual product cycle, getting an update each fall alongside Apple's flagship iPhone.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Last year was the most significant update yet for the Apple Watch. The Series 3 introduced cellular connectivity to the device, allowing wearers to use the full suite of apps, send and receive messages, and even dial phone calls – all independently of the paired iPhone. It might sound a bit trivial, but it's certainly not. This was Apple telegraphing that the company views the Apple Watch as a primary device, not an accessory. This isn't a pair of Airpods or a dongle we're talking about here. In <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/apple-watch-series-3-edition-review/" target=\"_blank\">his review of the Apple Watch Series 3</a>, our founder Ben Clymer went so far as to say that \"the cellular capabilities <i>alone</i> elevate this product from a niche peripheral to something that could become instrumental to millions of people's daily lives.\" I didn't disagree with him at the time, and a year later his statement is only looking more spot-on.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f1db65f5-5a3f-4a53-929e-e28e5d808c65"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This year's presentation contained all the same things we've come to expect from an Apple Keynote about the Apple Watch. We were shown stylish marketing images of people traveling the world with their Watches on-wrist, we were reminded that the Apple Watch is, by revenue, the best selling watch on the planet, and we of course got updated on all the specs of the new Series 4. But for me, the most important slide in the whole presentation came just a minute or so after Apple Chief Operating Officer Jeff Williams took the stage to kick off the watch-centric portion of the morning. You can see it above, and it perfectly sums up the company's current vision for the Watch, which can be divided into three main areas: The Apple Watch is about connecting us to the world and the people most important to us, encouraging us to live better lives by being fit and active, and enabling us to monitor our health through a full suite of sensors and apps. As we get into the Series 4 and what it brings to the table, keep these three things in mind. They're important.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"What's New"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["58e2796b-9923-427f-9ef5-9db9ac45fbc0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>To start with a cliché, the Apple Watch Series 4 is more of an evolution than a revolution. It doesn't have some new fundamental change that upends what we thought a smartwatch could be. But that's okay. Instead, it makes a number of incremental changes, some that you'll experience every time you raise your wrist and others that you might never notice, but the end result is an Apple Watch that feels like it has a clear idea of how you should be using it and how it can be helpful to you.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This isn't just a review of the Apple Watch Series 4, though. It's also a review of watchOS 5, the company's latest wrist-bound operating system, which rolled out earlier this week to existing Apple Watch users. Apple always talks about hardware and software working together and how their vertically integrated approach allows them to take full advantage of the connections between the two, creating a seamless experience. They're as obsessed with this idea as Swiss watchmakers are with the idea of \"in-house\" and being a <i>manufacture</i>, and for good reason: the OS and hardware really are intrinsically tied together and function best as a single unit.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7fcb5c90-d420-4b38-98cc-dc04d8ecc93d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Series 4 is very much a vehicle for delivering the best watchOS 5 experience Apple can create. If you want the full suite of features, especially some of the advanced health and fitness features, you'll need a Series 4 to join the party. However, there are plenty of people who will keep their Series 3 and Series 2 watches (watchOS 5 is <i>not</i> compatible with the OG Apple Watch, sorry) and just update the operating system. It's worth thinking about what those folks are getting this week too and to what extent they are and are not along for the ride Apple is now taking us on with the Apple Watch at large. So, while we look at the Apple Watch Series 4 and how it leverages watchOS 5 to the fullest, we'll also note where existing Watch users get new experiences too.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Apple Watch Series 4"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["1f4c56b0-7a81-4a64-a7a8-48f01bd86597"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>At first glance, the Series 4 looks like...an Apple Watch. Any rumors that Apple was going to massively change the form factor were dispelled the moment the first image of this watch appeared on screen, and I think it's highly unlikely that Apple abandons this general form any time soon. The watch is meant to display information, most of which is text, so the rectangular display minimizes weird cropping offers the most usable screen space possible. And as far as the Series 4 goes, its motto might as well be: \"You know, Apple Watch, but <i>more.</i>\" </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["64772e30-5b2c-4cf2-9ac0-18eda44c5023"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b666450a-612d-429d-bf8e-8433cf764c5b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The most fundamental \"more\" that we get is more actual hardware on our wrists. The two sizes have been upped from 38mm and 42mm to 40mm and 44mm, but these measurements are a bit deceiving. The 44mm watch is actually 44mm high x 38mm wide x 10.7mm thick, while the earlier 42mm watch was 42.5mm x 36.4mm x 11.4mm; likewise, the 40mm watch is 40mm x 34mm x 10.7mm, while the 38mm watch was 38.6mm x 33.3mm x 11.4mm.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>One of the most anticipated features of the Series 4 is its ability to take an electrocardiogram on demand. This is enabled by the addition of electrodes to the rear sensor array and the inclusion of an electrode in the Digital Crown. The hardware is good-to-go, but the feature won't roll out until later this fall. Obviously we couldn't test it, but it's a key part of Apple's health-focused strategy.</p>\n\n<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.apple.com/apple-watch-series-4/health//" target=\"_blank\">You can learn more about it here.</a></p>","title":"Electrocardiograms And The Apple Watch","images":["fe4a5f44-5b4b-4fd1-af1b-49643896b409"],"alignment":"left"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Even setting aside the fact that previous models majorly rounded down the longest measurements (like, big time), a little long division will tell you that the aspect ratios have changed every so slightly too to keep everything streamlined. The most apparent size difference is actually the thickness – the 0.7mm shaved off the back (mostly from the sensor array) makes a huge difference in terms of comfort and you feel it the moment you put one of these new models on.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Visually though, the watches appear much bigger than their predecessors. This is because all that extra space is being taken up by more display, not wider bezels. Both models show more than a 30% increase in display size from prior models. You can see in the diagrams above how pronounced this is in theory, and it's every bit that significant in practice too. You no longer get that slightly eerie floating image effect when something goes full screen, and the rounded corners help make everything feel a lot more polished.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I'll assuage some of your biggest fears right now: No, you do not need to buy all new watch bands for these news sizes. Apple smartly made sure that the shapes of the new cases make them compatible with the old sizes of bands (38mm for the 40mm and 42mm for the 44mm). When they said this at last week's presentation I was a little skeptical and figured you'd at least be able to notice a small difference, but I should have know better. There's zero noticeable difference – just check out how this 42mm Nike+ Sport Bands looks on the 44mm watch. I know, right?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["20d0f2e6-72b7-4fa9-88d4-2e3e5fdabfc0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>On the side of the watch, you'll notice things are a little more streamlined. The main button now sits flush with the case and the Digital Crown no longer has that big red dot on the cellular models. Instead, there's a simple red ring that traces the edge of the ECG electrode set into the crown itself. The crown has another hidden feature in the form of haptic feedback. Each menu and list of things in watchOS 5 now has its own set of \"clicks\" so you get the best feedback possible. I won't nerd out too much about this, but it's a subtle thing that ensures you always feel like you can get things <i>just</i> right. Smart move, Apple.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Flip the Series 4 over and you'll notice that the back looks very different from that of previous models. This time the caseback is made entirely of black ceramic and sapphire. Technical advantages and new sensors aside, it just looks very cool. I half expect the optical heart rate sensor to glow red and for the watch to start singing \"Daisy\" to me out of the speaker on the left side of the case (which is 50% louder, FYI) before jettisoning me into deep space. The rings around that sensor are the new electrical heart rate sensors, which will be use to perform Electrocardiograms once that feature rolls out later this fall. Apple says that the new materials aren't just aesthetic though – they're supposed to improve cellular and wi-fi connectivity, since the ceramic won't block the antennae. I didn't run any strict tests here, but during my week with the watch I didn't have a single issue, so I guess it's working just fine.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2d188086-effd-4bac-a3ec-1c78f8c56139"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Series 4 comes in two materials, aluminum and stainless steel, with each available in a number of finishes that correspond to this year's crop of iPhones. The watch I've been wearing is a 44mm stainless steel model in the new polished gold stainless steel finish. The number one question I've been getting from colleagues and friends this week is, \"Wait, is that solid gold?\" and no, it's just gold colored. There have previously been solid gold Watches and aluminum watches anodized to a soft gold color, but never something with this combination of shine, heft, and affordability. There's definitely something a little luxe here and the particular shade of gold is a little warm and a little soft at the same time – it reminds me of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-lange-1-time-zone-honey-gold-live-pics/" target=\"_blank\">A. Lange & Söhne's Honey Gold</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chanel-calibre-3-hands-on/" target=\"_blank\">Chanel's Beige Gold</a> a little, though it's not quite as pale as either.</p>\n\n<p>It's worth noting that there is no \"Edition\" model of the Series 4, so no full ceramic or solid gold models this year. I really wish there was a grey ceramic option, but I think I'll find a way to survive without one. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3ff3d150-88d4-4464-92de-86fbb6c1205d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Luckily, the gold Series 4 comes on the perfect watch band, Apple's Milanese Loop in a matching gold finish. You can get it without this band for $100 less, but you'd be doing things super wrong if you did. The Milanese Loop has been my favorite Apple Watch band since I first put one on back in 2014 and nothing has changed there. It's comfortable, it's infinitely adjustable, and it looks incredible. The lugs sit perfectly in the case, giving the whole package a proto-1970s, fully integrated look, and the mesh is just shiny enough without being outright flashy. In gold, it's all that and more. I'd describe it as a bit rakish, and in the best way possible.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"watchOS 5"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["b1b4167f-ae2c-4190-a276-781ea414d693"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The moment you push that flush side button and the abyss-like screen flashes on, you'll find yourself in watchOS 5. This upgrade is also available to existing Apple Watch owners, but there are a handful of features exclusive to the Series 4 that take advantage of the new hardware. Chief among them is a new watch face, the so-called Infograph face. This face is designed to take full advantage of that new display, and on the 44mm watch you really see it. The information almost feels like it's exploding out from the center of the dial and might escape if you're not careful. </p>\n\n<p>The Infograph gives you space for eight complications on a single dial, with one of them being a little special. At each corner you can place what we'll call a \"rich\" complication, which gives you a little more information than previous complications did. My two favorites are the temperature, which now gives you the day's high and low in addition to the current temperature, and the moonphase indicator, which also gives you the time of moonrise at your current location. At the center of the dial, nested inside the main time display, you get three more basic complications at three, six, and nine o'clock, and then at 12 o'clock you can place a complication that gives you an extra line of information that swoops across the top of the dial. For this spot, I found myself using the calendar the most, though the activity complication also works nicely, showing your individual metrics all in one spot.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["47bd7ae1-17d7-42ec-bbfb-4c8bb19e143b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There's another variation on this face called the Infograph Modular. It's a more digitally-styled option with the same goal of packing in as much dense information as possible onto a single screen. Here you get the same rich complications lined up along the bottom, as well as a special complication spot that takes up the entire width of the dial. Apple has opened this to third-party developers too, so over the coming weeks there should be tons of options out there for you to choose from. Things like flight information, calendar details, and even extended weather reports are particularly well-suited to the additional real estate. To me, the Infograph Modular feels closest to the idea of a \"personal dashboard,\" which is something that's been spoken about since the early days of the Apple Watch. I think this one is going to be extremely popular, and I could see those who use the Apple Watch for productivity enjoying it in particular.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["298b4a1b-13c9-49e8-886f-8478ac8460d1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["404803db-6341-4198-aca8-43843e69b49d","b820a949-8301-4675-9791-fe5ed44eb312"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But I'll be totally honest here: Both of these new faces, no matter how elegantly they're designed (and they are), just have too much info for me. I'm someone who keeps his mobile notifications to a minimum, preferring to check in on things when it suits my schedule rather than having to triage a constant barrage of dings and pop-up banners. If it's not mission-critical, I don't turn it on. So my personal favorite faces are actually some of the most pared-back options available in watchOS 5. These have names like Liquid Metal, Vapor, and Fire/Water. The Apple team used high-speed photography and practical effects to capture these – they're not renders – and they look unbelievable. Each time you raise your wrist you get a small show and the time. That's it. There's something calming about them and I found them distracting in a good way – it's like carrying a moment of zen around with you all day. There are versions of these available for Series 2 and 3 watches, but you don't get the incredible full-screen experience unless you've got the Series 4. Sorry. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["271a740c-6df2-45c3-a1e6-fdef8f37d6b6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Ultimately though, the most important new features have to do with health and fitness. This is clearly where Apple is investing the most energy with the Apple Watch and it's there where the company seems to think it can make the biggest impact. In addition to the aforementioned ECG feature that's coming, the Series 4 and watchOS 5 include notifications for low heartbeat, irregular heartbeat detection, and slip and fall detection. I'm happy to say that I didn't experience any of these notifications during my week with the Series 4. There are some new workouts in Apple's Workout app, including yoga and hiking, that use new algorithms and existing sensors to give you more precise readouts on those activities. Importantly, there's also auto-detect for workouts, so if you start running and forget to start the app, you can do it retroactively. This is one of those features that's ignorable until it's not and then it's just what you always wanted. As far as watch faces go, there's a new Breathe face that brings the popular slow breathing app right to your main time display. It's not the pure volume of features that's important here, but rather their centrality to Apple's vision of how one is supposed to use the Apple Watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are a handful of other new watchOS 5 features, such as Walkie Talkie (which lets you send short audio messages back and forth in real time) and the ability to challenge your friends to Activity Competitions, but with just 48 hours between the launch of watchOS 5 and this story running, getting enough friends onboard to really experiment with these wasn't in the cards. The new raise-and-speak Siri works just fine, though it didn't really encourage me to use Siri any more than I already do (read: hardly ever).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A Week On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["361fde57-9f76-4d43-a123-8ba17becf50b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Having followed the Apple Watch story since the very first rumors surfaced though to last week's event, covering basically every release and software update in between, I like to think that I know the Apple Watch pretty well. But putting a new model on for the first time always requires a bit of an adjustment period. Finding the right apps, dialing in the perfect notification settings, and getting all your watch faces set up is a work in progress. I jumped right into the deep end on day one and set up the Infograph and Infograph Modular faces, forcing myself to use them instead of my more comfortable Explorer default.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cbeda751-21d9-4705-b3a2-0a585ac890ed"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For the first day or two, as I'd raise my wrist and the display would flick on, I would almost want to jump back, confronted by the sheer volume of information staring back at me. The display isn't actually any brighter or more pixel dense, but the size of it plays tricks on your eyes and make everything look at little, well, <i>more</i>. There's that word again. By the third or fourth day though, I had settled into the new experience, using quick-access timers to keep my pasta <i>al dente</i> and checking multiple time zone displays to perfectly time calls to colleagues in Switzerland. Despite my preference for minimalism, there's something to be said for having so much well-organized data available at a glance.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["93fa15b0-301e-4141-b94b-f57986311cd7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of my favorite new watchOS 5 features is, without question, the support for the Podcast app. This is one of those features that you've probably always assumed was there – unless you went to search for it and came up empty handed and disappointed, that is. Apple's pitching it as part of the fitness sell, suggesting that it gives you new opportunities for listening to things while you work out. That's very true, and I know my wife, who is currently training for a marathon, is very thankful for the update, but I think being able to enjoy a leisurely listen over lunch or on the Subway without having to fiddle with my phone is every bit as nice. Plus, there's now no excuse for missing episodes of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/podcast/" target=\"_blank\">HODINKEE Radio</a> (I'm half joking).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["237e6bc7-e90a-4151-8a08-529f3341fbe0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>That said, it is ultimately the fitness applications that have me loving the Apple Watch Series 4. I've been running with both the Nike Run Club app and the running function in Apple's Workout app, and they each have their benefits. The former is a bit more bare bones and provides better training programs, while the latter now offers a super in-depth look at how you're actually doing out there on the road. I think I'll likely keep using both going forward, taking advantage of each when it makes the most sense. The gamifying of fitness is nothing new, but closing those darn activity rings is just so much fun and I am looking forward to challenging friends sometime soon. </p>\n\n<p>Beyond new features and new faces, there's another important upgrade hidden in the Series 4: the new S4 chip. This watch is blazing fast. The original Apple Watch suffered from speed problems and even the Series 3 could get a little sluggish at time. With the Series 4, I've had no problems. Zero. The watch is snappy and responsive, doing exactly what I need when I need it. It's hard to overstate how big a difference this makes in overall user experience. Staring down at your wrist, tapping your toes and grimacing is not something anyone wants to be doing when they just want to know if it's going to rain or not.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Big Questions"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["706ab417-978c-4568-9218-fc197aa9c27f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>All of this leads us to two big questions: 1) Should I buy an Apple Watch Series 4? and 2) Is the Series 4 really going to convince me to set aside my mechanical watches?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>For Volume 2 of the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/magazine/" target=\"_blank\">HODINKEE Magazine</a>, our founder, Ben Clymer, sat down with none other than Apple Chief Design Officer Jony Ive to talk about everything from the Apple Watch's original inspiration, what he hopes it adds to customers' lives, and where he sees the product going in the future – and Ive's own collection of mechanical watches, of course.</p>\n\n<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/magazine/jony-ive-apple/" target=\"_blank\">Read the full story right here.</a></p>","title":"Jony Ive On Watches","images":["8cabb318-2ece-4ce5-940b-42dc85a84575"],"alignment":"right"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>We'll start with the first question. The short answer is \"maybe.\" With last year's Series 3 introducing cellular to the mix, we got a much more obvious reason to say \"yes,\" but that doesn't mean there aren't good reasons to buy a Series 4. If you have a heart condition or want more ways to monitor your health in general, definitely pick out a Series 4 model for yourself. If you find yourself wanting more information at a glance and aren't yet satisfied with what your existing Apple Watch (assuming you have one) can do, you're going to get a lot more out of the Series 4 and it's probably worth the investment. If you find the idea of the Apple Watch exciting but find your current model to be a little too slow, the under-the-hood improvement themselves should justify an upgrade. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Maybe most importantly though, if you've never owned an Apple Watch and have found yourself wondering whether or not it could be a good fit for your life, the Series 4 makes a really compelling case for giving it a shot. This feels like the first iteration on Apple's fully thought through Apple Watch archetype, defined by those three principles outlined by Jeff Williams at the beginning of last week's keynote (and referenced at the beginning of this story). It's cohesive, it's ambitious, and it might just encourage you to reshape your habits and behaviors for the better. If you still haven't given the Apple Watch a shot and you've been waiting for the right moment, this is that moment. Go for it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["18d71425-1c41-4f97-84b3-6620d3f9714e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now, what are you to do about the perennial dilemma facing Apple Watch-curious watch folks? Will you want to trade in your mechanical watches for an Apple Watch? No, you won't. But I do think it's worth adding an Apple Watch to your rotation if you don't already have one. I'm not one for working out with mechanical watches on, so right there I've got an opening in my life for an Apple Watch. There are also days where it's good to have a little extra info at hand and leaving that vintage sports watch in its box at home for a few hours isn't the worst thing in the world.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>From there, I think you'll likely learn a bit about your connection to watches too. What is it that you miss and what is it that you don't miss about your more traditional timepieces? What does the Apple Watch bring to your life that your mechanical watches can't? These are all good questions and I know plenty of watch collectors (myself and a few other HODINKEE editors among them) who enjoy rotating an Apple Watch in with their other watches. The days of watch lovers dismissing the Apple Watch are long gone and at this point it feels almost like a must-have for anyone truly interested in timepieces more generally.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A Machine For Living With"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["5b0ffc2e-17d9-4f28-a016-469851e4ed08"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Le Corbusier famously called the house \"a machine for living in\" (<i>Une maison est une machine-à-habiter</i>, for those of you who want to check the French), referring to the idea that a house is merely a tool that we use to help us live our daily lives. A good house, Corb suggests, is a house that makes regular tasks and activities easier and more pleasurable. What Apple is creating with the Apple Watch is a machine for living <i>with</i>. The Apple Watch is a device that sits right on your body, accompanying you throughout your day, ostensibly making your daily routine a bit easier and more enjoyable in the process.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Apple Watch Series 4 has been designed from its most basic elements to facilitate three things: connectivity, activity, and wellness. If we think about what 21st-century life looks like for many of us, these are three of the most important areas of our day-to-day lives. The Watch is a companion on your morning run, keeping your training program on track; it guides you through your day, keeping you on time and aware of what's going on; it helps you get to dinner on time and to keep your iPhone in your bag during that date; it tracks your activity silently and chimes in if it notices anything that should cause concern. At its best, it provides a sense of comfort and reliability without getting in the way quite as much as a smartphone might. And at its worst, it's merely another screen offering you information you could probably find somewhere else. It seems like the risk/reward balance is starting to tip pretty strongly in one direction.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b9dc732d-248a-4579-b6bc-e7e9c7888c31"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now, I want to make it abundantly clear here: I am not saying that you absolutely need an Apple Watch. You don't. You can live a healthy, active, productive life without an Apple Watch. People have been doing it for quite a while. But with the Series 4, Apple is making a case for the future of the Apple Watch. Maybe I'm being naive in some way, but based on the current trajectory of the Apple Watch and the stated goals for the category, it looks to me like we're no more than a few years away from it being almost a necessity. The argument for wearing anything else on your wrist is getting tougher to make each year, and this year is no exception. What does that mean for you mechanical watches in the long term, you might wonder? To be honest, I'm not sure, but we'll cross that bridge when we come to it and we've still got a way to go.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For now though, the Apple Watch Series 4 truly is, as Apple is fond of saying, the best Apple Watch yet. It's a mature expression of what the Apple Watch can be, taking the next steps on the path set out by Apple over the last four years and showing us early glimpses of where it might go in the future. So whether you're someone still wandering around with a naked wrist, checking the time by pulling out your phones like it's a new-age pocket watch, or a die-hard watch collector who can't imagine giving up their mechanical marvels, I think it's high time you give the Apple Watch a shot.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>The Apple Watch Series 4 is </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.apple.com/shop/buy-watch/apple-watch/" target=\"_blank\"><i>available for pre-order now</i></a><i>, with delivery beginning this Friday, September 21. Prices start at $399 and the watch you see in this review sells for $849. Current Apple Watch owners can upgrade to watchOS 5 now. </i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Editor's Note"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e211290e-1070-4a2d-a7f8-59a23b1317fc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While the review here is limited to the Apple Watch Series 4, I also received a sample of the new iPhone Xs to pair with it. As a little exercise, we shot all of the photos for this story on that new phone. You can read plenty of reviews of the phone itself elsewhere, but in case you had any doubts, the new camera system takes a damn fine wrist shot.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"6cf711e1-0bc8-47a7-b979-14a8a072d888","container_id":5878,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1537303429652-31c95gfibom-84b57c4c7ce3c5ae30c02ced4d2ff842/3H0A1157_copy.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2018-09-18T09:51:11.451-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T08:54:42.582-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1537303429652-31c95gfibom-84b57c4c7ce3c5ae30c02ced4d2ff842/3H0A1157_copy.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/apple-watch-series-4-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: Apple Watch Series 4","tags":[]},{"id":5864,"slug":"baume-and-mercier-clifton-baumatic-cosc-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic COSC","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2018-09-13T14:01:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2018-09-11T11:22:25.473-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:03:27.851-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>An excellent everyday watch at an everyman price.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106667204001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":86416,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Richemont Group as a whole has embraced innovation in materials science in watchmaking on a lot of levels, but one area in which it has – until recently – remained very conventional is in the key regulating elements of the mechanical watch. These are the balance spring, lever, and escape wheel. The Swatch Group, as well as other brands such as Ulysse Nardin (an early pioneer in the use of silicon components) have enthusiastically embraced silicon escapements and balance springs for their ability to sidestep some of the classic problems of achieving rate stability: lubrication and magnetism.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A silicon balance and escape wheel can run without oiling, and thus will not experience the rate variations caused by age-related changes in oil viscosity. A silicon balance spring is completely unaffected by magnetism, which can over time cause the temperature compensation properties of standard Nivarox-type balance springs to change; of course, a strong enough magnetic field will magnetize a standard metal balance spring outright, causing the watch to suddenly begin to run wildly fast on its rate, or even stop completely.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["3a182813-2445-4337-a660-f4b98642d4d8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are other ways than silicon to get around these problems – Rolex, for instance, uses an amagnetic niobium alloy balance spring in its Parachrom balances – but on the whole, the pursuit of technical improvements in escapements has, in the last 20 or so years, revolved around silicon, and today silicon manufacturing technology in watchmaking has progressed to the point that millions of watches with such components come on the market each year, from companies as diverse as Tissot, Omega, and Patek Philippe.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["1f027301-6c5b-4e4f-ab4c-b50c3e760305"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is one of the major reasons that the launch of silicon components in watches by Baume & Mercier aroused so much interest amongst horological gearheads – the use of such components by Richemont Group brands, especially those with a strong foundation in technical watchmaking, like Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, and IWC (who made an Ingenieur with a niobium alloy balance spring capable of resisting magnetic fields of at least 500,000 A/m, in the late 1980s) could potentially revolutionize the position of such brands relative to the competition. The other major reason the announcement got as much attention as it did, of course, is that the launch of advanced escapement technology might have been expected at JLC, Panerai, or IWC – but instead, it was launched at Baume & Mercier. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The very first release was the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-baume-and-mercier-clifton-manual-1830-with-the-silicon-twinspir-balance-spring/" target=\"_blank\">Clifton Manual 1830</a>, in 2017 – this was a gold-cased watch with a hand-wound movement and while a fascinating sign of things to come, it was also a fairly expensive timepiece for Baume & Mercier: $14,350 at launch. The Baumatic, however, which was announced in early 2018, was a horse of a different color – a thin, steel, self-winding watch with a five-day power reserve; priced at $2,790 at launch for the COSC-certified chronometer model – a fraction of the cost of the Clifton Manual 1830 – it was immediately appealing as a classically styled Swiss wristwatch with some very interesting technology under the hood.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bfcf522b-bf75-43b4-81ef-25bd447b814a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Though the price of the Baumatic COSC has been tweaked slightly since launch (it now lists for $2,990) the rest of the package remains the same, and retains the same appeal. In its externals, the Baumatic COSC very much gives the impression of a no-nonsense timepiece, oriented towards keeping and telling time with maximum clarity, although there is more to the design of the watch than just the purely pragmatic delivery of information.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["0eca3b11-35f9-46b6-a67a-571d3a1b328c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Take the dial. The elongated triangular markers and extremely finely pointed alpha hands, as well as the neat, crisp minute markers and Arabic numerals at the five minute marks, all contribute to making the time instantly readable and moreover – and just as relevantly from the perspective of an owner who will likely be interested in the accuracy and rate stability of the watch – they make it very easy to set the watch accurately as well.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f3a6e9c0-0aad-4794-9b1f-a14eab9a4109"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The crosshairs on the dial, which divide it into 15-minute quarters, are a subtle aid to legibility as well, and further emphasize that the sense of devotion to duty that you get overall from the Baumatic COSC. During the week I had this watch on the wrist, I never found there to be any issues with readability except of course, under low light conditions. It is perhaps an issue that in a watch clearly intended for everyday wear, that there is no luminous material, but the absence of Super-LumiNova does contribute to the appealingly classical character of the watch. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e5eab9c6-2a7c-4d29-93f2-c267944f90d3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The date window, of course, is a somewhat divisive feature, but I think its absence can really only be plausibly argued for either as a personal aesthetic choice, or in cases where the date seems somewhat functionally superfluous (one thinks of dive watches, for example). It can also be argued against when it's placed improperly, as happens when a movement with a date ring is placed inside a case of significantly larger diameter, which brings the date window too close to the center of the dial. This is not the case in the Baumatic COSC, however. The date window is rectangular, with slightly flattened numerals in the single digits, and has a slightly retro-modern feel that plays against the classicism of the rest of the design very well. It seems, in short, a well integrated part of the overall design rather than a feature that sort of wandered in to the party uninvited. I think there's also a pro-date window argument to be made in the case of a watch meant to be worn on a daily basis – your mileage may vary of course but I personally find it rather useful to have the date available at a glance.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0e11f584-4556-4ef6-9f3e-2556161ea68f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The sense of unostentatious, subtle, but definitely present quality and attention to detail carries over into the case design as well. The Baumatic COSC is a relatively slim watch (40mm x 10.3mm) and the narrow bezel, which reaches nearly to the edge of the case itself, further contributes to one's sense of wearing something very much like a high-grade, mid-20th-century wristwatch. The lugs have a subtle curvature that adds just the smallest grace note of ornateness and helps keep the whole thing from becoming too coldly technical for its own good, and the alternating brushed and polished finishes (brushing on the case flanks, mirror polishing elsewhere) helps to emphasize the case geometry in a pleasantly lyrical fashion.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ee6e2398-7109-45e0-9e80-bb3ac365bba0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Timekeeping performance in this sample model was excellent, and well within COSC specs; it's always nice when a wristwatch chronometer lives up to its chronometer certification. The Baumatic COSC actually exceeded expectations considerably; I set mine on a Monday to the time available on the HODINKEE app, and in daily wear over a six-day period, the watch gained just two seconds per day. Given the optimized-geometry silicon escapement components and silicon balance spring, this is I think in general indicative of the performance you could expect from the watch over the longer term as well.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["1f3ae2a5-ad37-48a0-b315-ba2a3bbe0c24"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>You do have to have the watch serviced from time to time, of course – at some point, though it will take years, the mainspring will lose its oomph and though there are no lubricants on the escapement, there are oils elsewhere in the watch that will need to be renewed. But as you get closer and closer to the time when you must take the watch in for service, you very likely won't see the age-related changes in rate stability and accuracy you would be apt to see with more conventional methods and materials. This is true, of course, of any watch with silicon components (all other things being equal) but it is worth pointing out in terms of Baume & Mercier's ability to offer this added value to its consumers, in an attractively designed and very affordable watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["00f9f9b9-6691-467d-b9e3-cade0196fa56"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Wearing the Baumatic COSC is an exercise in incremental appreciation. Where the model may struggle a bit is that it's overall a rather subtle piece – it doesn't have the immediate wow factor going for it that some other more extroverted watches have and there is nothing in particular about it that knocks your socks off at first glance. This however is not to say that it's not a beautiful and quite appealing timepiece, but merely to observe that like many valuable and potentially long-term relationships, the allure of the Baumatic COSC as a partner is something that tends to reveal itself over time rather than right up front. </p>\n\n<p>I felt the watch, for all its many interesting traits, a little underwhelming at first but as the days went by I started to appreciate its combination of technical excellence and pragmatic but thoughtful design, more and more – it's a watch that lives very much in the details and by the end of the week, I began to find its rather diffident devotion to getting its job done quite emotionally appealing. What one wants in a daily-wear timepiece, after all, is the same steadiness and loyalty that you find in a good dog (if you're a cat person, peace be upon you and perhaps we can agree that dogs are maybe more proverbial for those qualities than cats) and the sense that both of those qualities are present seem in the Baumatic COSC less and less mere technical properties, and more and more part of a kind of personality, as time goes on.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["9866435c-62fa-487d-9115-6df21b9ac173"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>At its sub-$3,000 price the Baumatic COSC does not have a tremendous amount of competition, feature for feature, especially if you are looking for a watch with a more classical orientation. Tudor occurs to me as one obvious alternative in terms of the use of silicon components at a relatively affordable price; its closest competitor to the Baumatic is the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tudor-north-flag-with-tudors-own-in-house-movement/" target=\"_blank\">Tudor North Flag</a>, at $3,550 on a strap, which has a silicon balance spring, balance bridge, and power reserve indication. It is of course a watch with a much sportier feel, very much in line with the tool-watch essence of much of Tudor's offerings and which is so intrinsic to the watch's appeal. For someone with more classical tastes, the Baumatic COSC will be the more appealing alternative (and the Baumatic is less expensive as well). I should note, also, that the Tudor caliber MT5621 does not use silicon for the lever and escape wheel – ultimately the Baumatic COSC and the North Flag are watches that, while inhabiting similar price points, have very different aesthetics. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["01e2790c-9dd2-4c88-b4bb-abfb5ffa175f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>At a much lower price than either is the Tissot Ballade, which can be had for less than $1,000 (the line was the subject of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tissot-ballade-value-proposition/" target=\"_blank\">a Value Proposition story</a> from HODINKEE Managing Editor Stephen Pulvirent) and which has an 80-hour power reserve and silicon balance spring; the Ballade however uses standard materials for the escape wheel and lever. Like the Baumatic COSC, the Ballade is a certified chronometer and as Stephen pointed out, represents fantastic bang for the buck. Having examined both watches, I feel you get noticeably better fit and finish from the Baumatic COSC (and you had better at twice the price of the Ballade); the improvement in these aspects, as well as the impression one has that the Baumatic COSC has a more clearly defined design identity (if the Tissot has a fault it's that it feels a bit generic) will for some clients with a more exacting eye for detail make the extra cost worth it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["6a805587-8f96-4aec-8819-b81a7b20a6e2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Naturally, if you take silicon components out of the picture and you are looking for a precision-oriented daily wear watch, the alternatives are rather broader and in such a circumstance I think the Grand Seiko quartz 9F models are an extremely attractive alternative. SBGX261G, on a bracelet, is a mere $2,200 and it leaves pretty much any other watch at the price in the dust in terms of fit and finish – however, of course, it is a quartz watch, and battery-powered timepieces are, no matter how good, anathema to many watch enthusiasts.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0c2d3452-d5ba-467a-aca5-0e7ccf951b99"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Baume & Mercier is a company whose identity has seemed somewhat in flux in recent years – it has occasionally flirted, maybe ill-advisedly, with high complications, including a tourbillon, a perpetual calendar, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-baume-and-mercier-five-minute-repeater-pocket-watch-and-promesse-jade-timepiece/" target=\"_blank\">even a five-minute repeater.</a> I say ill-advisedly not because any of these were particularly bad watches, but simply because they seem out of character for a company whose stock-in-trade is appealing design, Swiss provenance, and accessible pricing. The Baumatic COSC, however, gives Baume & Mercier something new: real technical and chronometric appeal that sits squarely in the sweet spot of come-one-come-all pricing. Though it seemed a little cold at first, over time it's a watch that really began to show its charm and as a quiet but faithful companion while coping with life's travails (like magnetic fields and temperature variations) it was a most satisfying Week On The Wrist.</p>\n\n<p>For more on the Clifton Baumatic COSC, visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.baume-et-mercier.com/us/en/collections/clifton-baumatic-men/watch-clifton-baumatic-10436-date.html/" target=\"_blank\">Baume & Mercier</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>Visit Hodinkee affiliate Crown & Caliber to shop pre-owned <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.crownandcaliber.com/collections/baume-mercier-watches?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=disclosure-box\%22 target=\"_blank\">Baume & Mercier</a> models.</p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"692c6868-1c90-406f-a122-ef4239565741","container_id":5864,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1536860801483-dxtwb9f0knd-51757d28c4f342de10321555396a44a5/hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2018-09-11T11:22:25.488-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T08:55:01.848-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1536860801483-dxtwb9f0knd-51757d28c4f342de10321555396a44a5/hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/baume-and-mercier-clifton-baumatic-cosc-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic COSC","tags":[]},{"id":5721,"slug":"tudor-black-bay-gmt-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Tudor Black Bay GMT","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2018-08-01T12:59:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2018-07-16T10:31:13.041-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:03:28.155-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>A travel-ready take on the popular Black Bay diver makes for a compelling companion wherever you may roam. </p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106669116001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":461004,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":"TUDORARTICLE","apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Sport watches come in many shapes and sizes. While I may love a good dive watch, or the old-school charm of a racing chronograph, for me, nothing matches the appeal of a solid GMT. A good example is built like a dive watch and wouldn't look out of place anywhere in the world. I think there is something special about GMTs, about their ethos, their simple but powerful functionality, and their ability to ground you in your roots while adapting to wherever it is you want to go in life. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This past March at Baselworld, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tudor-black-bay-gmt-new-video/" target=\"_blank\">Tudor announced the Black Bay GMT</a>, a handsome stainless steel travel watch based on the format established by their Black Bay dive watches, while offering true GMT functionality too. Following the Pepsi-colored bezel established by Tudor's sibling brand Rolex, the Black Bay GMT is a rather new path for Tudor, but one that is recognizable both for its general Black Bay roots and for its aesthetic and functional similarities to one of the all-time great travel watches, the Rolex GMT-Master II.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["6259def8-804f-4039-90da-fc2b602df680"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With a strong value proposition backed by excellent design and a new movement offering true GMT functionality, the Black Bay GMT has the makings of a quintessential sport watch for the avid traveler. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A Little History "},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b51143f9-acbd-4784-8d73-9192e91008d5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Looking at Tudor’s past, the brand has never really produced anything that could be considered a true precursor to the Black Bay GMT. Sure, they’ve produced some GMT watches in their history, and even fitted <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-week-on-the-wrist-the-tudor-heritage-chrono-blue/" target=\"_blank\">the Heritage Chronograph</a> with a smart 12-hour bezel, but the Black Bay GMT is distinct within their product legacy and does not refer back to any specific Tudor reference or model. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["b4afc655-f292-4251-833c-ab1b1cda788b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If we zoom out just a little, we find Tudor’s older brother, Rolex, who do producea very similar watch in the GMT-Master II. Originally launched in 1983 as the reference 16760, the GMT-Master II built upon the travel-ready appeal of the original GMT-Master that Rolex developed for Pan Am pilots in the mid 1950s. For the GMT-Master II, Rolex created the model around a new movement that offered local jumping hours. So when you landed in a new time zone, you could change the local time in either direction by jump-setting the hour hand via the crown. This functionality also included the ability to progress or retract the date (should you fly through midnight), and the whole process could be done without stopping the watch or even disrupting the position of the other hands. If you fly a lot, this functionality is next level. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Since its inception as reference 6542, the GMT-Master has offered a 24-hour bezel in a split blue/red color scheme that enthusiasts call a \"Pepsi\" bezel. Other colors have been offered, including red/black which is called a \"Coke\" bezel. The split colors help to delineate day/night in the second time zone, and the color scheme has become a one of the most noteworthy visual design cues of the GMT-Master and GMT-Master II. While there was a brief pause while Rolex developed the ability to produce a red/blue Cerachrom bezel (their application of a ceramic bezel insert), the Pepsi look returned to the line up at Baselworld 2014 with <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/new-rolex-gmt-master-ii-white-gold-pepsi-cerachrom-bezel/" target=\"_blank\">the white gold reference 116719</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1482b5cc-9b3d-4515-883d-a68bc106ac9f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Earlier this year, while entirely sharing the stage with the not-dissimilar Black Bay GMT, Rolex released a steel version of the Pepsi GMT-Master II in the reference 126710BLRO. With that blue/red bezel on a full steel case and jubilee bracelet, Rolex established the new steel Pepsi that had been missing from the market since the brand discontinued the previous generation 16710 around 2007. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b9a107b4-427d-428f-8922-77b0aaf3328c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While I know it’s strange to highlight the history of one watch to contextualize another, the decision to design the Black Bay GMT with not only the same functionality (which is awesome) but also a direct aesthetic nod to the GMT-Master series from Rolex is extremely noteworthy. Within both the context of the history of Tudor’s relationship with Rolex (at a product level) and the more recent development of their distinctly non-Rolex Black Bay line, the Black Bay GMT is a watch that I believe few, if anyone, expected. Furthermore, I believe it's existence is nothing short of a clear vote of confidence from Rolex that there is an undeniable play that exists downmarket from the Submariner and, more crucially, the GMT-Master II. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"GMT Abilities"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["3322a181-8356-4d37-bb1b-b09db5e91c32"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As much as the aesthetics are a focusing point for the discussion surrounding this watch (and we’ll get there), I believe that the functionality is also a huge aspect to consider, not only in terms of the Black Bay GMT’s proximity to a GMT-Master II but also in its relationship to the current GMT watch market more generally.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Speaking rather broadly, modern GMT watches are generally divided into two categories: Independent 24 Hour and Local Jumping Hour. The division speaks to the underlying realities of movement production, as the Independent 24 Hour GMT market is almost entirely owned by ETA and their ubiquitous 2893-2 movement (there are also derivations of Sellita movements, but the end realities are the same), which uses an independently set 24-hour hand which tracks a timezone of your choosing via a 24 hour scale or bezel. I call these “Caller GMTs” as they are great for tracking other time zones from home, but as all of the hands function together when changing the main time display, this layout is not all that adept at quickly changing to a new time zone when actively traveling. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d7e085f8-0997-4552-b8a7-4a7f51cd7b96"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The other option, Local Jumping Hour, is more complicated but offers more flexibility for actual travel. Along with a 24-hour hand, watches that offer a Local Jumping Hour GMT functionality have the ability to jump the main (local) hour hand in one-hour increments in either direction to update to a new time zone. If the ebb or flow of zones passes midnight, then the date updates as well. This methodology allows you to preserve both the general timekeeping (the movement does not stop when jumping the hour hand), and whatever time zone was being managed by the 24-hour hand. For this reason, I call this methodology a “Flyer GMT.” If you’re changing time zones, it’s practical and easy. And, once you get a handle on the 24-hour bezel offered by watches like the Black Bay GMT, you've hit that next level. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"<p>This style of GMT display has lasted the test of time and offers enough flexibility to suit a wide range of uses, especially when traveling.</p>","source":""},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The issue here is that ETA, or any other third party movement manufacturer (to my knowledge), does not make a Local Jumping Hour movement. So if you want to make a watch like the Black Bay GMT, you have to either extensively modify an existing caliber (like Omega did with the wonderful, but long since discontinued, caliber 1128 that was seen in some great past-gen Seamasters like the 2234.50 and the mega cool 2538.20 “Great White”), or just make it yourself. Tudor opted for the latter with their new MT5652 in-house movement and made the Black Bay GMT a legit travel watch with functionality identical to that of the GMT-Master II. Are we all doing the same math here? </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e5fc663f-e28c-497f-9319-3aa0478bb305"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For those who haven’t had the pleasure of testing a great deal of GMT watches, let me explain the functionality as it’s actually used. With the crown unscrewed, you can isolate the local time display with the first position. Jumping in one-hour increments to update to the local time and bring the date with you, if required. To actually set the Black Bay GMT, pull the crown to the second position and you can update all of the hands at once. Using the bezel to set the GMT hand to your desired reference time zone, then set the minutes and click back to position one (on the crown) to correct for the local time. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["64cd7d12-4e36-4a17-9ee2-d6333b5e371b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now, to show a second time zone, rotate the bezel to reflect the offset of your local time vs. the 24-hour hand, in this case, if I want to see the time in NYC it would be -4 hours, or eight clicks clockwise, placing “20” at the top position of 12 o'clock. You can now quickly read the time in New York off of the bezel (see the included video for a complete demonstration). Additionally, with some simple math, you get a third time zone by converting the GMT hand to its 24 display against the main hour markers on the dial. This style of GMT display has lasted the test of time and offers enough flexibility to suit a wide range of uses, especially when traveling. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Black Bay GMT"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["f9d4ca35-8047-4906-9342-2b9d287d2589"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Thankfully, aside from the GMT functionality, the Black Bay GMT is just another Tudor Black Bay. The case is made of stainless steel with mixed brushed and polished finishing and measures some 41mm wide, about 15mm thick, and some 50mm lug to lug. The sizing manages to thread the needle between big and small, with a generally well-loved case width but a bit more thickness than would be preferable. In fairness, the 15mm thickness is to the top of the exposed sapphire crystal, and the case/bezel edge is a bit thinner. On my wrist I noticed the tall case edge, but not the full thickness to the top of the crystal, essentially splitting the difference in the metal. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The case shape has that chunky quality to it but makes use of polished flanks and a polished lug facet to keep things from feeling too visually heavy. The combination of a large screw down crown and a wide-set bezel edge makes for excellent control over the two main touch points. Indeed, with the big crown, I could actually update the local time display without taking the Black Bay GMT off my wrist. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["31d4ac9b-a89c-45ef-8d47-8c296345d994"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The case is nicely finished but retains a certain toolish charm that preserves the go-anywhere-do-anything intent of a good GMT. Furthermore, the Black Bay GMT retains the 200M water resistance of its dive watch siblings, so whether its a dip in a hotel pool or a quick dive during a long layover, the Black Bay GMT can stay on wrist without a second thought. Having dived with both a Black Bay (an earlier ETA model) and the brand’s more specific dive watch, the Pelagos, I can say that few watches feel more at home in the water than Tudor divers.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["0e198465-40f0-4485-b4d2-5bc615f27dca","b29eebbd-48ce-4003-b289-0b75f9c90f66"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["48040c11-680f-414f-861a-9a6d5866e09d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The bi-directional 24-hour bezel may be spiritually similar to the GMT-Master, but in details it is quite different. Its aluminum bezel lacks the brightness of color seen in the 16710 and is entirely different from the heavily saturated colors of Rolex’s current red/blue Cerachrom bezel. Instead, the Black Bay GMT opts for a subtle combo of a desaturated deep navy blue and a sort of reddish-burgundy, both colors that are known quantities within the Black Bay spectrum. Matte in finish, I think the choice to go with an aluminum insert (vs ceramic) is nothing short of excellent. Not only does it make for a much less shiny watch, it also better matches the toolish vibe of the overall package and will undoubtedly age with more character than anything made of ceramic (I love a scratched-up bezel). You are of course welcome to disagree, but I really appreciate the subtlety of the color choice, the matte appearance, and the ability to add my own patina over the course of my travels. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a4831ef7-1de0-4491-8a2d-42abbddffdbf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In usual Black Bay fashion, the GMT’s dial is a matte black, with large applied markers, a legible and Snowflake-heavy handset (including that long red GMT hand), and a balanced use of text. There is a nicely implemented and simple date window at three which uses black text on a white background for maximum legibility. A GMT watch needs a date display, and I think three o’clock is a nicely balanced choice and I’m glad that Tudor opted to skip the cyclops. With ample lume and strong general legibility, the Black Bay GMT dial is handsome, well balanced, and nicely detailed with white metal surrounds for the hands and markers. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While I figure this is relatively clear in the above text, I really like the look of the Black Bay GMT. I like that it’s less shiny than a modern GMT-Master II, and I like that it preserves much of the appeal of the original Black Bay design language. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["17f398fe-2a08-480d-874e-d18bc8aaf074"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The MT5652 is part of Tudor's family of full-size movements and the GMT functionality is integrated rather than modular, making it possible for the Black Bay GMT to be as thick as a standard Black Bay diver. COSC certified and offering a power reserve of 70 hours, the MT5652 ticks at 4Hz and offers a silicon balance spring along with bi-directional winding. With 27 jewels and a width of 31.8mm, the MT5652 offers a huge value to the market at this price point. Not only are the options are rare at this price point for a legit in-house movement, but Tudor is offering the Black Bay GMT with a qualified but seldom replicated GMT functionality. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Bracelet And Straps"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["07b64c4c-90b7-44f4-8285-a73adfd79d0f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So, like other Black Bays, the GMT is offered on three available mounts, the solid steel rivet bracelet seen here, a “Terra Di Siena” brown leather strap, or one of Tudor’s excellent fabric straps in black with a red stripe. While my focus is on the bracelet as that is what I had for review, the watch comes with your choice of one of the three at the time of purchase. I tried the leather at Baselworld, and it’s soft and comfy but the deployant-style buckle adds some bulk and is not a great fit for my boney wrist. In contrast, I have worn a standard Black Bay extensively on the fabric and it’s an excellent choice. If you want to save a few bucks (or don't see yourself ever wearing the bracelet), the fabric would be a solid option. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["16ec9863-25fa-4106-a56e-2bd7e2e11acc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The bracelet is very nicely made, with solid end links, no wiggle, and a tiny edge detail on each link, which many may find love or hate. I am not really a fan of bracelets in general, especially on sport watches that err on the heavier side. That said, the Black Bay bracelet is very nicely made, has a solid and simple clasp with three micro adjust points, and while I found it heavy to wear for a week, consider my bias towards putting NATOs or leather on all of my watches. Where I think Tudor could really crush everyone else in the game is by fitting their steel bracelets with the trick auto-expanding clasp found on the titanium Pelagos bracelet (or a version therein). It’s as good a clasp as I’ve ever experienced and I’d love to see it ported to more watches. If you’re just trying to pick between the three then I think the move, if available at your AD, would be to get it on the bracelet and then just put the Black Bay GMT on all sorts of straps – don't forget that a little grey NATO never hurts. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["1f7e9c53-111b-49d6-8841-accef69ba9db"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Black Bay GMT wears almost like any other Black Bay. It’s slightly chunky (in a good way), with tall polished flanks and a squarish profile that wears really well. When I say slightly, I’m eluding to one small change to the case shape that Tudor appears to have debuted with the Black Bay GMT. The change is that of a bevel on the underside of the case that removes the hard edge where the case meets your wrist (see below). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["82421e7a-4171-4594-b58a-1466956756b8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I’ve looked at both ETA and the later MT-based examples of the Black Bay, and the GMT is the only model I’ve found with this ergonomic update. I specifically recall the case edge being fairly sharp on the ETA Black Bay I reviewed several years ago, so I think this is an excellent tweak to the case shape and it undoubtedly makes the Black Bay GMT easier to wear. As a side note, the new Black Bay Fifty-Eight does not have this bevel either, so it really does seem to be a GMT exclusive (for now).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4c9cce1c-576d-418b-9a2a-96ad17bd7b94"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["15f9c825-600d-4c7a-b920-55e7d434ae19","aae4d5b7-b87e-4e06-b921-93ac5dd8a11e"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Case edges aside, as I’ve mentioned, I found the Black Bay GMT on its bracelet to be a bit heavy, but I definitely attribute that to my general attitude towards bracelets. If you like a sport watch on a bracelet, the Black Bay GMT won’t feel especially heavy on your wrist. Comfort is good and with a few micro positions in the clasp, it was no issue to get a proper fit. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Wrist presence is very similar to any other Black Bay, with lots of legibility, good lume, and a bezel you just want to play with. I really liked the Black Bay GMT on wrist and given that the Black Bay diver is an entirely known quantity at this point, many of you will already have a feel for how it wears. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["80b6678c-575e-456f-9936-61352915d38b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While most of the included images are from a trip to San Francisco and Los Angeles (in which I didn't change timezones from my home in Vancouver), I was able to use the Black Bay GMT's time zone jumping functionality on a previous trip. If, like me, you travel a lot, the functionality is so handy you get kinda spoiled by it. My day-to-day travel watch is a Rolex Explorer II (16570) and the Black Bay GMT offers the same base functionality but takes it a step further with the 24-hour bezel. When the plane lands, you just unscrew the crown, jump back or forwards to match the new zone, and join the herd in getting off the plane. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As much as I like the philosophy of a travel watch like the Black Bay GMT, I might like the general casual-but-flexible style of the watch even more. Not unlike the GMT-Master II, there is a certain laissez-faire attitude to the Black Bay GMT. While definitely not dressy, if you're hopping over to London for a meeting and then on to Geneva that evening, the Black Bay GMT won't be out of place or seem inappropriate on your wrist. With its nicely muted colors, boyish go-anywhere charm, and the ability to suit a wide range of straps, the Black Bay GMT is more sport coat than tailored suit, and that fits me just fine. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["57e615ce-975a-4e0f-a810-47b7bf20ec8b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you've read this far, you've likely been doing some of the mental math of a watch nerd along the way, and yes, the Black Bay GMT offers a remarkable value for a mechanical watch with its functionality, even disregarding its other qualities. Direct competition is almost entirely non-existent. In an attempt to elaborate, there are two major considerations here: feature set and price. For feature set, we’ve established a GMT function with jumping local hour and coordinated date along with a 24-hour rotating bezel. For price, this watch sits at $3,900 as you see it here. Honestly, good luck competing with that.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Let's start with watches that offer the same feature set at a <i>loosely</i> similar price point. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["4269e942-0f1f-4050-85ba-bb66fafc7d89"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>The Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 126710 BLRO</strong></p>\n\n<p>While the discontinued (and appreciating) reference 16710 is likely a stronger comparison, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-gmt-master-ii-126710-blro-pepsi-jubilee-hands-on/" target=\"_blank\">the new steel GMT-Master II</a> that was announced at Baselworld this year is definitely a more functional comparison. The Rolex is so beautifully made, has a ceramic bezel, and says Rolex on the dial. While certainly (and deservedly) the iconic model in the GMT space, it's also well over double the price and very hard to come by. That said, the Rolex offers identical functionality to that of the Tudor and the general conversation around the Black Bay GMT is one that offers the 126710 as comparison, which is noteworthy in and of itself. </p>\n\n<p><i>$9,250; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rolex.com/watches/gmt-master-ii/m126710blro-0001.html/" target=\"\"><u><i>rolex.com</i></u></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["21060bae-9a7e-4479-bdd7-8cdbc01a351f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M GMT</strong></p>\n\n<p>The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m GMT is an interesting watch that offers an appealing package for those who essentially want a larger overall size or dig the Omega diver aesthetic. 43.5mm wide and rather thick at ~17mm, the Planet Ocean GMT has the same core functionality (via a very advanced and tech-forward co-axial chronometer movement) and benefits from <i>not </i>looking at all like a GMT-Master. That being said, I figure it loses to the Black Bay GMT based on the delta in price (exactly 2x) and the much more accessible sizing of the Black Bay format.</p>\n\n<p>$7,800; <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watch-omega-seamaster-planet-ocean-600m-omega-co-axial-gmt-43-5-mm-23230442201001/" target=\"_blank\">omegawatches.com</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Moving on, let's consider a few options at a (loosely) similar price point and see what we get in terms of function.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["2eba023e-b58d-42b1-a68a-f91ba501123e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Bremont MB-III GMT</strong></p>\n\n<p>Bremont makes several solid GMT watches, but as I implied much earlier in this review, none have local jumping because they use ETA 2893-2 movements. The purchasing decision comes down to whether or not you need/want the true GMT functionality. If you’re mostly interfacing with other time zones for conference calls or response expectations, an Independent 24 hour GMT might be the way to go. That said, the Bremont, while more complex in its case and bezel construction, is also 30% more money ($5,995) than the Black Bay GMT, and the Tudor is also a bit smaller (41mm vs 43mm), while offering an in-house movement with a longer power reserve.</p>\n\n<p><i>$5,995; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.bremont.com/watch/mbiii/17965/" target=\"_blank\"><i>bremont.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["2b64f3b1-d3c0-4914-853a-02c92eacf180"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>TAG Heuer Aquaracer Calibre 7 GMT</strong></p>\n\n<p>Also using the same ETA 2893-2 functionality as the Bremont, this 43mm Tag Heuer Aquaracer offers a Pepsi-style bezel in red and blue and, at $2,700, it is a good bit less expensive than the Black Bay GMT. With a date at three, 300m water resistance, and a full steel bracelet, while it doesn't match the same functionality for travel that is offered by the Tudor, this Aquaracer GMT is a good looking, if a bit large, option for an independent 24-hour GMT. While less expensive than the above Bremont above, this might be a \"go big, or go home\" play where you either get a true GMT with a jumping local hour hand or find a better overall value in the ETA-based game (where examples exist in the sub-$1,000 range). </p>\n\n<p><i>$2,700; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.tagheuer.com/en-us/watches/aquaracer-calibre-7-gmt-automatic-watch-43-mm-way201f-ba0927/" target=\"_blank\"><i>tagheuer.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you're in the market for this sort of GMT, just get in line for the forthcoming Halios Seaforth GMT, it's cheaper than most, better looking, great on wrist, and it offers an identical functionality to the the Bremont and the TAG. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While I may have rambled a bit here, I figure by now you're starting to see my point. GMTs come in a nearly endless array of sizes, prices, and layouts, but if you want what is arguably the most proven format (local jumping hour), there aren't exactly a ton of options and Tudor has kinda dropped a bomb on anything under $7,000. Actually, you could argue that aside from the allure of a Rolex and the pedigree of the GMT-Master II, the Black Bay GMT (which has been dubbed the \"Diet Pepsi\") is the more alluring package for a lot of people.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["41751ae8-615f-404b-b6ca-fac56c3f374d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I picked this watch for a recent Editor Roundup of O<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/one-watch-person-editors-picks-2018/" target=\"_blank\">ne Watch Options</a>, and I stand by it. While I won't deny that the ideal is something like a 16710 (I like the thinner and more elegant case shape), those GMT-Master IIs are both discontinued and quite expensive, costing literal multiples of the retail price of the Black Bay GMT. Is the Black Bay GMT perfect? No, but it is very close. I think it's a touch too thick for my preference, but that took maybe a day for me to forget about. I didn't get the chance to try it on a NATO, but given its similarity in size to a watch like the Seiko SKX007, I think it would be excellent. Also, while I am far from the first to suggest it (don't get it twisted, I see you all on Instagram and in the comments), a Black Bay Fifty-Eight GMT would be BONKERS. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"<p>Though we travel the world over to find the beautiful, we must carry it with us, or we find it not.</p>","source":"Ralph Waldo Emerson"},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I love to travel and I have a job that affords me frequent trips to many far off places. I love the thoughtfulness of the packing, the planning, the details, and the ever evolving collection of items and behaviours that help to make the process less of a burden. I also love watches, so it's of little surprise that over time I have attached myself to GMT watches as the ideal travel companion. I get so pumped when I see a beat-to-hell GMT on someone's wrist in a lounge or as I walk down the tight confines to my seat in a plane. Watches like these don't have to be babied, they're along for the ride and each scar is a totem to a life spent expanding your perspective. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3b597008-728f-4561-9886-7848e61d7650"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>All said, the Black Bay GMT is a solid sport watch and an excellent travel watch. Within the greater context of its existence, I think it's an interesting nod of approval from Rolex as they produced and launched a vastly similar watch in this year's GMT-Master II. The scenario becomes all the more considerable if you factor for Tudor's methodology over the past few years in producing two distinct lines of dive watches, the Black Bay and the Pelagos, both separate from the Submariner. With the Black Bay GMT, I feel like the lines are more blurred, that Tudor has accessed and implemented upon one of Rolex's best overall formats. I think that the Black Bay GMT represents a considerable vote of confidence on the part of Rolex while also highlighting the watch industry's need to offer qualified value at a more accessible price point. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Ralph Waldo Emerson said, \"Though we travel the world over to find the beautiful, we must carry it with us, or we find it not,\" and while he was speaking of travel at large, I think the same can be applied to a good travel watch as we carry it with us. Your shoes, your luggage, your clothes, your phone, all those bits that you you take with you will eventually wear out. But a watch like the Tudor Black Bay GMT could easily keep pace with a lifetime of travel and wondrous adventure. Am I perhaps being a bit too romantic about a watch that can simply show other timezones? Yes, entirely. But within that admission, what a GMT simplifies is something that I find deeply rewarding, endlessly fun, and undeniably romantic. It's travel, and from adventure, to misadventure, and the general calamity of exploring all that the world offers, a solid GMT is without question the tool for the job. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>Visit Hodinkee affiliate Crown & Caliber to shop pre-owned <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.crownandcaliber.com/collections/tudor-watches?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=disclosure-box\%22 target=\"_blank\">Tudor</a> models</p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"6af612c1-5884-44c4-992f-47009065cb99","container_id":5721,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1533055200653-o4hdhabef3r-2492098fc616a7dee0f853078d1ba715/20017469_copy_2.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2018-07-16T10:31:13.406-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T08:55:16.438-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1533055200653-o4hdhabef3r-2492098fc616a7dee0f853078d1ba715/20017469_copy_2.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tudor-black-bay-gmt-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Tudor Black Bay GMT","tags":[]},{"id":5699,"slug":"bulgari-octo-finissimo-minute-repeater-carbon-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2018-07-10T11:03:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2018-07-06T13:16:05.186-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:03:28.454-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>Brave new world, meet brave new watch.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106670304001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":41056,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A Week On The Wrist gives us a chance to find out what it's like to actually live with a watch, albeit for a limited time. Sometimes it's a watch that's the equivalent of a daily driver, and working with it gives us a chance to see how it holds up under real world conditions in terms of legibility, general aesthetic appeal, accuracy, and the like. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["c877ca12-10b4-401e-8475-5a547f43c3c0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Sometimes, however, we get a watch in to test drive which puts us in the position of a car journalist being thrown the keys for a Bugatti Chiron for the weekend, like this one: the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon, a $160,000 superwatch that not only turns quite a few conventions about luxury watchmaking upside down, but also flies in the face of conventional wisdom about what high end watchmaking from Bulgari is all about as well. This is the first time we've done A Week On The Wrist with any minute repeater – we've covered a rattrapante, and a perpetual calendar, but never a repeater, and this is one of the most unusual minute repeaters anyone's making right now.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A Record-Breaking Revolution"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["990f0645-02c9-422f-91da-fc98e5871053"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>You can't talk about the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon without talking about its record-shattering slimness – the caliber BVL 362 is just 3.12mm thick (and 28.50mm in diameter) making it not only the thinnest minute repeater movement in current production by a considerable margin, but also arguably the thinnest wristwatch repeater movement anyone's ever made, period. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The closest competition in modern wristwatch production is the 3.90mm thick Vacheron Constantin caliber 1731, which is 3.90mm thick and can be found in the The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731. When debuted in 2013 it was the world's thinnest repeater movement. (\"Considerable margin\" is perhaps a little hyperbolic considering the difference between BVL 362 and the Vacheron 1731 is all of 0.78mm, but as that's exactly one fourth of the total thickness of BVL 362, maybe it's justifiable hyperbole.)</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c549b19f-14b2-4aa0-a511-24f12eddca0b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Making ultra-thin repeater movements is about the most specialized and exacting form of traditional watchmaking I can think of. Generally speaking, thinness is not really consistent with either mechanical robustness or good sound quality – in the first instance, the reduction in rigidity of parts, and the tightness of clearances significantly increase the risk of failure and in the second, miniaturization of the gongs and hammers means you've got a mechanism inherently less capable of transferring energy from the movement to the surrounding air. That Bulgari holds the current world record for ultra thin repeaters, past or present (with the possible exception of Vacheron's reference 4261 from the 1940s, which used a movement just 3.10mm thick, reportedly) is commendable to put it mildly, but it's also surprising to the point of seeming at first blush, improbable – if it were the year 2000, nobody in their right mind would have considered it even a remote possibility.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["357e4dd4-0ed2-46ea-9be3-83ea6bae0381"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["aaf76d87-1e5f-4a2b-b13a-464b0682d0c2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I mention the year 2000 specifically, because that is the year that this improbable record actual became possible for Bulgari. That was the year in which Bulgari acquired Gerald Genta from Singapore's The Hour Glass, as part of a $24 million deal that also included Daniel Roth, and a company known as Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie, SA. It's never been specifically stated by Bulgari, but a reasonable hypothesis is that the movement was acquired at the same time – Gerald Genta as an independent company had produced some exceedingly complex watches, including a 25th anniversary unique piece from 1994: a grande and petite sonnerie, with Westminster chimes, and minute repeater with jump retrograde hours, so the technical expertise was certainly there. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3e7a46af-536e-43d9-9b19-4008ede7b54e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1582e6a6-520f-44fd-b816-d0dde1964a6c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Genta himself was not a watchmaker or movement designer, of course, which leaves open the question of who the movement designer actually was, but the caliber is certainly testimony to a most accomplished constructor. I have wondered if the BVL 362 was to some extent reverse engineered from the caliber in the Vacheron 4261, but while there are the general family similarities between the two movements that you would expect from classically designed, ultra thin hand-wound repeater movements, there are significant differences as well. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Whatever the actual pedigree of the movement, it remains an extraordinary piece of traditional watchmaking – one which Bulgari has very much made its own, in pairing it with an extremely unusual case.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Carbon Thin Ply Case"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["b7f8df8c-c1bc-4fb5-b070-dce2bdd009ec"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The case is made of a material Bulgari calls Carbon Thin Ply, or CTP for short. This is basically a thermosetting epoxy resin, reinforced with carbon fiber. It's extremely light and also quite tough, providing a stiff, highly efficient resonating chamber for the repeater. To best take advantage of the resonating properties of the material, the foot of the gongs is not attached to the movement, which is the usual practice – instead, it's attached directly to the case. Carbon fiber, like titanium, is from a sound dynamics standpoint an interesting material to use in a repeater, but it's even rarer to find it used in repeater construction than titanium. The only other minute repeater using a complete carbon fiber case I'm aware of is the Hublot Classic Fusion Tourbillon Cathedral Minute Repeater Carbon, which aside from some materials similarity, is a watch that is in terms of style and philosophy, diametrically opposed to the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["48435c3a-1611-47f0-9595-eb1515b7eb68"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>From an engineering standpoint, the material is also an excellent choice for an ultra thin watch. The addition of carbon fiber gives good distribution of mechanical stresses, and the ability of the material to resist deforming is very helpful in being able to successfully construct such a thin watch. However, it's not the primary reason that Bulgari chose to make a version of this watch in CTP (when the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater was launched, it was in a titanium case of exactly the same dimensions as the CTP version – 40mm x 6.25mm). Rather, the choice of case material was primarily a design decision.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now, the movement in the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon is an exercise in absolutely classic watchmaking. While some of modern watchmaking's most extreme exercises in making record-breaking flat movements involve highly unusual materials and construction (the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/piaget-altiplano-ultimate-concept-watch-hands-on/" target=\"_blank\">Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Watch</a> is an excellent case in point) caliber BVL 362 does not. For most fine watchmaking brands that deal in this sort of thing, placing such a classically informed movement in anything other than a very traditional case would be unthinkable and given the commitment to traditional designs and methods that usually travels along with this type of movement, it would be tantamount to cultural heresy. Perhaps it makes sense, then, that it took a relative newcomer to high end mechanical horology like Bulgari, to take the risky but also daring and imaginative step of pairing the movement with a very modern composite material that seems to have more to do with engineering than with aesthetics.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["baf29f0d-7d4e-4d21-bcbb-175d42356e1e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Or does it? One of the fundamental tenets of modernist design and architecture, from the Art Deco period right down to the present, has to do with celebrating the inherent qualities of materials <i>per se, </i>rather than relying primarily on the transformation or decoration of those materials. We're accustomed to this sort of thing in materials like glass, concrete, and stainless steel in architecture; in watch design, the benchmark for the elevation and celebration of an industrial material is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, which for all that it's entertaining in precious metals, seems most at home, and most itself, in stainless steel. Carbon fiber-based materials remain challenging, however – again, Audemars Piguet has used forged carbon cases to interesting effect, as have some other brands. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["3809a47c-48dc-46e0-94b7-703d5e4e5445"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Much more often, however, carbon fiber composites are instant clichés – rather anxiously, and awkwardly, wedded to pre-existing, and more or less traditional designs as a way of making those designs seem more <i>au courant, </i>more sporty. The results are generally forgettable and best, and impossible to un-see at worst. The Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon, on the other hand, actually celebrates the roughhewn qualities of CTP – a poke in the eye of standard ideas of luxury, yes, but one which has roots in the classic Modernist belief that materials speak with the greatest conviction and clarity when they are allowed to speak for themselves.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b27914f2-52a6-4ff9-b1d8-481da476ef47"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The case is an exercise in brusque angularity – up close, it looks like a piece of Brutalist architecture, or like one of the menacing pyramids of the Tyrell Corporation in the original 1982 <i>Blade Runner. </i>At the same time, while it suggests a great deal, it avoids looking as if it's trying to illustrate something – like the dial for the Grand Seiko Snowflake Spring Drive, it's not a literal representation of anything, which makes the viewer an active participant in the design, rather than a passive recipient. Another object the case suggests is the fuselage of the first operation stealth aircraft: the F-117 Nighthawk, which became operational in 1983 and which was as much a violation of all the traditional tenets of aircraft design as the Minute Repeater Carbon is of wristwatch minute repeater design.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Sound And Vision"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f9a69960-f389-45fe-9ed5-7d314e5e4866"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Of course, a minute repeater is a chiming complication, and chiming complications, unlike every other kind of watch, appeal to more than just the sense of sight. They're traditionally judged according to specific criteria. One of these is volume – a repeater that is not loud enough to be heard over low to moderate ambient noise, has given up something in functionality, however else it might appeal as a piece of high craftsmanship or as a piece of design. A major pitfall for modern watch brands is forgetting that while a watch may not be something one needs (especially, I suppose, one does not need a minute repeater) it remains true that abdicating one's responsibility as a watchmaker, to create a watch with functional integrity, is to create something disappointing. This has little or nothing to do with whether or not one actually needs that functionality, but we regard it as essential that, for instance, you could dive with a dive watch, because otherwise what one has is not a watch, but rather, an illustration of a watch, which ultimately becomes as dissatisfying and disappointing to own as if it were in fact, merely an illustration.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5f2be076-c84f-423d-9aec-d1b344eadfc4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>On this score, the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon does extremely well. Not only is it clearly audible in even a moderately noisy environment, it's also very pleasing in terms of tone. The gold standard for repeaters is, in fact, gold – it is generally conceded that steel gongs resonating inside a rose gold case offer the best combination of audibility, clarity, and quality of tone. I think however that one can be perhaps a bit more broad-minded on the subject – after all, you don't feel disappointed in Japanese sake because it doesn't have the operatic histrionics of a big Bordeaux; you meet it on its own terms.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I think it is certainly possible to appreciate the sound of the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon in the same way. No, it does not have the polychromatic warmth of rose gold, but it does have a different sort of appeal – a penetrating, crystalline clarity that expresses, in its coolly persistent tone, the character of the watch with great precision. One cannot ask more of a repeater than that the sound harmonizes, so to speak, with the design and to find that the tone of the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon is such a wonderful aural expression of the watch's juxtaposition of traditional and cutting edge, is an enormous pleasure.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A Week On The Wrist With A Minute Repeater"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["055011d0-57fd-4b39-92ce-b8f8d0695bb7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I've never worn a minute repeater for longer than, I would say, perhaps an hour or two around the office when we've had one in for photography. While most brands are more than happy to loan reviewers samples of chronographs, diver's watches, everyday beaters and the like, minute repeaters are simply too expensive, complex, rare, and accident prone to be easy to come by, and the fact that they can be so time consuming to produce (production time is often measured in weeks or months) means that repeaters which are completed are generally spoken for already, or at the very least are expected to arrive at the boutique in absolutely pristine condition.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a96470c0-33a1-47ea-afbf-feedb413b811"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In my previous experiences with repeaters, I've done what I think most watch lovers would do when entrusted with a six-figure high complication that, company insurance be damned, you badly do not want to mar in the slightest just as a point of professional pride: walked around as if I had a Ming porcelain strapped to my wrist. You can't help but be painfully aware of the elevated nature of what you're wearing and that cuts a bit into the extent to which you can enjoy the experience, rather than just appreciate it. This is not to say that ownership is necessary to appreciation – it's not – but anxiety is a potent anaphrodisiac, and one is almost glad to see the watch go back.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["22728554-1ea8-40e3-b059-5e9337a60e25"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This may be a $160,000 watch but it wears like a $160 watch – and I mean that as a compliment. Probably someone from Bulgari reading that sentence will feel their hackles rise but the thing about an inexpensive watch, is that it is possible to enjoy it without any of the usual cognitive and conceptual miasma of quote fine unquote watchmaking intruding. Fine dining nowadays, for all that the informal fine dining destination restaurant is becoming its own kind of cliché, has realized that pomp and circumstance do not necessarily make for a pleasurable meal, and just so, the palpable burden of centuries of tradition radiating from the classic implementations of the minute repeater can make wearing one enough of a chore to drain the joy out of the experience.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>First of all, this is an extremely comfortable watch to wear. Some of that has to do with the incredible light weight of the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon overall – between the CTP case and the titanium bracelet, it seems to float on the wrist with no more sense of mass than a Swatch Skin; this is very disorienting at first, and then positively liberating. The narrowness of the bracelet links means that the watch molds itself to your wrist very naturally and as with a Leica M3 camera, or a bespoke shotgun from Purdey, or your favorite set of golf clubs, it becomes an extension of your body, rather than a foreign object affixed to it. (This is not just a matter of mass; even relatively small watches can be persistently bothersome to wear if the weight distribution is off, or the lug design prevents the strap or bracelet from doing its job of being both secure and comfortable.) This sense of airy freedom, in combination with the matte black geometry of the case, and incredible thinness of both the case and the bracelet, means that you move about your day with a sense of ease very foreign to the usual experience of sporting a high complication. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["50693abf-b219-45cf-a559-684535a7c7c8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's also a damned fun watch to show to other watch enthusiasts. The unusual case material and design, the record-breaking dimensions, and the completely classic watchmaking in the movement make it a very visually and sonically stimulating timepiece, and a fantastic conversation piece as well. Unless your interlocutor is one of the lucky, and relatively few, people who've had a chance to see an Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon in the ... well, in the carbon, they will never, even if they have much experience of repeaters, seen anything like it before, and it challenges conventional expectations enough to be both provocative, and fascinating.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["0a7a0cae-8efe-46de-a5a2-ff938fab8f03"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon, Bulgari has done something no one else has quite managed to do before. Repeaters in carbon fiber cases are certainly rare enough; this is the only one with such an incredibly flat movement, and it is not, unlike so many carbon fiber-cased watches, using the material in a misplaced bid for machismo, or in an attempt to wring some plausible degree of cool out of a materials and design cliché.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Instead, Bulgari is doing something with this watch that would not be possible or plausible from the older companies more traditionally associated with repeaters. A classic movement like the BVL 362, if it came from Patek, or Vacheron, or Audemars Piguet, would undoubtedly find itself in a very traditionally styled case. Even from Bulgari, the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon is a shocking watch – Bulgari may not have as its stock in trade, the sort of tradition-bound Swiss idioms that confine the Big Three and their ilk to a fairly specific design vocabulary, but it does have its own expected repertoire of forms and approaches: bold, gold, organic forms combined with sharp geometry <i>à la</i> Serpenti, and so on. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9f589c93-7c60-42fb-ac5c-0bd42f7f9223"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But with the Octo Finissimo line, and with the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon in particular, Bulgari has not only broken away from centuries-old conventions with respect to classic complication design. It has broken away from its own established design language as well, and, perhaps most significantly and importantly, abandoned the humorless and sometimes suffocating notion of what is and is not luxury, for the sake of bringing together some very disparate elements and attempting to create an entirely new kind of alchemy, both for themselves and for fine watchmaking as a whole.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What Bulgari has achieved with the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon is something much rarer than luxury watchmaking – they have succeeded in making an <i>interesting </i>watch, and one that slyly subverts everything we usually assume is necessarily true about fine watchmaking. It will not be everyone's cup of tea, but for the genuinely knowledgeable and open minded watch enthusiast – and this is irrespective of whether or not your budget allows you to think of owning one; God knows mine doesn't – the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon is one of the most genuinely original and truly thought provoking watches ever to come down the pike.</p>\n\n<p><i>The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon retails for $160,000 and is a limited edition of just 50 pieces. For more, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.bulgari.com/en-gb/octo/" target=\"_blank\"><i>visit Bulgari online</i></a><i>.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"53d34568-0c23-4262-847b-db1182d2f10e","container_id":5699,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1530896688255-q680zri40wg-f6b404a4dadc4629e05f41f777855f54/hero.jpg","width":2000,"height":1125,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2018-07-06T13:16:05.254-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T08:55:30.333-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1530896688255-q680zri40wg-f6b404a4dadc4629e05f41f777855f54/hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bulgari-octo-finissimo-minute-repeater-carbon-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon","tags":[]},{"id":5634,"slug":"casio-g-shock-gmwb5000-full-metal-gold-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000 Full Metal","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2018-06-14T11:54:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2018-06-11T14:26:43.528-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:03:28.696-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>All. Gold. G-Shock.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106667543001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":215269,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When I first heard about this watch in the midst of Baselworld and all its associated craziness, I kind of didn't believe it. An all-gold, all-metal G-Shock? Why? But then I saw it and I immediately understood exactly why. It all boils down to one word: fun.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's easy to forget in the competitive world of horological one-upmanship that ultimately, in the 21st century, watches are about nothing more than pleasure. We don't need mechanical timekeepers any more than we need sundials, so if you're not going to look down and smile every time you see that thing wrapped around your wrist, then you're doing it very, very wrong. Sure, there's plenty of enjoyment to be derived from reading about different kinds of escapements, lots of joy to be obtained from sharing drinks with other watch collectors as you debate the finer points of German versus Swiss <i>anglage</i>, and, yes, despite how it might sound, there is no small amount of amusement to be wrung out of knowing that in your collection sits rare, valuable pieces that put you in a particular pantheon of enthusiast-collectors. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e807a02d-20d3-4a76-a2a4-fa6cce3579a2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But sometimes it's <i>way</i> simpler than all of that. There are watches that can at once excite the Daniels devotee and the layman who wouldn't know his detent escapement from his Swiss lever. The Casio G-Shock GMWB5000 Full Metal is one such watch and this spring it was the breath of fresh air I needed to get excited about watches all over again.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"What Makes A G-Shock A G-Shock"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d8cc3bd6-be66-4f2e-9f38-ae571b1b64b3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Over the last three and a half decades, G-Shock has become something of a cultural icon. The watches are so well-known that at time they can end up feeling ubiquitous or like commodities, though they're actually an extremely impressive feat of engineering that made a huge impact on the watch world. The entire project was the brainchild of one Kikuo Ibe, an engineer working at Casio who had a mishap with a mechanical watch (you can, and should, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/worlds-rarest-g-shock-kikuo-ibe/" target=\"_blank\">read Jack's story about Ibe and the first G-Shock here</a> to get the full story). The goal was simple: make the most durable and reliable watch on planet Earth.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>To say that Ibe and his colleagues succeeded is an understatement. In 1983, after a few years of development, the DW-5000 was released and the G-Shock was officially born. There were a number of key innovations in its construction, many of which survive in the watches to this day, including the idea of having the timekeeping module essentially suspended inside the outer case with only a few points of contact in order to made the entire case into a giant shock absorber. The watches were 200m water resistant and could withstand falls of up to 10 meters – Ibe even ran a few over with his car as an additional test and they survived just fine.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["22837e92-b3cc-4df0-8185-ebeba12c2be2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Since then, G-Shock has evolved in two major ways: in terms of design and in terms of technology. The Japanese brand has been quick to embrace things like solar power, Bluetooth connectivity, and GPS to make its watches even more functional than they used to be. And there have been many different series of G-Shock watches introduced over the years, including some with analog hands, some with different case shapes, and, of course, some with brightly colored cases and dials. If you want to see a collecting community full of die-hards, just go dig into G-Shock forums. They're no joke and give Rolex and Patek collectors a run for their money.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Full Metal"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["045514f0-ca12-4be3-8db8-9ca93a1ba36a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And that brings us to this watch. Its full name is the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TFG-9 Full Metal, but collectors have luckily been calling it just the \"Full Metal 5000,\" which makes all of our lives a lot easier here. The watch is every bit a modern G-Shock, just with a different case and bracelet treatment, which gives it a distinctive personality. This year marks the 35th anniversary of G-Shock as a brand, and while neither this watch nor its non-gold sibling are explicitly anniversary watches they do have a bit of that special vibe about the. Let's walk through the Full Metal 5000 bit by bit to get a sense of exactly what we're dealing with.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Case"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["70ba247b-6281-4541-af38-59bb1a8daffd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What exactly does Casio mean when they say \"full metal\" here? Each G-Shock has four main exterior components – the case, bezel, caseback, and bracelet – and with this watch they are all rendered in solid stainless steel. This is a first for a G-Shock. Previous models <i>have </i>had metal components before, but there has never before been a model that used steel for all four of these basic building blocks. The result is a watch that has none of the brightly colored plastic that you might typically associate with G-Shock, so you get a similar profile with with a totally different feel. One thing to note for G-Shock nerds is that in between the bezel and main case is a slim layer of special resin that allows the watch to be just as tough as its more flexible/shock-absorbent brethren.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0f228802-ba98-4ad6-b3e2-6bea86cc75bd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["172c695c-2dfb-4f50-b155-52bc9f97fa1b","e3351289-29db-4608-a134-e84d97f57517"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In addition to being made of solid steel, this watch features a gold coating that covers basically every visible surface of this watch other than the caseback, which has a dark color to it instead. The coating is not real gold, but rather an ion plating treatment (IP is a form of PVD, in case you were wondering) in a bright yellow gold color. It might have been trendier to do something in a shade of rose gold, but honestly I love the old-school charm of a really warm yellow gold, and G-Shock nailed the color here. The finish is near mirror-like, and I assumed it would be a total scratch-magnet. However, even after a full week of wearing it around New York City and Los Angeles the watch emerged with almost no visible marks. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In addition to making serious visual impact, this watch is pretty physically hefty too. The case measures 43.2mm vertically, 49.3mm across, and 13mm thick. the domed caseback makes it sit a little high up on the wrist. The weight is just shy of six ounces in total, including the bracelet. It's not at all uncomfortable, and the slightly rectangular form factor does help it look right at home, even on a smallish wrist. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Bracelet"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["35bcd4b4-27dc-4c70-b1ca-1ae581dce89a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A lot of how this watch wears, physically and aesthetically, comes down to the bracelet. Also made entirely of stainless steel and with that same yellow gold color IP coating (remember, this is Full Metal we're talking about, people), the bracelet completes the look. There are little circular indentations in the metal at the edges that mimic those on the head of the watch, continuing that motif all the way around. All of this terminates in a pretty simple folding claps that locks firmly in place and feels secure enough to hold up to the beefy watch. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d988fac1-ef9c-4ce8-9777-5cd182bf400c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The construction though is a little unusual as far as watch bracelets go. It's what I would call a fully integrated bracelet, despite technically being removable, because it fits to the watch with two special end links that essentially act as extensions of the case itself rather than as traditional bracelet links. They do not fully articulate, instead sticking at a particular angle from the side of the case with very little play. Here you can really see what I mean:</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b98b72f3-7b0a-4f55-89c5-28201ee677f8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The end result of this is a watch that's a little less comfortable than it could be. If these links moved, even just a little bit more, I think I'd be able to give this watch a top score in that department. However, with the links fixed like this, I got a watch that hung a bit over my wrist on either side and a bracelet that always felt a little stiffer than I wanted. Otherwsie, the links are well-sized and the flow smoothly around the wrist. I understand that this design allows for the watch to look a certain way on the wrist, I'm not sure the comfort sacrifice is worth it for me personally.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Dial & App"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["48f54f15-d444-4921-967a-1d0c786603d4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is still a 5000 series G-Shock, so it has all the usual functionality. The dial is a special LCD screen called a \"super-twisted nematic\" (STN) LCD, which provides better contrast and viewing angles. By default it shows the time (hours, minutes, seconds), the day of the week, and one additional function (the date in the above photo). Using the buttons around the perimeter of the case you can activate things like alarms, stopwatch functionality, timers, and more. There's also of course an LED backlight available with a single button push, and it pleasantly fades in and out instead of abruptly turning on and off. </p>\n\n<p>Around the perimeter of the LED screen you'll see the familiar \"brick\" pattern, which is more than decoration. It's actually the solar cells that allow the G-Shock to be self-sufficient. A single day in the sun will keep the watch running for months, so pretending like I could have tested the battery life in any meaningful way would be a joke. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["66b613db-13bf-40b9-9a01-522a50f7e3eb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d8494aa7-b413-4bcd-b120-938c38af658f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Most of the timekeeping functions are controlled and regulated by a multi-band radio receiver in the watch, however this model also has Bluetooth connectivity that lets you access additional functions through a mobile app. I honestly didn't find myself using these at all during my test, but if you really want a more advance world time interface for additional alarm options, they're there for you.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["7852a293-7e81-4d76-89b6-3ae67c8f64f0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I'm not typically a \"big gold watch\" kind of guy. If you're a regular HODINKEE reader, you probably know that by now. I'm the sort of person who aggressively seeks out products without logos on them and I spend most of my days wearing small, often old watches made of humble stainless steel. But sometimes everyone needs to loosen up a bit and have a little fun. These are just watches we're talking about, after all, and sometimes a little bling can be good. There will be those who will give this watch another demerit for being quartz, and yet <i>another </i>for being digital. And to those people, I have but one thing to say: chill out, ok? </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["71af2ab3-8994-4658-a2ae-b6edd5d12de5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When I first strapped this watch on, I was immediately struck by the weight. This is some serious hardware we're talking about. The first two days I wore it, I occasionally found myself taking it off just to give my wrist a reprieve. However, after that little spell, I got used to it and was able to make it whole days without any discomfort. If you already wear larger watches, I don't think you'll notice anything out of the ordinary at all. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I mentioned it a little bit above, but I found myself wearing the G-Shock almost as if it was just a time-and-date watch. This isn't unique to this model – I rarely use chronographs either. That said though, the watch performs admirably as such. Even if you're not going to use all the additional bells and whistles (literally), I don't think you get a worse G-Shock experience. It's actually one of the things I like most about G-Shocks in general – they're there to perform for you, not the other way around.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cee67238-d196-43df-91df-6eaf8d7f780c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One thing I did have a hard time adjusting to was how much attention I got while wearing this watch. I caught people checking it out on the Subway, I notice wandering eyes at bars, and I had more than one friend exclaim \"Whoa! What the hell is that!?\" during my few days with the Full Metal. Again, I'm used to flying a little more under the radar than this. Counterintuitively, I don't think twice about wearing a vintage Rolex on the train home, but for some reason I found myself pulling my sleeve down over this guy. Ultimately though, everyone I talked to about the watch really seemed to like it and it was one of those talking pieces that put smiles on faces immediately. For a watch like this, I think that's a good bar to clear.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Comparisons are always hard, but this one really got me. A gold G-Shock is a gold G-Shock – there's not really anything else quite like it. But, in the interest of keeping things interesting, I was able to pinpoint to very different watches that represent different approaches to where this watch falls in the greater horological landscape. And when I say very different, I mean <i>very </i>different. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Mido Commander Shade"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["402444bc-cdf6-4111-a14e-8cc1a285119e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This watch gives off a totally different vibe, but it's still an all gold-tone watch, albeit a coppery shade of rose gold instead of the pure yellow of the G-Shock. The standouts here are the retro dial with the dual day and date windows at three o'clock, the sunburst finish, and the integrated mesh bracelet. In a funny way, the G-Shock almost feels like the brash '80s reaction to this watch's more demure 1960s attitude.</p>\n\n<p>$1,070; <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://us.shopmido.com/commander-shade-pvd-rose-gold.html/" target=\"_blank\">shopmido.com</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 'Jumbo' In Yellow Gold"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["dadc413f-898f-417d-9a5b-e964e9761540"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Ok, before you freak out about me even dreaming of making this comparison, hear me out. If what you're looking for is a gold-colored watch with an integrated bracelet that is sporty and can take a bit of a beating, does it get any better than a gold jumbo Royal Oak? Sure, you could buy gold G-Shocks for all your friends and still have money left over before you'd get anywhere near the price of this watch, but the fact remains that they're not all that different in certain ways.</p>\n\n<p>$55,400; <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.audemarspiguet.com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak/15202BA.OO.1240BA.01//" target=\"_blank\">audemarspiguet.com</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["c8356e63-b678-45a3-b81e-df24eda0d80e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Casio G-Shock GMWB5000 Full Metal might appear to be a rather complicated watch, with four buttons, an app, and various display modes for its LED screen. It's solar powered, it's Bluetooth connected, and it's tough as nails. But when you boil it all down, this is actually a very simple watch. It is exactly what it looks like – a somewhat large, somewhat shiny, gold watch that makes no apologies for what it is. And why would it? This is a watch that's not about having hunted for it harder than the next guy or having a deeper appreciation for its mechanics. No. It's a watch that's about having more fun than those around you, reveling in the watch's slightly brash attitude, and remembering that watches are, above all else, about having a good time and taking pleasure in the little moments.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>The Casio G-Shock GMWB5000 Full Metal is a limited edition and is priced at $600. For more, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.casio-watches.com/basel/en/product/g-shock/gmw-b5000.html/" target=\"_blank\"><i>visit G-Shock online</i></a><i>.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"c5a98862-9273-410e-b572-4ffcad8703a2","container_id":5634,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1528917591268-a9eq1b7iwxd-9c8acb7229cdadb92636d51f595747ed/3H0A5549_copy.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2018-06-11T14:26:43.546-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T08:55:46.689-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1528917591268-a9eq1b7iwxd-9c8acb7229cdadb92636d51f595747ed/3H0A5549_copy.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/casio-g-shock-gmwb5000-full-metal-gold-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000 Full Metal","tags":[]},{"id":5601,"slug":"the-breguet-marine-reference-5517-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Breguet Marine Reference 5517","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2018-06-05T13:30:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2018-05-25T10:52:00.024-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:03:29.021-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>An updated design for Breguet's flagship sports watch.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106670112001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":52456,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>What you see here is a watch that I did not expect to encounter at Baselworld heading into 2018, but perhaps I should have. It's the completely redesigned Breguet Marine, a line that I think fits more comfortably within the Breguet fold with its new look than previous iterations did. It picks up and runs with a handful of design codes seen last year in Baselworld with the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-breguet-marine-equation-marchante-5887/" target=\"_blank\">Breguet Marine Equation Marchant 5887</a>. That was an incredibly complex talking piece of a watch that came with a visible cam for the equation of time superimposed over a tourbillon, in addition to a perpetual calendar display. Here we have a simple automatic with date. If last year's release was the Marine talking piece, this year's is its flagship. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["811d05c9-b7a5-4ad9-8413-5a037440264b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Looking back, I've long felt that the Breguet Marine has fit rather uneasily within the Breguet lineup since it was initially added to the collection in 1990. Enthusiasts tend to go to Breguet for classically designed wristwatches with designs inspired by equally classic pocket watches of the late 18th and early 19th centuries. They also come to the brand for the Type XX line of sporty chronographs that reference Breguet's mid-20th-century focus on watches for French military aviators.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Marine History"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["4a5ff405-a09d-4714-9643-3e0b975b8313"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Breguet Marine traces its origins back to a time when Breguet supplied marine chronometers to the French Royal Navy. Breguet's reputation as a watchmaker and marketer are rightly regarded as legendary by today's watch-collecting community. But his company's status as a military supplier is most often talked about in the context of the aforementioned Type XX pilot's watch. It's possible that some watch collectors don't actually know about A.-L. Breguet's status as official watchmaker to the French Royal Navy during his own lifetime. His career was prodigious, and what might have been a crowning achievement in another watchmaker's career can seem like a footnote in the inventor of the tourbillon's. Breguet received his prestigious appointment on October 27, 1815, eight years before his death in Paris and 14 years after registering his patent for the tourbillon. By the time he received the appointment, Breguet was the most famous watchmaker in the world. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Breguet Marine Reference 5517"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5213bb2a-76f1-4197-b225-f44ef7cea048"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Case"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As the flagship sports watch from Breguet, the new Marine offers a large, robust size and a very sporty new design, while making sure to nod to the company's history and its own skill sets in meaningful ways. Breguet is, after all, the premier watchmaking brand within the Swatch Group lineup, so a beautiful luxury watch with great attention to detail is what collectors are entitled to expect from the new Marine. I think that Breguet delivers on this promise in most of the key areas. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["34debe5e-1f2a-4b9b-845e-7fca0513b4bd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Marine's case measures 40mm in diameter by 11.5mm thick, though the watch wears a a tad larger thanks to a new proprietary lug structure and its protruding crown guard. As you can see, that crown guard has the look of a stylized propeller – an obvious nautical reference – as well as prominent ribbing all the way around the case band. This extra bit of decoration around the case may feel unnecessarily baroque to some wearers when you consider that the watch we're reviewing is a sports piece with 100 meters of water resistance. But it's also a white gold wristwatch from Breguet, a watchmaker for whom ample decoration is par for the course. One of the hallmarks of all the cases that have been redesigned in the Marine line are new proprietary lugs, which change the overall look of the watch considerably. They also call for their own proprietary straps (both leather and rubber), and there is no bracelet option of which to speak. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b075f3b6-8ccb-48d9-8c7c-f9744e2aee30","526b13c3-8041-4679-9299-101b3d068175"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of the real standout aspects of the new Marine is its beautiful hand-guilloché dial, a wonderful nod both to Breguet's history and its present-day skills. Breguet operates dozens of antique rose engines in a dedicated department for this antiquarian form of decorative art. But the Marine dial doesn't bear the customary repeating geometric pattern that one typically associates with guilloché. Instead, it's a depiction of a series of waves that appear to have been put down onto the gold dial more or less at random. The shimmering effect of this pattern beautifully recalls late afternoon light streaming across moving water. The dial is further embellished with applied Roman numerals for the hours, which have been filled generously – perhaps too generously – with Superluminova. Besides making for a super-bright and legible dial in the dark, the accumulated effect of all that lume in the numerals is a less than precise look, which, to my mind, detracts from an otherwise artfully rendered dial. The hands, too, are filled with lume in their rounded tips. These are an interesting take on traditional Breguet hands. They're pseudo-Breguet hands, if I can employ such a term. The real deal would have open circles, of course. The real deal would also not be at home on a sports watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>You may have noticed that the four-digit number (3398) on this particular Marine's dial does not match the four-digit reference number 5517. This is standard practice for Breguet. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.breguet.com/en/house-breguet/unmistakable-signs/single-number/" target=\"_blank\">Each watch is uniquely numbered.</a> And in fact, the Marine ref. 5517 I wrote about from Basel, while otherwise identical, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breguet-marine-5517-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">had a different number.</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["a9bdb85d-4b64-49c9-8947-b01ea2ba5e5b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>To power the new Marine, Breguet has drawn on Caliber 777A, a modern automatic movement vibrating at 4Hz (28,800 vph) and offering more than 50 hours of power reserve. The 777A is an 15-ligne caliber with inverted in-line lever escapement, with a pallet fork whose business ends are made from silicon. Like the vast majority of the mechanical watches Breguet makes these days, it comes with silicon balance spring. In 2018, silicon watch components are hardly a novel thing, but Breguet's near uniform use of them is something worth noting. Love them or hate them, silicon components are more resistant to magnetism than those made of steel or Nivarox, offer better rate stability, and have the potential to extend service intervals on watches; and this is all while easing the very act of servicing the watches they equip. It's tempting to wonder why such an outwardly conservative marque as Breguet would unabashedly embrace silicon, but it's also useful to ponder whether a relentless innovator like the company's founder would have settled for an outmoded technology if a better spring became available. My guess is he would not.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["83e2ab04-fee0-490d-9af4-8ba58773bdb9","787f1f58-a923-458a-a02d-6ee9a8c8ed19"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In terms of Caliber 777A's finishing, it is a good looking movement that has been decorated in a thoughtful way to honor Breguet's nautical history. Whereas other variations of the Breguet Caliber 777 have come with more expected embellishments such as Geneva waves, the 777A has its own type of striping, which appears to recall the deck of a wooden ship. This is a nice, unexpected touch. Its rotor also calls to mind half of a captain's wheel.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Strap And Clasp"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["1d68793e-a5b9-4120-a671-0abda5573431"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The current lineup of the Breguet Marine 5517 comes in three different case metals, two precious and one not, and the choice of a rubber or alligator strap. I spent my week with a white gold version that arrived on a leather strap – but in hindsight, I do wish that I had requested the rubber strap, as I prefer the look of this watch on rubber. The Marine is ostensibly a sports watch, after all, though certainly a very fancy and expensive one, and I think rubber is the way to go. I have to say that I was less than thrilled with the deployant clasp. The one that Breguet makes for the Marine is indeed finely crafted, even beautiful, but it's high ornamentality seems to me a bit out of step with the spirit of a nautically themed sports watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9db4a18a-dd79-4e02-8d18-9dcada89ed12"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>My week with the Marine reference 5517 began on an sunny afternoon in April when a package arrived at my desk from Breguet. To my immediate delight, I'd received the white gold, blue dialed version that had impressed me in Basel. I knew pretty instantly that the watch had the potential to be polarizing with readers, with its ornately shaped case and shimmering, wave-patterned dial, but I couldn't help thinking that its design was a great improvement over the previous generation of Marines, which to my eye lacked a strong identity.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A couple of days later, the weather here in New York was almost too good to spend the day at my desk, so I headed down to South Street Seaport to get some experiential shots of the Marine in a habitat about as close to this watch's natural one that you're likely to find in New York. The mid-afternoon Manhattan light danced on the Marine's guilloche dial in a way that I hadn't experienced in my first two days wearing the watch. I looked at the dial, then at the little stretch of water where the East River meets New York Harbor, and in that moment I understood what I took to be the fulfilled intention of the designers and the guilloche-ers of Breguet. The likeness was not only uncanny and impressive, but really beautiful.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f0756617-1e1d-4d35-a9ae-58b38d558d53"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I've never owned a Breguet before – I haven't even test-driven one, to be honest. But it's a brand I've long been able to get behind on an intellectual level. The Breguet Classique line strikes me as the watch that an older, more gentlemanly, better dressed version of myself with kids might wear. I've also admired the way Breguet has balanced some of the most classical elements in contemporary watchmaking – the fluted cases, the guilloche dials, the Breguet hands – with really cutting edge watchmaking. We've already addressed Breguet's early adoption of silicon and its decision not to treat it as a novel material but as the backbone of its production. But the company hasn't stopped there – far from it. Breguet has also made headway in the arena of high-speed escapements, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-breguet-classique-chronometrie-7727/" target=\"_blank\">and has even tamed magnetism,</a> long the bane of mechanical watchmaking, to make what just might be the ultimate low-friction escapement.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["e2ef130a-ff35-4dfb-8c74-a98f001348b9","843376c9-569a-40ac-abdc-3f32a0e72c4f"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Over my time with the Breguet Marine, I began to feel that the dial was both my favorite and my least favorite aspect of this watch. I've already talked about how much its guilloche surface appealed to me on an aesthetic level. And indeed, I've been lucky enough to visit Breguet and see the army of artisans the company employs to make what is probably the most consistently beautiful line of guilloche dials in modern watchmaking. The new Marine dial offers an unexpected twist on this most traditional of decorative arts. At the same time, I feel like the decision to fill applied Roman numerals heavily with lume was a miss, so I often felt both admiration and frustration with the look of the dial. Was there a better solution? Does a sports watch need applied Roman numerals? Should such indicators <i>ever</i> be filled with SuperLuminova? Does it make sense for a brand like Breguet? I'm not a watch designer, and I'm not sure if these are questions that Breguet's designers considered. There is also the matter of the Breguet-style hands, which aren't <i>real</i> Breguet hands and which come thick with lume as well. The combination of these aspects did not seem an easy or a natural one to me, and I questioned whether the timepiece on my wrist was a sporty luxury watch or a luxurious sports watch. The simple answer is of course, both.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Breguet Marine ref. 5517 costs $28,700 in the white gold configuration I wore for a week (rose gold is the same price, and titanium is $18,000). So, what is the competition for a high-end sports watch, available in precious metals, that is inspired by nautical culture but makes no claim to being a dive watch? There are quite a few current-production timepieces that tick these boxes, some of them more boldly than others.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["4cb023a6-fec1-4d2c-8b5d-e0ac61d5aed2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Marine's natural competition would seem to come from another firm that operates at the highest echelon of horology, such as Patek Philippe with its Aquanaut. One of my favorite Aquanauts came out last year in white gold with a beautiful blue dial like the Marine we have here. The Patek Philippe 5186G may have been presented as a 20th Anniversary piece for the Aquanaut in 2017, but it's not a limited edition and remains in the current collection. The 5186G is going to set you back <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.patek.com/en/collection/aquanaut/5168G-001/" target=\"_blank\">$38,560.</a></p>\n\n<p>Another logical place to look would be the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, a watch whose Genta-designed porthole look ties it, in spirit at least, to a maritime lifestyle. A stainless steel Royal Oak Selfwinding on a bracelet is going to set you back <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.audemarspiguet.com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak/15400ST.OO.1220ST.01//" target=\"_blank\">$17,800.</a> Moving up to a rose gold version on a leather strap will cost more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.audemarspiguet.com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak/15400OR.OO.D002CR.01//" target=\"_blank\">at $32,000</a> even. And going for the full rose gold treatment on your Royal Oak is of course still more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.audemarspiguet.com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak/15400OR.OO.1220OR.01//" target=\"_blank\">at $50,500.</a></p>\n\n<p>In terms of aesthetics – and in terms of a brand heritage tied to marine chronometers – perhaps the closest watch you're likely to find to the new Marine comes from Ulysse Nardin, whose own Marine Chronometer range offers a nice in-house movement, a round case shape, and in certain executions, similar-looking proprietary lugs. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["0e9ae55e-d1bb-4ee7-b0cf-1c9669b470b8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>After a week of wearing the new Breguet Marine 5517, I stand by my initial impression that the new time and date model is an improvement over the last generation of Breguet Marines. I found that this was a watch that surprised me and revealed itself as the week unfolded. I believe a lot of effort went into making this Marine a beautiful object that would fit into the world of Breguet while also providing a more versatile and sporty look. This was no simple task. I get the sense that the designers of this watch looked at the most classical elements of a Breguet: Breguet-style hands, applied numerals, a guilloche dial – and put a sport twist on each. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>For more information on the Breguet Marine reference 5517, $28,700, visit </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.breguet.com/en/timepieces/la-marine/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Breguet.</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>Visit Hodinkee affiliate Crown & Caliber to shop pre-owned <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.crownandcaliber.com/collections/breguet-watches?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=disclosure-box\%22 target=\"_blank\">Breguet</a> models.</p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"b97d0f70-f231-4389-b9de-3c7111f46c1c","container_id":5601,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1528126052012-lgnkkpbhfm-335e5f431fc896e74abff76f51e12c9d/hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2018-05-25T10:52:00.040-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T08:56:04.255-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1528126052012-lgnkkpbhfm-335e5f431fc896e74abff76f51e12c9d/hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-breguet-marine-reference-5517-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Breguet Marine Reference 5517","tags":[]},{"id":5486,"slug":"cartier-santos-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Cartier Santos","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2018-04-17T13:59:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2018-04-13T13:42:50.757-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:03:29.237-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>One of the brand's oldest designs gets its biggest overhaul ever.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106669550001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":442709,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":"CARTIERROUNDUP","apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The word \"iconic\" might be the most overused adjective in watches. And following closely behind it in the hackneyed department is the story that begins something like, \"Iconic is an overused word, but so-and-so's vaunted such-and-such is a true icon that stands up to naysayers and deserves the title.\" I've definitely written that before (sorry), but I'm going to spare you the tedium today. The Cartier Santos is one hell of a watch and its design integrity, build quality, and thoughtfulness speak for themselves. No \"iconic\" required.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When I first saw that Cartier would be relaunching the Santos collection at SIHH 2018, I'll admit I wasn't out-of-my-mind excited. The Santos always seemed like a <i>fine</i> watch to me, but not a watch worth a raised pulse. However, every day is a school day, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/first-take-sihh-2018-cartier-santos-drive-tank/" target=\"_blank\">sitting down to look at the new collection that first morning of the show</a>, I realized that this go-around, the Santos was something different. It is now something truly lust-worthy and I needed to spend some time with one of these watches ASAP. Luckily the kind people at Cartier North America decided to oblige my appeal, and I was able to wear a Santos around New York City for a week ahead of its launch in San Francisco earlier this month.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["365ee7e4-287e-47d5-a44d-753ec95b7c20"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Over A Century Of Santos"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As many of you are probably aware, the Santos is generally accepted as the first watch designed for the wrist from the beginning. In the late nineteenth and early-twentieth centuries, people were strapping pocket watches to their wrists or fitting old movements into modified cases with straps, but the Santos was, from idea to initial execution, a wristwatch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["0148bfaf-1f6a-4b86-8e8b-29c80e6ae06e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In 1904, Louis Cartier made a special watch for his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, a Brazilian aviator who needed a timekeeper he could check without taking his hands off the controls of his early aircraft (Santos-Dumont flew lighter-than-air ships extensively before getting into airplanes, in 1906). Cartier obliged, making Santos-Dumont a little gold watch with exposed screws and a square profile. It's not exactly what you think of when you hear \"pilot's watch,\" but it's as real-deal as it gets in the history of flight. (If you want to read more about this, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/hodinkee-magazine-volume-1/" target=\"_blank\">check out Volume 1 of the HODINKEE Magazine</a>, where my good friend Jason Heaton lays out the entire history of the pilot's watch, including the early influence of the Santos.)</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8d308acf-e857-4ee7-b363-ab1a450d24b2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A few years later, around 1911, Cartier put the aptly-named Santos into production, selling a refined version of the square watch at its flagship boutique in Paris. Remember, this is still half a decade before the Tank was to be invented, so lest there be any arguments about which influenced which, know that the Santos had the lead by a long shot. In case you're wondering, these early Santos models were produced in partnership with Le Coultre, who was able to create the tiny hand-wound movements needed.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["77ea3798-9835-4a11-8f19-c6657f5825d3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Over the ensuing decades, Cartier made dozens, if not hundreds, of variations on the theme. The defining characteristics of the watch have always been the square dial with Roman numerals, the square case, and the screws in the bezel. Other traits such as the crown guards and the bracelet came much later, but now it's hard to imagine the Santos without them.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fe8340a5-bcaf-4615-9688-328063e28a28"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Speaking of which, the Santos bracelet might be as recognizable as the watch itself. In 1978, Cartier created what we can think of as the first modern Santos. This watch was a two-tone steel and yellow gold model, with a polished yellow gold bezel and a new bracelet that echoed the screw motif of the bezel, only with yellow gold screws punctuating the steel bracelet links. At the time, this was one of the more affordable watches from Cartier and it's hard to imagine the louche 1980s aesthetic of broad-shouldered pinstripe suits, pastel foulard neckties, and Gucci loafers without the Santos there to finish the look.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c28691f1-8adc-4eb0-af8a-7711454abfbb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Most recently, there was the Santos 100 collection. Launched in 2004 to commemorate the centennial anniversary of Louis Cartier making a wristwatch for his pioneering friend, it's a watch that very much speaks to the trends of the early 2000s in watchmaking: it's large, it's more overtly masculine, and it's about making a statement. For many fans of the old Santos, the Santos 100 spoke just a little too loudly, despite trying to say the same things as its predecessors. The Santos 100 remained <i>the</i> Santos in the Cartier collection for over a decade – until now.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Old Watch, New Life"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["34d8a50c-1a5a-40ac-afdf-3c8fceafe768"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As you can see, the Santos has a pretty robust history and relatively fixed design codes. Reinventing something like this and balancing the respect for its past, and the desire to make it feel fresh, is tough stuff indeed. But Cartier really swung for the fences in a way that might make Hank Aaron blush. They weren't afraid to throw things out, bring new ideas to the table, and create a Santos that feels right for today.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bcae7b41-0222-4de1-b7ac-0b8c1f0ebe81"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Along with the modern watch comes a modern marketing strategy too. It's easy to forget in our little watch-world bubble that most watches are not bought by \"watch people.\" Most watches are bought by human beings who want something nice to put on their wrists; they want to buy into a brand image or a lifestyle; they want to communicate something by wearing a Cartier Santos instead of a generic whosie-whatsit. Building a particular image around the product, whether it's by hosting a non-traditional launch event in San Francisco, or signing up Jake Gyllenhaal as a brand ambassador, is no less important commercially than creating a good product from the start.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["92e2d7cf-0eba-4352-b7d8-d7f6a98c76d2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"Cartier is a <i>maison</i> of paradoxes, you know, of tensions,\" said Arnaud Carrez, International Marketing and Communications Director of Cartier at the Santos launch event in San Francisco earlier this month. \"There is always a balance to be found and Santos is exactly this. It's taking a classic of the <i>maison</i> and finding contemporary narration around the watch. That's what we always need to find. We have amazing icons, but we need to express them in the contemporary, relevant manner.\" </p>\n\n<p>Deciding to debut the watch in San Francisco at a three-day event that felt more like the TED Conference than a watch launch says a lot already. Instead of flutes of champagne and hushed conversations there was a juice bar in a repurposed pier building and panel discussions about creativity and art featuring the likes of actor Idris Elba, chef Alice Waters, and designer and artist Es Devlin. The evening festivities included a concert from Hot Chip, Phoenix, and Jamie XX. Like I said – not your usual luxury Swiss watch event (believe me, I <i>wish</i> this was the norm).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e9073776-b148-4116-8313-14d9e12ccc46"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"We think people are a bit bored with the usual events, all looking exactly the same\" Carrez noted. \"We knew what we built in needed to be unique. We have substance, we have content, and the ideas of being bold and being fearless resonates very well here in San Francisco. We said, 'let's build content beyond the product' and create something that connects with other communities.\" Continuing, Carrez emphasized the role that marketing and positioning plays in a launch like this. \"It's a subtle exercise, but one that is very exciting. Santos is about a whole universe, about a spirit. We need to capitalize on that. We need to build something that is totally different than what you typically find in a watch launch and I think we've done it. We want to push boundaries – we don't like routine.\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The New Santos"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["9d18348a-8fd9-44e4-9b03-10870386e6cd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The new Santos isn't a watch, but rather a collection of watches. There are 12 models in all, split between two sizes (medium and large). Two of the 12 are special skeletonized verions in the larger size, and we'll mostly be ignoring those as they're a different beast entirely. The key traits, however, are shared across all the models and the collection really does feel like a unified family with just enough variety for different tastes.</p>\n\n<p>I chose to spend my time with the medium Santos in stainless steel, thinking it the purest expression of the watch overall.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Case And Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["106eefd2-e7d3-4ff0-8e05-01fc1c7a72a6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Looking at the Santos, you'll notice right off the bat that this isn't the same watch you've seen before. The case still has the general square shape, but it's a lot curvier this time around. The medium model measure 35.1mm x 41.9mm (while the larger comes in at 39.8mm x 47.5mm), but it's a little hard to get a sense of exactly what these dimensions mean when we're used to talking about round watches. I did a little experiment, trying the watch on alongside round watches of various sizes, and, in my totally subjective and non-scientific opinion, I'd say the medium wears similarly to a 39mm watch while the large wears more like a 42mm watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bd7c37eb-7f40-4692-956b-a355cb6e57c8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The curves come through most clearly in the new shape of the lugs and how they seem to effortlessly flow into the crown guards. There's a shapeliness to the new Santos case, and the right side in particular looks like undulating waves rendered in steel. The use of brushed finishes along the top and sides accentuates the softness, while a slim bevel at the edge adds necessary definition. The case is just 8.83mm thick, so it's extremely slim and integrates nicely with the bracelet (more on that in a bit).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["390ecdbd-8214-47c6-b759-ad438c2c1fe6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The biggest change to the case, however, is the bezel. It's still square, sure, but it's no longer a perfect rounded square shape simply screwed on top of the case. At the top and bottom it now extends a bit and slopes down to between the lugs. The idea here is that it makes the bracelet or strap feel more integrated, and it's a raging success. To me, it completely changes the look of the watch for the better. My only complaint is that the bezel is brightly polished, which makes it both a scratch and dust magnet as well as a nightmare to photograph for Instagram (hey, this is a 21st-century watch we're talking about here – I stand by this being a legitimate problem).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["67e8ba5f-4a82-4e2a-9766-7393b2a27246"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The dial, on the other hand, is pure classicism. The silvered finish doesn't have any fancy<i> guilloché</i> going on and the dark black Roman numerals and railroad minutes track are complemented by the blued steel hands you're used to seeing from Cartier. The medium model does not have a date (yes!), while the large model has a small window at six o'clock in place of the numeral (less yes!). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["54ad61b1-96c8-4416-bfec-6f2805814e3b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The movement definitely isn't something Cartier wants you to be too worried about with the Santos, and I'd tend to agree with them. However, that doesn't mean they've skimped out. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Powering both the medium and large versions of the Santos is the caliber 1847 MC. This is an in-house movement that measures 25.6mm across, runs in 23 jewels, beats at 4 Hz, and has a 42-hour power reserve. It's a modern workhorse automatic with simple decoration, and a Cartier-signed rotor (not that you can see it through the solid caseback). The caliber also makes use of nickel phosphorous components that make it extra resistant to magnetism, plus it's covered with a paramagnetic alloy inside the case. Cartier doesn't provide an exact gauss measurement, but does say that the Santos is \"effectively resistant to the powerful magnetic fields a watch may be exposed to in everyday life.\" That's good enough for me. And, no fear, there are date and no date versions of the 1847 MC, so you're not going to get a dead crown position on the medium model.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f86e3943-4e89-4559-858e-ddea978cb8a3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As an aside, the skeleton versions of the Santos do not use an 1847 MC base, but rather the 9619 MC. It's a completely different movement that utilizes an atypical bridge structure to display the typical Cartier Roman numerals.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Bracelet (And Strap)"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["1d15b8fe-3eca-4cec-b361-0052a010182b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>To me, the bracelet is everything for the Santos. It's a lot of look, but in the best way possible. There's something so unabashed and shamelessly indulgent about the Santos bracelet, and while I can't quite put my finger on why, I'm into it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The bracelet on this Santos is solid stainless steel with matching steel screws. The links are angular, but not sharp, with brushed surfaces and polished edges that echo the lines of the case. The entire thing tapers gently from the case to the hidden clasp at the back, though it never gets too narrow or delicate. I love that the screws are seemingly random in orientation. I'm a pretty Type-A person (I know, big surprise), but this bit of wabi-sabi is much needed (it also prevented me from being able to obsess over whether each was <i>exactly</i> in place at all times).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1dc0b901-dfe4-4059-b103-ba85d83cb109"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When the Santos showed up on my desk, the bracelet was too big for my wrist. But, no fear, I didn't have to make a trip uptown to have it sized. Cartier's patent-pending SmartLink system meant I could make the adjustment myself. Basically, you push a button on the bottom of a link and a pin will partially pop out, letting you slide the link out. The pins don't come all the way out, so you can't lose them (smart one, Cartier), but you can make the adjustment with a toothpick or any other soft, pointed object you have lying around. I'd emphasize soft here, as it would be easy to scratch the heck out of the bracelet quickly if you used something sharp or too hard.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["418357f2-4f1a-4511-8a25-0cba576dcf1f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you want to swap out the bracelet altogether – though I don't know why you'd ever want to do that – that's easy too. Another patent-pending system, this one called QuickSwitch, lets you push a tab between the lugs, and then simply slide the bracelet or strap out of place. You can do with with your fingernail. Together, QuickSwitch and SmartLink remind me a lot of what Apple did with the steel bracelet for the very first Apple Watch, and it's good to see watchmakers paying attention. It's easy to be jaded about these things, but let's remember that most customers don't know what a springbar tool even is, and something like this make a <i>huge</i> difference in terms of customer enjoyment.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9b3d25ed-ea52-4e84-9f17-72162c803659"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Adding one more nice touch to things, Cartier lets you pick your strap color when you buy the Santos. Most models come natively on the bracelet (though you can opt out for some of the solid gold models) and then you choose a strap from a variety of leathers to go with your new watch instead of having to take a pre-selected option. My only gripe with the new strap system is that it means you can't use normal straps on the Santos at all. There's no springbar system, only the proprietary QuickSwitch connector. Luckily Cartier makes very nice straps in a variety of colors and styles, otherwise this could be a real issue.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["e7bf0981-b94c-4c21-adcb-5720fb5072db"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Strapping on the Santos, I couldn't help but crack a smile. There's something really charming about its intentionally bold look. I said it earlier, but this is a watch that apologizes for nothing. It's something people are going to notice, but not in a blinged-out-dinner-plate kind of way. The Santos doesn't look quite like any other watch, and people are going to want to know what it is. It's a design that looks good from 10 feet away but rewards closer admiration.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["38040437-9fda-49aa-88a2-1ee7f5f5e480"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>After a day or two, I really settled into wearing the Santos. It stopped having the feeling of a vintage throw-back and just felt right. The way I know a watch is really good is if, during my review time with it, I look down at my wrist to check the time and don't even notice I'm wearing something different. The Santos felt perfectly at home on my wrist, and the bracelet and case proved extremely well balanced and comfortable over the course of a full day. I could definitely see myself wearing this watch regularly.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["541d08f5-9474-4e46-99a9-3fd8479e1493"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Cartier's straps are perfectly nice – better than most, in fact – and the new QuickSwitch system makes changing them in and out as easy as can be. However, for me, the Santos is a bracelet watch. With the new bezel, it actually looks like a fully integrated bracelet unless you really scrutinize it, and I kind of treated the watch like that while I was reviewing it. To be honest, I put the strap on for the sake of due diligence, and then put the bracelet right back in place.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cedb6732-f560-4275-81da-b8b8b6024314"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of the best things about the QuickSwitch and SmartLink systems is that they make the Santos a perfect sharing watch. When it was announced at SIHH, I got a text from my wife asking if I'd seen it yet and what I thought. That's not an everyday occurrence, people. Once I had one in the apartment, there was no way I was keeping it off her wrist. Luckily, I had the bracelet sized to her wrist in five minutes, she wore it out to dinner one night, and then I got it ready for another day at the office in less time than it took me to walk our dog.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3a2d09e1-f4c1-4597-a382-39bf4354a383"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The medium vs. large debate is, in most cases, a personal one. That's true here to an extent, but the lack of a date on the medium model makes it a better design in my opinion. Also, the proportions of the Santos work much better in a smaller size. The large actually looks like a blown up version of the smaller watch rather than something that was meant to be that size from the beginning. It's not bad by any means, but I'll take the medium all day over the large.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["2412c3ff-2a84-4e36-83f5-06deb78918b6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>At $6,250 in stainless steel, with both the bracelet and a strap of your choosing, the Santos presents pretty great value in my opinion. There are plenty of watches in the $8,000 to $10,000 price range that don't exhibit this level of finish, quality, and attention to detail, not to mention the watch's overall handsome look. However, there are a lot of great stainless steel watches under $6,500 and you're spoiled for choice if that's what you're looking for. I could list options for days, but I've tried to distill out three here that I think compete with the Santos in three particular ways.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"NOMOS Glashütte Tetra Neomatik 39"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["b2795c00-e360-4527-8eac-1a3fc5c454d6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Okay, so this watch has basically two things in common with the Santos: It's square and it has an automatic movement inside. Other than that they're pretty different. The Santos is much curvier and has a more industrial-chic quality to it, while the NOMOS Glashütte Tetra Neomatik 39 is all clean lines and sharp angles. However, there just aren't that many square watches out there. The little pops of color on the dial (especially the gold \"neomatik\" at 12 o'clock) and the stepped lugs add some real depth to this otherwise clean-as-can-be watch. So, if you're looking for something square but the Santos doesn't quite do it for you, the Tetra could be a viable alternative.</p>\n\n<p><i>$3,860; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://nomos-glashuette.com/en/tetra/tetra-neomatik-39-421/" target=\"_blank\"><i>nomos-glashuette.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["c8d8ecce-8790-4899-824d-86fca3b24ff4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This might not be the most obvious comparison here, but stay with me. What I think makes the Santos so successful is that it's a mid-sized watch that shows just the time, and looks great on either a robust bracelet or a strap of basically any style. The basic Oyster Perpetual does exactly the same thing, despite being round instead of square. Everything about this watch is purpose-driven and there's nothing here that you don't absolutely need. There are a few color options, but I've totally fallen for the new white option quietly unveiled at Baselworld – it's a soft white, not a bright white, and it's the one to go for. I'm also partial to the 36mm size ($5,400), but I know that the 39mm is the most crowd-pleasing.</p>\n\n<p><i>$5,700; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rolex.com/watches/oyster-perpetual/m114300-0004.html/" target=\"_blank\"><i>rolex.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Cartier Tank Américaine"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["02ba8c0b-d5b8-4fc8-8b34-ac55eb9cceeb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As far as I'm concerned, the greatest competition the Santos faces is from within its own family. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-tank-americaine-steel-review/" target=\"_blank\">The stainless steel Tank Américaine was one of my favorite watches of 2017</a> (if not my outright favorite) and I still think it's a straight stunner. If you want a non-round watch from Cartier, this and the new Santos are the two contenders for daily wear. The Tank is a bit more refined and low-key, while the Santos isn't afraid to rev its engine a little. Both feature automatic movements, both are available without the date, and both are quintessential Cartier through and through. Between these two you really can't lose.</p>\n\n<p><i>$5,100 (medium), $5,750 (large); </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.cartier.com/en-us/collections/watches/mens-watches/tank/tank-américaine/wsta0018-tank-américaine-watch.html/" target=\"_blank\"><i>cartier.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["14b747fe-1f9d-48b9-b657-bd5f41d1e32d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Cartier Santos is that rare watch that balances familiarity and ingenuity. It's a watch that you can be comfortable with from the get-go, while still catching yourself staring at it for a little too long throughout the day. Although I didn't think I was a Santos guy before spending a week with the latest iteration, the watch won me over and I now firmly believe that it can stand side-by-side with the best of Cartier's modern watches. It's not a design for everyone, but that's part of the charm. If you're at all intrigued, I highly recommend you give the new Santos a closer look.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Breathing new life into a design that everyone thinks they already know might be difficult work, but with the Santos Cartier has done what they do best: executed subtle but important improvements, kept the the classics as they should be, and made it all look effortless in the process.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>The Cartier Santos is available now worldwide. Prices start at $6,250 for the medium size in stainless steel with both the steel bracelet and a strap of your choice. The large 18k rose gold model seen here is priced at $37,000 while the medium two-tone model is priced at $9,100.</i></p>\n\n<p>For more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.cartier.com/en-us/collections/watches/exceptional-creations/santos-campaign.html/" target=\"_blank\">visit Cartier online</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>Visit Hodinkee affiliate Crown & Caliber to shop pre-owned <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.crownandcaliber.com/collections/cartier-watches?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=disclosure-box\%22 target=\"_blank\">Cartier</a> models.</p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"9bdf37fb-b7eb-4abe-a8c7-c86c913ce1be","container_id":5486,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1523891536432-hhhpa199smr-767fc8e18a48f9e74fa36cc77cc7d60d/B89A0072_copy_2.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2018-04-13T13:42:50.778-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T08:56:21.991-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1523891536432-hhhpa199smr-767fc8e18a48f9e74fa36cc77cc7d60d/B89A0072_copy_2.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-santos-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Cartier Santos","tags":[]},{"id":5459,"slug":"iwc-portugieser-hand-wound-eight-days-edition-150-years-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight-Days Edition '150 Years'","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2018-04-06T11:02:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2018-04-03T09:33:56.553-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:03:29.576-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>For an important anniversary we get a purist's take on a true classic.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106669551001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":89950,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Watch brands love celebrating anniversaries. A quick walk around the halls of SIHH or Baselworld will yield countless chances to mark \"historic moments\" and \"groundbreaking innovations.\" For my money though, a minor product marking its 35th year in production or a brand touting its all-important 115-year anniversary falls a little flat though. Now, the 150th birthday of a company – <i>that's</i> an anniversary that deserves a proper celebration.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>To mark that milestone, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/iwc-jubilee-150th-anniversary-collection-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">IWC has launched a massive \"Jubilee Collection\"</a> that includes dozens of watches from the brand's simplest and most accessible, to some with crazy new complications. All are limited editions of varying quantities, and the idea here is that fans of the brand can buy a milestone piece regardless of budget. It's actually a very respectful way of thanking those who have made the brand successful, not to mention a savvy commercial move.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["adf4228c-047a-4a9c-b467-2b6435175928"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Of all the pieces in the collection though, one immediately stood out to me above the rest: the Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight-Days Edition \"150 Years.\" This is a modern interpretation of IWC's most classic model and it is both faithful to the original and interesting on its own merits. I knew I needed to get my hands on one as quickly as possible, and after a week with the watch I can say that the latest Portugieser might just be the very best of IWC, past and present.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A Special Request"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["87156807-51e2-441b-95fb-5c6d781b3ca7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A good origin story is tough to beat, and the Portugieser has a heck of a tale to tell. Sometime in the late 1930s, two Lisbon-based watch wholesalers named Rodrigues and Antonio Teixera contacted IWC, saying that they had a unique request for a watch designed to sell in their home market. They wanted an oversized wristwatch that performed to marine chronometer standards. This meant the watch would need to use a high-grade pocketwatch movement, so it wasn't a simple matter of designing a new dial or of more careful regulation. IWC got to work. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4bce2a52-a9e5-4684-b39a-64f77cecb035"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>At the time, this new creation didn't have a name. People at the manufacture just referred to the project as the \"Portuguese\" watch, and the name has stuck ever since. Funnily enough though, according to IWC's own sales records, the very first Portuguese didn't go to the Teixeras – it went to Odessa, Ukraine, in February 1939. It would be three more years before the watches would make their way to their namesake country. By that time, IWC had applied the reference number 325 to the watches, and this is the number to look for today if you want an original Portuguese.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cca911b1-0897-434f-8416-1d09ca18d4e6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are a few different generations of Portuguese, with IWC evolving the caliber inside as technology developed through the mid-20th century. Aesthetically though, the watch remained largely unchanged, with its 42mm steel case, open dial with Arabic numerals, and leaf-shaped hands persisting until the watch was discontinued in the late 1970s/early 1980s during the Quartz Crisis.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a4da374e-d75d-4e2c-a061-7329e2cb6caa"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>You'll notice that up until now I've been calling the watch the Portuguese, not the Portugieser. That's because when IWC launched a full collection inspired by the reference 325 in 1993, that was the name. Through the '90s and '00s, IWC expanded the collection, using the basic aesthetic codes to develop an automatic with a seven-day power reserve, a simple two-register chronograph, and all manner of complications including tourbillons, minute repeaters, and perpetual calendars. The name was only switched over to Portugieser when the watch celebrated its 75th anniversary in 2015.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight-Days Edition \"150 Years\""},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["59b52196-5004-48cc-889f-bab9c132d389"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Portugieser collection has always been about pure function and simple design. The Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight-Days Edition \"150 Years\" (which I'm going to refer to as the \"Hand-Wound\" from here on out) takes this a step further though, paring things back to basics and focusing on getting the details just right. It's a watch that really benefits from a closer look, since you could easily miss the things that make it most worthwhile at first glance.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Case"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The first thing you notice when you see this watch in the metal is that it's big. When you pick it up, that impression only intensifies as you turn the 43.2mm x 12.3mm case over in your hands. However, while I'm usually the first person to give watch makers a hard time about oversized dimensions, I think IWC made the right call here. Before you grab the pitchforks, allow me to explain.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["30b3614f-77a4-45b9-97aa-ce2ec13cc4a3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Portugieser has always been a watch with an oversized case. Just look back at the history outlined above – the original watch was a pocketwatch movement put into a case with lugs and a strap for the wrist. The watches weren't large for stylistic reasons (small watches were <i>en vogue</i> then anyway), but rather out of pure necessity. The caliber 74, which powered the ref. 325 generation Portugieser watches, is 37.8mm (17 ligne) across. That's the <i>movement</i> I'm talking about, not the cased watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1b850c5d-e4cb-4397-9629-13be503da44e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So, as far as I'm concerned, the Portugieser is always going to be slightly oversized. That's just part of the watch and something you have to be ok with if you're going to buy in to the collection. A 36mm diameter might sound alluring in theory, but I think it practice it would end up leaving me flat. If I had my way, this watch would always measure in at the original 42mm. But, I digress.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d8caedf1-c111-4c02-ae2e-157e4417c521"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Despite the size, the Hand-Wound's case is extremely elegantly proportioned. It resembles neither a hockey puck nor a dinner plate, and the lugs smoothly transition from the caseband. The brushed finishes are extremely clean and the polishing on top of the lugs, and the slim bezel, bring some brightness to the mix.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["947b3ad8-1328-41c2-a8cb-7d9007583215"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of the things unifying the Jubilee Collection watches is the treatment of the dials and hands. In the case of the Hand-Wound, this means a bright white lacquer dial and blued steel hands. The lacquer is meant to simulate enamel, which was an IWC hallmark in the 19th century, and I have to say it does an outstanding job. The multi-coat lacquer is bright and glossy, with that almost-wet look. Multiple people, including a few around HODINKEE HQ, asked me if it was enamel when the first saw the watch on my wrist. Considering how expensive an enamel dial of this diameter would be, I think the lacquer is a great choice that presents a really visually rich look.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of the best things about the white lacquer is how great a ground it is for the glossy black printing. The signature Portugieser-style Arabic numerals are deeply colored, with the outer railroad-style chapter ring anchoring them nicely as well. The running seconds sub-dial at six o'clock has a gentle countersink that you really notice when the watch catches the light. This is one of those things that made me smile time and time again while wearing the watch. It's a little detail, but one that adds a lot to the bigger picture.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9ee663cd-0549-4d51-ba12-28ff9daeda6e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8dff7354-9bd6-47d5-b347-d55e8a4a6e4a","a1ebe174-e407-44c0-9a49-eed08bd96289"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The blued steel hands are the perfect choice for this watch too. Previous versions of the Hand-Wound have featured metallic hands matching the case metal, and they've always looked a little flashy and cheap to me. The blue is intense and brings another dimension to the dial. Without these particular hands, I don't think this watch works as a whole, but with them it really sings.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There is a date window at three o'clock, which might get some of the purists upset, but it doesn't bother me one bit. Is the watch probably better without the date? Sure, I'd prefer it that way. But the size of the window and scale of the numerals is spot on, and when checking the time your eye doesn't get unnecessarily drawn to the date.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["2a335d3c-e532-496a-98b1-df583b7a3bc3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>IWC's naming convention is a bit of a spoiler here, but the watch is powered by the caliber 59215, which is an in-house, manually wound movement with eight days of power reserve. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As with the original Portugieser watches, this watch is properly scaled to the movement inside. The caliber 59215 is, again, a 37.8mm (17 ligne) movement, so it fills the caseback of the Hand-Wound, showing no spacer or dead zone when viewed through the massive sapphire window on the rear of the watch. As far as the architecture goes, the movement isn't really related to the original pocketwatch calibers used in the first Portugieser, but the identical dimensions are a happy accident anyway.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["293ad928-f0e3-40d3-98e2-de532b17fa26"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The caliber 59215 is one of IWC's modern generation in-house movements, meaning it has a lot of technology incorporated that's mean to make your watch perform better over time. These movements aren't about fancy hand-finishing, though they're certainly decorated nicely, with deep stripes on the plates and bridges, and polishing and bevels on the wheels. Instead, the emphasis is on the full bridge structure (which aids stability) the hacking seconds, and the stopworks mechanism that prevents the watch from continuing to run once the torque in the single barrel drops below the level necessary for accurate timekeeping. The Hand-Wound either runs accurately or not at all.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["369523d5-4d87-46a7-9164-8bb6abf93668"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Looking at the movement, you'll notice two additional things: a power reserve indicator on the right, counting down eight days, and a 150th anniversary medallion set into one of the bridges. The latter is purely for decoration and is just for the Jubilee watches.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["2f5006f0-4d78-4adc-bc89-ba51410b4430"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Hand-Wound comes on a black alligator strap made by Santoni that is paired with a stainless steel pin buckle. While the strap is definitely one of the nicer OEM straps I've seen in a while, I still decided to swap it out, basically as soon as the watch showed up at the office. I know that the black alligator is meant to elevate the watch a bit, and it's another unifying trait of the Jubilee watches, but I found it a bit sterile for the already clean Portugieser. I grabbed a nubuck strap in a dusty bluish-grey color and put the IWC buckle on it. Bravo to IWC for not putting a needless deployant on this too. I'm over those.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With the proper strap in place, I was all set to strap the Hand-Wound on for the week. This probably comes as no surprise at this point, but my first thought when fastening the strap was \"Damn, this is a big watch.\" Luckily though, that ended up being far from the watch's most lasting impression.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e0ef1c02-0686-4fe1-b58a-e755b3375814"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>On the wrist, the Portugieser looks stunning. The white dial has tons of negative space, an effect made more pronounced by the thin bezel and sapphire box crystal, and there's something about it that just draws the eye in. I found myself wrist-gazing quite a bit with this one, especially over the first two or three days. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Legibility is outstanding, with the hands standing out against the dial and the combination of numerals and chapter ring allowing for precise reading. Though there is no lume on the dial, I found I could still read the watch in all but the darkest settings, since in most cases the white lacquer dial could be angled to reflect enough available light to give me a good sense of the time anyway. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ca166c66-8701-4fb6-8008-e7fa3a25d2f1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I do want to address the size issue head-on though. This is a big watch. For me, it's a size that on paper is unwearable. I find 41mm to be pushing it, personally, so 43.2mm is typically out of the question. I tried to go into this review with an open mind though, and it paid off: I like everything else about this watch so much that I'm willing to deal with the size. The shape of the lugs and proportions of the case make it extremely comfortable and in practice I didn't really notice the size too much during the course of the day. It's only when I looked down that I remembered what I was dealing with. I don't think I could realistically wear this watch every day – it's still big on me – but I would definitely rock it, dimensions be damned. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I really struggled with this one. The Portugieser is such an iconic watch that it's tough to figure out to what you can fairly compare it. However, coming in at $9,900 in stainless steel, the Hand-Wound sits in an extremely competitive price segment. After much deliberation, I decided on a pretty eclectic set of criteria for the watches you see here, but I think what this shows is that the Portugieser is still, after all these years, pretty unique. If this is the watch you're looking for, you probably aren't doing too much comparison shopping. That said, here are a handful of other models worth considering if you're in the market.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Omega Constellation Globemaster"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["5e3e042f-4b8f-4a49-8cda-9261675f1c3f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If the size of the Portugieser is still a no-go for you, the Globemaster is one of the better time-and-date watches around today. It has a killer movement inside, with both the co-axial escapement and METAS Master Chronometer certification, and the styling is classic Omega. There are a few dial/strap options and the 39mm case is so comfortable it's a little crazy. Personally, I think the stainless steel case with the dark blue pie pan dial is a combo that's tough to beat, but maybe that's just me. This is a more of a high-tech watch than the Portugieser under the hood, but it still has a very vintage sensibility on the outside. </p>\n\n<p><i>$6,900, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.omegawatches.com/watch-omega-constellation-globemaster-omega-co-axial-master-chronometer-39-mm-13033392103001//" target=\"_blank\"><i>omegawatches.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin 41"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["9f24337e-7818-4e89-8ce5-6a368fc23815"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Jaeger-LeCoultre probably isn't the first brand that comes to mind when you think about big watches, but the manufacturer does make an up-sized version of its classic ultra-thin dress watch to appeal to that other audience. Sure, it's 41mm and not 43.2mm, but because of how thin it is, I don't think you'd want to go any larger (even if you're a big-watch guy). With just two hands and a clean-as-can-be dial, this is a no-nonsense watch with an extremely fair price tag. It's not an overt throw-back of any kind, but the Master collection could be from literally any era and I don't think I'd question it. Think of this as the choice for the modern minimalist.</p>\n\n<p><i>$7,850; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/us/en/watches/master/master-ultra-thin/1338421.html/" target=\"_blank\"><i>jaeger-lecoultre.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Glashütte Original Senator Excellence"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["c71c7e49-6b33-4711-8f91-60e9135a49f7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is an outstanding watch that is forgotten about all too often. A while back, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/glashutte-original-senator-excellence-beyond-chronometer/" target=\"_blank\">Nick wrote a great story about the precision timekeeping at work in the Senator Excellence</a> (it performs well beyond COSC chronometer standards), and you should definitely take a look if you're looking for a great sub-$10,000 watch. Glashütte Original's styling choices are pretty traditional here, with the Roman numerals and curvy hands, but everything still has that signature clean finish. From a distance, this watch might not look like anything special, but once you understand what you're looking at, it's a hard watch not to like.</p>\n\n<p><i>$9,700; </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.glashuette-original.com/collection/senator/senator-excellence/1-36-01-01-02-30/" target=\"_blank\"><i>glashuette-original.com</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Closing Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["113f8a80-0a64-4e00-976a-edca9df2eb5a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Spending a week with the Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight-Days Edition \"150 Years\" turned me into a believer. Despite loving the design and being a big fan of the vintage models, I went into this pretty skeptical about the size of the watch, and whether or not it would work for me. However, the execution of the watch's details won me over and the thoughtful handling of the proportions made the watch much more comfortable than I had expected. When it was time for the Portugieser to go back to IWC, I must admit I was a little sad to see it go.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Ultimately, this watch is a fitting homage to both IWC's century-and-a-half of watchmaking, and the truly iconic watch that spawned the foundational collection over 75 years ago. It's not all nostalgia and rose-tinted glasses. Instead, it's a blend of the best of IWC's past, a modern sensibility, and the manufacture's current technology to create a watch that might even inspire its own tribute in a few decades. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>The Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight-Days Edition \"150 Years\" is limited to 1,000 pieces in stainless steel ($9,900) and 250 pieces in red gold ($18,800). To learn more or to contact a boutique, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.iwc.com/us/en/watch-collections/jubilee-collection/iw510212-portugieser-hand-wound-eight-days-edition-150-years-.html/" target=\"_blank\"><i>visit IWC online</i></a><i>.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"f2b5fc20-5276-4c1c-85f2-ccb3bfef4989","container_id":5459,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1522818472164-85uhfjfibyk-a9a6b45e385259de63a33d2444c99b8c/_H2_DSCF6361.jpg","width":3300,"height":1856,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2018-04-03T09:33:56.635-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T08:56:41.631-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1522818472164-85uhfjfibyk-a9a6b45e385259de63a33d2444c99b8c/_H2_DSCF6361.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/iwc-portugieser-hand-wound-eight-days-edition-150-years-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight-Days Edition '150 Years'","tags":[]},{"id":5349,"slug":"vacheron-constantin-overseas-ultra-thin-perpetual-calendar-pink-gold-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar In Pink Gold","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2018-03-14T14:09:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2018-03-12T15:50:33.460-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:03:29.846-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>A lushly warm take on an aristocratic complication.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":45998,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Vacheron Constantin's Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar is an aristocrat among aristocrats. The first version of the watch <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-overseas-ultra-thin-perpetual-calendar/" target=\"_blank\">came out in 2016, in 18k white gold</a>; this was the year that Vacheron introduced an updated new Overseas collection, with more refined designs overall, and with, for the first time, an Overseas that was a pure perpetual calendar. It was a collection that also included a new Overseas Ultra-Thin (which I felt then, and still feel, is one of the most <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-overseas-ultra-thin-and-some-highly-subjective-thoughts-on-the-perfect-watch/" target=\"_blank\">beautiful contemporary Vacheron wristwatches</a>) and both watches have the same basic movement, which is the Vacheron caliber 1120. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is probably one of the two or three most well known movements of the twentieth century and for fans of ultra-thin watchmaking, certainly one of the two or three most important. The caliber 1120 (also known as the Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 920, the Patek Philippe 28-255, and the Audemars Piguet 2120) debuted in 1967, at which time it was the flattest full-rotor automatic winding movement ever made. Amazingly, this record stands unbroken today (thinner automatic movements exist, but not full rotor). If you want a genuinely horologically meaningful basis for a really elegant automatic perpetual calendar, this is about as good as it gets.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4a372ab6-ef00-4c09-afbb-c6b27711995f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are quite a few ways to implement a perpetual calendar mechanically, of course – some of the major innovations in perpetual calendars in the last fifty or so years have given us, increasingly, perpetual calendar watches that are as close to foolproof as a perpetual calendar is ever going to get. Probably the most severely reductive, mechanically modern perpetual calendar <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-ochs-und-junior-perpetual-calendar-a-full-perpetual-calendar-complication-with-only-nine-additio/" target=\"_blank\">is from ochs und junior</a>, which is pretty much completely diametrically opposed to the Vacheron Overseas Perpetual Calendar in both design and philosophy – the perpetual calendar mechanism in the ochs und junior uses just nine additional parts.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In the latter case, you have a great deal of elegance from an engineering standpoint – after all, the fewer parts there are, the less there is to go wrong, and there is real beauty and intellectual satisfaction in this kind of simplicity. However, in mechanical watchmaking, there are a plethora of types of elegance, each with its own satisfactions, and a classically implemented perpetual calendar built on the 1120 – the caliber 1120 QP/1 – is a direct connection to a tradition of perpetual calendar construction that's several centuries old. Caliber 1120 QP/1 uses as traditional a perpetual calendar plate as you can find in a modern wristwatch, with a program wheel, moonphase, and all the demanding-to-make steel cams and jumpers that make this sort of perpetual calendar such a rich store of watchmaking techniques and history.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"images":["2b0714b9-9219-4c4d-b2b7-dcf59b31acd8","7a672adf-d17d-4467-8203-1b2c1ebf8df7"]},"type":"Block::SlideshowImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Alas, the perpetual calendar mechanism is hidden under the dial (as is the case with all traditional perpetual calendar complications of this type) but I think a big part of the appeal of this type of perpetual calendar mechanism is that you see all the magic, but none of the backstage business necessary to make it happen.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["6c2a8dfe-10b4-4a32-bcf6-7c14c4f1db23"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of the many variations in perpetual calendar design can be found in the indications for the month and for the Leap Year cycle. The Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin uses a single hand for both, which makes one full revolution every four years, and it's a quite neat solution mechanically because you need only to put a hand on the program wheel – which also turns once every four years – and hey presto, an integrated month and Leap Year indicator. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The challenge, of course, is maintaining legibility. Perpetual calendars with month windows are an obvious and very readable way to handle getting that information across, although with the addition of some complexity into the perpetual calendar mechanism. There are pointer-type month indications, but these generally just show 12 months, with a separate hand for the Leap Year cycle. With 12 months in the month sub-dial, the month hand turns through a luxurious 30 degrees every time the month changes. With 48 months, that drops to 7.5 degrees and cramming all 48 month names into a relatively small circle would mean making the sub-dial essentially unreadable.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["67180d49-ccb4-4252-9186-90be477912ef"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The solution for the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is to use letters for only every third month. The months that don't get letters, are indicated by dial markers, and the Leap Year is shown by quartering the subdial at the Leap Year. Although it's still not the acme of instant readability, it works surprisingly well (and helps keep thickness down, as you don't need additional gearing to step up the rotation of the month hand).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Although it's not one of the modern era's idiot-proof perpetuals (or maybe one should say \"idiot-resistant\" – the mechanism has never been made that can elude destruction at the hands of the truly idiotic) setting up the Overseas Perpetual Ultra-Thin is straightforward. Setting the day of the week, date, and month is via pushers recessed into the case, which index the wheels of the respective indications; the moonphase has its own separate corrector, which can be advanced without affecting any of the other indications. While systems have been invented in recent years that allow all indications to be set from the crown, or which improve on the traditional corrector system by introducing correctors that require no stylus, it's not especially an inconvenience to use the correctors, especially as you won't have to use them very often (which, after all, is the point of a perpetual calendar).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And there is something undeniably satisfying about doing things the old-fashioned way – after all, there's more to life than convenience.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8cf46494-1eb0-4f2f-88a6-30df339ddf15"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["92dddd13-b8b6-40a8-a85c-e8b50ffd3e3e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The moonphase is not essential for the display of calendar information per se, but it is a wonderful and always lyrical addition to the perpetual calendar which, after all, is a kind of astronomical complication itself (insofar as it encodes the mismatch between the calendar, and the Earth's actual orbit around the Sun). I've always enjoyed moonphases that have moon-faces, but the smooth moon used by Vacheron does add a certain serenity to what might have been a too-busy dial. The moonphase disk is lightly textured, and decorated with engraved constellations and hand-painted stars.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["664e9af6-518a-4120-a353-b069862a38a0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"right_rail"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, like all watches in the new Overseas collection (well, it's been two years, but given Vacheron's longevity I think \"new\" is still a reasonable characterization) uses a quick-change strap system, which is simple, practical, and secure. I wore the Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin on a deep blue, textured rubber strap with a gold folding buckle, and found it a very comfortable fit. For such an aristocratic implementation of such a steeped-in-history complication, the Overseas Perpetual Ultra-Thin succeeds surprisingly well at being a highly user-friendly everyday watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I found this, overall, an extremely satisfying watch to wear. It's a very contemporary design in some respects – the rubber strap certainly puts it squarely in modern watch territory, as does the quick-change strap design, and the luminous hands and indexes (which are, let's face it, a darned nice thing to have on a daily wear watch). But it's also a watch with deep connections to a very venerable technique for perpetual calendar construction, and to the kinds of movement finishing that travel along with it. That the perpetual calendar mechanism is concealed under the dial is part of the attraction; that it's a completely traditional implementation is what makes it so. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7cb14446-f59a-4a23-9a10-701ee50eefa0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>On a personal level, this is my favorite implementation of the Overseas design, I think since the family was first introduced (in 1996, though in a sense, the roots of the Overseas collection go all the way back to 1977, when the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bring-a-loupe-january-13-2017/" target=\"_blank\">222 was introduced</a>). They make so much sense as ultra-thin watches – the slim dimensions tame the angularity of the bezel (which in previous versions of the Overseas could seem a little aggressive) and the fact that such a delightful movement powers the Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual makes it, if you like this sort of thing at all, basically irresistible. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f3f6e607-4fd3-4564-a4ec-ddef036da3f7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>At $74,500, it is certainly not the cheapest perpetual calendar on the market, but this sort of excellence has never been, and will never be, inexpensive. For watch enthusiasts, as for enthusiasts of anything where there are dramatic differences between the high and low end, one reaches a point where appreciation is not necessarily about ownership, and the fact that this kind of watchmaking survived the Quartz Crisis, and is still going on today, is something we can all feel good about. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Available in mid-March at Vacheron boutiques. For more info on the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual in rose gold, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.vacheron-constantin.com/en2/watches/overseas/overseas-ultra-thin-perpetual-calendar-4300v-000r-b064.html/" target=\"_blank\"><i>visit Vacheron-Constantin.com.</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"a563d9dd-47c6-44ef-bfb7-a9c769da6e63","container_id":5349,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1520880834183-7h62jblpcxe-1d1daf9fcd4d170baf443a11ade0c01e/hero.jpg","width":4899,"height":2756,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2018-03-12T15:50:33.518-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T08:56:57.490-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1520880834183-7h62jblpcxe-1d1daf9fcd4d170baf443a11ade0c01e/hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vacheron-constantin-overseas-ultra-thin-perpetual-calendar-pink-gold-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar In Pink Gold","tags":[]},{"id":5282,"slug":"omega-seamaster-railmaster-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Omega Seamaster Railmaster","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2018-02-20T13:16:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2018-02-09T10:30:01.428-05:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:03:29.997-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>A new collection nods to the past while utilizing all of the brand's latest technology.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106670301001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":184690,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The last few years have been particularly interesting ones in the watch world. As watchmakers new and old work to find ways to appeal to a new generation of customers with different wants, needs, and behaviors than the previous generation, they have tried a number of strategies. There are those who think straight vintage re-issues are the way to snag that fledgling collector who might be comparison shopping against a vintage Sub; there are those who think going high-tech will convince someone that mechanical watches can still go toe-to-toe with smartwatches as a solution for the future; and there are those who decide taking the best of both of those approaches to create products that feel both grounded and contemporary.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Omega is, at times, all three of these watchmakers. There are watches like those in <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/omega-speedmaster-60th-anniversary-limited-edition-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">the Trilogy collection</a> that are literary part for part recreations of pieces from the archive at one end of the spectrum and watches like <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/omega-speedmaster-x-33-regatta-in-depth/" target=\"_blank\">the cutting-edge Speedmaster X-33</a> at the other. But, sitting right in the center, is the new Seamaster Railmaster. No watch better exemplifies this third way of watchmaking, which at once nods to the past while also creating something new that could never have been imagined half a century ago. This watch draws on a collector favorite from the 1950s, but you don't need to know a single thing about Omega's history to get everything out of the Seamaster Railmaster. It is that all important thing – just a really great watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Sixty Years Of The Railmaster"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["26be1035-7809-4d77-8855-7eb8743b26ab"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In 1957, Omega released the very first Railmaster, the reference CK2914. We all think of dive watches and hearty chronographs as tool watches, but the Railmaster was a tool watch of a different sort: It was a watch for scientists that could stand up to the magnetic fields encountered in the laboratory. As you likely know, magnetism can wreak havoc on a mechanical watch, distorting the balance spring and impacting its ability to maintain a stable frequency, and thus keep accurate time. The CK2914 used a soft iron inner case as a Faraday Cage and a thicker dial to shield the movement from outside magnetic fields of strengths up to 1,000 Gauss. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Omega wasn't the only watch manufacturer creating this kind of watch. Rolex famously has <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-milgauss-z-blue-edition/" target=\"_blank\">the Milgauss</a>, which takes its name directly from the 1,000-Gauss resistance (<i>mille</i> being French for 1,000) and was developed in partnership with the Swiss laboratory CERN. The watch was produced from 1956 until 1988 (with there being two major generations in that time frame, the 6543/6541 and the 1019), before it was again revived in 2007. Likewise, IWC has the Ingenieur, which actually came before either the Milgauss or the Railmaster, debuting in 1954. By that time, IWC already had a history of producing anti-magnetic watches for pilots, so the Ingenieur seemed a logical next step. Two decades later, it would get an overhaul by Gerald Genta in the form of the Ingenieur SL and today the brand has kept the line alive as a collection of racing-inspired watches, though that's a story for another time.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>Watch brand's are great at finding anniversaries to celebrate and historic models that need re-inventing, but Omega kind of hit the jackpot last year with the concurrent 60th anniversaries of the Speedmaster, Seamaster 300, and Railmaster. Totally separate from the watch collection being reviewed here, Omega also released a limited edition recreation of the original 1957 Railmaster too, faithful down to nearly every detail.</p>\n\n<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/first-take-the-new-omega-releases-baselworld-2017/" target=\"_blank\">Learn more about the trio of limited editions here.</a></p>","title":"The Railmaster 60th Anniversary Limited Edition","images":["463e79d4-d454-4d95-91a2-2f189a979515"],"alignment":"right"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While technologically advanced and practical for a very specific type of wearer, the Railmaster was not a top seller for Omega and the model was retired in 1963, just six years after its launch. You have to remember, this was the age of typewriters, rotary telephones, and manual transmissions – watch wearers weren't contending with a world filled with electronics, all of which generate some level of magnetism that a mechanical watch must deal with in one way or another.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Over this short period of time, however, a number of variations of the Railmaster CK2914 were produced. Most had black dials, though there were some variations with white dials, including a few with railroad-style numerals and markers. The hands varied a great deal as well, with the most recognizable black dial, with its triangle-shaped luminous markers, being paired with broad arrow, dauphine, and baton-shaped hands in different configurations. While the different varieties make vintage Railmasters particularly interesting, it also makes knowing if a given example is good or bad a challenge. This is one of those watches where you really want to consult an expert before jumping.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["dd01dffd-7af4-4680-9138-ccfcd156c0cf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The most lasting impact of the Railmaster, however, is seen in Omega's commitment to anti-magnetism in all of its modern watches. There is no brand today that is pushing harder in this direction, and Omega has been doing so for quite some time. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/admin/articles/5282/edit?saved=1518195423\%22 target=\"_blank\">The Seamaster Aqua Terra 15,000 Gauss</a> certainly got a lot of attention when it was released in 2013, but Omega has quietly (and sometimes not so quietly) been integrating that technology into all of its high-end movements too. The brand's stated goal is to make its movements as durable as possible and to reduce the frequency with which they need to be serviced. That's an easy objective to get behind.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Seamaster Railmaster"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["86d8a9a3-6ea3-4199-be5a-fbff6c902e40"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>That brings us to the watch at hand, the awkwardly named Seamaster Railmaster (as one of my colleagues noted, there are no trains in the ocean, but I digress). This watch sits within Omega's main Seamaster collection, alongside the various Aqua Terra and Planet Ocean watches. While at first I thought this was a strange choice, the logic sort of makes sense to me now. Instead of giving the Railmaster its own top-line collection – placing it alongside the Speedmaster and Constellation – placing it within the Seamaster collection places the watch in the context of the strides made within that family over the last decade or two and underscores that the Railmaster's special properties aren't something to be walled off. Rather, this is a stylistic divergence that brings its own weight to bear on the rest of the Seamaster models as well.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I knew right away at Baselworld last year that this was a watch I wanted to spend some time with. However, while many of the new releases would be coming to market over the summer months, this watch wouldn't be landing on wrists until much latter in the year. I had to be patient. Eventually though, a pair of Railmasters made their way to HODINKEE HQ, and I knew it was worth the wait.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"<p>The Railmaster is one of those watches that I put on and enjoyed right from the get-go and that didn't seem ostentatious or out of place in my life at all.</p>","source":""},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I chose to spend my week primarily with the version of the Railmaster you see above, with the black dial and the stainless steel bracelet, though I did wear the grey dial version with a leather NATO strap for a day or two just to get the full experience.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Case"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ac6f3993-4f0b-4c0d-9aec-79d229b7e56f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Seamaster Railmaster comes in a 40mm stainless steel case that measures a hair over 12mm thick. The result is something that feels very sturdy both in the hand and on the wrist without being excessively heavy or chunky. You're not going to mistake this for a vintage watch by any means, but that's not the point here. What makes the dimensions really work though is the sense of proportion. The way the bezel is integrated into the case is simple but effective and the length of the lugs in relation to the size of the case makes it feel like a compact, no-nonsense package.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d0d9247d-405e-4b44-9103-5428d89db2d6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f8c62f8f-e265-47af-bc79-d521d5a84aa6","de1cb740-7887-4c67-b2ae-e6c5674b6174"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The finishing on the Railmaster's case is almost totally unique in the modern watch world. There are no brightly polished surfaces in sight. Not one. From the bezel to the case band to the facets of the twisted lugs, everything has a soft brushed finish. I would describe this as sitting somewhere between a bead-blasted look and a true directional finish. You definitely see some grain, especially on the sides of the case, but it's not dramatic, and I get the sense that the watch will age exceptionally well, taking marks and scratches gracefully. The twisted lugs are quintessential Omega and to me they're essential to making this design work.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["69225a1b-0bf8-4143-8d51-e8d45bb978e8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One thing that might surprise you is the lack of an open caseback. Old-school antimagnetic watches had to have closed backs by necessity – that's no longer the case with the use of non-ferrous materials in movements. That said, while I wouldn't mind looking at the beautiful Caliber 8806 movement underneath, there's something super pure about Omega opting for the steel back here, plus it cuts down a bit on height. You'll also notice that the wording and Railmaster logo all appear perfectly upright. This is because of a patent-pending system called the Naiad Lock that allows Omega to both get a tight seal and ensure that the orientation is always identical. Again, it's not a make or break thing, but the attention to detail is appreciated.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2c8b0ca5-569b-42dd-87a9-09615668c8f3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As I mentioned earlier, there are two dial options for the Railmaster, one black and one grey, but they share a number of key features. Both have a dramatic, vertically brushed finish that catches a ton of light and adds a lot of visual interest. Additionally, the basic layout and markers are the same with both too. There is a white printed chapter ring at the very edge, just inside the <i>rehaut</i>, that is punctuated by 12 triangles made of Super-LumiNova that is nearly identical in color to aged radium. These triangle are actually set into the dial so the surface of the lume is nearly flush with the surface of the dial. This is a little thing, but it makes a huge different.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["eb901dac-37aa-455c-82a9-56796a1d5812"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Working our way in, there are white printed Arabic numerals at the poles, another carry-over from the CK2914, along with a matching crosshairs. The Omega logo and \"Co-Axial Master Chronometer\" are both printed in white, while the scrolling Railmaster letter mark is printed in beige to match the lume. This gives the dial an added punch while also providing a nice sense of balance.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"<p>The dial finishes alone are something to behold.</p>","source":""},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The hands are simple and effective, with a baton shape for the hour and minute hands and a lollipop shape for the central seconds hand. All are filled with lume that matches that on the dial itself, and the minute hand is ever so slightly thinner than the hour hand. The hands themselves are polished, so you get a hint of reflection off of them, further helping legibility.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["681e3261-052f-496e-9eb1-605c5dbd8c40"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The dial finishes alone are something to behold. The black can look a rich, deep black in direct lighting, but the moment light begins to hit it at any angle, the dial lights up. The brushing really catches the light and you can see the deep varied grain. This has the effect of making the dial appear more like a dark grey than a true black in most cases, which isn't something I minded at all. Likewise, the grey can appear like a soft, even dove grey in certain light and almost like a piece of polished metal in other light. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The only real downside to this is that in some lighting conditions, especially when outside on a sunny day, you can get a little too much reflection and the watch gets a bit difficult to read. Now, you can just turn your wrist a bit here and there and you'll be fine – the watch is never illegible – but it can be a bit annoying.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["1adaf111-bbf1-4f93-bc9f-e4314f27f7dc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While you can't see the movement through the steel caseback, this watch is packing serious heat under the hood. Powering the Railmaster is the Omega Caliber 8806, a time-only movement that carries the best of what Omega has to offer today. First off, it both has the co-axial escapement utilizing a free-spring balance wheel and a silicon balance spring and is certified as a Master Chronometer by the Omega-founded Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS). This means is can handle up to 15,000 Gauss of magnetism and is regulated to +4 seconds per day (there is no minus tolerance – the watch is essentially +2/-2 for a rate that is two seconds fast).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The 8806 is an automatic movement and it carries a power reserve of 55 hours. The winding mechanism works in both directions and the entire movement runs in 35 jewels. Furthermore, despite being hidden, the movement carries all the usual finishes. This means the deep stripes radiating from the movement's center point as well as a a rhodium-plated finish and red-filled lettering.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["b5b28950-fd4f-4836-bd27-d79ca255cef4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If this watch looks good on paper, and even better sitting on a table in front of you, it really hits its stride on the wrist. Sometimes you strap a watch on, and you get that settled-in feeling immediately – that's exactly how I felt when I closed the folding clasp on the Railmaster's bracelet, shaking my wrist a bit to let the watch fall properly. That the bracelet happened to be sized for me right out of the box only helped things along.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0039a9fb-39eb-4299-8b6d-21039ea83db6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>At 40mm across, this watch is on the larger size for my personal taste. I know that's right in the sweet spot for a lot of people (and even on the small side for some), but no matter what size your wrist might be or where your preference lie, the Seamaster Railmaster can wedge itself in there and work for you. The way that the bracelet meets the case with fitted end links means that you get a gentle drape of the links, and the watch feels weighty enough to let you know it's there without getting uncomfortable during days of either endless typing or walking around New York City.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cec42d4a-8c2f-4d44-8b00-f50858360e58"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Sometimes I wear watches for reviews and I end up getting lots of questions from friends and colleagues. You know, the good ole' \"Oh man, what's <i>that</i>?\" over drinks or a curious, \"Wait, what are you wearing?\" from a desk mate (hey Cara!). This watch, however, provoked none of that. And I don't think that's such a bad thing. The Railmaster is one of those watches that I put on and enjoyed right from the get-go and that didn't seem ostentatious or out of place in my life at all. The people around me didn't think twice that this is what would be on my wrist. That silence might say even more than the usual questions.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6f596c75-45c6-4656-9991-0245c46ac125"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Personally, I don't think I'd wear this watch with anything dressier than a very casual sport coat, though the size doesn't really cause any cuff problems. But calling this a \"sports watch\" somehow still doesn't feel quite right. Maybe we go with \"casual watch\" then? For a lot of people, this is a solid everyday style, going from jeans and a t-shirt to a nice sweater or a casual jacket for a night out. If you're wearing lots of suits, best to invest in a true dress watch – but for everyone else, this should do the trick day in and day out.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Up until now, I haven't even mentioned the price of this watch. The Seamaster Railmaster retails for $5,100 on the bracelet and $4,900 on the leather strap. I'm going to go ahead and say that if you're buying this watch, get the steel bracelet. For $200, you would really have to be a fool not to – you can get a comparable or better quality leather strap for about $200, while the bracelet adds hundreds of dollars in value to the watch in my opinion.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you're looking at the Railmaster, you're probably looking for a relatively casual watch in a medium size that you can wear every single day. Let's throw in the qualification that the watch must be available on a bracelet, since I've just made that non-negotiable (seriously, if you buy this watch and don't get the bracelet, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/sjpulvirent//" target=\"_blank\">message me on Instagram</a> or let me know in the comments below – I'd love to know why). Here are a few standout options that might catch your eye and offer alternatives of various kinds to the Omega.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39mm"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["2cb3b584-aade-4fd7-801e-29c12309375e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If we're talking about a daily wearer from Omega, you know the first thing we have to look at is what Rolex offers as competition. The <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rolex.com/watches/oyster-perpetual/m114300-0001.html/" target=\"_blank\">39mm Oyster Perpetual</a> is closest to the Railmaster when you factor in price and style. At $5,700, it's not much more than the Omega, and you still get a chronometer-certified watch with an anti-magnetic hairspring. You do lose the vintage styling here, as the Oyster is very much a contemporary watch, albeit one that will look good forever. The grey dial with blue accents is a particularly compelling option. So why it isn't the Milgauss here? The reasoning is simple: it is more than 50% more expensive than the Railmaster, so it's not really a fair comparison.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Grand Seiko SBGR309"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["3729185a-44eb-4c6b-8d26-e645a272bf5c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While I really like the soft lines of the Railmaster and the muted finish, some people like something punchier. At $4,600, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.grand-seiko.us.com/collections/SBGR309/" target=\"\"><u>the SBGR309</u></a> is $500 less expensive than the Railmaster and offers just that. What you're not getting here are all of the anti-magnetic properties that are core to what the Railmaster is, but if that's a primary concern for you, you're probably not worried too much about comparison shopping. If what you want is an everyday watch with a black dial and steel bracelet, this offers all of that with a slightly sharper, higher-contrast look. In particular, the Zaratsu polished case and the diamond polished hands really gleam in the light, and the entire package has the look of a high-precision timekeeper.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"IWC Pilot's Watch Mark XVIII"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["ce5a829c-8086-4d1f-9185-09335b8219d3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Okay, I'll admit it, this isn't the first watch I thought of when trying to come up with comps for the Railmaster. However, if you accept that the criteria here are a casual watch in a moderate size with a steel bracelet, it totally fits the bill. The <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.iwc.com/us/en/watch-collections/pilot-watches/iw327011-pilot-s-watch-mark-xviii.html/" target=\"_blank\">Pilot's Watch Mark XVIII</a> is priced at $4,950, so right in the same ballpark as the Railmaster. As someone who's owned an IWC Pilot's watch, I can assure you the bracelet is super comfortable and the 40mm case is slim and sits low to the wrist. On second look, with its matte black dial, antimagnetic properties, and price, the Mark XVIII might be the best comparison for the Railmaster after all.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["e3856501-f481-49e8-9ccc-4f10248c2acb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Seamaster Railmaster is a deceptively simple watch. It takes a relatively basic formula and aesthetic cues from Omega's past and uses them in a way that seems at once new and familiar. It's a watch that technologically could only exist right now, but in daily practice it doesn't feel that way at all. It's a watch that appealed to me the first time I saw it and continued to impress me after a week of wearing it. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Omega doesn't get nearly enough credit for the quality of its movements and its dedication to making them perform at the limits of what volume production mechanical timekeepers can achieve. The Railmaster is a subtle watch that harnesses the best of modern Omega watchmaking in a watch that starts with style and finishes with substance, all for a <i>very</i> competitive price. It doesn't do anything flashy, it has purposefully understated finishes, and one of my favorite things about it is how comfortable and at home it felt on my wrist from the first minute I put it on.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Sometimes it's the simplest things, done the right way, that make the biggest impression.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For more, visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.omegawatches.com/watches/seamaster/railmaster/the-collection/product//" target=\"_blank\">Omega online</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>HODINKEE is an authorized retailer of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/omega?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=disclosure-box\%22>Omega watches</a>. Explore our entire collection of Seamasters <a href=\"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/omega-seamaster?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=disclosure-box\">here</a>. </p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"9a2037f4-0f52-445e-ba61-402247402b73","container_id":5282,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1519150446197-7ble1wynljp-c18ca1f126c673cc602287945349ffdc/Hero_2.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2018-02-09T10:30:01.461-05:00","updated_at":"2022-03-05T11:37:15.636-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1519150446197-7ble1wynljp-c18ca1f126c673cc602287945349ffdc/Hero_2.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/omega-seamaster-railmaster-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Omega Seamaster Railmaster","tags":[]},{"id":5255,"slug":"girard-perregaux-1966-wwtc-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Girard-Perregaux 1966 WW.TC","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2018-02-06T11:48:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2018-01-30T09:08:41.859-05:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:29.886-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>A simple, straightforward, and refreshing spin on Girard-Perregaux’s jet-setting WW.TC. </p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":44299,"public_token":"23ffb6fce5bf1df36fdafd6eb6d3d2ba","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While the idea of world time zones dates back to the 1870s and the work of Canadian Sandford Fleming, that innovation brought with it a new set of problems. Mainly, how to categorize and understand the staging of the zones, and then, how best to determine any one zone’s offset from your local time. Solutions therein are now myriad, from arrays of clocks set to various time zones in hotel lobbies, to GMT complications that range from simple 12-hour bezels all the way up to impressively complicated worldtimers. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Time Across The Globe"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Worldtimers come in many shapes and sizes and while some manage to account for the 30 and 15-minute offset zones (I’m looking at you Newfoundland) and the regrettable existence of DST, the base concept is a watch that offers an actively coordinated display of 24 standard time zones. The cities can vary, but the idea is that if the watch is set correctly in the user’s home zone, the display (often a 24-hour ring) will show the time in all of the other indicated zones. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ff13c3ee-3dc8-4e65-86be-93916cd13e64"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While some worldtimers function off of GMT/UTC offsets referenced against a 24-hour hand (like the Bremont ALT1-WT) or use a passive city disc referenced against a 24 hour hand (like my vintage Seiko 6117-6400), the measure of a true worldtimer is that the world time display is active and runs in step with the local display, allowing for the most fuss-free indication of world time. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The concept of a world time display, specifically the type where a city ring encircles the dial of an otherwise fairly standard time display, dates back to 1931 when a watchmaker named Louis Cottier developed the functionality to simultaneously show the world’s 24 standard time zones (using a 24 hour ring and an adjustable city disc). While Cottier would ultimately share this innovation with several brands, the functionality is most commonly attributed to Patek Philippe models from the late 30s, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-patek-philippe-reference-1415-world-timer-with-eurasia-enamel-dial-one-of-only-two-known-coming-up-at-sothebys/" target=\"_blank\">like the very early reference 1415</a>, the rectangular ref 515, or lovely early Calatrava-based examples like <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/Lot/patek-philippe-a-historically-important-and-possibly-5493256-details.aspx/" target=\"_blank\">this ref 96.HU</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["aa6add96-448c-41d7-840f-1849a5501e3a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>By 1950, Cottier had developed a two-crown system that allowed simple setting of the city ring while protecting the display from accidental adjustment, just as we see on the 1966 WW.TC. This evolution of world time functionality was first seen on the Patek Philippe reference 2523 in 1953 and has arguably become <i>the</i> classic layout in the bloodline of worldtimers. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Cottier-style worldtimer would become a fixture in world time watches and the next big evolution for the complication arrived in 2011, when Vacheron Constantin showed their 37-time zone Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time at SIHH. Accounting for the international time zones that fall on 15 and 30-minute divisions, the Patrimony upped the ante and it remains the functional peak of modern worldtimer design. While other adaptations and expressions have been introduced, like the DST-tracking <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-glashtte-original-grande-cosmopolite-tourbillon/" target=\"_blank\">Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite</a>, the true worldtimer aesthetic of attempting to tame all the world’s time on a single dial has remained largely as Cottier imagined it back in the 30s.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Girard-Perregaux 1966 WW.TC "},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["f67ffa3d-737d-4123-85a3-99fd6e3f9af6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>All of this brings us to the Girard Perregaux 1966 WW.TC. Announced at SIHH in 2017, the 1966 WW.TC is a more reserved and dressy expression of the typically larger and more casual WW.TC range, which GP first premiered in 2000. While many of us would know the Girard-Perregaux WW.TC as a sporting 43mm+ cross between a chronograph and a worldtimer, the 1966 expression is a svelte 40mm with an eye towards simplicity, elegance, and balance. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I’ve long been a fan of the WW.TC, it was strange, offered in a litany of versions, and really seemed to be GP's play at creating a feature-packed watch for the modern jet set. They were made in everything from titanium to gold, and even as special editions for America’s Cup and Ferrari (to name only a few). Indeed, the variety is impressive and is part of what makes the 1966 WW.TC stand out. Here we find no chronograph, no power reserve, no date - just the time, small seconds, and world time. To my mind, this sort of reserved philosophy is where Girard-Perregaux really shines, with the 1966 WW.TC working well alongside its other 1966 family members. For many years, my (albeit infrequent) demand for a dress watch has fallen to a simple GP hand-winder from the 60s and this is likely where I developed my taste for the brand’s more simple and reserved designs. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ad1e9e1c-4b66-4743-893c-af9c4b2205bf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Two identical “GP” signed crowns flank the 1966 WW.TC’s 40mm steel case and the sub seconds sits balanced on the dial with nothing to spoil a rather profound symmetry. The idea of balance is almost useless, as aside from the minimal use of branding, I could split and mirror the 1966 WW.TC in Photoshop and most of you wouldn’t even notice. Likewise, the fully polished case is very nicely executed, but draws little attention to itself, save for its very short lugs and expansive dial proportion. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The dial is a lovely use of silver opaline with white metal markers, a blued steel hand for the sub seconds, and a split white/dark grey coloring for the 24-hour display (to let you better predict day and night in a given time zone). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["05cc8795-9b28-418b-ad4f-ca1b9fbdba94"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It’s hard to argue with the value of functionality without complexity, it’s why we like a simple Swiss Army knife, or why I love 12-hour bezels. With the 1966 WW.TC, that simple but useful display is powered by GP’s in-house caliber GP03300-0027. An automatic movement ticking at 4Hz, the GP03300-0027 has some 248 components (including 32 jewels) and boasts <i>Côtes de Genève</i> finishing and a power reserve of no less than 46 hours. Nicely finished and visible through the 1966 WW.TC’s display case back, during my use this movement kept excellent time and operated without issue. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Design"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1fb0c3c5-2c5e-437e-8d7c-5f748978e96b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you consider the idea of a minimal worldtimer (silly, yes), this would be it. Girard-Perregaux has distilled the 1966 WW.TC down to just the basics, and in a world that is constantly shouting the time at you (especially when traveling), I really appreciate this approach. Furthermore, from a brand possibly best known for using intricate bridges, tourbillons, and trick constant force escapements, the 1966 WW.TC is something of an outlier. It offers functionality attributed to complexity but does so with minimal visual baggage. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ff75447a-4b40-47df-9dcc-1c05f91e6650"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In operation, it would also be hard to make a worldtimer with much less than we find on the 1966 WW.TC. The three o’clock crown sets the time (along with the synchronized 24-hour display), and the nine o’clock crown aligns the city display. Once you have the local time set on the main display, just rotate the city disk until your local city aligns with the same time on the 24-hour ring. While both crowns do screw down, water resistance is only 3 ATM and I assume the screw down feature is to prevent the city disk from being errantly adjusted by a sleeve or the back of one’s wrist. Once set, the 24-hour display rotates along with the local hour display to ensure all 24 time zones remain coordinated. Impressively user-friendly, unlike some active worldtimers, both the time and reference city can be set in either direction on the 1966 WW.TC. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While simple in its display, the worldtimer offers a complication that is useful both for travelers or those who frequently interface with varied time zones. With the 1966 WW.TC on wrist, you can be free of the tyranny of typing “time” and then the name of a city into Google (at least for the 24 zones indicated on the dial). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["c4fe33e4-bafe-407d-b1d6-7841b703c69d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"right_rail"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>At 40mm wide, 12mm thick, and 46mm lug to lug, the 1966 WW.TC wears with an ease not common to either the WW.TC family or worldtimers at large. Weight too, even on the steel multi-link bracelet, is a reasonable 121g (when sized for my 7-inch wrist). If you don’t care for a bracelet, especially on a watch this dressy, there is an option of an alligator leather strap with a folding steel clasp. Additionally, for those wanting something a bit more luxurious, the 1966 WW.TC can also be had in pink gold on an alligator leather strap. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Providing you’re on board for the dressy look, the 1966 WW.TC wears really well on wrist. It’s small, but not so small that the world time display looks cramped. On the bracelet, it has a pleasant and noticeable weight, and the crystal does a good job of managing reflections, especially for being domed. The steel bracelet uses a comfy five-link design that lies flat and is secured by a double folding butterfly-style clasp. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["8c9fa404-91fa-41a0-a8cf-fe5953177d79"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It’s thin enough to slip under a cuff, and for a guy that frequently wears an old skindiver or a beat up Aerospace, the 1966 WW.TC feels really special. I like the simple font and the small sun and moon icons on the 24-hour ring. I like the added detail of the applied markers at 12, 3, and 9 and I like that the markers catch the light in the exact same way as the leaf-style hands. Oddly enough, after looking at the chunky markers and handsets common to other WW.TCs, I came to appreciate that there is no lume anywhere on the dial of the 1966. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Most of all, I love that GP solidified the design by leaving nothing superfluous. No additional complications, no attempt at representing the globe in the center of the dial (a pet peeve of mine), no wild use of color, nothing blocking the core displays. Yes, the Vacheron Overseas has more zones, but they are so tightly packed into the city ring that they become hard to resolve. Yes, the Frederique Constant is far cheaper, but the date display covers a good bit of the city disk. Yes, the Louis Vuitton Escale is a bit smaller and thinner, but you’ll likely be squinting to read any of the time zones. The GP feels confident, relaxed, and never seems to get in its own way. Most worldtimers are visually quite complicated, and the 1966 WW.TC’s simplicity is arguably its best feature. While the aging banker in the seat next to you breaks a sweat trying to determine the time zone in a new city on his Patrimony, you’ll be done in a glance. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["8a52f797-2e56-4a6d-b637-ab110868ce54"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Price comparisons for worldtimers can be tricky, as it’s a complication with more flavors than Ben and Jerry’s. That being said, with a list price of $13,000 USD ($12,300 on leather), the steel Girard-Perregaux 1966 WW.TC is certainly not cheap. Compared to a range of other steel worldtimers of similar size, we find the Frederique Constant around $3,500, the Montblanc Orbis Terrarum around $6,600, the 42mm Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One at $12,800, the nearly 42mm wide JLC Geophysic Universal Time at $14,000, and then we move on to much more expensive examples from VC, Patek, and Lange. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Within the 24-hour layout of a classic worldtimer, the 1966 WW.TC will definitely have to compete with the likes of the Chopard and the JLC mentioned above. I think that while all three are aesthetically quite different, they share a similar space and would be on the radar of any well-read buyer. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chopard-luc-time-traveler-one-gmt-one-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">The Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One</a> has a more youthful and sporty use of color and crown placement and does an excellent job of integrating a date without compromising the functionality of the world time display. The L.U.C also offers more water resistance, a longer power reserve, a luminous display, and a very nicely finished COSC movement. Compared to the GP, the Chopard is larger (+2mm) and the two share little in terms of styling.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["236c7b5c-45b3-4ee5-9431-ed84dc6f2d9d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Compared with <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-jaeger-lecoultre-geophysic-true-second/" target=\"_blank\">the 41.6mm Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time</a>, the GP also faces tough competition. While I vastly prefer the simple dial design of the 1966 WW.TC, it’s very hard to argue with the allure of literally any complication from JLC. Functionality has been aligned to a single crown and while visually more compressed and complicated than the 1966 WW.TC, the Geophysic Universal Time has an eye-catching use of color and, having had one on wrist, I can confirm that legibility is still quite strong.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e750580e-7612-4da8-8ee1-43897ad0b745"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>To my tastes, the Chopard is the most interesting and the best featured, the JLC the most conservative (to buy, not in design), and the 1966 WW.TC is the best size and the most classically minded. With a Cottier-style two-crown layout and no additional complications, this is the worldtimer for someone who wants to see those 24 time zones and little else. Despite being something of a fringe complication, the 1966 WW.TC is not without its competition and you could almost claim that, given a wide enough budget, today’s worldtimer enthusiast is spoiled for choice.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While the GP is not the cheapest, nor should it be, it does slot in nicely with comparable competition from JLC and Chopard. If you’re open to options up to 46mm, the lux worldtimer field becomes very crowded, with additional options from Breitling, IWC, Breguet, Zenith, Baume & Mercier, and many more. I, however, would suggest sticking to something a little more modest.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4a80bb89-221c-4983-90fa-54aefa255634"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>From the Zenith Doublematic to the Tissot Heritage Navigator, I love worldtimers and while it took me the better part of a year, I wanted to check out this new, smaller WW.TC. While the dressy look is not one that fits my day-to-day, I really hope we see this format ported to a new generation of every day (even sporty) WW.TCs that keep the accessible sizing and simple dial layout while offering just a bit of the strangeness that fueled my fascination of the WW.TC line many years ago (think titanium, rubber strap, and more impressive water resistance).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>By task and complication alone, worldtimers do a lot and Girard-Perregaux has been wise to let the 1966 WW.TC stick to its core competency as a worldtimer and confidently leave everything else to other watches. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.girard-perregaux.com/en/" target=\"_blank\">visit Girard-Perregaux online</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"80062222-172d-4a5e-a610-e5cb01574a63","container_id":5255,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1517321082987-w27r3d1nmhl-9f18d0a9340b24a22eba82572b6419c0/Girard-Perregaux-1966-wwtc-3.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2018-01-30T09:08:41.996-05:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:10:24.039-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1517321082987-w27r3d1nmhl-9f18d0a9340b24a22eba82572b6419c0/Girard-Perregaux-1966-wwtc-3.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/girard-perregaux-1966-wwtc-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Girard-Perregaux 1966 WW.TC","tags":[]},{"id":5124,"slug":"rolex-sky-dweller-stainless-steel-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Rolex Sky-Dweller In Stainless Steel","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2018-01-04T11:56:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2018-01-02T16:05:49.597-05:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:30.082-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>The most down-to-earth version yet of the Crown's high-flying traveler's timepiece.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":251292,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Sky-Dweller has always had a slightly contradictory character. It's the most complicated watch Rolex makes (in terms of mechanical complexity, it's only rivaled by the Yacht-Master II) and when it was introduced in 2012, it was only available in precious metals. At the same time, it's clearly intended to be an extremely practical watch – durable, easy to use, and easy to live with, even under the stress of navigating the world's increasingly unfriendly skies. However, in 2017, Rolex introduced two Rolesor versions of the Sky-Dweller (Rolesor is the company's term for its mixtures of steel with white or yellow gold) which immediately made this most practical of complicated watches, instantly more accessible. In Everose and on a strap, the Sky-Dweller is a $39,550 watch, and in white gold on a white gold bracelet it's $48,850, which obviously makes precious metal versions of the Sky-Dweller as much statement pieces as anything else. (Jay-Z has been frequently spotted wearing a yellow gold Sky-Dweller, for example.) Though we've done <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-sky-dweller-the-most-complicated-modern-rolex/" target=\"_blank\">A Week On The Wrist with a Sky-Dweller</a> before, that was an Everose model on a strap and with the newer, less overtly luxurious models out, we thought this would be a good time to revisit the Sky-Dweller. The new version in steel, with a white gold bezel, is now the most affordable model, at less than half the price of the precious metal versions, and that's the one we chose for our latest A Week On The Wrist.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a5a8b403-fd03-4563-9ee8-1da33a9bbcf9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Complications In The Rolex Sky-Dweller"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Sky-Dweller is a combination of two complications: a dual-time zone, or GMT complication, and an annual calendar. The former is easy to understand: the watch displays the time in two time zones simultaneously, and has an hour hand that can be independently set, forwards or backwards, in one-hour jumps. The latter is a feature of \"true\" GMT watches, as is the fact that the hour hand is set from the crown and can be re-set to a new timezone without stopping the entire watch. There are simpler dual time zone watches, which have a 24 hour hand that can be independently set, but to use them as a traveler's watch – that is, to display local time with the hour and minute hands, and home time with the 24 hour hand – generally requires quite a bit more fiddling with the crown and also involves stopping the watch while re-setting the hour and minute hands, thus requiring the user to also re-set to a time standard.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["927cec60-0b92-491a-81f8-411e86399f6d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The annual calendar is the second complication found in the Sky-Dweller, and is also relatively straightforward. The Gregorian calendar has days of varying length – some months have 31 days, and others have only 30. Most notably, February is the oddest man out, and depending on whether or not it's a Leap Year, can be either 28 or 29 days in length (29 in a Leap Year). A perpetual calendar watch automatically jumps to the first on the correct day at the end of the month, no matter the month (so, for instance, on February 28th in a non-Leap Year, and on February 29th in a Leap Year, the date will, at midnight, advance to March 1st). Thus, a perpetual calendar never needs to have the date adjusted manually. An <i>annual </i>calendar, on the other hand, \"knows\" (so to speak) if it's a 30 or 31 day month but it does <i>not </i>know to jump to March 1 on February 28th or 29th. Thus, an annual calendar needs to have the date manually re-set once a year. Of course, a standard calendar watch has to have the date advanced manually five times a year – once for each 30 day month, and once at the end of February.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The annual calendar has some significant advantages over the perpetual, although some of these have been eroded in the last couple of decades by advances in perpetual calendar design. Relative to perpetual calendars, annual calendars have been generally mechanically less complex, as well as less apt to be damaged by mishandling on the part of their owners. Interestingly enough, the annual calendar is a quite recent innovation in wristwatches – it wasn't until 1996 that the first patent for an annual calendar was granted, to Patek Philippe, who launched the complication in the reference 5035. Ironically, Patek's original design was actually relatively complex but just as with the perpetual calendar, the last couple of decades have led to increasingly reduced parts counts, and Rolex's annual calendar mechanism required the addition of only four wheels to the existing Rolex date mechanism.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Ring Command Bezel"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There is, arguably, a third complication in the Sky-Dweller: the Ring Command Bezel. The Ring Command Bezel was first introduced by Rolex in the Yachtmaster II – the other contender for Most Complicated Rolex. The Yachtmaster II was introduced by Rolex in 2007 and it's a regatta timer. You can set the countdown for any interval from one to 10 minutes, and if you need to re-synch your seconds hand to the starter's gun, you can do so by pushing the reset button while the chronograph is running. The seconds hand then flies back to zero and immediately begins running again, while the minute hand flies back to the nearest minute. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["73e3a4ed-11ff-4486-8dd9-b095c90df94b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2d347506-9ea6-4ab2-b505-2b79f4542e4c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In the Yachtmaster II, the Ring Command Bezel has two positions: neutral, and an active position reached by turning the bezel 90º to the left. Turning the bezel to the active position links the crown to the countdown minute hand, allowing the user to program the desired countdown duration (more in our Hands On<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-yachtmaster-ii-regatta-timer-ref-11680/" target=\"_blank\"> from 2015 right here</a>). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Reading The Sky-Dweller Calendar And Time Zone"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Before we get to the Ring Command Bezel's implementation in the Sky-Dweller, let's look at how the time and date are read off. Ideally, an annual calendar will offer some means of reading the month, which is necessary when setting the watch if the annual calendar is to do its thing accurately. The date can be read by checking the windows above the hour markers; since there are 12 months in a year, you can easily tell what month it is from the position of the red month marker. In the watch pictured, the 12th month – December – is indicated by the position of the red month marker at 12:00. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["66b09b55-0cdd-4a20-89e5-9ef653c36249"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["c583d473-1a92-45ed-8b3a-d1b1723b6569"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Reading off home time is straightforward as well; it's show by the rotating 24 hour ring which sits in the lower 2/3 of the dial (the triangle at 12:00 indicates the hour). This has the advantage of also showing whether it's AM or PM at home. The annual calendar is linked to local time, which is shown by the hour hand, so that the date shown (assuming you've set the time correctly forwards or backwards for the new time zone) will be correct for your local time zone.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The overall fit and finish of the dial and case, by the way, is extremely good; even under magnification the dial markers, hands and numbers are all crisply defined, with irreproachable attention to detail. Rolex's case and dial work is as uniformly excellent throughout its product lines as anything in the industry and what's just as important, this excellence is consistent from watch to watch, and contributes greatly to the positive impression Rolex watches generally seem to make. I'm always struck by this whenever I handle one for review – even with Rolex models I wouldn't necessarily wear on a daily basis myself, for reasons of either taste or practicality or cost, the general sense of exceptional build quality one gets is extremely high, from the humblest Oyster Perpetual to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-day-date-36mm-40mm-comparison/" target=\"_blank\">the most opulent Day-Date</a>. One of the most essential ways in which any luxury brand can keep faith with its customers is in paying as much attention to the details in its least expensive products as in its most expensive, and Rolex is one of the very few watch companies I've written about over the years, for which this has always seemed to be true.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Using The Ring Command Bezel On The Sky-Dweller"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The first thing you do when you take possession of a Sky-Dweller is set the time and date. In a watch with an annual calendar and dual time zone display, this would generally involve using some combination of the crown, and case pushers. The Ring Command Bezel is an alternative that allows all indications to be set with a crown that has only one setting position; although the mechanism is quite complex (over sixty additional parts) and requires a brief getting-acquainted period, it's extremely easy to use in practice.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6a62b524-41c1-4f90-b072-7df6a1ce7f36"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>To set the time, you first unscrew the crown and pull it out to the setting position. You then turn the bezel all the way to the left, as far as it will go (about 8:30 on the dial). This stops the second hand and engages hand setting; you can then set the time. In this position the hour hand and the 24 hour ring are kept synchronized.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Once you've set local and home time, you can change local time by unscrewing the crown and setting the bezel in its second position, by turning it to about 9:30. This engages the crown with the setting mechanism for the hour hand alone, which can now be set forwards or backwards in one hour increments (the date will switch at midnight as well, either forwards or backwards as needed). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2b436753-7ef3-4817-a74c-dc537a2034a3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Turn the bezel to the first setting position (about 9:30 on the dial) and you can set the month and date. There's no separate quickset for the month, so you basically just keep turning the crown until the red indicator for the month is at the correct window (it will switch automatically from the 30th to the 1st, in 30 day months) and the correct date is shown.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The system is undoubtedly mechanically complex, but it is quite straightforward and simple in use. You can feel the position of the bezel as you move it thanks to very pleasantly engineered detents at each of the setting positions, and the whole system is not only satisfying to use, but a lot of fun as well, and certainly unlike anything you will find from any other brand. You also get a much cleaner case than you would if there were external pushers for setting the calendar or the local time, and greater ease of use than if you had to use a stylus for recessed pushers.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Road And In Air With The Sky-Dweller"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["38443648-3538-4b2b-8978-57f96eb93df2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>On both occasions that I've had a Sky-Dweller from Rolex for a test drive, I've also been able to take the watch on a test flight – this time, a quick business trip to London. Setting up the watch was very straightforward, and, as I've mentioned, fun as well. As I expected, in steel and white gold the Sky-Dweller feels very different from the frank opulence of the Everose model, and as it's lighter than the all white gold version, it definitely seems less ostentatious. I don't know that the Sky-Dweller would feel particularly utilitarian even in steel-only (though I think it would be great to have an all steel version of the watch) as it's too large, and too brightly polished to ever project the tool-watch bluntness of some other Rolex sports models, but you certainly don't feel as mogul'd up as you would with something in yellow gold or Everose. And of course, the steel and white gold model is almost entirely steel anyway.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Putting on the Rolesor version of the Sky-Dweller was a very different experience from putting on the Everose version I wore for our last Week On The Wrist with this model. As you'd expect, at 42mm in diameter and 14.10mm thick, the Everose version is a relatively heavy watch and a thoroughly luxurious one. The Rolesor version on a bracelet, thanks to its generally less extroverted character, feels to me, and will, I suspect, feel to anyone who travels primarily for business rather than pleasure, much lower key; it's a much less a status-in-the-lounge and more a standing-in-line-at-a-security-checkpoint kind of watch (and I mean that in a good way). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0ad16cac-2cfb-4fc2-aa92-859ffd4d82f0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>That said, it still feels like a luxury watch, but that's very much down to the excellent build quality throughout, rather than any use of luxury materials <i>per se. </i>Combining stainless steel and white gold (when I wore this watch on a late 2017 episode of Friday Live I mistakenly said the middle links and bezel were white gold, which several readers quite rightly corrected; <i>mea culpa</i>) is an intriguing decision, because obviously it's very hard to tell which is which; there's something almost perverse about it. It's not something you have because it does anything in terms of projecting status, but I will say, it is, in a way I didn't expect, nice to know it's there. There is just something a little magical about a bit of gold, be it yellow, white, or Everose.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1e557970-7841-44e2-925d-94892e8c8cbe"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>However, the luxury you get from the white gold and steel Sky-Dweller is largely that of something built and engineered with great care, attention to detail, and precision, not a luxury of materials or a luxury of manually executed decorative techniques.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Just as with the dial, dial furniture and hands, Rolex makes some of the best bracelets in the business; sized to fit my seven inch wrist, the Sky-Dweller was immediately comfortable and the visual impact of the electric-blue dial made it very enjoyable to wear. I generally like to re-set the time on my watch a few hours before landing, to just sort of get used to the idea of being in a different time zone gradually. In theory, you would think that recalling which of the bezel positions is used for re-setting local time might be difficult – one of my first thoughts on getting reacquainted with the Sky-Dweller was that some sort of function indicator would be nice – but in reality, I didn't have any problem, even in the bleary dimness of a redeye flight cabin, remembering that two clicks to the left was correct. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fca49d9d-3b84-41af-9814-316bccfbe179"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The reality is that once the watch is set up, you're just not going to have to touch the Ring Command Bezel that often, which given how enjoyable it is to use is almost a shame. You'll need to remember that position 2 is for resetting the local time when you fly, and you'll also need to remember that position 1 is for setting the date when you get to the end of February, but that's once a year. And, obviously, the only time you'll use position 3 is if for some reason you haven't worn the watch for longer than 72 hours and you need to re-set the time. You probably won't have to do that very often, either, at least not if your Sky-Dweller performs like mine – over a week and a half it gained maybe half a second a day, if that.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"right_rail"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ac0463b9-9421-4e77-ae2a-6ca434a36b12"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Interestingly enough, there are not many annual calendar watches with GMT complications out there, which is perhaps not surprising given the fact that the annual calendar is itself a somewhat rare complication (there are actually significantly fewer annual than perpetual calendars on the market in any given year). With a white gold bezel and steel case and bracelet, the Sky-Dweller is $14,400; a competing watch from Blancpain is the Villeret Annual Calendar GMT (our Hands On <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/blancpain-annual-calendar-gmt-steel-hands-on/" target=\"_blank\">is right here</a>) which in steel and on a steel bracelet is $23,700. The Sky-Dweller, of the two, is the larger watch (the Blancpain is 11.04mm x 40mm) and certainly the more outgoing of the two and if you like interacting with a machine that revels in its machine-ness, the Sky-Dweller's your baby. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I liked the Everose Sky-Dweller on a strap and it would not be painful to wear it on a daily basis at all, but the steel and white gold version feels less like a celebration of status or achievement, and more like a trusted ally in the endless battle against disorientation and jet lag. In any case, I don't think the Sky-Dweller really has any competition, at least not as an apples-to-apples comparison – the design, implementation of the annual calendar and second time zone display, and of course, the Ring Command Bezel all put it in a class of one.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>The Rolex Sky-Dweller Ref. 326934: case and bracelet, 904L steel with white gold bezel, 42mm x 14.01mm, water resistant to 100 meters. Sapphire crystal with date cyclops. Movement, Rolex in-house caliber 9001 with center seconds, minutes and hours; independently settable hour hand and home time indication by 24 hour ring; annual calendar. Setting via the crown, controlled by Ring Command bezel, with 72 hour power reserve. More information, as well as an </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rolex.com/watches/baselworld/new-sky-dweller/m326933-0001.html/" target=\"_blank\"><i>interactive setting guide, at Rolex.com.</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"f51f5fde-6327-4b1c-87e8-7dee2fde98ed","container_id":5124,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1514925170182-adpo89wbcec-f61ed8d909caecf3a38b8d9d8e1232a0/hero.jpg","width":4994,"height":2809,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2018-01-02T16:05:49.653-05:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:10:40.500-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1514925170182-adpo89wbcec-f61ed8d909caecf3a38b8d9d8e1232a0/hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-sky-dweller-stainless-steel-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Rolex Sky-Dweller In Stainless Steel","tags":[]},{"id":4929,"slug":"cartier-tank-americaine-steel-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Cartier Tank Américaine In Steel","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-11-14T13:18:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2017-11-01T14:08:58.266-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:30.278-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>Going back to basics for the Tank's 100th birthday.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":146521,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":"CARTIERROUNDUP","apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Anniversary watches are a difficult breed. Contemporary watchmakers have a tendency to use any birthday ending in a \"5\" or a \"0\" as an excuse to create some dolled-up version of a well-known (or sometimes not-so-well-known) product as a way to manufacture demand, scarcity, and press. I often find that these watches leave me cold when taken on their own, and feeling disappointed when they interrupt an otherwise interesting and compelling history.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Imagine my concern when it was announced in January that sometime this year we would be getting a collection of watches celebrating the 100th anniversary of the Cartier Tank. This is no 45th birthday and no \"I think I've heard of that\" watch. The stakes seemed pretty high, as far as watch-related stakes are concerned. The Tank is one of the most iconic watches of all time, and I do not use that word lightly here. I also do not think it would be an understatement at all to say that the Tank turning 100 is an event of genuine interest and importance in the history of the wristwatch writ large.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So, I waited. Then, on September 1, the announcement was made. We were getting a handful of new Tanks for the centennial, including <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-tank-louis-cartier-anniversary/" target=\"_blank\">a few with diamonds</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-tank-cintree-skeleton-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">one with a curved, skeletonized movement</a>. But the one that really caught my eye was the most understated of them all: the Tank Américaine in stainless steel. Would this turn out to be the subtle anniversary watch I was hoping for? Would it have the right little historical nods while being a quality ticker in its own right? Would it feel like something I would want beyond the context of the Tank turning 100? Just a few weeks later I had one on my wrist, and I got to answer all my own questions.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But first, some history.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A History Of Curved Tanks"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["811be6a2-a4cc-4f3e-a250-ff9e0f4d7754"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Tank watch was first introduced in 1917, hence this year's centenary celebration. That original watch was a rectangular watch, nearly square like its cousin the Santos, with large rails (sometimes called <i>brancards</i>, the French for \"stretcher\") on either side of the Roman numeral dial, and a design that was, at the time, unlike anything else out there. Quickly, Cartier began to iterate on the Tank, creating different sub-families of Tank watches with different profiles, different dial variations, and different histories.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4b1ecfc0-50ae-4534-9900-60b65404482e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A big moment in the Tank's history came in 1921, with the introduction of the Tank Cintrée (which literally means \"curved\"). This was the very first time the Tank had a curved case, something that has been a mainstay of the collection ever since. Let's remember that in 1921 the concept of the wristwatch was still a new and somewhat controversial one, and non-round wristwatches were still rare. Now, a <i>curved</i>, rectangular watch? Think about it. What seems elegant and traditional to us today was actually revolutionary. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["2050b614-9fec-4b31-843f-665aa2e95808"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In addition to introducing the curved case, the Cintrée also displayed a new kind of dial too. The chapter ring was curved on the ends to echo the curvature of the case, and this left a lot more negative space in the dial, making the Roman numerals really stand out, drawing the eye out to the edge and the case.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>While the Tank is, at its core, a rectangular watch, it's not always that same basic shape that probably pops into your head when you first think \"Tank.\" There are Tanks that swivel in their cases, that are asymmetrical, and that use jump-hour displays. Check out Franco Cologni's book <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.amazon.com/Cartier-Watch-Franco-Cologni-1998-01-15/dp/B01K3O1VAA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509569525&sr=8-3&keywords=the+tank+watch+cologni\%22 target=\"_blank\"><i>Cartier: The Tank Watch</i></a> if you want to learn more. </p>","title":"Variations On A Theme","images":["51a1737c-895f-4daf-b888-d68c5d609fdb"],"alignment":"left"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>All of this isn't to say that the Cintrée was a runaway hit from day one, never faltering though. In fact, after an explosion in popularity in the early 1920s (the Cintrée was <i>the</i> watch to have in Parisian society then), it was dropped from the line-up altogether sometime in the early 1930s. According to Franco Cologni in his comprehensive book <i>Cartier The Tank Watch: Timeless Style</i>, it was \"considered too '1925'\" by then. Luckily, Cartier New York brought the watch back with an Americanized version with Arabic numerals, called the Curved Tank in 1933. Eventually the Cintrée proper would be resurrected in Europe, bringing back the more classic dial style and slightly wider profile.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>We're going to jump forward in history a bit now. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-mansion-history-pearls-plant/" target=\"_blank\">Plenty happened with Cartier and the Tank</a> during the middle part of the twentieth century, and the stack of books I have next to me as I write this is proof that trying to give you an exhaustive history of every Tank variation and every little bit of apocrypha here would be a lost cause. So, on we forge to the introduction of the Tank Américaine in 1989.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["64274835-290c-4e8b-8484-b8e31ec2a351","6f621693-c2bc-46ae-a679-f9ffa1988837"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Originally created in just yellow gold, the Tank Américaine was a response to the changing tides of watch trends. The late 1980s and early 1990s were the beginning of the era of large watches, and Cartier was trying to create something a bit more substantial that might convince someone looking for a heftier piece to wear a Tank instead. The watch was clearly inspired by the Cintrée of old, with its curved case and curved chapter ring, but it differed in a number of ways. One important distinction is that the reverse of the case has a flat (or flat-ish) caseback instead of the dramatically curved caseback of the Cintrée. The result is a watch that still appears curved while being technically easier to manufacture, though you do feel the difference on the wrist a bit.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"<p>What seems elegant and traditional to us today was actually revolutionary. </p>","source":""},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Since then, the Américaine has been made in many different versions, with date functions, chronographs, and other complications included from time to time. However, these have always been made in precious metals, most often yellow and pink gold (white gold models weren't introduced until 1995, the same year Cartier added the option of a bracelet to the Américaine).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["f89af67e-557c-4f01-adee-69a9625d9018"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Some of the most collectable and desirable Tanks from over the years – Cintrée and otherwise – are white metal versions. These are exceedingly rare, with many models existing only in platinum in single-digit numbers. So it feels fitting that to commemorate 100 years of the Tank, Cartier would take an important model and render it in a white metal. Choosing the Américaine, the most modern Tank silhouette inspired by one of the oldest, and making it in steel, takes it to the next level.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Tank Américaine In Steel"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["62c10a72-cdb7-4958-ac7e-7b36f628f1e2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now onto the watch in question. This is the Tank Américaine, and it is in stainless steel for the very first time. It's also at a much more approachable price point, sitting at $5,100 as you see it here. Up until now, the Américaine has been made in precious metals only, placing it at a far higher price point and making it less of an everyday watch. There are three sizes of the new steel model available, with the small containing a quartz movement, and both the medium and large containing an automatic movement. I opted to review the medium, as it suits my wrist size best. For the most part, everything you read here applies to the large as well, though the proportions are a little bit different. The large model is a little wider, which to my eye isn't quite as elegant as the elongated medium form, despite being closer to the original Tank Américaine proportions (with the medium being more Cintrée-like). However, again, that's down to personal preference. Technically and structurally speaking, the two are identical.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Case"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1bbac70e-dae0-43d1-b05a-ffea132ce9a4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As with any watch, the case is critical here; but, more so than with most watches, the case is one of this watch's biggest distinguishing features and most compelling selling points. First off, it's stainless steel. The medium size measures 41.6mm x 22.6mm, while the smaller model comes in at 34.8mm x 19mm ($4,000) and the larger at 45.1mm x 26.6mm ($5,750). To me, the result is a watch that works for both men and women, nodding a bit to vintage sizes without appearing dainty.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Cartier's done a nice job adding interest to what could have been a rather plain design too. The brushed sides and polished rails give the edges visual definition, making the watch appear much punchier and better defined. A single finish would have resulted in something that looked sort of amorphous and, for lack of a better term, blobby. The case we have looks extremely architectural, with the intersecting sections of the case creating points of interest where they meet.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["887ea4fe-1196-4fef-b040-062d0ab38ffa"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now, look at the watch from the side. You really get a sense of the curvature and how nicely balanced it is. Then there's the crown, with the quintessentially Cartier look of a blue stone set into geometric metal. However, it's worth noting that here it's a synthetic spinel cabochon looking back at you, not a sapphire. Considering the price of this watch and what a real sapphire would add, I can't argue with this decision at all. If the watch were platinum, we'd be having a different conversation, but Cartier made the right call here.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1560b79c-15f7-4982-9b39-048df3c98973"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of the stand-out design traits of the Cintrée has traditionally been its curved caseback that gives the watch a completely crescent-shaped profile. That's not the case with the Américaine. If you look here, you'll notice that the curved front portion of the case is anchored by a caseback that is flat but with curved sides that rise up to meet the case itself. To accommodate the automatic movement here, the caseback itself has some depth, but you notice it much more on a table than on the wrist.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In total, the package comes in at 9.5mm thick at the center, the thickest point. While the watch doesn't wear like an ultra-thin – or a vintage Cintrée, for that matter – it does have a relatively svelte profile that is in good proportion to its size. Finally, while you probably won't be taking this watch diving (and you shouldn't, for a lot of reasons), the Tank Américaine is water resistant to three bars of pressure, or approximately 30 meters.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b020bcb9-e7e7-40c7-87fd-278c79496a26"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Once you get past the basic form, there's the brilliant sunburst-finish dial waiting for you. All the things you'd expect are there and intact – the black radiating Roman numerals, the \"Cartier\" signature hidden in the number seven, and the chapter ring that curves at the top and bottom. You'll notice though that there are three blued steel hands instead of the more traditional two. This is to show the running seconds, as there's an automatic movement beating away inside.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e17f75eb-9441-420a-ac60-a749f00a8418"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Another point of differentiation here is the finish of the dial. There is no guilloché center or contrasting outer edge. No, the entire thing has a uniform sunray finish on the silvery ground. While I'm a sucker for some good guilloché work, I much prefer this cleaner execution for a watch like this. It keeps it from feeling too much like a throwback and the even surface allows the bold black printing to stand out and the blue hands to be instantly legible.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["17f32b1a-6468-4411-8c67-6341c3a30efd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As I mentioned, this watch is automatic. This is a mixed bag for me. I'm thrilled that the watch isn't quartz (except in the smallest size). That would have been a really easy thing for Cartier to do, and, to be totally honest, most customers looking at this watch probably wouldn't even notice or care. However, I do wish the watch was a manual-winder. There would be something <i>so</i> charming about taking this off and carefully winding it every day or two. Just thinking about it gets me excited.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Ultimately, I'm going to count the automatic movement as a win. Cartier isn't providing any details on the movement inside, but from the dimensions of the case we know it's got to be one that's relatively small. Beyond the fact that it's automatic and has a central seconds hand, I'm as in the dark as you are.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Update: Though Cartier has not confirmed this, we have it on good authority that the unnamed movement in question is an ETA 2671. This is a 17.2mm diameter automatic with 25 jewels and a 38-hour power reserve. It's nothing fancy, but it's a small, reliable movement well-suited to a watch like this.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Strap And Buckle"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c98039a0-d948-4b90-a51b-ebac9b882049"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The strap and buckle for this watch are a bit unusual. When you first pick the watch up, you'll notice that there are no holes at all on either side of the strap. You've got two identical pieces of rich blue alligator, each of which has a semi-matte finish and comes to a point at the end. Accompanying the watch is a steel folding buckle in the shape of the familiar Cartier logo. I legitimately had to ask one of my colleagues (shout out Cara!) how the heck to get this on my wrist. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ea60ea94-33e5-41dd-8cae-c423e13cfdad"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Essentially you thread the two sides of the strap through two parts of the buckle, loop them back to lock it all in, and then wear-away. This makes it infinitely adjustable on both sides, so you can get the right fit. I had some reservations about this idiosyncratic system when I first pulled the Tank out of its packaging, but more on that in a bit (spoiler alert: it's great).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A Week On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["46a30832-e0ca-4f18-8339-4c7cef7189b2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It probably won't surprise you, but from the moment I strapped the Tank Américaine to my wrist, I was smitten. There aren't too many designs that can go relatively unchanged for 100 years while remaining relevant, but I challenge anyone to put a Tank on their wrist and tell me that it's stale or ugly. Sure, it might not be everyone's personal taste, but from as objective a perspective as is possible, the Tank is a well-designed wristwatch through and through.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a575f2a4-6764-44d6-843a-e8eb33d59992"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Américaine case sits extremely well on the wrist. In the medium size, it's not so small as to feel precious (at least not on my wrist – and there's a size up if you're worried about that) but it still sits <i>on</i> the wrist, without hanging over. I find rectangular watches tend to suffer from the overhang problem that makes them feel clumsy and ungainly. No such problem here. Also, while the back of the watch isn't curved like with the Cintrée, the way the caseback and lugs create some negative space on the rear of the watch makes it wear almost like it is curved. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"<p>There aren't too many designs that can go relatively unchanged for 100 years while remaining relevant...</p>","source":""},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In addition to the steel case making it a little more robust, it also makes this model much lighter in weight than its gold counterparts. There's enough heft that you know you've got a mechanical movement inside (I find even the gold quartz Tank watches feel a little light on my wrist), but I wore the watch all day, every day for a week and had zero comfort issues. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bb66fc8f-0ef4-4575-9ca1-34ae5810da14"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>However, I had two concerns right off the bat: 1) That the folding clasp would prove to be a pain point (literally) and 2) That the watch would look a little too dressy for my daily life. I'm happy to report that neither of these was a problem in reality. The folding clasp shocked me – I'm a known detractor of the deployant buckle and champion of the simple pin. While setting up the strap and buckle takes a few minutes, once you've got it all set, the package wears like it has a pin buckle. I'd be just as happy without the special clasp, but it's there and I didn't mind it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["01dc6856-d540-4e62-8638-66e8be695a94"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The second question is another subjective one, but I think the Américaine straddles the dressy/casual line much better than I expected. I wore it to a few meetings in a suit, for a night out with my wife in a sportcoat, and to the office with a classic grey sweatshirt, and it never felt out of place to me. It's definitely more at home with something tailored (or at least a cashmere sweater), but there's something that feels very old-school preppy about wearing a Tank with casual wear that I enjoyed. I'll go right out and say it: To me, this qualifies as an everyday watch. No question in my mind.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["57bafeeb-4bcf-4c4b-9225-650e09591f4a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you're with me so far, there's one big question left to answer: What else is out there? To me, this relatively generic question can carry massively different connotations depending on what type of watch you're talking about. In the case of the Tank Américaine, I think the task at hand is finding what watches are available that mix traditional and modern styling, sell for $4,500-6,500, and have a bit of history to lean on. Here are a few that come to mind.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Medium Thin"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["c8672e5a-8416-4f5a-938b-95debfa2a80a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The most obvious competitor to any Tank is a similar Reverso. The <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/us/en/watches/reverso/reverso-classic-medium-thin-monoface-manuel/2548520.html/" target=\"_blank\">Reverso Classic Medium Thin</a> is probably the closest thing Jaeger-LeCoultre makes to the Tank Américaine right now. It's about the same size, has a silver dial with blue hands, and has a slim mechanical movement inside (this one is manually-wound, FYI). At $5,300, it's a hair less expensive than the Tank, but not by much. To me, the question here is one of style and by now you've probably already decided which you prefer.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Grand Seiko SBGW253"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["2da78953-b1ed-411b-8bb2-998926134435"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Alright, it's not rectangular, but I think the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://grand-seiko.us.com/collections/SBGW253//" target=\"_blank\">Grand Seiko SBGW253</a> ticks a lot of the same boxes as the Tank Américaine. It also comes in at a similar price point, retailing for $5,700 (if you can still find one – it's a limited edition of 1960 pieces). The watch has an elegant profile, a modestly-sized 38mm case, and a clean, legible dial. The mix of white, silver, and blue verges on austere without quite getting there, and if you swap out the black croc strap it can wear much more casually than you'd expect.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Others?"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Other than these two watches, I struggled to come up with good alternatives to this Tank. Some of that is due to what I believe is the genuine strength of the design and the relative uniqueness of what it's offering in the marketplace; some of it is down to the dearth of rectangular watches available today, since they tend to sell far worse than round watches. If you think I've missed anything, let me know in the comments below. I'm genuinely curious to see what you come up with.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["34d22cc0-062c-402e-9092-8630ef0a770b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you couldn't tell already, I'll come out and say it flat out: The stainless steel Tank Américaine is an excellent watch. Like, a <i>really</i> excellent watch. It's well-made and well-priced, and it balances historic design with adding something new to the portfolio. It's a watch that I think a lot of people could make their only watch, while being equally appealing to someone who is a collector of vintage or modern watches, with more than a few options for what to strap on each morning. I'll even go as far as to say that this is one of my favorite watches of the year so far. It's just that good.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Zooming out a bit, the Tank Américaine makes me happy for other reasons too. It's proof that celebrating an iconic watch's birthday doesn't need to be done with a pile of diamonds or a handful of tourbillons to be successful. For a watch as refined as the Tank, marking its centennial with something like this seems a much more fitting tribute – and one that will ensure the Tank is as relevant come its 150th anniversary as it is today.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.cartier.com//" target=\"_blank\">visit Cartier online</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"416d6e01-38a2-4904-9abd-a3fa8614992c","container_id":4929,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1509559514296-8145dnftmex-700407e91a434bc7c54a511305024142/IMG_2731.JPG","width":2048,"height":1152,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2017-11-01T14:08:58.358-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:11:15.200-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1509559514296-8145dnftmex-700407e91a434bc7c54a511305024142/IMG_2731.JPG?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-tank-americaine-steel-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Cartier Tank Américaine In Steel","tags":[]},{"id":4832,"slug":"grand-seiko-spring-drive-snowflake-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Grand Seiko Spring Drive Snowflake SBGA211","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-10-11T13:13:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-10-09T16:09:37.405-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:30.570-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>The Spring Drive Snowflake is a major Seiko fan favorite for a reason.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":468541,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA011 is better known to Grand Seiko fans simply as the \"Snowflake,\" and it's probably the single most iconic model for Grand Seiko Spring Drive, having been first introduced in 2010 (hard to believe). In the seven years since its release it's become a huge fan favorite, and a much-lauded critics' darling as well, with praise lavished on its unique dial, and the general fit and finish so characteristic of Grand Seiko as well. Interestingly, Grand Seiko has never offered this dial with any other movement than Spring Drive and in fact, the characteristics of the Spring Drive movement are essential to the overall impact of the watch as a whole – with a conventional automatic movement, or with a conventional quartz movement, this would be a very different experience on the wrist, in perhaps subtle but unmistakable ways. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d51eb61c-c3ca-455f-8787-5723e71804b3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are really two parts to the Snowflake story: one is the aesthetics in general, and the other is the Spring Drive movement. The Snowflake is a very calmness-inducing watch – the subtle play of light on the dial, with its resemblance to a field of newly fallen, lightly drifted snow, and the silent, smooth glide of the blued steel seconds hand, combine to give a feeling of time flowing uninterruptedly, but also unhurriedly, and one seems to see time almost from a timeless perspective, as one is supposed to when deeply absorbed in meditation. By contrast, a mechanical watch presents time as a series of oscillations – the frequency of the balance is visible in the stuttering forward motion of the seconds hand, which jumps forward once per swing of the balance as the escape wheel unlocks.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_left"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A quartz watch works somewhat differently. The quartz crystal vibrates 32,768 times per second; it does so because quartz is a piezoelectric material – that is, it deforms mechanically when you pass an electric current through it. Piezoelectric materials also generate electricity when they're mechanically deformed, which means you can easily count the number of times per second the crystal is vibrating (you just count the number of electrical pulses it generates). The frequency is chosen for a simple reason: 32,768 is the fifteenth power of two, and by dividing the pulses from the crystal by two repeatedly, you can easily get a one second interval. The integrated circuit that does the division, then signals a stepper motor to advance the seconds hand one increment. This one second jump was characteristic of the long-obsolete duplex escapement, a variation of which was much used for watches for the Chinese market in the 19th century; in <i>Watchmaking, </i>George Daniels remarked, \"This system was once held in high esteem by the Chinese who despised crawling seconds hands on their watches.\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["44c6d702-b236-44c4-851f-d1b16b94a7a7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is merely to point out that the action of the seconds hand naturally tends to become an important part of our perception of both the flow of time, and of the character of a wristwatch. This is so much the case, that a watch that beats dead seconds – a so-called deadbeat seconds complication – is often despised by mechanical watch enthusiasts, who find it too reminiscent of a quartz watch (even the Rolex name was not enough to make the complication commercially successful, as witness the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-restoration-of-a-rolex-tru-beat-caliber-1040-reference-6556/" target=\"_blank\">obscurity of the Rolex Tru-Beat</a>). Very high frequency quartz watches can give the illusion of smooth continuous movement, as can high-beat mechanical watches, but Spring Drive is the only wristwatch technology with true continuous forward motion.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Evolution Of Spring Drive"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As with any basic advance in timekeeping technology, the Spring Drive had a long and sometimes painful gestation. The original idea was pioneered by Yoshikazu Akahane, an engineer at Seiko Epson in Shiojiri, Nagano Prefecture (now called the Shinshu Watch Studio to reflect its concentration on Grand Seiko Spring Drive and Grand Seiko quartz watches; it's also the home of the Micro Artist Studio, where high end Spring Drive watches like the Eichi II and Credor chiming complications are made). Akahane began experimenting with the idea in the late 1970s (the date usually given is 1977 or so) and the first patents were issued for the concept in 1982. However, it was not until 20 years had passed that Seiko presented the movement publicly, at Baselworld in 1997. In 1998, the first commercially available Spring Drive watches were released.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ac9555fa-051b-442c-9ecf-2f7bab16eee3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are several reasons that it took so long. A Spring Drive movement has a quartz oscillator in it, but there the resemblance ends between it and a conventional quartz watch. A quartz watch has a battery; Spring Drive does not, and moreover, a quartz watch may or may not have hands – as HODINKEE Editor-at-Large Joe Thompson notes, many of the earliest <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/four-revolutions-quartz-revolution/" target=\"_blank\">commercially successful quartz watches were digital, not analogue</a> – while in Spring Drive the hands are essential (there's no way to build a digital display Spring Drive watch). Spring Drive watches, moreover, are powered by mainsprings; there is no equivalent in quartz watchmaking. The closest relatives are probably Seiko's Kinetic and the Swiss Autoquartz calibers, but these are standard quartz watches with the addition of a rotor-driven micro-generator that tops up a rechargeable battery. In fact, a Spring Drive watch is indistinguishable technically from any other mechanical watch, right up to where the escape wheel would be in a standard watch movement.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["63786de7-837f-409b-a514-ab97b014d10c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Where the escape wheel, lever, and balance would be in a conventional watch, we find instead what Seiko calls the Tri-Synchro Regulator. \"Tri\" refers to the three types of energy present in the regulating system: magnetic, from the glide wheel; mechanical; from the mainspring; and electrical, from the quartz crystal. The last gear in the going train turns the so-called glide wheel, which has at its hub a permanent magnet. This turns between two electromagnets located at one end of a pair of wire-wrapped coils and the whole thing functions as an electrical generator (the glide wheel acting as the rotor) in accordance with Faraday's Law, which says that a conductor moving in a magnetic field will generate a current. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The current generated goes to an integrated circuit and quartz crystal, which vibrates as the current passes through it, and the IC counts the oscillations. However, rather than dividing by two until a one second interval is counted off, and then sending a signal to a stepper motor, the IC passes energy back to the electromagnets surrounding the glide wheel. Here electrical energy becomes magnetic force, and this exerts a braking energy on the glide wheel; the amount of electrical energy fed back is precisely controlled so that the glide wheel turns eight times a second exactly. Thus, the glide wheel ensures that the mainspring unwinds in a controlled fashion, in the same way that the escape wheel, lever, and balance (and balance spring) of a conventional watch control the rate at which the mainspring unwinds. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["7fd2fcd6-1fb0-4a0f-8a3d-033329ff7537","7f85d972-69b0-4183-affd-da9c8c4db703"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In essence, therefore, Spring Drive movements are mechanical, but with an electromagnetic escapement regulated by a quartz oscillator. One of the reasons development of Spring Drive took so long, is because the amount of energy generated is extremely tiny. To be usable in a commercial watch, it was necessary to develop a special low-energy-consumption integrated circuit, and as well, the coils had to be wound with very thin copper wire, in order to ensure the maximum number of turns around the coil itself. For this purpose, a special type of wire was developed with an hexagonal cross section, allowing the coils to be wound with no gaps – not even microscopic ones – between the turns of the wire, which means greater total length in a given volume. You can actually see the difference between the coils used for Seiko Kinetic watches (which have batteries charged by a mechanical rotor) and Spring Drive coils with the naked eye; during our recent trip to Shiojiri we were able to photograph the two coils side by side.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9d0c70c1-f623-4616-a05d-d7918182726b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The amount of electrical energy generated is extremely minute; one way of visualizing it is to imagine everyone on Earth wearing a Spring Drive watch. Were this to be the case, the resulting electrical energy would be just barely enough to light one 100 watt light bulb. In order to have an acceptable power reserve, the entire system has to work extremely efficiently, which is why it was necessary to develop a new coil system, as well as the high efficiency integrated circuit. The mechanical train has to be manufactured and assembled to a very high degree of precision as well, in order to reduce frictional losses to an absolute minimum (this is an easy thing to miss about Spring Drive but for them to work, they have to be high precision mechanical watches as well as advanced technology platforms).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["355cc23f-29eb-4179-a7c5-55afa095e4ab"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The question is often asked, \"isn't Spring Drive a quartz watch?\" It's not, at least not in the sense we usually think of quartz watches. The electromechanical drive system in Spring Drive is regulated by a quartz crystal, yes; however, there are so many fundamental differences between Spring Drive and quartz watches as a class, that it really is a different technology. Ultimately, Spring Drive isn't really a mechanical watch in the ordinary sense of the word, but it's not a quartz watch either – it's Spring Drive.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["c0ba2d5d-467f-4956-ba9b-b03201a0a22c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["2bdcf3cc-b71b-4455-b535-0c58a5c4fbde"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Snowflake Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Snowflake dial has a texture that's generally compared to that of freshly fallen snow but it's not really a literal representation of a snow field, of course – it's not really a literal representation of anything, which is part of the reason that it's so compelling. It has something of a lot of different things – the texture of water color paper, or a rice paper screen, for instance – and the fact that it doesn't lend itself to identification with anything in particular, means that it's going to look and feel different for everyone. This is also very Japanese – so much of the aesthetics in traditional Japanese culture are about what you leave out, as much as what you put in.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["21dfa5d6-8342-4506-a7b2-f4a8434a3ab2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A dial is not a washed-ink brush painting, of course, but in this instance some of the same aesthetic criteria are at play. The composition has to be balanced but not static, and negative space has to be offset by just enough contrasting elements to keep things dynamic without becoming cluttered. The single most important element on the dial compositionally in terms of providing a dynamic element is the power reserve, which is located and executed in such a way as to break up both the surface texture of the dial – which otherwise might seem a bit too monotonous – and balance the presence of the date window. Another big part of the appeal of the dial, of course, are the contrasting textures – the diamond-bright reflective surfaces of the hands against the snowflake dial surface, with the blued steel seconds hand gliding silently across the whole thing. One of the most appealing aspects of the watch is that its design elements don't give the impression of particularly striving to create an effect; it seems natural and effortless.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d38f0f3b-f127-40cd-aa8a-ab39b94d1794","57043d29-853b-4063-8cad-a6887166e7f7"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["83e70054-247b-4df1-9917-4de75a53d766"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The creation of the dial is a multi-stage process, involving stamping the initial pattern onto a dial blank, and then adding successive layers of coating to create the subtle translucency of the final dial. The indexes for Grand Seiko watches are cut with a diamond-edged rotary cutting tool, overseen by a technician who manually operates the cutting machine, and who uses a small hand mirror to make sure the index surfaces reflect the light in the desired fashion. Once the lettering is printed, the markers applied, and the date window surround inserted, the dial's ready to become part of the watch. The creation of a Snowflake dial is very labor intensive, but no less so than many of the other dial making processes at the Shinshu Watch Studio in Shiojiri; the amount of hand-work that goes into dials, hands, and markers is extensive, and the result is the very high quality, in Grand Seikos across the board, for which Grand Seiko is famous.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bc4e235e-0eb8-4195-bd88-331aec208586"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"images":["d6dd0d00-112f-4eb1-8d84-c2be4eef3e8f","22308786-e196-47a9-9147-05438d3a014f","19ecf36a-b4f7-47d7-aef6-17ad94b5b3fd","c10c684e-181a-4674-a117-7667425877fe","3d5202b6-9331-4a58-b26e-bd7074a2d736"]},"type":"Block::SlideshowImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As we said at the outset, the Spring Drive Snowflake SBGA211 is a very steadying watch to wear. The entire thing seems to have been calculated to create an effect of serenity without boredom; of minimalism without sterility. On the most basic level, wearing it is an exercise in experiencing a watch that absolutely fulfills the most basic social contract of a watch, and a watchmaker, with an owner: it is instantly readable, delivers all information with absolute clarity, is extremely accurate, and is useful and usable under just about any conditions you could reasonably expect it to meet. Not only are there no compromises made with functionality, functionality is actively pursued as a goal meaningful in itself and again, this achievement of an aesthetic effect through the pursuit of functionality, without a desire to create an effect <i>per se, </i>is pervasive in traditional Japanese culture – perhaps nowhere more iconically than in the Japanese sword. The most basic question for the <i>katana </i>is not \"how does it look,\" but rather \"does it work?\" but how it looks, of course, is a direct result of how it's made to work as exceptionally well as it does. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d771380f-4055-4152-85a1-fc3c1855b545"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is the year that Grand Seiko became a separate Seiko brand from Seiko overall<i>, </i>which means that the Snowflake now no longer has the Seiko logo at 12:00. The Grand Seiko logo has been shifted from its former position at 6:00 up to the 12:00 position, and as a result the whole dial is much less cluttered – the degree to which \"Seiko Grand Seiko\" watches seemed a bit redundant always varied quite a bit from model to model but for the Snowflake, I think the change is a definite improvement and really gives the dial a sense of repose that it didn't quite have before.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["1555fa05-8a71-40ee-99bc-cec1e16822e7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Wearing the Snowflake is also an exercise in achieving irreproachable functionality. The case and bracelet are Seiko's \"High Intensity\" titanium, which has the lightness, comfort, and hypoallergenicity of titanium but with much better scratch resistance. Despite the brightly polished case bevels and bezel, you don't wear this watch with any concern about inflicting noticeable scratches on it, and despite its somewhat large-for-Grand-Seiko diameter (the case is 41mm x 12.5mm) it remains extremely comfortable to wear – adjusted for a slightly snug fit on my seven inch wrist, it became almost unnoticeable, unless I happened to need to check the time or date.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["32a2624e-f000-4661-8924-a9b53ff0e9ff","3695b056-0806-46e5-9912-59872461aac1"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In terms of competition, this is a particularly interesting year at this price point, with a number of manufacturers going out of their way to offer watches as attractive as possible at $6,000 or less – so much so that we didn't find it difficult at all to round up several of them <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/five-watches-under-6000-dollars-watch-enthusiast/" target=\"_blank\">in a quick survey last July</a>. The lineup includes Tudor's first chronograph with the new Breitling-supplied movement; the always-reliable Rolex Oyster Perpetual, and of course, the Snowflake itself. However, in a very real sense, the Spring Drive Snowflake doesn't have competition – at least, not in the sense of competing with other watches that use a similar technical approach. Christopher Walken is supposed to have said, \"I've been lucky in my career in that, in Hollywood, if you want a Christopher Walken type, you pretty much have to hire Christopher Walken.\" In the same vein, if you want a Spring Drive, you pretty much have to get a Spring Drive; there's no almost-a-Spring-Drive.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I think that at the current price (SBGA211 is $5,800), this is one of the most satisfying watches out there right now. Yes, it's as objectively excellent in its pursuit of practical benefits to the owner as you could ask. Accuracy is rated officially by Seiko to one second per day but anecdotally Grand Seiko Spring Drive owners generally note accuracy that's much better – often, an order of magnitude better. It's easy to wear day in and day out; and reading the time couldn't be a more instantaneous affair – even in very low light situations, where you'd think some sort of luminous material to be indispensable, thanks to the beveled and highly reflective surfaces on the hands and indexes, telling the time is a snap. At the same time, however, you can also approach and appreciate the watch in terms of what it represents technically. Spring Drive takes a bit of time to understand, but it's well worth the effort in terms of seeing just how different it is from both conventional quartz and standard mechanical watches, and if you find technical achievement and innovation in independent timekeeping interesting (that is, not radio time signal or GPS controlled) Spring Drive is one of the most interesting developments since quartz itself was introduced by Seiko in 1969.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["3f57731d-7f96-4d4e-9140-d15c428e6cc5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Where the Snowflake really wins hearts and minds, though, and where it's been winning hearts and minds for nearly a decade, is in its design and aesthetics. The degree of excellence in fit and finish you rightly expect from Grand Seiko is a big part of that, but as with any really successful design object, the whole is a lot more than the sum of its parts and as a design object with a uniquely Japanese heart, the Spring Drive Snowflake is deservedly a perennial Grand Seiko fan favorite. Grand Seiko is known in the watch enthusiast world as an icon of quality, and within the Grand Seiko family, the Snowflake particularly stands out, as a highly successful integration of the many qualities that make Grand Seiko so appealing – an icon's icon, if you will.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>The Grand Seiko Spring Drive \"Snowflake\" SBGA211: as shown, on \"Brightman\" high intensity titanium bracelet, $5,800. Case, Brightman titanium, 41mm x 12.5mm, with Zaratsu polishing. Movement, Grand Seiko Spring Drive caliber 9R65, 72-hour power reserve. Rated to ±1 second maximum deviation per day. Find out more at </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://grand-seiko.us.com/collections/SBGA211//" target=\"_blank\"><i>grand-seiko.us.com</i></a><i>.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"d35e80ad-082c-4d0a-b83f-777417ad7e3d","container_id":4832,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1507578675913-ypnk2f7p3-d327a1406c813cdb0648820a798176d2/hero.jpg","width":5760,"height":3240,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2017-10-09T16:09:37.468-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:11:33.641-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1507578675913-ypnk2f7p3-d327a1406c813cdb0648820a798176d2/hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/grand-seiko-spring-drive-snowflake-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Grand Seiko Spring Drive Snowflake SBGA211","tags":[]},{"id":4795,"slug":"tag-heuer-autavia-2017-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The TAG Heuer Autavia 2017","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-10-05T13:58:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-09-25T13:37:41.711-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:30.761-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>Make no mistake, this is a thoroughly modern watch.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106661978001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":127755,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>On my first official day here at HODINKEE, I walked into the office to find a surprise waiting for me. After I had a chance to settle in at my desk, Stephen handed me an unexpected treat: a watch that I had wanted to get on my wrist ever since it was announced in late 2016. He then asked me to wear it for seven consecutive days and deliver my impressions for one of my first HODINKEE articles. How could I say no? A few weeks later, here is A Week on the Wrist with the TAG Heuer Autavia 2017 – officially known as the Heuer Heritage Caliber Heuer 02.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There were qualities about the new Autavia that piqued my interest from the very beginning and kept bringing me back to it – the unusual process that went into its development (more on that later), the earnest approach to honoring a classic design and doing so thoughtfully, and the use of one of the great new affordable in-house chronograph calibers out there, to name just a few. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9fb8b37a-4e60-4b67-81b8-16b00821774a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As I set out wearing this Autavia, it occurred to me that I’d written about it—as well as its equally interesting genesis—three times already, for different publications and in different contexts. Generally speaking, I tend to serially editorialize just the watches that I’d consider buying myself. That in mind, I can't think of a better way to kick off my new role here than sharing my thoughts on the new Autavia after spending some serious quality time with it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Here goes.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"How This Watch Came To Be"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The launch of the tribute watch we have here coincides with the 55th anniversary of the first Heuer Autavia wristwatch, released in 1962. The oh-so-popular and collectible sports watch was designed, as its name suggests, with both aviators and motorists in mind – the name is a contraction of \"Auto\" and \"Avia.\" The name Autavia appeared much earlier than 1962, however – but on dashboard clocks instead of wristwatches. These made their first appearances in 1933 and they could be fitted either into a plane’s cockpit or a car's dash. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["02542d6c-5f12-4e4b-b10f-2fded18437c0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Vintage Autavias are among the most sought-after Heuers, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/first-generation-heuer-autavia-sells-for-125000dollars-at-christies-new-york/" target=\"_blank\">with prices soaring in recent years</a>. Generally speaking, they wear like modern watches because of their chunkier size. As a point of reference, the Heuer Autavia Ref. 2446 Mark 3 was a 39 mm timepiece, just a hair smaller than a modern Rolex Daytona. And while the Monaco is the most stylishly avant garde, coming in a square case made iconic by Steve McQueen, and the Carrera is the prototypical round racing watch that is still TAG Heuer’s number one bestseller, the Autavia precedes them both and is finally getting the recognition it has deserved all along.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Biver Effect"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Following last year’s successful revival of the Monza, TAG Heuer CEO Jean-Claude Biver turned his sights to another watch that was ripe for revival. But he did so with an unexpected twist that was itself aimed at drawing attention to the watch before its design had even been decided. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["2fd56c3f-75e0-426b-a2a4-47f5986c8e71"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>He decided to pit 16 vintage Heuers against one another in head-to-head competitions in which collectors would vote them up or down online. The competition was called the Autavia Cup and it was formally announced at Baselworld 2016. After each round, there would be winners and losers, with the former advancing to the next round. Then, just a few weeks later, there would be one Autavia crowned king, and it would serve as the inspiration for the new generation Autavia, to premiere less than a year later.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Over the course of the competition, more than 50,000 votes were cast, reflecting a very enthusiastic engagement from Heuer fans around the world. And from those votes, we got our winner: the 1966 Autavia Ref. 2446 Mark 3, a watch that sold for $119.50 at its debut. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["c726a704-2449-46fd-a276-ff402ae0e734"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As our friend Jeff Stein of OnTheDash <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/heuer-expert-jeff-steins-take-on-the-2017-tag-heuer-autavia/" target=\"_blank\">told HODINKEE earlier</a> this year, he helped TAG Heuer arrange the bracket in such a way that none of the heavyweight favorites would knock each other out in the early rounds, making for a more compelling competition the entire way through. The differences were all in the details, and the Autavia Cup itself helped ignite interest in the history of this important model.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I can’t think of another example of a major watch brand crowd-sourcing a major watch launch like this. If you can, drop me a note in the comments, please.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Understanding The Rise Of Vintage Heuer"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are now <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bring-a-loupe-january-27-2017/" target=\"_blank\">early Heuer Autavias selling for more than $200,000</a>. That is a staggering amount for a watch that was long overshadowed and, until this year, not even in the current production lineup. It's really difficult to overstate just how meteoric the rise of the Autavia has been in the vintage market.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In December, a first-generation Heuer Autavia achieved a $125,000 hammer price at Christie’s New York, becoming the first-ever six-figure Autavia at auction. In a story on HODINKEE, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/first-generation-heuer-autavia-sells-for-125000dollars-at-christies-new-york/" target=\"_blank\">Ben openly wondered</a> if the tables might actually be turning for the Autavia, long the less pricey alternative to the Rolex Daytona, and the less beloved cousin of the Carrera.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["3bd81e16-26c7-4074-9746-93a0df02404e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Earlier last year, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/four-heuers-sold-for-a-total-of-dollar461333-over-the-weekend-at-sothebys-and-phillips/" target=\"_blank\">Phillips sold an example of the 2446 Mark Three Jochen Rindt</a> for more than $76,000. Keep in mind, this is a watch that originally sold for $119.50 back in the 1960s. There's enough evidence at this point to reasonably conclude that these results are not one-off aberrations, though not all Autavias were created equal, and the surge in prices is most acutely felt in very specific references.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>“The values of 1960s Autavias have exploded in recent years, while the Autavias from the 1970s and 1980s have been strong, but not nearly as exceptional,” says Jeff Stein, founder of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.onthedash.com//" target=\"_blank\">OnTheDash</a>, a leading resource for collectible Heuer watches. “I believe that the traditional chronographs from the 1960s, with the classic Valjoux 72/92 movements will always have an advantage over the the C-shaped cases from the 1970s and '80s, with their fatter, cam-actuated movements.\" </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fe91486f-5f0a-4d47-a27e-40602630c145"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But even here, there are a few notable exceptions to the rule, as Stein says that the Chronomatics, “Orange Boys,” “Exotics,” and GMTs all have achieved high prices in the vintage Heuer marketplace and will continue to do so.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Geoff Hess, another Heuer expert with a reputation for also collecting the best in vintage Rolex, attributes the surge in popularity of vintage Heuer to what he calls \"a perfect storm of factors.\" Vintage watches are more popular now than at any other time. Heuer is celebrating its own history with well-made tribute pieces like the Autavia 2017; a large community of collectors has grown up around Heuer; and of course, with its associations with racing and film legends Mario Andretti, Jo Siffert, and Steve McQueen, vintage Heuer sport watches have achieved a level of coolness bested only by Rolex, which has become expensive enough to price out many collectors.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2c732e65-e7eb-43c2-9a5f-da2c3ab75837"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So where should you look for value, assuming you don’t have six figures to throw down on the best Autavias? Fortunately there are still plenty of opportunities to get great vintage Heuer watches at a reasonable price, especially, as Stein says, if you’re willing to look at smaller watches from the '40s and '50s.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now let's get back to the new guy.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Autavia 2017"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["b3bd01fe-9eb0-4fe8-ad69-33b9269ab357"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While a watch is of course more than the sum of its parts, let's break the Autavia 2017 down and get a sense of its strengths and weaknesses. I'll say right off the bat that this watch's main strengths are its dial and its movement, and that while its large case is going to be a deal breaker for some of you, I don't think that it should be. In general, I'm a \"just buy the bracelet version\" kind of guy, and with this watch I'm willing to double down on that sentiment.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Case"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When you birth a modern sports watch from a 1960s design, lots of things will, by necessity, change. Generally speaking, in terms of performance, you can expect a whole lot more from the watch as a result of these cumulative changes. With the Autavia 2017, the most conspicuous difference from the Ref. 2446 Mark 3 is the watch’s dimensions. The Autavia 2017 is 42mm in diameter, compared to 39mm for the original. It sits high on the wrist (nearly 16 mm thick, not svelte by any stretch), putting this new Autavia in a size range that is definitely going to irk some of the purists out there. But with this concession to girth come modern enhancements that make it a wearable everyday watch for lots of situations in which one wouldn’t dare put any vintage watch, especially a rare and collectible one.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1dff8c48-1453-4fdb-8c0f-9bb2a4ef7cec"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Most obviously there is the water resistance to 100 meters – not too shabby for a chronograph that was originally designed for the race track. During my weeklong test-drive, I took this new specification to heart and used the Autavia 2017 to time a whitewater rafting adventure on the Saint Lawrence River rapids near Montreal. The watch and I were completely drenched by the end of the day, with cascading waves of rapids battering down on the Autavia strapped to my wrist. To be honest, I had second thoughts about bringing this loaner into such a punishing environment – it was only my first test drive for HODINKEE, after all – but it stood up to the battering and kept the water out just fine. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Autavia case has a pretty standard three-part construction with a screw-in sapphire crystal caseback, offering a view of the Heuer 02 movement inside. The case middle’s sloping lugs look like they might just hug the wrist nicely, but they never really get a chance to offer any ergonomic benefit due to the protrusion of the caseback. Nonetheless, the package itself is well designed. Those lugs are nicely beveled along their edges too. This bit of finishing on the case is something we almost take for granted in modern timepieces positioned at a certain price point, but it’s hardly a common feature in vintage watches.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c7eaea20-6d85-4969-91dd-d143333ec491"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Bracelet"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For the majority of my review time with this watch, it was affixed to my wrist by an Aged Hunter Green leather strap from the HODINKEE Shop. I found the textured green nubuck a more-than-fitting companion for the black dialed Autavia, but I knew toward the end of the review period that I wanted to experience this watch on its supplied bracelet. (The only reason I did not do the entire test drive on the bracelet was that I was traveling and did not have the correct tool for subtracting links.) This bracelet, it should be noted, is special: a modern TAG Heuer-supplied tribute to the fantastic Gay Frères beads-of-rice bracelet that shipped with the original 2446 Mark 3. These old Gay Frères beauties have all of the suppleness and comfort of Milanese mesh, with the strength and form factor of a more conventional stainless steel construction. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["a0346e9f-20f3-4324-aca7-12d5a4b5fb7c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For my last few days with the watch, I managed to switch over to the TAG Heuer-supplied beads-of-rice bracelet, which doesn’t quite hit the mark of the original from Gay Frères. But, to be honest, who would really expect it to? The new one from TAG Heuer is certainly comfortable enough when compared to modern bracelets supplied with similarly priced watches. It doesn’t tug at arm hairs or pinch your skin (these are the concerns I had when looking at it). It rounds out the look of this watch pretty well, and when you consider that the new Autavia is both larger and heavier than the 2446 Mark 3, it only makes sense that there should be more heft and sturdiness to this bracelet. For only a $150 premium over the supplied leather strap, it just makes good plain sense to go for the bracelet when buying the Autavia 2017. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e5413ecd-e5a0-404c-bfc0-a0840784c83e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The dial is a well composed copy of the original panda-style layout. There are a few tiny differences, of course, but on the whole this is a nicely executed homage, starting with a pretty much perfect copy of the 2446 Mark 3 font on the sub-dials. Similarly, because this watch is part of the Heuer Heritage line, the word TAG is absent from the dial. And the transfer of Autavia printed right over the Heuer logo inscribed in a pentagon was handled deftly. Whereas the lowest sub-dial in Ref. 2446 Mark 3 had no date window and the word Swiss printed in black against a white backdrop, this year’s Autavia does have a date, and the words \"Heuer 02\" printed in its place. Just below the date window, off of the white register and taking up a small portion of the chronograph seconds scale, the word “Swiss” is printed. Would a young Jack Heuer, fresh from his engineering training and famously obsessed with the legibility of displays and markers, have allowed a conceit such as a disruption of the chronograph scale? My inclination is to say that he would not, but this is a quibbling detail about a design that is otherwise quite nice.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["e2256eaa-d03a-46e7-b93b-0980ac17871c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7a2f9956-1acd-4cd2-8e0d-393ea6acaada"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>You’ll notice right off the bat the the hours totalizer and the running seconds sub-dial have exchanged places too, a modification necessitated by the new Heuer 02 automatic chronograph movement at the heart of the Autavia 2017. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The original Autavia 2446 Mark 3 came with the hand-wound chronograph caliber Valjoux 72, and as we’ve already discussed, that movement made for a completely different form factor in the finished watch. While some of the purists out there – perhaps most of the purists out there – are going to wish that the Autavia 2017 also came with a manually-wound chronograph caliber and a thinner case, the fact is that we are dealing with the realities of the modern watch industry. As much as HODINKEE readers are going to want a thinner timepiece and a sub-40mm diameter, the majority of watch consumers, and therefore the people who manufacture and market watches at popular price points, have tastes and objectives that are not always closely aligned with that of the enthusiast. But setting all of that aside for just a moment, if we may, there is so much to be excited about in the Heuer 02.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["1e96dac3-b78f-4c8d-a2a6-9714d651a5e2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you’ve followed TAG Heuer over the last five to 10 years, then chances are you remember the Caliber 1969 launch in late 2013. Caliber 1969 was an in-house column wheel chronograph with vertical clutch that was entirely developed and created in-house at TAG Heuer. (This movement was subsequently re-named Caliber CH80, a nod to its 80-hour power reserve.) The announcement of the movement even came along with a brand-new state-of-the-art manufacturing center in which it was to be made. But just as the movement was about to go into production, news came from La Chaux-de-Fonds that the project would be placed on indefinite hold. Some industry pundits even questioned the wisdom of adding yet another in-house chronograph movement to a stable that already included the more than serviceable Caliber 1887. TAG Heuer had been on a dizzying upmarket trajectory during a time saw a company, long associated with volume and aspirational quartz and ETA-based watches, producing limited, expensive, and experimental chronographs, the most exotic even featuring an escapement that replaced the balance spring with magnets. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["336c01c8-8044-406a-a2c7-010e92b9f87f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What we know now is that upon taking the reins at TAG Heuer, Jean-Claude Biver wanted to pause the project and determine where, strategically, the movement would fit into TAG Heuer’s future plans. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is a great movement that <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/caliber-1969-new-in-house-chronograph-from-tag-heuer/" target=\"_blank\">Ben wrote about about way back</a> when it launched under its original name. The finishing is more than decent, even if it’s performed almost entirely by machine. And its performance, as well as the action of the pushers, exceeds what I’ve come to expect from chronographs in this price range.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["efd42b0d-fb00-4fe3-9388-0bfd20fc2dc3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So now that you know what I think about the case, with its perhaps too-large size; the movement, with its automatic winding and modern chronograph construction; the bracelet, with its relative heft and stiffness compared to a mid-sixties classic; and the dial, with its fine design that is nonetheless disrupted by an added date window and some additional text – what do I think overall? </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I very much enjoyed wearing this watch, and it made me smile whenever I paused to look at it. If you want a vintage Autavia, you should probably get just that, but don’t expect anything like the performance or reliability of a modern timepiece. Maybe the most telling thing about this watch is that it has the year 2017 in its name, because despite the vintage looks, this is very much a modern watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I didn't hold back when wearing this watch – taking it, as I already mentioned, on a punishing rafting trip that left both me and it completely drenched. It stood up to the test without giving me any reason for complaint. The quality of the case and bracelet is definitely there to justify the price. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["308c8781-0668-4235-b933-1f1ee8a29846"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Out of curiosity, I asked to see a friend's earlier Autavia Heritage reissue – the 2003 \"Jo Siffert\" – for the sake of comparison. To be fair, there has been enough variability within the Autavia range to make apples to apples comparisons difficult – the Siffert was cushion shaped, for example, and Ref. 2446 Mark 3 is round. But my expectations were confirmed. Not only is the chronograph movement in the Autavia 2017 a great leap forward from the ETA that equipped the Siffert reissue, but the case, dial and bracelet are too.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ef025cad-d138-45f0-b417-425ddc5e5f83"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I mention this because these qualitative improvements make for a vastly more enjoyable wearing experience than I was expecting, as much as I already liked the look of this watch. So while the Heuer 01 Chronograph, with its Big-Bang-esque aesthetics, and the Connected, with its march into smart-watch territory, may be the product releases that get the most commercial attention in TAG's Biver era, the Heritage Line is definitely getting better and better. If you don't believe me, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-heritage-tag-heuer-monza-a-throwback-to-one-of-the-first-pvd-coated-watches-ever-mad/" target=\"_blank\">just take another look at the Monza from last year</a>. The fit and finish on these watches is excellent for the price, and I can't think of many watch lovers who wouldn't get at least some enjoyment from wearing them.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c13981ec-c4d9-4254-aaf0-6d6b860b03b2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What's the Autavia 2017's competition? If we're talking about affordably priced chronographs of some quality, then you may also want to have a look at Tudor's recently launched Black Bay Chronograph. While this particular watch does not have an in-house movement (Tudor sources it from Breitling, in exchange for allowing Breitling access to Tudor's own in-house time-only movement), it does have an escapement and silicon balance spring made in house by Tudor/Rolex. Staying within the LVMH Watch Division, you can get into a vintage-inspired Zenith El Primero while staying under $7,000. And of course, the Omega Speedmaster Professional more than delivers on vintage looks while keeping you right in the $5,000 range.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Another in-house chronograph you may not be aware of is the new one from Frederique Constant, which debuted in Basel this year. The Frederique Constant Flyback Chronograph Manufacture can be had for under $4,000, and as the name says, it's a flyback chrono. If you're willing to extend your budget up to $8,000, then check out the Master Control Chronograph from Jaeger-LeCoultre. This is a great looking watch from a product family that several of us HODINKEE staffers fell in love with at SIHH. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But I have to say, especially when you take price into account, the Autavia 2017 is really, really tough to beat.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If I were to go forward with this purchase – and on reflection, I very well might – I would go for the bracelet version, even taking into account the above-mentioned limitations. As imperfect as this bracelet may be, it’s a more than justifiable $150 upgrade to $5,300 from the strap-equipped version’s $5,150 price. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c3697265-99e2-4697-8ef7-c86b3e9f9cae"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Autavia 2017 is a special watch indeed, and following on the heels of the Monza of a year before, it adds further proof that the desire to make excellent Heritage models at TAG Heuer is alive and well in the Biver era. The fact that one can have an in-house chronograph with vertical clutch – from a major Swiss brand, no less – for just north of $5,000 is in itself a heartening reminder that there are still pockets of value to be found and enjoyed in contemporary watchmaking. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For more, check out the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tag-heuer-autavia-2017-review/" target=\"_blank\">Heuer Heritage Caliber Heuer 02/Autavia 2017 at tagheuer.com.</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"10d1d892-a137-421c-afb8-c74cec2f90d3","container_id":4795,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1507055992914-w4ll9a9c2bb-f5c436219c0de2085bed99e5b578bf5a/3H0A3509_copy_2.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-09-25T13:37:41.800-04:00","updated_at":"2017-10-03T14:40:16.238-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1507055992914-w4ll9a9c2bb-f5c436219c0de2085bed99e5b578bf5a/3H0A3509_copy_2.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tag-heuer-autavia-2017-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The TAG Heuer Autavia 2017","tags":[]},{"id":4779,"slug":"apple-watch-series-3-edition-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Apple Watch Series 3 Edition","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-09-20T07:01:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-09-19T06:14:33.372-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:31.435-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>In this exclusive early review, we look at how cellular makes a difference (*hint: it does – a big one) and how the ultimate smartwatch has started to hit its stride (*if you can call it a watch).</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106668765001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":4763,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":231121,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":false,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>In the fall of 2014, I was one of the very few watch industry insiders to be invited to the launch of the first Apple Watch. The ensuing story (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hodinkee-apple-watch-review/" target=\"_blank\">which you can read here</a>), is still one of the most read stories I've ever written on HODINKEE, and it is in fact the most discussed here and elsewhere. Three years on, the Apple Watch remains one of the most controversial and hotly-debated objects not only in watches – where some view it as a simple non-issue, and still others view it as pure evil taking the form of 42mm of silicon and aluminum – but also in consumer technology because it has, by Apple's admittedly skewed matrices (which will happen when you're the largest company in the history of the world), not been the overwhelming success to which the firm is accustomed.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But if you think the Apple Watch has been a flop, you're kidding yourself. Even more so if you think it hasn't impacted the traditional watch space – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/forget-the-swiss-its-fossil-that-apple-is-threatening/" target=\"_blank\">read my esteemed colleague Joe Thompson's look at what Apple has done to the American-held, multi-billion-dollar company that is Fossil</a> if you don't believe me. Though luxury watch consumers are unlikely to admit it, the Apple Watch has changed things. Last week, we saw the introduction of the Apple Watch Series 3 and Series 3 Edition (housed completely in ceramic) – and today, after spending a full week with the latter, I'm here to give you my full thoughts.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"What's New In Apple Watch Series 3?"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7ecd7d8e-fb98-4c55-9b78-cda45dda9546"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The technical specs of Series 3 <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/apple-watch-series-3-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">were published here on HODINKEE the minute they were announced</a>, but I'll summarize them quickly for you. Series 3 has a barometric altimeter that measures, for the first time, relative elevation. That's helpful for climbing stairs, skiing and snowboarding, hiking, etc. It has a new W2 wireless chip that was developed by, you guessed it, Apple, and offers better performance using less power. There is an entirely new processor within Series 3 that makes it up to 70% faster than Series 2. This is huge, and if you haven't tried an Apple Watch since the first generation, you'll be shocked by the differences in speed. Finally, the biggest change to Apple Watch Series 3 is that now, for the first time, it features cellular capabilities as a stand-alone device, meaning it can operate without your iPhone being within Bluetooth range. Doesn't sound like a big deal? I didn't think it was either, until I tried it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"What's Changed Since 2014? A Lot, And Yet Nothing At All"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In thinking about this new Apple Watch and what it might mean to Apple, the traditional watch industry, and to us as consumers, let's look back to 2014 to see how much has changed since then. We knew Apple Watch was coming, and yet it seemed to take the industry by surprise. The usual suspects were dismissive, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.telegraph.co.uk/technology/apple/11088667/Apple-Watch-too-feminine-and-looks-like-it-was-designed-by-students-says-LVMH-executive.html/" target=\"_blank\">disrespectful even</a>. And then we saw many of them follow in Apple's footsteps by creating their own versions of a smartwatch. Fossil purchased Misfit for $260 million. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.theverge.com/2015/5/5/8557587/iwc-connect-smartwatch-activity-tracker/" target=\"_blank\">IWC announced (but never launched) a fitness tracker that could attach to your watch strap</a>. Montblanc released <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/montblanc-summit-smartwatch-live-pics-pricing-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">a smartwatch that costs around $1,000</a>. Louis Vuitton <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://us.louisvuitton.com/eng-us/stories/tambour-horizon#the-collection\" target=\"_blank\">released one for over $2,500</a>. Don't worry though, because that includes an LV-branded charging case. Now <i>that</i> is luxury.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4355ff08-8569-4c45-959c-2c999e6cf461"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And then there's TAG Heuer, who was among the first, and certainly the most successful, at tackling Apple on their own terms by producing <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/my-thoughts-on-the-tag-heuer-connected-smartwatch-by-kevin-rose-video/" target=\"_blank\">the so-called Connected Watch at $1,500</a> that used technology found in several other watches that could be had for a literal fraction of the price TAG was asking. But you know what? It worked. And as it stands right now, the Connected Watch is in fact the number one selling watch by volume for TAG Heuer in the United States. Bet you wouldn't have guessed that. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d37ad16e-b45c-4955-8bcb-82f87bf8d2d0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's shocking, I know, but <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/Jean-Claude-Biver-Talks-About-SmartWatch#&gid=1&pid=1\" target=\"_blank\">as LVMH honcho Jean-Claude Biver told us in March 2015</a>, his hope is that the connected watch will get people into watches in general, and with a price point of $1,500, it's actually the least expensive item in the TAG Heuer collection. Starting to make sense? </p>\n<p>So again, the Swiss were dismissive of the Apple Watch because it's not even a watch, right? How could someone who appreciates a fine timepiece ever want a disposable digital device on their wrist?</p>\n<p>Still, we now have smartwatches from two of the three big luxury watch groups, and likely more to come. And that's before we actually talk about sales numbers of Apple versus the traditional players or the fact that all of theirs use what is the equivalent of an off-the-shelf caliber in Android OS while Apple's is, to borrow a term they'll understand, completely in-house. Ironic, really.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Blind Leading The Blind"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["491a6118-3da1-4223-b034-15aabc7cafbf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of the most amusing things about doing what I do for a living – writing about and working with <i>mechanical </i>watches – is the reaction that other watch guys expect me, or really any other reasonable watch person, to have about the Apple Watch. They think we should hate it. I don't hate the Apple Watch, nor should anyone else. If anything, the build quality versus price ratio on the Apple Watch is so embarrassing for the Swiss that I genuinely think it will push mechanical watchmakers to be better. And I actually think the Apple Watch has gotten people talking about watches again. Does the Apple watch give me the same emotional satisfaction as my Vacheron Constantin, Rolex, or Omega? Certainly not, but that's not the point. And I think we all know that – so the vitriol that spews from the souls of so many mechanical watch lovers is misguided, whether from an industry employee or from a consumer. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>Ask the average luxury watch consumer how big of an impact Apple has on their world and they might respond with little reaction. But look at more traditional fashion watches – those in the sub-$500 price range – and you'll see a different story. Fossil, a multi-billion-dollar company and maker of entry-level watches had a share price of over $83 the day the Apple watch was announced. It's now below $9. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/forget-the-swiss-its-fossil-that-apple-is-threatening#&gid=1&pid=8\" target=\"_blank\">Read the full story here</a>.</p>","title":"Think Apple Hasn't Hit Traditional Watches? Ask Fossil.","images":["d64dab4b-9884-46de-885a-edd34b65cf38"],"alignment":"right"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>These feelings towards the Apple Watch and smartwatches in general reminds me of a period in my life – a time not so long ago – when \"blog\" was a four letter word, literally and figuratively, to the entire country of Switzerland. The idea that the World Wide Web was a tool through which some could communicate about luxury products was simply unthinkable – and if anyone did, then for sure no one would ever make a purchasing decision based on what <i>a blogger</i> might say, because nobody with any real money would be <i>online</i>! It's this same attitude that caused the Swiss to lose during the Quartz Crisis. And to be clear, they did – 97% of watches on this planet today are quartz (hat-tip Joe Thompson!). </p>\n<p>When I see comments on our site and elsewhere saying that Apple will never dethrone Rolex as a watchmaker, I know they are surely right, when thinking about a timeless, mechanical watch that will last generations. But Apple has, by their own account, already sold more watches than Rolex by revenue in the past 12 months, and that means they've likely sold more in \"watches\" than pretty much everyone else, too. Yeah, it's a little silly to compare Apple to Rolex, but at the same time, how can you ignore a company that according to the widely read Ventrobel report, shipped 11.5 million smartwatches ($4.5 billion) in 2015. And that was 2015, before the Series 2 and well before the brand new Series 3 Watch. Oh, and about that slide at the top of the section and the one that ruffled more than a few feathers when Apple presented it during their keynote – Apple is comparing themselves to Rolex, Omega, and Cartier not in unit sales, where it surely would outpace these luxury players just by virtue of a far less expensive price point, but by revenue. That means more people are spending more money on Apple Watches than Rolex, Omega, or Cartier watches. Think about that. </p>\n<p>Again, the Apple Watch isn't trying to eat the mechanical watch industry's lunch at all, and it certainly isn't looking to replace the mechanical watch as the emotional talisman that its become over the past few decades. The Apple Watch, whatever the series, is an entirely different thing. It's electronic, with a lifecycle that we've all come to know and expect from Apple and all other electronics companies. We replace our phones every few years, and the Apple Watch is a peripheral device to the phone, so it makes sense that we would see them roll out semi-regularly. Now, that's not to say some don't view the Apple Watch as direct competition to some watches, but like I said all the way back in 2014, high-end watches are safe, for now.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"<p>\"Will anyone be trading in their Lange Double-Split for an Apple Watch? Certainly not. But, will the average Lange owner buy an Apple Watch, wear it on the weekends, and then, after a great workout with it, decide to leave it on next for a vacation to the beach, and then maybe on casual Friday to the office? It's possible. Apple products have a way of making someone not want to live without them...So while certainly not direct competition for haute horology watchmaking right now, the Apple Watch is absolutely competition for the real estate of the wrist, and years down the road, it could spell trouble for traditional watches even at a high level. When you realize you just don't need something anymore, there is little desire to buy another. At the lower end, I believe the Apple Watch is a serious threat to those less faithful wearers of analog watches.\"</p>","source":"Benjamin Clymer, September 2014"},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["0e6a5a13-e278-48e1-b4c8-58f5131b7e6a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It turns out I was right. Swiss exports for watches below $1,000 have been the hardest hit, and as we published on this very site yesterday, one of the largest producers of entry level fashion watches in the world, the Fossil Group, has taken a beating since the day the Apple Watch was introduced.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One quote from Fossil CEO Kosta Kartsosis that I think is particularly poignant from this reporting is: \"the number one trend in fashion is technology.\" And I think that is true whether we're looking at $300 Fossils, Apple Watches, or something far more expensive. Granted, mechanical watches are something more like anti-technology, but we mustn't forget, the complicated pocket watch was the precursor to the smartwatch in many ways.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Something else to consider: The Casio G-Shock just celebrated its 100 millionth watch sold, making it, according to Casio, the most successful watch ever created. Guess how long the G-Shock has been around? Thirty-five years. And the Apple Watch sold 11.5 million units in 2015 alone, then demand reportedly dropped considerably in 2016 before climbing back 50% year-over-year into 2017. Looks like Casio won't be holding on to that title for long. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"What It's Like To Attend An Apple Keynote"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"images":["1aa1af55-72d9-4d3c-9053-74dcf86b433c","3da6cf0c-8161-4d29-9d00-7c5dbc5b7e26","0ab43cc0-dff9-4895-9ef3-9683bdaa2720","d08d5805-37fd-4ab0-a9b8-d64c3fa6cc39","c2440eb3-2bc9-4860-8372-fddb9beb33b5","fcb07f4a-bd72-4738-84cd-ca29fc430f44","ffb9c33a-9757-4148-9077-9c6ca95748b5","f210f170-d725-4364-bda7-003a1fad16b2","33a4c6f4-2e38-469c-b208-515ab0b1a24e","db35eb53-a5e5-4e1f-9d3c-ddf793ef231e","8f666960-5f81-4951-ab5a-2eb86f095f59","4ef14543-9131-4a3c-8698-8cffa731bed2","f003cc09-8195-4451-8eb2-a402e854c0f3","9ccb612f-5b21-4abd-810c-b22077e7b1dd","8af39eb0-ba19-478a-9340-44102a598a23","ac66567a-7444-480c-a101-dbe253f5c30a","6391fa51-57fa-4d5c-b9b3-b90996504bdc","70800535-d608-4ff8-8a5c-f27b827560ca","50f79ca5-aa06-4be3-a1e4-ab973205f1d4","4ba53f9e-fa80-4ae6-aa00-42da1a9ea6b0","de1390b1-dda2-4298-8e40-df5cedd94d75","608d9e4a-ccad-4752-afef-2f03fda74ebd","76c077b5-8889-4726-b6d9-df31a52c0535","83b618ca-d0a0-4b4b-aa02-7ce714c523c9"]},"type":"Block::SlideshowImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Just because it's not something many get to do, I thought I'd break up this little review with a few behind-the-scenes photos from launch day in Cupertino. For more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.recode.net/2017/9/13/16299086/apple-park-steve-jobs-theater-iphone-event-photos/" target=\"_blank\">check out Dan Frommer's story on Recode</a> (where approximately 10% of my head makes an appearance). Okay, now back to your regularly schedule program.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A Week On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["daa5064c-c88c-4264-8e9d-1f21961a0da0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>On to the matter at hand, your very first hands-on review of the Apple Watch Series 3 Edition. </p>\n<p>First things first, I owned the Series 1 Apple Watch – and I really enjoyed it for about a month, using it mostly on the weekends and when going to the gym. I found the Bluetooth connectivity and processor simply to be too slow to use it regularly. If I turned it off for a few days and then turned it back on, it would take forever to update with all my emails, text messages, and calendar invitations. Shortly after I got the first Apple Watch, I bought an amazing waterproof Universal Compax and, well, the Apple Watch went into a drawer. When Series 2 came out, my colleague Jack Forster told me I had to give it a shot, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/apple-watch-series-2-review/" target=\"_blank\">saying it was really a whole new experience because of how much faster it was</a>. I tried it, it was faster, I enjoyed it a lot more than Series 1, but still, to the drawer it eventually went. I simply didn't feel that I needed it, and it is certainly the first time I could say that about an Apple product in my life.</p>\n<p>After a week with the Series 3, this has changed. At least for now.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Packaging, Fit, And Finish"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a02683d0-d0cb-4da4-8f08-42a4c9dcc109"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>First, let's be clear what we're looking at here. This is the Apple Watch Edition in 42mm – that means this is among the most expensive Apple Watches currently available. All Edition watches, in both sizes and in both colors, come cellular-enabled, though you can purchase a Series 3 without cell capabilities (and you can still purchase a Series 1, if you'd like to). This means the Edition is a luxury product to Apple, and as such, the packaging, fit, and finish of the whole thing is just exemplary.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b9d9f267-bad3-481e-a4a5-50abbf3dd067"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The beautiful plastic and microsuede box in which the Edition comes is simply stunning, and when showing it to our own in-house designer (who holds a degree in industrial design), he noted the incredible tolerances and smooth corners to every piece of the packaging. To him, it gets no better than when Apple does great packaging, and to me, as someone who lives in a world of leather-bound books and the smell of rich mahogany, the clean, minimalist approach to packaging was a welcome change. Have you SEEN the boxes that come with luxury watches today? They're enormous, they're wasteful, and they're downright silly (shout out to NOMOS though – you guys kill it!). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9da79a3b-47be-4795-8250-36d5d657635b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"body":"<p>While Apple's early Edition watches in solid gold sold for upwards of $18,000 and the ceramic sells for around $1,400, Audemars Piguet sells both the gold and full ceramic version of their perpetual calendar Royal Oak for roughly the same price ($93,900 in ceramic versus $95,700 in rose or yellow gold). This begs the question: \"Who is up-charging the most – Switzerland or Silicon Valley?\"</p>","title":"Things That Make You Go \"Hmm\"","images":["324f7212-e180-49df-93a5-0a1334eeeaf4"],"alignment":"left"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This being the Edition, the entire case of my Apple Watch Series 3 is ceramic. And that's not steel coated in ceramic, it's the real deal. Actually, it's Apple's own in-house ceramic, which uses a powder made of zirconia, yttrium oxide, and alumina. From there, each case is compression molded, then Apple uses 70 diamond-grit CNC machines for over six hours to cut the cases. After that, the ceramic goes through two full hours of polishing to bring it to the sheen that you see here. Again, the quality of the ceramic matches that of any high-end polished ceramic watch I've seen in the market from Switzerland. In fact, Apple has indicated they are using much of the same finishing techniques that one might expect to see in, say, Le Brassus or Le Sentier, and if you look through <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.apple.com/newsroom/2016/11/designed-by-apple-in-california-chronicles-20-years-of-apple-design//" target=\"_blank\">Apple's \"Designed by Apple In California\" book</a>, and then tour Audemars Piguet for example, you'll see the very same tools. In thinking about it, the only high-end Swiss watch that is objectively a more impressive use of ceramic is <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ap-perpetual-calendar-ceramic-26579ce/" target=\"_blank\">AP's Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in full ceramic with ceramic bracelet</a>, and that is because of the multiple facets and finishing types seen on the bezel, mid-case, and bracelet. The ceramic AP is one of the hottest watches in the world at the moment, and even at $93,900 it has a wait list a mile long. Though they are very different watches, I would not be shocked if many ceramic AP owners end up buying ceramic Apple watches – they just kind of go together.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8721d57c-12c1-4e6f-b421-a2172ab3adb2","442a5fa2-01cf-4e0c-b2c6-99021ac750f4"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The muted grey of this new Edition is such a wonderful color – I prefer it vastly to the white ceramic that was available in Series 2. Now, that white ceramic is still available in Series 3, but I think white is a very particular look that will appeal to a very particular set of consumers, while this grey will be far more popular with a wider range of people. Oh, and if you hadn't <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/zenith-el-primero-for-hodinkee?variant=30606885764\%22 target=\"_blank\">guessed</a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/vacheron-constantin-historiques-cornes-de-vache-1955-limited-edition-for-hodinkee?variant=35842814415\%22 target=\"_blank\">by</a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/hodinkee-magazine-volume-1/" target=\"_blank\">now</a>, I'm a fan of grey.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The two pieces of the watch that aren't grey are the caseback, which includes the sensors for heart rate and haptic responses, and the large red dot on the end of the otherwise grey digital crown. This red dot signifies to all that this Apple Watch is indeed cellular capable.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9f4432d8-9fbe-4463-b0db-96df8a2fc858"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["35d527cf-1787-44dc-9d41-c894042b5ef5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The red dot is somewhat of a curious move by Apple for a few reasons. Visually, it's fairly striking, and to some, including the HODINKEE designer I mentioned above, it's a complete turn-off. He said, \"it's a deal-breaker\" for me. I wouldn't go that far, but then again, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/friday-live-episode-18/" target=\"_blank\">as I told you Friday, I'm color blind</a> and it doesn't jump out <i>that</i> much to me. Still, for a company known for being measured in all that they do, this feels a little extravagant, a little showy, in the most Cupertino kind of way. </p>\n<p>And if Apple did want to have some visual cue to let others know you've copped the new hotness with that cellular bizness inside, why make it a red dot, a logo well known and loved by a brand with which many consumers of \"luxury digital products\" are well acquainted – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://petapixel.com/2017/08/30/leica-logo-changed-past-100-years//" target=\"_blank\">Leica</a>? Hell, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://petapixel.com/2013/11/24/one-kind-jony-ive-red-leica-m-sells-whopping-1-8m-charity-auction//" target=\"_blank\">Apple designers Jony Ive and Marc Newson even collaborated on a Leica</a> for the Red Charity Auction in 2013. Again, the red dot isn't a huge deal, but I'd love to get the background on this. Why that and why there?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["4a2f5ba6-2792-42f2-8b1f-387146cd261a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The wrist position, though .2mm thicker than the previous version (we're now at 11.4mm), is just like earlier watches, and excellent. That said, I would be lying if I said I wasn't a little disappointed that we actually went thicker for Series 3 instead of thinner – and I know that it's packed with much more tech, but the heart wants what the hearts wants, and man, I want a super thin Apple Watch. Still, Apple Watch remains a remarkably comfortable tool to wear on the wrist.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Apple Watch Series 3 As A New Part Of Your Life"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["08918e42-44fb-4e4b-93ba-b422a66a7c29"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When Apple announced that you no longer needed to keep your phone near your watch I didn't really think it was that big of a deal. The watch and phone go together – one is a peripheral to the other. But as soon as I had to chance to set up the watch and try it out, I realized that Apple Watch Series 3 is a giant, and I do mean <i>giant</i>, step towards making the product what many in Cupertino dreamed it would be and what many in Geneva feared it would be – a truly powerful tool on which millions will become reliant, just like they are on their phones. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So how does it work? Effortlessly. Your watch connects to your phone using the very same number you've likely had for years, and the watch and phone become interchangeable. In fact, one could almost replace the other, and yes I'm talking about the watch replacing your phone. The first time I left my phone on my desk upstairs and went down to the street to make a phone call, I didn't really believe it would work. It did. And well.</p>\n<p>And of course, when I placed that first call, my own telephone number showed up, and the call was crystal clear in downtown New York City. I became obsessed, and quickly. The next day, I didn't even bring my phone to work with me. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["18771fe5-8d6d-425c-8bb3-f3765e289dd5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now, what I haven't mentioned yet is that there is actually a sister product to Apple Watch Series 3 that is all but a must-have: AirPods. Apple's wireless Bluetooth headphones have been with me since December of last year, and while the sound quality is hardly audiophile worthy, they are incredibly convenient. At this point, I couldn't live without them, and I felt that way even before I received this sample Series 3 to try. They are an even bigger part of my life with the Series 3 in the picture.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["10fb78e4-e246-48c2-8055-ec3709f9fba3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This image above is what I've carried with me the last three days. Not only is there no phone – which, let me tell you, is incredibly liberating – but also I'm now only carrying one AirPod with me at a time. I can make calls, listen to music, and use Siri all from just the single unit, which I throw into my pants pocket when I'm not using it. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I used the term \"liberating\" above, and I mean it. With Apple Watch 1 and 2, you were essentially given an additional screen that told you what you were already being told on your larger, more powerful, more familiar screen (your phone). I understand why that wouldn't be for all – and frankly in the end, it wasn't for me either. This is different. Completely different. I don't know that I ever would've guessed I would say this about a smartwatch, but Apple Watch Series 3 might make your life better – you'll be less connected with the digital world and more connected with the real world around you.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"<p>Apple Watch Series 3 might make your life better – you'll be less connected to the digital world and more connected with the real world around you. </p>","source":""},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In the few days I've been using the Series 3 Edition as my only communication device, I've found myself checking Instagram less. Texting less. Dickin' around on the web less. I use the watch to text or make phone calls when I need to – and that's it. My definition of \"need\" has changed completely – and frankly I don't miss having my phone in my pocket at all. </p>\n<p>Is it more cumbersome to respond to emails and texts? Sure, but Siri in the new watchOS 4 is so dialed-in that mistakes seldom happen in dictation, and there is a nice \"scribble\" function where you can essentially write what you want to say with your finger – it's definitely good enough for quick responses – and, as I've strangely discovered over the last few days, life goes on if emails go unanswered for an hour or two. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cb2c1113-718e-4e83-b877-e68894c51e3b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_left"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Dropping the phone from your #EDC is far and away the most important impact Series 3 will have on you, but the other benefits of wearing an Apple Watch should be mentioned too. You start to pay attention to how active you are – or in my case, or <i>inactive. </i>It reminds you to exercise, to stand up, to breathe. The new OS monitors your heart-rate constantly now, and compares your resting heart rate, active rate, and recovery rates. Frankly, having this much information about your heart is a little disconcerting, but it's also powerful. Apple even launched the Apple Heart Study in partnership with Stanford, which will use the technology to better identify cardiac irregularities earlier. The potential here is, of course, massive. Oh, and did I mention Apple has been in talks with Aetna to potentially offer the Apple Watch to its 20-million-plus subscribers with either a full or partial subsidy? Let's pull this out a little bit to think about what this could mean.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Apple, Aetna, And What Corporate Wellness Could Mean For Them And For Every One Of Their Competitors"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["966db545-295f-48f9-9437-6e168c799b37"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Apple currently has a \"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.apple.com/watch/corporate-wellness//" target=\"_blank\">Corporate Wellness</a>\" page on its website – though I'd never seen it before last night. And the corporate wellness page focuses almost singularly on the Watch. It features quotes from executives from large corporations extolling the benefits Apple Watch has had on the health of its employees. But it is perhaps the first and most visible quote is most interesting. It comes from an executive VP and Chief of HR at Aetna, a $60 billion insurance company that provides healthcare to over 20 million people. Aetna currently provides the Apple Watch to all of its 50,000 employees for free. </p>\n<p>In June 2016, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://investor.aetna.com/phoenix.zhtml?c=110617&p=irol-newsArticle&ID=2206242\%22 target=\"_blank\">Aetna released an announcement that they would be \"Transforming Members’ Consumer Health Experience Using iPhone, iPad and Apple Watch.\"</a> Just last month, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.cnbc.com/2017/08/17/apple-aetna-apple-watch-meeting-details-revealed.html/" target=\"_blank\">CNBC reported that Apple and Aetna met again</a> to discuss how Aetna's own employees found using the Apple wellness program. While nothing has been confirmed, logic would tell us Apple and Aetna are on the verge of announcing a comprehensive partnership. If you look back at the keynote from last week, you'll see that more than half of the time spent on the watch was spent discussing health. That emotional video played in the beginning entitled \"Dear Apple\" gives you a pretty good idea of what's to come. You can watch it below if you missed it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","autoplay":false,"video_id":"N-x8Ik9G5Dg","poster_url":null,"video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Apple is doing a pretty good job at making a case for everyone you know to buy this watch with a video like this – and frankly with the health capabilities the new watchOS 4 has. But don't worry, if that wasn't enough, it won't be long before your insurance provider might even subsidize the cost of your Apple Watch, or even give it to you for free if can be proven that it makes you healthier. And to center the conversation back to our primary audience – imagine how long it'll take for the Apple Watch to take the crown away from Casio then, or to leave Rolex permanently in its dust. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["286ed56a-c81b-4eee-924a-05b6ae68871a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Imagine how many people who have shown little interest in smartwatches will all of a sudden be wearing an Apple Watch. Imagine how many people who are simply indifferent to what goes on his or her wrist – the majority of humanity – will be wearing an Apple Watch because, hell, it could save your life, and if insurance will cover it, why not? Do you think the ability to upgrade to a mechanical chronograph like with TAG Heuer or a Louis Vuitton–stamped charger case will convince a single person to stay away from Apple? Right. You see what I'm getting at here. I just hope Switzerland is prepared – I truly do – because I love mechanical watches and all that they've meant to me and millions of other over the years. But with Apple's developments in health, and now the ability to disconnect from your phone and in turn create an actually healthier lifestyle, the traditional watch industry needs to prepare for a cataclysmic shock.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Apple Watch Series 3 As, You Know, An Actual Watch"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["308e83db-118d-4b60-9187-45d086b0b79f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Enough about that though – what's it like to actually wear the Series 3 as a watch? It seems almost silly to talk about its time-telling ability when it can do so much more, but at the end of the day, this is HODINKEE and if we're going to say, \"fine, we'll call it a watch,\" then this has to be considered. Series 3 has dozens of dial types, including the new Explorer dial seen above, and several from the previous versions of the OS that are reminiscent of traditional watch faces. What is fun, though not new, is that the Apple Watch actually pays homage to one of horology's greatest complications (and one of my personal favorites) with its lap-timer. When you select the \"analog\" face in the stop watch app, you see what looks like a real-deal <i>rattrapante</i>, or split-seconds chronograph. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["d15ba843-4d6a-4cd0-ba30-cbbf343e1836"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Just as before, the dial goes dark until you lift your wrist to look at it. When configured as above, it mimics a traditional analog watch in a convincing manner. The Edition, in all its high-end ceramic glory, does give the wearer a sense that he or she is wearing something special – but everything is relative. After a few days of wearing the Apple Watch Series 3 Edition, I put my gold Lange 1 back on, and well, it felt like home. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["13e7bf02-1e14-450a-9450-45148d14a243"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Apple Watch Series 3, Edition or not, is the watch we've been waiting for from Apple. As mentioned, the cellular capabilities <i>alone</i> elevate this product from a niche peripheral to something that could become instrumental to millions of people's daily lives. The setup above, Series 3 with cellular and one AirPod, I expect to become almost indispensable to many, just as it has been for me this last week. The Edition, an admittedly pricey option for an object that will likely become obsolete in 18 months, is silly when viewed that way, but lovely when viewed for what it is – an expertly produced and stunning piece of industrial design that gives fine watchmakers a run for their money. It's so beautiful and so complex to produce that it makes me wonder if this watch is simply a beta test for larger projects with ceramic to come. It must be. Because though Apple is indeed the ultimate luxury brand – and it's becoming more \"luxury\" each year – I'd be curious to see how big demand for a $1,349 semi-disposable watch really is. That's not to say the Edition doesn't have a place, it definitely does, and frankly it is with people just like me, but I'm talking bigger picture here. It is lovely, and to me far more interesting than a traditional steel Apple Watch – but I recognize the absurdity in it for the average person looking in. It is, of course the same absurdity through which the entire mechanical watch world is viewed daily. That said, sometimes want is a far stronger desire than need and the Edition will find its fans, surely.</p>\n<p>Putting the price of this Edition aside, I think this Friday, as the Apple Watch Series 3 begins to deliver all over the world, we are about to begin a new chapter for smartwatches and perhaps for watches in general. Will Swiss watchmaking do as Nokia did with the iPhone and downplay the threat until it's far too late? Or will Swiss watchmaking thrive due to the very reason that it stands for hand-craft, longevity, and multi-generational appeal – the very antithesis of most digital products? The answer is likely neither one nor the other. The watch industry doesn't move as a whole – some resist, some accept. Now the question becomes where each brand will stand as the dust settles on what is very likely a new era for the watch world, all ushered in by the Apple Watch Series 3.</p>\n<p>You can read more about <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.apple.com/apple-watch-edition//" target=\"_blank\">Apple Watch Series 3 Edition right here</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"BONUS: We Stop Three Random People On The Streets Of Brooklyn To Ask Them About The New Apple Watch Series 3"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","autoplay":false,"video_id":"6106661979001","poster_url":null,"video_type":"brightcove"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What do three total strangers think of the new Apple Watch? Well, have a look above.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Video: Will Holloway/Greyson Korhonen</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"467214b4-1519-4984-85d6-ee2e2b062f8b","container_id":4779,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1505823722318-wc6nce9ue9k-7b6c719a9b534ca2727702ebe96e2e1a/3H0A5187_copy.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-09-19T06:14:33.580-04:00","updated_at":"2017-09-19T08:22:11.296-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1505823722318-wc6nce9ue9k-7b6c719a9b534ca2727702ebe96e2e1a/3H0A5187_copy.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/apple-watch-series-3-edition-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Apple Watch Series 3 Edition","tags":[]},{"id":4719,"slug":"a-lange-sohne-1815-annual-calendar-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Annual Calendar","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-09-07T14:08:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-08-17T10:38:33.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:32.201-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>A mid-tier complication, with a high caliber feel.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106661977001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":115182,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>It’s no secret that A. Lange & Söhne makes a good watch. Heck, you could even go so far as to say they make a magnificent watch, and I don't think anyone would argue with you. However, a byproduct of being among the highest echelons of watchmakers is that the focus tends to get put exclusively on their most exceptional pieces. But this year, my personal Lange highlight is not the grandest complication – it's the 1815 Annual Calendar. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["a1f64658-779b-42ea-8e26-6adbcf2453c3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>After SIHH 2017, this watch was something of a sleeper hit. While watches like the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-master-control-date-sector-dial-a-week-on-the-wrist/" target=\"_blank\">Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control</a>, the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/panthere-de-cartier-stainless-steel-review/" target=\"_blank\">Panthère de Cartier</a>, the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vacheron-constantin-les-cabinotiers-celestia-astronomical-grand-complication-3600-in-depth/" target=\"_blank\">Vacheron Constantin Celestia</a>, and even the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-zeitwerk-decimal-strike-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">Zeitwerk Decimal Strike</a> from Lange were all getting lots of love, the 1815 Annual Calendar sort of slipped through the cracks. I listed it as my <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/editors-picks-the-best-grail-watches-of-sihh-2017/" target=\"_blank\">favorite grail watch</a> at the time, but knew I needed to spend more time with it. Now, after spending a full week with the watch firmly on my wrist, I can say without question my instincts were right: this is one amazing watch. But, it's not without its flaws, and there's even a little bit of controversy about the 1815 Annual Calendar among Lange purists. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"What Is An Annual Calendar?"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"When was the first annual calendar introduced?\" My colleague Ben Clymer once asked this question of our then-20-year-old intern, who fancied himself a pretty serious watch guy. This was, at one point, something of mild-mannered hazing from Ben to novice watch fans. Our intern's response? \"I'd guess mid 1800s sometime?\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>An annual calendar is a different thing than a triple or \"simple\" calendar. It's also different from a perpetual calendar. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/watch101/annual-calendar/" target=\"_blank\">Learn the differences now</a> so you don't inspire another HODINKEE story like <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/twelve-mistakes-new-watch-guys-make-how-to-avoid-them/" target=\"_blank\">this one</a>.</p>","title":"Don't Make This Mistake","images":["5b1ca815-cedc-45d1-97c5-861ac68fafa4"],"alignment":"right"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And from this misplaced confidence came <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/twelve-mistakes-new-watch-guys-make-how-to-avoid-them/" target=\"_blank\">Twelve Mistakes New Watch Guys Make</a>, because, as you should know by now, the annual calendar is a product of the 1990s. It can barely drink! </p>\n<p>Indeed, the annual calendar was created just 21 years ago by Patek Phillippe, and first produced as the reference 5035. The concept, which was really one of the first \"mid-tier\" complications to come from a major brand, was a brilliant commercial step for Patek, if a bit ho-hum in terms of horological innovation. Instead of a simple calendar where one must manually adjust the date at the end of each month, the annual calendar compensates for those months with 30 days. That would be an incredible accomplishment! That is, of course, had the perpetual calendar, which compensates for not only shorter months but also for all leap years, had not been widely used in horology for the better part of two centuries. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Some dismiss it as a dumbed-down perpetual calendar, but that's not to say it's not a useful and welcome complication. The 5035 allowed Patek clients to get into complications without entering the stratosphere of both price and complexity, of perpetual calendars, tourbillons, minute repeaters, or even chronographs – remember, at this point, Patek did not make an automatic chronograph, and at the time, they didn't even make a straight manually wound chronograph then either, in house or otherwise. The only way you could get a pure chronograph from Patek Philippe at the time was in the form of a perpetual chronograph, in the 3970. So, pickings for complicated Pateks at the time were slim.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["8e5222df-f329-407b-b4c2-52da4ae5acea"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The 37mm reference 5035 featured a self-winding caliber 315 S-QA and three sub-dials, one each for the day, date, and month. What the watch was missing when compared to a perpetual calendar, was a moon-phase display and of course, a leap year indicator. Unlike a perpetual, the annual calendar does not account for a Leap Year, so it must be adjusted once per year at the end of February (in both Leap Years and non-Leap Years; as we mentioned, the annual calendar only distinguishes between 30 and 31-day months).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["fb4efa41-d3fe-4ff4-a658-98772f8b7e0d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now, if you are a diehard calendar freak (bless you), then re-setting your watch at the end of every February might seem tedious, and if you therefore want to splurge for the mac-daddy perpetual calendar complication – fine. If you’re not, and you’re okay with the extra work that is required to find your setting pin (that always seems to go missing) and push a button twice, then the annual calendar is for you – though with the Lange we're about to get into, no pin is necessary.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The ref. 5035 remained in production until 2005, when the reference 5146 was released as its successor. The annual calendar complication was, and is still, special because it is more accessible price-wise (with the understanding that \"accessible\" is a relative term) while allowing those who want to enter the world of complicated watches do so with dignity, and without having to sell their house or lose a spouse in the process. For Patek, the annual calendar is a cornerstone product, and has been used in countless watches, from elegant limited editions to sporty chronographs in multiple guises. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d643c396-91c8-4d35-9780-6a3016390617"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Other manufacturers soon followed suit and produced their own annual calendar wristwatches, with Bulgari, Breitling, Omega, and A. Lange & Söhne all making the complication over the years. Even Rolex makes an annual calendar in its Sky-Dweller.</p>\n<p>Still, the annual calendar watch is still not nearly as prominent as its older, more complicated sibling. This is particularly true when it comes to A. Lange & Söhne – other than the watch we have here, the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-saxonia-annual-calendar-in-platinum/" target=\"_blank\">Saxonia Annual Calendar</a> is the only other annual in Lange's line-up. It was released in 2010 and nothing new had been introduced since then. That could very well be for a reason – the annual calendar is a vastly simpler complication to produce than a perpetual and many purists believe that it is beneath the level of refinement expected from the likes of Patek Philippe, Lange & Söhne, and Vacheron Constantin. An annual calendar makes sense for an Omega, a Rolex, and IWC, but not a top tier brand, is what they would argue. But, the wants of a purist is not what sells watches (at least, not exclusively) and the annual calendar remains a popular product in both high-end and mid-tier watch brands. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The 1815 Family"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>To understand this new annual calendar, one must first understand the 1815 family. The 1815 collection was first introduced in 1996, and is a nod to the birth year of Ferdinand A. Lange, the brand's original founder. It is characterized by the large, painted Arabic numerals that mimic those of early pocket watches. This design trait is repeated through the entire collection, which ranges from a time-only wristwatch to, well, much more. As you can see, the Annual Calendar fits nicely into this collection, with its well-balanced dial and pronounced Arabic numerals.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>The most complicated A. Lange & Söhne ever made, the 50mm, $2.6million Grand Complication is actually a part of the 1815 family. You can watch an exclusive video we produced on this incredible watch <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-a-lange-sohne-grand-complication/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.</p>","title":"Did you know?","images":["174a68c8-4e40-474c-bde4-1b7974474a1b"],"alignment":"left"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The 1815 Collection ranges from the super-simple time-only watch to the super-complicated Grand Complication. There is one time-only model; one up-down (power reserve); two chronographs; two tourbillons; one <i>rattrapante</i> chronograph perpetual calendar, one \"Tourbograph\" perpetual calendar, and one grand complication. Almost every complication has been addressed in this collection, so the annual calendar is a welcome addition in more ways than one. Not only is it more approachable from a technical standpoint, it fits nicely into the pricing structure of Lange and the 1815 Collection.</p>\n<p>To put things in perspective, the 1815 Annual Calendar sits right between the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-a-lange-shne-1815-updown-full-specs-live-pics-official-pricing/" target=\"_blank\">1815 Up-Down</a>, which was released in 2013 and retails for $28,600 in white gold, and the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-lange-and-sohne-1815-chronograph-revisited/" target=\"_blank\">1815 Chronograph, which weighs in at $51,500</a>. As you can see, the Annual Calendar fits in nicely, and closes the gap between the two watches within the collection. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["533ff2ec-381c-4eba-8d29-9675658e1e0a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Case"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The 1815 Annual Calendar comes in two metals – white and rose gold. As you may know, I'm a sucker for white metals and decided to go with the white gold model you see here. The case measures 40mm in diameter and 10.1mm thick. It is the only 40mm watch in the 1815 collection, with the rest ranging from <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.alange-soehne.com/en/timepieces/1815/#1815/introduction/235-032\" target=\"_blank\">38.5mm for the time-only</a> model, to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.alange-soehne.com/en/timepieces/1815/#grand-complication/introduction/912-032\" target=\"_blank\">55mm for the Grand Complication</a>. </p>\n<p>Watches at 40mm can be many things to many people – too big for some, too small for others, and still yet just right for others. The exact proportions and the details can make a big difference. For example, Lange bezels tend to be on the thinner side, and the bezel here is no exception, making the watch wear a little large. However, the watch neatly balances being both slender and sturdy, and it feels a commanding presence in the palm of your hand, with the right bit of heft, as anyone who has had the opportunity to handle a Lange knows well.</p>\n<p>One of the nicest things about the case is the brushed band around the sides. Not every manufacturer pays attention to details like this, but Lange does, and it help sets the German watchmaker's creations apart from those of competitors. The mix of the polished, rounded bezel and the brushed case band adds contrast and depth to what would otherwise be a relatively traditional case.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["52724bf7-ec40-4b23-a47a-bc93db1beb30"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The lugs are slightly on the small side for a 40mm case. While this could easily ruin the balance of an otherwise great watch, that is not the case for the 1815 Annual Calendar. The shorter lugs actually allow the case to feel smaller on the wrist, which is a plus for those who might be afraid to take the 40mm plunge. But the best part about this case? The day/date corrector button located at two o'clock.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"<p>With the 1815, you can just push the beautifully curved rectangular button at two o'clock and the date and day will advance simultaneously. Consider yourself #blessed for not having do deal with the hassle that is corrector pins. </p>","source":""},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The 1815 Annual Calendar is manually-wound, with a power reserve of 72 hours. That means if you let your watch go more than three days between windings (say you leave it on your dresser over a long weekend, for example), you'll need to correct the day and date. Luckily, you can just push the beautifully curved rectangular button and the date and day will advance simultaneously. Consider yourself #blessed for saving the extra minute you'd otherwise spend fiddling with corrector buttons. For all other setting needs though you will have to switch over to the old-fashioned flush-set correctors (and a setting pin) which are fine, but not nearly as efficient – though with the 1815 Annual Calendar, you will only need to, in theory, use them once. This kind of quick-correction system sounds like something that should be common on calendar watches, but it's actually anything but. I really appreciated having it here. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["99062117-609a-4506-8a86-4cd1295fce77"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["10fd2376-a6c4-4164-9533-449b49ef32df"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The dial on the Annual Calendar is probably my favorite thing about the watch overall. It’s sleek, legible, and displays all the necessary information directly and clearly. Everything has a purpose and a place. First things first: the dial color is a matte silver, with brushing so fine you can’t even detect the texture in most lighting conditions. It still has a sort of special glow though, radiating in the light and maintaining a subtle luster in darker conditions. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["ac6598c4-501b-41ba-b7ae-43d0f3857da0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are three sub-dials; one for the month, another for the moonphase and running seconds, and a third for the day and date. Each sub-dial is meticulously crafted, with the text laid out with incredible balance. A continuous theme on the dial is concentric circles. The center of the dial is recessed, with the sub-dials placed centrally over the recessed line, all appearing to be on the same plane. This gives the dial depth, and makes it all the more interesting to gaze at throughout the day.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["cbb690d4-0bad-43a5-b83b-703c16b59fe8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The hands are bright blued steel that contrasts nicely against the cool silvered dial. The same blue is reflected in the moonphase (accurate for up to 122 years, mind you) which is dusted with stars too. But I think the thing I love the most is the way that the text is laid out throughout. The two sub-dials for the day/date and the month both feature a lot of text – so much in fact that many watchmakers would end up with a total mess. Not Lange, though. No, they have managed to create a pleasing display of information that is both visually striking and practical, though when the watch was launched, the same purists that likely protested Patek making an annual calendar in 1996 complained against \"Annual Calendar\" being written on the right sub-dial. Meh, whatever.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The only previous Lange Annual Calendar, the aforementioned Saxonia Annual Calendar, uses the caliber L085.1, which is automatic and features a micro-rotor (yay!). The 1815 uses a brand new caliber, the L051.3, which is both larger in size and manually-wound. The caliber L051.3 is comprised of 346 components and is 30.6mm in diameter and 5.7mm thick, with the calendar module itself is only 1.4mm thick. As mentioned, the power reserve is 72 hours, up from the 46 hours of the 476-component L085.1 found in the Saxonia.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["bbbecbb3-3e6b-4569-bd16-36bb1aa7bd57"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["c269e1f5-4efa-4951-8bdc-8682d71eae02"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The question of having a manually-winding movement instead of an automatic movement, is a time-old watch tale and is much debated about amongst purists (more on that later). While I am typically an automatic gal (I confess, I like to grab and go), I think there is a time and place for every kind of movement. For the 1815 Annual Calendar, I think the manual-winding movement is necessary for many reasons. One, with no rotor or <del>cute</del> micro-rotor, the watch has a thinner profile which ultimately means it's more comfortable. Secondly, having a hand-wound movement allows one to enjoy this watch every day while winding it, and let's get real, if you are going to spend $40,400 you should be enjoying this watch all the time. Thirdly, Lange makes an exceptional manual-winding movement and I mean <i>exceptional</i>. The story doesn't end here, and I'll bring up the whole manual versus automatic again later.</p>\n<p>The caliber L051.3 is stunning. With this manual-winding movement you get the beautifully hand-finished German silver three-quarter plated movement with over-sized rubies set in gold screwed chatons, a subtle but meaningful aesthetic. Another thing I love about the Lange movements are the hand-engraved balance-cocks, they add a nice flourish of detail that is often overlooked. But the thing I love most about this movement is the 1.4mm thick annual calendar module, which further allows the watch to measure 10.10mm thick, which again allows for easy wearing. This just goes to show how Lange always wins at marrying form and high-performing function. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A Week On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["941dacdd-bf37-497d-89ab-8b4799f55a5f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I have to say, I was apprehensive when the 1815 Annual Calendar first arrived in the office. A complicated watch like an annual calendar watch can be a little intimidating, especially for someone who generally wears a stainless steel chronograph. Additionally, the 40mm case looked bigger than I remembered it at SIHH (I blame the jet lag). However, once I put this puppy on my wrist, my fears quickly dissipated.</p>\n<p>Not only was the watch wearable, it was downright comfortable. At first I just wore it around the office, and sitting at my desk while typing, I couldn't help but stare at it. Writing emails soon became a joy as the silvered dial flickered in the late afternoon light. Then I went outside at dusk, and it was even better. I'm pretty sure that I stopped to check my wrist at almost every street corner (whether I had the walk signal or not). There is something so satisfying about a well-made silvered dial – it almost glows in a way that you just can't explain – and the luster of the white gold case only added to my satisfaction (have I mentioned that I like white gold?).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["d2e1f7e1-0f51-4b13-861a-2bad393000b7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As I mentioned, a 40mm diameter can be touch and go, depending on the watch. While my Daytona is also 40mm, it's a tool watch and (at least to me) would feel silly much smaller or larger. At the same diameter and 10.10mm thick, the 1815 is streamlined and elegant, but understated (which is hard to achieve) allowing you to wear it comfortably with jeans and a t-shirt, or equally well with a suit. I won't make so bold as to say that you could wear it with a tuxedo, but if you were in a pinch, I don't think I would blame you. </p>\n<p>My only suggestion for this watch would be to mix it up with the strap. I wore it on both the black alligator strap that accompanied the watch, and one of the HODINKEE Shop's Olive Green Suede straps. Of course, each one serves a different purpose, but I was amazed at the versatility of the watch when the strap was changed. It instantly felt like a daily wear piece when paired with a more casual strap choice. My only qualm (if you can call it that) is this watch – nay, all Langes, in my opinion – should come on a deployant buckle. The head of this watch is substantial, and a small Lange pin buckle felt far too delicate to support it. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now that you know what the 1815 Annual Calendar is all about, it's worth looking at what other annual calendars are out there. In short, there aren't many that are at this level of craftsmanship and finishing. When I began to dig around, it was very clear to me that this complication is rarer than I first expected. That said, there are a few good options out there you should know about.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["504dec54-d738-4831-9940-af28e3b34e5e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you didn't think this was coming, I don't know what you were thinking. As far as the basics go, this watch is smaller at 38.5mm in diameter and at the center is the signature oversized date display that Lange is known for <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/five-date-displays-done-well/" target=\"_blank\">(arguably one of the best date displays out there)</a>. The more minimal layout allows for easy reading, and the automatic movement is great for those who don't necessarily want to wind their watch everyday. However, I think that 1815 is definitely a step up aesthetically and functionally, though both could be debated. The Saxonia Annual Calendar comes in platinum, white gold, or rose gold, with the white gold version costing $48,800. That's more than $8,000 more than the 1815 Annual Calendar.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Patek Philippe Reference 5396"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["860ad0fb-59eb-480d-8acb-d481cf64852e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The reference 5396 is one of the more desirable modern Pateks out there. With a similar aesthetic to my beloved reference 3448, the ref. 5396 is what modern Patek dreams are made of. It has pure and simple appeal and a reliable and gorgeous movement inside. The case is 38.5mm and it sits low on the wrist, making it a fantastic watch for almost any occasion (except diving). The movement is the automatic caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/303, which has a 45-hour power reserve. It displays the day, date, month, and moonphase with three apertures and a lone sub-dial. </p>\n<p>When comparing the ref. 5396 to the 1815 Annual Calendar, for me it's all about that dial layout. Both are beautiful, functional, and well designed; it's just a matter of which is more suited to your taste. With the ref. 5396 priced at $47,970, budget might be a concern too. Again, you pay a serious premium for the Patek Philippe, making the 1815 Annual Calendar look even more wallet-friendly.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar Reference 5035 "},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["c33626d1-61dc-40fb-be66-6076f3ea5032"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For something a little different, there's the IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar reference 5035. The ref. 5035 was released back in 2015 and got a good reception. Jack <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-iwc-portugieser-annual-calendar-reference-iw50350/" target=\"_blank\">went hands-on with it here</a> and it certainly filled a void in the annual calendar market. Based on the classic Portugieser (<i>née</i> Portuguese), it is 44.5mm in diameter, which for an average size human is pretty darn big. It is powered but the automatic caliber 52850, which has a seven-day power reserve; substantially longer than any other annual calendar I could find. </p>\n<p>While the silvered dial is attractive and informative, I find the three window day, date, and month display at the top crowded. Some may like it, but to me it lacks balance and elegance. Price could be a big motivating factor here, with the watch coming in at $21,300 in stainless steel (and a less compelling $31,600 in red gold), offering a way for people to get into an annual calendar at a substantially lower price point. If the complication itself is what you're primarily looking for, this could be an alternative to the 1815 Annual Calendar – otherwise I don't think it's competing for the same audience.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Purists Versus Reality For The Future Of Lange"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Something that few outside of the most inner-cicles of Lange-dom would know about, but I think is worth repeating here, is that when this watch was shown at SIHH this year, a set of collectors were fairly vocal (amongst each other) about how disappointed they were in the product. Why? They felt that this watch simply made no sense as a Lange – using a complication invented by its greatest rival and pairing it with a manually wound movement to, in their opinion, fit a very particular price point of sub-$45,000. First, if a watch's modus operandi is to be a calendar, why do it in an 1815 with no outsized date? Second, an annual calendar is all about convenience, so why would it be manually wound? Sure, it's thinner, but come on, calendar watches should be self-winding! Actually, is this the only manually wound annual calendar in the world? I can't think of another off the top of my head but there must be some others out there – feel free to leave any suggestions in the comments.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6cb0f9ca-a3ae-4833-8a93-76f25d00a3f5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The lack of outsized date and automatic winding system, and the inclusion in the 1815 family, certainly allowed this watch to be less expensive than its Saxonia sibling. And to this one set of collectors – the type of collectors who were buying Langes in the '90s and have owned just about all of them – it didn't sit well. It's as if they almost wanted this watch to be more expensive. I understand the thinking of these astute collectors some of whom I am lucky enough to call pals, but I think they are, simply put, wrong. In fact, I think it's that type of thinking that has put the entire high-end watch industry in a tough spot to begin with. </p>\n<p>Let me explain. I agree, this watch is not the most \"Lange\" Lange to ever come out of Saxony. But what it is, is a solid complication from a great brand at a very reasonable price. And yes, it's manually wound, which makes no sense if you own 10 high-end watches. But that's not who Lange is targeting with this timepiece, they are targeting the young man or woman (maybe about my age) who wants his or her first high-end, complicated watch. And that means it should be manually wound – because that's what enthusiasts want today. Further, anyone complaining that this watch is \"priced too low\" is simply living in a world that doesn't come close to mine, or I would imagine the majority of this planet. When I found out that Lange had made a complicated calendar watch under $45,000, I was thrilled! </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["252a41fb-3ccd-4356-a456-ca2243b7d479"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The last time I was this excited? When I found you could buy <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-sohne-saxonia-thin-37mm-week-on-the-wrist/" target=\"_blank\">a new Saxonia 37mm for under $15,000</a>. Lange is clearly making a concerted effort to offer their particular brand of high-end watchmaking to more people each year, and I know for a fact that the 37mm Saxonia cannot be kept in stock. And what's more, people are paying full retail for it instead of chasing used pieces from resellers. I expect the same thing here with the annual calendar – when you make a compelling product and price it appropriately, you create a much stronger relationship with your clients and I am thrilled to see Lange taking these steps, no matter what the old guard says. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So there you have it, the 1815 Annual Calendar from A. Lange & Söhne is truly one of the more wearable and exceptional watches released this year. While the annual calendar function is still considered to be a mid-level complication, I think the 1815 elevates it, wearing like a much more complicated (and much more expensive) watch than it is. Discovering that there are so few annual calendars out there, and even fewer worth buying, only sets it apart even more as a watch I not only appreciate but would actually consider buying some day.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["80bd6301-5735-47d8-9ceb-2c4c8c7e2ca2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This relatively new complication deserves a lot more credit from collectors and a lot more attention from watchmakers, especially when you consider that an entry-level modern perpetual calendar starts at almost double the $40,400 cost of the 1815. To further put things in perspective, this year's <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5320g-perpetual-calendar-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">Patek Philippe reference 5320G perpetual calendar will set you back $81,200</a> and the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-a-lange-sohne-langematik-perpetual/" target=\"_blank\">A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual fetches $84,200 in white gold</a>. </p>\n<p>If you are looking to break into the world of serious complications without going for broke, this watch is a clear front runner in the market and a watch you should spend some time with yourself. It has everything you want and need, and then some.</p>\n<p>For more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.alange-soehne.com/en?&mid=787xqw38809&mkwid=sfhRowIxC_dc&pcrid=94347012130&kword=a%20lange%20and%20sohne&match=e&plid=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9ZvIuYmK1gIVgoJpCh0_uw9JEAAYASAAEgKLyvD_BwE\%22 target=\"_blank\">visit A. Lange & Söhne online</a>. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Update: The original version of this story noted the price of the 1815 Annual Calendar was $36,600. This was the pricing announced at SIHH in January 2017, but A. Lange & Söhne has since updated their prices. The article now contains the correct, current price as of September 2017.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"0aeeaacd-94d1-4e32-aae7-29c3ae73f2bc","container_id":4719,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1504718442599-cy2rgseig1r-fae73fd97b238acdfa11cd78e60e4a40/3h0a2992.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-08-17T10:38:33.967-04:00","updated_at":"2017-09-06T13:21:01.711-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1504718442599-cy2rgseig1r-fae73fd97b238acdfa11cd78e60e4a40/3h0a2992.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-sohne-1815-annual-calendar-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Annual Calendar","tags":[]},{"id":4730,"slug":"ferdinand-berthoud-chronometre-fb-1-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-09-05T13:01:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-08-23T12:33:25.946-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:32.602-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>Seven days with a high-test \"marine chronometer for the wrist.\"</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":24940,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>Back in September 2015, Chopard Group launched a new brand. The new company was named for one of the most important figures in the evolution of precision timekeeping: the Swiss chronometer maker Ferdinand Berthoud (1727-1807). We took a fairly in-depth look at the life and work of Berthoud in <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-chopard-group-launches-la-chronometrie-ferdinand-berthoud-and-fb-1-a-marine-chronometer-for-the/" target=\"_blank\">our In-Depth introduction to the new company's first watch</a> – the Chronomètre FB 1 – and particularly at his rather tumultuous relationship with Pierre Le Roy, his biggest rival in France. Berthoud spent most of his professional life in France, and perhaps just to put his life in context, we can look again at what Commander Rupert T. Gould has to say about Berthoud in The Marine Chronometer, Its History And Development: </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["eeabb3b3-e166-4817-aeab-daf2fbda4793"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>“Although practically the whole of his working life was passed in France, he is justly regarded in his native land as one of the greatest of all Swiss horologists who have done so much to advance both the science of horology, and the prosperity of their country...he is chiefly remarkable for his extraordinary industry, as both maker and author – he was the most voluminous writer on horology who ever lived – and for the marvelous variety of his conceptions...his deservedly great fame must rest at least as much upon his writings as his mechanisms.”</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The inspiration for the Chronomètre FB 1 was the architecture of the classic marine chronometer, and the features of such timpieces. Generally, for obvious reasons marine chronometers had a long power reserve, and a design that made observing any daily variations in rate as easy as possible. Internally, they virtually always had a chain and <i>fusée, </i>which is a device intended to provide an unvarying amount of torque to the balance. The latter is not typically found in a wristwatch because of the amount of space it takes up in the movement, although there are a (very) few high end watchmakers that use them, including Lange, and of course Breguet. </p>\n\n<p>The FB 1 also has a tourbillon, which is very much from the world of watches rather than marine chronometers. The latter were always placed in gimbaled boxes, so a device like the tourbillon, which is meant to match the rates in the vertical and horizontal positions, would have been unnecessary and even undesirable as the tourbillon puts a considerable extra drain on the energy available for the balance. The power reserve system in the Chronomètre FB 1 is quite interesting as well; instead of the usual differential gear system, the FB 1 has a cone that moves downward as the mainspring runs down; a ruby roller on the surface of the cone transmits its height to the power reserve hand. I should mention that \"chronomètre\" in the name of the watch isn't just window dressing; it's certified as a chronometer by the COSC.</p>\n\n<p>Externally, the Chronomètre FB 1's octagonal design echoes the gimbal system used to keep boxed chronometers level when at sea. There are four sapphire panels set into the sides of the case, to allow a better view of certain features of the movement. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["74f3f338-dd40-46de-9655-b9ff9387a882"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fea02d14-b01c-469f-bfac-7536fb2b455c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I hadn't seen the watch since its introduction in Switzerland, so for all intents and purposes, it was back-to-square-one, first impression time when we received it. For all its complexity, it's not a terribly large watch. The case is 44mm x 13mm, but seems smaller and 13mm is quite slim for a watch with a <i>fusée </i>and a 56 hour power reserve. In rose gold the case geometry is a bit more pronounced than in the white gold version (it's offered only in white or rose gold) and in that metal, perhaps more overtly luxurious, but given the degree of visual hyperbole that usually travels along with high concept timepieces like this, the overall effect is surprisingly dignified. There are ceramic inserts between the lugs which act as strap carriers, and along with the slate colored dial, it's a great combination of black/near black, and gold.</p>\n\n<p>The dial arrangement has a superficial resemblance to a regulator dial, but it's not – a regulator dial has a central minute hand and hour hand in a subdial, while the FB 1 has a center seconds hand, and the time in a subdial. The impression of precision you get from the FB 1 is very definite – it feels like a luxury precision instrument, rather than a luxury or design object first, and a precision machine second.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["15cf8463-077c-4488-bfdb-ad5dd9913bfb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Generally speaking, super-watches like this have three jobs; the first is to succeed as design objects <i>per se; </i>the second is to present some compelling take on mechanical timekeeping; the third is to <i>look </i>the part – that is, they are to some degree social signals and social display objects. The Chronomètre FB 1 certainly can fill the bill in terms of the third requirement; it's unusual enough to not be mistaken for any other watch, and it's certainly not a watch that any owner need worry about seeing on someone else's wrist. However, it manages to be different without looking like it's doing so just for the sake of being different, and the fact that the design is noticeable without feeling attention-seeking, is a huge plus in making the concept of a connection to the spirit of a 19th century chronometer maker plausible.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e2a2cdbf-4748-4064-a80b-f8e261fbd4f8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In many instances this kind of watch is visually impressive and technically interesting as well but not especially practical to wear on an every day basis. Of course, one of the purposes of a marine chronometer historically was to run accurately with as little rate variation as possible, for days and weeks at a time, so the idea of a chronometer that you only wear on special occasions is kind of counter to the whole spirit of the thing. The Chronomètre FB 1 is actually a watch I can see wearing, if not every day, then at least with much more frequency than you'd ordinarily associate with a high end, very small batch complicated watch with high end finishing, and a number of out-of-the ordinary mechanical solutions.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e700f7a6-e9f4-47ed-8464-cfe15d4d9831"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The exterior of the watch and the wearing experience are in this case very much dictated by the design of the movement and its level of finishing – in that sense, you could say that the Chronomètre FB 1 wears its heart on its sleeve. In fact, the watch clearly is intended to make the movement a part of not just the overall design, but of the actual wearing experience; the Chronomètre FB 1 has a very well integrated open dial showing the one minute tourbillon carriage, and the 1:1 gearing by means of which it drives the center seconds hand. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["357570d0-f971-4695-a95f-b6da396537d1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_left"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The view through the caseback isn't a primary aspect of the wearing experience <i>per se,</i> but in the case of the Chronomètre FB 1, it's certainly value added and then some, giving you a compelling show if you have the watch off your wrist and on a bedside nightstand. The level of finish is excellent and the overall design beautifully balanced, with three circular elements – the base of the <i>fusée </i>cone, the base of the mainspring barrel, and the tourbillon – centered around a very elegantly shaped cock for the tourbillon carriage. The <i>fusée </i>cone is at 3:00 and you can see the crown wheel at 6:00 – remember, when you wind a watch with a <i>fusée, </i>you're actually winding the chain off the mainspring barrel onto the cone, which is why the click is on the <i>fusée </i>as well. You can also see a Maltese Cross stopworks on the mainspring barrel, which restricts the available power reserve from the mainspring to the section that offers the best delivery of energy (a common feature in chronometers and high grade pocket watches as well, by the way).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["fcbf93f5-9e36-41ac-b1b9-a93a2a9b297a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>You can also clearly see the four timing weights on the freesprung balance, as well as the Breguet overcoil balance spring. In fact, the Chronomètre FB 1 is a veritable museum of all the features of a high grade chronometer pocket watch: freesprung balance with overcoil spring, chain-and-<i>fusée, </i>stopworks, and a longer-than-average power reserve, with power reserve indication – and, of course, a tourbillon. That it's a combination of both marine chronometer and portable watch elements is, I think, not so much a mark against the FB 1 as it is a recognition that it's not a copy-paste of a marine chronometer, but a wristwatch that is influenced by the marine chronometer in particular, and the history of precision mechanical horology in general.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bc8b2b65-83eb-4fce-bc00-d47330cb8687"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's worth mentioning, by the way, that on the wrist during the day and dial up at night on the nightstand, the Chronomètre FB 1 gained exactly three seconds a day, every day, steady as you please; stability of rate more than accuracy as such, is of course the hallmark of a real precision timepiece.</p>\n\n<p>It's a cliché to say a large-ish watch is \"suprisingly wearable\" but it's nonetheless true for the Chronomètre FB 1. More to the point, it's a watch obviously full of lavish high end watchmaking that also feels plausible as a frequent companion on the wrist – an unusual and unexpected benefit of its exhaustive cataloguing of all the most essential elements of precision timekeeping from the horological Age Of Heroes. </p>\n\n<p><i>Full specs can be found </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-chopard-group-launches-la-chronometrie-ferdinand-berthoud-and-fb-1-a-marine-chronometer-for-the/" target=\"_blank\"><i>in our in-depth introduction</i></a><i>; see the </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.ferdinandberthoud.ch/en//" target=\"_blank\"><i>FB 1 at ferdinandberthoud.ch.</i></a><i> Price, $222,890, available by application via request for private meeting. Contact </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/\"mailto:contact@ferdinandberthoud.ch/" target=\"\"><i>c</i>ontact@ferdinandberthoud.ch</a> for more.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"9fb3ba73-afc8-46bc-9262-b3af47c0cafd","container_id":4730,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1503502907922-xl983dcavnc-b5ebfdeaee3f84a22726aec770106651/hero.jpg","width":4935,"height":2776,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2017-08-23T12:33:26.138-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:12:20.335-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1503502907922-xl983dcavnc-b5ebfdeaee3f84a22726aec770106651/hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ferdinand-berthoud-chronometre-fb-1-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1","tags":[]},{"id":4722,"slug":"bulgari-octo-finissimo-automatique-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra-Thin Automatique","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-08-30T12:09:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-08-18T14:55:00.531-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:32.744-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>The ultimate ultra-thin turns out to be ultra wrist-friendly too.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":82277,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra-Thin Automatique made a very big splash at Baselworld last March, and with good reason: it's another technical feather in Bulgari's cap, housing the caliber BVL 138, which is the new record holder for the world's thinnest automatic movement. The AP 2120/Vacheron Constantin 1120/JLC 920 continues to be the world's thinnest full-rotor automatic, as it has been since 1967, which gives you a sense of how rare it is to see new records set in extra-flat watchmaking. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d86071cb-8dc8-483f-a848-048e7d1325cf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bulgari-octo-finissimo-automatique-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">Our first impressions of both versions of the Octo Finissimo Ultra-Thin Automatique</a> were extremely positive – on either a strap or a bracelet, the watch is unbelievably light and slim, and the faceted titanium case design captures all the traditional charm of an ultra-thin wristwatch while feeling very contemporary at the same time. It's still true, though, that you can discover things about a watch after wearing it for an extended period of time that aren't immediately apparent when you just pick it up and handle it at a trade show – no matter how strong the first impression, it's still just a first impression.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A refresher on the basics: the watch is 40mm in diameter and 5.15mm thick, with sapphire crystals front and back, and the whole job of the case is really to express both the traditional appeal of ultra-thin watchmaking, and, at the same time, to keep the whole thing forward-looking enough to appeal to a broader audience. Not for nothing is ultra-thin watchmaking something that the majority of people looking for a luxury mechanical watch don't consider; these watches are indisputably elegant, and making ultra-thin movements and cases that are suitable for them is difficult enough that it's sometimes described as a sort of separate complication in its own right. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>However, historically they've also been as delicate as they look, with little to nothing in the way of water resistance, a need for more frequent servicing than you would expect for a non-ultra-thin movement, and a need for specialist watchmakers capable of working within the absurdly demanding tolerances characteristic of ultra flat watches – not just in the movement per se, but in the case, dial and hands as well, where there's just no spare headroom at all.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["824e52d3-fd80-4bb4-9217-393e0f0cf465"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is where the Octo Finissimo Ultra-Thin really shines. Just about every other ultra-thin watch I've ever worn, with few exceptions, has felt a bit fragile; you're always aware that you have something on that was designed to push the boundaries of flatness, not robustness (or accuracy, for that matter) and that you serve yourself and the watch best by remembering to take a little extra care when handling it. One of the few exceptions to this I can think of are the Royal Oak Jumbo and the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-overseas-ultra-thin-and-some-highly-subjective-thoughts-on-the-perfect-watch/" target=\"_blank\">Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin</a>, but even then, those two watches have such highly finished and polished cases and bracelets that again, you feel like you need to take a little extra care wearing them.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Octo Finissimo Ultra-Thin, on the other hand, seems to make no such demands at all. I'm not sure what it is about it that makes it so easy to wear – well, first of all, there's the titanium case, which at 40mm x 5.15mm is remarkably light and comfortable. Then there's the finish – unlike the jewel-like facets of the Jumbo or the Overseas, the entire watch is an even, matte grey; it feels very utilitarian but at the same time very clean and sculptural. It comes on either a strap or a bracelet and interestingly enough, on a strap it feels a bit more like a conventional ultra-thin watch; certainly still very easy to wear and definitely still not a watch that wants to be treated gingerly, but it's really on its matching titanium bracelet, I think, that the Octo Finissimo Ultra-Thin comes into its own.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["a5eaf854-81c2-4609-8c2d-0fde275d5df4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e93dbd5d-b7f8-46b1-b31d-87667561dd0f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The industrial-chic design of the Octo Finissimo Ultra-Thin really encourages you to wear it. During the week I had it on, it felt incredibly natural to wear every day; one of those watches that you just put on and go. Light, warm, and comfortable, it kept excellent time and I had no hesitation about wearing it while at the same time doing everything from working at my desk (often, I'll take off whatever watch I'm wearing while writing in order to avoid scratching the clasp or buckle on the desk surface) to washing dishes, folding laundry, wandering around New York, camera and notebook in hand, chasing stories, and what have you. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["0c2d140f-1006-467a-b4db-1f9392902713"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["61d4ec29-1d24-4be3-9aed-f3ceb45a09af"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It was a quite delightful and interesting daily companion to have when spending time with other watch enthusiasts as well; unusual but at the same time very inviting, with of course, the added pleasure of being able to share the experience of Bulgari's caliber BVL 138 Finissimo movement (2.23mm x 36.6mm; a somewhat large diameter for an ultra-thin watch but the extra diameter is probably necessary in a watch where you have both a 60-hour power reserve, and a platinum micro-rotor and automatic winding train in the same plane as the mainplate.)</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>My feelings about the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra-Thin after spending a week with it were really pretty straightforward: I liked it. I liked it a lot, and I liked the fact that despite its cooly urbane, rather postmodern physical design and monochrome palette, it somehow became a very warm presence and the last thing I'd ever have expected from an ultra-thin watch: it's a great every day watch. Water resistances is 30 meters so it's not an every day watch to the extent that you could take it diving (at 30m I wouldn't necessarily wear it swimming either) but in just about every other respect it really came across as a go anywhere, do anything watch. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1be8c474-feeb-4998-bc02-2b961fbeaa0e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is a very interesting direction for Bulgari stylistically; this kind of design is a bit of a departure for them – you think of Bulgari and you think of bold, almost Imperial Roman-feeling design work, heavy on the precious metals, with an overt celebration of opulence for its own sake. Here, you get the characteristic Bulgari clarity of design, but coupled with a toned-down stealth-luxury feel that has an almost German/Bauhaus feel. The fact that things like the dial fonts and complex case geometry keep it connected to the Bulgari world, however, means that it feels like a natural addition to Bulgari's watchmaking lineup, rather an a one-off or an aberration, and it'll be interesting to see where Bulgari goes with this next.</p>\n\n<p><i>The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatique: on a titanium bracelet, $13,900; on a strap, $12,800. Movement, caliber BVL 138 Finissimo, automatic winding via a platinum micro-rotor; decorated with Cotes de Genève, chamfered bridges, and a circular-grained mainplate; 2.23mm thick x 36.60mm, 21,600 V/H, 60-hour power reserve. Case, 40mm in sandblasted titanium, transparent case-back, 5.15mm thick; titanium crown with ceramic insert; water-resistant to 30m; titanium dial, black hands with PVD treatment; titanium bracelet with folding clasp or black alligator leather with titanium pin buckle. See Bulgari's timepiece collections </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.bulgari.com/en-us/#\" target=\"_blank\"><i>online at Bulgari.com.</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"23261f6c-c8b9-4b41-b29e-7161db65e48a","container_id":4722,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1503080679757-u500opjt7oa-2e3c50fc2a52c087e03f7b4e4030c14c/hero.jpg","width":5050,"height":2841,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2017-08-18T14:55:00.565-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:12:38.847-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1503080679757-u500opjt7oa-2e3c50fc2a52c087e03f7b4e4030c14c/hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bulgari-octo-finissimo-automatique-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra-Thin Automatique","tags":[]},{"id":4645,"slug":"tudor-black-bay-chronograph-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Tudor Black Bay Chronograph","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-07-19T11:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-07-13T12:48:36.903-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:32.903-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>Do a movement from Breitling, and a design that mixes vintage dive watch and chronograph details, add up to a winning watch?</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":159747,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Tudor Black Bay Chronograph was <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tudor-black-bay-chronograph-caliber-mt5813-breitling-collaboration/" target=\"_blank\">first shown at Baselworld 2017</a>, and right away it was the center of a great deal of attention and not a small amount of controversy. </p>\n\n<p>First of all, it was the very first Tudor chronograph to use the Breitling B01 chronograph movement, which was a startling move to say the least, and one which few if any outside Breitling and Tudor saw coming. The movement is an excellent one technically; many in the industry praised its overall engineering and watchmaker-friendly design when it first debuted, and all of the excellent technical properties of this modern, column wheel, vertical clutch controlled chronograph are obviously present in the Tudor version, but it was still a bit of a surprise.</p>\n\n<p>Secondly, there was the design, which combines elements of both vintage diver and chronograph watches – there are plenty of watches that combine features of both types of watches, but there seemed to be some feeling among vintage Tudor purists that these design domains should remain distinct from each other.</p>\n\n<p>And finally, of course, there was the question of the hands, and whether or not the snowflake hour hand was a less-than-terrific idea for a chronograph. Let's take a closer look at the watch, and how it fared during A Week On The Wrist.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["6863b14d-e6c0-41a1-a48b-fbf475618c06"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>First a quick refresher on the movement. The version of the B01 as modified and used by Tudor is called MT5813 and there are some significant differences between the base movement and the Tudor version. Most notably, the caliber MT5813 has a free-sprung adjustable mass balance and uses a silicon balance spring. A free-sprung balance should be less susceptible to variation in rate over time and silicon provides much better resistance to the adverse effects of external magnetic fields on a watch as well. There is shock protection on both the balance staff and the escape wheel. It's a relatively fast-beat modern movement, at 28,800 vph and in general gives the impression of a mechanism that should tolerate anything you can reasonably expect to throw at it. One other modification: the caliber MT5813 has a 45 minute, rather than a 30 minute, chronograph register.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["146ec806-a64e-4f57-b309-3071079f7013"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ced5119c-29d4-47e8-94b5-9b8f66f52495"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The first impression I got when I picked up the Black Bay Chronograph at Baselworld was of impressive solidity, if a fair amount of heft too. The case and bracelet both have a very attractive sculpted quality with the bevels on the lugs doing much to add some elegance to what otherwise might be a somewhat stolid design. That touch as well as the details added by such features as the knurling on the screw down chronograph pushers, as well as the engraved tachymeter scale on the (non-rotating) bezel help keep the watch feeling pleasantly overbuilt without seeming excessively static. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["3bc2751a-ee99-4c14-a4c9-75292f56fc07"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The dial and hands are as you would expect from Tudor/Rolex: very cleanly done technically, extremely legible, and in general quite well executed. If you like the snowflake hands on the non-chronograph Black Bay models, you'll like them here (leaving aside for the moment the question of the degree to which the snowflake hour hand may obscure the 45-minute chronograph register). The dial has a subtle grained finish that extends into the sunken sub-dials and again, the texture helps keep the whole composition feeling warm and approachable. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b6b68b59-15ae-4294-8452-42214eac3338"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2f0c680a-e1d5-49a7-805c-46b80c172d51"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The bracelet and clasp are amazing. There is absolutely no play whatsoever in between the links, and operating the fliplock clasp gives the same pleasurable sense of interaction with a precision piece of machinery that, say, operating the film advance lever on a vintage Leica provides. Unlike many clasps this one feels specifically engineered not just for functional excellence but for tactile pleasure as well (of course to some extent the two go hand in hand). Thanks to the solidity of the bracelet the watch though slightly on the heavier side sits very comfortably on the wrist, with a sense of mass to be sure, but mass kept well controlled. I'm reluctant to say \"built like a tank\" both because it is a cliché and because there have been some pretty terrible tanks (<i>Kugelpanzer </i>ball tank,<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kugelpanzer/" target=\"_blank\"> I'm looking at you</a>) but in this case the cliché is apt.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["bf0bbd49-5db2-4c01-9b55-c1c81a96fdd7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2097a4e7-84f7-40c7-bed5-43785afadf7c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["838bd4b4-79f4-478b-ad83-38691315590f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>During the week I wore the Tudor Black Bay Chronograph, I never ceased to find it an extremely satisfying watch to wear in many respects. It kept excellent time (gaining about one and a half seconds per day, which is Superlative Chronometer level stuff, thanks to the well-designed and well-set-up regulating system) and was a comfortable fit with everything from jeans and a t-shirt to a button up shirt and jacket, though the thickness of the Black Bay Chronograph was a bit of a challenge even for the fairly loose-fitting cuffs of a Brooks Brothers shirt (case dimensions are 41mm x 14.9mm). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Stylistically, the Black Bay Chronograph is a mixture of elements from both vintage Tudor dive watch and chronograph production, including the riveted link bracelet seen on some Tudor Submariners (and of course the snowflake hour hand) as well as the general design of the screw down pushers, crown, and case guards from the Tudor Oysterdate chronographs. The combination works well from a design standpoint, and there's nothing aesthetically dissonant about seeing these design cues together, with all the pieces contributing to the overall sport-vintage vibe.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["844f5777-717a-4a07-8d1f-6653d3c04a4a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Operating the chronograph is perhaps more of an exercise in well-executed technical functionality than sybaritic tactile pleasure. On the sample I had, a little additional effort seemed necessary to push the start button through the detent but let-off was crisp and positive (and, let's remember, being able to deploy that well-worn horological cliché \"buttery smooth\" seriously generally requires spending more money). </p>\n\n<p>Additionally, the screw-down crowns on the pushers were very easy and exact to operate – one of the most noticeable differences between a watch with high quality casing components and one without, is the ease with which things like screw-down crowns can be engaged or disengaged. If the start-stop action was a bit stiff (though in no way rough or imprecise) the threads engaged on the winding crown and pushers with wonderful smoothness. This along with the very clean machining of the case, and the strongly and precisely made bracelet, all went to reinforce the impression of handling and wearing a piece of carefully thought through, sturdy machinery.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["006f3183-d0bd-42fb-828a-f3fcd1d99a77"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now to the meat of the question with the Black Bay Chronograph, the $64,000 question as it were. Does the snowflake hour hand block read off of the 45 minute subdial to such a degree that it constitutes a truly unacceptable design flaw? </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["20e842e2-4caf-45bd-b2f5-fded4cbf1a30"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Putting dive watch-legible hands on a chronograph is inherently challenging. Not for nothing are chronograph hands typically on the thinner side, the better to optimize legibility, irrespective of time of day or interval timed. The problem of balancing legibility of the hour and minute hands, with readability of the chronograph, has interested watch designers intermittently probably for as long as chronographs have existed. By and large watch designers have generally accepted that some degree of compromise to one or the other is unavoidable, and inherent to traditional chronograph design (although the issue can certainly be minimized).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_left"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Different layouts can do away with the problem entirely, and watches from the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-de-bethune-db29-maxichrono-tourbillon/" target=\"_blank\">DeBethune Maxichrono</a>, to the recent AngeGraphe caliber as used in the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/faberge-visionnaire-chronograph-hands-on/" target=\"_blank\">Fabergé Visionnaire Chronograph</a> and the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/singer-track1-chronograph-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">Singer Track1</a> (as well as the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bring-a-loupe-january-6-2017/" target=\"_blank\">venerable Mido Multicenter Chronograph</a>) have experimented with the idea of placing the chronograph minute hand on the central axis as well. This of course solves one problem but creates another in that legibility can still suffer, but for different reasons (it can require effort to adapt to a different type of display; reading the time generally is more difficult, and so on). </p>\n\n<p>Nonetheless, the search for solutions does reveal that the quest for a perfect answer to the problem of legible chronograph read-off continues in mechanical horology, and underscores that it's a problem everyone has to think about when designing one. So let's talk turkey about the snowflake hour hand in the Black Bay Chronograph.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Yes, it blocks the read-off of the 45 minute register more than I would like. However in daily use, it turns out the problem is actually a minimal one at worst.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["3ac4891c-49b7-40c0-aee2-338b93fa7a33"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Obviously it's only between 2:00 and 4:00 AM or PM that the snowflake hand is in position to block the minutes subdial. Even in those positions, it's only an issue if you are timing intervals longer than roughly 23 minutes (at 4PM) or 36 minutes (at 2PM) as the snowflake only moves across the lefthand side of the dial. And even <i>then, </i>you can still read off the minutes most of the time thanks to the diamond shape of the snowflake, which only blocks a significant segment of the minutes track relatively briefly (at 4PM for instance, the tick marks from 22 to 29 minutes elapse time are blocked). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9b82d1ce-0930-41dc-b8cf-923ba8f2a93f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So basically you're really only looking at obstruction of immediate read-off of the minutes, if you are timing an elapsed time interval somewhere between 23 to 28 minutes long, or 36 to 45 minutes long, and it's somewhere near 2:00 or 4:00 PM, which is a fairly narrow range in which the snowflake itself is an issue. Yes at 3PM, the 33 and 34 minute counters are blocked but you can actually see every single other minute mark. Is a snowflake hand ideal on a chronograph from an absolute legibility perspective? No. Is it in real life going to be a problem for all our laundry cycle, pasta-cooking, egg-timing needs? Very unlikely and I don't think after a week it was ever once an issue for me (I don't drive at a constant speed down a measured mile very often and those three things are what I mostly use mechanical chronos for these days). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9c1386be-f57b-430d-9478-1f24af845a9e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In practice, I didn't find the hour hand to be problematic. It's worth noting as well that there are quite a few <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.audemarspiguet.com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak-offshore/26703ST.OO.A027CA.01//" target=\"_blank\">modern diver's chronograph watches</a> and all of them <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.omegawatches.com/watches/seamaster/planet-ocean-600m/co-axial-master-chronometer-chronograph-455-mm/21530465101002//" target=\"_blank\">represent a compromise</a>, to some degree, between getting the high degree of visibility for the hands that's essential for a diver's watch, and making the hands narrow enough that they don't obscure the chronograph sub-registers. </p>\n\n<p>Over a week, I thoroughly enjoyed having the watch on. It feels very well made indeed (much more so than many other chronograph watches at this price point, maybe most) it has a very attractive, retro-tough-guy design, and inside is a Tudor-tweaked version of one of the most technically well-thought-out chronograph movements out there. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["92fbc79b-c561-47b0-8fb2-b66910b5354c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>At $5050 it seems an excellent value to put it mildly, and unless you foresee needing to know exactly the number of elapsed minutes of events of 23 to 28 minute's duration at 4PM/AM, or 36 to 45 minute's duration at 2PM/AM, you're probably good. In my case this would only be a deal breaker if I were timing a 45 minute dryer load at 2:00 or a 36 minute washing machine load at 4:00 and I found it pretty easy to live with that IRL, as the kids say. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Highly recommended, with the minor caveats noted. Find out all about it <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.tudorwatch.com/watches/new-black-bay-chrono/m79350-0001/" target=\"_blank\">at tudorwatch.com.</a></p>\n\n<p><i>The Tudor Black Bay Chronograph: case, bracelet and clasp in stainless steel; case dimensions 41mm x 14.9mm. Screw-down pushers and crown with black anodized aluminum stem tube. Water resistance, 200 meters. Domed sapphire crystal. Movement, caliber MT5813, modified Breitling B01 with Tudor rotor, freesprung adjustable mass balance, silicon balance spring and escape wheel; vertical clutch column wheel chronograph design. 70 hour power reserve. Price: on a brown leather strap, $4,725; on the (excellent) steel bracelet as shown, $5,050. Both come with an additional woven blue fabric strap.</i></p>\n\n<p><i>Update, 16:46 EST 7/19: wrist shot added.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"bf2c5ebb-8e30-4f4a-bda9-8d176f6b630c","container_id":4645,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1500381808536-e5keqoe4qhr-9a745dbba8b728a0e34e537091a10b0b/aaaa.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2017-07-13T12:48:36.944-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:12:55.446-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1500381808536-e5keqoe4qhr-9a745dbba8b728a0e34e537091a10b0b/aaaa.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tudor-black-bay-chronograph-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Tudor Black Bay Chronograph","tags":[]},{"id":4573,"slug":"the-rolex-sea-dweller-reference-126600","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Rolex Sea-Dweller Reference 126600","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-07-06T11:38:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-06-13T15:10:29.250-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:33.069-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>Everything you ever wanted to know about the new Rolex Sea-Dweller, and probably a lot that you didn't.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106669543001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":291212,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Rolex Sea-Dweller reference 126600 was announced at Baselworld 2017, in celebration of the 50th anniversary of the model (launched in 1967). The Sea-Dweller is one of Rolex's most important, though arguably least commercial products – a true tool watch catering to true professionals. This latest incarnation is very much a Sea-Dweller, but there are many updates, including some that are technically minor but emotionally significant departures from models that came before. In this A Week On The Wrist review, I'll examine those and try to unpack just what they mean. Also, we'll talk about what this watch is meant to do, and what it's not meant to do.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Rolex And The Pursuit of Waterproofness"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["491009e9-2f83-4fbc-8693-1be1207bdcff"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/inside-rolex/" target=\"_blank\">my detailed look at Rolex from 2015</a>, I talk about founder Hans Wildorf's pursuit of three different properties that would come to define Rolex watches: precision timekeeping, an automatic movement, and finally, resistance to water. Why was this so important to Wilsdorf? Because prior to the introduction of the Oyster in 1926, watches (then mostly of the pocket variety) were often seen at sporting events, but always on the sidelines. </p>\n\n<p>However, Wilsdorf believed there was a real market for watches that could be worn during active sports by participants themselves. The early Oyster cases featured the first fluted bezels used by Rolex, so that watchmakers could screw them in tighter to the case middle. Of course, the screw-down Oyster crown was an important innovation from the Rolex family that further allowed wearers of these watches to go deeper than ever before.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In 1953, Rolex and Blancpain both showed professional dive watches (which came first is debatable and therefore frequently debated) and the category that many of us love so much was born. While the Fifty Fathoms was discontinued decades ago before being reintroduced by the modern incarnation of Blancpain, the Submariner has remained a constant force in the watch world for over 60 years. When it was first shown, complete with its screw-down crown, luminous radium dial, and rotating bezel, one could expect water resistance up to an impressive (for that time) 100 meters. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["07649cef-e36f-46b0-bda5-f4d33a7cf475","0de5d733-0cf6-4300-a316-addb763816da"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Indeed, reference 6204 and the original \"big crown\" reference 6200 offered divers remarkably robust tool watches. The later 6205, 6536, and 6538 followed suit, as the did the later Submariners that we all know today. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["802d4c9e-da18-4efd-aaf1-53a955ed84f1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Before that though, Rolex produced what was arguably the <i>ne plus ultra</i> of pre-1950s dive watches as well, they just didn't have the Rolex name on the dial. Yes, some of the original Panerais – during this period created predominantly for Italian military divers – were made completely by Rolex, and feature Rolex cases and movements. It should be noted not all of the early Panerai wristwatches used Rolex movements and cases, but several of the earliest did and they remain very collectible – one such example is the tropical dial piece owned by John Goldberger and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-with-john-goldberger/" target=\"_blank\">seen in his episode of Talking Watches</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>The \"Submariner\" wasn't always intended to be the Submariner, and just as Rolex experimented with names for the Daytona and other now well-known models, there was a time when the Rolex diver could have been called \"Sub-Acqua.\" A few early examples with this name have surfaced over the years such <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/on-the-block-a-first-series-rolex-submariner-but-with-a-different-name-on-the-dial/" target=\"_blank\">as this one at Antiquorum in 2013</a>.</p>","title":"Did You Know?","images":["18fd4f8a-1d30-409a-8455-1d1646a8152b"],"alignment":"left"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Rolex continued to produce the Submariner in a host of variants without interruption, and as you all know, continues to produce it today. In the first couple of decades of consumer and professional dive watch production, there were certainly other serious dive watches out there, but many of them though impressive technically were not widely distributed, and few reached the level of commercial or professional success of the Sub. Omega's Seamaster line is truly the Submariner's only contender in the 1960s for a readily available dive watch, and they should not be over looked – though the story of the Seamaster has far more tangents than that of the Submariner. But this story isn't about the Submariner, is it? Let's move on to the introduction of the <i>other</i> Rolex dive watch, which came about 14 years later.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Introduction Of The OTHER Rolex Dive Watch"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["76094d5a-e63f-4250-8f17-fd2d2616ac4e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In many ways, the Sea-Dweller is the best expression of Rolex as a brand. From its very beginning, the model showed a preoccupation on Rolex's part with extensive over-engineering, and performance above all else. Remember, Rolex already had a more than capable dive watch in the 5512 and 5513 Submariners, and yet it wanted to build something even tougher – a watch meant for those who not only worked, but in some cases, actually lived underwater. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["e85e7db4-f4bf-497c-b828-75a8c56294b1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Sea-Dweller was born in an era when the next great stage of exploration – of extreme environments never before visited – was just beginning. Man had not yet been to the moon. It was just a decade before that Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay scaled Everest for the first time; a few short years later, in 1960, the bathyscaphe <i>Trieste </i>successfully descended to the deepest point in the ocean. It was also during this time that the first permanent research stations were established in Antarctica, and that <i>Nautilus,</i> the first nuclear submarine, traveled under the Polar ice cap to the North Pole.</p>\n\n<p>This was an era of scientific discovery, and the world was captivated by these feats of perseverance and determination to the point where the dive into the Marianas Trench landed Bob Walsh and Jacques Piccard on the cover of <i>Life Magazine</i>, arguably the magazine of record for most Americans at the time. These years of prosperity led to some of mankind's greatest explorations, and it was these feats by the greatest generation that captured the minds and hearts of the baby boomers. There was simply nothing more exciting than exploration in the late 1950s and early 1960s, whether of outer space or the deepest oceans, and this is why it makes perfect sense that during this period, Rolex developed the Sea-Dweller.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Two Experimental Rolex Dive Watches, 52 Years Apart"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["daa3a6d3-5451-418a-818f-51bea7707a0e","d0b13cff-17c3-43a0-844f-41c7db25d63f"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It should be noted that the Sea-Dweller did come after the Deep-Sea Special, the watch clamped to the outside of the <i>Trieste </i>when it descended to the bottom of the Challenger Deep. But that watch was enormous – completely unwearable – and of course, it wasn't even really designed to be worn in the first place. The same can be said for another experimental watch made by Rolex in 2012, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/live-photos-of-james-camerons-rolex/" target=\"_blank\">the Deepsea Challenge</a>, a monster 51mm mega-dive watch that James Cameron strapped to the outside of his vessel when he recreated the historic 1960 dive. The Sea-Dweller wasn't devised as a one-time use tool, or a prototype from which other technology could be taken – it was made for the most serious divers in the world, and meant to be worn daily, over a long period of time.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>Jake Ehrlich from RolexMagazine.com has a wonderful history of Scott Carpenter's time wearing a Rolex both as an astronaut and an aquanaut. He even interviewed Carpenter himself in a 2008 podcast, which <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.bullettrain.com/podcast/ScottCarpenterInterview.mp3/" target=\"_blank\">you can listen to here</a>.</p>","title":"Listen To Scott Carpenter Talk About SEALAB In His Own Words","images":["edcc1b5e-44e3-42e3-a888-2df7c2e05416"],"alignment":"right"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As mentioned, the connection between outer space and \"inner space,\" (a term that was coined by the Eisenhower administration after the successful dives of <i>Trieste</i>) was a real one. In fact, one of NASA's most famous names played a part in both. Scott Carpenter, one of the original seven Mercury astronauts and the pilot of the second manned orbital flight by an American, in Aurora 7, took leave from NASA in 1965 to participate in the U.S. Navy's \"Man-in-the-Sea\" Project called SEALAB. (Because hey, isn't that what most of us would do if given a leave of absence from NASA?) As a team leader for SEALAB II off the coast of La Jolla, California in the summer of 1965, Carpenter and his team members spent 30 days living and working on the ocean floor conducting studies from a seafloor habitat at 205 feet underwater. </p>\n\n<p>With Carpenter was Bob Barth, who was the only man to participate in the three different SEALAB missions. His Submariner reference 5512 was offered for sale a few years back though the seller made no mention of how important this Submariner and its owner were for the development of the Sea-Dweller.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b57ab2c4-fcd4-4fd7-8a99-f29ef583a656"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In an <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hodinkee-exclusive-and-in-depth-bob-barths-historic-sealab-r/" target=\"_blank\">interview conducted by Jason Heaton back in 2012,</a> Barth tells of how he and his fellow crew members, while undergoing decompression in a decompression chamber, would sometimes hear a quick \"pop\" only to find that the crystal of someone's watch – Submariners, Blancpains, and Tudors, mostly – had come off. The basic problem was the helium in the breathing gasses used in SEALAB. Helium forms very small molecules, which can over time penetrate the seals of a dive watch and build up in the case. Divers would spend several days in a decompression chamber, where air pressure would gradually be lowered from that at working depth, to air pressure at sea level. The helium would not be able to leak back out of the watch case quickly enough and the result was increasingly greater pressure inside the watch case – often, enough to pop the crystal off. It was the SEALAB missions that first called for a helium escape valve, which was introduced within the Rolex range on the Sea-Dweller and remains a staple of this model to this day. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>There are a small batch of early Sea-Dwellers that have only one line of red text on the dial. These \"Single Red\" Sea-Dwellers are exceedingly rare, feature a depth range of 500m instead of 600m, and often times do not have a helium escape valve. These are prototypes and generally fetch hundreds of thousands of dollars at auction, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/on-the-block-three-of-our-favorites-from-tomorrows-sale-at-sothebys-ny/" target=\"_blank\">such as this one did in 2013</a>.</p>","title":"The Exceptions To The Rule","images":["8698bef5-edfc-4a30-a147-41cd9059d34b"],"alignment":"left"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Sea-Dweller reference 1665 was introduced in 1967 as Rolex's biggest, baddest, most capable dive watch. It was water resistant to 610 meters, roughly double what a 5513 was rated to at the time, and featured two lines of red text reading \"Sea-Dweller / Submariner 2000\". The crown was a Trip-Lock; the watch featured a date (useful to saturation divers who could spend days in a decompression chamber) and it was the first time a Rolex diver would feature the complication, predating the 1680 Submariner ever so briefly. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The crystal was domed and cyclops-less. The bracelet had an extension clasp that allowed the owner to quickly open up the bracelet to allow it to fit on the outside of a diving suit. This is how the Sea-Dweller was born and how it remained for some time (we would lose the red lettering in the mid 70s around the same time the 1680 lost its red from the dial) and over the years we would see continual improvements to water resistant engineering in Rolex's most professional line. That is, of course, until Rolex killed the Sea-Dweller as we know it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Semi-Sea-Dweller-Less Years"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ca45b629-c64b-4824-8ce9-e1e6793fb92b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now, Rolex is nothing if not consistent. And to think that one of the mighty five Rolex sports watches introduced in the 1950s and 60s could be effectively killed off is hard to believe. But it happened, sort of. From 2009 to 2014, there was no Sea-Dweller in the Rolex catalog. Okay, so there was the 44mm Sea-Dweller Deep-Sea, which took the concept of a pro tool diver even further, with its downright silly 3,900 meter depth rating. But along with it came an oversized 44mm case, and then in 2014, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-new-rolex-deepsea-d-blue-dial-edition-live-photos/" target=\"_blank\">the gradient blue to black dial of the \"D-Blue\" edition</a>. </p>\n\n<p>It was the first time in recent years that Rolex creating a special dial for one of its existing sports watches, and it did not sit well with everyone. Still, the D-Blue was one of the hottest watches in the world when it was announced, and the traditional black dial 44mm, titanium caseback Sea-Dweller Deep-Sea is very much a Rolex – it's just that many yearned for a serious diver in a traditional 40mm size. </p>\n\n<p>At Baselworld 2014, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-seadweller-4000-reference-116600/" target=\"_blank\">that's what we got with the Sea-Dweller 4000</a>. Reference 116600 was 40mm in diameter, featured a cyclops-less crystal and ceramic bezel, and was rated to 4000 feet, or 1,220 meters. This may not have been a super exciting reference, but it filled a void that had been vacant for half a decade and all was well with the world of Rolex divers. And then came Baselworld 2017.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A Week On The Wrist With The Rolex Sea-Dweller Reference 126600"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["01f50291-726b-4dfb-b121-f14c3125b570"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Rolex at Baselworld 2017 was a little anti-climactic for some, at least relative to 2016. There wasn't an A-list mega introduction like there was last year with the Daytona. Instead there was an update to the least well-known and certainly least understood tool watch made by Rolex. </p>\n\n<p>The new Sea-Dweller came as a surprise in some ways but not others. Of course, 2017 marks the 50th anniversary of the introduction of the first Sea-Dweller 1665. But also it's important to note that we got a whole new Sea-Dweller in 2014 – that's a heck of a short run for a Rolex reference when you remember that the first Sea-Dweller was made from 1967 all the way up until the 1980s. The 5513 ran from the early '60s through the late '80s. </p>\n\n<p>This is Rolex, dammit, and things shouldn't change too quickly – but they did. Though the 116600 Sea-Dweller 4000 was a great watch, with its cyclops-less crystal, 40mm case, and ceramic bezel, Rolex replaced it just three years after it was introduced. </p>\n\n<p>The new 126600 is very much a Sea-Dweller though, don't be confused about that. It has a helium escape valve just as it should and it's water resistant to 1,300 feet deeper than the Burj Khalifa, the world's tallest building, is high. The thing is incredible, undoubtedly. However we gained three millimeters in diameter from 2014 to 2017, and that means it's no longer the same case size as the original. Further we have a cyclops window on the crystal, which if you're a Sea-Dweller guy, could be seen as something of a tragedy. Let's go through the reference 126600 in detail, now that I've had a chance to spend a week wearing it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Case"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["ea65ec9f-a4c7-4b35-a751-b8718871a754"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Forty three millimeters isn't huge. But it's not small either. It's a full 3mm larger in diameter than the previous generation Sea-Dweller, and well, all Sea-Dwellers that came before it. It remains 15mm thick (as measured by myself; case thickness is not a number Rolex shares), and while my first reaction to this upsizing of a historical tool watch is, \"gah, Rolex, why did you do that!?\" let's consider the following. </p>\n\n<p>The Sea-Dweller started at 40mm and stayed there at its original size for approximately <i>half a century</i>. The same can not be said for the Daytona, which went from 37mm to 40mm in the late 1980s, the Explorer II, which went from 40mm to 42mm in 2011, and the Explorer I, which upsized to 39mm in 2010. Even the Milgaus, when it was brought back to life, appeared in a larger size. </p>\n\n<p>The GMT-Master and Submariner were both born small (37mm) and quickly upsized to 40mm in the 1960s where they remain, more or less today. But if we have a Submariner at 40mm, doesn't it make sense that the more rugged and deeper rated Sea-Dweller is a little bigger? As much as it might frustrate many of us, it does seem to compute. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["bf35029b-75d6-4b1f-a054-99adc9014b56"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now that's not to say I like it. But one thing I've learned about the watch business is that there is always something for everyone, and I <i>know</i> that thousands of people out there are thrilled that the new SD is 43mm. In fact, in our introducing post from BaselWorld this year, there was a shocking amount of support <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-oyster-perpetual-sea-dweller-43mm-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">within the 187 comments about the larger size</a>. With the new size comes a larger lug width – 20mm to 22mm – though the new dimensions don't make the piece that outlandish on the wrist. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["990eb608-0fdc-42a7-bb62-44517526fd8c","d0b07eb6-057d-45dc-941d-f055b8045519"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Naturally, the build quality and finish of this solid block of 904L stainless steel is truly excellent, and you can see the sharp lines and intense polishing in the picture above. The helium escape valve is flush against the case side, and notice how crisp the brushing is on the ridges of the bezel. Of course, we have a Trip-Lock crown as well.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["3609c6f3-10c1-45dc-93c9-ddb9cce9db8f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now, about the depth rating. The Sea-Dweller is water resistant to 4,000 feet, or 1,220 meters. That is very, very deep. But it is the exact same depth that the previous generation SD was rated to, and that was three millimeters smaller. </p>\n\n<p>Four thousand feet is fantastically deep, but it has been brought up by some that if this new reference is larger and \"new and improved,\" why would the depth rating remain the same from a previous generation? It's a fair question perhaps, especially considering the fact that all Rolex watches go through a proprietary \"Oyster\" test using pressurized machines (borrowed from, you guessed it, COMEX) to ensure the watches are in fact rated to 10% deeper than what is printed on the dial. </p>\n\n<p>But what makes things even more curious is that Rolex actually tests their dive watches to a good 25% beyond what is printed on the dial. This means that Rolex could, in fact, have made the new reference 126600 rated to 5,000 feet without having to change much on the watch at all, and that might have put down some of the complaints about the larger case size – the new reference wouldn't have only been larger, but it would've been likely perceived as a more capable dive tool which is tough to argue with. (Of course all this is kind of abstract anyway; since 2001 only six people have ever scuba dived deeper than 300 meters, but we all know dive watch fans love overkill.) </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7e5872c3-9c34-42ee-b5a1-409d015f3780"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What's interesting here is that the Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller, which clocks in at just one millimeter larger than the new Sea-Dweller, is rated to an astonishing 12,800 feet using the Rolex Ring Lock system. Granted, the watch is not only 1mm larger than the Sea-Dweller, but also considerably thicker (though it uses a neat titanium caseback to save some weight – not found on the Sea-Dweller, new or old) however one would think if a patron was interested in a 43mm super diver, he'd simply take the next step and have the Deepsea in exchange for a little extra heft.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d640282f-ec53-4a1c-8737-b2cb08595de9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now, the dial here is something that few can complain about. For the first time since the 1970s, we have a Sea-Dweller with red on it. And it's not two lines of red text as we all imagined it might be, but instead, just a single line saying \"Sea-Dweller.\" As we've said, the earliest known examples of the reference 1665 Sea-Dweller featured only a single line of text in red on the dial; very few outside the deep dark world of vintage Rolex collecting know this. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"<p>Every now and then we'll get a signal from the Crown that says, \"Yes, guys, we know you're out there and we ARE paying attention.\" This single line of red text is one of those signals.</p>","source":""},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The \"Double-Red\" is a well-discussed and often mentioned vintage watch, the Single Red is not. It has been said there are as few as six known single red Sea-Dwellers, though a few more have been discovered <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/true-aquanaut-prototype-rolex-single-red-sea-dweller-recommended-reading/" target=\"_blank\">as recently as March of this year</a>. Now many collectors of old Rolex watches like to complain that the company that they love so much doesn't care about them – and in fact Rolex didn't become Rolex by selling to vintage collectors, but rather by selling new watches to the average person you meet on the street (all of them). Still, every now and then we'll get a signal from the crown that says \"Yes, guys, we know you're out there and we <i>are</i> paying attention.\" This single line of red text is one of those signals. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["9f6b5d8f-95a4-4635-848a-e895d19d5075"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The other not-so-noticeable difference between the dial of the new 126600 and the outgoing 116600 is that the old black dial had a satin finish and this new one is a little glossy. And with the upsizing of the case comes a slight upsizing of the Chromalight and white gold hour markers, and hands, to keep things in proportion. Again, this being Rolex, their Chromalight technology actually glows up to eight hours, which is twice as long as traditional SuperLuminova. Oh, and it glows blue.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b8b9d01c-ef1e-4a09-a6ac-138d11147c36"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Finally, on the front of the watch, you can see that the date window has a cyclops magnifier over it. This was the single most controversial change to the Sea-Dweller, even more so than the 43mm case, though perhaps some of the criticism is a little over the top. Not that I don't give credence to purists that complain over nuances – I'm usually one of them. But in this case, when asked about adding a cyclops to the crystal of the Sea-Dweller, a gentleman from Rolex simply stated, \"This watch is about functionality. A cyclops makes it easier for divers to see the date above and under water. Simple as that.\" Fair enough, really.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["31b236f3-c502-494b-8762-31d675db936d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>However the other side of the coin is this: how many people really use the Sea-Dweller as it's intended to be used, anyway? And if the little things matter so much to people and the Submariner already has the cyclops date window, why not just leave the Sea-Dweller alone? I see that side too, and if it were up to me, I'd say the Sea-Dweller should feature a no-cyclops crystal because that's how it was designed in the 1960s. That said, the same source told me that Rolex would've liked to use a cyclops on the Sea-Dweller all along but its crystal would not accept it – it was too thick and too domed for the cyclops to work properly. So in some way, the 126600 rights a wrong that has quietly nagged at Rolex since 1967. And of course, the Deepsea at one millimeter larger is still cyclops-less if it really bugs you. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_right"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Still, this response from Rolex is a little bit like Ferrari citing performance for its use of Formula 1-style transmissions over a three-pedal manual – yes, it's faster, but there a significant percentage of the sports car buying public that thinks we reached \"fast enough\" years ago and would trade .03 off their car's 0-60mph time if they could enjoy the feel of rowing their own gears. </p>\n\n<p>If Rolex really wanted to make the most accurate watch in the same way Ferrari wants to make the most high performing car, wouldn't the Sea-Dweller be quartz? Here in lies the great irony of Swiss watchmaking – they want to push performance and efficiency as far as possible, but not so far that they begin to play in a field where they are no longer the experts – basically until they begin sacrifice of any of their own traditions. If Ferrari, for example, was based in Geneva instead of Maranello, perhaps we'd see the new 812 Superfast with a six speed transmission and carburetors because \"that's how a <i>real</i> car should be made.\" </p>\n\n<p>But that's another story for another day. The new Sea-Dweller has a cyclops window, like it or not.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Bracelet"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["d6193239-dd49-4142-bade-f0912296cfe5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Ah, the bracelet, the one piece of any Rolex watch that is practically impervious to critique from anyone. What's there to say, really? The thing is a modern marvel. Rolex has long been at the forefront of bracelet engineering and indeed, they have a full team of dedicated engineers, scientists and craftsman in Geneva that ensure what they produce is the bar by which all other bracelets are measured. And yes, if you didn't know this already, Gay Freres, the maker of those incredible vintage bracelets you see not only on Rolex watches but also many others (including vintage Pateks) was acquired by Rolex some years back. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>Because this is HODINKEE, you can be sure that if you want to know more about the origins and variations of the Rolex Oyster bracelet, we have a story on it. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-oyster-bracelet-historical-perspectives/" target=\"_blank\">Enter at your own risk</a>.</p>","title":"Further Reading... On Bracelets","images":["66fdf06e-44f8-44bf-9b74-ddb115fa627a"],"alignment":"left"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The particulars of this new Sea-Dweller bracelet are this: it's 904L stainless steel (like the case) and made of solid links together with a taper at the buckle. These are flat brushed links, no center polishing (as you'll see on, say, the new Daytona). This bracelet has an \"Oysterlock\" clasp – Rolex's term for a fold-over clasp, and something the Sea-Dweller has had since its inception. As for the bracelet itself, it is all about functionality and comfort, though I will admit to some slight disappointment in the wear of the bracelet after a short period of time – I'll get to that shortly. First, the let's talk about special features of the bracelet. And this is Rolex after all so you have not one but two clever little tricks to make sure this bracelet works in any circumstance. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["95cbc92b-2d16-4466-a7cb-0c9c1487088f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The first is a system called Rolex Glidelock. This allows the wearer to adjust the bracelet from the clasp, at 2mm intervals, all the way up to 20mm. The second system, which is particular to Rolex dive watches, is called a Fliplock link, and this quickly extends the whole length of the bracelet by 27mm! Don't quite understand how this works? Fear not, we've created a gif for you.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b17857ad-3625-4d75-9ed5-45232e5cfb03"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Both of these systems operate just as you see above – without the use of a single tool. The Fliplock extension link is perhaps a little unsightly with its large, flat surface, but if you are trying to put this watch on over a dive suit at all, you likely don't care at all. This link attaches to the very last Oyster link before the bracelet hits the clasp. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9486e731-868f-4264-a638-0f15289e9eaf","78bd76d0-2f2f-4191-9c02-984404e82b76"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>These two systems make the Sea-Dweller bracelet tough to argue with from a functionality stand point. And the Oysters are notoriously comfortable to wear around daily. But something I've noticed on both my modern Rolex watches (Daytona and GMT-Master) and now this Sea-Dweller, is that the Oysterlock clasp can feel a little tinny at times, and when open, can rub against the bracelet links.</p>\n\n<p>This Sea-Dweller is a press unit, but it hasn't seen much action at all. The brushing work on the clasp itself is incredible. Look at it just looking cool and crisp and awesome on my wrist.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["415bfdf2-d10e-4397-afec-7e9f10bac82e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But, when you turn the watch a little further to see the link just above the folding clasp, you notice that there are some scuffs that are, well, just a little surprising. Now this isn't anything really offensive, and metal-on-metal wear is practically unavoidable, but still, seeing these marks on a brand new Oyster bracelet with little daily wear was not something I anticipated. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["7dc0419f-082b-41e9-b131-acc7e228d8c9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A few scuffs aside, the Rolex Oyster bracelet is still the best damn bracelet you can buy – there are other \"finer\" bracelets out there, no doubt, but few can match the comfort and quality seen here. When you add in these tool-less adjustments, you have something even better than before. Further proof that Rolex really doesn't leave good enough alone.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["5ce7361e-a2ba-497b-b4a2-77abe6b21c17"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now this is the least mentioned but arguably most important change to the Rolex Sea-Dweller for 2017. The caliber 3235 is Rolex's latest and greatest movement, featuring 14 new patents not seen on the 3135 used in the 2014 model year Sea-Dweller. The updates are noticeable and significant – that is, of course, if you actually care about watchmaking. Admittedly, most buyers of the Sea-Dweller do not, but I'm going to cover the updates anyway. The 3235 is based on an existing caliber – 3255, which was introduced in 2015 in the Rolex Day-Date 40. (The Day-Date is the flagship model for Rolex and it gets the new hotness first, almost without fail.) </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["afaa6ba4-225a-4f0c-a600-42823a9227c4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This new caliber has lots to offer – at the center of the advancements is the Chronergy escapement, a stream-lined version of the traditional Swiss lever escapement. The escape wheel is skeletonized to reduce inertia, and Rolex claims it is far more efficient this way. We also have components made of a nickel-phosphorus alloy, which make the movement significantly more resistant to magnetism than a traditional caliber, and of course, we have the in-house Rolex Parachrom balance spring (also amagnetic). The result is a power reserve of 70 hours (up from 40) and a movement that is rated to not only COSC standards but also to \"Superlative Chronometer\" standards of -2/+2 seconds per day, or roughly twice as precise as COSC. (The COSC also tests only movements whereas the Superlative Chronometer rating is for the entire watch). The Sea-Dweller is the very first sports watch to receive a caliber with these updates, and because this is Rolex, there is absolutely zero way you'd know it by looking at the watch because it's all hidden behind a hermetically sealed caseback. Lovely, isn't it?</p>\n\n<p>Again, most Sea-Dweller buyers likely care little for anti-magnetism, improved escapement geometry, and nickel-phosphorus alloys, but if you're buying a Rolex, you do care about efficiency and toughness, and the caliber 3235 has that in spades. Then again, so does the Day-Date 40mm, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-yellow-gold-rolex-day-date-40mm-reference-228238-83418/" target=\"_blank\">which you can read about here thanks to my colleague Jack Forster</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e6abaa02-dd46-46a2-9ea9-8a06de05ea09"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Other watches that could be seen as competition for the new Sea-Dweller fall into two categories for two very different types of users: the first is watches for those men and women who simply want a big, cool, sporty dive watch from a major brand. The second is for someone who actually will use the Sea-Dweller as it's intended, under water (and in a decompression chamber) for great lengths of time.</p>\n\n<p>In the first category, there are dozens of options from major brands. Think Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Omega Seamaster 300, maybe something from JLC or AP, even. The list goes on and on. These are all great watches, though I would say few have the permanence of the Sea-Dweller. Then again, I would venture to say that is the very appeal of all Rolex watches – you just know that in 30 years, your Rolex will be just as cool as it was the day you bought it. With the others, things come and go, but with Rolex, you're buying into a legacy. And sure, that red line of text might not last forever – same with the cyclops window or the 43mm case size – but you know the Sea-Dweller will always be around, and that's worth something to the type of person who is sentimental enough to believe that spending thousands of dollars on a mechanical watch is a good idea in the first place. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_left"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The other (far, far smaller) set of possible users, are people who are actual professional saturation divers and want a technical dive watch as a backup. For this crowd the competition comes from the likes of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/iwc-aquatimer-2000-meters-what-would-happen/" target=\"_blank\">the IWC Aquatimer 2000</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/just-because-a-hands-on-look-at-the-omega-seamaster-professional-ploprof-1200-live-pics/" target=\"_blank\">the Omega PloProf</a> – both great watches from major brands rated to the same depth or even deeper than the Sea-Dweller. Again, neither feel like they have the permanence of the Sea-Dweller, but they might be a little more funky and retro, and bright colors and rubber straps abound. A case could be made for <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.doxawatches.com/DOXA-SUB-collection.html/" target=\"_blank\">any number of Doxas</a>, as well, which have their own underwater history, and in some cases again are rated to even deeper than the Sea-Dweller. But, as <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hodinkee-exclusive-and-in-depth-bob-barths-historic-sealab-r/" target=\"_blank\">Captain Barth told Jason Heaton in 2012</a>, \"Most divers prefer to wear Rolex because they seem(ed) to be a little sturdier than anything else.\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And that's just it. The most severe competition for the new Rolex Sea-Dweller is from Rolex. It's the outgoing 40mm reference 116600 and the one millimeter larger, but even deeper rated, Deepsea. It's the Submariner! Rolex has such a strong offering of dive watches it's hard to think that if someone were slightly turned off by a feature or two of the Sea-Dweller, that they wouldn't just turn to another Rolex diver with slightly different specs. I've even heard that there is a run on the outgoing 116600 because people think that will be a collectible – the last 40mm, cyclops-less Sea-Dweller. It's possible, but I also know that the current Sea-Dweller 126600 is also a very hot watch at the moment, which is saying a lot for a professional tool watch with relatively limited commercial appeal. Here's a quick guide on how the new Sea-Dweller stacks up against its brethren.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d7248f56-78a0-484c-b64d-5fcbcf8c854e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Personal Thoughts On The New Sea-Dweller"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["7c4ba030-afa3-4572-9ab4-91f05eee3d13"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When HODINKEE Managing Editor Stephen Pulvirent told me we'd be getting the new Sea-Dweller in for review and asked me if I wanted to give it a shot, I was a little on the fence about the whole thing. Obviously I have a thing for old Rolexes, but the Sea-Dweller has never resonated with me. In fact, I've owned one of every other well-known Rolex at point or another (except the Milgauss) but never a Sea-Dweller. I've had my Subs, and I still have my first Sub (matte dial 5512 wassup!) which for me can't be improved upon. And yet that is what the Sea-Dweller sought to do from the very beginning. My first thought was: I'm not a diver, so why deal with the extra metal on the wrist? </p>\n\n<p>How do I feel after writing this admittedly too long story on the new Sea-Dweller? Well, exactly the same. This is not a watch for me. And I say that as someone who has grown to love modern Rolex as much as vintage – and in fact the next watch I buy might in fact be another modern Rolex (unless I finally get that #SpeedyTuesday call I've been waiting for). But it won't be the Sea-Dweller. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["21a8989f-54c4-4bf4-97f5-4ee65c82a67a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now more than ever I know that the Sea-Dweller is just too big for me. 43mm isn't the issue, and in fact I happen to think that much as the Datograph got better when it upsized to the Up/Down, because the thickness was balanced out by the increased diameter, this watch might even work better as a 43mm than it did as a 40mm watch. It doesn't feel so hockey-puck-ish any more. </p>\n\n<p>In fact, I grew to be okay with the watch on my little girly-man wrist, which more often than not is adorned with lightweight 38mm cases and hollow-link bracelets. But here's where I differ from the Rolex advertisement above from 1964. It reads: \"Professor Picard clamped the Submariner to the outside of his Bathyscaph and took it seven miles down to the ocean floor... what is it doing at the conference table?\" To me, this watch doesn't belong at the conference table. It belongs on the wrists of people like Professor Picard, or Scott Carpenter, or Bob Barth. Or hell, maybe<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/run-silent-run-deep-diving-with-the-sinn-u1-professional/" target=\"_blank\"> our own Jason Heaton</a> (AKA the only dive watch reviewer who actually dives). But not on me – it's overkill on me. A Submariner with a jacket and tie is one thing – the damn watch is part of our cultural DNA at this point – but the Sea-Dweller is <i>actually a tool. </i>It's something built to serve a very distinct purpose during a particular part of our history that was purpose<i>ful. </i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9df53a1a-288f-4f5a-8484-0752bf71a3d8","8c789c88-99d1-4c52-89a3-2f6c666262ae"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I have no issues with others wearing Sea-Dwellers daily (obviously) and I can tell you that should I ever be tapped to participate in SeaLab IX, it'll be the first thing I buy. But until then, the Sea-Dweller will remain in my eyes just how I described it in the very beginning of this story: intellectually one of Rolex's more important products, though commercially one of its least. It's a true tool watch catering to true dive professionals – which I am not.</p>\n\n<p>The new Rolex 126600 is in stores now and you can read more about it <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rolex.com/watches/sea-dweller/m126600-0001.html/" target=\"_blank\">right here</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"c4b010fa-c2d4-4efb-9e86-76ba1f2b075a","container_id":4573,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1497381244011-f75hu3apsmr-cf68457230bef6e9314f4bd82c05e445/new_hero_copy.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-06-13T15:10:29.276-04:00","updated_at":"2017-06-13T15:14:06.556-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1497381244011-f75hu3apsmr-cf68457230bef6e9314f4bd82c05e445/new_hero_copy.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-sea-dweller-reference-126600","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Rolex Sea-Dweller Reference 126600","tags":[]},{"id":4574,"slug":"the-armin-strom-mirrored-force-resonance-water","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance 'Water'","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-06-15T09:39:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-06-14T10:42:12.874-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:33.611-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>Resonance watches promise better accuracy, but does this one deliver where it counts?</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":25899,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance watches were first introduced in late 2016 and they generated a lot of interest among technically minded watch enthusiasts, as well as a certain amount of healthy skepticism. Resonance watches are very rare and tend to require a considerable amount of careful adjustment in order to get them to work – and to get them to deliver on their promise of better accuracy. However the system Armin Strom used to create a resonance effect seemed quite ingenious and as well, offered some pretty extraordinary visuals. We took a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-armin-strom-mirrored-force-resonance-fire-a-resonance-watch-with-a-unique-coupling-system/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On look at one of the gold models</a> in December of 2016, and were definitely impressed with what we saw, but we were not at that time able to have the watch in the office and on the wrist long enough to evaluate whether the resonance mechanism worked as Armin Strom intended it to work.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2a5236e6-a71b-48d8-b195-a72a39e5b858"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The basic idea behind resonance watches and clocks is that two oscillators that are in resonance with each other should have better accuracy or – to be more technically correct – a more stable rate. Resonance occurs when two oscillators, be they pendulums or balance wheels or what have you, begin to beat together, thanks to being mechanically coupled in some way. Different makers have used different methods for connecting the oscillators mechanically. Well-known examples of this sort of watch include the resonance timepieces made by Breguet during his lifetime (he conducted numerous experiments on the phenomenon) and in the modern era, such timepieces as the F. P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance and Beat Haldimann's H2 Resonance Flying Tourbillon. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Resonance watches are rare for a reason; they are difficult to make and adjust and there is no shortcut to getting one to work properly. F. P. Journe's resonance watches have balances that are mechanically coupled through the movement plate – when the balance reaches the limit of its vibration and is returned the other direction by the balance spring, this induces a very minute corresponding vibration in the balance cock and then in the plate to which it's screwed. If everything is just right this vibration will influence the second balance and the two will begin to oscillate together. (This is the method employed by Breguet in his resonance pocket watches as well. Breguet himself seems to have had a hard time believing the effect was real; in an undated note on his experiments with resonance watches he wrote, \"This appears to be absurd, but experiment proves it a thousand times over.\")</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bbb6ce30-a426-4ebd-995e-978a318a8e87"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Mirrored Force Resonance watches take a different approach which is closer to that used by Beat Haldimann in his H2 resonance tourbillon, although the two watches differ dramatically not only aesthetically, but in key technical details as well. In the Armin Strom resonance watches, the two balance springs are mechanically coupled via an elaborate and complex spring with a sharp double-S curve. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b1bc477a-2831-4df0-b287-d381b9fb5c3f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The balance spring studs (the outer pinning point of a balance spring) are connected to the opposite ends of the resonance spring and as the balances oscillate, the resonance spring converts the balance spring \"breathing\" into a connecting lateral thrusting motion. This should induce resonance in the two balances and should also produce a more stable rate than either balance alone can provide.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Aesthetics Of The Mirrored Force Resonance 'Water'"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Armin Strom watches fall in general into four families that correspond to the classical four elements of Earth, Air, Water, and Fire and are set apart by differences in case metals as well as overall design (Water corresponds to plain stainless steel, for instance; Fire to rose gold). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["add6620f-790c-4d92-98bc-7878948ec456"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3815b436-a5a1-4ba7-a8a4-553efa656d56"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The design of the watch is quite straightforward and is intended to showcase the technical properties of the movement and on this front, I think the steel \"Water\" model is especially successful; it has a purposefulness that is absent in the gold model we saw in 2016. The latter has other appealing points but the steel model gives a feeling of instrumentality very appropriate to the watch. The hours and minutes are shown in a sub-dial to the right, at 3:00 and at about 7 and 11 on the dial, you have subdials for reading off the seconds; these are in turn linked to two balances at 8 and 10. The pusher located at about 2:00 is for setting both seconds hands to zero simultaneously. Pressing on it causes two reset hammers to fall on two separate heart pieces – one underneath each three-armed seconds hand. (One of the three arms is white, and it's from that arm you read the seconds off.) This is in its operating principles exactly identical to the reset mechanism used in chronographs.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b1c6db30-ceb1-4623-be62-e3587c54a04f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>How exciting you find the open dial design of the Mirrored Force Resonance depends a lot on how interested you are in watching the resonance mechanism in action. If you like this sort of thing it's extremely interesting to observe the action of the resonance spring and see the two balances beating together. There's a lot more to see than there is on the dial side of a Journe resonance watch but the unique nature of the resonance mechanism ensures there is a good reason to open up the dial (so often open dial watches don't offer much to look at and make you wonder why anyone thought it was worth opening the dial up at all).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["df6126c8-4030-4c21-a1da-6cc153a17d9f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["1f2cc593-1a99-40a3-b627-48325756fc16"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's a big presence on the wrist at 43.40mm x 13.00mm though obviously, if you're in the market for one of these you are looking for a statement piece anyway. That said the dimensions are not excessive for the nature of the watch and for its architecture; there are basically two complete going trains inside the case and given that it's two watches in one, it's reasonably compact. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["83d7dc20-a4e2-4d82-aa52-589f44805b79"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Most of the more overt visual attraction is on the dial side, obviously, but the movement side (the \"top plate\" side to a watchmaker, for whom the back of the movement is the top) while overall more restrained is still very well done, with cleanly executed circular Geneva strips and snailing. Finish on functional surfaces is excellent even under magnification. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["8ab798d0-8523-48e0-b568-2c6a0b4f0d84"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ad6292d4-a7c7-44e1-9e99-42e9f66ddf38"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Daily Use And Performance"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Wearing a watch this big on a daily basis is something I generally don't do but it's always nice to break out of a rut and after a day or so of getting acclimatized to a bigger case, the size became a non-issue – far more relevant than case size per se is how well a watch wears in terms of comfort and aside from my shirt cuff snagging on it from time to time there were no issues in that respect with the Mirrored Force Resonance at all. My routine during the week and a half or so that I wore it was always the same: wind the watch first thing in the morning, wear it throughout the day (usually a 2 mile walk to and from home to the office and back, plus on the wrist at my desk) and at night it was on the dresser dial up. This is not a routine that will upset the rate of any watch, in general (like humans, watches are creatures of habit and all other things being equal will be steadier with a good routine) but you would still expect, over this period of time, for any watch to wander a bit on its daily rate.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["70074097-9c5f-4b14-ba0c-a4636c8eb11f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>On the first day I wore the watch, I wound it and synchronized the two seconds hands with the re-set pusher. Every day at about the same time (11AM) I checked to see if the hands were still synchronized, and I also checked the rate of the watch against an Internet atomic time standard (NIST). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I was expecting the balances to become desynchronized at some point, and in fact the folks at Armin Strom had mentioned to me when I first saw the watch back in 2016 that getting the geometry of the spring just right was proving to be challenging – in other words it was at that point a work in progress. However based on the test period results they seem to have gotten the watch perfectly dialed in, to make a weak pun. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In daily wear, the balances never became desynchronized – not by so much as a second; after eight days they were still perfectly in syc with each other and while it's always possible they drifted out of resonance and then back in at some point, I never observed it to happen. The resonance mechanism appears to be extremely robust and worked exactly as intended. Moreover and just as remarkably, the watch kept an extremely steady rate: it lost exactly 6.5 seconds per day, without fail, every day. </p>\n\n<p>This is marine chronometer level performance – remember, a precision timekeeper is not necessarily one that keeps perfect time relative to a time standard, but rather one whose rate remains stable and in this respect the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance, during the test period, exceeded the COSC standard of maximum 5 seconds' daily rate variation considerably. Making it accurate in the sense of keeping time to a time standard would be a matter of regulation but in terms of rate stability it performed to expectation and beyond, and it would appear that better rate stability is indeed the payoff of the Mirrored Force Resonance mechanism. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["56b18c9b-4d15-4a66-9502-123eaadd9929"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Mirrored Force Resonance in steel made a very positive impression and not just for its praiseworthy technical performance, though that was essential as well. The most successful watches are those in which there's a seamless integration of mechanics and aesthetics; a watch with great design but a poor movement will become very uninteresting over time, and conversely one with a great movement but lackluster aesthetics will fail as well. As with all things it's best to try and win both hearts and minds. This resonance watch from Armin Strom, if you are susceptible to the value proposition it makes, may just do both.</p>\n\n<p><i>The Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Water: case, stainless steel with sapphire front and back, 43.40mm x 13.00mm and 50m water resistant. Movement, resonance caliber ARF15, 16 1/2 lignes, 25,500 vph, running in 43 jewels; 48 hour power reserve. Price, $54,100. See all the collections </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.arminstrom.com/en//" target=\"_blank\"><i>at Arminstrom.com.</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"c893f83d-96b0-4537-9dc8-8b9a0e114e62","container_id":4574,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1497449304355-0dd27raqo2tv-e6aaa74de4d7e86dca55822da68fe5e0/hero.jpg","width":5184,"height":2916,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2017-06-14T10:42:13.017-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:13:37.390-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1497449304355-0dd27raqo2tv-e6aaa74de4d7e86dca55822da68fe5e0/hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-armin-strom-mirrored-force-resonance-water","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance 'Water'","tags":[]},{"id":4491,"slug":"the-urban-jurgensen-reference-big-8-in-stainless-steel","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Urban Jürgensen Reference Big 8 In Stainless Steel","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-06-12T09:28:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-05-11T14:51:07.473-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:33.793-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>The Urban Jürgensen Reference Big 8 is a stunning example of old-school luxury watchmaking.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":41069,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>I can't remember when it was that I first saw Urban Jürgensen's watches, but I suspect it was sometime in the very early 2000s. It might very well have been on that irreplaceable treasure trove of early classic online watch photography, Steve G's Watch Launchpad, some time around 2002 or 2003; the watch in question being <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://ninanet.net/watches/others07/Mediums/mUJ.html/" target=\"_blank\">a lovely Ref. 8</a>, with a black dial. It might also have been on ThePuristS.com (now PuristsPro) in Dr. Thomas Mao's write-up of his <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.thepurists.com/jpg/perpetual/ujr3.html/" target=\"_blank\">Ref. 3 Perpetual Calendar, from 2001.</a> (It says something about how old the latter story is, at least in Internet years, that Dr. Mao calls the 37mm case of the Ref. 3 \"surprisingly large.\" I have, with some feeling, watched some of my favorite internet watch stories go dark over the last couple of decades and it always makes me happy to run across old friends like these).</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Wherever it was, I remember being very, very taken with the designs – actually, with the whole package; the combination of case and lug shapes and proportions, the very fine <i>guilloché </i>work on the dial, and the observatory style hands. It all seemed to add up to something that touched a lot of points in watch history and design but managed to seem fresh and original at the same time. Recently I had a chance to get reacquainted with the company by (finally) getting to meet with them at Baselworld, and having a chance to (finally) get one of their watches on my wrist, which was a distinct pleasure after having admired them from a distance for so many years. Let's dig a little into both the Big 8, and the history of Urban Jürgensen.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9da92ed6-65fe-4433-8469-8798602cab77"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Urban Jürgensen In Copenhagen And Neuchâtel"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Urban Jürgensen has had a rather complicated past – as with many older watch brands, when exactly you consider the company to have begun depends on how you define a company, and often, a family whose name became that of a modern brand, was involved in watchmaking long before a company was formally incorporated. In the case of Urban Jürgensen, the family was involved in watchmaking as early as the mid-1700s, when Jürgen Jürgensen traveled from Copenhagen to Neuchâtel, where he studied with Jaques-Frédèric Houriet (nowadays the latter is best known for having invented the spherical balance spring). Urban Jürgensen, his son, followed his father to Neuchâtel, and through Houriet, was introduced to Breguet and John Arnold. Urban Jürgensen ended up marrying Houriet's daughter Sophie and became a prolific maker of clocks and scientific instruments as well, before passing away at the age of 53, in 1830.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f8468edb-d122-4648-8c14-6a611930a839"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Urban Jürgensen's work was really exceptional – certainly, it reflects credit on his teachers, but also on his ability to absorb their experience and make it his own. The above watch is from 1812 and was auctioned last year at Antiquorum in Geneva <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/mid-auction-report-obscure-urban-jurgensen-pocket-watch-at-antiquorum-geneva-hammers-for-12-times-estimate/" target=\"_blank\">for 12 times its estimate</a>, which is rather astonishing. It's got a pump-action winding system, a chain-and-fusée with Harrison's maintaining power (which keeps power going to the balance even when you are winding the watch; this is essential for a chronometer with a fusée, as otherwise the watch would stop as you wind the chain off the mainspring barrel and back onto the cone) as well as John Arnold's version of the chronometer detent escapement. It also has a cylindrical balance spring.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now of course, a firm whose founder died in 1830 can be expected to have gone through a few things over the course of almost two hundred years – several European and World Wars as well as any number of major and minor financial crises will do that. However, one of the most interesting aspects of the company was that thanks to Jürgen and Urban Jürgensen's travels to Switzerland, the firm had both a Swiss branch, and a branch in Copenhagen, with the Swiss branch doing the bulk of the manufacturing. Eventually, however, the Copenhagen branch and the Swiss branch ceased manufacturing, with the ownership of the Urban Jürgensen name becoming divided between a U.S.-based company, and one in Copenhagen. The brand was revived by Peter Baumberger, who acquired full rights to the company in 1985, and who partnered with the famous English watchmaker, Derek Pratt. The latter passed away in 2009, and Baumberger, in 2010, but not before having introduced a number of exceptional watches, including the Ref. 1 perpetual calendar, as well as being awarded a patent for a unique, wristwatch-capable version of the chronometer detent escapement. Pratt's work for Urban Jürgensen included some extremely high grade pocket watches, such as this tourbillon with <i>remontoire d'égalité </i>and power reserve.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b3887487-601f-4baf-abab-6a3b887db826"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In 2014, Søren Jenry Petersen (a former senior executive at Nokia) acquired Urban Jürgensen, with a group of Danish investors, putting the company – after many decades – back in Danish hands. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Reference Big 8"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Ref. Big 8 is, as you might have guessed from the name, a larger version of the Ref. 8, which comes in a 37mm diameter case. The Big 8 is a 40mm watch, although it doesn't feel or wear big, the \"Big\" notwithstanding. This is probably due to the use of very, very traditional mid-20th century fine watchmaking design cues throughout, including the relatively slim stepped bezel, the recessed crown, the elegantly formed teardrop lugs, and the engine-turned dial. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bd899015-7e78-4a3b-b995-a12b082192e1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The hands on both the Ref. 8, and Ref. Big 8 are very elaborately made – the body for both is heat-blued steel. The centers of both hands are lathe-turned gold, as is the \"eye\" of the hour hand, which is friction fit in place. The tip of the minute hand is gently radiused (another touch which gives the watch an appealingly old-school feel) and in terms of fineness and quality of work, the hands of the Big 8 are a quiet but definite reproach to what you get from many other luxury watch brands, where all too often (in fact, depressingly often) you see hands that can only be described as cheap-looking. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2365715c-8942-40b5-ae38-933c7277fd4c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["a42b25e0-3bf7-461e-a891-5ab70d4ff766"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The case and dial work are similarly elaborate. The teardrop lugs are forged separately from the rest of the case and hand polished before being soldered in place (another nod to mid-century horological methods) and the dial is real <i>guilloché, </i>produced by traditional engine turning. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["191f2f03-3ea2-4e0c-970b-31ed90af5ee9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>All this adds up to a very rich visual effect and one of the great pleasures of wearing the Big 8 was the amount of detail and obvious care that went into making every part, as well as how well all the elements came together. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The hands of the Big 8, and of Urban Jürgensen watches in general, are quite interesting not only for the craft that goes into them, but for the type of hands the company uses. They're often mistaken for Breguet (or <i>pomme</i>) hands (both terms describe the same type of watch hands) but they're not. Breguet hands have an eye at the tip of both the hour and minute hands, which is generally rather smaller than the eye you see on the hour hand in Urban Jürgensen watches. These are sometimes called \"observatory\" (<i>observatoire</i>) style hands – I presume due to their association with chronometers, although I've been unable to find any specific explanation so far for the term. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The combination of an engine turned dial with hands that resemble Breguet style hands is reminiscent of Breguet watches, of course, although I personally have always felt that Urban Jürgensen watches very much have their own character. Breguet's style varied as it developed even during his own lifetime, although certainly <i>pomme </i>hands and an engine turned dial are signature looks; in wristwatches, though, I think the distinctive teardrop lugs, stepped bezel, smooth case flanks, and <i>observatoire-</i>style hands used by Urban Jürgensen add up to a watch with a clear design identity of its own (as well as offering a nice connection to the link in watchmaking history between Urban Jürgensen, and Breguet in the 19th century). Even back in the early 2000s, they never struck me as especially derivative of Breguet wristwatches <i>per se. </i>And, of course, the adoption of at least some of Breguet's stylistic idioms has an honorable history – lord knows it was good enough for Dr. George Daniels, among others.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["995edcab-db0a-4107-9bda-53d549e5cee5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The movement is a modified F. Piguet 1160, which runs at 28,800 vph (there is a 21,600 vph version of the same movement as well). The movement's fairly flat, at 5.20mm x 32mm, with two barrels and a 40 hour power reserve. F. Piguet is now Manufacture Blancpain, as most HODINKEE readers probably know, but its movements were at one time quite widely used among <i>haute horlogerie </i>manufacturers, in keeping with the time-honored Swiss <i>ébauche </i>tradition, and to me the presence of cal. 1160 here has a lot of charm – very much a connection to an aspect of traditional Swiss watchmaking which has acquired more of a negative connotation than it should. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7335475b-c821-4153-a0c9-00131d401f5a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you're of a mind to enjoy a modern watch with a tremendous amount of aesthetic charm derived from what was arguably the golden age of fine watch design, you're probably going to get quite a kick out of wearing the Big 8. On the wrist, thanks to its slim dimensions and (relatively) modest diameter, it's extremely comfortable – it has that property few watches have of really seeming to become a part of your body when you wear it. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["85aecd5c-b653-408c-9328-e4cac7a94f48"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Big 8 is a fine, and very refined, wristwatch and one of the most attractive things about it, in addition to the quiet but definite high quality of every part of the watch, is that this sort of watchmaking has, almost without anyone noticing, become rather rare. To devote care and craft to the external aesthetics, in the context of traditional watch design, while at the same time taking advantage of the availability of a high grade movement, used to be the standard <i>modus operandus </i>for a lot of Swiss fine watchmaking, and the industry-wide rush to establish one's brand (seemingly regardless of cost to both brand and consumer) as a <i>manufacture </i>has not necessarily been an entirely good thing, to say nothing of having resulted in what may very well be unsustainable pricing practices. </p>\n\n<p>The Big 8 in steel is $15,300, which for the quality offered is I think a very attractive price. The pleasure of wearing a luxury watch can certainly derive to some degree from branding but for luxury to sustain its appeal, at some point it has to deliver on the promise that branding makes, and it's no secret that in this era of mass luxury, this happens less and less. The Big 8 is a rarity not only among watches, but among modern luxury products in general – it's something that the more you learn about, the happier you are you have it, and unlike so many luxury products these days, the chances of it becoming a source of regret to its owner as time goes by, are very small indeed.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["dc152e1f-5089-462d-aa4d-e6eeaee8c753"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>The Urban Jürgensen Ref. Big 8 in stainless steel: case, 40 mm x 10.50 mm, with soldered teardrop lugs; water resistance 3 ATM/30 meters. Sapphire crystals front and back. Dial, hand-finished guilloché, solid sterling silver. Observatory style hands in gold and heat-blued stainless steel. Movement, modified F. Piguet caliber 1160, 28,800 vph, with two mainspring barrels and 40 hour power reserve, adjusted to five positions.</i></p>\n\n<p><i>Find out more about Urban Jürgensen and the Ref. Big 8 at </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.urbanjurgensen.com/collections/reference-8-big8/" target=\"_blank\"><i>urbanjurgensen.com.</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"8302b1d6-40a4-4417-aa61-f80254ccf21a","container_id":4491,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1494519072062-jezuuy2dhpn-4e57af8d7ca47d11330dbda6516ca73f/hero.jpg","width":5184,"height":2916,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2017-05-11T14:51:07.486-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:13:59.808-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1494519072062-jezuuy2dhpn-4e57af8d7ca47d11330dbda6516ca73f/hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-urban-jurgensen-reference-big-8-in-stainless-steel","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Urban Jürgensen Reference Big 8 In Stainless Steel","tags":[]},{"id":4503,"slug":"breitling-superocean-heritage-ii-42mm-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Breitling Superocean Héritage II","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-05-17T14:16:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-05-15T16:16:53.507-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:34.024-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>A thoroughly modern take on a thoroughly classic watch.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106669542001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":141109,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>The 1950s were a watershed decade for dive watches, if you'll forgive the pun. Within a few years of each other, three different companies released three of the most enduring classics of the modern dive watch idiom: the Rolex Submariner, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, and the Omega Seamaster 300. All had certain essential features in common – excellent visibility, rotating timing bezels, good water resistance – and each has gone on to become an icon for the company that made it. In 1957, another classic of the era debuted: the Breitling Superocean, which was released in both chronograph and non-chronograph versions.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["46eeb82f-66c0-4b62-a186-b1f2628ee879"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Early Breitling Superocean watches have gone on to become very collectible – the first two references, in good condition, are now high five-figure timepieces (nothing like <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/white-gold-submariner-world-record-christies/" target=\"_blank\">the crazy money being spent on rare Submariners,</a> but still very respectable). This year is the 60th anniversary of the Superocean, and to mark the occasion Breitling has released a new version of the watch which looks back to the originals for its design cues, while at the same time looking very much forward from a technical standpoint – including the movement, which is being supplied to Breitling by Tudor (with modifications).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["7c5115da-0884-4181-884a-4553b7339447"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are two sizes available for the new model – 42mm and 46mm, with a 46mm chronograph available as well – and all three models are available in brown, blue, or black. We had the blue and brown models in the office and the brown model on a strap was the one I wore for a week. The blue version on a steel mesh bracelet is just as handsome as the brown model, and for the same reasons: clarity of design and great depth of color. I can only assume the black model would be just as handsome, although the rich colors of the dials and bezels for the blue and brown models is hard to pass up, if you're going to go for color in a dive watch at all. (Officially, the colors are \"copperhead bronze\" and \"gun blue,\" per Breitling).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2f03b11a-52a0-45c6-93d3-43559079ecce"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The strap on the brown version is rubber-lined leather and it's quite thick, giving every impression of being nearly as durable as the steel mesh bracelet. Ordinarily, I would prefer something a little less heavy, but as the 42mm Héritage Superocean watches are 14.35mm thick, the strap works well and actually harmonizes better with the overall feel of the watch than would a thinner strap (for comparison, the Tudor Black Bay is about 14.8mm thick). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9e5178ee-5e3d-4562-9515-01d30377622f","7170e45a-a8d7-4507-9f74-ee951cf559be"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The buckle has a micro-adjustment feature, which lets you fine-tune the fit, although basic strap length is a little harder to adjust, as it requires cutting the strap to the approximate correct length first. The micro-adjustment mechanism is simple to use: Just push in to unlock it, and you can shift the point of attachment of the strap inside the buckle to suit. (Leaving nothing to chance, Breitling has helpfully labeled the relevant locking mechanism \"push.\") </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["1d6bac33-0fa6-49eb-b142-969a40cd39c1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Fit and finish on this sub-$5,000 watch is very good indeed. The hands and dial markers pick up light beautifully and the Superocean is, as it should be, instantly legible under pretty much any lighting conditions you'd care to throw at it (including total darkness). Aside from legibility, though, it struck me during the time I wore it as a genuinely beautiful watch, with a kind of elegance I've missed in some of Breitling's more recent creations. The shapes of the hands and indexes, as well as the warm richness and saturation of the dial and bezel colors, goes to show you that making an aesthetically nuanced tool watch needn't be an oxymoron (I still can't quite believe I'm describing a Breitling as \"aesthetically nuanced,\" but there you have it). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2aa4e205-d941-4f39-bbcd-8d5265e7bb9d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The bezel feels slightly stiff, dropping into half-minute stops as you rotate it; the upside of a certain degree of resistance, of course, is that you feel when you set the bezel that it's not going anywhere. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["8b08fd15-5239-4e7a-ae11-4b11802e240d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of the most interesting aspects of the Superocean Héritage is what's under the hood – in this case, the Breitling caliber B20. This is sort of an in-house movement, and sort of not; it's based on the Tudor caliber MT5612, which was first introduced by <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-tudor-pelagos-now-with-in-house-movement/" target=\"_blank\">Tudor in the Pelagos</a>. There are some differences between the MT5612, as used by Tudor, and the B20 – for one thing, the B20 has somewhat more traditional finishing than MT5612, which has <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.tudorwatch.com/magazine/article/movement-5612/" target=\"_blank\">an almost modernist look</a>, with bead-blasted bridges rather than the Geneva stripes used in the Breitling version. The other major difference is that the B20 doesn't have a silicon balance spring, which means less resistance to magnetic fields. However, a lot of the value of the movement is still there. The B20 is, like the caliber MT5612, a tough movement designed for hard use, with a balance bridge (providing somewhat better protection against shock) and a freesprung, adjustable mass balance – and, of course, a 70 hour power reserve.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["11de9e2e-7d9c-4417-8c87-7a002e989e6f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0100e8a4-83e2-428b-91b8-4aaab43ad000","6aba7c82-0f12-4be1-9d6b-f81a3b3f4606"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Because of the closed caseback, you can't see the movement, which is a bit of a shame, but you can definitely tell it's there from the performance of the watch. Certainly, this chronometer-certified caliber came through in daily use – I'd expect the watch to drift a little on its rate over time but at least during the one week period I wore it, it gained exactly one second per day, which is stellar performance by any standard. Wider use by Breitling of this movement (and I can only assume they'll deploy it elsewhere in the next year or two) would make a significant change in how potential buyers evaluate the value proposition of Breitling watches.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["96607516-fac9-4949-861f-849e67de80bf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This version of the Breitling Superocean Héritage will run you $4,500 (the blue dial version on the mesh bracelet isn't much more expensive, at $4,700). After a week with the brown dial version I really felt like there's a lot on offer from Breitling with this one. The aesthetics are really compelling (it's one of the more handsome new dive watches out this year, for sure). And with a ceramic bezel, a very nicely made strap with a well-engineered bracelet, and that caliber B20 inside – which gave nothing short of excellent performance during the week I had it, and which has some very nice technical bells and whistles going for it – Breitling has here a very serious new contender in the $5,000 and under dive watch category. Definitely worth a serious look, and a great deal of what you get in more expensive dive watches, for several thousand less.</p>\n<p>For more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.breitling.com/en//" target=\"_blank\">visit Breitling online</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"1eef1970-f4ad-4892-be9d-e9b060ba1dc0","container_id":4503,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1494960410592-2tv49ai67fy-66a5db4010ec6847e281854a41049693/hero_2.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-05-15T16:16:54.014-04:00","updated_at":"2017-05-16T14:46:59.992-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1494960410592-2tv49ai67fy-66a5db4010ec6847e281854a41049693/hero_2.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breitling-superocean-heritage-ii-42mm-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Breitling Superocean Héritage II","tags":[]},{"id":4441,"slug":"iwc-da-vinci-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-steel-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph In Steel","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-04-26T14:01:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-04-23T12:07:22.023-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:34.300-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>For IWC, 2017 is the Year of Da Vinci, and that includes a refresh of the most iconic model, the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph designed by the legendary Kurt Klaus.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106668762001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":53390,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":"170e5150-6b65-4d6b-a29a-2b9882a18504","display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>In keeping with its usual practice of devoting each year to refreshing a particular product line, IWC brought out a totally redesigned Da Vinci family at this year's SIHH. Of all the IWC families, Da Vinci may be the hardest sell – unlike the brand's technical and aviation themed watches, Da Vinci is, and historically has always been (with one exception), a way of showing off IWC as a complications specialist. Stylistically, the Da Vinci family has much more to do with wristwatch design idioms that considerably pre-date the pioneering steel tool watches that became so popular after the end of World War II, and they also stand very much apart stylistically from every other IWC family.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Those differences are not so much polarizing as they simply are more specific, in terms of to whom they are going to appeal. However, I think the Da Vinci family comes by its individuality honestly. For one thing, the designs have importance and value in terms of what they represent about design history at IWC as a whole. For another, they have a strong connection to IWC's decades-long, avowed philosophy of exploring what it means to make \"a pocket watch for the wrist.\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Origins Of The IWC Da Vinci Family, And Complicated Watchmaking At IWC"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ba8dc287-0edb-4404-a005-76abd7f5368c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The very first Da Vinci watch from IWC was from 1969-70 and that model doesn't have a whole lot to do with what the Da Vinci line has become. The original Da Vinci was a quartz watch, made to show off the then-revolutionary Beta 21 quartz movement, and the lozenge-shaped case certainly made it stand out from the crowd. The quartz Da Vinci evolved, as quartz technology did, becoming thinner and more elegant – the one you see above is a Da Vinci SL quartz wristwatch from 1977 – but it wasn't a platform for high complications until some years later.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_left"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Jump forward to 1985, and Da Vinci has become a whole 'nother animal. Although the name Da Vinci was used for the first time for an IWC watch right at the beginning of the Quartz Crisis, the models that used the name next in the 1980s were so different as to basically constitute a re-boot of the entire Da Vinci line. The rather mod, very 1970s lozenge shaped case is gone and instead we have something that stylistically could easily have been made in the period, say, 1925-1935 and which, in terms of mechanics and complexity, is connected to not just the tradition of high complication wristwatches, but complicated pocket watches as well.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["4e154a3a-b960-43ae-a577-64f452e1bf91"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's difficult now to appreciate just how revolutionary the 1985 Da Vinci was. This was a perpetual calendar chronograph, with a module designed by IWC's Kurt Klaus, built on a Valjoux 7750 chronograph base. However, the Valjoux movement was just a starting point. The perpetual calendar mechanism was the first ever made in which all the calendar indications, including the moonphase, were coordinated via the crown, so that in order to set the watch you only had to pull out the crown and advance the day indication – the day, month, leap year, and year indications, along with the moon, would all advance together. The only gotcha was that you couldn't set the calendar backwards, but it was still an unprecedented technical achievement, and in the mid-1980s, when complicated watchmaking was probably at its lowest ebb in the entire 20th century, it was a very powerful statement from IWC not only about its own capacities as a complications specialist – which, historically, had not been its specialization – but also a statement of faith and belief in the future of mechanical horology as a whole.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Stylistically? The barrel lugs, stepped bezel, mushroom shaped pushers, and general vibe were all designed in a way that vehemently recalls what, even in 1985, was already an extremely conservative and anachronistic style of watchmaking. However, this very much fit with the intentions of the watch and the renewed Da Vinci family – the conservative cosmetics were, like the mechanics, an avowal of faith in both the past and future of mechanical horology.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["81b5d095-8d3d-42de-8829-11c38a529c21"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I wasn't yet interested in watches when the first run of mechanical Da Vincis came out in 1985, but ten years later, I'd gotten bitten by the bug and by the time I started reading about IWC, the Da Vinci Perpetual Chronograph and Kurt Klaus had become, respectively, legendary and celebrated in the watch enthusiast community. Complicated watchmaking at IWC in the late 20th and early 21st centuries had been legitimized by Klaus, and by the Da Vinci Perpetual Chrono, almost single handedly. I said earlier that complicated watchmaking had never been a particular specialty of IWC, but it is true that IWC had produced very complicated watches in the past – however, these were rare one-offs (though it's worth mentioning that there were both perpetual calendar and minute repeating complications in IWC pocket watches in the late 19th century.) </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>Although the IWC Da Vinci of 1985 was a major milestone, it wasn't the first complicated mechanical watch from IWC. In 1982, the firm released a watch never shown in any catalog: the reference 3710 full calendar, chronograph, and moonphase. Read IWC historian David Seyffer's article <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.iwc.com/en/the-start-of-a-complicated-era//" target=\"_blank\">right here, at IWC.com.</a></p>","title":"The Secret History: A Complicated IWC Wristwatch From 1982","images":["230515a8-0879-477b-b705-696b19f5701c"],"alignment":"right"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The watch that really brought home the point that IWC was now a contender amongst complications specialists, was the first IWC Grande Complication wristwatch, reference 3770. If you can find one at auction it's one of the most interesting ways to get into a precious metal cased minute repeater, chronograph, and perpetual calendar with four-digit year indication that I can think of. The Grande Complication came out in 1990, and three years later, IWC debuted the watch you see above, known as \"Il Destriero Scafusia\" (roughly, \"The Warhorse Of Schaffhausen\") which added a flying tourbillon and offered a <i>rattrapante </i>chronograph. Il Destriero Scafusia was also based on a Valjoux caliber – the hand-wound 7760, but one so heavily modified its own mother wouldn't have recognized it. </p>\n<p>The Grande Comps and Il Destriero Scafusia weren't part of the Da Vinci line <i>per se, </i>but they were very much in the same spirit: statement pieces, both for IWC and for anyone wearing them. At the time, they weren't considered an affordable way to get into grande complication wristwatches (is there such a thing?) but rather, an alternative to the very small group of other possible candidates for making one – which, it bears emphasizing, included at the time just a handful of makers, including Jaeger-LeCoultre, Audemars Piguet, and Patek. They were technically distinctive in a way that appealed strongly to connoisseurs and as much as anything else, really put IWC on the map in a way it had never been before.</p>\n<p>Stylistically, they were also allied to the Da Vinci family – extremely traditional, rather more Baroque than not; which gave both them and the Da Vincis an extremely aristocratic air, and which was a major departure from the very restrained, even utilitarian flavor of virtually all other IWC watches from the second half of the 20th century.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The New Da Vinci Perpetual Chronograph (And Its New Siblings Too)"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["2cafb38c-11ac-4b49-870c-20d2c153358b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The reason for all the palaver about the roots of Da Vinci in IWC's aspirations to become a complications manufacture in the 1980s and '90s is because it has a lot to do (this is A Week On The Wrist, after all) with how I felt about the new Da Vinci Perpetual Chronographs when I first saw them earlier this year. I have to be honest, I understand why IWC made some modifications to the original design but I would have been perfectly happy to see those barrel lugs and mushroom pushers again – the Baroque is not an idiom that sells a ton of watches nowadays but I have an irresistible nostalgia for the original Da Vincis, and to see a return to the round case, onion-ish crown, stepped bezel, and overall aristocratic flavor sat very well with me; I thought it was a great way to connect the dots to IWC's past as a complications maker and to the history of the Da Vinci line.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9b498b4d-d8c1-4ac3-b87c-49bd589f0e7c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The other thing I was very happy to see was the four-digit year indication – IWC had gotten out of the habit of using it in recent years and it's great to see it front and center again. It was a signature element of the original Da Vinci Perpetual Chronograph back in 1985, and a visual signature for the inventiveness of Kurt Klaus as well. Getting back in a round, slightly Baroque, rather formal Da Vinci case is pretty exciting, especially for those of us who've been following the evolution of complicated watchmaking at IWC for a couple of decades.</p>\n<p>It's a fairly large watch – 43mm x 15.5mm, which is a hair larger than the the Portuguiser Automatic (42.3 mm x 14.5 mm; for a fairly ubiquitous standard for comparison, the Seiko Diver SKX 007 is 42.5mm x 13.25). Despite the diameter, it doesn't come across as a gratuitously large watch. As is the case with many perpetual calendars there is a lot of information being displayed, with the calendar indications sharing dial space with the chronograph sub-registers, so the available real estate is being put to good use and you actually end up having a more legible than usual perpetual chrono. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["5b6edeb2-edeb-46ae-b7c3-eadcb825d04c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["c93175d8-d50e-4e00-9738-0a72bb05b9b4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This particular, somewhat maximalist approach to complicated watchmaking is a bit in contrast to some of the leaner ways of implementing a perpetual calendar and it's certainly not the only way to do things – the Patek Philippe <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5270g-review/" target=\"_blank\">5270 perpetual calendar chronograph</a>, for instance, has windows for the day of the week and the month, up at 12 o'clock; the moonphase and date share a sub-dial at six o'clock; two additional sub-dials show the running seconds and the chronograph 30-minute counter. </p>\n<p>At 41mm, it's worth pointing out, the 5270 is not dramatically smaller than the Da Vinci, although it's also true that Patek's first perpetual chronograph ever – reference 1518 – is just 35mm in diameter. On the Da Vinci's side, it does include both a minutes and hour register (in the sub-dial at 12 o'clock) so it's delivering a bit of extra data. Still, though, for the Da Vinci, I think the desire to make a watch that not only looks complicated, but also does so in a very old fashioned way, has given us a watch that has a bit more of a connection with the pocket watch tradition of complicated watchmaking, than the wristwatch tradition. </p>\n<p>The movement is IWC's in-house caliber 89630; it's self-winding, with a 68-hour power reserve, a moonphase accurate to one day's error every 577.5 years (a conventional moonphase complication accumulates a full day's error in two years, seven-and-a-half months, although much higher precision moonphase complications – one day in 144 years, or better – have become more or less <i>de rigeur </i>in high-end watchmaking).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7622dfad-b69b-4448-904d-b5af491e8b05"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3e86f316-45c4-4e1c-9c32-c114185f0f31"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["e2db11f2-a55b-494a-87dc-5572d4703688"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>IWC's in-house caliber 89630 looks handsome through the caseback; it doesn't give an impression of bleeding edge, obsessive craft as much as it does of a carefully constructed, more overbuilt-than-not, piece of precision machinery, which is to say, it fits the pocket watch-ish feel of the watch overall quite well. Of course you get the Kurt Klaus mechanism for the perpetual calendar; you also get a 68 hour power reserve, and flyback chronograph. Chronograph operation is crisp and clean, with just a little bit of a push to get through the detent, but in handling in general, the Da Vinci Perpetual Chrono gives the same impression it does visually – a sort of heirloom-quality sobriety. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["50ce6f34-0dfb-45bd-877c-32c02a47a161"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I found myself adjusting to the Da Vinci Perpetual Chronograph quite quickly; the articulated lugs go a long way towards muting the effect of its large and thick case, and in steel, it's easy to wear all day (this from a guy whose daily wear watch is usually under 40mm, sometimes by a lot). </p>\n<p>I did think, while I was wearing it, quite a lot about the fact that the design is somewhat narrow in its appeal, despite the careful updates IWC has given to the original design from 1985. I don't mind any of the changes; objectively, they make sense in terms of bringing the Da Vinci at least a bit into the 21st century, and the design of the new Da Vinci Perpetual Chronograph still has enough in common with the 1985 versions that you feel a sense of connection to the past right away. </p>\n<p>There's no denying that a lot of the reason I like the new piece so much, really does have to do with how much it reminds me of the original – and it's not just a question of the fact that understanding history and context makes the design more appealing. I'd be lying if I didn't say there isn't a pretty good helping of pleasant nostalgia mixed in there as well. Then, too, I think that when you spend a lot of time in a particular realm as an enthusiast – whether it's furniture design, or wine, or watches, or what have you – you can easily start to develop somewhat contrarian tastes and you <i>can </i>find yourself gravitating towards things just because you know a lot of people find them eccentric or weird.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bebe6c30-b366-4d79-bc26-c229f06ce5aa"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The IWC Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, though, isn't a contrarian choice (at least, it doesn't feel that way to me, not even after some introspection). What makes it appealing is what made the very first Da Vinci Perpetual Chronograph so interesting back in 1985 – it's technically distinctive (the more so now, with the use of an in-house movement vs. the 7750 base in the model from the 80s) and its combination of slightly aristocratic and extremely traditional aesthetics, combined with the overbuilt and slightly massive feel of the movement, give it an elegant instrumentality. As cornball as it may sound, it feels, on the wrist, like a real gentleman's wristwatch – a watch of substance, serenity, and quietly self-sufficient style.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>As shown, the IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. IW392101 in steel is 43mm x 15.5mm; 3 bar water resistance. Movement, IWC caliber 89630, self winding, with 68 hour power reserve; perpetual calendar with four-digit display of the year; chronograph with flyback function and hours/minutes combined in the sub-register at 12:00. Free sprung adjustable mass balance. Price, $29,900. See it online </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.iwc.com/en/collection/davinci/IW3921//" target=\"_blank\"><i>at iwc.com</i></a><i>.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"40212e26-37a3-4fb2-abf2-4741e7ecf5bd","container_id":4441,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1492962944741-w8ch35ysv1r-f084eab33231c659bba26da5a8098d47/hero.jpg","width":4608,"height":2592,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-04-23T12:07:22.044-04:00","updated_at":"2017-04-23T12:07:22.044-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1492962944741-w8ch35ysv1r-f084eab33231c659bba26da5a8098d47/hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/iwc-da-vinci-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-steel-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph In Steel","tags":[]},{"id":4403,"slug":"greubel-forsey-gmt-week-on-the-wrist","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Greubel Forsey GMT","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-04-14T14:22:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-04-08T13:01:38.354-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:34.780-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>One of the most complicated watches Greubel Forsey makes, the GMT impresses technically and aesthetically. But what's it like to actually wear one?<br></p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":48743,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":"58d8d473-1ef4-40f4-bf5c-d80ae02e80f6","display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>Until <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-greubel-forsey-grande-sonnerie/" target=\"_blank\">the Grand Sonnerie</a> came out, one of the most complicated watches Greubel Forsey had in its portfolio was the GMT – a notably pithy name which is in stark contrast to the size, general visual impact, and complexity of the watch itself. It's very seldom that you get a chance to actually see a Greubel Forsey watch in the metal, although over the years I've been lucky enough to see more than my fair share. In 2006, one year after the Double Tourbillon 30° launched, I got to sit next to Stephen Forsey at a dinner in New York and talk for a couple of hours about the tourbillon in general, the theoretical background of the tourbillon, and the technical considerations that gave Forsey and his partner, Robert Greubel, the inspiration for that watch. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It was an extremely memorable night because I took away from it a much better understanding of the pros and cons of tourbillons in general, as well as a pretty striking quote. Towards the end of the night we were talking about the challenges in squeezing a few fractions of a second better performance out of increasingly complex mechanisms, and I asked Stephen Forsey if he felt the game was really worth the candle. He laughed and said, \"Well, you know, it's always a struggle to gain more than you lose.\" </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["68534c58-520d-435d-a1a5-ddafc462e8e9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>That could be something of a motto for Greubel Forsey in general, whose whole production might be seen as a reaction against the notion that there is such a thing as \"good enough\" performance or finish. The designs Greubel Forsey produces can be very polarizing but in general, whether or not they fit your taste ultimately ends up being less interesting than how well each watch succeeds in being what it set out to be.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_left"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Greubel Forsey GMT is one of the most complicated watches from Greubel Forsey (the only two which top it being the Quantième Perpétuel à Équation and the new Grande Sonnerie) and the name, while concise, somewhat undersells the actual complexity of the watch. Visually, it's a showstopper, as most Greubel Forsey watches are. Up front, you have a 24 second inclined tourbillon, tilted at 25°. The hours and minutes are shown in a large sub-dial, and a second time zone is shown to the left. The biggest fireworks are from a titanium globe, which rotates once every 24 hours and shows the Earth as seen from a position above the North Pole. The globe shows about 3/4 of the Earth's surface, with the pivot at the South Pole. The part of the Earth in daylight is shown by the white background side of the 24-hour ring, and an aperture in the side of the case lets light in to shine on the daylight side as well.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["2035ac5a-ed20-4154-986f-132b9cd60f63"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["48aab8d3-248d-4c1b-a07c-e5b36741bd84"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>That the watch undersells itself technically (at least as far as the name goes) becomes apparent when you turn it over. On the back, there is a 24-city, full world-time disk, which, like the globe, rotates once per day, and which shows the correct time in 24 different time zones. The cities in time zones that observe summer time/DST are shown in white, and you can read the correct local time in those cities during the time of year you know DST is in effect, by reading the time off the inner, rather than the outer, 24 hour track. The position of the Sun relative to the Earth is shown on the back of the watch as well; the Sun is represented by a stylized engraving on the wheel affixed to the underside of the globe.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["f4fb4ed6-1498-4ac7-aa7a-c04642087203"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Setting up the GMT is a fairly simple procedure. First, you pull out the crown (there's only one setting position). Next, you set the city disk to the nearest correct hour for your home city (or you can also just set any given city to the nearest correct hour for its time zone). You don't need to take DST into account. The crown can be rotated in either direction. Next, with the crown left out, you press and hold the GMT pusher. This engages the crown with the hour and minute hands, and disengages it from the globe and city disk. You then set the hands to the nearest full hour for your local time position. Finally, you release the GMT pusher, and set the hands to the correct local hour and minute. This advances the globe and city disk as well. </p>\n\n<p>The GMT hand can be set in one hour increments via the pusher. Once you're done setting up the watch, the hour and minute hands, GMT hand, globe, and city disk are all synchronized. When changing time zones, you can use the GMT hand as a local time indicator, by adjusting it to local time as needed; this takes care of any time zone with a full, one hour offset from GMT. There's a sort of power user option as well, however. If you recall, the GMT pusher decouples the crown from the GMT indications, allowing you to just set the hour and minute hands. If you hold the pusher down and re-set the hour and minute hands to local time in your new time zone, you can use the GMT indication as a home time indication, and you can also set the local time to any offset from GMT you need – including non-full hour offsets. This would be the option I'd choose; it's much more natural to read local time off the larger display, and the globe lets you know approximately what o'clock it is anywhere in the world in any case.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9f277178-c652-4699-a0ef-8fdbc958902e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["05d08c31-9a0f-40cc-a554-614b24ae86a5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now, reading about this sort of thing and understanding the watch technically is one thing, but wearing it is another, and for all the technical sophistication, this is not, I think, ultimately an exercising in primarily technical prowess. Greubel Forsey's watches never really are; they're generally all about an extension of a kind of experimental perfectionism into pretty much every aspect of watchmaking. You could almost think of it as a kid of horological <i>reductio ad absurdum: </i>what happens if you simply push every aspect of traditional horology – not just finish, but also the pursuit of better chronometry with a traditional approach to improved isochronism – as far as it can go? The aesthetics of Greubel Forsey watches have always seemed to me to have been almost stumbled on by accident and although there's a lot that's deliberate about the aesthetics per se, they're so informed by the obsessive pursuit of perfectionism in every aspect of the watch that they become both less, and more, than conventional aesthetics – a very strange, but to me very charming, combination of deadpan earnestness, and utter whimsical lunacy. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b9d76eac-6429-46a8-bc4c-2ad652da3537"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The funny thing about wearing the GMT is that you think before you put it on that it's going to be like winning a date with a $20 million-per-picture film star or getting the keys to a Ferrari F12 for the weekend – you're going to be wowed as much by inhabiting an heretofore uninhabitable demographic as by the actual experience. But somehow that's not the case. You look down at your wrist and while, yes, you do see an extraordinarily expensive and generally unattainable watch, you also see something else. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Earth is 12,742 kilometers in diameter, and if you turn the watch to face you and look at the time, you're looking at that titanium globe from about 10 times its diameter away. That means you're seeing the Earth from above the North Pole as it would look from a distance of about 153,000 kilometers, which is a bit shy of halfway to the moon. At such a distance, the Earth is both close enough to tug at your heartstrings – it's home, after all – and distant enough to seem an abstraction. The combination is a poignant one, and in combination with the tourbillon, and the hour and minute hands, you have dramatically different scales of spatial experience as well as three very different time scales, all in one place on your wrist. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I wore the Greubel Forsey GMT during Baselworld and it was, as you might expect, an attention-getting thing to have on at a watch trade show (and it provoked some goodnatured – I think – ribbing that maybe HODINKEE overpays its staff). But what I took away from the experience wasn't a sense of having lucked out in some horological lottery – it was an experience of almost philosophical tranquility; a feeling that, when I looked at the time, I wasn't so much seeing the time, as I was seeing a broader and more balanced perspective on how we perceive it. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["f89f440c-1857-4d27-8692-9c306e534d39"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Travel broadens, they say, and while there are any number of much more affordable multi-time zone watches out there, there are few that take you outside yourself quite like the Greubel Forsey GMT. Everything has to work together for something like this to really sit up and sing, but the level of attention to technical detail in the GMT is, paradoxically (or maybe necessarily?) what makes it work as a launchpad for fantasy and philosophical rumination as well. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>The Greubel Forsey GMT, as shown: Movement, 36.40mm x 9.80 mm; 72-hour power reserve, running in 50 jewels. Two coaxial mainspring barrels, running in series, fast rotating (one turn/3.2 hours) one with slipping bridle. Free sprung 10mm balance with timing screws; Phillips terminal curve; 21,600 vph. German/nickel silver/maillechort mainplates. Hours, minutes, GMT and world time indications. Case, 43.50 mm x 16.14mm in 950 platinum; water resistance 30 meters. $630,000. Read </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.greubelforsey.com/en/collection/gmt-1/" target=\"_blank\"><i>more about it at GreubelForsey.com.</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"941fe8e6-83e6-44ee-8dd2-9213ce1f489f","container_id":4403,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1491669761028-plj44yrd88bblnq7-e03562f9588ae1ffde28f1e961b55894/P3260181.jpg","width":5184,"height":3888,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2017-04-08T13:01:38.416-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:14:41.690-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1491669761028-plj44yrd88bblnq7-e03562f9588ae1ffde28f1e961b55894/P3260181.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/greubel-forsey-gmt-week-on-the-wrist","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Greubel Forsey GMT","tags":[]},{"id":4397,"slug":"panthere-de-cartier-stainless-steel-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Panthère de Cartier ","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-04-12T15:03:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-04-05T12:14:18.577-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:35.024-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>After complaining about how women’s watches are too small, I, Cara Barrett, have rediscovered my love for small watches. And it's all the Panthère de Cartier's fault.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":153577,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":"4ec296fe-b7bf-4554-9510-64ec60cc27a2","display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>I have a confession to make. After complaining about how women’s watches are too small and insisting that 36mm is the perfect size watch for any woman, I, Cara Barrett, have rediscovered my love for small watches. I know, I know, the hypocrisy of it all! But that’s how fashion and style work – ebbs and flows, and all that. Watches are no exception. As far as this new interest in smaller watches is concerned, there's one culprit to blame, and that's the new Panthère de Cartier.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["7b4246af-b36a-4aac-82bb-1f725f002397"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-panthere-de-cartier-collection-2017-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">Back in January, we saw Cartier re-release its iconic (and I really mean that) Panthère de Cartier</a>. This is a watch that was first released during the Must de Cartier days when it was marketed to a glamorous 1980s clientele, and it's been a classic every since. When I saw this new version, I recognized the watch immediately and I knew I had to get one on to my wrist for a review as quickly as possible.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A Little History"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Unlike the Tank, the Panthère isn't quite a household name. First introduced in 1983 during the heyday of opulence, the Panthère was praised for its sleek design, concealed clasp, and linked bracelet. It quickly became a huge hit among the who's who, men and women alike, with celebrities such as Pierce Brosnan and Keith Richards amongst the noted wearers (I will never not love the picture of Brosnan below). During a time when Studio 54 was the hottest nightclub in town and glamor was everything, it's no surprise that this watch was a hit. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In order to fully understand the impact of such a watch, it is important to know what it was up against at the time. After the death of Pierre Cartier in 1964, his two children and nephew moved to sell the family business. As a result, the company was split up into three semi-autonomous companies, Cartier New York, Cartier Paris, and Cartier London, with each producing different products at different times. This created an uneven brand strategy and allowed for each location to do its own thing. In one particular instance, Cartier New York started selling a <i>gold-plated steel</i> Tank watch for $150 in 1971. This was unheard of at the time, and greatly devalued the image of the brand in the eyes of many longtime patrons.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["557b1134-c69f-426b-972d-c4258bf06ecb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["2d3bf11c-bf3e-45e7-9f77-0f79d8cb1747"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>You have to remember that, at the time, Cartier was the <i>ultimate</i> luxury brand, and up until the 1970s it had been producing super exclusive, astronomically expensive, and very high-quality <i>objets – </i>think Mystery Clocks, personalized shutter watches, and ornate cigarette cases. So selling a gold-plated watch was sacrilege, even though the watch did quite well commercially. Despite marring the image, the idea of a less expensive watch later led to the Must de Cartier collection in 1977, after Cartier was bought by a group of investors. The collection was the brainchild of Joseph Kanoui (who gathered a group of investors to purchase Cartier, Paris), Alain Dominique Perrin, and Robert Hocq. The collection included a variety of shapes and was produced in gold-plated silver, allowing for a more reasonable price point. It was a way of re-branding and appealing to a broader audience (much like Montblanc and TAG Heuer creating smartwatches today), and when quartz movements came into play, it was all the more accessible.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9b6816e1-7df5-49b7-8076-5ab12807f04e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So what does all this have to do with the Panthère? To be clear, the Panthère was NOT part of the Must de Cartier collection, which is why it probably was such a hit with certain clientele. Additionally, there weren't that many fresh-to-market designs at the time, making the Panthère even more desirable. But what I think is most interesting about the timing of the 1983 launch of the Panthère is that even though it seems like a simple ladies’ watch, it was quite a big release for Cartier during a time of increasingly affordable timepieces and must have been a hero collection for a heritage maison trying to regain its footing in the global market. It was first launched in mini, small, medium, and large sizes, in two-tone and yellow-gold options (with a steel model introduced in 1991). The Panthère disappeared sometime in the early 2000s, leaving a hole in Cartier's lineup – until now.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The New Panthère"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Panthère is a ladies’ watch that appears to based on the original Santos, though Cartier doesn't communicate about the watch that way at all. It features a similar square case with a bezel secured by eight small screws. It has a classic flat white dial with elongated Roman numerals and the secret \"Cartier\" signature in the \"X\" at 10 o’clock. </p>\n\n<p>The design is bold, restrained, and utilitarian all at once – and without trying too hard. This is the secret to its success and why it appeals to so many. The watch today comes in small (22mm) and medium (27mm) sizes, in rose gold, yellow gold, steel, and two-tone. There are a few other versions, including a version with black lacquered links, that start to move into high jewelry territory as well. For this review, I am focusing on the medium size in stainless steel, which, to me, seems like the best daily-wear option.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f36b047f-2411-42f7-a33a-fedbd02df385"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The case may appear to be your average square case, but it is not. While square watches often find themselves only appealing to a niche audience, the Panthère finds more universal appeal due to the complexity and finesse of the design. In particular, the curved edges and that instantly-recognizable screw-down bezel really set the watch apart. </p>\n\n<p>The dial is enclosed in a square steel bezel with rounded corners, which, as I mentioned, is set with eight screws (this is mirrored on the caseback). One of the interesting things about the case design is the curved lugs and crown guards. Both are fluid in appearance and may feel insignificant, but they really add to the overall design of the piece. Without them, the watch wouldn't have the same sense of dynamism at all.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["32bb7b3b-22e3-475f-85ed-407394b06fd0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The bracelet is the second most important thing about this watch. When it was first released, people praised this particular bracelet for its versatility and sleek appearance. Unlike the Tank's bracelet, with its large brushed center links and industrial feel, the Panthère bracelet is polished with smaller brick-like links. They are laid out in a brick pattern and are attached to one another internally at the top and bottom of each link. Additionally, the links are curved, allowing for less weight and more movement, which makes the watch more comfortable on the wrist.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d9ca98a1-8391-4448-8eac-311e016773a6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For this watch, Cartier has used its standard quartz movement. This comes as no surprise to me, however, as the company likely wanted to keep costs down and to make the collection as accessible and commercially viable as possible. Remember, this isn't a niche product we're talking about. So in this instance, it does not bother me one bit that the watch is quartz – <i>haute horlogerie </i>is not what this watch is about, and I appreciate that it's not pretending otherwise.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On the Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What I love most about the Panthère is that it looks equally good on either a buttoned-up Junior Leaguer or a fashion-forward Voguette. It has a timeless quality that anyone can pull off and it comes in a variety of metals and sizes. You can really make this watch your own, despite how simple it might appear. </p>\n\n<p>My favorite is the medium-sized steel version, which measures 27mm on each side. While the rose gold version is also beautiful, the steel is definitely the most versatile and will likely be Cartier's most popular model. That it retails for $4,600, which is one of the lower price points at which you can get a Cartier timepiece.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["b73354aa-804a-40c3-bdbd-c021914e0d83"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>On the wrist, the watch feels great. It's that simple. It is sporty and refined, elegant and easy to wear. I could easily see myself wearing this to play tennis (because I am a prep at heart and that is what one does with a watch such as this) or to attend one of those black tie galas I don't get invited too (I’m looking at you, Met Gala). The more time I spent with the watch the easier it became to see why this was so popular when it first came out. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["26778eb4-7b20-49f5-ad42-ed7c0947ab5e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As I said earlier, the bracelet is 50% of the appeal of this watch. It looks great, sure, but it's also crucial in making this watch so easy to wear. Because of how the links are laid out and connected to one another, the bracelet hugs your wrist without any pinching and can easily be adjusted with the screw-set links near the clasp. The deployant clasp is concealed, just like on the original, and it is easy to unclip with one hand. The only gripe I have is that the bracelet end-links connect to the case, rather than to the ends of the lugs – this can allow for some weird overhang, with the lugs sticking out a tiny bit, but it's not the end of the world. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["fe9896bf-3a1c-4700-a2a1-66eb948bf805"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So what other watches are there that can compete with the Panthère de Cartier in stainless steel? A few. The most obvious being the Cartier Tank Francaise.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["29e5ce46-ab85-4540-874e-a9b23da4b3ce"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><br></p>\n\n<p>The Tank Francaise is a similar watch in the sense that it is a square(ish) steel watch with a bracelet from Cartier. And while the aesthetic may be totally different to the trained eye (brushed finish, heavier bracelet, rectangular case, etc.), it's clearly in the same family. However, these watches are being sold to people mostly on aesthetic grounds, and in that regard, there are plenty of cases for someone definitively wanting one or the other. On the wrist, the Tank and the Panthère look totally different, with the latter being <i>much</i> more feminine. It is worth noting that the medium-sized steel Tank costs $3,750, while the comparable Panthère costs $4,600. So at the end of the day, this one really just comes down to personal style (and $850). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b3ca87c6-cf28-4918-a33e-6d2bdd57a7e4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><br></p>\n\n<p>Another watch on the market that could give the Panthère a run for its money is the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-oyster-perpetual-36mm/" target=\"_blank\">Rolex Oyster Perpetual in 36mm</a>. The Oyster Perpetual is far sportier than the Panthère and costs more, at <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rolex.com/watches/oyster-perpetual/m116000-0010.html/" target=\"_blank\">$5,400</a>, but it can still easily fill thae role of a steel everyday watch on a bracelet, albeit in a different way. This watch also brings into play an automatic movement and the Rolex name, both of which can obviously be game-changers for certain customers.</p>\n\n<p><br></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ffd560ba-f12b-4415-8796-18503d721d9d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A better comparison might be <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rolex.com/watches/datejust/m279160-0014.html/" target=\"_blank\">the new 28mm Lady-Datejust in steel</a>, which was re-introduced this year at Baselworld in three new versions. The steel version with a pink dial and Roman numerals might get closer to the delicate femininity of the Panthère, though, again, this is a far cry from Cartier's particular aesthetic. Retailing for $6,300, it's also in a higher price bracket. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If these comparisons seem a little unusual and it doesn't quite feel like anything is a direct competitor, that's because nothing really is. The steel Panthère has all of that great Cartier style that you can't really find anywhere else – and, if we're being honest, most people who want a Cartier watch just want a Cartier watch. It's the style, the brand, and the history they're buying, so likely nothing else will quite do.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["d4e2510d-c85a-4cec-94fa-8c96b75c783a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of the main things to reflect on is the fact that the Panthère de Cartier in 1983 was a high-luxury timepiece in comparison to the rest of the market at that time. Fast forward to today, and the same exact watch has become almost mainstream in the same industry. Furthermore, what the Panthère de Cartier does best is appeal to a specific group of buyers. These buyers aren't watch nerds and they aren't worried high-end movements. They might not even be interested in most of the usual-suspect ladies' watches. I think this is why I was so surprised that I enjoyed wearing it so much. After years of complaining about a lack of mechanical watches for women, I found myself back at the source with a 27mm quartz ladies' watch and I loved it. </p>\n\n<p>I think the major takeaway here is that the Panthère de Cartier re-affirms that good design and wearability are more than half the battle. This is something that Cartier understands and applies to all its products. It's a strategy that clearly works. I have always been a huge fan of Cartier and the Panthère de Cartier further solidifies that. And I am sure I am not the only one.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For more information on the Panthère de Cartier, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.cartier.com//" target=\"_blank\">visit Cartier online</a>.</p>\n\n<p><i>Pictured: Medium Rose Gold, $21,200; Small Two-Tone Steel and Yellow Gold, $7,350; Medium Steel, $4,600.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>Visit Hodinkee affiliate Crown & Caliber to shop pre-owned <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.crownandcaliber.com/collections/cartier-watches?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=disclosure-box\%22 target=\"_blank\">Cartier</a> models</p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"af8466aa-9864-44ec-9c3f-c062f054a1f1","container_id":4397,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1491833395387-fln1syj5lg-a58982b72ee8cb3fd4e535c9f1b06b15/20017912_copy.jpg","width":2000,"height":1333,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2017-04-05T12:14:18.680-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:15:01.911-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1491833395387-fln1syj5lg-a58982b72ee8cb3fd4e535c9f1b06b15/20017912_copy.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/panthere-de-cartier-stainless-steel-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Panthère de Cartier ","tags":[]},{"id":4144,"slug":"jaeger-lecoultre-master-control-date-sector-dial-a-week-on-the-wrist","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date With Sector Dial","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-03-02T13:58:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2017-02-28T17:29:16.651-05:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:35.180-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>One of the most-talked-about watches of the 2017 SIHH, the new Master Control Date adds a sector dial and tons of charm to an iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre archetype.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106667536001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":225875,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":"e8c68eac-ca4b-42bd-a295-9b0f131aa81f","display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>The annual Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) is, as the name would suggest, a show predominantly made up of watchmakers creating watches that represent the upper echelons of watchmaking. Six-figure price tags are a dime a dozen on the show floor. When I first saw the new Master Control Date with a sector dial at Jaeger-LeCoultre's booth, I knew <i>I</i> wanted to get some time with it on my wrist, but when every conversation I had with collectors, journalists, and other industry friends kept coming back to a $5,700 time-and-date watch, I knew we had something special on our hands.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-tourbillon-extra-thin-openworked-steel-3/" target=\"_blank\">Openworked tourbillons</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-zeitwerk-decimal-strike-hands-on/" target=\"_blank\">decimal striking watches</a> are great, sure, but if we're being honest, they're show pieces more than anything else. Very few will ever be made, and very few will ever actually be worn out-and-about. I'm not saying I don't like these kinds of watches – I find them endlessly fascinating and lust-worthy – just that I find watches like this Jaeger-LeCoultre far more compelling in the end. It's a simple watch that offers real watchmaking inside, has a distinctive design, and comes in at a price that makes it affordable to a relatively large swathe of the watch-loving population.</p>\n\n<p>Let's look at how the new sector dial Master Control Date came about and then dig into the details of the watch itself.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Of Masters And Sectors"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["e3099d17-74ef-4473-aad8-068d7460f752"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Master Control collection made its debut for Jaeger-LeCoultre back in 1992. The idea was to create a line of watches that represented the values of pure, classic watchmaking, with a focus on simple aesthetics, functionality, understated technology, and long-term performance. Along with the initial collection of watches, Jaeger-LeCoultre started its \"1,000 Hours Control\" quality check program, which subjects finished watches to a six-week program of tests. This includes impacts, temperature changes, movement through six positions, water resistance, and more – it's all pretty standard stuff now (though six weeks is <i>a lot</i> of time for something like this), but in 1992 this was basically unheard of.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you're paying attention to the dates, a 1992 release would make 2017 the 25th anniversary of the Master Control collection. The watch we have here is actually part of a trio that includes the three core complications that have been in the Master Control collection since the beginning: time and date, chronograph, and travel time. These aren't really being labeled as a 25th anniversary collection, nor are they being marketed as such, but that's essentially what these watches are and they're only going to be produced for this one anniversary year. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["62d20a84-fd43-41a4-9722-2308a07d7bdb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I'm not going to go too in-depth on the other two watches in this collection, but the chronograph is still worth a closer look. While the time-and-date watch is the one that drew me in immediately, I know quite a few people who were over the moon about the chronograph. It's a stainless steel chronograph with a two-tone sector dial for $8,000 – to get that in a vintage watch you'd likely be paying 10x, or even more. It's worth noting that this model is 40mm, so not small, and it has a closed caseback, despite the automatic Jaeger movement inside. The lack of date and the bright blue accents really set this watch apart and make it awesome.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["4235a9d1-a95b-4731-a6da-fd00bed19e4c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The last watch is the Geographic, which, I hate to say, just doesn't do it for me. I like the Geographic in general (I'm a huge fan of travel watches), and I even like the 3-9-12 dial layout. But, there's just too much going on here for a sector dial. You don't get to enjoy the dial design because of all the information packed in.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Speaking of which, it's probably worth defining here what exactly a sector dial is and where it comes from. Loosely speaking, a sector dial is defined by and takes its name from the so-called \"sector,\" which is the central ring on the dial with radiating markers at the hours. In addition to that, sector dials can have other nested registers marking out various increments of time, either outside the sector or at the dial's edge. They're often two-tone, with the coloration inside the sector and outside the sector differing slightly.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6469d06d-1e65-44dc-aeec-17d94580055c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The history of these dials is a little hazy, and most of the big watchmakers produced them at one time or another (not a surprise, since most brands were using the same dial manufacturers). They originate sometime in the late 1920s or early 1930s and can be traced to two applications – officers watches for the military and scientific watches for laboratory use. It's unclear which came first, but the style flourished in the '30s and '40s, for both pocket watches and wristwatches, with Patek Philippe, Omega, and IWC making some of the most lauded examples. Sometime in the late '40s or early '50s the popularity of sector dials began to wane before almost completely disappearing from catalogs.</p>\n\n<p>However, recently, the style has become popular again and watchmakers are creating new takes on the vintage style. Whether it has anything to do with the mania for mid-century everything that's cropped up over the last half-decade or not is another question for another time, but there's no doubt that sector dials are hot right now. And this watch might be one of the hottest examples.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Master Control Date"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["64497167-e52a-47bd-bee1-72e7107f12af"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Master Control Date is the foundation of the Master Control collection. It's a simple watch with three central hands and a date window at three o'clock. Here the stainless steel case is 39mm across and just 8.5mm thick. This doesn't make it an \"ultra-thin,\" strictly speaking, but the watch does feel very slim in comparison to most other watches being made today. The tops of the lugs and the curved bezel are polished, but the sides of the case are brushed, giving it a crisp edge and some added contrast.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["790fe756-64ed-42fa-802a-2adb7e361c0a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What really makes this watch special though is the dial. The sector dial is two-tone, with an opaline finish in the center and a satin-brushed finish around the outer section. Both are technically silver in color, but in more direct light the center looks almost cream colored while the outside resembles the brushed steel of the case. Most of the markings, including the sector and the numerals, are black, with bright blue accents at the five-minute marks and on the date disc. </p>\n\n<p>There are two details have have drawn criticism from others, and, in both cases, I'm actually on the side of the watch. The first, if you haven't guessed already, is the date window. Purists be damned, I think it makes this a better watch for daily wear (and general industry sales figures would indicate that most watch buyers agree with me). I understand wanting a pure, date-less dial, and I certainly wouldn't argue with it that way, but I think Jaeger-LeCoultre has done a nice job integrating it into the design instead of just cutting a hole in an already configured dial.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["92d180f0-04b9-473d-a47c-432312344f0d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Second is the blued steel hand set. The seconds hand is slim and simple, but the hour and minute hands have an open syringe shape. They do resemble vintage hands with the lume missing – there's no denying that – but I think they're the right choice here. If they were plain, slim hands, they'd feel dull and be hard to read; if they were filled with lume, they would be too big and dominate the overall design. Here they're broad, but light. They tell the time, but they let you admire the dial below. They're unconventional, sure, but they're also great.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f6c2d0d2-a01e-415d-b1c8-611b49a663fd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Of course, since this is a Master Control watch, there's an in-house Jaeger-LeCoultre movement inside. The JLC caliber 899/1 is an automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve. It's just 3.3mm thick and has 219 parts total, with a balance beating at 4 Hz. It strikes a nice balance between being beautiful and being utilitarian. The solid pink gold rotor is a great example of this, and finishing throughout is very nice. No crazy bevels or anything like that, but a seriously nice movement for a watch in this price range. In fact, it'd be tough to find a better one.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["83b01e27-a421-4488-9f25-e0224f55d03b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["86605c9b-ad92-4192-8515-8a2a38e41dbe"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This watch looks great in a case or on a table, but it's when you put the thing on that it really starts to sing. The case size is just fantastic, and you really start to appreciate that 8.5mm height after wearing it for a bit. The watch almost seems to disappear on the wrist when you're typing at your desk or just walking around the city. Comfort is something that doesn't get talked about enough when evaluating watches, and this is one seriously comfortable watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["4e625b5f-168b-47bc-8633-609cecdfb0a9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But before I could really start enjoying this watch, I had to do one thing: change the strap. Packaged with the Master Control Date is a dark blue alligator strap with some padding up top and matching blue stitching. It closes with a simple pin buckle (major bonus points for not including a deployant here). However, I found the strap to be extremely stiff and uncomfortable, with the padding unnecessary and wonky. I'm sure it would soften up a bit after some wear, but the quality didn't seem to match that of the watch itself. Easy fix though. I threw the watch on a textured grey calf leather strap (from <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/straps/products/textured-light-grey-calfskin-watch-strap/" target=\"_blank\">the HODINKEE Shop</a>, if you'll allow an unintentional but shameless plug) and it immediately felt right at home.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ffdde518-3a04-4693-8045-c316d2f146af"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Most of my friends are pretty used to seeing me show up places with some new watch on my wrist that I'm obliged to wear for a review (tough life, I know). Usually they don't even take notice anymore, and very rarely do they comment on the watches. This watch though got tons of attention. For something relatively understated and small, the Master Control Date is extremely striking and, even to the uninitiated, it looks like something special. I even had non-watch friends asking to try it on, which <i>never</i> happens.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["39424e4c-c12f-402e-8c49-dc689a0b985d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you're a longtime HODINKEE reader, it probably comes as no surprise that I really dig this watch. As someone not-so-mildly obsessed with things like classic Richard Neutra buildings and old Leica cameras, a modestly-sized watch with a clean, minimalist dial inspired by mid-century functionalism is right in my wheelhouse. But, even if you can't pick a Case Study House out of a lineup, the Master Control Date's design should still be appealing. It's easy to read, comfortable on the wrist, and the subtle contrasts on the dial make it something you can look at repeatedly, discovering something new each time.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And then there's the price. At $5,700, this watch presents better value than any other watch I saw at the SIHH. When I first saw the watch in a vitrine, I honestly thought the price would be somewhere around the $8,000 mark. When I was told $5,700, I thought there might be a mistake. Sure, $5,700 is still a serious amount of money (even when we're talking about watches), but for what you get here, it's much more than a fair ask.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f581f4ec-14e9-48f0-9889-7e11f2bd6ad6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When looking at what other watches might compete with the sector dial Master Control Date, the obvious choice is...the Master Control Date. There are a few versions of the watch in <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/us/en/watches/master.html?JLCclick=MyJLCSubHome\%22 target=\"_blank\">JLC's current catalog</a>. Strangely, they're all actually more expensive than the version with the sector dial, at $6,350. Technically the watches are the same, so maybe this is a by-product of price increases over the years or something similar. To me, the main appeal of the new Master Control Date is that sector dial, but I guess if you like everything else but want a more classic dress watch this could be one way to go.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["899e6afc-7ca0-40e3-8306-dee54294ce64"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But what if you're definitely looking for a time-only watch with a sector dial? The first watches that come to mind are <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/habring2-erwin-scientific-dial/" target=\"_blank\">the new scientific dial Erwin and Felix</a> from Habring². They're very similar, with two-tone dials and blue accents, with the former having a jumping seconds complication too. Priced at $5,900 (the Erwin) and $4,900 (the Felix), these watches fall squarely in the same range as the Master Control Date. Personally, I like the dial on the Jaeger a lot more, but you do get something different mechanically from Habring², and, in the case of the Erwin, a jumping seconds complication. What really makes the case for these watches are that they're really your only options in the same price range with sector dials.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["488eabac-1403-4e9d-8f6a-9fd16187e944"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now, if you're willing to up your budget, that's when you start to get more options. But I'm not talking about an extra $1,000 or $2,000. The <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.patek.com/en/mens-watches/calatrava/5296G-001/" target=\"_blank\">Patek Philippe ref. 5296G</a> with a sector dial will set you back $26,990. It's made of white gold, it has a more complex sector dial, and it's got an automatic Patek movement inside – it's sort of a strictly upgraded version of the Master Control Date we have here. However, the two aren't really competitive in my opinion – most people aren't comparison shopping one watch against another watch that costs nearly five times as much. Or, rather, they shouldn't be.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["04fe116e-c2d8-48ee-830f-a017fe7ff96d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Then there's your last major option: vintage. In the 1930s and '40s (and, sure, a little before and after), tons of brands, from the high end to the low end, were making sector dial watches. At the higher end, things can get really crazy, like with the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/that-insane-patek-530-sector-dial-coming-up-at-christies-geneva/" target=\"_blank\">Patek Philippe ref. 530 chronograph</a> seen above, which fetched $1,237,777 at Christie's in May 2016. But, you can also find sector dial watches from the likes of Omega, IWC, Longines, Eberhard, and others, for much more reasonable prices. For something good, in a 35-38mm size, in steel, you're still looking at more than $5,900, but you could still pick something up for under $10,000 in today's market.</p>\n\n<p>Do be wary of re-dialed vintage watches with sector dials. Especially right now, while the style is hot, there are shady characters out there trying to turn something basic into something special. In many cases, even if the dial is original, it's been retouched to make the finer markings really pop and look incredible.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a2f017cd-11e0-4c6e-9c88-ce34cf39be9b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I probably don't have to tell you by now that I really like this watch. And I mean <i>really</i>. If you had told me going into SIHH less than two months ago that my hands-down favorite watch would be a sub-$10,000 watch with three hands, I'd likely have assumed you'd never heard of the SIHH before. But here we are and here I am wishing I still had this watch on my wrist.</p>\n\n<p>The new Master Control Date offers something truly unique in the market today. It's a reasonably-sized, reasonably-priced watch with a distinct design sensibility, a technically-sound movement, and a nod to coveted vintage watches, all while being extremely contemporary and wearable. It's a watch that a lot of people could (and likely will) wear everyday and enjoy for a very long time. And, to me, those are the best kinds of watches. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date with sector dial is priced at $5,700. It is not a limited edition, but will only be produced for one year to celebrate the collection's 25th anniversary. All three new sector dial models should be arriving in boutiques beginning this summer.</p>\n\n<p>For more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/us/en/watches/master/master-control-date/1548530.html/" target=\"_blank\">visit Jaeger-LeCoultre online</a>.</p>\n\n<p><i>Video/Photos: Greyson Korhonen</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>Visit Hodinkee affiliate Crown & Caliber to shop pre-owned <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.crownandcaliber.com/collections/jaeger-lecoultre-watches?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=disclosure-box\%22 target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Jaeger-LeCoultre</a> models</p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"fdd426b6-6e36-4989-ba08-c438bb1b9175","container_id":4144,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1488320918158-t4qvlcgladcfmpta-af533f7bef8e2acdb073b650fffc5bbc/20017189_copy.jpg","width":2000,"height":1333,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":"<p></p>","alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-03-02T13:58:56.101-05:00","updated_at":"2017-03-02T13:58:56.101-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1488320918158-t4qvlcgladcfmpta-af533f7bef8e2acdb073b650fffc5bbc/20017189_copy.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-master-control-date-sector-dial-a-week-on-the-wrist","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date With Sector Dial","tags":[]},{"id":4090,"slug":"fp-journe-octa-quantieme-perpetuel-week-on-the-wrist","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The F.P. Journe Octa Quantième Perpétuel","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-02-22T11:09:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2017-02-15T08:27:12.148-05:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:35.597-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>After a collector friend called the Octa Quantième Perpétuel \"the biggest miss in horological journalism in recent years,\" we knew it was time to take a closer look at this overlooked F.P. Journe.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1487165222659-npje2hbqdsuioj1p-2643b9886befb4a4f84bc085f8f524e1/IMG_5502.JPG","hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":54311,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":"90df1729-e896-427c-95a5-465c6e44053e","display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>Not very long ago, a collector friend called the Octa Quantième Perpétuel \"the biggest miss in horological journalism in recent years.\" Ouch. He claimed the watch had received very little attention from the mainstream watch media. And he wasn’t wrong. This is a Francois-Paul Journe perpetual calendar wristwatch after all, and it’s the first digital perpetual calendar with instantaneous jumping day, date, and month made by anyone. I decided it was time to right this wrong. There are currently four different Octa QP models, and I was lucky enough to get my hands on the 40mm model in red gold with a red gold dial, my favorite of the four configurations (there are platinum cases and 42mm versions too). It's a pretty good way to start on the right footing.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["56335455-18a7-45bf-81c3-d9fe23772d8a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>To get a sense of the obsessiveness encapsulated in Journe’s new perpetual calendar right off the bat, there's one thing you need to know. The calendar indications (the large date, day, and month) all change in an instant, and the only way you can capture their jump is if you use an extremely high-speed camera. That’s how Journe checked their speed and synchronization during the development phase, and if you visit the manufacture in Geneva, you’ll find that very camera sitting inside the master's office.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"First Impressions"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["07248fa2-8353-4aec-916b-1aedfe77752c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The first thing you’ll notice about this perpetual calendar is that it has a relatively streamlined dial. Traditional perpetual calendars use multiple sub-dials to display the day, date, and month, and many of them even have a moonphase indication too. That’s the way it’s been since the very first perpetual calendar wristwatch, and it’s a familiar image in the minds of collectors. Information overload is certainly part of the appeal of owning a perpetual calendar, but so many times watches that go that route trade in legibility for busy dials. The funny thing about watches with complications is that they are only as good as their most basic function, which is to tell the time in a clear and legible manner. That’s the information the wearer is after more often than not. And if the watch fails at this level, it fails completely. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Octa QP is a perpetual calendar that behaves more like a time-only watch. What I mean by that is that the calendar functions are secondary to the hour and minute hands. The latter are what you will see first when you look at the dial of the Octa QP, and right away they direct your gaze toward the chapter ring, away from the cluster of indicators, and directly towards the hour markers.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"full-width","quote":"<p>The Octa Quantième Perpétuel is the type of watch you say to yourself you'd wear every day if you had one, but if you did, you would end up wearing it only occasionally, mostly in the evenings, since this one really can't afford too many careless knocks.<br></p>","source":"Arthur Touchot"},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Then, from left to right, you’ll find the power reserve in a well-defined space on the left-hand side of the inner dial, and last, but certainly not least, the calendar indications, each one framed by its own dedicated aperture window, and the leap year indication, which is placed at the very center of the watch, around the pinhole for the hands – a tiny hand points toward the red \"L\" during a leap year.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["13d7d2c1-09f4-48f6-9fef-21b3a46ec27c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It’s an incredibly well-thought-out dial – perhaps the best that F.P. Journe has made yet, in my opinion. The calendar is condensed to show only the information that is relevant on any given day. Unnecessary information is not shown, so that only what is important is delivered to the owner of the watch in a quick and clear manner.</p>\n\n<p>A prime example of this is the leap year. The information it provides is of little importance – it changes only once a year – and yet many QPs display it quite prominently. Others choose to hide it completely, by placing it at the back. But Journe’s solution shows a little more ingenuity and, dare I say, a little cheekiness on the watchmaker’s part.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["7996a878-4b4e-4323-8261-4652ce06beee"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The most satisfying aspect of the dial though is its symmetry – and who would have thought that we’d be saying that about an F.P. Journe? The French watchmaker is a serial offender when it comes to making asymmetrical dials. It’s a signature, of sorts. Sure, the power reserve is off to the left on this watch, but the hands are still centrally placed and the windows are centrally aligned. It still has that definitively Journe look, but in a way that will satisfy those craving balance.</p>\n\n<p>It’s a move that certainly seems necessary for a perpetual calendar too. As I've previously mentioned, there’s a lot of information for the wearer to digest here, and an off-balance layout would only add confusion to the dial. In fact, that’s precisely how F.P. Journe packaged his first perpetual calendar, the Octa Perpétuelle, and the results weren't so good.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist "},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["92a34d63-a33c-448a-88c1-7b9467c80099"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Quite often when I put a watch on the wrist, I genuinely do not know if it will wear comfortably. There are a few exceptions of course, one of them being anything made by F.P. Journe. But there are still things to look out for, particularly when trying on a perpetual calendar. Because the complication often requires that several hundred components fit into a tight space, quite a few watchmakers are forced to stack them and add a couple of millimeters in height in order to make a watch that is not too large. However, the Octa QP is only 10.8mm thick, and that’s despite having a large balance wheel, not to mention four discs for the calendar indications.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f6dbb43f-288d-45ef-836a-358cd49243a6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It’s a matter of personal taste, but I found the more compact size suits the Octa QP a little better – but maybe that’s just me holding on to the era of smaller F.P. Journe cases. The Octa QP was one of the first standard F.P Journe watches to break into 42mm territory. For what it’s worth, I spoke to a few owners of the 42mm Octa QP, and all of them said they picked the larger size not because of the size of their wrist but because they felt it was better proportioned.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Octa Quantième Perpétuel is the type of watch you say to yourself you'd wear every day if you had one, but if you did, you would end up wearing it only occasionally, mostly in the evenings, since this one really can't afford too many careless knocks. However, this is where the movement’s performance comes in, <i>big time</i>. An inherent weaknesses of any perpetual calendar is that it’s instantly noticeable when you’ve left the power reserve run out for too long, and it’s often quite complicated to re-adjust the calendar indications before wearing it again. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ed5fcf3a-c5f4-4ead-8182-08f023b7a14d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Because all corrections can be made via the crown, it’s much less of a pain with the Octa QP, but chances are you won’t even have to experience that because of the movement’s 120-hour power reserve. That’s a five-day insurance policy for the wearer, guaranteeing the watch will continue running smoothly as long as you wear it a few times per week. If, however, you did let it run down, F.P. Journe has installed a rapid month corrector underneath the lug at one o'clock, so you won't have to go through the date indication to catch up on the calendar.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5c2fed63-5101-4ba7-9a97-30c12fc6eefd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Octa QP is powered by a chronometer-certified movement, and like the precision chronometers the company makes, it is manufactured in red gold – all of it, from the mainplate to the bridges. Journe chose caliber FPJ 1300-3, an automatic movement that supports several complications in the Octa line, as the basis for his second perpetual calendar. A huge advantage of the caliber is that the dimensions stay the same (30.8mm x 5.8mm), no matter what is added to it. </p>\n\n<p>This movement features a large balance – atypical for watches that have long power reserves – which is free-sprung and vibrates at 21,600 vph. The movement is wound by a beautifully decorated 22k gold rotor placed on a ball bearing system to maximize the efficiency of even the smallest movements of the wrist. It’s a stunning sight underneath the sapphire caseback, and its another way Journe watches distinguish themselves from the competition. Speaking of which...</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["049b6e39-e00e-432f-abf9-1dc6c4f78eb9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ab294e48-a575-4a56-8285-cf8484a03ad2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In red gold, the QP retails for $67,800 (40 mm) or $69,500 (42 mm), while in platinum it will set you back either $71,700 (40 mm) or $73,400 (42 mm). So, what else can you buy for approximately $70,000? Well, certainly not another instantaneous perpetual calendar, and that’s why it’s so difficult to compare the Octa QP to the rest of the field. But here's our best shot. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["c4677e72-905f-4a16-b118-60260abdf757"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If legibility is strictly what you’re after, the closest thing to the Octa QP is the H. Moser <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-h-moser-endeavour-perpetual-calendar-review/" target=\"_blank\">Endeavour Perpetual Calendar</a>. This one's another perpetual calendar concerned primarily with being minimalist, and in rose gold it retails for $60,000, which is slightly less than Journe's model. It's a little trickier to read – the indexes around the dial work as both the hour markers and the month indication and it takes a little mental agility to read – and crucially, it does not display the day of the week. But the point is once again to streamline the dial. However, and I don't mean to slight Moser, but I don't think these two are comparable because independents tend to attract clients who buy into their brand, and Moser and Journe are two very different brands. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["700233f1-f5b7-408a-b508-d886cf7e5dd9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>More traditional rivals may offer more competition. Audemars Piguet, Lange and Patek Phillipe all have perpetual calendar roughly in the same price range. However, the 41mm <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-audemars-piguet-perpetual-calendar-26574-in-yellow-gold/" target=\"_blank\">Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar</a>, the 38.5 mm <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-a-lange-sohne-langematik-perpetual/" target=\"_blank\">Langematik Perpetual</a> and the 39.5mm <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-5327-a-brand-new-perpetual-calendar-model/" target=\"_blank\">Ref. 5327R</a> display their calendar indications in a much more traditional layout, with multiple subdials and moonphase indicators. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["05d7e034-a063-4957-94b5-49f2bc7edbe0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Lange and Patek watches are also both more expensive than the Octa QP, and that makes Journe’s perpetual calendar his finest and most serious challenge of the current watch establishment. It's certainly the most inventive. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I mentioned earlier that one of the pleasures of owning and wearing a perpetual calendar is the overwhelming display of information on a single dial. Which is why I’m surprised to say I found this perpetual calendar even more enjoyable to wear in the long term than most classic perpetual calendars. </p>\n\n<p>In terms of design, the Octa QP introduces only a relatively minor modification to the traditional perpetual calendar display. Some of the earliest perpetual calendar wristwatches displayed the day and month through apertures, and the digitization of the date is simply the latest evolution. It's not totally unexpected that Journe would be the first to display all of the calendar indications digitally either, since the double date structure is one of his specialities.</p>\n\n<p><br></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["f6169043-04c9-4ab9-b5a8-2d8cc23861fa"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The all-digital display has left us with a watch that looks significantly less like a perpetual calendar. Instead of dominating the dial, the calendar indications fade into the background, to the benefit of the time display, and, ultimately, to the benefit of the owner of the watch as well.</p>\n\n<p>After spending a week with the Octa Quantième Perpetual, I find myself thinking of it not as a perpetual calendar that happens to be made by F.P. Journe, but, rather, as an F.P. Journe that happens to display a whole lot more than any of the French watchmaker’s other creations. It’s a very mature watch from Journe, for his most mature clients. And perhaps that’s why it took one of them to convince me to pay attention to this watch in the first place.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.fpjourne.com//" target=\"_blank\">visit F.P. Journe online</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"23962421-766f-4185-b676-732bedfe743e","container_id":4090,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1487165222659-npje2hbqdsuioj1p-2643b9886befb4a4f84bc085f8f524e1/IMG_5502.JPG","width":2000,"height":1333,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":"<p></p>","alt_text":"","created_at":"2017-02-23T01:31:28.498-05:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:15:31.784-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1487165222659-npje2hbqdsuioj1p-2643b9886befb4a4f84bc085f8f524e1/IMG_5502.JPG?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/fp-journe-octa-quantieme-perpetuel-week-on-the-wrist","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The F.P. Journe Octa Quantième Perpétuel","tags":[]}],"currentArticleId":7603}">
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